Changing GM 3.0, 3.2 and 3.6 Timing Chains and setting timing
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- In this video I go through removing old timing chains, fitting new timing chains and setting the timing correctly on GM 3.0, 3.2 and 3.6 Engines.
The Vehicle I am working on is a 2007 Holden Commodore Ve Sv6
Parts used in this video are
Machter timing kit - www.machter.co...
Great no BS video man, got one of these in the shop we rarely do GM stuff and it was a great reference to make sure all was done right so thank you... stay blessed. 🤙🇺🇸✌️
One of the best video's on a 2005 cadillac 3.6l timing chain replacement i have seen. Thanks So much..
Thank you for your well explained video. The only item I nearly forgot was the guide at the bottom left that you didn't replace. I only remembered when I did a check and found it still in the box. Lucky I could still get it fitted even after releasing the tensioner. I don't think I could have done this job without this video. Keep up the good work. Vehicle was a 2010 Captiva 3.2
It's my understanding, you don't want to actually replace this guide. Most will remove the neoprene "shoe" that sits on the guide and swap the new with the old one. The bolts that hold that guide bracket to the oil pump are critical torque specs and its best to not unbolt. This is also a good time to just go ahead and swap the oil pump for the same reasons as mentioned in the video (these engines are known to gum up). I mean, you're already in there and its right there.
MODERN!!!
I need to do a typing skills class.
Thanks explains very good. Good job
Fantastic video. Thank you
Good stuff knackers! 👍🏼😊
Great vid proper legend
I don't think there's any way that I can tell you what I gotta say and it'll not be lengthy but I'll tell you this you save my ASS plain and simple first off not realizing that that the torque to yield bolts on the oil pump needed to be changed (200k plus thought while I'm this far replace it)... I reuse them and I snapped one off so I had to break out the mig and fiddle fart around and finally get it out but in the process I thought my configuration on my chains was correct I gotta tell you man in all the videos I've watched no 1 explained the difference between the circles and the
triangles on the cam phazers NO ONE and I had setup to use both triangles front and rear I know I would have grenaded this thing and I gotta tell your brother you're the only one out of all the videos That made it clear they were to be aetup in the manner you showed.... So on this very day I'm tearing it all back apart and putting it back together like you suggest with a immense amount of confidence I can't thank you enough!!!! avid follower from here on out...
You do not need to special tools I have done many of these in my shop without the tools and just make sure when you set the timing on each Bank and the lobes that are flat on the cams at the end of it are flat faced up, when you set each individual chain, the right Bank you will have to hold the exhaust cam with a channel lock player from moving one tooth over or back
Awesome video!
Dam just realised cant add a pic so the triangle on the exhaust phaser is at the 10 o'clock position and the inlet is at the 12 o'clock position do you know what has happened and how I should proceed thanks
Hi I'm just starting my chains and not quite sure what's going wrong but I've rotated bottom dot to 23min mark and put locking tool on left bank and then thought cause dot is on stage 1 timing mark and flats were facing up and locking tool was fitted I was ok to proceed but after I took first chain off I realised the triangles on the left bank phasers are not even close to where they need to be to fit new chain here is a pic of where marks are
Hi Benny, about to attempt this and was wondering the reason why you wouldn't be able to lock the left bank with the diagonal tool and right bank with flat top tool and swap all three chains at once. Apparently this will cause a missfire?
At 22:24 when you're spinning the engine over the three chain tensioners are moving in and out as the engine spins. Only one of mine moves (left side). Only thing different is I'm turning mine over by hand on the crank bolt. Your thoughts sir?
Cam tool # 1 is Cam tool # 3 they look the same except for the piece missing on the bottom
I’m attempting this job right now except my chains jumped time. I know I’ve got bent valves and the heads have gotta come off but my question is how do I set the crankshaft in the proper position before I take the chains off since I have no way of determining where it is based off of the cams… any help would be greatly appreciated
Hi benny, mate i followed every step you have outlined and i dropped the oil pan and replaced it with a clean one which i had as spare along with the oil pick up. the car worked! BUT there is a rattle every time i start the car and goes away after 30 seconds or so ( basically when the car warms up) THERE IS NO FAULT CODES AT ALL yes i used the right out 5w30, after an intensive research i came to conclusion that the Oil pick o- ring seal need replacement, order the part through holden, today i decided to inspect the chains WITHOUT disrupting them! they were tight as! BUT AFTER some revolutions they get loose abit? now i have stopped and hoping you or some legend could shed some light on if that is normal? or i have done something wrong?
Dont you have a tension wrench to set the tensions.
Might be a dumb question, but does the engine have to be at tdc before taking the chains off? Just did it but now it"s showing low compression in all cylinders when 3 tested good and the other 3 (with the side that jumped time) were low before.
its better to line up the marks on the crank sprocket and oil pump before you take the chains off even if its jumped timing. Reason is if you are 180 degrees off and have to rotate to the marks then it depends on where the cam shafts are in relation to the piston head you could have contact. it won't be bad because you are hand turning the engine but you will have to find out which valve is hitting what piston and manually rotate that camshaft. I actually removed all 4 cam shafts to check tolerances on the lobes and did a leakdown test to make sure I didn't have any dinged valves just in case.
🤟✌🤟
G'day mate, loved the video. I'm about to attempt this job for the first time but I only got two camshaft alignment tools and you mentioned the circles and triangles on the camshafts, I have the circles and triangles on each cam. When you did the passenger side chain, was the crank sprocket Mark at the five o'clock position? I have taken the front cover off and none of the marks on the chains line up with the marks on the sprockets. I confused. Hope you can help in some way. Cheers. 🤙🇦🇺
Hi Mark, yes all cam sprokets have both marks. You want to line up the circle marks to the chain on the passenger side bank. And use the triangle marks on the drivers side bank. Yes stage on timing (for the passenger bank chain and primary chain fitment) is at 5 o’clock on the crank. Stage 2 timing (drivers side bank chain fitment) the crank mark is at 7 o’clock. Maybe your cam locking tools are multi purpose. The first one you use on the passenger bank the flats are straight up. Then when you get the first two chains on you spin the motor and fit the angled locking tool. Then maybe you can re use your flat tool for the drivers side bank.
@@bennydiesel5413 Thanks heaps mate, really appreciate it. Cheers. 🤙🇦🇺
@@mark9378 no worries man. Let me know how you go. Also you need to get it right first time as you can’t re check the timing after spinning the engine. I think the engine needs to do 60 odd revolutions before the chain marks will ever line up again. I usually double check the stage one timing marks again at stage 2 position as all the chain links still line up to the sprocket marks (some areas the chain is just leaving the sprocket) but it’s close enough to verify that it’s correct. When you first start the engine after the job you sometimes get some light rattling until oil pressure has taken the tensioner slack.
@@bennydiesel5413 Will definitely let you know mate. Thanks again.
@@bennydiesel5413 Sorry to be a pain, and this might be a stupid question, are you saying I have to rotate motor approximately 60 turns? How do I know if it's a top dead centre? Sorry mate, just want to get this right.
Hi i have code p0017 is this the timing chain fault code?
What's the hours on this job?
Very good video
Thanks
Just wondering 3.o engine commodore will be the same
Thanks
10000km service intervals on a "moder" car is a bit uncool, though I understand the need for doing so.
I have a work colleague who just bought a Statesman with that engine in it.
1 owner, 500,000km.
Ex-taxi.
Runs really nicely, and is in such good nick, I'm thinking of stealing it.
After all, he got it for $500.00, spent $300.00 on it, and it's road legal.
Bastard.
Seriously, though, I'm very happy for him.
Seriously.
No, really.
For sure.
See ya.
Can u do my friends car?
Yes thank u for supporting me. Please send email. No msg or phone call. Email only plz. I’m away at military camp.
Shit oh dear.
Bring back pushrods.
i get p0016 bank 1, 2 times chech timing, same fucking code
Do you get p0008 as well?
@@bennydiesel5413 no only p0016,
@@arturka9464 i would swap the cam position sensors and phaser solenoids bank 1 to bank 2. Make sure they are all clean during the process. Then test and see what code. If it’s the same code it’s likely the chain/tensioner failed. If code changes to other bank it is a sensor
@@bennydiesel5413 could really use some guidance I was pretty confused about the whole task watch quite a few videos and read the workshop manual 1000 times but couldn't get my head around it until I watched Ur video it all just clicked and made sense up until triangles on left bank were way off where they need to be for new chains and pretty sure taking the locking tool off and rotating them to the right position isn't the way to go or is it so here I am stuck
One minute in and wrong info 👋👋