+Gerry Adams Thanks for watching. I think there are still plenty of people wanting to learn this as they take on new projects. I'm happy to continue receiving comments on it and replying to them.
Finally got spray can (MNM3) for my R1. Gonna spray those scratches from last lowside. I've watched "few" tutorials how to paint with can and this is first which mentions difference for metallic colours. 👌🏻
I'm 68 and have been doing furniture refinishing for many years. I actually learned a couple of important tips from your video. Thank you......very informative.
This instruction is right on the money. After several horrid attempts, I watched this video (and following the advice) I was able to get a passable coat/paint job on a Stanley exterior metal door. Bravo Brad!
"if your stroke is 3 inches, don't take that in a weird way" .... BAHHAA !! I am about to spray paint a toolbox pink for makeup .... . thanks for this helpful video...and the chuckle as well .... lol
After all the rattle can paint sites I’ve watched. YOU are the only one I watched that explains the problem I have and WHY it’s happening. For me you’re very informative. Now I know two things I must do. Practice, buy better paint. Last one I figured out.
Thanks. I'm glad at least a couple people found that one funny. I added a subtle joke at the end of one of my other videos and nobody seems to have noticed.
Thanks! Not having the money to have a professional paint job doesn't mean we are lazy or want to drive a rust bucket. I'm really gratefully for your time & thoughtfulness! I was hurt @ wk. & after surgery & days in the hospital I was forced to retire & pretty much screwed!
Another thing that will help with getting an even coat over a large area is first make sure it's not windy and second the temperature. If it's colder then it helps with keeping a wet edge longer however that means you have to wait longer between coats so patience is key.
You are the spray paint KING! I have learned so much from you. I like the fact that you not only tell us how to do it pacifically you also explain why. Then you also tell us extra need to know information You include final destination accidental nightmare mistakes that could happen during the process. Thank you for sharing your knowledge & expertise on spray can painting. Gratitude I appreciate you.
Thank you so much for posting this video. 👍🏿 I used your method on hifi equipment that I'm refurbishing and my work came out so much better than my original test sprays. Sending you & your family positive vibes 💫 from a viewer in the UK 🙌🏿
I'm starting to take on projects that involves painting objects. Took an auto body course in school years ago but this is what I needed to brush up on my 3in strokes.. loved this vid, very informative n slight humor man. Oh.. And also timeless. Thanks!
It depends on what finish you are going for. If I was just painting a guitar black with cans, I would apply 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of black (matte), and 3 coats of clear. Then I would asses whether or not to sand and clear again. With a metallic finish like this, I would put one or two coats of the metallic over the color (black in this case) before the clear. That is for enamels of course. If I were using cans of lacquer, I would apply more coats, but would try to keep them a bit thinner.
Glad I watched this video. I've never been quite able to get a really good finish with cans - would generally much rather use a roller, but I'll give it a go with these things in mind. Great video, thank you.
Logged in just to say thanks. " ) Repainted a counter top table using Rust-Oleum's Ultra cover and your tips. Gets a little tricky extending beyond your normal reach and switching to a fresh finger. But it turned out great. " ) Continuing to move that wet spot with over lap, is what did it. Go Brad!
Thanks; I'm glad you found the video useful. If you're working with long surfaces, try carefully walking along with spraying. That way you don't need to reach so far. Also, if you're going to be spraying big stuff or lots of stuff, it really helps to practice spraying with your thumbs. They are stronger, so you can spray longer without getting super sore. I alternate between my two index fingers and thumbs when I'm doing big jobs.
Thank you! This is exactly the sort of video I needed. I plan to spray paint our letterbox tomorrow as it no longer matches our newly painted house and figured a spray can was an easy way to do it... but I have NEVER used one haha! Very helpful tips, including the cleaning of the can tip. That never occurred to me. Awesome work!
Wish I would've watched this video years ago. I was never pushing the wet bead up consistently until I figured it out on my own just this past Saturday. But this video explained why I got some rough areas, now it makes sense after watching this. Also the tip of having it 50% on the next pass. My current project is a metallic so like you mentioned it's not as forgiving. I have some rough areas still but I'm not sanding them down, I'm hoping the clear will fill them up, I'll find out thos weekend. Thanks again!
I know this is 10 years old, but still helpful. I'm a military scale model builder who doesn't use an airbrush, so it's rattle cans and paint brushes for me. My problem is that I think I get closer and closer to the model at times when I'm spraying and don't even realize it until it's too late. Luckily, Tamiya paints are forgiving, but non-model spray paints like Krylon and Rustoleum are not. Also, the heat and humidity here in GA can be a challenge since I do my painting in the garage. But I've learned to store my paints inside and I let my model dry inside too where it's a lot cooler. Thanks for all your videos.
Here I am in 2023. FINALLY got to the cutting of rust off and welding the daily/project and this helped a BUNCH on prinering the daily/project Miata. For paint I’ve got a real gun. Thanks a million!
Yea I used the metallic paint, tried to do a search of it on youtube and couldn't find any demonstrations. Not untill I was done with my project NOW I found this video lol Wish you would have put "Metallic Blue" Somewhere in the description or title. Would have been easy to find this video :) The metallic color usually never resembles the cap so I was taking a gamble when I selected this color. I was happy :).. Cool looking blue, but wish I saw this video before. This metallic blue takes a lot more patience but I like it because it's like satin/flash black the way it dries. But damn it takes a lot more paint because like you said "It's partially transparent" Thanks fr the video
WOW!!!! I'm the type of person that ALWAYS goes to youtube first. Never crossed my mind that metallic paints would be different..AND then came to youtube after the fact that I painted and OOPS! TO MY SURPRISE there you are with a video using the exact same DARN blue metallic paint! Aghhhh! Anywho..Thank you very much for the video! I'll try again. 😁
I hope it goes well for you. If you get this technique mastered you shouldn't have to dust over anything after, but it's a good trick to know. Doing this in both directions should be sufficient to get you a nice even coating.
Hahahha.. wonder how many went to that comment after he pointed it out 😄 👍 I wasn't even thinking that until he said don't take it in a wierd way. Bahahah.. people have sick minds lol. I'm a girl so my stroke sucks. Take that any way you want bahaha. Joke a.
You’re a LIFESAVER. My ex boyfriends mom is about to come pick me up to spray paint a filing cabinet and I guess she just expects me to know how to do that??😂 I do paint a lot but I’ve never really worked with spray paint so thanks so much you’re literally a godsend
I Learn something new today thank you It makes sense to push the wet forward before if you We’re pulling it back it would leave behind dry overspray... thank you 😊 I totally never thought of that when painting again thank you 😊
great video...here is a complete guide for painting with spray cans... 1.SURFACE PREPARATION surface preparation is almost 50% of the paint job...any paint job...and why is that??BECAUSE PAINT THICKNESS CAN NOT HIDE ANY MAJOR OR EVEN MARGINAL SURFACE IMPERFECTIONS... a.if your surface is in really good condition proceed to light sanding and primer... b.if its not then use filler or surfacer to give the proper smoothness and uniformity 2.PRIMER primer not only gives the basecoat something to adhere to....it acts like an eraser for the previous paintjobs...now its like you have a totally blank white page to fill it with your drawings...!! after you put the primer ...always sand the surface...use 400-600 grit sand paper...not under 400 cause its coarce..not above 600 cause the base coat will not adhere easily...i believe the best is the 600...CLEAN THE SURFACE VERY WELL BEFORE BASECOAT!!! 3.BASE COAT when you use base coat follow the product instructions...PEOPLE THAT MAKE THE PRODUCT HAVE SPENT HOURS AND HOURS TO FIND THE CORRECT APPLICATION METHOD...AFTER ALL THEY WANT YOU TO ACHIEVE THE PERFECT RESULT AND BUY THE SAME PRODUCT NEXT TIME YOU WANT TO PAINT SOMETHING..if you dont know the 20 cm distance to keep from the object...stretch your fingers as far apart as you can and the distance between the thumb and the little finger should be your MINIMUM distance... shake the can well for 2 minutes then spray on a test surace until you get a uniform spray pattern.. if you have a large flat surface use the ''spray gun'' method by overlaping its pass by 40% little less little more ....well maybe 40 is a bit too much....if you have a round or difficult object use the valve as a ''push on'' button giving little strokes...the ideal if u have a round object is to have a tray to turn it and keep the spray can steady...CAUSE EVERY TIME YOU RELEASE THE TRIGGER-VALVE AND MOVE TO A NEW POSITION YOUR EYES COULD EASILY MISS A SPOT THAT IS NOT COVERED spray a fist very light and quick coat ...just to make the surface tacky ...and then 2 good coats...that is more than enough..wait 5-10 minutes between the coats or better follow the manufacturer instructions about time and spray pattern!!! NEVER SAND BASE COAT!!! 4.CLEARCOAT you can wait between basecoat and clearcoat or even leave it over night but you must protect the basecoat from dust and debris...because all that will be trapped in your clearcoat...just as the basecoat...a little light quick first application to become tacky and then 2 good heavy ones...the clearcoat is much more forgivable...avoid dripping because removing with a razor blade or other equipment is NOT as easy as it looks..!!! and now you have the final result that is nowhere near the professional job in a workshop!!THE ATOMIZATION OF THE PARTICLES THAT A PROFFESIONAL GUN PROVIDES LIKE IWATA SATA DEVILBISS IS EXCEPTIONAL FOR PRODUCING A SMOOTH GLASS LIKE FINISH.....THE ANSWER TO THAT IS....WET SANDING BUFFING POLISHING...BUT FIRST LET IT DRY COMPLETELY FOR DAYS...NOT HOURS ESPECIALLY WITH THE ''USUAL'' CLEARCOAT SPRAY CANS ...a good indication is that most if not all the varnish odor-smell will be gone!!! start wet sanding...with plain water or soapy water...soapy water JUST provides better lubrication and nothing more..sand in one direction although i havent noticed and major difference with the little circular ones..every method has advantages and disadvantages...if your paint job is fairly good start with 800-1000 all the way up to 2000 no need to go further...probably the best is 1000-1500-2000 try to produce a uniform haze all over the surface... and now that you did it worse...its time for the buffing wheel or if the surface is small just a clean cloth and a buffing compound...if you go all the way up to 2000 GRIT DO NOT USE A COARCE BUFFING COMPOUND...use a medium or a fine....you dont need to use all three steps coarse ..medium..fine especially if you are not a pro cause you can damage your work easily with the coarse one!in fact use only fine compound for two reasons... 1.when you go all the way up to 2000 grit fine compound is descent enough to produce an almost flawless surface without visible marks even in black color and under lamp... 2.THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE IS THIS...THE CLEARCOAT VARNISH ON THE SPRAY CAN THAT YOU NORMALLY GET FROM THE HARDWARE STORES IS SOFT AND NOWHERE NEAR THE ROCK SOLID 2 PART CLEARCOAT WITH THE HARDENER...SO IT IS VERY EASY ESPECIALLY IF YOU USE A BUFFING WHEEL NOT A CLOTH TO PENETRATE ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE BASECOAT AND REALLY DESTROY YOUR WORK!!! FINAL STEP...now you must have a really shiny piece that you are proud of...use some proper polishing compound and a clean rag and thats all...!!! ALWAYS WEAR MASK AND ALL THE OTHER EQUIPMENT...I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL AND MY EXPERIENCE IS NOT SO GREAT.!!!!CHEE(R)S!!!
+GIANNIS LYMPEROPOYLOS not all spray cans are the same, so the same information and techniques don't apply to all of them. The coating method is consistent, but for example, in some cases you should sand the base coat.
sorry but I thought and STILL BELIEVE you should never sand the base coat if you apply it properly...the clearcoat acts like a magnifying lens and any sanding imperfections will be in the final product!!...but you are a pro so i believe you know what you are talking about...anyway... i forgot to mention that if you DO NOTwant a high gloss or even a semi gloss finish..... WITH MATTE PAINT AND MATTE CLEARCOAT-VARNISH...YOU REALLY DONT HAVE TO DO ANYTHING OF THE SANDING BUFFING...YOU WILL ACHIEVE ALMOST PERFECT RESULTS WITH MINIMUM EFFORT...THIS COMES FROM MY EXPERIENCE PAINTING 2 OBJECTS...ONE WAS A HELMET AND THE RESULTS WAS ''PRO QUALITY''!!! and yes you are right about the cans but i mentioned it....follow the manufacturers guide....although from buying and testing experience...this method is about the same!!! and always remember my golden rule on sanding....totally independently from the material you are sanding...metal wood plastic plexi...YOU CAN REMOVE ALL THE MATERIAL YOU WANT..EVEN LEAVING NOTHING TO WORK ON...BUT YOU CAN NOT ADD MATERIAL TO YOUR PIECE...OR AT LEAST IT IS VERY DIFFICULT...SO START UPSIDE DOWN...YOU THINK THAT 220 GRIT IS OK?START FROM 320 OR 400...IF THE WORKING PROGRESS IS TOO SLOW THEN YOU CAN MOVE DOWN TO 280-220....AND ALL THE WAY UP TO YOUR PREFERENCE....!!!!
Other tips, get your own youtube channel. Why in the world do people come on someone's youtube channel and start spouting their own stuff? Giannis, open a youtube channel and if you're that good, we'll all check out your info.
This was great. I was doing some touch up on my airplane and messed it all up because of my stupidity. After learning from you I was able to correct my errors and do further spray painting on the horizontal stabilizer. Thanks so much!
Brad Angove "Shaking"... "Paint cans".... Couldn't resist. Anywho, your videos have helped a ton with a whole plethora of different projects I've been working on. Thank you so much.
I think it's harder to cover a larger area Coverage area was 6' x 3.' Like you said the metallic is translucent. So it was hard to find the balance mixed w/ the wind. a good thing it was only an outside work table made not for perfection. But it came out better than a bona fide rusted table. Thanks again
+Zac Pini So, that didn't make sense. I think you might be missing some words there champ. Regardless, I suggest you leave it there. Remember, this is my page, and I'm not in the mood for ignorance and idiocy right now.
Oh, this is great. UA-cam just automatically muted you haha. I didn't even have to do anything. I guess I must have checked off the loser filter and forgotten about it. Feel free to reply; just note that it won't show up haha. You might be better off sending me a direct message; my mood has changed and now I feel like laughing at you for a while, so hit me up.
My neighbor needed help with the barrel as I wouldn't have touched it as I thought it looked beautiful. She wanted it all one color and then was going to stencil stars onto it. I stripped a rack of paint (metal) and plan to "try" multi coloring it with blue/mauve if I can manage. Thanks for responding.
Having prep'd a pair of carbon motorcycle silencers I'm looking to apply some clear lacquer by spray can. I've little experience in spray painting but your video here is so clear and informative that I feel ready now to get these silencers finished. Thank you!
Hi Brad, another great video for us inexperienced folk! Thank you for another very informative video, you are a very good instructor as you describe why the things that happen which makes your videos the most informative. Keep up the great work! I look forward to future videos!
Wish I had found this video BEFORE I started spray painting my metal enclosures for guitar pedals .... I have been sanding down with fine grit sandpaper and wiping down with Naphtha between coats but I should have practiced on a large board like you have first. Thanks for the infos!
This is pretty good, I'm going to use crystal acrylic sealer spray for my painting once it is dry, but I think that even though it's clear and not paint color, these are still good tips to go by. Thank you for this video. Greetings from Punta Arenas, Chile
+S. Pérez García Greetings. If you're trying to get an even coat of the sealer, which should in turn give you an even sheen if any, I think you'll find this technique useful. Thank you for watching.
Thank you for this video! I was so frustrated with the blotchy shiny/matt spotting on a desk I was spraying gloss black. I needed to SEE how to do it. This works!
I think you just solved a problem I keep having! When using spray paint on metal furniture, I keep getting some shiny places and some matte/rough spots. From this video, I'm thinking I'm not overlapping enough (or honestly, at all). Can't wait to see if that is what is messing me up.
Learned a good tip there after decades of my first aerosol paint job. ( the overlap method I have never done ). I'm respraying my Nissan NV200 back bumper today and hope it turns out a showroom finish ? Thanks Brad. Bill - Cornwall, England.
On the new cans you can always pull off the nozzle and stick it on your WD40 can to clear it, or just blast some air through it from your compressor and stick it back on your can gently without getting more paint into it. Great video.
By the time I turn to video tutorials, I'm pulling my hair out over a project. Thank you for giving all the details I've been looking for without making me feel like a moron in the process.
I had to start over, Im getting better though. I think the small body repair turned out well, but if I knew of the cut out a hole in the cardboard metbod, or cover the areas that did not need painted, my mistake would have been on a smaller scale. Overall Im more confident from learning, I feel better.
That's why my 2014 American Deluxe Strat is a little stripey when the light hits it at a certain angle, but when I run my finger over it, it's not bumpy.
Hey Brad this video was VERY helpful for me! Im going to paint two of my basses with a metallic finish and this gave me a good idea on how to do it! Thanks alot!
Hey Brad, thanks for sharing these great tutorials. I’m learning a lot. If you have the time, I have a few questions regarding high heat spray paint. I’m building an Ugly Drum Smoker out of a 55-gallon steel drum/barrel. The build is simple & straightforward. I’m concerned about the paint process. No experience with spray paint. The drum will be sandblasted to bare metal inside & out. The inside will be left unpainted. I plan on using Rustoleum High Heat Ultra with two-tone color scheme of semi-gloss black and semi-gloss aged copper. Label recommends No Primer. A guy that’s painted many drum smokers (w/VHT spray cans), said he found black as a base coat worked well under gold and copper top coats, giving it a deeper, richer color. After proper surface prep, I plan to paint everything with Rustoleum High Heat Ultra flat black as a base coat/primer. Then I plan to use black semi-gloss as top coat on parts to be black, and the copper semi-gloss on parts to be copper. Am I approaching this correctly? Any advice or tips you can offer is greatly appreciated. Norman
Hi Norman. Yes, I think your approach makes sense. Full disclosure - I don't work with high heat paint. But, what you're telling me makes sense, and I would be quite worried about using a normal primer on something like that.
Brad Angove Wow B, I was surprised to get such a fast reply. Thanks. Btw, I subscribed. Do you recommend using a trigger type spray can adapter? I haven’t seen you use one yet.
Thank you for your painting tutorials they are very helpful as I was planning to do a home project on a guitar I sent your sandblast video and a couple others thanks again
I could've used this a few years ago when I was struggling with finishing a guitar and also a car bumper. I'm going to have to watch your previous vids for more nuggets. BTW great finish on Darrell's LP guitar kit.
I hold further away and go slower cause up closer you tend to end up where the atomized paint can end up on your finger tip you are using to spray and that build up will drip onto your surface. Also a good tip is never use beyond 70% of a can. After that it tends to act up. Getting a good paint job all relies on preparation, patience and experience with the medium used (rattle can in this case). Everyone will screw up the first time or if you rush it. I just finished a spoiler for my car and took the clear all the way to 5000 grit. It took a lot of time and patience but pays off with a mirror like finish. Anyway good video.
evilcowboy I never have trouble with atomized paint getting on my hand. Are you sure your finger isn't hanging over the tip a bit? Maybe try angling the can. If you are careful about shaking the can properly right from the first time you use it, and you keep your tips/nozzles cleaned properly, you should be able to use the whole can without any problems. If you're painting horizontally when the can is almost empty you could have some trouble, but aside from that you should be fine. With a proper polishing system you don't need to sand beyond about 2000 for a mirror finish, but I also go up to 5000 because it makes polishing faster and easier.
Brad Angove Hey I like your video, especially the ideas in the second half about spray paint a car . Something I also found helpfull for car spray painting tutorial is Moorack Car Spray Miracle - search google if you want
The video is 4 years old and you are still replying to people. Thanks a million
+Gerry Adams Thanks for watching. I think there are still plenty of people wanting to learn this as they take on new projects. I'm happy to continue receiving comments on it and replying to them.
Brad's a good guy! His tips & tricks have helped me A LOT!
Finally got spray can (MNM3) for my R1. Gonna spray those scratches from last lowside. I've watched "few" tutorials how to paint with can and this is first which mentions difference for metallic colours. 👌🏻
6 years nkw
7 years now
I'm 68 and have been doing furniture refinishing for many years. I actually learned a couple of important tips from your video. Thank you......very informative.
Ok but stay away from kids
turned 69 two years ago eh? congrats man
@@kukkosoosi ?? This old man is thanking this man. Why you saying that is makes no sense.
@@pngCOATS hes projecting himself onto others 😮
This instruction is right on the money. After several horrid attempts, I watched this video (and following the advice) I was able to get a passable coat/paint job on a Stanley exterior metal door.
Bravo Brad!
Glad you found it helpful.
"if your stroke is three inches,....don't take that in the weird way" fuck that made me laugh
Haha oops.
2p02 haha me too
me three haha
ikr
Hahaha
"if your stroke is 3 inches, don't take that in a weird way" .... BAHHAA !! I am about to spray paint a toolbox pink for makeup .... . thanks for this helpful video...and the chuckle as well .... lol
You're welcome. I'm glad you got a laugh out of that. Don't forget to sand down the existing finish on your toolbox before you paint it.
Maybe you yourself could can do a video on how to apply an even coat of makeup : ) By the way it's been five years, how are you !
@@harrickvharrick3957 5 years..Oh my god, Lets see if he still replies.
I assumed that comment was directed at her haha. I haven’t got the foggiest clue how to apply an even coat of makeup.
@@BradAngove Hey there, Your video helped me a lot, Brad. It's amazing that you still replies to us after 5 years. Thanks a bunch.
After all the rattle can paint sites I’ve watched. YOU are the only one I watched that explains the problem I have and WHY it’s happening. For me you’re very informative. Now I know two things I must do. Practice, buy better paint. Last one I figured out.
I’m glad I could help.
With the way you showed the metallic, it gave a very good view of chasing the wet edge. Nice job.
Thank you. I’m glad that camera angle worked out.
Thanks. I'm glad at least a couple people found that one funny. I added a subtle joke at the end of one of my other videos and nobody seems to have noticed.
I have been researching how to paint with rattle cans for a few weeks for a project I am working on. This was extremely helpful. Thanks!
Glad to hear it!
Thanks! Not having the money to have a professional paint job doesn't mean we are lazy or want to drive a rust bucket. I'm really gratefully for your time & thoughtfulness!
I was hurt @ wk. & after surgery & days in the hospital I was forced to retire & pretty much screwed!
Sounds like you should perhaps consider retaining litigation counsel.
Another thing that will help with getting an even coat over a large area is first make sure it's not windy and second the temperature. If it's colder then it helps with keeping a wet edge longer however that means you have to wait longer between coats so patience is key.
You are the spray paint KING! I have learned so much from you. I like the fact that you not only tell us how to do it pacifically you also explain why. Then you also tell us extra need to know information You include final destination accidental nightmare mistakes that could happen during the process. Thank you for sharing your knowledge & expertise on spray can painting. Gratitude I appreciate you.
I’m glad to hear you’ve found my stuff helpful. Thank you for watching.
You're a great spray painter - I've used most every paint medium there is and I still find spray cans the most difficult to work with. Great job.
+Nick Doe Thank you Nick. I'm pretty useless with a paintbrush, but I've been using spray paint a long time.
Thank you so much for posting this video. 👍🏿
I used your method on hifi equipment that I'm refurbishing and my work came out so much better than my original test sprays.
Sending you & your family positive vibes 💫 from a viewer in the UK 🙌🏿
I’m glad to hear it worked well. Cheers.
I'm starting to take on projects that involves painting objects. Took an auto body course in school years ago but this is what I needed to brush up on my 3in strokes.. loved this vid, very informative n slight humor man. Oh.. And also timeless. Thanks!
Glad you like it.
It depends on what finish you are going for. If I was just painting a guitar black with cans, I would apply 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of black (matte), and 3 coats of clear. Then I would asses whether or not to sand and clear again.
With a metallic finish like this, I would put one or two coats of the metallic over the color (black in this case) before the clear.
That is for enamels of course. If I were using cans of lacquer, I would apply more coats, but would try to keep them a bit thinner.
Glad I watched this video. I've never been quite able to get a really good finish with cans - would generally much rather use a roller, but I'll give it a go with these things in mind. Great video, thank you.
Glad I could help.
Logged in just to say thanks. " ) Repainted a counter top table using Rust-Oleum's Ultra cover and your tips. Gets a little tricky extending beyond your normal reach and switching to a fresh finger. But it turned out great. " ) Continuing to move that wet spot with over lap, is what did it. Go Brad!
Thanks; I'm glad you found the video useful. If you're working with long surfaces, try carefully walking along with spraying. That way you don't need to reach so far. Also, if you're going to be spraying big stuff or lots of stuff, it really helps to practice spraying with your thumbs. They are stronger, so you can spray longer without getting super sore. I alternate between my two index fingers and thumbs when I'm doing big jobs.
Thank you! This is exactly the sort of video I needed. I plan to spray paint our letterbox tomorrow as it no longer matches our newly painted house and figured a spray can was an easy way to do it... but I have NEVER used one haha! Very helpful tips, including the cleaning of the can tip. That never occurred to me. Awesome work!
Glad to hear you found it helpful.
Wish I would've watched this video years ago. I was never pushing the wet bead up consistently until I figured it out on my own just this past Saturday. But this video explained why I got some rough areas, now it makes sense after watching this. Also the tip of having it 50% on the next pass. My current project is a metallic so like you mentioned it's not as forgiving. I have some rough areas still but I'm not sanding them down, I'm hoping the clear will fill them up, I'll find out thos weekend. Thanks again!
I hope it goes well for you.
Remember to clear your tip guys if you plan going back in later.
Old is gold .. the statement truly suits this video. Straight forward and to the point. Much appreciated ❤
Thanks; I’m glad you found it helpful.
I like the fact you're demonstrating the two colors I need to use
+Tactical Derpy that's very fortuitous.
BTW, used your advice and turned out great
I know this is 10 years old, but still helpful. I'm a military scale model builder who doesn't use an airbrush, so it's rattle cans and paint brushes for me. My problem is that I think I get closer and closer to the model at times when I'm spraying and don't even realize it until it's too late. Luckily, Tamiya paints are forgiving, but non-model spray paints like Krylon and Rustoleum are not. Also, the heat and humidity here in GA can be a challenge since I do my painting in the garage. But I've learned to store my paints inside and I let my model dry inside too where it's a lot cooler. Thanks for all your videos.
Glad I could help
Great video dude, thanks so much.
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it.
Here I am in 2023. FINALLY got to the cutting of rust off and welding the daily/project and this helped a BUNCH on prinering the daily/project Miata. For paint I’ve got a real gun. Thanks a million!
Glad I could help
Yea I used the metallic paint, tried to do a search of it on youtube and couldn't find any demonstrations. Not untill I was done with my project NOW I found this video lol
Wish you would have put "Metallic Blue" Somewhere in the description or title. Would have been easy to find this video :)
The metallic color usually never resembles the cap so I was taking a gamble when I selected this color. I was happy :).. Cool looking blue, but wish I saw this video before.
This metallic blue takes a lot more patience but I like it because it's like satin/flash black the way it dries. But damn it takes a lot more paint because like you said "It's partially transparent"
Thanks fr the video
+Mochaka Boom I'm glad you like the video. That's for letting me know about searching it. I will add that to the tags for posterity.
Trump 2020 👌🏻
WOW!!!! I'm the type of person that ALWAYS goes to youtube first. Never crossed my mind that metallic paints would be different..AND then came to youtube after the fact that I painted and OOPS! TO MY SURPRISE there you are with a video using the exact same DARN blue metallic paint! Aghhhh! Anywho..Thank you very much for the video! I'll try again. 😁
I hope it helps for the next one haha.
His biceps though...
U bi sex Paul
@The Anti Christ lol too funny!!!
Colby Dipsen LMFAO
@Colby Dipsen LMFAO!!
U need arms like that for 3 inch strokes...lol
I hope it goes well for you. If you get this technique mastered you shouldn't have to dust over anything after, but it's a good trick to know. Doing this in both directions should be sufficient to get you a nice even coating.
6 inch strokes. I always have a great finish. lol
I'm not going to ask you what you spray...
🤣
Hahahha.. wonder how many went to that comment after he pointed it out 😄 👍 I wasn't even thinking that until he said don't take it in a wierd way. Bahahah.. people have sick minds lol. I'm a girl so my stroke sucks. Take that any way you want bahaha. Joke a.
@@1finnigin I like the way you think lol 😂
Short, sweet and to the point. This is exactly what I needed to know. Thanks for taking the time to put it out there.
Glad you found it helpful
I guess my new bicep work out is shaking paint cans. Dude is jacked
My first attempt looks okay in the low light, but very pleasing in brighter light. I'm pleased with it. Your tips helped! Thank you
I’m glad to hear it. Thanks for watching.
"If your stroke is 3 inches dont take tht in a weird way" 😭🤣🤣🤣 im deaddds
You’re a LIFESAVER. My ex boyfriends mom is about to come pick me up to spray paint a filing cabinet and
I guess she just expects me to know how to do that??😂 I do paint a lot but
I’ve never really worked with spray paint so thanks so much you’re literally a godsend
Glad I could help
@@BradAngove you definitely did! It ended up looking pretty good
heh, 3 inch stroke.
Lol that's all I got out of the video! 😂😂
Q_Q It's not a joke if it's true.
I
Learn something new today thank you
It makes sense to push the wet forward before if you We’re pulling it back it would leave behind dry overspray... thank you 😊 I totally never thought of that when painting again thank you
😊
"If you're stroke is 3 inches" 😂😂😂 I caught it once you said dont take that in a weird way lol
Thanks to you, I finished a project, spray painting for the first time and was relatively successful :)
Glad to hear it.
3inch stroke......
I'm so glad you have these online. I'm going to have fun painting from now on! Thanks again..
Glad to hear it.
Thanks Brad very helpful tips.
You're welcome. I'm glad they were useful.
Great video!
The painting sequence 5:30 onward is one of the most satisfying things I've ever seen
great video...here is a complete guide for painting with spray cans...
1.SURFACE PREPARATION
surface preparation is almost 50% of the paint job...any paint job...and why is that??BECAUSE PAINT THICKNESS CAN NOT HIDE ANY MAJOR OR EVEN MARGINAL SURFACE IMPERFECTIONS...
a.if your surface is in really good condition proceed to light sanding and primer...
b.if its not then use filler or surfacer to give the proper smoothness and uniformity
2.PRIMER
primer not only gives the basecoat something to adhere to....it acts like an eraser for the previous paintjobs...now its like you have a totally blank white page to fill it with your drawings...!!
after you put the primer ...always sand the surface...use 400-600 grit sand paper...not under 400 cause its coarce..not above 600 cause the base coat will not adhere easily...i believe the best is the 600...CLEAN THE SURFACE VERY WELL BEFORE BASECOAT!!!
3.BASE COAT
when you use base coat follow the product instructions...PEOPLE THAT MAKE THE PRODUCT HAVE SPENT HOURS AND HOURS TO FIND THE CORRECT APPLICATION METHOD...AFTER ALL THEY WANT YOU TO ACHIEVE THE PERFECT RESULT AND BUY THE SAME PRODUCT NEXT TIME YOU WANT TO PAINT SOMETHING..if you dont know the 20 cm distance to keep from the object...stretch your fingers as far apart as you can and the distance between the thumb and the little finger should be your MINIMUM distance...
shake the can well for 2 minutes then spray on a test surace until you get a uniform spray pattern..
if you have a large flat surface use the ''spray gun'' method by overlaping its pass by 40% little less little more ....well maybe 40 is a bit too much....if you have a round or difficult object use the valve as a ''push on'' button giving little strokes...the ideal if u have a round object is to have a tray to turn it and keep the spray can steady...CAUSE EVERY TIME YOU RELEASE THE TRIGGER-VALVE AND MOVE TO A NEW POSITION YOUR EYES COULD EASILY MISS A SPOT THAT IS NOT COVERED
spray a fist very light and quick coat ...just to make the surface tacky ...and then 2 good coats...that is more than enough..wait 5-10 minutes between the coats or better follow the manufacturer instructions about time and spray pattern!!!
NEVER SAND BASE COAT!!!
4.CLEARCOAT
you can wait between basecoat and clearcoat or even leave it over night but you must protect the basecoat from dust and debris...because all that will be trapped in your clearcoat...just as the basecoat...a little light quick first application to become tacky and then 2 good heavy ones...the clearcoat is much more forgivable...avoid dripping because removing with a razor blade or other equipment is NOT as easy as it looks..!!!
and now you have the final result that is nowhere near the professional job in a workshop!!THE ATOMIZATION OF THE PARTICLES THAT A PROFFESIONAL GUN PROVIDES LIKE IWATA SATA DEVILBISS IS EXCEPTIONAL FOR PRODUCING A SMOOTH GLASS LIKE FINISH.....THE ANSWER TO THAT IS....WET SANDING BUFFING POLISHING...BUT FIRST LET IT DRY COMPLETELY FOR DAYS...NOT HOURS ESPECIALLY WITH THE ''USUAL'' CLEARCOAT SPRAY CANS ...a good indication is that most if not all the varnish odor-smell will be gone!!!
start wet sanding...with plain water or soapy water...soapy water JUST provides better lubrication and nothing more..sand in one direction although i havent noticed and major difference with the little circular ones..every method has advantages and disadvantages...if your paint job is fairly good start with 800-1000 all the way up to 2000 no need to go further...probably the best is 1000-1500-2000
try to produce a uniform haze all over the surface...
and now that you did it worse...its time for the buffing wheel or if the surface is small just a clean cloth and a buffing compound...if you go all the way up to 2000 GRIT DO NOT USE A COARCE BUFFING COMPOUND...use a medium or a fine....you dont need to use all three steps coarse ..medium..fine especially if you are not a pro cause you can damage your work easily with the coarse one!in fact use only fine compound for two reasons...
1.when you go all the way up to 2000 grit fine compound is descent enough to produce an almost flawless surface without visible marks even in black color and under lamp...
2.THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE IS THIS...THE CLEARCOAT VARNISH ON THE SPRAY CAN THAT YOU NORMALLY GET FROM THE HARDWARE STORES IS SOFT AND NOWHERE NEAR THE ROCK SOLID 2 PART CLEARCOAT WITH THE HARDENER...SO IT IS VERY EASY ESPECIALLY IF YOU USE A BUFFING WHEEL NOT A CLOTH TO PENETRATE ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE BASECOAT AND REALLY DESTROY YOUR WORK!!!
FINAL STEP...now you must have a really shiny piece that you are proud of...use some proper polishing compound and a clean rag and thats all...!!!
ALWAYS WEAR MASK AND ALL THE OTHER EQUIPMENT...I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL AND MY EXPERIENCE IS NOT SO GREAT.!!!!CHEE(R)S!!!
+GIANNIS LYMPEROPOYLOS not all spray cans are the same, so the same information and techniques don't apply to all of them. The coating method is consistent, but for example, in some cases you should sand the base coat.
sorry but I thought and STILL BELIEVE you should never sand the base coat if you apply it properly...the clearcoat acts like a magnifying lens and any sanding imperfections will be in the final product!!...but you are a pro so i believe you know what you are talking about...anyway...
i forgot to mention that if you DO NOTwant a high gloss or even a semi gloss finish.....
WITH MATTE PAINT AND MATTE CLEARCOAT-VARNISH...YOU REALLY DONT HAVE TO DO ANYTHING OF THE SANDING BUFFING...YOU WILL ACHIEVE ALMOST PERFECT RESULTS WITH MINIMUM EFFORT...THIS COMES FROM MY EXPERIENCE PAINTING 2 OBJECTS...ONE WAS A HELMET AND THE RESULTS WAS ''PRO QUALITY''!!!
and yes you are right about the cans but i mentioned it....follow the manufacturers guide....although from buying and testing experience...this method is about the same!!!
and always remember my golden rule on sanding....totally independently from the material you are sanding...metal wood plastic plexi...YOU CAN REMOVE ALL THE MATERIAL YOU WANT..EVEN LEAVING NOTHING TO WORK ON...BUT YOU CAN NOT ADD MATERIAL TO YOUR PIECE...OR AT LEAST IT IS VERY DIFFICULT...SO START UPSIDE DOWN...YOU THINK THAT 220 GRIT IS OK?START FROM 320 OR 400...IF THE WORKING PROGRESS IS TOO SLOW THEN YOU CAN MOVE DOWN TO 280-220....AND ALL THE WAY UP TO YOUR PREFERENCE....!!!!
Other tips, get your own youtube channel. Why in the world do people come on someone's youtube channel and start spouting their own stuff? Giannis, open a youtube channel and if you're that good, we'll all check out your info.
9 years later and this is still top notch. :)
Actually very helpful. Thanks.
You just helped me rescue my dodgy painting of a pair of bi-fold metal closet doors. Practice makes perfect and you look well practiced.
I’ve spent a fair bit of time with a spray can in my hand haha.
Great video Brad, btw whats your work out regimen?
+Max Jerome Back when I did this video I was probably just playing rugby and maybe doing some bodyweight/calisthenics training.
Nice! I' do play rugby (left wing) but I'll try the calisthenics
I also play left wing haha.
+Max Jerome Overlapping 3" strokes
This was great. I was doing some touch up on my airplane and messed it all up because of my stupidity. After learning from you I was able to correct my errors and do further spray painting on the horizontal stabilizer. Thanks so much!
Glad to hear it was helpful
Brad would your please do your next video shirtless?
I already have a shirtless video. I was a bit scrawny in it haha, but it's there.
Brad Angove Oh wow really? Which video is it? Thanks man!
Did you find what you were looking for haha?
Still working on that one haha.
Thank you sooo much, I just learned how to avoid splotches and an uneven finish. I will practice my technique before I start redoing some furniture!
I hope it goes well for you.
maaan...the muscles
Lots of shaking paint cans.
Brad Angove "Shaking"... "Paint cans".... Couldn't resist. Anywho, your videos have helped a ton with a whole plethora of different projects I've been working on. Thank you so much.
You're welcome. I'm glad you've found them useful.
I think it's harder to cover a larger area
Coverage area was 6' x 3.' Like you said the metallic is translucent. So it was hard to find the balance mixed w/ the wind. a good thing it was only an outside work table made not for perfection. But it came out better than a bona fide rusted table. Thanks again
what do you paint on
I'm painting on dibond in this video.
Brad Angove thx
You're welcome.
thanks for the help I really enjoyed this as I am making a business about scooters like refurbishments, repairs, resprays etc etc. thumbs up!
I'm glad you found it useful.
Wear a mask people......
+Cloud Strife unlike you he cares about people
Mario Vargas I'm a very caring person.
+Cloud Strife ok :)
You're not my mom >:(
It's bad for your lungs etc. You risk cancer and various other complications from prolonged exposure.
Brad, Brad. It’s been 8 years, you still like and comment. That’s commitment. 🤯
Doing my best here George haha.
i find it hard to focus. he's gorgeous
+Tara Jackson I guess you'll just have to watch it more than once.
Brad Angove lol, I guess so!
+Zac Pini None of that judgmental bullshit here please.
+Zac Pini So, that didn't make sense. I think you might be missing some words there champ.
Regardless, I suggest you leave it there. Remember, this is my page, and I'm not in the mood for ignorance and idiocy right now.
Oh, this is great. UA-cam just automatically muted you haha. I didn't even have to do anything. I guess I must have checked off the loser filter and forgotten about it.
Feel free to reply; just note that it won't show up haha. You might be better off sending me a direct message; my mood has changed and now I feel like laughing at you for a while, so hit me up.
My neighbor needed help with the barrel as I wouldn't have touched it as I thought it looked beautiful. She wanted it all one color and then was going to stencil stars onto it. I stripped a rack of paint (metal) and plan to "try" multi coloring it with blue/mauve if I can manage. Thanks for responding.
Thanks for your tips so much !! I have a forge and I have colleagues that laugh at the idea of coloring my knives but these tips will help me a lot !
Awesome video. You've broken it down into the basic elements. Made me a much better painter. I now can see how it relates to welding. Thanks.
Thanks for watching Ken. I'm glad you've found the video helpful.
Having prep'd a pair of carbon motorcycle silencers I'm looking to apply some clear lacquer by spray can. I've little experience in spray painting but your video here is so clear and informative that I feel ready now to get these silencers finished. Thank you!
Thanks Damien. I also have one on painting curved surfaces.
I love spray painting but I do make mistakes. Your video really helped me understand. What ever way I paint it has to be consistent. Thanks
+A Special Touch You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Hi Brad, another great video for us inexperienced folk! Thank you for another very informative video, you are a very good instructor as you describe why the things that happen which makes your videos the most informative. Keep up the great work! I look forward to future videos!
Thank you Jeff
THANKS ALOT!!! YOU REALLY HELPED ME!!! I USED TO HAVE A BAD BLOTCHING PROBLEM, BUT NOT NOW!
I'm glad I was able to help.
This tips were immensely helpful! Thanks for taking the time to share!
Thanks for watching.
Wish I had found this video BEFORE I started spray painting my metal enclosures for guitar pedals .... I have been sanding down with fine grit sandpaper and wiping down with Naphtha between coats but I should have practiced on a large board like you have first. Thanks for the infos!
Glad I could help
This is pretty good, I'm going to use crystal acrylic sealer spray for my painting once it is dry, but I think that even though it's clear and not paint color, these are still good tips to go by. Thank you for this video.
Greetings from Punta Arenas, Chile
+S. Pérez García Greetings. If you're trying to get an even coat of the sealer, which should in turn give you an even sheen if any, I think you'll find this technique useful.
Thank you for watching.
Thank you for this video! I was so frustrated with the blotchy shiny/matt spotting on a desk I was spraying gloss black. I needed to SEE how to do it. This works!
Glad to be of service. I hope your project turns out well.
About to paint some parts on your motorcycle thank you for the information.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Ya, rustoleum has a few nice metallic colors. They are a bit difficult to spray evenly though.
Yes. Try spraying in the opposite direction.
I think you just solved a problem I keep having! When using spray paint on metal furniture, I keep getting some shiny places and some matte/rough spots. From this video, I'm thinking I'm not overlapping enough (or honestly, at all). Can't wait to see if that is what is messing me up.
There is a very good chance that this will resolve that issue for you.
You did really good with showing how to move the wet edge, it was pretty satisfying honestly.
I’m glad to hear it. I tried to make sure I had the camera angle set up for it.
8 years later and it is helping me! Thank you!
Glad to hear it.
Thanks for putting this out there. Helpful for my first time using a spray paint can.
alexp247365 I'm glad you found it useful. You're welcome.
You can also spray with two cans at the same time . Hold them both close to each other and spray them simultaneously
+Reo White Ya, I’ve done a video on that.
Glad to hear it. What brand are you using now?
I have a lot of trouble spray painting this video helped me a lot thc a million bro
Glad I could help.
Learned a good tip there after decades of my first aerosol paint job. ( the overlap method I have never done ). I'm respraying my Nissan NV200 back bumper today and hope it turns out a showroom finish ? Thanks Brad. Bill - Cornwall, England.
On the new cans you can always pull off the nozzle and stick it on your WD40 can to clear it, or just blast some air through it from your compressor and stick it back on your can gently without getting more paint into it. Great video.
Interesting idea. Thanks.
By the time I turn to video tutorials, I'm pulling my hair out over a project. Thank you for giving all the details I've been looking for without making me feel like a moron in the process.
Glad I could help.
I'm repainting my table with spray paint. This has been pretty helpful. Thank you!
You're welcome. I hope your table turns out well.
Thank you. I hope it was helpful.
I ended up with tiger striping and dry spots, time for me to fix. Thanks for the tips!
I hope it goes well for you.
I had to start over, Im getting better though. I think the small body repair turned out well, but if I knew of the cut out a hole in the cardboard metbod, or cover the areas that did not need painted, my mistake would have been on a smaller scale. Overall Im more confident from learning, I feel better.
Absolutely exquisite form, I'm confident in saying you are a true role model for my generation
Wow, that’s a massive compliment. Thank you.
The blue showed well with walking the wet edge. good tips.
Thanks. Glad you like it.
Definitely got a lot of info from this video. Will be using what I learned here in a model kit project that i'll be working on.
+Nendogamer I'm glad you found it useful. Keep in mind that it's easy to build up too much paint on small surfaces and create runs.
Spotless. Digging that metallic blue!
Thanks. I'm glad you like the colour.
Thank Brad. Excellent pointers on trusting the stroke. Well done!
Thank you sir.
That's why my 2014 American Deluxe Strat is a little stripey when the light hits it at a certain angle, but when I run my finger over it, it's not bumpy.
Ya, it’s probably an issuer with pigment concentration being higher near the middle of the “stream”.
Thanks. I noticed my coats needed work and these tips really helped my technique.
I'm glad you found them useful.
Thanks so much for this! I needed these tips as ill be spraying some "mirror chrome" on a gloss black.... here's hoping I don't screw it up!
Hey Brad this video was VERY helpful for me! Im going to paint two of my basses with a metallic finish and this gave me a good idea on how to do it! Thanks alot!
mrFatalDemize You're welcome. I hope it goes well for you.
Hey Brad, thanks for sharing these great tutorials. I’m learning a lot. If you have the time, I have a few questions regarding high heat spray paint. I’m building an Ugly Drum Smoker out of a 55-gallon steel drum/barrel. The build is simple & straightforward. I’m concerned about the paint process. No experience with spray paint. The drum will be sandblasted to bare metal inside & out. The inside will be left unpainted. I plan on using Rustoleum High Heat Ultra with two-tone color scheme of semi-gloss black and semi-gloss aged copper. Label recommends No Primer. A guy that’s painted many drum smokers (w/VHT spray cans), said he found black as a base coat worked well under gold and copper top coats, giving it a deeper, richer color. After proper surface prep, I plan to paint everything with Rustoleum High Heat Ultra flat black as a base coat/primer. Then I plan to use black semi-gloss as top coat on parts to be black, and the copper semi-gloss on parts to be copper. Am I approaching this correctly? Any advice or tips you can offer is greatly appreciated. Norman
Hi Norman. Yes, I think your approach makes sense. Full disclosure - I don't work with high heat paint. But, what you're telling me makes sense, and I would be quite worried about using a normal primer on something like that.
Brad Angove Wow B, I was surprised to get such a fast reply. Thanks. Btw, I subscribed. Do you recommend using a trigger type spray can adapter? I haven’t seen you use one yet.
Thank you for your painting tutorials they are very helpful as I was planning to do a home project on a guitar I sent your sandblast video and a couple others thanks again
Some good advice and tips; would like to know about clear next - that's where I've had problems?
Have a look at my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans.
I could've used this a few years ago when I was struggling with finishing a guitar and also a car bumper. I'm going to have to watch your previous vids for more nuggets. BTW great finish on Darrell's LP guitar kit.
Thanks David. I hope you find some helpful content.
I hold further away and go slower cause up closer you tend to end up where the atomized paint can end up on your finger tip you are using to spray and that build up will drip onto your surface.
Also a good tip is never use beyond 70% of a can. After that it tends to act up.
Getting a good paint job all relies on preparation, patience and experience with the medium used (rattle can in this case). Everyone will screw up the first time or if you rush it. I just finished a spoiler for my car and took the clear all the way to 5000 grit. It took a lot of time and patience but pays off with a mirror like finish.
Anyway good video.
evilcowboy I never have trouble with atomized paint getting on my hand. Are you sure your finger isn't hanging over the tip a bit? Maybe try angling the can.
If you are careful about shaking the can properly right from the first time you use it, and you keep your tips/nozzles cleaned properly, you should be able to use the whole can without any problems. If you're painting horizontally when the can is almost empty you could have some trouble, but aside from that you should be fine.
With a proper polishing system you don't need to sand beyond about 2000 for a mirror finish, but I also go up to 5000 because it makes polishing faster and easier.
Brad Angove Hey I like your video, especially the ideas in the second half about spray paint a car
. Something I also found helpfull for car spray painting tutorial
is Moorack Car Spray Miracle - search google if you want
Thanks so much for this video and all of your other videos. Informative and easy to understand
Thanks Tom