This was a fantastic video! Very informative and clear! I just ordered the kit from PulsarProFX and laminator. Cannot wait to give it a try! Thank you for taking the time to give such a good tutorial!
Wonderful job!! :] I have a few question to you. Can I use any laser print water slide decal papers? And when I used laminator, the gold foil transfer on the water slide paper. How can I fix? Or how can I succeed? Actually I want to transfer only letter and logo. Please teach me and I am sorry for my english skills.. :(
Toy Life, 1. You can use any Laser Printer - but you CANNOT use any Laser print water-slide paper. 2. The paper I use comes from DecalProFX - it is a DRY Toner Transfer Paper. 3. Your issues are coming because it sounds like you are trying to use a water-slide paper. 4. Go to www.PulsarProFX.com and www.decalprofx.com for supplies and further instructions. (Note: I am not working or sponsored by them - just a very happy customer) 5. As for just wanting to do lettering & Logo - I have been very successful doing lettering & Logos with this system. Wishing you the best. Love & Respect, Peter J Reding
@@PeterReding Thank you for very detailed reply to me!! My Final question. I have incal water-slide decal paper. is it impossible?. I understand what your saying. However, I living in Korea now, so that's why I buy incal decals very easily more than PulsarPro FX decals. And my gold foil transfer everything. that is good issues, but! only letters, and logo. = is it temperature problem? or please tell me the Laminator right temperature. thank you!! I hope your reply.
Never tried a domestic iron - the laminator applies both heat and pressure - so the iron would need to be pretty precise and consistent to replace the laminator - if you get it to work let me know how it came out.
Tom,The short answer is "Yes, I do use Pens Plus over the CA."The long answer and different ways are . . . It is worth the read if you want a superior decal, with a CA finish or a Natural Pens Plus Finish - and achieve a permanent decal application.I have been experimenting and perfecting my pen decal making, applying and finishing now for nearly two years . . . Level One - Decal Application with CA & Keeping Mylar Film on pen:my first decals were applied to a CA finish with a temporary, light rubber spray adhesive - keeping the thin Mylar film on the pen and covering the decal and Mylar film with several layers of CA. This method was OK when I wanted my finished pen to have a CA finish. The problems with this first method were: 1. With close inspection you could see the Mylar film - particularly its edges and 2. when I didn't do enough even layering of CA or as I polished the decal portion of the pen an edge started to reveal itself months later.Level Two- Decal Application with CA over decal only & Keeping Mylar Film:I wanted to have a more natural pen finish and get away from an all CA finish. I too found and have been using Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus friction polish. This is a Walnut oil based and shellac friction polish - very clear and leaves a stunning natural finish. I actually visited Dr Mike in Oregon (inventor of Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus) a year ago - I asked him - "How can I apply a decal to a pen that will be permanent?" While he could not tell me how - he gave me a huge clue . . . "Shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to Shellac!" So, I came back to my shop and tried several approaches - bottom line - same process as above accept only wiped a thin wipe of CA over the decal Mylar - maybe 2 times - did a very light 1200 grit smoothing of the CA and then finished the entire pen with Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus. This created a HUGE improvement but I was still dealing with the problems created by leaving the Mylar on.Level Three - Decal Application with CA over decal only & Removing the Mylar Film: OK long story here but stay with me - it's worth it . . . Now, 1. I dip the decal (while still on the Mylar film) into a 2# Shellac.2. I put a quick wipe of 2# Shellac on the pen where I am going to place the decal.3. Place the decal - while still 'wet' - brush it down flat with all air out from under decal.4. Leave it dry for 12 to 24 hours.5. IMPORTANT - prior to removing the Mylar - use 1200 and then 2000 grit to smooth out the Shellac over and around the Mylar.6. Remove the Mylar film - leaving the decal 100% intact on the pen!! YIPPY - Time to celebrate . . . before the next critical steps.7. Wipe two thin and quick layers of 2# Shellac over the entire surface of the 'raw decal' - let it dry for 30-60 minutes8. VERY - VERY light sanding - 1200 or 2000 grit to smooth out the Shellac (do not go thru the Shellac layer)9. Wipe two thin and quick layers of CA over the entire surface of the 'protected decal' - let it dry for 3-6 minutes (without accelerator).10. VERY - VERY light sanding - 1200 or 2000 grit to smooth out the CA (do not go thru the CA layer)11. Now use your Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus x 3 for a stunning natural glossy finish.Video to demo all of this hopefully coming soon.Results: A permanent decal; professional customization; decals can be in gold, silver, black or other vibrant colors; you can achieve either a CA pen finish or a Natural Pens Plus (Walnut Oil Shellac) finish.
I started with the temporary rubber spray adhesive that came with the Pulsar Pro FX Decal System. Over the past year and a half I have switched to using a 2# Zinzer Clear Shellac as a natural adhesive. Once I apply the decal - I let it dry 24-48 hours before I remove the Mylar film from the decal. See comment above for the videos I have posted showing exactly how I do this.
I have been looking for something exactly like this! Would you take orders for this because I don't have any of this machinery? Do you know of a place that does this other than yourself? Wow I'm full of questions only because I need this in my hybrid jewelry collection! Many blessings to you!
I do take orders but only for Custom Exotic Hardwood Pens - see www.SignatureSeriesPens.com - Any other questions you can email me at Peter@SignatureSeriesPens.com - I love to support other Craftsmen with how they can leave their MARK on their hand-crafted works. All the best to you!
The decal system I use is DecalProFX - it is not a water-slide decal. it is a Dry-decal that has a very thin, clear Mylar that is removed when the decal is affixed to my pen barrel with a 2# clear Zinzer Shellac. See videos 12 of 19 thru 16 of 19 in my "62 Steps" video series where I demonstrate exactly what and how I do this. All the very best to you.
I have posted 5 videos on how to create and apply a decal to an exotic hardwood pen. The Full version of the 62 Step Pen Video Series has 19 videos - check out these 5 videos: 12 of 19 to 16 of 19. These "How-to" details to create, apply and protect the pen's decal are described and demonstrated in these videos. Go to SignatureSeriesPens.com or directly to UA-cam and look up Signature Series Pens. I hope this helps to inspire every pen turner to create their own unique Craftsman Mark and place it on every pen they have hand crafted. - Peter J Reding, Master Pen Turner
The monitor arm he is using no longer has the detachable feature for the hood. It is now a permanent attachment. The video of the product on Amazon clearly shows that it exists but don't believe it.
This was a fantastic video! Very informative and clear! I just ordered the kit from PulsarProFX and laminator. Cannot wait to give it a try! Thank you for taking the time to give such a good tutorial!
Wonderful. How do you cut out and adhere the decal to the pen? The CA doesn’t make the print run?
Wonderful job!! :] I have a few question to you. Can I use any laser print water slide decal papers? And when I used laminator, the gold foil transfer on the water slide paper. How can I fix? Or how can I succeed? Actually I want to transfer only letter and logo. Please teach me and I am sorry for my english skills.. :(
Toy Life, 1. You can use any Laser Printer - but you CANNOT use any Laser print water-slide paper. 2. The paper I use comes from DecalProFX - it is a DRY Toner Transfer Paper. 3. Your issues are coming because it sounds like you are trying to use a water-slide paper. 4. Go to www.PulsarProFX.com and www.decalprofx.com for supplies and further instructions. (Note: I am not working or sponsored by them - just a very happy customer) 5. As for just wanting to do lettering & Logo - I have been very successful doing lettering & Logos with this system. Wishing you the best. Love & Respect, Peter J Reding
@@PeterReding Thank you for very detailed reply to me!! My Final question. I have incal water-slide decal paper. is it impossible?. I understand what your saying. However, I living in Korea now, so that's why I buy incal decals very easily more than PulsarPro FX decals.
And my gold foil transfer everything. that is good issues, but! only letters, and logo. = is it temperature problem? or please tell me the Laminator right temperature.
thank you!! I hope your reply.
Great video but can you try a domestic iron to see if that works please ?
Never tried a domestic iron - the laminator applies both heat and pressure - so the iron would need to be pretty precise and consistent to replace the laminator - if you get it to work let me know how it came out.
I dont remember if you mentioned there was any laser printer that would "not" work for this application.
wow!!!
Hi Peter, I make wood pens for my fellow Military members using primarily pens plus finish. Do u use CA overPP finish over your decals?
Tom,The short answer is "Yes, I do use Pens Plus over the CA."The long answer and different ways are . . . It is worth the read if you want a superior decal, with a CA finish or a Natural Pens Plus Finish - and achieve a permanent decal application.I have been experimenting and perfecting my pen decal making, applying and finishing now for nearly two years . . . Level One - Decal Application with CA & Keeping Mylar Film on pen:my first decals were applied to a CA finish with a temporary, light rubber spray adhesive - keeping the thin Mylar film on the pen and covering the decal and Mylar film with several layers of CA. This method was OK when I wanted my finished pen to have a CA finish. The problems with this first method were: 1. With close inspection you could see the Mylar film - particularly its edges and 2. when I didn't do enough even layering of CA or as I polished the decal portion of the pen an edge started to reveal itself months later.Level Two- Decal Application with CA over decal only & Keeping Mylar Film:I wanted to have a more natural pen finish and get away from an all CA finish. I too found and have been using Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus friction polish. This is a Walnut oil based and shellac friction polish - very clear and leaves a stunning natural finish. I actually visited Dr Mike in Oregon (inventor of Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus) a year ago - I asked him - "How can I apply a decal to a pen that will be permanent?" While he could not tell me how - he gave me a huge clue . . . "Shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to Shellac!" So, I came back to my shop and tried several approaches - bottom line - same process as above accept only wiped a thin wipe of CA over the decal Mylar - maybe 2 times - did a very light 1200 grit smoothing of the CA and then finished the entire pen with Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus. This created a HUGE improvement but I was still dealing with the problems created by leaving the Mylar on.Level Three - Decal Application with CA over decal only & Removing the Mylar Film: OK long story here but stay with me - it's worth it . . . Now, 1. I dip the decal (while still on the Mylar film) into a 2# Shellac.2. I put a quick wipe of 2# Shellac on the pen where I am going to place the decal.3. Place the decal - while still 'wet' - brush it down flat with all air out from under decal.4. Leave it dry for 12 to 24 hours.5. IMPORTANT - prior to removing the Mylar - use 1200 and then 2000 grit to smooth out the Shellac over and around the Mylar.6. Remove the Mylar film - leaving the decal 100% intact on the pen!! YIPPY - Time to celebrate . . . before the next critical steps.7. Wipe two thin and quick layers of 2# Shellac over the entire surface of the 'raw decal' - let it dry for 30-60 minutes8. VERY - VERY light sanding - 1200 or 2000 grit to smooth out the Shellac (do not go thru the Shellac layer)9. Wipe two thin and quick layers of CA over the entire surface of the 'protected decal' - let it dry for 3-6 minutes (without accelerator).10. VERY - VERY light sanding - 1200 or 2000 grit to smooth out the CA (do not go thru the CA layer)11. Now use your Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus x 3 for a stunning natural glossy finish.Video to demo all of this hopefully coming soon.Results: A permanent decal; professional customization; decals can be in gold, silver, black or other vibrant colors; you can achieve either a CA pen finish or a Natural Pens Plus (Walnut Oil Shellac) finish.
Is the Mylar sheet sticky?
No
Very informative TFS "thanks for sharing" G :)
Peter do you use the K2000 Spray adhesive at all?
I started with the temporary rubber spray adhesive that came with the Pulsar Pro FX Decal System. Over the past year and a half I have switched to using a 2# Zinzer Clear Shellac as a natural adhesive. Once I apply the decal - I let it dry 24-48 hours before I remove the Mylar film from the decal. See comment above for the videos I have posted showing exactly how I do this.
I have been looking for something exactly like this! Would you take orders for this because I don't have any of this machinery? Do you know of a place that does this other than yourself? Wow I'm full of questions only because I need this in my hybrid jewelry collection! Many blessings to you!
I do take orders but only for Custom Exotic Hardwood Pens - see www.SignatureSeriesPens.com - Any other questions you can email me at Peter@SignatureSeriesPens.com - I love to support other Craftsmen with how they can leave their MARK on their hand-crafted works. All the best to you!
Please advise what toner paper you use?
The Toner Paper comes from Pulsar Pro FX Decals.
How do you apply the decal? Do you apply it like a water slide?
The decal system I use is DecalProFX - it is not a water-slide decal. it is a Dry-decal that has a very thin, clear Mylar that is removed when the decal is affixed to my pen barrel with a 2# clear Zinzer Shellac. See videos 12 of 19 thru 16 of 19 in my "62 Steps" video series where I demonstrate exactly what and how I do this. All the very best to you.
I have posted 5 videos on how to create and apply a decal to an exotic hardwood pen. The Full version of the 62 Step Pen Video Series has 19 videos - check out these 5 videos: 12 of 19 to 16 of 19. These "How-to" details to create, apply and protect the pen's decal are described and demonstrated in these videos. Go to SignatureSeriesPens.com or directly to UA-cam and look up Signature Series Pens. I hope this helps to inspire every pen turner to create their own unique Craftsman Mark and place it on every pen they have hand crafted. - Peter J Reding, Master Pen Turner
The monitor arm he is using no longer has the detachable feature for the hood. It is now a permanent attachment.
The video of the product on Amazon clearly shows that it exists but don't believe it.
I'll just stick with a thin vinyl lol. So much easier
Link on How to Apply this decal: ua-cam.com/video/z-faYenXOeU/v-deo.html
Did anyone ever tell you that you sound exactly like Dax Shepard?
Ummmm - Thank You!?
But like an exaggerated version.
Ummmmm Cool video but,,,, am I the only one who missed how to put it on the pen????
How to apply is in another video
Link on How to Apply this decal: ua-cam.com/video/z-faYenXOeU/v-deo.html