Setting the timing on a 3.6 liter GM
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- Опубліковано 4 гру 2020
- installing a cloyes timing component kit in a high feature 3.6 liter v6 engine in a 2010 Chevrolet Traverse. Shows old chains being removed and new being installed setting the timing
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Good job dood. The one thing I would suggest every one do is soak the chains in oil before installing them. Till they get enough oil on them from running the engine they are taking a beating running dry.
I'm about to do this job on an '09 Acadia and this is one of the several videos I've watched. I like how you explicitly show the colored links in relation to the sprockets and cam phasers. That's probably what scared me most, but now I feel at least a little better educated and can't wait to get started. Thanks for putting this video out there for part timers like myself!
How was it?
I just did the timing chains on my 2011 Equinox after watching your video. Now my wife's 2011 Acadia just pulled a p008 code. lol. The Equinox was a piece of cake compared to this, might have to get the shop to do it or just drive it till goes. Great videos and explanations, thanks for sharing.
Unfortunate series of events but glad I've got the content to keep you covered lol
Be starting on my acadia timing since it shows the same codes and has rod knocking
I have a 2009 Acadia and mine jumped time. My husband got the camshaft side fine, but the crankshaft is giving him the blues. The part that the timing marks at 5:00 isn't working bc as soon as it hits that 5:00 mark, the pistons start to go down. He is aggravated and don't know what else to do. Please help
Thank you so much for the video. I have removed the timing chain cover and when I tried to turn the crankshaft to get the camshafts to line up with the markings, it skipped the teeth. I really stressed out because now I had no idea what to do. You made it look like I can just turn what ever I need to, until the marks match the chains. 👍
Should be able to
I know this is a year later... One thing I did (because of a head removal/replacement due to valve damage) I had to r&r the cams on one side obviously. So I pulled the cam caps off both sides to pre-orient the cams (valve covers were already off anyways). That way I couldn't possibly cram the valves by mistake. This also allowed me to rotate the crank a significant number of revolutions to prime the new oil pump I put in it at the same time, before the chains went back on.
Nice example of what to do WITHOUT getting too excited about understanding “phase 1&2”. The phases just help with aligning the chains without having to adjust the cams directly…probably an exaggerated point because of the cam holders that they recommend using…without the cam holders all you need to do is make sure the back of the cams “flats” are up.
Thank you!
Smart dude thank you. But question is, on the left side you turned the intake side to align your chain for 12 links. Does it not matter if it’s the in or out you turn to get your 12 links?
could you do a video showing the steps of dropping the motor? would be very helpful
Check the camshaft for looseness especially if your engine was shaking and making a clacking sound the phasers sprocket needs to be replaced too if it’s rotating on it’s own
Great video
Thank you!
Good job I like it
Thanks! And thanks for watching!
Hopefully somebody can help me out with this. I got into this same job and following the c l o y e s video on UA-cam I put it in timings stage 2 to begin the process. However I messed up and used the timing mark on the chain the yellow link to line it up with the dot on the oil housing I just wasn't thinking. I took the right Bank chain off. I rotated it... The crankshaft that is very carefully trying to link everything back up and failed miserably. I don't believe I've bent any valves. How do I get the cams and the crank back where they should be together? The Left Bank has not been touched at all so the primary chain is still on as is the right Bank chain
I would flush these engines too before or after the timing is done to give them a good cleaning and prepare them for the fresher oil which will help protect the engine components and eliminate varnish and sludge and cool it better a cleaner engine is a longer lasting one
So I replaced chains that had 70,000mi on them, appeared to be a tensioner that was stuck. Now with 10,000mi on them I have loose chains again. I assume tensioners are stuck again. Any idea why they keep getting stuck? Have oil under valve cover so oil is flowing. Thanks
Engine must be cleaning out to get all gunk from poor maintenance tune up not done properly
Not poor maintenance. Engine was exceptionally clean, no sludge or build up of any kind. That's why I am at a loss. Some videos I watched, I couldn't believe how much sludge was built up. I was expecting that, but had the opposite.
Would love to be able to do this. Too bad my garage has a 7.5 ft ceiling and can't accommodate a lift. Pulling the 3.6L is a bit of a pain when you can't lift the car off the subframe.
Thanks for watching. They're determined to make vehicles as close to impossible to diy as they can. I've only had the lift couple years and was floor jacking for an eternity before that, definitely a blessing
Smart man!!!!!
My marks on my phasers are on the bottom side. Do I take the chains off and spin them by hand to get them on the top side or what because there is no way to get the chain lined up with the marks unless they move. Hadnt taken them off yet
Turn the crankshaft 360 degrees clockwise while chains are on to get marks on top
Hey man, I tried digging through the comments and didn't see anything. Do you have a parts list of everything you need to do this job? I'm assuming... Water pump, 9-0753S Timing Kit, Valve Cover gasket kit, timing cover gasket kit (if that's even a thing? Autozone website wasnt helpful on that one)?
Thank you!
The timing cover itself is just silicone sealant that's used but the gasket kit for the timing cover does come with front crank seal and vvt solenoid seals and the water outlet/coolant seals but yes everything you listed should be what's required unless further damage found once you are into it. Typically the intake gasket I reuse but you may want to consider having a new one handy if you are looking to round up parts before getting into. Hth. Thanks for watching!
Ok.. I have questions.. does it matter about top dead center. Or do I just line everything up with timing chain marks and it will be ok. Or can it still be 180 out.
In the end everything just has to line up.
hey curtis i seen other vids where they needed to rotate the the cam shaft for each side of the chains , something about the exhaust and igniting, u didnt do any of that ,also i have 3.6 gm motor with code p0008 keeps coming up and i just clear the code car runs fine , any input would be apriciated
Is your car still running? I have the same thing with my Acadia, might just drive it as long as I can.
what if the crank is misaligned (rotates independently from camshafts) while the chains are off?
No idea
Can you pull the cam phasers to get your alignment
The left bank what I would call right the L on cam phasers are not even close can't turn the crack shaft to get it lined up
Is there ever purpose to replace camshaft gears like on the 4cyl Ecotec job? Or nah?
The phasers can go bad on the vvt 4 cyl ecotec, potentially worth replacing if you're in there already.
The same procedure for a buick enclave 2009??? Let me know please
Yes
My 2009 Chevy traverse and lost compression and it needs a time chain, any advice on what to do with it? Nobody wants to touch a 3.6 😭
To have it reliable I would recommend a whole motor which I know isn't cheap but would come with a good warranty. If you can find someone willing to do the timing I would say sell it after repaired anyway just because of the high failure rate of those engines or just try to sell as is needing repair. None a great option but GM just did a horrible job with that engine
Did you line the left bank from the dots or triangles?
Can't remember
That dude seriously just dropped the engine in 1 1/2 hours? WTH. That's unbelievable!! I bet he could change the headlights on my Honda Civic just by thinking about it.
I’ve been experiencing misfire one cylinder one only, I took it to a mechanic and he said the timing jumped, but I didn’t really believe him because he didn’t really explain anything. If the timing did jump and he was correct, wouldn’t all my bank one, cylinder one, three, and five be misfiring or am I getting something wrong?
You are correct, a single cylinder misfire won't be caused by jumped timing
@@BustedtoBuilt what do you think I should check? I have replaced spark plug, fuel injector, and coil. Still misfires, when I plug in my obd the fuel system for both banks go straight into open loop fault as soon as I start the car. Any help is appreciated.
Compression? injector power? Coil power? Injector trigger? Coil trigger?
Did you figure out what was causing misfire? Thanks
There are dots and triangles. For markings. I heard you say the triangle ones. Cloyes video does not mention it. I thought it was the dots, circle ones. My question is do I go by the triangle ones or the dot markings for the timing for the upper cams.
Right bank triangles, left bank dots
@@BustedtoBuilt ok, thank you so much. I'm working on a 2010 camaro.
Is there a step by step video out there that shows the power train removal you just did?
I don't have a video out that shows it but I'm sure with enough sifting there is one out there, thanks for watching!
hello dear, thanks for the great video. I got replaced my 2011 Camaro V6 LLT's timing chain with Cloyes kit. But it didn't fix my issue. Engine code P0008 is still there, also P0016 code has been added. My car is experiencing severe power loss. I have checked all sensors, they are all good. I didn't replace VVT sprockets... What should i do next? What is your suggestion?
I would use an oscilloscope to record cam sensor and crank sensor signals to verify timing off and proceed with that data as to whether it's mechanical timing issue, vvt actuator or solenoid issue, wiring, or potentially oil feed problem. I have never seen it but also on some there have been reports of crankshaft tone ring shifting on crankshaft
im not sure of your mechanical background so please dont be offended i am just trying to help. The left and right of the motor are not when your looking directly at the engine. the left bank is facing the front of the car the right bank is facing the rear and the timing marks are not too far apart. iv never had one issue chasing those codes by replacing the chains. its a extremely well known issue with these engines. are you positive the chains where installed correctly? there is L and R timing marks on all 4 cam sprockets and 2 crank timing stages during the process
@@BustedtoBuilt hi again, i got also replaced VVT Sprockets in the second step, and it didn't work either. Still same code.. Everything is triple checked, chains are aligned correctly. What should we do in the next steps?
@@bretlange969 hi again, i got also replaced VVT Sprockets in the second step, and it didn't work either. Still same code.. Everything is triple checked, chains are aligned correctly. What should we do in the next steps?
@@aykutyildiz7133 did you happen to watch the Cloyes install video they have? ua-cam.com/video/hZyehWKDV-Y/v-deo.html
P0008 only sets when the ECM detects both camshafts on either bank of the engine are mis-aligned with the crankshaft. disconect both battery terminals and touch them together for around10 seconds, this will kill the keep alive memory "KAM" and any learned values the ecm has saved. retest from there if your problem persists let me know.
also how was the vehicle running before you took it apart the very first time?
It’s faster? Dropping hall engine and transmission?
For me it is. I'm sure with enough practice you could get pretty efficient doing it in car but for a job as extensive as this I prefer to be able to put my eyes on the the timing marks instead trying to fish mirrors in every direction to try to confirm timing marks are on. A lot more piece of mind for me being able to look right at everything eye level. Currently I'm at about 8 hours to drop out the bottom replace chains and put car back on the motor which seems reasonable to me.
What about phase 1 and phase 2 timing?
Phase 3.. Profit :-)
8:05 Sir could you be so kind to convey if cylinder number 1 is top dead center at stage 2 position or stage 1. Thank you 🙂
I'm really not sure, been too long ago and unfortunately this is kind of a crummy video to get much info out of
Thx. I just finished the job. Stage 1 = cylinder 1 TDC. Stage 2 = cylinder 2 TDC
Bank 1 is the left correct?
Right bank is bank 1(rear of engine compartment on this application) if looking at front of motor the right bank (bank 1) is on the left
I have a 2010 traverse, had dumbass shop do complete timing. I bought a cloyes kit online for around $800, THEY wanted to use NAPA kit that was over $1100. They wouldnt warranty it because i brought in parts. Sure enough, after a few months problems. Crank positioning sensor, pulled over and shutoff, wouldnt turn over at all. It wont even turn by hand,...normally ouch. There was no sound, no oil dump, no smells,....nothing. I think maybe it jumped or tensioner/guide may have broke and something wedged in there. The starter isn't stuck out either.
Getting ready to look in myself. Oil looked fine as well. I had a couple comments or questions. I watched one video, ONLY ONE SO FAR,...where the mechanic said he's seen a few cloyes have some kind of defective pin(?) or something. I have not bought parts yet. Could that be in the tensioner that pushes out, only thing i can think of. Its odd, cloyes is one of best companies out there,...cloyes, melling, then maybe AC DELCO. He recommends a cloyes kit WITH i think AC DELCO tensioners.
The other thing, every video said if not replacing oil pump,..do NOT pull those two bolts holding that guide. It can mess up something. Of course the new pump has a new guide bolted on it. Im not picking, just curious, i seen you took it off.
Unfortunately they're just not a great engine imo. I've seen them fail with cloyes, napa,ac delco. Without tearing it down I wouldn't think too hard on what the problem might be, the shop could have done something to make it their fault but the proof will be in the pudding especially if she's siezed up. I get a lot of flack for the oil pump bolts but all the chains I've done are still out there driving around so take that for what it's worth. The most common issue I see that takes out a fresh set of chains is the high pressure fuel pump locking up on higher mileage engines, thanks for watching and sorry to hear about you're predicament
Just curious what you found and if you fixed it? Thanks
@@BustedtoBuiltyep I always recommend people replace the original high pressure fuel pump with a new one after replacing the timing chains especially if factory original I just did one on a 2010 Cadillac SRX still all factory original everything 🤔
IS THAT THE SAME PROCEDURE FOR 2018 CADILLAC CT6?
Could be, I wouldn't be the one to know
Why did you install a broken chain guide.. [Lower right] ?
Thanks for watching!
@@BustedtoBuilt someone has to watch you.. Putting broken parts in..Doh..LoL
What if the belt actually broke, how can you get it into the right phase??
I wouldn't, I'd be looking for a nee motor
how many miles is too many to do the chains ? i have 180 thousand on my XL7 and it runs fine . i do have the 16 / 17 and 18 codes .. i can get a complete low mileage for less than the chain set .. millions of them in junkyards .
I'd just swap the motor then
do you replace the oil pump, even if it doesn't need it?
Normally if there is significant debris from timing failure I replace pump, otherwise not unless requested by customer
@@BustedtoBuilt Loved your thinking about dropping the engine . I do the exact same . Hours work is better than fighting in a confined space !!
Always! Thank you
In Australia, our car is the Commodore, rwd, so job is done with engine still in car.
did you use the tools to hold the cams in place
No
@@BustedtoBuilt so no rods/ valves will get damaged by the cams turning once the chain was removed?
If an extreme amount of ignorance is applied to the repair, there is that chance. If care is taken then there should be no problem. The timing on these can jump better than 50 degrees without having ptv clearance issues
@@BustedtoBuilt only asked because your cam rotated slightly when you removed the chain, but thanks again
So I wasn’t thinking and spun the crank when all the chains were off….. how screwed am I? Everything is way off now 🤦🏻♂️
Everything is off or just the crank? If you only turned the crankshaft then you should be able to turn it until it's in the proper position or turn it back to where it was before
Thumbs up!!!!
HEY GUY PHASE 2 TIMING VERY IMPORTANT
Thanks!
Curtis Reynolds thanks for the upload.....I'm doing timing on a 11 traverse everything is removed and at time to turn crank to set timing b4 removing once I crank it once it gets stuck....any ideal what it could be
What way are you cranking it? Clock wise from stage 2 to stage 1 will hit. Go counter clock wise. GL! :)
@@bethspetoskey3718 either way I turned it it would stop.....but I think I finally found the problme....timing on right head & crankshaft chains would jump and didnt notice that they were jumping
@@sadboy8413 I just did my timing last night. Found out my rod came apart just after starting. Gl on your repair. 👍
Back up the timing!!
What's the cost for this?
2k parts and labor
Can you use a impact gun
If someone was competent enough, yes.
@@BustedtoBuilt thanks for the help
Some.advice for do it yourself people don't do it like this use your stage one and stage two alignment and use the color links
In most cases it will fire up that don’t mean the timing is correct I’ve seen that many times timing looked off to me on bank 1
Thanks for watching!
Impressive time on the removal of that engine... This is the first time I've seen this done without taking car to align the crankshaft to either of the timing marks... I cringed a bit as you forced the cam phaser into alignment and skipped the teeth.
I think everyone does lol, thanks for watching!
So.... How much?
$2k
@@mph5896 do you recommend doing anything besides the oil pump while you're in there? Do you like one timing chain set over another? What type do you typically put in?
@@phataj2 I used Ac Delco parts on the last one I did. Available on Rockauto or other places.
I've been told you can't do it in car and that you have to drop the engine out to change it.
Well they likely aren't in a position to know if they themselves have never tried it. I would venture to say 1 out of every 4 of these is done in the car because the party repairing does not have the tools to remove the motor. I have seem multiple chains done in car on this 3.6. Is it a good investment of time? No.
4 when the car is worn out the timing chain is to get rid of the car and get another one
Can lead a horse to water
Its already in stage 1 & 2 timing 🤷
Anyway I can have u get ahold of me on Facebook
Not on fb
i can see why no body changes oil, the engine would last way over 200000 miles if it was changed every 5000 miles, theres nothing wrong with the 3.6 engines its the owners
The owners are the root of most problems. People are just used to the level of ignorance they have gotten away with on vehicles of the past and manufacturers are taking advantage of that
Disagree! While there are plenty of boneheaded owners neglecting timely oil changes, there are far too many GM 3.6 V6s out there with identical issues. And when they get torn into, they all look the same, i.e. oil sludge, burnt oil, and bank 2 is almost always in worse condition than bank 1. GM even acknowledged the issue when they stated the problem had been resolved for the 2011 model year.
Well thanks for the traffic but I have multiple customers over 250k miles on original engine and chains that keep up on service. I agree that the rear bank will always be worse just because of the ventilation system. The chains I see failing are the vehicles that get one oil change a year and the level never gets checked after that
@@BustedtoBuilt yea that’s true because my cousin has the same 2011 traverse like me and I have 200000 miles and no problems and I change my oil every 5000 and I check level every 2 weeks and he has 150000 miles and done got a new engine and hardly changes oil and never checks.
Different experiences for everyone. Appreciate your feedback!
lessons from all of this...don't ever buy a GM 3.6L high feature engined car...garbage.
You hit the nail on the head
Lol or just change oil every 4-5000 with high quality oil/filter, and do ALL the recommended maintenance. These engines will last 200-250km on first set when looked after.
@@ROSSCO2250 I have an ly7 commodore with over 300k km on it. Never done the chains. Just serviced on time all the time.
Go electric. :-)
Thanks for watching!
08 SATURN VUE 3.6 4 SALE FLLUK THAT JOB
Is this the same for the 3.6 in a 2006 STS?
I believe so