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GM 2.8/3.0/3.2/3.6L Timing Chain Replacement Repair, Cloyes 9-0753S
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2024
- 🔥 This technical video from Cloyes covers the removal and installation of the timing drive system for General Motors HFV6 (High-Feature) 2.8/3.0/3.2/3.6L engine. This is the second video in a two-part series. Watch the first video here: • GM 2.8/3.0/3.2/3.6L Ti...
⚠️ IMPORTANT INSTALLATION NOTE: ⚠️
You must activate the secondary tensioners after installation.
CLIP REMOVAL DOES NOT ACTIVATE THE TENSIONERS!
See our tech note here: www.cloyes.com...
🔧 Like what you see? Why not Join Shop Masters, our community for mechanics and techs who love what they do, take pride in their work, and are always looking to improve their skills. It’s free to join, and as a member you’ll get early access to all sorts of helpful videos. Visit www.cloyes.com... to see what it’s all about.
⛓ Part numbers related to this video are: 9-0753S, 9-0753SVVT, 9-0753SX, 9-5530, 9-5531, 9-5532, 9-5533, 9-5534, 9-5535, 9-5536, 9-5537, 9-5548, C753, C754, S921, S930, S932, VC108, VC109, VC110, VTS108
⚙️ Please see our online catalog at www.cloyes.com... for full details and to confirm vehicle fitment.
🚗 Application coverage ranges from the model years 2006-2021 and the following vehicles:
Buick Allure
Buick Enclave
Buick LaCrosse
Cadillac ATS
Cadillac CTS
Cadillac SRX
Cadillac STS
Cadillac XTS
Chevrolet Camaro
Chevrolet Caprice
Chevrolet Captiva Sport
Chevrolet Colorado
Chevrolet Equinox
Chevrolet Impala
Chevrolet Impala Limited
Chevrolet Malibu
Chevrolet Traverse
GMC Acadia
GMC Acadia Limited
GMC Canyon
GMC Terrain
Pontiac G6
Pontiac G8
Pontiac Torrent
Saab 9-3
Saab 9-4X
Saab 9-5
Saturn Aura
Saturn Outlook
Saturn Vue
Suzuki Grand Vitara
Suzuki XL-7
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
why cant more maintenance videos be this straight forward and clear?!
You left out an extremely important step at the end, before putting the covers back on. Rotate the engine by hand very slowly making sure there is no interference to verify you got the timing lined up properly. Finding this out after you put it together and crank it will ruin your whole year.
Yeah, when i watch eric the car guy, thats what he did. i wonder why it isnt included on this video.
@@ninjazzrhythm400 if you check the comments, they are recommending that it not be done for fear the chain will jump. I think I'd turn the crank around to verify clearance, then turn it back and see if the marks are still aligned. I wouldn't just trust that it's all timed properly and crank under power.
Or get you a few more cases of beer when you need to do the rebuild 😂😉🤔
@Rick West, If He had told you to Check that the Flat sides on the back of the Cams are up and Parallel with the top of the Head when the Crankshaft gear is at the 8 O'clock position, then your Motor Wouldn't be Ruined.. This is a Good Video that is WITHOUT the Main Instructions to Be Sure that your Timing is Correct BEFORE You Ever Loosen a Bolt after your Covers are Off (Plenum, Valve Covers, Timing Cover).. Thanks
@@rickwest2818 I don’t see how the chains would jump if you pulled all the tensioner pins and everything was on. It’d be virtually impossible.
This video was THEE most helpful in getting through this job!
Even still, 4 years later Mr. Smith is still answering emails!
Excellent customer service! 👌🏾 Cloyes for the win! 🏆
Thanks for the kind words. Peace and Love!
This guy did a tremendous job he made everything seem simple and eaay going good teacher thank u again brother
@@Cloyes01 Sir could you be so kind to convey if cylinder number 1 is top dead center at stage 2 position or stage 1. Thank you 🙂
@@wildwoodtop Number 1 cylinder is at TDC at stage 1 timing.
Anyone that is doing this job along with removing the heads to replace bent valves, don't just assume the chain skipped some teeth due to being stretched causing valve to piston contact. Remove the cam actuators(phasers) from the cams and inspect the locating pins in the actuators and the slot in the cam that the pin fits into for shear damage.
I just bought a 2006 Cadillac SRX with the 3.6L with 129K miles and all the exhaust valves on the passenger bank were bent so I assumed that cam had jumped some teeth. I pulled both heads, replaced the bent valves and did a valve job on both heads. I got the heads back on and started timing the engine with the new timing set and all was fine until I got to the stage 2 timing for the right bank cams. The intake cam lined up just right with the colored link on the chain but the exhaust cam sprocket was about 40 degrees rotated clockwise. I put a wrench on the actuator bolt to turn it back for the marks to line up and with very little pressure, the bolt came loose. I knew these are torqued at 43lb ft so this was weird it cam loose so easily so I went ahead and removed the bolt and took the actuator off and I saw what actually caused the valve damage. The actuator had spun on the cam and the locating pin was laid over sideways and the hole for the pin and the slot was totally wallowed out and from the damage to the actuator, it was clear that the actuator had spun many revolutions independent of the cam. I can't imagine how this happened unless the bolt was not torqued properly at the factory or if maybe the timing chains and guides had been replaced before and a mechanic loosened and then forgot the tighten it back.
This is probably a very rare occurrence but it's still worth the time to remove the actuators and check the pins if your engine has bent valves.
Thanks for the tip. How long did it take you to replace the chain, I know you did heads also. I am trying to come up with a price to give my friend to replace the chain. Thanks
John, Alldata calls for 10.3 hours to do the job. I think that's about right.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Duc Rider
Duc Rider how do you know if it was bent valveswithout taking the head off
Excellent video. Straight, to the point and easy to understand. As a professional mechanic I appreciate that. And Cloyes is a leader in timing products.
I think I bought a Cloyes double roller timing chain for my Pontiac 400 thirty three years ago. It was adjustable. Not one but three off set key slots cut into the crank sprocket. Providing multiple combinations of cam TDC settings. You could really dial in your engine for power. I learned how to degree cams for the first time on that engine. Thank you. Cloyes!
Back in the day I installed one into my my 69 400 RA GTO engine, had it tach'd out on a corner and tossed the cam out the oilpan.. I had just put in a rebuilt 4 speed where the builder used Jeep bearings, said they were tad noisier but stronger, I had thought the trany blew, coasted a mile home from inertia, when got home looked under and saw cam chunk hanging out pan.. the chain was broke, had a crane fireball cam and must have touched a valve using that 3 degree mark, never did find exact reason engine was destroyed.. got heads redone, kept those, still on shelf.. car long gone.. if they had those cameras on a cable back then could have checked clearance, must have been close.. putty and wasting gaskets sounded like a waste, wish had done it now...
Great video, I just completed the timing chains on my cts. Your video was very helpful for chain installation. Its a big job for a diy guy but it beats the $3600 shop bill. Thanks for the vid
Mr. Grider, did you have to pull the engine out of the vehicle or were you able to do it all under the hood?
@@jayclarke2434 the guy said you do not have to pull the engine from the vehicle
Did my '10 Buick Lacrosse with 3.0l v6 in frame wasn't bad at all!...i was down to the chains In about 45mins but beware guys that right bank is gonna give you the blues because the timing marks are ever so slightly off...and the phasers are gonna want to roll on you you!...its best to get the camshaft retainers to hold the cams still while you degree the marks!...other than that pretty easy job!...
Cloyes is my go to for timing jobs . Thank you for keeping it simple !
Good video to watch before doing the timing chain job. I did the chains in the car. It was a 2008 Buick Enclave. It wasn’t too bad to do. Hardest part was removing the vibration dampener. I had a second person to help me install the chains for about 30 minutes to make sure the chains were lined up correctly.
Cant Thank you guy enough. I walked through this step by step with this video. Glad you guys did it.
Doug, were you able to do this job while the engine was still in the vehicle or did you need to pull it out?
Jay Clarke definitely you can do it with engine on
I have seen a lot of video's and people comment and says the best ever ...now I know why ...the best and easiest show and tell ever ...super simple u are the MAN
Thanks for the great review. Appreciate it!
***EXCELLENT*** Should be more top end videos like this... video should be sold with product.. dvd..for dummies like me... thank you..
Great video, thanks. Was about to purchase a VE Holden that has the 3.6ltr with the troublesome timing chain, but you have helped talk me out of it. I am a former mechanic and can do this job myself, but life's too short to be dealing with a GM's penny pinching engineering.
Penny pinching? What other NA engine in Australia gets 210 kW out of 3.6 litres?
4lt
Cloyes is the only timing kits I use for anything..high quality nothing beats it👍
My experience also, going back to small & big block chevy race motors in the 70's. Cloyes is the most reliable chain drive out there.
The fact this video has a million views speaks volumes. Both to quality of the video and kit, and GM's design flaws. I have a Cadillac CTS with a 2.8L, I'll be buying this kit and installing it on a 3.6L to put in my car, and the failed 2.8L to recoup some of my expenses. Great vid👍
Best explanation I've seen on here explaining the 3.6. and the chunk the rachet at the end.(dropped mic) just made it that much better lol. Thanks very helpful bud
Wow this video made it look so easy , ive seen over 20 videos on how to properly get the timing marks intact , below 👇 i saw some comments regsrding rotating the crank just to be sure u have no interference and i actually have to agree 👍 on that thanks guys 😅
Thanks, Cody Smith, for a very informative and instructional video. Every critical point was covered including reference to torque settings on every one of the bolts.
The demonstration appeared to have been done on an engine set up for the purpose, so that time could be saved, and the 8.42 minute video showed just what was necessary.
If someone required the use of a torque-wrench to be demonstrated, I am sure they could find classes elsewhere for that.
Very complicated timing setup. GM didn't make this one easy, but you guys made it look simple.
Very common issue on these! if you get a p0017 p0018 p0019 you probably have a stretched chain. the Ecotec 2.2 and 2.4. also have timing chain issues.. first sign is a rattling noise on a cold start. Great video!!
I got a P0506 Low Idle Speed
thank god for this. i couldnt figure out why bank two wasnt right until i seen him change sprocket location by rotating crank.life saving info
All that hard work and now you have to buy a new tool - after dropping it haha!
Good tutorial. Thanks a mill for this!
Cheers mate since my engine has nothing hanging off it like this one it was a very simple guide...
You made this way simpler then the other videos out there . thanks for the video helped out allot
Cody you the man! I watched this video like 10 times before I did this repair myself with this Cloyes kit and it worked Amazing! Car runs super smooth and quiet. Thanks again for the great tutorial video. 😎🤙👍🏽
How did it go? I have an Acadia that needs this done. How much time did it take you?
@@bmo5082 patience is key with this repair, it took me 3 days and about 18 hours total. I replaced valve cover gaskets,front timing cover seals, pcv valve..etc. Anything that I came across including spark plugs. I made this repair in the vehicle too so work space is limited.Key points when removing the timing chains 3x check your marks and leave your Rear cams chain on phasers until ready to swap for new one- this helps keep your 10 tooth count spacing, even then you may need to back up the very rear phaser a little. Other than than just clear everything out of the way ..every inch helps. Lastly when removing the P/s resevoir be careful it's super brittle lol I broke mine and had to order a new one. Happy safe wrenching and take your time especially when siliconing the front timing cover back on. Thanks
@@lilwrencher7996 thanks for all the good info. Do you still think the Acadia is a good car except for this issue?
We can install these kits in Australia/Vic if anyone needs them swapped!! Good work Cloyes!
@Adrian Byers $999
Great video. Helped me replace the chains in my 2010 Acadia. As an added note because I found out the hard way, you may need to buy a new gasket and bolts for the water pump if you’re pulling your timing cover. Got the motor back together and was running well but started overheating. The water pump bolts to the outside of the timing cover. According to GM those bolts are a one time use and are supposed to be torqued to yield. I couldn’t find just the bolts so ended up having to buy a whole new pump.
New Bolts Required, New Torque Specification on HFV6 Water Pump
July 2, 2012
A new water pump fastening procedure has been implemented on all High Feature V6 engines (2.8L, 3.0L, and 3.6L) on all models (2004-2013 model years) to help reduce the potential for water pump gasket leaks. This new procedure requires NEW bolts to be used when attaching a water pump. It also requires a third pass with an additional 45 degree turn when tightening the bolts.
The new torque procedure puts the bolts into yield, so the bolts MUST be replaced when they are removed. Old/reused bolts will break if reinstalled. The following procedure applies to all model years and all RPOs of the HFV6 engine.
1. Ensure that the engine front cover and water pump are clear of old gasket material.
2. Ensure that the water pump mounting bolt holes in the front cover are completely clean and dry.
3. Place a new water pump gasket on the water pump.
4. Place the water pump in position on the front cover.
5. Install the water pump bolts finger tight.
6. Tighten the water pump bolts in sequence to 10 N·m (89 lb. in.).
7. Tighten the water pump bolts a second pass in sequence to 10 N·m (89 lb. in.).
8. Tighten the bolts a final pass in the sequence shown an additional 45 degrees.
It is worth noting that all 4 cam phasers have both the L and R timing marks and if the engine has lots of varnish or is just dirty the L or R will be very hard to see. The video does not show the close up of the right cam phasers. On the engine I did this on, the right hand bank timing marks were little triangles and the left hand marks were little dots. Cloyes, It would be a good idea to be very specific about this point due to all the phasers having both sets of marks. Other than that, a very informative video and easy to understand.
Huge tip and frankly the golden rule of timing belts or chains, turn the motor over 2 revolutions and check for any resistance.
after seeing this video my husband bought a cloyes timing set. great vid
VIDEO IS INCOMPLETE! What is shown is correct, HOWEVER, when the video talks about setting stage 1 and 2 timing. During this step MAKE SURE the flat side of the rear of each camshaft is facing UP, otherwise you will not find the timing marks in the locations shown in the video. It makes the whole process much more complicated trying to figure out how to properly line the marks up once the chains are off
Thanks for this... I tore my motor apart 2 months ago due to a seized crank and while I could have scatched my head and done this by reading the book, this video got it back together in a few mins. Thanks!!
Did you have any issue with the cams being off
@@usdibaby35 Nope
Was there any damage due to the seized crank, this has happened to my 3.0 terrain. I have the heads off, only damage i see so far is teeth on sprockets…a few are shiny. Once I got the passenger side head off i could spin crank. Quite perplexed at the moment
@kmican My crank was trashed. She ran it out of oil. Needed 3 rods and I had the crank milled .030 undersized.
That was very clear and a great demonstration of how to replace the timing chains, timing chain stretching it is a common problem with the VZ VE & VF series, here in Australia thank you for that guide now i can an idea what to do cheers.
Thank you for the video. Got the kit with everything included. Saved me lots of time from going to Alldata to look for timing marks, and procedures then printing them out. Only thing I had to look up was the timing cover torque sequence and spec. 👍
Luv your work ! Simple, step by step, accurate and professionally done.
Good video. Thanks. It's no wonder the GM car plants are shutting down. If it's not the broken wave plate in the transmission that fails , it's the timing chain, and or both. Plus the corrosion eating holes in the timing chain cover too. You answered a lot of questions I would have in the comments below. Thanks.
This video made the job much easier for me. Thanks again for the Video and for the customer service! The Cloyes Kit fit perfectly and was exactly as described. I do wish it came with all new bolts for the timing components but that is no big deal.
Sería bien que lo traduzcan al castellano
I wish I could start job with timing cover already removed.
Maybe, I just got a friends Acadia that was towed to the stealership after losing power, and failing to restart. They have disassembled the entire top end. All in boxes. I have no idea which cam is which or what bolt goes where- it’s a great big jigsaw puzzle. They wanted to replace the engine for 8k. So yeah? I don’t know that it’s better...
@@jonhunt5408 lol same 8k for engine at dealer, car is worth like 5k, and now probably less than 1k since it doesnt start
This is by far the best video is there is on 3.6l engines
A thousand thanks to you, my brother. Shefferlet's car. And the Marki
I come back to this video every couple of months to do another one of these. My only suggestion is PLEASE mention that you need the "R"s on the right bank at the top before removing the timing components. Every single one I've done has already been on the 1TDC stroke. The most recent one on an 06 Cadillac was on the opposite stroke, so when I removed the chain I was shocked when a cam jumped half way around. You MUST have the "R"s on the right bank at the top before removing the components. It seems like a no brainer, but if you just open the video and go without thinking about it you could very easily bend some valves. It is extremely difficult to retime it properly to get it to the correct stages once the chain is removed.
Hello Cheddarwedge,
I did the same thing when following the video, after removing the tensioner and chain the right bank VVT camshafts sprung inwards and know the "R"s are facing down!! Can you please advise how you managed to get it back in the upward position? Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
Ron
@@ronaldwhitmore175 It was mostly a guessing game when I did it. If I remember correctly, I kept coming to this video to see the orientation of the CMP pickup on the phasers in regards to the timing marks on both banks. Keep in mind the crank turns twice for a single cam turn, So the marks on the right bank should be 180 degrees from where they are in the video/correct position at the start. Get the chain as close as you can to "right," then go to the correct position.
Thank you very much,. Great tutorial,. I purchased this exact kit
Thank you, I'm doing one right now- your video is excellent
U did a good job explaing this is one of the best video online thank u so much
very helpful video, was my first time doing chains on this engine, i brought the cam lockers but found they wernt needed. thanks for a great video
Ha ha, me too. You need them, I guess, if you remove the pulleys from the camshafts, to stop the camshafts turning?
I ended up buying them myself. You need them if you wanna pull the phasers off, so you can undo the nut, without pulling the camshafts out. They are handy to hold the camshafts in place while you hang the timing chains too, although the marks are clear, and you could go without.
Silly me for thinking a Ford 4.0 SOHC was bad. Thank you Cloyes for the great info and a good product!
timing chain behind the flywheel
I never appreciated this enough. Helped me and all the Alloytec lovers I know. Totally solid video.
Worked out perfect...better than ProDemand instructions. Great video!
I make those at work... chain assembly but I'm a metal finisher... I get the links pins n plates bushings n rolls. Interesting process.
Timing marks are near impossible to see in the vehicle. A borescope is a handy tool to have in this job. Thanks for the video I did this job less than two years ago now I'm putting your chain in there.
This is the best video I saw about this. Thanks a lot.
Thanks buddy, very quick, super simple video I followed step by step and job now done! Really appreciate your vid mate, super helpful media.
Great video & thanks for posting. Sure is A LOT easier with the engine on a stand!!
THIS WAS VERY HELPFUL THANK YOU !
Thank You for one of the best instructional videos! This is extremely helpful! I didn't bend any valves or install it incorrectly! Thanks again Cloyes!!!!!
This is a very helpful for anyone and save time. Thank you !!!!
one of the best instructional videos ive seen :) only thing how much tension on the bolt for the crank sprocket in the middle bottom?
Very nice Video Guys..detailed & to the point...thanks!!!!!
thanks for making it easy!
Great explanation best video I have seen about changing the timing chain
Great video!
You made my life a little easier today.
Great video. Helpful and it's not that difficult to do. Thanks agai.
Tip: firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6. Cylinder order is (1-3-5) Passenger side bank, (2-4-6) DS. Rotate engine cw until at tdc #1 cylinder and alignment of the crankshaft primary chain timing mark for the right bank camshaft secondary timing chain, or 8 o’clock marks (driver seat orientation).
the markings make it so easy
You should provide tips to torque the case cover and stuff back, and gaskets etc upgrades.
Don't over tighten the bolts or they will break off. That's my tip of the day. ;-)
G8 forum has the full manual for free, through a "media fire" link
Pull the pin to activate the grenade lol. Good video
Was that 18 lbs ft.? Great video. Who picked up the wrench?
Thanks the factory service information was super confusing even for a quadruple master certified tech. I really like the video and will be sharing it with the students.
At least it has a chain, not a rubber belt, but a single is an inadequate cost cutting measure by the manufacturer. Parts suppliers must love it.
Thank you so much. This is exactly what I needed.
Video was a life saver! Thank you!
Very good and descriptive video!!
Did it the exact same way and I keep getting timing codes!...did the job twice!...i used the camshaft locks and positioned the marks to stage 2 then rotated to stage 1
Get the software update from dealer
Dropping a wrench sounds far more satisfying.
I replaced my original chains (190k) with a set from S_____ P____. They were stretched far worse than the originals after only 20k. No discernible wear on anything except chain stretch and one of the tensioners extended well beyond the ratchet. Hope the Cloyes do better.
Should stress identification of the cam timing marks - Circles for Left bank, Triangles for the Right.
Nice torque wrench ya' got there...
Big “be careful” comment! While it isn’t mentioned in detail in the video, make sure that you pay attention to the lower idler sprockets. They CAN BE INSTALLED REVERSED and will look correct if you go only by the markings on them. The large washer side must go towards the block. Try it (only to check the markings) if you don’t believe me.
If you get them backwards (swapping left for right), when you get to the last few bolts on the timing cover you will end up with a large hole in the cover!!! This is because of the special bolts used to hold the sprockets down. The bolt will sit up about 3mm too far - just far enough to not notice until it’s too late.
This is correct! We are working on a supplement video and will touch on this topic.
You Can line the Crank gear at 8 O'clock with the Cams 180 degrees Out .. The Detail that the Flat Spots on the Back of the Cams will be Up and Level with the Head Surface WAS Left Out of your "Professional Explanation" Great Job "WingNut" !!
If the cams are 180 degrees out, then the marks on the camshaft phasers will be 180 degrees out as well. The phasers are all indexed onto the cams with dowels. You can reference those flat camshaft features or the marks on the phasers as we do in the video.
@@Cloyes01, In a 3.6 High Feature V6 that Has No Mark's on the chain at the Cam Gear Location (Like Mine), You Must know the Tip that Can STILL Make the Engine Run.. And that IS that at the 8 o'clock position Bank One cams will Have the Flats parallel with the Top of the Head, and also Bank Two at the 5 o'clock Position, those Cam Flats will Be Parallel as Well.. Poor Video with No torque wrench Even Used in the Opinion of This Mechanic of Many Years experience.. Thanks
How can people dislike? Best video ever! Thanks!
Thanks for this. Bought the kit because of this video.
How much was it, and how long to do the job with motor in the car?
Great video! Loved the breaker bar drop!
I love this video it was very helpful thank you !!!
Awesome video!!👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👍🏾
ME SIrvio muchisimo, GRACIAS
I see you do low torques specs like i do. 18 ft lbs? just a little past snug. Nice video. Building a 3.6 now. I have watched your video 4 or 5 times and am impressed with the detail but lack of long windedness. Thank you.
Great Video, Love your torque wrench.
Great tutorial. Just did mine but instead of aftermarket parts I used ac delco ones. Mine jumped a few 🦷 didn’t hit valves or anything
On how many miles?
Mine broke the chain the ly7 engine is 0 interference and acdelco oem parts are failing still cloyes kits seem to be lasting longer just my 2 cents
Great video.
Did your breaker bar click when it was at 43 ft lbs?
just perfect instruction thanks
I’ve made so much money at my dealer thanks to these timing chains wearing
@Richard Skipper wouldn't 0w40 void the warranty? That oil is pretty thick so at temp it would have a hard time lubricating in between tight tolerances correct?
@@ryanchristensen1799 0W40 is a zero weight oil like 0W20 it just had more viscosity change with heat, and the oil gets smoking on these engines
@@bikerdave19148 oh ok gotchya, what about the 3.6 lfx motors in camaros?
@Richard Skipper it has nothing to do with no doing routine oil changes. That's just the excuse GM uses to not pay for their faulty equipment and I expect to see a lawsuit over this in the future.
Hi Cody.
Thanks for the video. I have done 2 since I first saw it. But some advice. The camshafts in this video have been locked with a keeper plate. You dont mention it. If we are doing this in the car it is really difficult to get the timing right. Watch Mellings video and you will see what I mean. And again, thanks for the video.
Hi John. We did this video without the special camshaft locking tools. They are not necessary to complete the job, but I would agree they may make the job easier. The whole point of the 2 different crankshaft stages is to position the camshafts where they are at rest on each bank. If you follow the procedure exactly, the camshafts will not move when the chains are removed.
When we use special tools in our videos we definitely show them and give details. But when the job can be done properly without them we will always opt to show that process.
You can see on this video that the exhaust camshaft on bank 1 did move when the chain was removed
Good job Cody
Did you forget to mention the special camshaft lock tools so the camshafts doesn't slam back during assembly? They do install on the back of camshafts so you might not can see them ?
No, we did not use the special camshaft holding tools for this installation. The tools are available, and may prevent the camshafts from slightly moving when the chains are removed; however, they are not required. The idea behind the two stages of timing is to position the camshafts on each bank where they are at rest before the chains are removed. This prevents the camshafts from moving when the chains are removed, effectively eliminating the need for the holding tools.
Ahaa! I was wondering why you did the two stage process. Perhaps a few words towards that feature of the process would have been enlightening . Good video anyhow.
Step 1 yank engine & trans then take to scrap yard. Step 2 install a carbureted sbc & trans from the 60s-90s era. Step 3 take a picture and send it to GM and tell em this is how they should have done it. Ill take fabbing the engine mounts, cross member and driveshaft over that timing job any day.
So you'd rather do an engine swap to a weaker motor, that gets worse gas mileage, that doesn't last as long, that requires more maintenance, that's more finicky and sensitive to atmospheric conditions, than pull your front cover off and replace $300 worth of parts in about 20 minutes? I can see you're fairly committed to the opinion that they were better back in the day.
After the mid 2000s everything focused on being cheap (aka unreliable) and your description of a Gen 1 sbc is all wrong fyi and good luck doing this job in 20 mnutes as it takes 6 hours to remove the engine from the car before you can start.
@@fastindy
Thank you guys it's helped me a lot thank you thank you
Cool vid, but would've liked to see which sprocket to line up in correlation to circle and triangle. Also is there a reason you rotated counter clockwise to get to stage 1 vs clockwise?
Think i just figured it out. Pass side triangles and drivers side circles.
Very informative.
Great video, I know this is going to sound stupid, and it is
What to do? when the mechanic doesn't follow the Do not touch oil pump guide, just replace the nylon. It starts and at 20 seconds oil pressure drops
If the pump is "old(er)" just replace it. I'd also drop the pan and pull the pick up tube. There's a seal where the p/u tube attaches to the block - replace it. Check for debris in the screen. Replace it if there's any doubt. That's a starting point anyhow.
Nice torque wrench 😉
I saw that you don't recommend rotating the engine by hand after replacement - what if I did?
When rotating by hand there is a small chance of the chain jumping out of time due to the lack of oil pressure in the tensioners and the valve spring pressures affecting the camshafts. This is the only reason we advise against it. Chances are you will have no issues.
Gotcha. Thanks!
At the moment you begin to start an engine, the oil pressure is zero as well. I wouldn't risk not turning it by hand personally.