Timing is exceptional as I decide how to build a larder cupboard for my kitchen! Thank you! PS: Always good to see that a pro can make mistakes. Thanks for making us feel not so bad. :)
I was just thinking I haven't seen any content from you recently, and up this pops - Happy New Year and welcome back Peter ! Frankly I'd settle for one of your bad days Peter, nice result and great tips as usual, I hate it when a blade breaks, it ALWAYS makes me jump !
Hi Peter, Good and honest nothing to hide plus mistakes I get those day's as well in my case measure once cut twice and it's still too short..... Good build with those drawer's ,the workshop is always changing it keeps on evolving. As always a great video, Take care
Stored temporarily for three years!!🤣🤣 I've got "stuff" temporarily stored for the past 20 years. Good job Peter. Sometimes wonder with the strength of adhesives these days what's the point of joints.I want to thank you for one of your past videos making cupboards for alcoves, it got me out of a hole as I was refurbing my front room and I would have had to wait almost a year for a chippy to build the cupboards. Took a while but got there in the end
Thanks! I’ve made some of this style of drawer box with just glue and they’re holding up just fine. Last run of plywood workshop cabinets were just glued together. 👍
At my son's school, there are little u-shaped door stops,made from 18mm birch ply. might look makeshift to the the other parents, but every time I walk by that door, I'm thinking, that's an expensive door stop right there. thanks for the video Peter!
'I'll just make some drawers with offcuts and damaged flooring'....= Great looking drawers much better than my efforts that took bloody hours. At least I followed your guide right at the beginning and cut down the wrong bits, that I got 100% right.....:)
Have to say, it is fabulous. I was prepared to be disappointed - and let’s be honest, it still needs a mains cable - but it doesn’t everything I’ve asked. 👌👍
It's very good; I had so many people say that it cant be any good because it doesn't have above-table dust port, but it does extremely well with the through-table extraction, especially on non-through cuts ie when you don't have the crown guard. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I tempted even though I don't use a table saw. It does seem to be useful for a few particular cuts and, I suspect, like many things once you have it you will find more and more uses for it. A nuisance that you have to commit to several very expensive batteries that aren't needed for anything else (all my other Festool's are wired). I think I will wait for a mains version before reconsidering.
I was going to ask if you used a rip blade instead of an ATB blade on the little tablesaw to avoid giving the rebates a crinkled floor, but then you tidied up the crinkles with the router table.
Hi Peter nice reuse of the sign and combo with the damaged oak, just wondered have you ever ventured into the application of applying veneer to plywood as a more sustainable use of materials
Cheers Dan. No, the sliding table is excellent. The mitre gauge is pretty loose in the slot, but it locks nice and tight, so no issues there as they clearly intend the sliding table to be used. 👍
I noticed you stick to plywood for your drawers for the most part instead of MDF. The only exception, at least in your published videos, might be the "Big Job/Cabinet/Shelves" series where they appear to be made out of MDF. I say "might" because I haven't found the video in which you actually made them, only the install. Would you recommend MDF for cabinet drawers just as well, or is plywood the better choice (not considering painting)? If yes to MDF, what would be the "standard" sheet thickness of choice? 12 mm frame + 6 mm bottom, just as plywood? 18 mm, like for the carcass, feels a bit chunky to me for < 70 cm drawers.
I've made drawers out of MDF occasionally, very early on, but switched to using Birch plywood because it looked better and was easier to finish. Doesn't hurt that it's stronger too. A bit pricey now, but still me preference.If I had to go with MRMDF, then I'd go with 15mm all round, 12mm for the base, unless you could guarantee it was only being lightly loaded.. 👍
I think a 12mm gap all round could become the new norm, no more problems with doors binding, drawers sticking. Peter, you've cracked a centuries old problem.
I would love to see a colab ~ ish with skills like Paul Sellars and modern cab making like yourself. Obviously differnent worlds and different skills, but even as recent American TV series show there is a good TV from comparing skills for TV (not suggestiing there is much realtity, but just good TV)
Brilliant use of scraps. Got to use a 12' leftover tongue and grove board from a Eagle Scout Project I helped with, to build my wife a drying frame for her knitting the other day as well. But my shop had lots more sawdust than yours. 🤣🤣🤣
Whats the best place to buy the little plastic sorting boxes? After a quick google I'm getting places popping up who charge around £8 to £10 for just 1 single tiny plastic box, which would get ridiculous if you're filling a load of drawers!😅
Don’t know tbh - mine are all ancient, and I don’t think Festool make the coloured ones any more. I did a quick google and had prices popping on from 50p to a few quid each, so maybe try a few different searches? Or if you want a full set then there’s this type of thing - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264082342291?var=563633124313&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338365712&toolid=20006&customid=EB180574995& 👍
Hi Peter. Quick question on your compressor. What size do you have, as I am looking to invest in one to change out my 240v nailer for a compressed air one. Thanks for the content you produce, and the clarity on when things are gifted with out obligation, not many youtubers are as transparent as you! Cheers, James.
Hey Peter, would you ever consider making drawers completely out of MDF? I've tried and failed a couple of times thinking it's just not the right material for that sort of thing but just wanted to check if I'm missing something?
I’ve made a few for myself and honestly they’ve been fine, but for client work I used Birch ply because it was strong and looked nicer, and when UA-cam came along the same reasons applied. 👍
Obviously, you've done a few of these before, but did I see you hand feeding your table saw past the edge of the blade? I thought this was a kickback no no. I always enjoy watching you work and listening to your descriptions. Thank you.
So kickback happens in one of two ways; when natural tension in a board is released on cutting (usually a rip cut ie with the grain) and this release of tension creates movement in the material that pinches the blade, turning it into a wheel that throws the wood back at you. Or the user skews the workpiece as they push it through the blade, pinching it between the blade and the fence, with the same result. The riving knife is there to prevent the first from happening - it literally stops a workpiece from closing up enough to pinch the blade. And for the second the material has to be thick enough to cause it to be trapped instead of cut, which is what the blade will always want to do. So, riving knife is always fitted on this saw - you will never seem me using a tablesaw without one - and blade guard / crown guard in place wherever possible, so the risk of kickback and injury is already severely reduced. There are two instances where I feed the work through the saw by hand in this video; the first it to strip the tongue off the floorboard, so zero chance of kickback through pinching, possibly through skewing the work, which is why I did this by hand instead of using push sticks. Normally you’d use two, one to push the work forward and hold it down into the table bed, and the other to apply pressure against the fence. But because I’m only ripping the tongue off the board, there’s nothing for the push stick to grab. The other instance was with 6mm ply; again, zero chance of kickback through pinching, and very little through skewing the work as 6mm ply will almost always be cut rather than trap the blade, especially with a newish blade like this one. I also didn’t want to use push sticks with the ply as it was actually quite bowed, so needed pressure applying in different areas. Sorry, short question but long answer as ‘pushing the wood past the blade causes kickback’ is an oversimplification. Hope that makes sense. P 👍
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Ahh, Birch Ply. The stuff of legends.
As much myth as legend these days
Was gonna say "using up offcuts of birch ply" is like saying "I'm just making these L brackets out of some left over gold I have lying around"
Timing is exceptional as I decide how to build a larder cupboard for my kitchen! Thank you! PS: Always good to see that a pro can make mistakes. Thanks for making us feel not so bad. :)
Thanks! 👍
Welcome back Peter. Hope you had a good Christmas- you have been missed 🎉
Thanks Stephen!
Great video looks really good fromte front Peter.
I was just thinking I haven't seen any content from you recently, and up this pops - Happy New Year and welcome back Peter !
Frankly I'd settle for one of your bad days Peter, nice result and great tips as usual, I hate it when a blade breaks, it ALWAYS makes me jump !
Haha! I have a few to spare Andy! 😂👍
Awesome work, Peter! Thanks a bunch for all the tips!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too! 👍
Hi Peter, Good and honest nothing to hide plus mistakes I get those day's as well in my case measure once cut twice and it's still too short..... Good build with those drawer's ,the workshop is always changing it keeps on evolving. As always a great video, Take care
Thanks Shaun! 👍
Stored temporarily for three years!!🤣🤣 I've got "stuff" temporarily stored for the past 20 years. Good job Peter. Sometimes wonder with the strength of adhesives these days what's the point of joints.I want to thank you for one of your past videos making cupboards for alcoves, it got me out of a hole as I was refurbing my front room and I would have had to wait almost a year for a chippy to build the cupboards. Took a while but got there in the end
Thanks! I’ve made some of this style of drawer box with just glue and they’re holding up just fine. Last run of plywood workshop cabinets were just glued together. 👍
Hi Peter. Love your work 👍
Thank you! Cheers! 👍
At my son's school, there are little u-shaped door stops,made from 18mm birch ply. might look makeshift to the the other parents, but every time I walk by that door, I'm thinking, that's an expensive door stop right there. thanks for the video Peter!
These days, certainly! 😀👍
Yes!!!! Welcome back.
Thank you! 👍
'I'll just make some drawers with offcuts and damaged flooring'....= Great looking drawers much better than my efforts that took bloody hours. At least I followed your guide right at the beginning and cut down the wrong bits, that I got 100% right.....:)
😂😂 It happens. Own need to find a project that needs 423mm wide drawers… 😬🤷♂️
You always make it look so easy 🎉🎉. I can see you’re enjoying that table saw 👍🏻. Another cracking little vid Peter.
Thanks! And yes, it’s a cracking little saw! 😀👍
As always, it's a great video. Love the mistakes. it makes me feel normal 😂
Thanks! 👍
I think they look great Peter
Thanks Christy! 👍
Beautiful front
Thanks! 👍
I'm in love with that little Festool table saw. It will be mine... oh yes... some day :-)
Have to say, it is fabulous. I was prepared to be disappointed - and let’s be honest, it still needs a mains cable - but it doesn’t everything I’ve asked. 👌👍
I like the 'loose tenon jig +' on the inside.
A step up from 'Fyffes' 😉😃
😂😂 Thanks. 👍
Dust collection on that little Festool saw is impressive.
It's very good; I had so many people say that it cant be any good because it doesn't have above-table dust port, but it does extremely well with the through-table extraction, especially on non-through cuts ie when you don't have the crown guard. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I tempted even though I don't use a table saw. It does seem to be useful for a few particular cuts and, I suspect, like many things once you have it you will find more and more uses for it.
A nuisance that you have to commit to several very expensive batteries that aren't needed for anything else (all my other Festool's are wired). I think I will wait for a mains version before reconsidering.
You need a wood burner like me, Peter. Even my mistakes become valuable as Coed Tan (firewood). 👍👍
I’d need to live elsewhere, unfortunately! 🤷♂️👍
Oak, just stands out in natural beauty....
Nothing fancy. Straight up box structure:)
It does! 👍
I was going to ask if you used a rip blade instead of an ATB blade on the little tablesaw to avoid giving the rebates a crinkled floor, but then you tidied up the crinkles with the router table.
Nice bit of contrast that
Thanks! 👍
Hi Peter nice reuse of the sign and combo with the damaged oak, just wondered have you ever ventured into the application of applying veneer to plywood as a more sustainable use of materials
I haven't no; I did veneer a little piece of MDF when I wanted a few drawer fascias - wasn't worth buying a whole sheet - but that's all. 👍
Nice video mate, i like the sliding table on the saw, does it have any play in it?
Cheers Dan. No, the sliding table is excellent. The mitre gauge is pretty loose in the slot, but it locks nice and tight, so no issues there as they clearly intend the sliding table to be used. 👍
Cheers
I noticed you stick to plywood for your drawers for the most part instead of MDF. The only exception, at least in your published videos, might be the "Big Job/Cabinet/Shelves" series where they appear to be made out of MDF. I say "might" because I haven't found the video in which you actually made them, only the install. Would you recommend MDF for cabinet drawers just as well, or is plywood the better choice (not considering painting)? If yes to MDF, what would be the "standard" sheet thickness of choice? 12 mm frame + 6 mm bottom, just as plywood? 18 mm, like for the carcass, feels a bit chunky to me for < 70 cm drawers.
I've made drawers out of MDF occasionally, very early on, but switched to using Birch plywood because it looked better and was easier to finish. Doesn't hurt that it's stronger too. A bit pricey now, but still me preference.If I had to go with MRMDF, then I'd go with 15mm all round, 12mm for the base, unless you could guarantee it was only being lightly loaded.. 👍
I think a 12mm gap all round could become the new norm, no more problems with doors binding, drawers sticking. Peter, you've cracked a centuries old problem.
Half-inch shy - could be a whole new movement! 😂👍
Have you done a video on circ saw blades? tooth count, kerf width etc?
Only specifically relating to plunge saws, all parting the Tracksaw workshop series, in the playlists. 👍
I would love to see a colab ~ ish with skills like Paul Sellars and modern cab making like yourself.
Obviously differnent worlds and different skills, but even as recent American TV series show there is a good TV from comparing skills for TV (not suggestiing there is much realtity, but just good TV)
Brilliant use of scraps. Got to use a 12' leftover tongue and grove board from a Eagle Scout Project I helped with, to build my wife a drying frame for her knitting the other day as well. But my shop had lots more sawdust than yours. 🤣🤣🤣
😂😂👍
Whats the best place to buy the little plastic sorting boxes? After a quick google I'm getting places popping up who charge around £8 to £10 for just 1 single tiny plastic box, which would get ridiculous if you're filling a load of drawers!😅
Don’t know tbh - mine are all ancient, and I don’t think Festool make the coloured ones any more. I did a quick google and had prices popping on from 50p to a few quid each, so maybe try a few different searches? Or if you want a full set then there’s this type of thing - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264082342291?var=563633124313&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338365712&toolid=20006&customid=EB180574995& 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for taking the time to reply I appreciate it 😁👍
Good Stuff
Thanks!
Hi Peter. Quick question on your compressor. What size do you have, as I am looking to invest in one to change out my 240v nailer for a compressed air one. Thanks for the content you produce, and the clarity on when things are gifted with out obligation, not many youtubers are as transparent as you! Cheers, James.
Ignore the question, Just seen the Vid linked in your description! Cheers!
Hello there,
was that just neat beeswax or some preparation/mix?
I use a liquid beeswax from Liberon - amzn.to/3Om0teV
What do you think of that Festool table saw?
It’s excellent, provided you can live with the capacity. Needs a mains cable though. 🤷♂️👍
Hey Peter, would you ever consider making drawers completely out of MDF? I've tried and failed a couple of times thinking it's just not the right material for that sort of thing but just wanted to check if I'm missing something?
I’ve made a few for myself and honestly they’ve been fine, but for client work I used Birch ply because it was strong and looked nicer, and when UA-cam came along the same reasons applied. 👍
Obviously, you've done a few of these before, but did I see you hand feeding your table saw past the edge of the blade? I thought this was a kickback no no.
I always enjoy watching you work and listening to your descriptions. Thank you.
So kickback happens in one of two ways; when natural tension in a board is released on cutting (usually a rip cut ie with the grain) and this release of tension creates movement in the material that pinches the blade, turning it into a wheel that throws the wood back at you. Or the user skews the workpiece as they push it through the blade, pinching it between the blade and the fence, with the same result. The riving knife is there to prevent the first from happening - it literally stops a workpiece from closing up enough to pinch the blade. And for the second the material has to be thick enough to cause it to be trapped instead of cut, which is what the blade will always want to do. So, riving knife is always fitted on this saw - you will never seem me using a tablesaw without one - and blade guard / crown guard in place wherever possible, so the risk of kickback and injury is already severely reduced. There are two instances where I feed the work through the saw by hand in this video; the first it to strip the tongue off the floorboard, so zero chance of kickback through pinching, possibly through skewing the work, which is why I did this by hand instead of using push sticks. Normally you’d use two, one to push the work forward and hold it down into the table bed, and the other to apply pressure against the fence. But because I’m only ripping the tongue off the board, there’s nothing for the push stick to grab. The other instance was with 6mm ply; again, zero chance of kickback through pinching, and very little through skewing the work as 6mm ply will almost always be cut rather than trap the blade, especially with a newish blade like this one. I also didn’t want to use push sticks with the ply as it was actually quite bowed, so needed pressure applying in different areas.
Sorry, short question but long answer as ‘pushing the wood past the blade causes kickback’ is an oversimplification. Hope that makes sense. P 👍
Im not the only one who makes this subtraction mistake?
This cant be! 🤯
😂
😂🤦♂️🤷♂️👍
Is this the right channel? No tracksaw?
Decided to use everything but! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshopNo you didn't!
Könnte ich sein. 3x abgeschnitten und immer noch zu kurz 😂
😂👍
Oh dear, im first again. Definitely need to get a life offline😂......
However, this time i have flue as an excuse🤧🤒
Get well soon!
Thumbnail looks.... Ouch! 🤕
Not as ‘ouch’ as when it came off… 😬