That was tremendous, Albe. With so many crap videos out there, yours was refreshing and informative. Good explanation on everything and neat tricks. Dirt on!
man! thank you so much from Russia! your video is perfect! i mean.. i really have seen a lot of videos where i can't see anything, but yours is very good!! Thanks!!!
@@AlbesADV Hi Albe, A little off subject but I need to replace the gas cap on my 2017 F800GS. The stock cap is very poorly designed and I've broken it twice in 4yrs. Do you know of any after-market gas caps that would do the trick on this bike? There ar elots of options but fitment is definitely a concern. Thanks! Mike
Hi Chris, those comments are like a game of wack-a-mole, I report one and 3 more pop up. I guess robocalls made their way into comments, it's f@king disgrace
Doing this today, thanks for the tutorial! Pivot pegs are the best! I installed mine with the spacer on the opposite side to further lower the C of G for off-road, worked great! Just have to switch the respective springs.
Perfect timing - thx, always enjoy your videos; informative & clear. Edit: Just changed the brake pads & flushed the brake fluid out, all taking less than 30min! It probably goes without saying but make sure the exhaust is cold, I scored a blister on my finger for my efforts
Probably my favorite channel for these simpler repairs. I'm hoping you do one for the bigger maintenance scheduled at 12,000/24,0000 miles (valves, cylinder gasket, etc). Anyway, I'd love to make the ride down to SoCal, if possible, when you hit 5,000 subs.
Aka, Tongue-and-groove pliers, water pump pliers, adjustable pliers, groove-joint pliers, arc-joint pliers, Multi-Grips, tap or pipe spanners, gland pliers. Lol, they have more names than Spanish aristocrats.
Hi Albe, thanks for you video, very useful. I instaled the rear brake pads as indicated in your video, however, the pads are very tight and do not let the rear wheel move free. is this normal? How could I adjust them so there is more space between the pad and the rotor?
Hey Albe, another great video. Your videos have really inspired me to have a go at servicing my F800GS by myself. I have two questions... 1. Do you intend doing a video on the front brake pads? 2. I serviced my whole back wheel and changed my tyre last week, behind the sprocket there are 4 rubber blocks like 2 parts joined together... two of mine were split apart at the joint, does it matter? Thanks for your help!
I will do the front as well, but they are only at 50% of their life so I’ll use them a little longer before replacing them. I’ve heard referring to those rubber blocks as “monkey nuts”, lol, they are actually called “absorbers”, but 🐵🥜 sounds funny so I’m gonna keep using it. They are joined together so they stay in place while accelerating and braking, if they are apart they might move more and wear out faster. They are kind of expensive, around $25 each, but keep an eye on it and replace them if they are visibly wore out. 👍🏼
Will do! Thanks for the rapid reply and keep up the great work. Any way enough Chit chat.. 😁 got to get the bike ready for some off road play at the weekend 👍🏻
When you push the piston back in, the brake fluid goes back into the reservoir and once you are done you just have to push the brake pedal or lever so that the fluid will flow back to the caliper and the piston will push out. 😀👍
Most of the adventure bikes are pretty tall, if I were you I would look for a light one and not worry about the seat height, a light bike it's easier to maneuver around. Anyone out there with a suggestion for Lee?
2005 bmw f650gs does not hold at the first press rear brake holds at the second press.we couldn't get the air in the brake system. Abs brain can also be air?How do we get the air in the abs system? or rear master cylinder problem?
If the brake doesn't hold at first pump, there is definitely a problem with the system. To get the air from the ABS pump you need a gadget like GS911 or motoscan and run the pump while you bleed the brakes. As a first step I would try to bleed the brakes all the way, when you are sure there is no more air in the system, if the problem persists, it's time to troubleshoot the pump or the caliper. I hope you can solve the problem
I replaced 2 rear break pads and 1 front in a year on daily commute. Is it normal they don’t wear out evenly? Is there something wrong with my riding behavior? Do “experienced” rider wears out both pads evenly?
No, it's normal, the front load is distributed between 2 calipers and 4 pads that are bigger as well therefore requires less effort to stop, while the rear caliper and pads are much smaller.
@@AlbesADV yes very weird, the piston was all the way in and only the external side would fit, after trying a bunch more times it finally loosened up on the inside as well, thanks for the response.
More or less they lasted the same in my bike. 7600 miles to the limit (1mm thick). A lot of them in the city with 2 up. Thanks a lot Regards from Argentina
I replaced it with a Galfer disk that I bought on amazon. You can see the installation on one of my “spare rim set up videos” it’s 3 of them, here is the link for the first one ua-cam.com/video/YC9TxE1wXuo/v-deo.html there might be a link in the description for the Galfer brake disk as well.
Dude! To properly flush/bleed this ABS brake system you need to use the diagnostic tool to run the ABS motor. Otherwise air and/or old brake fluid will still be trapped in the system.
Hi Scot, the Pump just meters flow based on wheel travel and traction loss. The fluid still goes from the reservoir to the brake calipers. At least that's my understanding of it. Otherwise if the pump would prevent the fluid to go through, the new fluid from the reservoir would not make it to the caliper when you bleed them without activating the ABS pump.
Scot Campbell I’m sure the German engineers have a whole bunch of reasons to actuate the abs pump, I’m just saying that a “do it yourself” mechanic can get away with just bleeding the brakes the old fashion way and the amount of fluid trapped in the abs pump is minimal.
Hi Oscar, today brake pads all perform well, at least well enough for non race applications, I chose organic because they are softer and therefore easier on the rotors, quieter, give a stronger initial bite, (although they fade in high heat situations) and cost less. If I was installing pads on a performance bike, I.E. the Aprilia Tuono, I wouldn’t have chosen the organic, but for the F800GS the organic pads are more than enough since I don’t plan on racing it anytime soon and comfort and economy are the main characteristics I’m looking for on an adventure/touring bike.
That was tremendous, Albe. With so many crap videos out there, yours was refreshing and informative. Good explanation on everything and neat tricks. Dirt on!
Thank you, dirt on 😀👍
Love the socket against the caliper trick, thanks!
Great "How too..." videos Albe. I own a 2012 BMW F800GS. I often come to your UA-cam videos before doing my maintenance. Thanks.
Thank you, my videos might not be perfect, but at least you know what to expect when you do your own bike.
Wow, I would have never guessed the rear brake pads would need changing so soon. Thanks, I'll need to take a look at mine (7k miles).
I use the rear brake a lot, especially off-road
man! thank you so much from Russia! your video is perfect! i mean.. i really have seen a lot of videos where i can't see anything, but yours is very good!! Thanks!!!
Thank you 😀👍
Absolutely agree! Great Quality video!
Thanks so much Albe! This was the firat time I've worked on my 2017 F800 GS and it was a huge success! Greetings and thanks from Oceanside, CA!
No problem Michael, I love Oceanside 👍
@@AlbesADV Hi Albe, A little off subject but I need to replace the gas cap on my 2017 F800GS. The stock cap is very poorly designed and I've broken it twice in 4yrs. Do you know of any after-market gas caps that would do the trick on this bike? There ar elots of options but fitment is definitely a concern. Thanks! Mike
Hi Mike, unfortunately I don't, I'm pretty sure there must be one out there but I don't know which one
@@AlbesADV Thanks Albe!
Thank you so much! I managed to change the pads and the liquid all by my self. With your help!
Good job 😀👍
Great tip on that socket and clamp trick.
Really solid video all around actually. Thanks for the product links too. I'll be getting one of those brake pedals.
Thanks Nathan 😀👍
Looks like you are wearing an aviation headset in the picture.
@@AlbesADV I am. I asked the pilot if I could ride up front on a small commercial flight from where I live. He said yes 👍
cool man 🛩👍
Well done. I'm confident that I can tackle this myself after watching this video!
@Dean Ronan
You're right, no one cares.
Hi Chris, those comments are like a game of wack-a-mole, I report one and 3 more pop up. I guess robocalls made their way into comments, it's f@king disgrace
Doing this today, thanks for the tutorial! Pivot pegs are the best! I installed mine with the spacer on the opposite side to further lower the C of G for off-road, worked great! Just have to switch the respective springs.
Perfect timing - thx, always enjoy your videos; informative & clear.
Edit: Just changed the brake pads & flushed the brake fluid out, all taking less than 30min!
It probably goes without saying but make sure the exhaust is cold, I scored a blister on my finger for my efforts
Probably my favorite channel for these simpler repairs. I'm hoping you do one for the bigger maintenance scheduled at 12,000/24,0000 miles (valves, cylinder gasket, etc). Anyway, I'd love to make the ride down to SoCal, if possible, when you hit 5,000 subs.
Sounds good, only 1100 subs to go
Channel Locks is the pliers you are using. Never heard them called plumbers pliers. Thank you for the video.
Aka, Tongue-and-groove pliers, water pump pliers, adjustable pliers, groove-joint pliers, arc-joint pliers, Multi-Grips, tap or pipe spanners, gland pliers. Lol, they have more names than Spanish aristocrats.
Thanks for this very useful tutorial.
No problem 😀👍
Awesome videos buddy, i learned so much stuff form ur channel! 👍
Thank you AlternateRock1 😀👍
Another great easy to follow video, keep it up Albe :-)
thanks for that will do my rear brakes myself now... made look realy easy....
Good job!
Once again Albe, Great video! I live in the Inland Empire, please reply back when you set up the Ride.
Will do, thanks for watching 👍
Thanx! Love the accent, italy? I LOVE ITALY! :D
Thanx man 😀🇮🇹
Nice job. Do You have any videos with tips on how to change the rear brake lever?
Hi Michal, no not yet
Another great video. Has anyone found a reasonably priced folding rear brake solution so it doesn't bend in the event of tip over etc?
I haven't found anything yet but I haven't been looking hard either, I guess I'll wait until I break it 😁
Is there brake fluid that is part of the abs system that needs to be changed also ?
The fluid in the ABS pump is minimal, besides, when the pump is not working the fluid is free to pass thru.
Thank you for this video
Also grease the brake pins for corrosion
Hi Albe, thanks for you video, very useful. I instaled the rear brake pads as indicated in your video, however, the pads are very tight and do not let the rear wheel move free. is this normal? How could I adjust them so there is more space between the pad and the rotor?
Hi Martin, make sure the spring clip didn't move out of place. Let me know
Hey Albe, another great video. Your videos have really inspired me to have a go at servicing my F800GS by myself. I have two questions... 1. Do you intend doing a video on the front brake pads? 2. I serviced my whole back wheel and changed my tyre last week, behind the sprocket there are 4 rubber blocks like 2 parts joined together... two of mine were split apart at the joint, does it matter? Thanks for your help!
I will do the front as well, but they are only at 50% of their life so I’ll use them a little longer before replacing them. I’ve heard referring to those rubber blocks as “monkey nuts”, lol, they are actually called “absorbers”, but 🐵🥜 sounds funny so I’m gonna keep using it. They are joined together so they stay in place while accelerating and braking, if they are apart they might move more and wear out faster. They are kind of expensive, around $25 each, but keep an eye on it and replace them if they are visibly wore out. 👍🏼
Will do! Thanks for the rapid reply and keep up the great work. Any way enough Chit chat.. 😁 got to get the bike ready for some off road play at the weekend 👍🏻
I'm getting this done at the dealers tomorrow front and rear
just wondering, after using c-clamp to push the piston in and replace the pads. is the piston coming out automatically or I have to adjust it?
When you push the piston back in, the brake fluid goes back into the reservoir and once you are done you just have to push the brake pedal or lever so that the fluid will flow back to the caliper and the piston will push out. 😀👍
Amazing!
Hi Albe! Does this replace the brake fluid in the ABS system too?
I believe it should replace most of it.
So my caliper itself is not moving.what's the size of the clamp you used albe?.. Thanks for your always help :)
I’m not really sure what size it is, and the clamp itself doesn’t have any markings on it.
@@AlbesADV ok no worries thanks mate :)
What up Albe! What’s a good adventure bike for a short dude. Cuz that bike in person is huge.
Most of the adventure bikes are pretty tall, if I were you I would look for a light one and not worry about the seat height, a light bike it's easier to maneuver around. Anyone out there with a suggestion for Lee?
Albe's Adv I guess that makes sense. Clearance being important and all. I guess the only thing to do is get out there and start test driving some.
Yup, that is it. Are you thinking long haul tipe of bike or day ride road/off-road kind?
2005 bmw f650gs does not hold at the first press rear brake holds at the second press.we couldn't get the air in the brake system.
Abs brain can also be air?How do we get the air in the abs system?
or rear master cylinder problem?
If the brake doesn't hold at first pump, there is definitely a problem with the system. To get the air from the ABS pump you need a gadget like GS911 or motoscan and run the pump while you bleed the brakes. As a first step I would try to bleed the brakes all the way, when you are sure there is no more air in the system, if the problem persists, it's time to troubleshoot the pump or the caliper. I hope you can solve the problem
You don't have to check the ABS system with the OBDlink after flushing the brake system?
Not according to the maintenance manual
My brake pins are damaged because the corrosion so the brake pads do not back easely staying pressing the disc. Where do I find these pins?
Check bikebandit.com they usually have a whole bunch of OEM parts hard to find. 👍
I replaced 2 rear break pads and 1 front in a year on daily commute. Is it normal they don’t wear out evenly? Is there something wrong with my riding behavior? Do “experienced” rider wears out both pads evenly?
No, it's normal, the front load is distributed between 2 calipers and 4 pads that are bigger as well therefore requires less effort to stop, while the rear caliper and pads are much smaller.
Mine doesn't fit 😭 even with piston all the way in, any recommendations?
The caliper doesn't fit back in with the new pads? That is very weird 😳
@@AlbesADV yes very weird, the piston was all the way in and only the external side would fit, after trying a bunch more times it finally loosened up on the inside as well, thanks for the response.
Hi Albe, how many miles lasted the rear pads in your bike ?
About 7500miles, I could have probably stretch them to 8000 miles safely
More or less they lasted the same in my bike. 7600 miles to the limit (1mm thick). A lot of them in the city with 2 up.
Thanks a lot
Regards from Argentina
Albe, good day, seems you change the stock disk breake, I would like to do the same, can you tell me tre brand or where can I get them.
I replaced it with a Galfer disk that I bought on amazon. You can see the installation on one of my “spare rim set up videos” it’s 3 of them, here is the link for the first one ua-cam.com/video/YC9TxE1wXuo/v-deo.html there might be a link in the description for the Galfer brake disk as well.
Dude! To properly flush/bleed this ABS brake system you need to use the diagnostic tool to run the ABS motor. Otherwise air and/or old brake fluid will still be trapped in the system.
Hi Scot,
the Pump just meters flow based on wheel travel and traction loss. The fluid still goes from the reservoir to the brake calipers. At least that's my understanding of it.
Otherwise if the pump would prevent the fluid to go through, the new fluid from the reservoir would not make it to the caliper when you bleed them without activating the ABS pump.
Albe's Adv The gs-911 tool has a “bleed brakes” function, that actuates the abs, for a reason, no?
Scot Campbell I’m sure the German engineers have a whole bunch of reasons to actuate the abs pump, I’m just saying that a “do it yourself” mechanic can get away with just bleeding the brakes the old fashion way and the amount of fluid trapped in the abs pump is minimal.
which pad u recommend ?
I usually buy EBC pads
@@AlbesADV thanks Albe
@@AlbesADV one question, why did you use the organic ones (FA213) and not the sintered ones (FA213HH)?
Hi Oscar, today brake pads all perform well, at least well enough for non race applications, I chose organic because they are softer and therefore easier on the rotors, quieter, give a stronger initial bite, (although they fade in high heat situations) and cost less. If I was installing pads on a performance bike, I.E. the Aprilia Tuono, I wouldn’t have chosen the organic, but for the F800GS the organic pads are more than enough since I don’t plan on racing it anytime soon and comfort and economy are the main characteristics I’m looking for on an adventure/touring bike.