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Toy Life, 1. You can use any Laser Printer - but you CANNOT use any Laser print water-slide paper. 2. The paper I use comes from DecalProFX - it is a DRY Toner Transfer Paper. 3. Your issues are coming because it sounds like you are trying to use a water-slide paper. 4. Go to www.PulsarProFX.com and www.decalprofx.com for supplies and further instructions. (Note: I am not working or sponsored by them - just a very happy customer) 5. As for just wanting to do lettering & Logo - I have been very successful doing lettering & Logos with this system. Wishing you the best. Love & Respect, Peter J Reding

@@PeterReding Thank you for very detailed reply to me!! My Final question. I have incal water-slide decal paper. is it impossible?. I understand what your saying. However, I living in Korea now, so that's why I buy incal decals very easily more than PulsarPro FX decals. And my gold foil transfer everything. that is good issues, but! only letters, and logo. = is it temperature problem? or please tell me the Laminator right temperature. thank you!! I hope your reply.

The 2" Tube saw I use in this video was sourced from www.PennStateInd.com - the largest pen turning supply store in the US. Harbor Freight has either the exact saw or very similar saw . . . however PennstateInd saw comes with 4 "holding jigs" for 7mm, 8mm, 10mm and 3/8". Very, very handy. I suppose you could make the "holding jigs" yourself, but when I bought mine - it was easier/faster to have them supplied with my saw. I have had this now for over 4 years - still using the original 2" saw blade. I also get my 10" tubes from www.PennStateInd.com.

This is not a "waterslide" decal. I haven't tried to apply to a metal pen. You could probably use the shellac to apply and protect the raw decal with shellac as I show in this video - but metal pens typically do not have a CA or friction-polish finish so the decal may not show up as seemlessly as you might desire.

Never tried a domestic iron - the laminator applies both heat and pressure - so the iron would need to be pretty precise and consistent to replace the laminator - if you get it to work let me know how it came out.

No

How to apply is in another video

www.pennstateind.com/store/TUBESAW.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw45_bBRD_ARIsAJ6wUXQ9XJjp4B1rarzRjSLTpXe3AeCjViB0JeUUJaM-wkQ4u226NQOgGQQaAiI3EALw_wcB

I do take orders but only for Custom Exotic Hardwood Pens - see www.SignatureSeriesPens.com - Any other questions you can email me at Peter@SignatureSeriesPens.com - I love to support other Craftsmen with how they can leave their MARK on their hand-crafted works. All the best to you!

The decal system I use is DecalProFX - it is not a water-slide decal. it is a Dry-decal that has a very thin, clear Mylar that is removed when the decal is affixed to my pen barrel with a 2# clear Zinzer Shellac. See videos 12 of 19 thru 16 of 19 in my "62 Steps" video series where I demonstrate exactly what and how I do this. All the very best to you.

Ummmm - Thank You!?

But like an exaggerated version.

All 19 videos are posted - they may not be in perfect sequential order - so to bottom of list - they are all here!! Thanks for watching! and Commenting!

The Toner Paper comes from Pulsar Pro FX Decals.

I started with the temporary rubber spray adhesive that came with the Pulsar Pro FX Decal System. Over the past year and a half I have switched to using a 2# Zinzer Clear Shellac as a natural adhesive. Once I apply the decal - I let it dry 24-48 hours before I remove the Mylar film from the decal. See comment above for the videos I have posted showing exactly how I do this.

Thanks for the heads up - we are up and running now!! Enjoy!

Tom,The short answer is "Yes, I do use Pens Plus over the CA."The long answer and different ways are . . . It is worth the read if you want a superior decal, with a CA finish or a Natural Pens Plus Finish - and achieve a permanent decal application.I have been experimenting and perfecting my pen decal making, applying and finishing now for nearly two years . . . Level One - Decal Application with CA & Keeping Mylar Film on pen:my first decals were applied to a CA finish with a temporary, light rubber spray adhesive - keeping the thin Mylar film on the pen and covering the decal and Mylar film with several layers of CA. This method was OK when I wanted my finished pen to have a CA finish. The problems with this first method were: 1. With close inspection you could see the Mylar film - particularly its edges and 2. when I didn't do enough even layering of CA or as I polished the decal portion of the pen an edge started to reveal itself months later.Level Two- Decal Application with CA over decal only & Keeping Mylar Film:I wanted to have a more natural pen finish and get away from an all CA finish. I too found and have been using Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus friction polish. This is a Walnut oil based and shellac friction polish - very clear and leaves a stunning natural finish. I actually visited Dr Mike in Oregon (inventor of Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus) a year ago - I asked him - "How can I apply a decal to a pen that will be permanent?" While he could not tell me how - he gave me a huge clue . . . "Shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to Shellac!" So, I came back to my shop and tried several approaches - bottom line - same process as above accept only wiped a thin wipe of CA over the decal Mylar - maybe 2 times - did a very light 1200 grit smoothing of the CA and then finished the entire pen with Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus. This created a HUGE improvement but I was still dealing with the problems created by leaving the Mylar on.Level Three - Decal Application with CA over decal only & Removing the Mylar Film: OK long story here but stay with me - it's worth it . . . Now, 1. I dip the decal (while still on the Mylar film) into a 2# Shellac.2. I put a quick wipe of 2# Shellac on the pen where I am going to place the decal.3. Place the decal - while still 'wet' - brush it down flat with all air out from under decal.4. Leave it dry for 12 to 24 hours.5. IMPORTANT - prior to removing the Mylar - use 1200 and then 2000 grit to smooth out the Shellac over and around the Mylar.6. Remove the Mylar film - leaving the decal 100% intact on the pen!! YIPPY - Time to celebrate . . . before the next critical steps.7. Wipe two thin and quick layers of 2# Shellac over the entire surface of the 'raw decal' - let it dry for 30-60 minutes8. VERY - VERY light sanding - 1200 or 2000 grit to smooth out the Shellac (do not go thru the Shellac layer)9. Wipe two thin and quick layers of CA over the entire surface of the 'protected decal' - let it dry for 3-6 minutes (without accelerator).10. VERY - VERY light sanding - 1200 or 2000 grit to smooth out the CA (do not go thru the CA layer)11. Now use your Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus x 3 for a stunning natural glossy finish.Video to demo all of this hopefully coming soon.Results: A permanent decal; professional customization; decals can be in gold, silver, black or other vibrant colors; you can achieve either a CA pen finish or a Natural Pens Plus (Walnut Oil Shellac) finish.