Lynn, you are a genius. You come up with an idea as a source of revenue, and then you teach everybody how to do it. A real genius. Thank you for sharing! Such a great idea.
Lynn, thank you for this tip. I am new to turning and love this idea. Your videos came upon my search and have been a great help. Now I just have to learn how to reduce the image size on my computer. Hmmm...lol Thanks again
Good video. I'm 68 and used the decals on models as a kid. Remember as they say in the water they would curl up and you knew they were ready when they uncurled? Good video and this weekend I'm going to try and find some decal paper.
Greetings from South Africa, good to see you again Lynn, so glad you managed to sort those pens out. Yep we had an epic storm here today too, stay safe my friend
I have used rustoleum clear enamel and the clear satin as a sealant. I put 2 coats on it. Not sure if I missed it in your video, but I let my decal, once on the blank, dry for a few hours because the water under the decal reacts when I apply my coats of CA over the decal. I usually end up putting 8 or so coats over the decal then micro mesh or buffing wheel to a high shine.
Thank you so much for this! I need to make some custom pens and I only saw options for heat press machines. I’m so glad I found this video because this looks more economical.
The cool thing about using decals is that your imagination (and size, of course) is your only limitation. Thanks for sharing, Lynn, and good to see you back at it. I know how the delay of getting a new shop has effected me, so I feel your... pain? frustration? Whatever, you know what I mean. BTW, I was hoping to see you at SWAT. If you haven't been, you need to try to make it next year. Always worth while. Billy
Thank you for posting. After watching you I used laser printer water slide film. It may seem obvious, but I found that the finger used to anchor the film should be damp to avoid wrinkling the film.
This is very timely, Lynn, I was looking at the Testor decal sheets this past week and was wondering if it would work for my pens. I guess I'll go back and get a pack. Thanks for the information, you have a good day.
is the rustoleum in place of the activator or seal spray you did on the paper, or after you put on the pen?. also wouldnt it be fuzzy with a satin finish?
I have made a number of fecal lens and always used spray lacquer to deal the decal. You maybe right that there is a reaction between the CA and the Testers binder.
To set the decals, you can also use a finish like Helmsman Spar urethane from Minwax. This has the added benefit of UV protection, if the stuff you use doesn't. The Minwax stuff also doesn't take that long to cure. You also know that wetting your blank didn't do anything, right? Just beaded and then dried. No harm in doing it, but it's a step that seems unnecessary given the CA finish.
Fpr what is worth - I live in Michigan, and during the winter in my heated basement, the humidity drops to 35-40%. I made several walnut pens several winters ago, and finished with medium CA and sprayed accelerant between coats (about 10). After two months, the pens developed a cloudy bloom. I switched to super thin CA (Starbond EM 02, thin like water), which set up in 30 seconds or so....and skipped the accelerant. I have never had a cloudy bloom since. PS, when applying decals, I use a color ink jet and a white lacquer background...and always wait overnight before applying a CA finish.
Big difference in conditions there and here. I usually don’t have a problem but it has been 100% humidity. Good idea on the this with no accelerant, I don’t use it if I don’t have to. Thanks for watching
Hi Lynn, really cool process using the water slide decals. Is the purpose of the top coat to seal the ink do it wont run? I have used clear peel and stick clear waterproof print labels and while the end result can also be good you only get one chance to position the decal on the pen and I have messed up many a pen blank. It seems using the water slide method you can slide the decal into position as needed and if you don't get it just right you have a few seconds to get it positioned just right? I really want to give this a try now. Thanks a bunch for showing the process and dig your new shop.
Here's a thought I was having. I don't use any CA on my wood pens for a finish, usually it's boiled linseed oil, then I started using clear polyurethane. What if I used that on top of the decal, maybe 2 coats, would that seal it in there?
It does, but it will look kind of funny if you use a glossy decal paper and the metal pen isn’t shinny, also if you can put a layer of CA on top of the decal it will keep it from being damaged or getting scratched
Jenifer's Faith CA is the glossy glue that is used to give pens the shiny finish, I’ve personally never put CA glue on a metal pen, but it should be fine, it’s just glue, if you are thinking of doing a CA glue finish on a metal pen with a decal do it as it is on the video, do one coat of thin CA glue, add your decal, then add some CA to seal it off, also think about sanding it down with sand paper pads, it’s sand paper that goes in water and works best for finishing the CA glue finish
Lynn, you are a genius. You come up with an idea as a source of revenue, and then you teach everybody how to do it. A real genius. Thank you for sharing! Such a great idea.
Thanks Eddie I appreciate your support
Lynn, thank you for this tip. I am new to turning and love this idea. Your videos came upon my search and have been a great help. Now I just have to learn how to reduce the image size on my computer. Hmmm...lol Thanks again
I use to do model cars back in the early 60’s AMT model cars were my favorite their decals were incredible
Thanks Lynn
Me to Jerry and your welcome
Good video. I'm 68 and used the decals on models as a kid. Remember as they say in the water they would curl up and you knew they were ready when they uncurled? Good video and this weekend I'm going to try and find some decal paper.
Thanks Larry and good luck
Have made a number of pens for friends using this method. I also use a clear spray lacquer and have had very good results.
Great I think I will go that way from this point on. Thanks
Greetings from South Africa, good to see you again Lynn, so glad you managed to sort those pens out. Yep we had an epic storm here today too, stay safe my friend
Thanks Val it has rained most of the week here. Stay safe.
I have used rustoleum clear enamel and the clear satin as a sealant. I put 2 coats on it. Not sure if I missed it in your video, but I let my decal, once on the blank, dry for a few hours because the water under the decal reacts when I apply my coats of CA over the decal. I usually end up putting 8 or so coats over the decal then micro mesh or buffing wheel to a high shine.
Sound like our process is very similar. Yes I wait a few hours after applying the decal. Thanks for watching
Thank you so much for this! I need to make some custom pens and I only saw options for heat press machines. I’m so glad I found this video because this looks more economical.
Have you tried using Avery clear labels? Seems like it would work. Peel, apply, then seal everything with CA glue.
The cool thing about using decals is that your imagination (and size, of course) is your only limitation. Thanks for sharing, Lynn, and good to see you back at it. I know how the delay of getting a new shop has effected me, so I feel your... pain? frustration? Whatever, you know what I mean.
BTW, I was hoping to see you at SWAT. If you haven't been, you need to try to make it next year. Always worth while.
Billy
Thanks Billy - I couldn't make SWAT this year - hopefully next year. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for posting. After watching you I used laser printer water slide film. It may seem obvious, but I found that the finger used to anchor the film should be damp to avoid wrinkling the film.
Hey thanks for watching and I have found the same about the wet finger. Best Regards
Thanks good thought
This is very timely, Lynn, I was looking at the Testor decal sheets this past week and was wondering if it would work for my pens. I guess I'll go back and get a pack. Thanks for the information, you have a good day.
You are welcome and good luck
Great video! Thanks for sharing the your experiment results. I will have to try this sometime.
Thanks for the info Llyn,have to see if i can find something similar in the U.K. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
is the rustoleum in place of the activator or seal spray you did on the paper, or after you put on the pen?. also wouldnt it be fuzzy with a satin finish?
I have made a number of fecal lens and always used spray lacquer to deal the decal. You maybe right that there is a reaction between the CA and the Testers binder.
Yea there is something going on there not sure exactly what. Thanks for watching
To set the decals, you can also use a finish like Helmsman Spar urethane from Minwax. This has the added benefit of UV protection, if the stuff you use doesn't. The Minwax stuff also doesn't take that long to cure.
You also know that wetting your blank didn't do anything, right? Just beaded and then dried. No harm in doing it, but it's a step that seems unnecessary given the CA finish.
That's a good idea, I'm going to have to try it, thanks for sharing
Good luck and I appreciate you watching
I always leave my pen on the mandrel so it is stable while I put my decals on.
Fpr what is worth - I live in Michigan, and during the winter in my heated basement, the humidity drops to 35-40%. I made several walnut pens several winters ago, and finished with medium CA and sprayed accelerant between coats (about 10). After two months, the pens developed a cloudy bloom. I switched to super thin CA (Starbond EM 02, thin like water), which set up in 30 seconds or so....and skipped the accelerant. I have never had a cloudy bloom since. PS, when applying decals, I use a color ink jet and a white lacquer background...and always wait overnight before applying a CA finish.
Big difference in conditions there and here. I usually don’t have a problem but it has been 100% humidity. Good idea on the this with no accelerant, I don’t use it if I don’t have to. Thanks for watching
Curious about the finishing process after you apply the decal. CA finish directly over it?
Nice work Lynn! Thanks for sharing the video.👍😎JP
Thank you sir
You're very welcome Lynn! 😎
I use fast drying clear nail polish.
Very nice. Thanks. I had hoped there was a way to do this.
Thanks I hope you have good luck with it
Do you have vid for next step ??
Hi there! Can I use this technique on a Metallic pen blank?
Hey Kendra you should be able to I’ve used it on aluminum pens
Hi Lynn, really cool process using the water slide decals. Is the purpose of the top coat to seal the ink do it wont run? I have used clear peel and stick clear waterproof print labels and while the end result can also be good you only get one chance to position the decal on the pen and I have messed up many a pen blank. It seems using the water slide method you can slide the decal into position as needed and if you don't get it just right you have a few seconds to get it positioned just right? I really want to give this a try now. Thanks a bunch for showing the process and dig your new shop.
You are welcome and yes it’s a little forgiving,thanks for watching
Here's a thought I was having. I don't use any CA on my wood pens for a finish, usually it's boiled linseed oil, then I started using clear polyurethane. What if I used that on top of the decal, maybe 2 coats, would that seal it in there?
Good though but I’ve never used boiled linseed oil. I have used poly but never over decals, but don’t see why it wouldn’t seal it
Thanks for the tips. Can you tell me the name of pen kit you used for this video?
Hey Tony - Those were made with the Gatsby pen kit. Thanks for watching
Did I understand you to say that you put another coat of CA glue on there AFTER you put on the decal and it dries?
Yes sir, I put my normal regime of CA finish on it
I have made many decal pens, football badges, names and cartoon characters etc. But I use a laser printer where there is no need to seal with bonder.
Probably better but I don’t have a laser printer, need to put it on my Xmas list huh. Thanks for the comment
Would this method work for metal pens?
It does, but it will look kind of funny if you use a glossy decal paper and the metal pen isn’t shinny, also if you can put a layer of CA on top of the decal it will keep it from being damaged or getting scratched
@@ac482190 what is CA and would it mattify it to blend better?
Jenifer's Faith CA is the glossy glue that is used to give pens the shiny finish, I’ve personally never put CA glue on a metal pen, but it should be fine, it’s just glue, if you are thinking of doing a CA glue finish on a metal pen with a decal do it as it is on the video, do one coat of thin CA glue, add your decal, then add some CA to seal it off, also think about sanding it down with sand paper pads, it’s sand paper that goes in water and works best for finishing the CA glue finish
@@ac482190 thanks for your help. I will give it a try