Misfire Stall Or No Start? How To Check Your Distributor Cap For Common Problems.
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
- Misfire Stall Or No Start? How To Check Your Distributor Cap For Common Problems.
In this video I have a 1986 Ford F250 with a 5.0L V8. Customer complaint was rough running, stalling, and occasional back firing. I show you what you should check for first if you have a distributor style ignition system. It is an easy DIY that requires no special tools. What should you check first? Watch and find out.
If you are unsure of what you are trying to diagnose or repair, please contact a qualified mechanic. There is nothing wrong with asking for help.
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Due to the factors beyond the control of “Shaners Mechanic Life,” I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. “Shaners Mechanic Life” assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. “Shaners Mechanic Life” recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and/or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to the factors beyond the control of “Shaners Mechanic Life,” no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, property damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not "Shaners Mechanic Life."
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![1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV , No Spark [Good Ignition Coil, Module and Distributor Pick-up]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6UPe5f1s2ak/mqdefault.jpg)
Mechanically inclined but not a mechanic, first time this was really explained how it works, appreciate you bro, good stuff.
Thanks for the great comment. Glad you liked the video.
You have answered my questions. Very helpful. Thanks
Yup, I had a no start. Pulled a plug wire, plugged in a new one grounding it to the exhaust manifold and cranked it, I had spark. Sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body and cranked, no fire,,,,what? Got spark (so I thought) and spark juice. Ran perfect the day before. Checked all the fuses and relays, good. Checked fuel pressure and pump, good. Pulled cap off and center pin was broke off,,,,dang, never seen that before. How did I see spark when I plugged in a skate plug,,,,baffling!!!! New cap and smooth as silk again.
Hey sounds like you're having the same problem I'm having today June 2023.. I tell you what man it sucks just wanted to tell you I got my F-150 1995 and I have replaced the distributor cap and rotary button as well... still having a problem with it not cranking you need to do like I have done and check the ignition coil on top engine to see if you're getting spark? If that's good and you're still not getting spark check your ignition coil modular over there on the driver side fender.. by your brake booster and master cylinder.. it costed me $66 the other day at auto zone.. just wanted to share that information with you since you're having about the same problem I am maybe they'll help you man
liked
No spark on my gmc sierra. Aparently the ICM is infamous. Today im replacing the ignition control module, ignition coil and distributor cap and rotor button. Hopefully its one of those. I really dont want to learn how to change the entire distributor but ive got to get it back up for work on monday lol@@jessicasteffey
Helped tremendously on problem with sons chevy truck ,mechanic did a " tune up 1 week ago supposedly truck still cutting out 528$ later
Thank you brother for posting this right here
Thank you for this very informative and helpful video especially for weekend mechanics like myself just trying to save $ and not get ripped off by dishonest shops.
Glad you found my video helpful. I enjoy sharing info that helps people. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Exceptionally well done
Very informative appreciate the love of your work.
Thank you! I enjoy troubleshooting, repairing and sharing information I have learned.
Thanks for the informative video
straightforward and educational for the everyday driver. thanks!!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the great comment.
as i am technically inclined, thank you, i think i might be able to do this myself with your video!!!!
You can do it!
Thanks for the video man got right to it and didn’t keep me waiting
Thanks for the great comment. I like to get as much info as possible into a reasonable length video. What kinds of videos do you think youtube needs more of?
I have a 1979 Lincoln Mark V that is having firing problems. Thanks for explaining how it works and how to replace an old distributor. I'll be back on the road again very soon!
Have you fixed your Lincoln? What ended up being the issue? Let me know. Hopefully it was something inexpensive.
Beautiful job brotha man. I just did a tune up and decided I wanted to wash my 1977 Chevy 350 motor and after I did I was getting a misfire. Now I know what to check ✔️. Awesome 👌
Thanks for the great comment. 👍 Glad I could help. I remember 4x4ing with a friend and he went through a big puddle fast, then the truck shut off. When it was engines I always cover distributor with a grocery bag.
@Shaners Mechanic Life funny thing is it ended up being a bad spark plug out of the box. But I still cleaned everything and checked everything. Thanks to your video. :)
Very helpful thank you
Thank you my friend. I have searched and searched if the rotor is ok if it's got a little play in it, and mine has a screw so no chance in it coming off. Now when I say play I mean almost to the point you can't turn it, but I saw yours move about how much mine does when you touched it. God bless you and thank you for a very informative video❤️🙏
Glad you liked my video and it was helpful for you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very informational I clean mind like you describe and I me back on the rd. Planned changeing cap and roter thanks.
Glad it worked out for you. Saves your car from being out of commission while you wait for parts. Thanks for watching and commenting.
That was very helpful!! Thanks
Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching. Glad it was helpful. Was your problem just moisture or corrosion?
Very good video I like the way you present your self
Thank you so much. Glad you enjoyed it.
yessir.. another topic for the distributer... moisture ! and I live in Houston, where its 100% most of the time. again thank you
Your welcome and thank you for your comment. It's surprising how much grief a little moisture can cause. Thanks for watching.
Good learning video, amazing mechanic.
Thanks for the great comment. I love seeing my videos helping people.
Got anything on 06 silverado lu3 v6. P.s. thought I was the last Shaner good to see there's more of us out there
Awesome video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and the great comment.
Thanks for the information
Your welcome. Thanks for watching.
Very clear good advice
Glad it was helpful. Sometimes new parts are not the answer. All things need sometimes is some maintenance or a good cleaning. Thanks for watching.
Thanks very informative
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
really good sir thank u I own a 2978 f150 with only 92,450 original miles barn kept not drove for 15 yrs
Your welcome. I learned to drive in a 1978 f250. Good memories.
Very helpful 🤘🏼
Glad you found it helpful. Sometimes it's not necessary to replace a part. It might just need a little maintenance. Not many people have vehicles with distributors anymore. What do you drive?
Great job
Thank you, glad you liked it.
Thank you very nice video 😊
Your welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate your positive feedback.
Great video, yo. Props.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Good job
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Thanks man. You sure saved me a lot of time.
Your welcome. I'm glad my video was helpful to you.
Thanks dude
No problem. Thanks for watching!
Love it
I have a similar issue with my 95 SL500. I doubt the caps/rotors have been changed since the 00’s. When I checked them, there was all sorts of carbon tracking, corrosion and gouging on the contacts as well as condensation. Ended up sanding each contact a little (I wasn’t too thorough) and it fixed the misfire for about 2 minutes. Currently waiting on all of my parts to get here; hopefully that’s the issue.
Let me know how it works out for you. I always start with maintenance items when dealing with driveability issues.
Good explanation. But how do you align the distributor rotor to position #1 so that car can start easily
Thank U..
You're most welcome
Ibe got the 94 ls 400 and currently trying to retime what I believe is the ignition timer.
TDC is marked on one housings where two caps were replaced along with in the same spit the rotors where changed. One of them is set perfect but it's the other one which didn't have a mark like the other one was for TDC to know how far 10 degrees was. Giy working on my car who use to be a good friend up until this does know his way around an engine. But if you know anything about a lexus ls 400 eng8ne you know this thing is a beast and has so many parts that it takes quite a lot to get this done. Anyways where he thought might have possibly been a mark for TDC he used and used that to adjust to the 10 degree but alas it was wrong. Why he put the whole car together before checking his work us something I can't answer but to express how utterly lost I am at understanding just how far this issue can go isn't nearly enough.
I'm assuming all but this one is fine.
From my knowledge there are just 2 distributor caps and 2 rotars which are the only two things I know timing has been adjusted on and if he's right about the one then only one of these two things are set wrong.
My biggest pain in the ass is understanding ehat the heck that cap went onto? The distributor? So the rotor powers the distributor then or what? For some reason i thought it was a cam. As this engine has 4 of these damn things so as you can see with that info maybe you'll have some empathy for my frustration and see where it's coming from.
I'm looking for someone to give me some clarifications to understand what the hell to look at or into to try and fix this problem.
It's likely really fucking simple beyond the taking shit apart part and involves a few twist here and there I just need to know where that is
thoughts on Aluminum vs Brass contacts?
Bad ass video thanks
Your welcome. Thanks for the great comment. Sometimes a very minor and easy to fix problem can take a motor down.
Very informative step by step. Thank you for making the video.
One question, can I use a very small wire brush on the connections? Gently
Yes, gently is the key word. Thanks for watching and the great feedback.
Speaking on the wire diagram I have a stack of photos of firing order sequences lol those really help but putting a little mark on em isn't too bad of an idea
I do the same thing sometimes. Start at one point and number them going clockwise.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 I have one of those low profile distributor caps so it's all numbered already 😅 but it's good to know left side goes 8246 and the right is 1537
do all the center button spring/move?
Just happened to me new cap rotor and some oil in/ on the shaft good to go
Glad my video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching.
Great vid, Big like and Thanks, How about to waterproof the distributor, is there any chance to do it?
You can try silicone on the cap but that would make removal a pain. Plus if moisture did get in, it would never dry. Some distributors also have a vent in the base.
I have a 94 caprice had it for four years never change the spark plugs or did any real route team maintenance other than oil changes finally changed the spark plugs. Exaust started backfiring fixed but now the car jerks and idle and slow acceleration could be because of the distributor ?
very good- i use a dremmel type tool to clean the corrosion off the terminals... and use electro-spray cleaner, dry thoroughly
Great video! Looking to learn old cars and have a 1984 Toyota Carina wich this will be aplied on. What are some of the reasons for condensation in the cap? Is there a seal somewhere that could be bad? And is the best option to just replace the cap?
Pressure washing the engine is a big reason, but you can also run into it in wet humid weather. The moisture in the air plus the engine getting warm and cold can cause it. Some caps have seals but not all. Have you run into it with your car?
I have an '84 F250 that suddenly lost ignition while plowing. it will turn over, but no spark. ignition coil is getting 10 volts of power, and I replaced it so it's new, any ideas for me?
My truck randomly started misfiring and dying but when it idles or when I get up to 40 it’s not as bad I have a 98 k2500 any thoughts I’m thinking distributor but my uncle thinks it’s the cam timing
Can a bad distributor cap cause the engine to shake?
Why did moisture get under the cap how do you stop it
I have an 87 dodge d150 with the lean burn computer. My center nub on mine does appear to be worn down but I don't think it moves. I'm trying to replace the pickup coil right now. Never thought about the cap itself being the problem.
I always recommend checking wearable maintenance parts first when there is a drivability issue. Let me know how it works out for you. Thanks for watching.
Circuit board cleaner after the water displacer when cleaning out the cap.
After brushing out corrosion from the leads and points, hit with circuit board cleaner before your dielectric paste.
It's used to clean circuit boards in a laptop, so should be okay for the distributor cap and leads.
I use the circuit board cleaner when changing fuses in my hatchback
Good idea. The circuit is only as good as its poorest connection.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 physics 101
👍👍👍
I used a brass brass tip and Dremeled my cap terminals
Did it make a big difference on how it ran after? Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks, good videos. Can fixing the distributor cure a misfire? I have a 0300 code.
Thanks for the great comment. Yes a bad distributor cap can cause a misfire. P0300 is a misfire code not tied to any particular cylinder so they can be troublesome to pinpoint. Let me know what you find and how it works out for you. Thanks for watching.
Saved me I’m a noob
Glad my video was able to help.
My truck cranks but no start i did starter solenoid sparkplugs this will cause a no start?
Possibly. I would double-check your connections and make sure sparkplug wires went on to proper cylinders. Hope this helps. Let me know what you find.
What's the proper use of dialectric grease? I see the squeeze packets with a picture of a spark plug but I read recently the grease is non-conductive. Also, as you're working in this video, everything's dry. Help please. I found your video in a search of how to know when distributor is bad.
Thanks for the comment and watching my video. Dielectric grease helps keep water and contaminants out preventing corrosion. It also acts as a lubricant to help you or the next person remove the plug wires without damaging them. I just use a small dab inside the plug wire boots.
is aluminun or brass contacts better ?i need a new distributor cap and i have 2 options brass or aluminum
I would go brass. I think you will get a longer life out of it.
I have the same truck and motor , i cannot get mine to run. I set my motor to tdc on tge compression stroke and then install my distributor accordingly and all it will do is back fire, do you have any advise?
Did you get your truck figured out? Sounds like it could be an ignition module issue or if you had the distributor out, it could be out of time. Let me know what the problem is. Thanks for watching and commenting
What happens of the rotor moves around while changing the cap ? Will it mess up the timing ?
Depending on what's moving, older distributors have vacuum and centrifical advance. What your feeling could be perfectly normal. Did it run fine after you put it back together? Thanks for watching.
"water displacement - forty" takes care of the moisture in the cap and it's non-conductive, then wipe with a bit of toweling. if I don't have tools on board, I make sure I've got my Leatherman (don't leave home without it). 😁✌
A good multi tool is a must have to keep on you at all times.
I got a 92 f150 4.9 liter and ive replaced about everything except the o2 sensor (because i stripped it out)..... but anyways i checked my distributor cap the other day and seen like metallic dust/powder all around the center button and likewise on the rotor itself and some was around the inside of the distributor as well. Could this be whats causing the truck to miss/and buck-jump after i drive it a very short distance.?? Like I'm talking about down my street about 2 to 3 blocks and then its like i can barley make it back home because i got no power and i can put it in neutral and rev it a little but as soon as it's under load it doesn't want to go and is missing like crazy. No backfires though. I can rev it when i first start it all day, and it does almost perfectly (except a little miss every now n then).
So im stumped and need some help if anyone can suggest. Thanks
Liked the video sir! Good job.
Have you found the problem on your truck? The metallic dust concerns me. Have you tried your ignition module? I've seen them cause issues when they warm up. Thanks for watching and commenting. Let me know what you find.
Hello! I need some help!! Im at a lost with my 81 jeep wagoneer limited v8, i replaced sending unit,vents,fuel hoses,starter,capstiol,coil,pickup coil,wires,rotor, distribution cap,just everything i can think of. Still it will not start it turns but no start. Im beating myself in ass wondering wth could be wrong. When i brought it home it started and it out for a spin and came back and parked it and since that day no more starting then when i started replacing everything i could think of!! You u have a clue what could be wrong????
Crank it over with your distributor cap off, see if the rotor turns. Check your spark plugs and see if they are wet with fuel, pick up a spark tester and see if you have spark. Basically try to see if your missing spark, air, fuel, or compression. Once you find out what your missing, it narrows down the cause. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
Do all cars have a distributor cap? I have a WK2 Jeep Grand Cherokee, but havent been able to locate it yet
Only older engines have distributor caps. Most newer ones like yours have distributorless systems "coil on plug" which is an individual coil per cylinder. Hope I was helpful thanks for watching.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 Got it! Thank you!!
This is so close to my truck I got it past 35 to 80 n up but now it’s back to not going past 45 and cuts off when I try n reverse to quick or hit gas to quick I have a 84 custom ford f 250
Have you figured out your truck yet? If it's carbureted check for play in throttle shaft. Let me know what you find.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 I fixed it idk what I did but I changed the fuel pump spark plugs all that and tore down my carb n she running
I got a Ford sierra 1987 V6 GLX. That does not want to start. I replaced distributor cap, the rotor and the point, I also changed the condenser, plug wires, new coil and new spark plugs. My timing is on point but still it does not want to start.
Have you figured your no start out? I would check for power and ground at your ignition coil and check your point gap. Hope it works out for you. Let me know what you find.
I’ve got 153K miles on a Chevy Caprice had it for four years just now doing a spark plug change. Notice when I changed the spark plugs, Exaust was backfiring and Car was shaking in idle could this be a distributor problem ? My car was literally running better with my old spark plugs before changing them.
If it started back firing after the spark plug change, I suspect some spark plug wires got mixed up. I would check that first. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
I changed cap and rotor and the engine doesn’t want to start time I check that the wires are in right order of firing and they are ok… spark plugs are new too what could it be
Was it running before? Could Be a faulty part. Years ago I almost installed a rotor that had no metal electrode.
I have a 78 dodge Sportscoach 440 b300 mobile home at the moment inahbe issues on a cold start. ot will turn over, but it will shut off immediately. it may run for 20 seconds. I was thinking of a faulty fuel pump or needs carburetor adjustments. my reason for thinking something witu fuel is because I'm thinking I have to pump the gas like 50 times evern thogh thr pump was changed about a year or two ago amd it hasn't even ran much. once I get it to stay running, it does fine at restarting throughout the day. it does fine for 6 hours sitting, and I'm not sure what's the final amount of time till it gives me issues again
I would take a look at the choke since its a cold start issue. Perhaps it is sticking open? Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching and commenting.
il take a look at it as soon as I can. how do I diagnose it and fix it? I'm new to fixing vehicles myself being inflation and the rv alone . inflation plus rvs are expensive, tow or on, and the average shop or person I'm from doesn't like on them. So far, the little I've learned how to do saved me tons of $$$ and time waiting I even ahe thr time to do it myself
You can spray WD-40 inside of a cap get water out WD-40 is water displacement and the 40th try but you can spray a mist of w40 and a soaking wet distributor and have it start right up
Your right. WD40 has so many uses. Good to always have a can on hand.
Hello I had a problem today in my 1977 South Wind 440 Motorhome , it fired up after a long shot and went out. 5 years ago I replaced the engine with a younger one, with only 50,000 miles on it , a 3 years ago I rebuild the carburetor due to a large misfire, that time I blew up the mafler, a month ago I replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires and the ignition coil, because I had a misfire again , only today when I couldn't start, I cleaned the spark plugs they were black and oily, but I replaced them a month ago !. I drive my home only twice a month, I do 30 miles round-trip
for the dumping and back to my parking lot, so I cleaned the spark plugs, it fired up and went out, so I unscrewed one spark plug and I checked if it gives a spark, by putting it with the cable against the engine and trying to fired up , there was no spark, I opened the distributor, it was in the same condition as the old one in your film, I cleared it with sandpaper and put it back on, the car did not start up . Now I know that I need to replace the distributor and rotator. By the way, I'm a bit worried, when I took off the distributor cap, two wires were disconnected, I pushed them back, but I'm not sure if they are in the right order . Unfortunately in the hit of work I didn't mark them . What can you advise me ? Thank you.
If it was the spark plug wires you mixed up, I would mark the two that are in question. When you get it to start, if it has a miss then shut it off and switch the plug wires. See if it runs better. If it was only two plug wires that were mixed up you have a 50/50 chance of guessing right. Let me know how it works for you.
You u know why the rotor doesn’t go around
I have maruti omni,i replaced the contact breaker 2months before,but it again leaves during traveling and then i took the car to mechanic,he adjusted the points and it runs well for two weeks but again the contact breaker points leaves,What the reason behind it?
Have you replaced the condenser? If it's faulty, it could cause the points to arc and fail. Hope it works out for you. Let me know.
Yeah yesterday I replaced whole point set in my car,is it work for me?
My car not shifting over after a new distributor can anyone help me out
Are the spark plug wires put on correctly (firing order)? Maybe timing is off? Let me know what you find.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 the transmission hose came off now it won’t stay running for over 5 min
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 thanks for reply back
I have a 99 GMC k2500. My cap and rotor has been changed 4 times in 10 years. Mechanic showed me mine and said the fine yellowish dust is from misfiring and.iys probably misfiring inside the plastic housing somewhere. Anything else I should be looking for. Also. It runs sluggish sometimes when I step on the gas from a stop. Definitely slower going up hill.
I would like to know too if someone knows. Did you try changing out the spark plug wires / spark plugs and make sure the firing order is right ?
perhaps check your GROUND wire connections....... like to your engine block. Can get soaked in oil, otherwise lose integrity....in my experience. Simple FIX