+Jordan Hoffman Well, when you're changing pads on your bike, you don't have to take the wheels off haha! Seriously, though, there isn't much different. -DrewZilla
ok thanks i have a project to fix up its a 1978 ds80 80cc. it was used for on/off road but now it's rusty and tank has big bents in it but as i sayed project bike. thank you so much that you read the comments i hope you read this
holy crap I just sw the name tag. For clarity, Lemmy is the name of the singer/bass player from Motorhead, a nickname from when he was all poor and used to ask everyone if they would "lemme a fiver".
I don't even pay a shop to do the brakes on my cars, and those require a lot more work. You don't even need to take off the wheel or lift it. You live and learn.
There might be more bikeless bros watching these than you think. Since buying a used small CC bike is the easiest and cheapest way to start your motorcycling career, knowing how to do basic maintenance on a bike is pretty important. You don't want to start learning on a dangerous bike. Brakes, oil change, new chain and sprocket might be things you change before you even start riding. Even if the bike is in great shape, those are things you either want to change or at least have an idea if they are still in good shape before start riding. If you crash, it should be because you lack the skill. It shouldn't be because the bike was trying to kill you.
Revzilla has been my go-to for parts and any info I need on maintenance for years. The other day I ordered new rear brake pads and decided to check my order history and my god I’ve spent thousands here. I’ve owned 6 motorcycles in the last 8 years and have customized every one.
@@etaybokish it absolutely should be air tight. If it overflowed then you must have had the resevoir lid off because brake fluid does not compress it would naturally flow out the top so .....that wasnt very smart.
Seriously, thank you for all you do. Really new to the whole self-servicing my own motorcycle type of deal (outside of an oil change) so it's nice to know that something that has always terrified me (brake changes) is definitely not hard.
Lemmy must realize that brake jobs are very important, hence not having a beer or drink in the episode. That is probably a good choice. Anyways, thanks for another helpful video.
I’ve always been that guy who takes his bike to the mechanic and get these jobs done because I’ve had no confidence to do it myself. Watching this Lemmy has made it look much simpler then the monstrous job I thought it was!
as an ex bike mechanic and raced in the R6 cup 2 decades ago i can confirm 100% that bike mechanics dont always do the job right and they certainly arent cleaning all your parts thoroughly when they are off. Just so you know that.
A good tip when putting that type of caliper back together is to put the caliper back on then sliding the pads in from the top, then you don't have to use 3 hands to hold it together. Also check the brakefluid level as you're pushing the calipers in and while you are doing it Also check the brakehose for wears and cracks.
Awesome job on this video. Just like anything else, step by step. Some are intimidated as they have never replaced their pads. If you have mechanical aptitude, watch these videos and check your manuals. Not hard to do at all. I even replaced my clutch and clutch springs. The more you learn how to work on your bike, the more you get to know your bike.
Thanks a lot for this video. I was able to install my front brake pads successfully. I came here to find out the trick to push the caliper cylinders back and I got it.
Wow! Thank you for this very informational vid! I was actually intimidated in looking into brake pad replacement, but your explanation of the whole process is very confidence inspiring. Thank you once again!
Everything you do looks so easy... For "normal" people like me, I think all those mechanic aspects are sort of a mystery, but your videos really show that we can do most of the jobs ourselves and therefore save some $$. For example, I changed the oil on my wife's Kawa a couple weeks ago, it was really quick and easy... A garage would have charged around 200! (in Switzerland).
Thanks for the video Lemmy. You inspired me to change the rear pads on my Kawasaki ZX14R and it could not have been easier. 10-15 minutes all up. Outer pad was more worn than the inner. Thanks again, I really apreciate your maintenance vids.
Well done! I don’t need to do a brake job on my motorcycle I did one last year but it is so refreshing to always watch somebody and learn from them. Thank you very well done very well explained and explaining some of the pitfalls that guys with not a lot of experience make probably saved money and may be a lifer too God bless you guys thank you
thanks, with my warrenty up from Harley Davidson, I did my front brakes myself ... got to the ordering new pads, but cleaned the parts, noticed one caliper was sticking more, so I will have to go a little deeper in cleaning, but the video helped me out. Never changed brakes on anything before. ThumbsUp
Coolant flushed, oil changed and new filter, cleaned and lubed chain, bled my brakes. Next up, changing some pads. I'll never pay a shop to do what I mentioned again. Thanks Lemmy!
First video I have ever seen from this channel and I do have to say that your information is wonderful and the way you go into detail as to how parts work and the process itself is great. Definitely subscribed and will watch in the future!
Hey guys, great video, just wanted to let you know that those EBC brake pads don't need silicone/copper grease on the back of the pads, it actually says not to do it on their website: ebcbrakes.com/product/ebc-caliper-brake-lube/ the pads have a copper backing and the grease just catches and traps dirt, I've been running mine dry with no brake noise whatsoever, happy motorcycling!
First off, let me say that I like Ari Henning's wrenching videos too. I've followed him since MC Garage and he's great. That said, there is something about Lemmy's tone and the reassurances with which he starts out every video. I inevitably look up wrenching videos in a state of semi-worry about the job ahead, and Lemmy always seems to talk me back to equilibrium.
The pads on my front brake are showing very odd wear. The outboard pad is worn thin but the inboard pad isn't showing much wear at all. This is on a 2016 Honda Fury. Could I possibly need a whole new caliper already? Anyway, thanks for the education.
Yeah, I've been waisting my money for years when I ask a mechanic to do it, thanks a lot, Lemmy, great video! I'm going for it, now I feel confident enough to try!
Great tutorial! When I change brake calipers on my cars, they tend to be quite heavy and the hoses tend to be rubber, so I *always* support them. The best way to do it on a car is with zip ties; So I'd reccomend zip-tying the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the brake line, even if the brake line is tough.
Bike brake lines are magnitudes stronger and for the weight of the caliper they can take it for fun. Bike brake lines are made in cross ply and radial as they are designed to constantly move and streach so they can take the weight of even a large caliper no problem. The problem with leaving car calipers dangling on the hoses is that the caliper is about 3 ton and the short section of hose is lesser quality than motorbike ones and they dont like bending more than a few inch in one direction. See in any circumstances where your hoses cannot take the weight of a caliper id suggest that your hoses were long by their best and needing replacing anyway. On cars its always the end fittings where it holds onto the hose that get it when you dangle the caliper on the hose alone.. or its when the outer hose has perished enough that cracks are showing it ends up punishing them hairline cracks and sometimes they hold out for 6 month afterwards in that case but it does seriously age them in that case so i agree with you on the car side of things. Bikes you really dont want any weaknesses on the brake lines at all as you fall off motorbikes
Thanks for the great illustration. I changed the pads on my 2000 Nighthawk with minimal hassle. Probably saved myself $60-$80 which I can now use to buy new stuff for my bike! You guys help to build my confidence to do maintenance myself.
This guys is a very good teacher and does things the right way! Thanks for your help and keep doing good quality work without cutting corners as you mentioned. Way to go bro! Thanks again!
Question I know you said in the beginning of your video to don’t press the brake lever but I heard complete opposite once the caliper comes off to wedge a popsicle stick or an old brake pad in there crank that puppy all the way down to the Pistons exposed to get some 400 grit sandpaper around it to clean off the gunk then compress it I also have another question because after I did this a tiny piece of metal fell out of my brake caliper but I have no clue where it goes but everything went right back together perfectly fine
Got a new subscriber 😂 I've recently got into motorbikes and replaced my rear brake pads yesterday. No prior experience but seemed self explanatory. Had to take a quick ride out today for job interview and noticed the brake was sticking slightly on the way. I did not clean the pistons or push the pistons all the way back into the caliper housing and would never have thought to lube up the back of the pads or pad pins.... my caliper is slightly different to this one but I think I make have put the shim in slightly off aswell. Now I know where I went wrong I'll go back tomorrow and redo it. Cheers for the vid
I will be replacing my front pads soon and will definitely be referring to this video in the near future. I genuinely appreciate your enthusiastic and knowledgeable walk-through.
Interesting question: Wouldn't you want to push the pistons out a little more and clean them up before putting them back all the way in to put the new pads ??
Next time, install the caliper first (finger tight) and then slide in the pads and install the shim and pins. Spin the wheel and gently pull the level to stop the wheel. (repeat about 3 or 4 times) on the last time hold the level while tightening down the caliper bolts.
Thx, great tutorial.. but after cleaning the callipers and putting back the new pads the front wheel feels really stiff now. When I lift the front wheel and spin it it stops immediately. What could go wrong? Everything looked ok, breaks dont squeek, they work when I use the break lever, this is the only problem I have, maybe too much break fluid...? I haven't tried to go for a short ride yet but maybe it will need just a short ride?
Do you have to use lube? All that's available in my area is petroleum based brake grease. So is it a preference thing or requirement? Also my bike does not have rubber slide pin boots. Advice please????
Lubricants are specific to the application, so you really need to refer to your factory service manual (or get a factory service manual and confirm the specification if you don't already have one). It's important to use what the manufacturer specifies. -DrewZilla
One question. Is it normal that brake calipers have a little freeplay when you tighten them on frame. I mean when you hold the caliper by hand and wable it, you can feel it wobble just slightly.
Quick question, I got a small amount of lube onto 1 of the brake pads by accident roughly the size of a fingerprint. Will this be an issue and do I need new brake pads because they are contaminated or can I just clean it off with brake cleaner. Thanks.
Brake cleaner .... beware the first ride .... grease will burn off or run it for a Km and stop and wipe disk rotor with brake cleaner to get ride of the transfer of grease .... not a biggie.
OK this was fantastic and I am glad I saw this one. I have an Indian Roadmaster and have heard the EBC pads make a big difference. You were very clear and consice in how this is done. Thank you for saving me some cash.
avoid EBC now they are garbage they have cheapened out the brand big time over the last 5yr. SBS are the old EBC and the ones everyone here in UK, IOM and Ireland are using. The Double HHs EBC went from one of the best to one of the worst in one swoop so be warned.
Right - that seems clear enough, now to have a go. Being a 68yr old woman from an admin background I don't have a lot of mechanical expereince, but I figure if I got the bike and the tools I should use them!
Just had a garage do my brakes and my front is perfect but my rear is worse now than the 5000mlie pads that had just been removed. Whats up with that??
Which break pads are you using? It's impossible for me to get the Nissin Brake Pads myself because Nissin only sells it to authorized service stations.
I'm always wondering, how do motorcycle pads return. I changed pads on Camry, which would return the pads by a spring. Not the case on my Roadmaster, which might be the problem leading to brake drag. I will be on my 3rd pads with only 40K highway miles.
Lemmy, love your videos, so helpful. I have a question. I have a 2007 Dyna Super Glide Custom and the owners manual describes changing the rear brake pads without removing the caliper. Does that sound right?
Thanks Lemmy! I lucked out because i have the same calipers on my bike. I noticed you didn't reuse the anti-squeal brackets on the new pads, was that just an accident?
Hey! I'm about to change my rear brake pads for the first time. I'm doing the rear first as a test, so if I fail I only lose 20% of my braking capacity (in theory, lol). I was wondering if I can use copper grease to lubricate the parts that you lubricated with special brake lubricant. I've seen copper grease used in some other videos and was wondering what you'd think about it! Cheers!
@@justan-eli9262It went well, I did my back brakes to begin with. I figured if I somehow messed it up, I'd only lose 20% of my braking capacity since the front would still work. But I'm confident now in my ability to do a brake job. I finished it in 20 minutes or so, and I'm a two left handed mechanic. But I like to just try and play around with it, to get better at it and save some coin in the long run!
Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir as you push the pistons in. There is the faint possibility they may overflow if the brake fluid has been topped as the pads wore.
You're absolutely right. Lemmy mentions this detail in his companion article as well: _"If you have been adding fluid, you may want to visit our how-to on servicing the hydraulic portion of your brakes and you may need to draw some of the fluid out of the reservoir before you start. Otherwise, a brake job may end up turning into a paint job, because spilled brake fluid is nasty to your paint."_ -DrewZilla
What type of grease are you using to lube the pin that hold the brakes. I have a 2015 roadking is Harley’s use different grease? they squeaking and I didn’t use grease in that sliding pin.
Hello Lemmy, after doing rear disc brake service the pedal stays down I ne,ed to manually lift it up, suggestions please. I have a 2002 1200 Sportster, thanks, Brian
Lemmy, great job as always. I just one question. What can be done in the end if the caliber pistons dont go to their place? I already pumped the brakes but still they dont brake... Thanks :)
Hey +RevZilla I tried to push the pistons back into the caliper like the video said, it was really hard to do so. Instead of what Lemmy did, I used a channel lock plier to push it back in, using a towel so it doesn't damage the pistons. It worked, but now I am unsure if I did something bad or not. Thanks!
ebc are terrible now they have done a "one size fits all" on us and now the same pad fits about 10 more bikes because they ovulated the caliper pin holes enough to fit more fitments. They are the worst pad you can buy in the UK now for Track and fast road use they absolutely suck compared to what they were even 5yr ago. The EBC HHs the gap is too big between the abrasive chunks and they are basically two seperate small chunks rather than one large one with relief cuts. The older HHs were made correctly and had good lead & trailing edge robustness, the new ones are the worst of the worst. In the UK and IOM we fit SBS pads mate they are made in Denmark and basically are the old EBCs with a more advanced relief cut. For example the SBS sold as "evo sintered street performance" for fast road and track use are identicall backing and fitment size as the older proper EBC HHs but the abrasive side is the best quality sintered and pressed on fit and is a true sintered material and has been fully sintered to the backing plate as one big pad then the relief cuts ground out so theres no chance of material mismatches or bad bonding in the individual blocks. EBC are to be avoided now at all costs they are terrible
Thank you this great video. I normally ask a friend to do jobs like this but you made me realise how easy it is to do when shown correctly. now gonna check out some of your other vids. you saved me money too.
Thanks Lenny. Another great video. I thought I was subscribed, but wasn't. I am now. Between you, Ken Cordon, and Kevin Morris, I'm learning better ways to ride and service my own bike. Yes, I'm learning. I started riding at 14 on a Honda Trail 90 that was given to me if I could fix everything on it. I did. That was in 1969.
Tip: Having a really hard time getting the (cleaned) pistons back in? Use a clamp with the old pads. Make sure not to crank it hard though, be very soft and insure the clamp isn't directly on the caliber/new pads.
Car mechanic who has never done motorcycle brakes before. Kawi says to leave the caliper on and take the pads out from the top (2019 Z900ABS). They seem pretty serious about it because they used Torx bolts to hold the caliper on. (Everyone knows only certified professionals can remove Torx bolts). I'm confident and possibly even competent enough to remove the calipers to change the pads, and give the whole system a good staring at. Thoughts?
That's perfectly fine, kawi just recommend removing from the top as it is the faster way to get the job done and if you're a car mechanic I'm sure you know the importance of book time vs actual work time when it comes to ringing up the bill at the dealer. You can easily pull the caliper off, clean the dust off thoroughly, and replace the pads with the caliper in your hand. That said, on a bike that new a full inspection is not really required. I hope that helps! -Zack
i fall in category 3.. for whatever reason this video was suggested to me by youtube, and to further procrastinate doing other things (like cleaning my house) i started watching this :)
You dont grease the back of pads mate especially not for racing use. The pad backing is made to allow for free movement between it and the brake caliper piston skirts and even allows for the braking gas to float the pad temporarily when your pads are red hot im not joking thats part of the engineering behind pads both SBS & EBC have the tech & data sheets on it if you need to see for yourself. Another thing lubing the back of the pads does is hold dirt in and if you ever wash them with even a grease remover or proper traffic film remover you will wash the silicone lube out of the pads and onto the discs (rotors for Americans) which is fine if you are doing a thorough wash of the entire front end but isnt ideal either way. The manufacturers and race teams suggest the only part you ever lubricate should be the caliper pin silco lubed then wiped off by cloth so there is no thickness and this is only to be done if the pin is in bad condition or is not being thoroughly cleaned between pad changes in race use. Good vid though and another thing to mention is to wash out your bungs on the disc so the outer disc actually floats correctly. if all your disc bungs have caked up you will defo get overheating and wear on the leading edge of the pads. Every set of pads ive done where the leading edge is overheating or wearing fast has been because the bungs on the disc werent letting the outer disc surface float. You also want to unscrew the cap on the brake rez when reseting the pads so the diafram isnt fighting you from pushing the pistons back in and so both sides have identical pressure when you reseal the cap, technically they will equalise over time but the problem is you dont have time when racing, another way to do it is slighly undo the bleeder as that prevents mucky fluid being sucked back up the lines so thats why its drilled into me to do everything correctly every time. I raced R6 cup back in early 2000s and done several bike mechanic jobs mostly race outfits here in Scotland alongside my Usual job as boat builder and marine mech. Hope this helps
One of the best ,professional n detailed video i have ever seen ,Lemmy you're the BEST. Great job,i may call you some time ,if i need help with my Suzuki Gsxr 600. Thanks
Hey! I have a question. I recently bought new rear brake pads for my ER6N 2011, and while trying to mount them, I noticed that my old pads had no 'holes' in them and the single piston just left one giant stain. Now, with my new ones there are 2 holes on the back (possible for 2 pistons, I don't know). Does one piston still pull those two holes on the brake pad vacuum, or do I need ones without those holes?
I just had my front disc brake and pads changed to new ones by a mechanic. I didn't pay atention to exactly how much the wheel could spin (before the change of pads and disc) when i would just try and spin it when on the centre stand. But now i notice that it barely spins. Maybe 1/2 a turn when i give it a spin with my hand. I'm thinking the pads are touching the disc? Is that normal or should i adjust the pads so the wheel can spin freely? Thanks!
That's normal and should subside over time. Both the new pads and new brake disc are slightly thicker than the old, worn disc and pads, so they're going to rub a bit at first. -DrewZilla
Great video, thanks. On backside of my old pads were attached these thin metal grills which I forgot to take off and put on my new pads. I saw you did not put them there either. Are they must? Thanks
They aren't a must, but they can help reduce rattling or squealing. If you ride the bike and notice that the pads are making a lot of noise, then it might be worth going back in to attach the metal grills. -DrewZilla
LOL is lemmy italian? he talks with his hands as much as anthony. Do you not recommend light or medium loctite on the caliper bolts? I have had my shake loose, so i have been using light loctite. Good Job Lemmy.
Just changed my front pads but after compressing the caliper pistons and putting everything back together, the brake lever is staying soft no matter how many times I pump it keeps fully depressing. Went to check the master cylinder and stripped a screw 😑 need help...
+Jordan Hoffman Well, when you're changing pads on your bike, you don't have to take the wheels off haha! Seriously, though, there isn't much different. -DrewZilla
+RevZilla what about drum brakes
With drum brakes, you generally have to remove the wheel. -DrewZilla
ok thanks i have a project to fix up its a 1978 ds80 80cc. it was used for on/off road but now it's rusty and tank has big bents in it but as i sayed project bike.
thank you so much that you read the comments i hope you read this
Omg! I love you! Thanks for this video! I'm going to be changing my bike's brake pads, have done so in a car, now time to do it on my bike. 🏍✌💯💝
Did you push in the pistons in this video?
Can't believe I ever paid a shop to do this job, Thanks Lemmy
not quite the Lemmy I grew up with but I like where you are going!
holy crap I just sw the name tag. For clarity, Lemmy is the name of the singer/bass player from Motorhead, a nickname from when he was all poor and used to ask everyone if they would "lemme a fiver".
I don't even pay a shop to do the brakes on my cars, and those require a lot more work. You don't even need to take off the wheel or lift it.
You live and learn.
"Kucklehead's garage" will always be there for you!
I feel like with Lemmy I can learn anything and be confident doing it.
I'm the even smaller group. I don't even have a bike; I'm just watching videos.
lol
BIKELESS BROS UNITE
Same no bike....yet. Researching first
Got one yet ?
There might be more bikeless bros watching these than you think. Since buying a used small CC bike is the easiest and cheapest way to start your motorcycling career, knowing how to do basic maintenance on a bike is pretty important. You don't want to start learning on a dangerous bike. Brakes, oil change, new chain and sprocket might be things you change before you even start riding. Even if the bike is in great shape, those are things you either want to change or at least have an idea if they are still in good shape before start riding. If you crash, it should be because you lack the skill. It shouldn't be because the bike was trying to kill you.
Revzilla has been my go-to for parts and any info I need on maintenance for years. The other day I ordered new rear brake pads and decided to check my order history and my god I’ve spent thousands here. I’ve owned 6 motorcycles in the last 8 years and have customized every one.
You forgot to mention to check the brake fluid level before pushing the pistons in, you might overflow :)
overflow? it's a closed system
It’s not air-tight, oil can flow thru your brake fluid (cylinder?) top container thing. Happened to me today when replacing brake fluid.
True.
@@etaybokish it absolutely should be air tight. If it overflowed then you must have had the resevoir lid off because brake fluid does not compress it would naturally flow out the top so .....that wasnt very smart.
@@etaybokish of course it's air tight. It has to be so tight that under enormous hydraulic pressure nothing leaks out. That's it's entire job.
You've apparently never seen me put butter and jelly on my toast friend!!!
Jrock420blam I was thinking the same. Quarter container of pb and half a gallon of jelly. Per slice lol
I actually spread my bread on my bp&j 🙆🏻♂️
dont forget, taking the cap off the brake cylinder would probably help you push those pistons in.
Seriously, thank you for all you do. Really new to the whole self-servicing my own motorcycle type of deal (outside of an oil change) so it's nice to know that something that has always terrified me (brake changes) is definitely not hard.
Lemmy must realize that brake jobs are very important, hence not having a beer or drink in the episode. That is probably a good choice. Anyways, thanks for another helpful video.
It's easy to learn though
Most helpful video I’ve seen on UA-cam, I feel instantly confident to change my pads, I only just started riding.
I’ve always been that guy who takes his bike to the mechanic and get these jobs done because I’ve had no confidence to do it myself. Watching this Lemmy has made it look much simpler then the monstrous job I thought it was!
as an ex bike mechanic and raced in the R6 cup 2 decades ago i can confirm 100% that bike mechanics dont always do the job right and they certainly arent cleaning all your parts thoroughly when they are off. Just so you know that.
A good tip when putting that type of caliper back together is to put the caliper back on then sliding the pads in from the top, then you don't have to use 3 hands to hold it together. Also check the brakefluid level as you're pushing the calipers in and while you are doing it Also check the brakehose for wears and cracks.
Awesome job on this video. Just like anything else, step by step. Some are intimidated as they have never replaced their pads. If you have mechanical aptitude, watch these videos and check your manuals. Not hard to do at all. I even replaced my clutch and clutch springs. The more you learn how to work on your bike, the more you get to know your bike.
Thanks a lot for this video. I was able to install my front brake pads successfully. I came here to find out the trick to push the caliper cylinders back and I got it.
What do I do if I've pulled the break lever please help!
So what did you do? Or you're still out of ride?
@@1scott921 we shall never know
Wow! Thank you for this very informational vid! I was actually intimidated in looking into brake pad replacement, but your explanation of the whole process is very confidence inspiring. Thank you once again!
Everything you do looks so easy... For "normal" people like me, I think all those mechanic aspects are sort of a mystery, but your videos really show that we can do most of the jobs ourselves and therefore save some $$. For example, I changed the oil on my wife's Kawa a couple weeks ago, it was really quick and easy... A garage would have charged around 200! (in Switzerland).
Your vid is still helping people get to know their bike almost 5 years later, Thanks Lemmy
Thanks for the video Lemmy. You inspired me to change the rear pads on my Kawasaki ZX14R and it could not have been easier. 10-15 minutes all up. Outer pad was more worn than the inner. Thanks again, I really apreciate your maintenance vids.
Nice presentation, Lemmy. Thank you Revzilla for going the extra mile to help us riders enjoy the road more than the workshop! 👍
Don't forget to open the brake fluid reservoir to remove fluid if necessary from what is being pushed back to the reservoir by the retracted pistons
Well done! I don’t need to do a brake job on my motorcycle I did one last year but it is so refreshing to always watch somebody and learn from them. Thank you very well done very well explained and explaining some of the pitfalls that guys with not a lot of experience make probably saved money and may be a lifer too God bless you guys thank you
He is really good in front of the camera, great explanation and good speaking. Will check out more videos from you and him, thanks!
I know my brakes and do them already, but clicked the video for the extra advise you don't normally hear or think of... Again top vid as usual.
thanks, with my warrenty up from Harley Davidson, I did my front brakes myself ... got to the ordering new pads, but cleaned the parts, noticed one caliper was sticking more, so I will have to go a little deeper in cleaning, but the video helped me out. Never changed brakes on anything before. ThumbsUp
Coolant flushed, oil changed and new filter, cleaned and lubed chain, bled my brakes. Next up, changing some pads. I'll never pay a shop to do what I mentioned again. Thanks Lemmy!
First video I have ever seen from this channel and I do have to say that your information is wonderful and the way you go into detail as to how parts work and the process itself is great. Definitely subscribed and will watch in the future!
Hey guys, great video, just wanted to let you know that those EBC brake pads don't need silicone/copper grease on the back of the pads, it actually says not to do it on their website: ebcbrakes.com/product/ebc-caliper-brake-lube/ the pads have a copper backing and the grease just catches and traps dirt, I've been running mine dry with no brake noise whatsoever, happy motorcycling!
First off, let me say that I like Ari Henning's wrenching videos too. I've followed him since MC Garage and he's great.
That said, there is something about Lemmy's tone and the reassurances with which he starts out every video. I inevitably look up wrenching videos in a state of semi-worry about the job ahead, and Lemmy always seems to talk me back to equilibrium.
The pads on my front brake are showing very odd wear. The outboard pad is worn thin but the inboard pad isn't showing much wear at all. This is on a 2016 Honda Fury. Could I possibly need a whole new caliper already? Anyway, thanks for the education.
Yeah, I've been waisting my money for years when I ask a mechanic to do it, thanks a lot, Lemmy, great video! I'm going for it, now I feel confident enough to try!
Great tutorial! When I change brake calipers on my cars, they tend to be quite heavy and the hoses tend to be rubber, so I *always* support them. The best way to do it on a car is with zip ties; So I'd reccomend zip-tying the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the brake line, even if the brake line is tough.
Bike brake lines are magnitudes stronger and for the weight of the caliper they can take it for fun. Bike brake lines are made in cross ply and radial as they are designed to constantly move and streach so they can take the weight of even a large caliper no problem. The problem with leaving car calipers dangling on the hoses is that the caliper is about 3 ton and the short section of hose is lesser quality than motorbike ones and they dont like bending more than a few inch in one direction. See in any circumstances where your hoses cannot take the weight of a caliper id suggest that your hoses were long by their best and needing replacing anyway. On cars its always the end fittings where it holds onto the hose that get it when you dangle the caliper on the hose alone.. or its when the outer hose has perished enough that cracks are showing it ends up punishing them hairline cracks and sometimes they hold out for 6 month afterwards in that case but it does seriously age them in that case so i agree with you on the car side of things. Bikes you really dont want any weaknesses on the brake lines at all as you fall off motorbikes
Thanks for the great illustration. I changed the pads on my 2000 Nighthawk with minimal hassle. Probably saved myself $60-$80 which I can now use to buy new stuff for my bike! You guys help to build my confidence to do maintenance myself.
This guys is a very good teacher and does things the right way! Thanks for your help and keep doing good quality work without cutting corners as you mentioned. Way to go bro! Thanks again!
Zilla, I love how you explain everything but you make it look so simple, please continue what you do.
Question I know you said in the beginning of your video to don’t press the brake lever but I heard complete opposite once the caliper comes off to wedge a popsicle stick or an old brake pad in there crank that puppy all the way down to the Pistons exposed to get some 400 grit sandpaper around it to clean off the gunk then compress it I also have another question because after I did this a tiny piece of metal fell out of my brake caliper but I have no clue where it goes but everything went right back together perfectly fine
Got a new subscriber 😂 I've recently got into motorbikes and replaced my rear brake pads yesterday. No prior experience but seemed self explanatory. Had to take a quick ride out today for job interview and noticed the brake was sticking slightly on the way. I did not clean the pistons or push the pistons all the way back into the caliper housing and would never have thought to lube up the back of the pads or pad pins.... my caliper is slightly different to this one but I think I make have put the shim in slightly off aswell.
Now I know where I went wrong I'll go back tomorrow and redo it. Cheers for the vid
I will be replacing my front pads soon and will definitely be referring to this video in the near future. I genuinely appreciate your enthusiastic and knowledgeable walk-through.
Are ABS systems similar or is there anything to keep in mind?
This guy is brilliant. Great knowledge and really clear presentation. Always enjoy his videos.
Interesting question: Wouldn't you want to push the pistons out a little more and clean them up before putting them back all the way in to put the new pads ??
Next time, install the caliper first (finger tight) and then slide in the pads and install the shim and pins. Spin the wheel and gently pull the level to stop the wheel. (repeat about 3 or 4 times) on the last time hold the level while tightening down the caliper bolts.
Thx, great tutorial.. but after cleaning the callipers and putting back the new pads the front wheel feels really stiff now. When I lift the front wheel and spin it it stops immediately. What could go wrong? Everything looked ok, breaks dont squeek, they work when I use the break lever, this is the only problem I have, maybe too much break fluid...? I haven't tried to go for a short ride yet but maybe it will need just a short ride?
Do you have to use lube? All that's available in my area is petroleum based brake grease. So is it a preference thing or requirement? Also my bike does not have rubber slide pin boots. Advice please????
Lubricants are specific to the application, so you really need to refer to your factory service manual (or get a factory service manual and confirm the specification if you don't already have one). It's important to use what the manufacturer specifies. -DrewZilla
Great vid! Is it worth putting any anti seizeing paste on the bolts when putting the bike back together?
It can help, though we recommend you reference a service manual for the manufacturer recommendation. -DrewZilla
One question. Is it normal that brake calipers have a little freeplay when you tighten them on frame. I mean when you hold the caliper by hand and wable it, you can feel it wobble just slightly.
Quick question, I got a small amount of lube onto 1 of the brake pads by accident roughly the size of a fingerprint. Will this be an issue and do I need new brake pads because they are contaminated or can I just clean it off with brake cleaner.
Thanks.
Brake cleaner .... beware the first ride .... grease will burn off or run it for a Km and stop and wipe disk rotor with brake cleaner to get ride of the transfer of grease .... not a biggie.
OK this was fantastic and I am glad I saw this one. I have an Indian Roadmaster and have heard the EBC pads make a big difference. You were very clear and consice in how this is done. Thank you for saving me some cash.
avoid EBC now they are garbage they have cheapened out the brand big time over the last 5yr. SBS are the old EBC and the ones everyone here in UK, IOM and Ireland are using. The Double HHs EBC went from one of the best to one of the worst in one swoop so be warned.
I happen to have some PB white grease, could I use this in place of "brake grease"?
absolutely not. Dont even grease any part of bike brakes mate
Thanks! Is it possible to have, on the SAME disk brake, one pad more used (i.e. thinner) than his twin on the other side of the disk?
Yes. It's typically an indication that one of the pistons is sticking and may need to be serviced
Lemmy is the best! Such an informative person, thanks for the DIY videos man! You save a lot of people money
Right - that seems clear enough, now to have a go. Being a 68yr old woman from an admin background I don't have a lot of mechanical expereince, but I figure if I got the bike and the tools I should use them!
God Bless You Madam!!😁🙌👍
Just had a garage do my brakes and my front is perfect but my rear is worse now than the 5000mlie pads that had just been removed. Whats up with that??
Could be an issue with the rear pads sticking/dragging or perhaps you favor the rear more. -DrewZilla
@@RevZilla close turns out the rear disk is shot. And has ridges thanx anyway guys
Well that'll do it.
You are eloquent and precise. Thanks for saving me a few bobs and help me be a bigger man with my seldom used tools.
Which break pads are you using? It's impossible for me to get the Nissin Brake Pads myself because Nissin only sells it to authorized service stations.
+cybnitts We used EBC brake pads. -DrewZilla
Thank you for the straight forward video... I just did mine and they were much easier then I thought...
Sorry Lemmy but shouldn't you to lubricate the two sides of the Brakepads that have to glide back and forward?
I'm always wondering, how do motorcycle pads return. I changed pads on Camry, which would return the pads by a spring. Not the case on my Roadmaster, which might be the problem leading to brake drag. I will be on my 3rd pads with only 40K highway miles.
I watched the J&P Cycles video on changing pads before this and, this is so much more in depth.
Lemmy, love your videos, so helpful. I have a question. I have a 2007 Dyna Super Glide Custom and the owners manual describes changing the rear brake pads without removing the caliper. Does that sound right?
Thanks Lemmy! I lucked out because i have the same calipers on my bike. I noticed you didn't reuse the anti-squeal brackets on the new pads, was that just an accident?
Hey! I'm about to change my rear brake pads for the first time. I'm doing the rear first as a test, so if I fail I only lose 20% of my braking capacity (in theory, lol). I was wondering if I can use copper grease to lubricate the parts that you lubricated with special brake lubricant. I've seen copper grease used in some other videos and was wondering what you'd think about it!
Cheers!
Copper grease will also ruin the rubber sadly .. silicone all the way man :) around brakes at least
Howd it go?
How'd it go
@@justan-eli9262It went well, I did my back brakes to begin with. I figured if I somehow messed it up, I'd only lose 20% of my braking capacity since the front would still work. But I'm confident now in my ability to do a brake job. I finished it in 20 minutes or so, and I'm a two left handed mechanic. But I like to just try and play around with it, to get better at it and save some coin in the long run!
@@crazedexplorer See my answer below :)
Do most shops put new caliper bolts in, like the manuals say? or do they just reuse and re loctite them in the video?
Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir as you push the pistons in. There is the faint possibility they may overflow if the brake fluid has been topped as the pads wore.
You're absolutely right. Lemmy mentions this detail in his companion article as well: _"If you have been adding fluid, you may want to visit our how-to on servicing the hydraulic portion of your brakes and you may need to draw some of the fluid out of the reservoir before you start. Otherwise, a brake job may end up turning into a paint job, because spilled brake fluid is nasty to your paint."_ -DrewZilla
brake fluid levels indicate brake pad wear when the level drops. brake fluid shouldn't go away or you got bigger problems.
What type of grease are you using to lube the pin that hold the brakes. I have a 2015 roadking is Harley’s use different grease? they squeaking and I didn’t use grease in that sliding pin.
Hello Lemmy, after doing rear disc brake service the pedal stays down I ne,ed to manually lift it up, suggestions please. I have a 2002 1200 Sportster, thanks, Brian
Thanks. Just did this on a 1982 Honda Ascot FT500!!!! This worked perfectly.
Lemmy, great job as always. I just one question. What can be done in the end if the caliber pistons dont go to their place? I already pumped the brakes but still they dont brake... Thanks :)
Thank you for sharing the very detailed video, I'm a woman and I feel confident I could fix my own brakes if I needed to.
Hey +RevZilla
I tried to push the pistons back into the caliper like the video said, it was really hard to do so. Instead of what Lemmy did, I used a channel lock plier to push it back in, using a towel so it doesn't damage the pistons. It worked, but now I am unsure if I did something bad or not. Thanks!
+Richard Oda You just don't want to damage the piston by using a tool directly on it. You're probably ok though. -DrewZilla
You can losen the main cylender of fluid to release the pressure, this will help allow the pistons to move
Do we need to lock tide the break bolts or what parts is lock tide is best used on ?
We recommend you consult the factory service manual for your specific bike to know whether it's necessary. -DrewZilla
How important is the lube? And is pivot works waterproof high load bearing grease okay to use?
Hey Lemmy thanks it’s a helpfull video! But what can I do if I don’t find the required torque in the manual?
It will be in the Factory Service Manual, not necessarily the regular owner's manual. -DrewZilla
ebc double h sintered pads are like twice as fast stopping as regular sintered galfer pads that were an improvement on OEM pads on my VStrom
ebc are terrible now they have done a "one size fits all" on us and now the same pad fits about 10 more bikes because they ovulated the caliper pin holes enough to fit more fitments. They are the worst pad you can buy in the UK now for Track and fast road use they absolutely suck compared to what they were even 5yr ago. The EBC HHs the gap is too big between the abrasive chunks and they are basically two seperate small chunks rather than one large one with relief cuts. The older HHs were made correctly and had good lead & trailing edge robustness, the new ones are the worst of the worst. In the UK and IOM we fit SBS pads mate they are made in Denmark and basically are the old EBCs with a more advanced relief cut. For example the SBS sold as "evo sintered street performance" for fast road and track use are identicall backing and fitment size as the older proper EBC HHs but the abrasive side is the best quality sintered and pressed on fit and is a true sintered material and has been fully sintered to the backing plate as one big pad then the relief cuts ground out so theres no chance of material mismatches or bad bonding in the individual blocks. EBC are to be avoided now at all costs they are terrible
Thank you this great video. I normally ask a friend to do jobs like this but you made me realise how easy it is to do when shown correctly. now gonna check out some of your other vids. you saved me money too.
Thanks Lenny. Another great video. I thought I was subscribed, but wasn't. I am now. Between you, Ken Cordon, and Kevin Morris, I'm learning better ways to ride and service my own bike.
Yes, I'm learning. I started riding at 14 on a Honda Trail 90 that was given to me if I could fix everything on it. I did. That was in 1969.
Tip: Having a really hard time getting the (cleaned) pistons back in? Use a clamp with the old pads. Make sure not to crank it hard though, be very soft and insure the clamp isn't directly on the caliber/new pads.
how often should i be taking apart the calipers to clean them? thanks!
Car mechanic who has never done motorcycle brakes before. Kawi says to leave the caliper on and take the pads out from the top (2019 Z900ABS). They seem pretty serious about it because they used Torx bolts to hold the caliper on. (Everyone knows only certified professionals can remove Torx bolts).
I'm confident and possibly even competent enough to remove the calipers to change the pads, and give the whole system a good staring at. Thoughts?
That's perfectly fine, kawi just recommend removing from the top as it is the faster way to get the job done and if you're a car mechanic I'm sure you know the importance of book time vs actual work time when it comes to ringing up the bill at the dealer.
You can easily pull the caliper off, clean the dust off thoroughly, and replace the pads with the caliper in your hand. That said, on a bike that new a full inspection is not really required.
I hope that helps!
-Zack
Thanks Lammy, excellent teaching and job well done. Learned new things. Charles from Toronto.
i fall in category 3.. for whatever reason this video was suggested to me by youtube, and to further procrastinate doing other things (like cleaning my house) i started watching this :)
make sure to torque the caliper mount bolts with the brake lever pulled in to make sure pads, calipers and rotors are properly aligned
I do love how they take their time explaining everything.
You dont grease the back of pads mate especially not for racing use. The pad backing is made to allow for free movement between it and the brake caliper piston skirts and even allows for the braking gas to float the pad temporarily when your pads are red hot im not joking thats part of the engineering behind pads both SBS & EBC have the tech & data sheets on it if you need to see for yourself. Another thing lubing the back of the pads does is hold dirt in and if you ever wash them with even a grease remover or proper traffic film remover you will wash the silicone lube out of the pads and onto the discs (rotors for Americans) which is fine if you are doing a thorough wash of the entire front end but isnt ideal either way. The manufacturers and race teams suggest the only part you ever lubricate should be the caliper pin silco lubed then wiped off by cloth so there is no thickness and this is only to be done if the pin is in bad condition or is not being thoroughly cleaned between pad changes in race use. Good vid though and another thing to mention is to wash out your bungs on the disc so the outer disc actually floats correctly. if all your disc bungs have caked up you will defo get overheating and wear on the leading edge of the pads. Every set of pads ive done where the leading edge is overheating or wearing fast has been because the bungs on the disc werent letting the outer disc surface float. You also want to unscrew the cap on the brake rez when reseting the pads so the diafram isnt fighting you from pushing the pistons back in and so both sides have identical pressure when you reseal the cap, technically they will equalise over time but the problem is you dont have time when racing, another way to do it is slighly undo the bleeder as that prevents mucky fluid being sucked back up the lines so thats why its drilled into me to do everything correctly every time. I raced R6 cup back in early 2000s and done several bike mechanic jobs mostly race outfits here in Scotland alongside my Usual job as boat builder and marine mech. Hope this helps
Awesome detail explained in plain English resulting in thorough understanding and installs confidence!
With the wheel on the ground, or off the ground, when spinning the wheel sounds of the pads dragging on the rotor. Is that supposed to do that?
Yes, that's completely normal. The pads are in touch with the disc all the time so it is normal that they produce a dragging sound.
Is it okay to use copper anti-seize on the backplates of the brake pads?
Anything tip wise for drum front and back back brakes oon my Honda elite ch250
Can I ask what happens when you pump the caliper out after pads are out ??
Do you have to bleed the brake system after you install the pads?
That lube on the back of pad will just squeeze away to nothing with pressure? But I think I have a squeal shim on my bike
If I replace the pads in my scooter but my wheel is kind of " stuck " what do you suggest to do ?
Can someone tell me why you might have to Rebuild the caliper if you squeeze the lever when it's not connected to the brake disc.?😱
One of the best ,professional n detailed video i have ever seen ,Lemmy you're the BEST.
Great job,i may call you some time ,if i need help with my Suzuki Gsxr 600.
Thanks
Hey! I have a question. I recently bought new rear brake pads for my ER6N 2011, and while trying to mount them, I noticed that my old pads had no 'holes' in them and the single piston just left one giant stain. Now, with my new ones there are 2 holes on the back (possible for 2 pistons, I don't know). Does one piston still pull those two holes on the brake pad vacuum, or do I need ones without those holes?
I just had my front disc brake and pads changed to new ones by a mechanic. I didn't pay atention to exactly how much the wheel could spin (before the change of pads and disc) when i would just try and spin it when on the centre stand. But now i notice that it barely spins. Maybe 1/2 a turn when i give it a spin with my hand. I'm thinking the pads are touching the disc? Is that normal or should i adjust the pads so the wheel can spin freely? Thanks!
That's normal and should subside over time. Both the new pads and new brake disc are slightly thicker than the old, worn disc and pads, so they're going to rub a bit at first. -DrewZilla
+RevZilla thanks a Lot :)
What about replacing rear brake pads ,do you need to remove the rear slilencer
Great video, thanks. On backside of my old pads were attached these thin metal grills which I forgot to take off and put on my new pads. I saw you did not put them there either. Are they must? Thanks
They aren't a must, but they can help reduce rattling or squealing. If you ride the bike and notice that the pads are making a lot of noise, then it might be worth going back in to attach the metal grills. -DrewZilla
RevZilla many thanks
LOL is lemmy italian? he talks with his hands as much as anthony.
Do you not recommend light or medium loctite on the caliper bolts? I have had my shake loose, so i have been using light loctite.
Good Job Lemmy.
LAWRENCE HARRIS safety wire
Just changed my front pads but after compressing the caliper pistons and putting everything back together, the brake lever is staying soft no matter how many times I pump it keeps fully depressing. Went to check the master cylinder and stripped a screw 😑 need help...