COMP Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifter Retro-fit Ford 289 302 Stroker Rebuild part 2
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- Опубліковано 17 лип 2024
- This is Part 2 of my Ford 289 302 Stroker Rebuild.
In this video I drill and tap the lifter valley to accept the spider tray for the roller lifters. This retro-fit kit allows you to install a compatible roller cam and lifters in a non-roller block.
COMP Cams kit 31-1000
www.compcams.com/retro-fit-hy...
Build list:
Camshaft hydraulic roller kit, COMP Cams SK31-442-8
Camshaft 31-442-8
284 Advertised Duration
224 Duration @ 0.050” lift
.533” Lift
110 Lobe separation
Roller lifters High Energy CCA-851-16
Roller retrofit kit CCA-31-1000
Timing chain CCA-3120
www.compcams.com/magnum-224-2...
Cam thrust plate, Speedmaster PCE510.1004
www.speedmaster79.com/Ford-SB...
Clutch kit, McLeod Racing Super Street Pro 75213
www.mcleodracing.com/super-st...
Clutch release lever spring C6ZZ-7523-C
Clutch rod spring Scott Drake C5ZZ-7523-A (long)
Clutch Roller Z-Bar and Clutch Rods, Opentracker Racing Products
opentrackerracing.com/product...
Cylinder heads ProMAXX 9175, Maxx 180 SBF - PROMAXX Performance Products
promaxxperformance.com/produc...
Eagle crankshaft ESP-B16021MA060, Eagle Specialty Products
Eagle rods SIR 5400FB, ARP 8740 bolts
Pistons hypereutectic, KB 355.060
Rings Hastings 2M 8542 065
Main bearings King MB 529SI
Rod bearings King CR 804SI
www.eaglerod.com/item/5525594...
www.summitracing.com/parts/es...
Flywheel Billet Steel 28oz., JEGS 555-602355
www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60235...
Gasket set: Fel-Pro 2816
Exhaust gaskets 1415
Front crankshaft seal 2942
Head gaskets 1134
Intake gaskets 1250 S-3, 1262
Oil pan gasket OS 13260T
Rear crankshaft seal 2901
Water pump/timing chain gaskets
Valve cover gaskets 1684
Harmonic balancer, SpeedMaster PCE291.1015
www.speedmaster79.com/Ford-SB...
Head bolts, ARP 154-3601
arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-det...
Head bolt bushings, SpeedMaster PCE277.1001
www.speedmaster79.com/Ford-SB...
Hurst Pit Pack Competition Plus 4 Speed Clips & Hardened Tool Steel Bushings, Super 661 LK-1
www.5speeds.com/cart/index.php...
Intake manifold dual plane air gap, Assault Racing ARC PC4025
www.assaultracing.com/item/12...
Motor mount bolts, ARP 150-3102
arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-det...
Oil pan 7qt drag style, Assault Racing ARC A9737P
www.assaultracing.com/item/12...
Oil pump driveshaft ARP 154-7904
arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-det...
Oil pump pickup CFR Performance HZ-7421
PCV valve Fram FV184
Pushrods Chromoly 5/16” x 6.600”, Trick Flow TFS-21406600
www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-2...
Radiator shroud Northern Z40025
Rocker arms die cast aluminum, COMP Cams High Energy 17044~16
www.compcams.com/high-energy-...
Rocker arm studs 7/16”, JEGS 20584
www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/20584...
Toploader 4-speed HD Rebuild Kit, Allstate Gear BK135HDWS
www.allstategear.com/Ford-Top...
Toploader Case Aluminum, SpeedMaster PCE659.1004
www.speedmaster79.com/Ford-Mu...
Toploader Countershaft Pin, Allstate Gear WT296-3
www.allstategear.com/Toploade...
Valve covers, Assault Racing ARC A6728-3
www.assaultracing.com/item/12...
Valve cover breather Spectre Performance 4276
Water neck alum Scott Drake C5OE-8592-A
Water pump clockwise rotation, Milodon 16330
www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/16...
Water pump bolts eBay - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for the video. I'm sure you are aware how unbelievably hard it is to find accurate information on any of the Ford/ Mustang forums. This one video answered a lot of the questions I had on the process. Very much appreciated.
I have watched all your 289 and top-loader videos and wanted to compliment you on their quality; very nicely done, sir.
Also, kudos for turning two pig’s ears, the cobbled together engine and the scrap transmission, into silk purses. You do quality work.
Exact video I was looking for. Nice job!
good job, very good option to take advantage of a no roller block, and even better if you have a good block made in mexico.
and bam you you got a roller 302 block! Good job!
Thanks a lot
Hecho en Mexico 🇲🇽 😏
Supposedly stronger, with added Nickel??
Thanks for the video they are awesome. How have the retrofit cam and lifters held up.
Except for the defective lifter on first startup they are performing great.
Very good conversion from flat tappet to roller.
I have a non roller 351w block, does this kit work for this motor and can I use any roller cam with this conversion kit?
Comp Cams 31-1000 retro-fit kit is designed for 289, 302, 351W, 351C, 351M and 400M engines not originally equipped with hydraulic roller cams. However, it can only be used with specific Comp Cams with reduced size base circles. Standard roller cams will push the lifter too high and expose the oiling port. BAD!!
Hello thanks for sharing !
Is necessary to change the pushrods?
Stock pushrods works?
The retro roller lifters are slightly taller than the stock flat tappets so I needed a slightly shorter pushrod to maintain proper rocker arm geometry. I ended up with a 6.600” pushrod.
Having never done this before myself, could you have offset the holes in the spider tray so you could drill somewhere other than above the cam bearing?
At the time I installed the spider, it did seem to be a bad place for the mounting holes, but I was mistaken. The kit is designed to be installed on an engine with only the intake removed, and drilling blind holes over the cam bearings ensures no metal chips fall onto the cam and crank. I could have moved the holes over a little, but they still have to remain on the flat of the spider tray. As long as you utilize a drill stop of some kind there’s no possibility of going too deep.
For some reason comp cams said I don't need the girdle have u ever heard of such on a roller cam? Thanks for the video
You either need the spider tray and the dog bones or you need lifters with link bars. Otherwise the lifters will rotate and fail.
You get that to run alright? I had an absolute MF of a time getting one of those reduced base circle cams to run right. I used the 421-8 kit.
I ended up making a cutter out of an old lifter and decked the top of each lifter bore so that the dog bones wouldn't ride hard up against the lifters. Mine just wanted to walk and side load stuff.
Are you saying that the casting at the top of the lifter bores were messing with the dog bone alignment? I can see how the notch on the inside of the dog bone could snag on the top of the bore and pull the lifter to one side. Machining the top flat would eliminate that. You do have to be careful not to remove so much that the dog bone contacts the shoulder on the lifter and moves up and down.
I did feel some side loading on a couple lifters (they wouldn’t drop on their own when rotating the cam) but to me it seemed like it was caused by the spider tray not being perfectly aligned. I tweaked the tray as best I could so that the tension was more in line with the bore and not at an angle. After that the lifters dropped just fine but I don’t know it it’ll stay that way. I just got the motor back in the car but there’s still a lot to do before I start her up.
@@JohnLatrobe That's exactly what I am saying. And yes, careful when decking the lifter bores.
I got mine all uniform but still, lots of futzing with it.
do you have a video of the motor done
Not yet. The motor is back in the car but still needs wiring and hoses.
Made in México 👍
I could use a COMP HIPO cam with this right? Or do I need a Cam that is designed for roller lifter. Also how does this help with the breaking in process (Flat tappet / need zink additive / 2000 rpm and then question CAM strength and hardness vs older quality cams like my original in my 1967 mustang), also is there any changes to push rods required you said they are shorter or does the stud take up the extra?
Ford roller blocks use large base circle cams, whereas earlier non-roller blocks use cams with a small base circle. In addition, the roller block lifter bores are longer since roller lifters are longer than older flat tappet lifters. So, in order to run a roller cam in an early non-roller block you need 2 things.
1. A small base circle roller cam (not a flat tappet) called a roller retrofit cam
2. Retrofit roller lifters designed for non-roller blocks. Standard roller lifters are too tall for the lifter bore and can expose the oil port at high lift. You can use lifters that require dog bones and a spider tray, or lifters with link bars.
Roller cams don’t require additives or a break-in procedure like flat tappets do. Also, you should measure for the proper pushrod length so that the rocker arm is perpendicular to the valve stem at mid lift.
@@JohnLatrobe - Please help with more info - very new to 289 engine and based in South Africa ( just bought a 1967 mustang coupe, manual). What cam that is like a HIPO cam meets the criteria (roller retrofit cam)
2)Do the stock pushrods work, and the stock rockers 1.6 ratio. Will I need to put in ARP studs for reliability and peace of mind, as lift could stress stock studs)
3)have heard bad stories of normal cams and hydralic lifters ( non roller) - not running in properlly, given I am in SA, I haveto import everything, so could not afford a defect or a bad run-in.
4)Is the run-in process with roller retrofit cam and matched roller hydraulic lifters, much simpler. or still a 200 rpm for 30 min exercise? and also special oil / more zink additive etc..
Tks John for your help
@@user-wm1ft7bj8w You can search on the COMP Cams website for 289 roller cams and get the specs to compare to their HIPO grind, but flat tappet and roller cams specs don’t really compare directly. Flat tappet lobe profiles are limited in how steep they can be so roller cam lobes can open the valve faster. If you look at the 284HR cam specs for example, it has slightly less duration than the HIPO cam, but much higher lift so it probably flows better. Just my opinion…
2) Anytime you’re using non-factory parts it’s a good idea to measure for the proper pushrod length in order to achieve the proper rocker arm geometry. If your heads have pressed-in studs you’ll definitely want to upgrade to screw-in rocker arm studs.
3) The failure rate of flat tappets during break-in is exactly why I chose to convert to a roller.
4) Roller cams don’t require any special run-in procedure or zinc additive. Just some proper assembly lube.
I'm happy I have a 5.8 EFI roller block. No need to do this.
The newer blocks don’t have the mounting boss for the clutch linkage (z-bar) that I need.
Just buy retrofit roller lifters and avoid this.
Have you priced decent ones lately? Over $600 for just the lifters from Lunati, Howards or TFS.