Those straight stone hones are the best because they will show up any waves or low spots in the bore if you use the ball type hone they tend to hide defects..
Some folks may find this hard to believe, but that's okay too. The only way I could do what I'm going to tell you is the good Lord help me. That hone you have is actually a boring hone. Mine is exactly like yours, and mine came with a little wooden stick with a weird piece of sandpaper on it, and you use that to shape the stones and get them true. That hone is guaranteed to be able to get with in .001 out of round, and within .001 taper. I used mine to put a .040 over piston in the rear of a standard bore 5.9 24 valve ISB Cummins engine. It took about 18 hours to cut the hole and get the clearances right, and about 6 hours to clean up my mess, because I've done it with the engine still in the truck. The engine is in a 2002 mt45 Freightliner step Van. I have put about 30,000 miles on the truck since I done it. When you work those engines hard, with the factory cooling system the rear cylinder overheats, and the Piston was rocking up at the top of the cylinder and really got to hammering, so I had to pull it down and that's what was wrong. You use that hone dry. According to Cummins, you can put a oversized piston in like that as long as it is a Cummins piston. It runs great, and don't seem to vibrate or anything, run smooth, and I don't hold back, I run it! I actually have a video of that. It's a nice tool. I turned it with a half inch Milwaukee drill.
That’s a great story. There is a huge amount of satisfaction being able to fix something yourself. I’m impressed you were able to remove that much material. Since the engine has been working for all those miles you obviously did a fine job.
I totally respect and admire your drive and desire to do this in house, but this is one of the few things I recommend be sent out to a shop with TORQUE PLATES to get done, especiallyif you're going stroker. There is 20-30 hp to be gained in a small block Ford. Still nice work though.
Confused a bit here. John, your looking for perfection but use a cheap Amazon measuring device made in China most likely. Buy some decent non Amazon and Harbor Freight tools.
The tools that I had to buy to rebuild my engine are tools that I didn’t already have, and most likely will rarely use again. While I would love to own Mitutoyo or Starrett, I can’t justify paying quadruple the cost for one-time use tools.
The Lisle hone worked great once I got the stones adjusted properly. First, the stones weren’t parallel. When tightening the micro knob the bottom of the hone would contact the bore while the top still had clearance. I cut a shim from a soda can and placed it under the mounting clip of one of the stones so that the hone tightened even in the bore. The second thing was getting the tension/compression just right. Not enough pressure on the cylinder and the stones aren’t doing their job, you’re just wasting time and energy. That’s how I started out, just to be safe. Too much pressure and the stones try to dig in and rip the drill out of your hands. Had that happen once! The sweet spot did place a good amount of torque on the drill though. However, a smaller cylinder bore would need less torque than a larger bore.
So did you remove about .030 worth of material or did you have those cylinders bored first? I have a Kwik way FWS boring bar and it’s good for 1.750 through 3.750.
My block had previously been bored and the new pistons just barely fit into the cylinders so I basically started out with zero piston to wall clearance. I used the hone to give me the required 0.0015” - 0.002” clearance.
The Lisle 15000 came with coarse grit (80) and medium (180). I started with the coarse and followed up with the medium, and then the ball hone. The Lisle cost me $150 at the time; I imagine I could get half that much for it used.
After doing over 400 engines I have learned how to hone for more power.
It is an art.
Those straight stone hones are the best because they will show up any waves or low spots in the bore
if you use the ball type hone they tend to hide defects..
Some folks may find this hard to believe, but that's okay too. The only way I could do what I'm going to tell you is the good Lord help me. That hone you have is actually a boring hone. Mine is exactly like yours, and mine came with a little wooden stick with a weird piece of sandpaper on it, and you use that to shape the stones and get them true. That hone is guaranteed to be able to get with in .001 out of round, and within .001
taper.
I used mine to put a .040 over piston in the rear of a standard bore 5.9 24 valve ISB Cummins engine. It took about 18 hours to cut the hole and get the clearances right, and about 6 hours to clean up my mess, because I've done it with the engine still in the truck. The engine is in a 2002 mt45 Freightliner step Van. I have put about 30,000 miles on the truck since I done it. When you work those engines hard, with the factory cooling system the rear cylinder overheats, and the Piston was rocking up at the top of the cylinder and really got to hammering, so I had to pull it down and that's what was wrong. You use that hone dry. According to Cummins, you can put a oversized piston in like that as long as it is a Cummins piston. It runs great, and don't seem to vibrate or anything, run smooth, and I don't hold back, I run it! I actually have a video of that. It's a nice tool. I turned it with a half inch Milwaukee drill.
That’s a great story. There is a huge amount of satisfaction being able to fix something yourself. I’m impressed you were able to remove that much material. Since the engine has been working for all those miles you obviously did a fine job.
I totally respect and admire your drive and desire to do this in house, but this is one of the few things I recommend be sent out to a shop with TORQUE PLATES to get done, especiallyif you're going stroker. There is 20-30 hp to be gained in a small block Ford. Still nice work though.
its nuts to see that the uniformity is better in an engine block than on a silicon wafer lol. and only off by 1 or 2 digits.
Confused a bit here. John, your looking for perfection but use a cheap Amazon measuring device made in China most likely. Buy some decent non Amazon and Harbor Freight tools.
The tools that I had to buy to rebuild my engine are tools that I didn’t already have, and most likely will rarely use again. While I would love to own Mitutoyo or Starrett, I can’t justify paying quadruple the cost for one-time use tools.
@@JohnLatrobe many people buy good used tools. Use them once and resell them.
How did the lisle hone perform? I just got the smaller version 16000 in today. I’ll be doing some outboard cylinders
The Lisle hone worked great once I got the stones adjusted properly. First, the stones weren’t parallel. When tightening the micro knob the bottom of the hone would contact the bore while the top still had clearance. I cut a shim from a soda can and placed it under the mounting clip of one of the stones so that the hone tightened even in the bore.
The second thing was getting the tension/compression just right. Not enough pressure on the cylinder and the stones aren’t doing their job, you’re just wasting time and energy. That’s how I started out, just to be safe. Too much pressure and the stones try to dig in and rip the drill out of your hands. Had that happen once! The sweet spot did place a good amount of torque on the drill though. However, a smaller cylinder bore would need less torque than a larger bore.
So did you remove about .030 worth of material or did you have those cylinders bored first? I have a Kwik way FWS boring bar and it’s good for 1.750 through 3.750.
My block had previously been bored and the new pistons just barely fit into the cylinders so I basically started out with zero piston to wall clearance. I used the hone to give me the required 0.0015” - 0.002” clearance.
Just wondering what grit stones you used?
Did you use 2 different grits?
Rough and fine ?
How much was the lisle 15000?
The Lisle 15000 came with coarse grit (80) and medium (180). I started with the coarse and followed up with the medium, and then the ball hone. The Lisle cost me $150 at the time; I imagine I could get half that much for it used.
Go pro you'll be hands free!