I lost a dear friend many years ago. He was a master gunsmith and fabricated many things right there in the shop. He was always eager to teach me. You remind me much of him. Wish you were my neighbor! Thank you very much for the excellent content. Wishing the best for you and yours this holiday season.
Doesn't really matter who produced and/or marketed the product, EVERYONE will have failures. Good, reputable companies just reduce the failure numbers significantly with QC. But they will still have failures.
Yes nothing is perfect, but I rather know WHO’S parts are failing just during install to avoid it possibly happening when the firearm is needed to perform God forbid.
Granted, it's disappointing when we see a failure like this, but if a company is going to be slack in QC in any part on the rifle, the castle nut is a good candidate. It's there to lock the receiver extension in place, and prevent it backing out, but where the receiver extension threads into the lower is what takes the stress from firing. The most stress that castle nut ever experiences is probably when you're torquing it down; after that, it pretty much just sits there, so it's not the kind of part that's likely to fail 2000 rds later. Technically you could fire the rifle with the castle nut completely missing-it would just be a pain to keep holding onto the receiver extension to prevent it spinning out.
BCM is great stuff ....BCM lifesaving tools serve US Military Special Operations Units, Department of Homeland Security, responsible American citizens and other government agencies at home and around the world.
You look long enough, BCM has had issues with other parts. I own both BCM & Aero Precision, & have shot weekly matches for years with no hiccups from either of these companies guns/parts. If it's an Aero Precision castle nut, they'll correct the issue.
Probably an inclusion in the steel, brittle fracture right at the stress riser caused by the sharp corners at the bottom of the notches. A U-shaped bottom to the castle nut slots would almost certainly eliminate this failure mode.
Honestly, that's a freak event. There's probably a lot fewer suppliers of these nuts than most people know. Even most large manufacturers probably source them from elsewhere. Look at Colt; they sourced their ambi safeties from Arms Unlimited.
Some types of coatings can cause hydrogen embrittlement, phosphate is one of them. The heat treatment after can be the difference between failure and no failure.
The cracked surfaces are dark in color that would mean that the cracks were there before or during phosphate. It could also be Stress Corrosion Cracking(SCC) or the rough stock was cracked during extrusion.
Something definitely went amiss during the tempering. That is a very obvious conchoidal fracture. No stress fracturing that i could see. Shit was brittle as fuck, my friend. Your exiled pal, Da’ath
Wow, thanks for sharing! That's definitely a first time seeing a failure like that. Just a thought, but my guess is a lot of QC will start to diminish with the uptick in manufacturing to try and meet the current demand.
@@tomliemohn624 Wouldn't be surprised, considering how much catch-up AR parts manufacturers have been doing because of panic buying. The question now is whether or not these material quality issues will start popping up in other parts of their product line.
That castle nut looks like it was made via hot isostatic pressing, or metal injection molding, instead of being milled from a solid piece of aluminum or steel which would explain why it broke like glass and why the grain is so visible, my guess cheap Chinesium junk.
This is one of those parts you would think should never fail. It has one job to do and it’s not like it’s a wear part or anything. Makes me want to get spare parts for an entire lower just in case. Wonder what would be a good parts list to have on hand for common failures.
I love your channel and I've been binge watching all your videos after finding you. I would love to see a video about forge markings on AR uppers in the future, there's not many videos that go into detail about it.
wouldn't a bad heat treat result in the nut breaking, but also deforming. This looks like a "clean" break to me at both ends so probly not an issue with the heat treatment, but rather the forging itself.I wonder how castle nuts are made now...I assume they are forged first and simply milled, threaded and cut to their final shapes.
@@Atom_Alchemist Poor heat-treating results in a metal piece that's "glass" hard. They become not only rigid and resistant to any deformation, but extremely brittle. This castle nut is a perfect example of what happens with brittle steel.
@@Atom_Alchemist correct, that is one type of bad heat treating. That would generally be "under-doing" it or simply not doing it at all. This is "over-doing" it making it so hard it's brittle. I only know a little of the process, but good explanations and other examples are on 'Forged in Fire'
@@Atom_Alchemist What you try to achieve while heat treating is a hard surface and overall better material properties. That castle nut looks like it is hardened all the way through what you don't want for a castle nut. Something hardened that way breaks like glass when enough force is applied. In engineering, we use sometimes pins that are hardened all the way through to create predetermined breaking points (of course you can calculate how much force can be applied).
Just happened to me today. Had it at 30, was going to 40 and it snapped. I don't remember where I bought it but this is the second time this has happened to me in 5 years of building.
Had a similar problem with one of mine, but thankfully the LGS had plenty of spare parts... definitely split like it was cast vs milled. The replacement was only a couple $, and definitely milled. But yeah, things break, even if you follow the specs.
Could you do a video on how far to screw in the buffer tube? Recently had a tolerance stacking issue where I screwed in the buffer tube over the buffer retainer and it was so barely held on there that the chamfered edge of the buffer retainer ended up chewing into the buffer tube lip as it was getting ready to jump out of the lower. And one more turn of the buffer tube was doing a much better job, but the buffer retainer was still chewing into the buffer tube because the nipple was rubbing against the lip.
When I encounter this I just sand down the end of the tube a tiny bit and/or use a tiny file to just barely notch out some space for the nipple to go through.
The only thing someone can see is broken "grains". Should never use the broken cross section for scientific observation. Doesn't tell almost anything. Most of the time will make people mislead.
Jus had this happen to a geissele castle nut. Probably around the same torque number. Scared me for a second. I thought I broke the reciever but no damage other the the castle nut. I like the setup you do with reaction block and the pivot lock
Threads are miscut or misrolled, depth and height all over the place. Look at the profile of the threads on the part facing the camera at 0:59 .... standard torque basically ripped it apart at the first convenient stress riser. Probably some worn out tooling wherever this was made...
My thoughts exactly. Look at the sections where it's broken off: very coarse grain structure. Granted, I've never cracked open a good castle nut to see what the grain structure is supposed to look like, but typically when steel is that coarse, it's not a sign of a proper heat treat for a high tensile strength part.
@@doktorfaustus You should never use broken cross sections of steel to gather information from. Or at least i feel like i should tell you that it's not recommended. It's all broken, sorry i have to use the word ''grains''. You're only going to get mislead by judging steel by the colloqually named ''grains''. It's all broken. If you're looking for austenite, retained austenite, etc. You're gonna need to cut, mirror polish, etch, and get a powerful microscope out and then spend a few hours looking for key things that indicated this or that... Takeda's Super Aogami kitchen knives, with this mentality of using a broken knife to gather information from, have ''the worst grains ever''. But it's not true, some carbides are simply larger than other carbides, and different alloy steels, heats and heat exposure allows for different elements to behave differently during the heat treating processes. The alloying elements combined with heat exposure of whatever alloy that caslte nut is has a bigger impact on the ''grain structure'' than whether it's been heat treated badly or not. Now yes of course you can see differences in the cross section depending on your heat treats etc. But they're generally not a good indication that you're doing something right or wrong. That's the main point to take.
Interesting, on my first assembly I didn't have a spanner wrench so used a dead blow hammer and a punch, I guess PSA turns out quality parts because I know I surpassed spec by a few pounds and that didn't happen. Glad I didn't overpay for sub quality "Name" brand parts. Good Info.
An unrelated question to the video at hand but I've heard a fair amount of comments about the head of the cam pin causing damage to the upper receiver for various reasons which raises the question, why does the pin have a head, or such a large head, in the first place? I believe I have a decent understanding of how the system works but I feel I must be missing something with this as it does not seem necessary.
This is my best understanding. The cam pin head helps orient itself for the insertion of the firing pin. The cam pin's head shape is to keep it aligned in the upper receiver's channel, as the bolt carrier group (BCG) reciprocates during the firing action, so as to avoid undo stress on the firing pin, which rides safely inside the pin's hole. When the BCG goes forward, the cam pin cants to the left, locking in the bolt for the firing sequence. The mass of the head is to withstand the force of the canting of the bolt back to the right, as the gas violently forces the BCG rearward after the ignition phase. If you look in the channel of the upper receiver, you will see a semi-circle notch; this is where the cam pin head cants first to the left to lock in the bolt and then to the rights itself, during the rearward action.
I have a bear creek arsenal castle nut that isn't staked and it's loose. It didn't come staked either. Do you recommend I take it to a gunsmith to have them fix it before I fire it?
I know this is about castle nuts, but I just finished a build and I had a question about installing the barrel nut. We used white lithium grease for the threads on the barrel nut and receiver. Is that a good choice or should I be concerned and take my upper apart to use proper aeroshell? We couldn’t find it anywhere so we thought white lithium grease would do the trick.
I know it's not the SOTAR way, but I typically tighten mine with soft jaw pliers (with aeroshell on the threads), then tighten it up with a hammer and punch, check alignment of the buffer tube, then stake it.
I just installed a palmetto LPK. The mag release snapped where the threaded post meets the actual mag tab. This is right after the gas tube pulled out of the gasblock cause they forgot to pin it. Garbage if you ask me
What do you think of the choices of components in the WWSD2020 project? Also what do you think about some upgrades that POF does to rifles such as cam roller pin E2 extraction and cooling fins on barrel nut?
I'm really digging this chanel. Hiw are you and your wife feeling? Any other techniques for aligning receiver extensions ,for those of us with out that nice tool you have?
Im sure chad knows better methods but what i do since i dont have the proper tools is turn the lower upside down and sit it on a flat level surface so that the receiver extension is hanging off (cant have the hammer installed for this) and put a small torpedo level on the flat side of the buffer tube and then adjust until its level. I have tons of woodworking tools so this was the first thing i went to trying to align mine.
I just inherited a Rock River Arms elite operator 2. I believe it has a commercial buffer tube. Would you recommend changing it out? The castle nut isn't staked, that's why I thought of this question.
Do you plan on changing the stock? Or want the ability to change out stock? ..... if no, and there are no issues with the tube, stock etc then i would say just stake the castle nut and drive on....if you want a new stock or the ability to change them out then go ahed and change it out.
Staking is not permanent, it can be undone (see Chad's video on it). The reason for staking is the prevent rotation of the castle nut from continued operation of the firearm. I use Vibratite VC3 and I also stake in two places. When I go to undo it, I use a torch to weaken the adhesive and then an armorer's wrench and hammer to force the castle nut loose. You can always use a thin screw driver to force the staked material back out of the castle nut notch to make it easier.
Thats a first. Never seen or heard of this happening. One question, was the torque wrench being used a click wrench or a scale & pointer? I only ask as is it possible that the torque wrench being used had a bad moment?
@@vmtcmt those beams really can't have bad monents unless the pointer is bent and hanging. They really can take abuse and keep going and read dead nuts on. Thankyou for the reply.
Thanks for reminding us that things man made do fail and to be alert. I was wondering if you could recommend a good quality internal bore scope that I could get that wont break the bank yet worth investing my money in, Thanks
Your gun might be under gassed. If you have low profile gas block start there. Make sure the bolt carrier is not binding on anything. Does bolt carrier go into battery easily?
Check your ejector for carbon buildup, and be sure your extractor has spring tension. You may just have a dirty bolt. Take it apart and clean it as that is the easiest thing to do. Start there, and work your way through to broken ejector, ejector spring, extractor spring, etc. Something is causing the issue, and there is a remedy for it. You just need to find it. Good luck.
Older TM 23&P incorrectly states inch pounds as the unit, but later revisions have been corrected to foot pounds. Using inch pounds (or "hand tight") gives an insufficient clamping force, which is what's keeping the assembly together.
@John Doe That makes no sense the cost of a power meteorology die or the patterns or an injection mold die for lost wax casting is so much higher than just turning this part on a live tooling lathe. No way in hell!
@@stiles3711 cost spread over a million castle nuts gets pretty damn cheap. I've seen broken sintered metal parts, this doesn't look like that kind of break.
" We know that not all ARs are the same and only a fool believes that parts are parts." Pat Rogers I'm sure the Just as Good crowd will be along shortly to argue my post. LOL
I lost a dear friend many years ago. He was a master gunsmith and fabricated many things right there in the shop. He was always eager to teach me. You remind me much of him. Wish you were my neighbor!
Thank you very much for the excellent content. Wishing the best for you and yours this holiday season.
That's why I love this channel. Chad shows us stuff you would never think of happening.
Doesn't really matter who produced and/or marketed the product, EVERYONE will have failures. Good, reputable companies just reduce the failure numbers significantly with QC. But they will still have failures.
Correct, however the rate of failure will vary from company to company.
Yes nothing is perfect, but I rather know WHO’S parts are failing just during install to avoid it possibly happening when the firearm is needed to perform God forbid.
The difference is actually where the failure is found. Customer - bad company. QC - good company.
Granted, it's disappointing when we see a failure like this, but if a company is going to be slack in QC in any part on the rifle, the castle nut is a good candidate. It's there to lock the receiver extension in place, and prevent it backing out, but where the receiver extension threads into the lower is what takes the stress from firing. The most stress that castle nut ever experiences is probably when you're torquing it down; after that, it pretty much just sits there, so it's not the kind of part that's likely to fail 2000 rds later. Technically you could fire the rifle with the castle nut completely missing-it would just be a pain to keep holding onto the receiver extension to prevent it spinning out.
I had an Aero castle nut do the same thing. BCM is my go to now.
BCM is great stuff ....BCM lifesaving tools serve US Military Special Operations Units, Department of Homeland Security, responsible American citizens and other government agencies at home and around the world.
You look long enough, BCM has had issues with other parts.
I own both BCM & Aero Precision, & have shot weekly matches for years with no hiccups from either of these companies guns/parts.
If it's an Aero Precision castle nut, they'll correct the issue.
I've owned and been a enthusiast of the AR15 for almost 20 years now, and I had absolutely no idea a failure like this was even a possibility.
Never seen a castle nut fall
wait until you see it land lol
I’ve seen them galled and marked up badly.
Probably an inclusion in the steel, brittle fracture right at the stress riser caused by the sharp corners at the bottom of the notches. A U-shaped bottom to the castle nut slots would almost certainly eliminate this failure mode.
Thank you sir for what you do........I learn something new with almost every video!!!
Honestly, that's a freak event. There's probably a lot fewer suppliers of these nuts than most people know. Even most large manufacturers probably source them from elsewhere. Look at Colt; they sourced their ambi safeties from Arms Unlimited.
Some types of coatings can cause hydrogen embrittlement, phosphate is one of them. The heat treatment after can be the difference between failure and no failure.
The cracked surfaces are dark in color that would mean that the cracks were there before or during phosphate.
It could also be Stress Corrosion Cracking(SCC) or the rough stock was cracked during extrusion.
S*!T happens sometimes. Looks to be a bad heat treat on the metal.
Something definitely went amiss during the tempering. That is a very obvious conchoidal fracture. No stress fracturing that i could see. Shit was brittle as fuck, my friend.
Your exiled pal,
Da’ath
Wow, thanks for sharing! That's definitely a first time seeing a failure like that. Just a thought, but my guess is a lot of QC will start to diminish with the uptick in manufacturing to try and meet the current demand.
I assembled a lower with an aero castle nut a few weeks back and it popped as well... it didn't break in half but it did split across the castle nut
Maybe a bad batch. I think it's a heat treat issue, personally.
@@tomliemohn624 Wouldn't be surprised, considering how much catch-up AR parts manufacturers have been doing because of panic buying. The question now is whether or not these material quality issues will start popping up in other parts of their product line.
That castle nut looks like it was made via hot isostatic pressing, or metal injection molding, instead of being milled from a solid piece of aluminum or steel which would explain why it broke like glass and why the grain is so visible, my guess cheap Chinesium junk.
Absolutely. The lack of grain tells me it's a MIM or PIM part.
I've have several Aero breach charging handles break, along with one of their castle nuts. I'll no longer be using Aero parts.
This is one of those parts you would think should never fail. It has one job to do and it’s not like it’s a wear part or anything. Makes me want to get spare parts for an entire lower just in case. Wonder what would be a good parts list to have on hand for common failures.
That part looks like it is cast metal is that common for a castle nut?
I agree. That is definitely a cast part.
I love your channel and I've been binge watching all your videos after finding you. I would love to see a video about forge markings on AR uppers in the future, there's not many videos that go into detail about it.
Square bottomed notches create stress risers from corners outward.
Looks like the heat treat is bad...
wouldn't a bad heat treat result in the nut breaking, but also deforming. This looks like a "clean" break to me at both ends so probly not an issue with the heat treatment, but rather the forging itself.I wonder how castle nuts are made now...I assume they are forged first and simply milled, threaded and cut to their final shapes.
@@Atom_Alchemist Poor heat-treating results in a metal piece that's "glass" hard. They become not only rigid and resistant to any deformation, but extremely brittle. This castle nut is a perfect example of what happens with brittle steel.
@@Atom_Alchemist correct, that is one type of bad heat treating. That would generally be "under-doing" it or simply not doing it at all. This is "over-doing" it making it so hard it's brittle. I only know a little of the process, but good explanations and other examples are on 'Forged in Fire'
@@camerons.9304 make sense, Metal working is fun...i will get my forge up and running...one of these days...
@@Atom_Alchemist What you try to achieve while heat treating is a hard surface and overall better material properties. That castle nut looks like it is hardened all the way through what you don't want for a castle nut. Something hardened that way breaks like glass when enough force is applied. In engineering, we use sometimes pins that are hardened all the way through to create predetermined breaking points (of course you can calculate how much force can be applied).
Just happened to me today. Had it at 30, was going to 40 and it snapped. I don't remember where I bought it but this is the second time this has happened to me in 5 years of building.
Wow grain looks really rough on that!
Wow. I’ve never run into that before! 😮
Had a similar problem with one of mine, but thankfully the LGS had plenty of spare parts... definitely split like it was cast vs milled. The replacement was only a couple $, and definitely milled. But yeah, things break, even if you follow the specs.
Could you do a video on how far to screw in the buffer tube? Recently had a tolerance stacking issue where I screwed in the buffer tube over the buffer retainer and it was so barely held on there that the chamfered edge of the buffer retainer ended up chewing into the buffer tube lip as it was getting ready to jump out of the lower. And one more turn of the buffer tube was doing a much better job, but the buffer retainer was still chewing into the buffer tube because the nipple was rubbing against the lip.
When I encounter this I just sand down the end of the tube a tiny bit and/or use a tiny file to just barely notch out some space for the nipple to go through.
Looks like it's sintered powdered metal by the grain. Hard to say though.
The only thing someone can see is broken "grains". Should never use the broken cross section for scientific observation. Doesn't tell almost anything. Most of the time will make people mislead.
Would powdered metal be "mim"?
@@TheRepublicHasBeenLost metal injection moulding is with powdered steel
Thanks for making these videos!
Jus had this happen to a geissele castle nut. Probably around the same torque number. Scared me for a second. I thought I broke the reciever but no damage other the the castle nut. I like the setup you do with reaction block and the pivot lock
Please do a video on how to properly stake a castle nut. And provide tool info. Thanks.
Thank you, thank you. You are truly awesome
Seen the same thing about a week ago with a PSA castle nut.
I just had a psa AR safety switch break on me, atleast its on fire but im ordering extra parts elsewhere
I was just as shocked as you seem
Threads are miscut or misrolled, depth and height all over the place. Look at the profile of the threads on the part facing the camera at 0:59 .... standard torque basically ripped it apart at the first convenient stress riser. Probably some worn out tooling wherever this was made...
Great video
That looks cast
I've tightened 11, possible up to 14 castle nuts, never seen anything like this!
Hah! My new kp15 lower will never have that problem. :D
I ran into a phosphate cover plate that was so hard it wouldn't stake properly. The punch barely made a dent.
"heat treat issue"
My thoughts exactly. Look at the sections where it's broken off: very coarse grain structure. Granted, I've never cracked open a good castle nut to see what the grain structure is supposed to look like, but typically when steel is that coarse, it's not a sign of a proper heat treat for a high tensile strength part.
@@doktorfaustus You should never use broken cross sections of steel to gather information from. Or at least i feel like i should tell you that it's not recommended. It's all broken, sorry i have to use the word ''grains''. You're only going to get mislead by judging steel by the colloqually named ''grains''. It's all broken. If you're looking for austenite, retained austenite, etc. You're gonna need to cut, mirror polish, etch, and get a powerful microscope out and then spend a few hours looking for key things that indicated this or that... Takeda's Super Aogami kitchen knives, with this mentality of using a broken knife to gather information from, have ''the worst grains ever''. But it's not true, some carbides are simply larger than other carbides, and different alloy steels, heats and heat exposure allows for different elements to behave differently during the heat treating processes. The alloying elements combined with heat exposure of whatever alloy that caslte nut is has a bigger impact on the ''grain structure'' than whether it's been heat treated badly or not.
Now yes of course you can see differences in the cross section depending on your heat treats etc. But they're generally not a good indication that you're doing something right or wrong. That's the main point to take.
Lower parts kits- can you give a few options on brands to avoid and brands to seek out?
Interesting, on my first assembly I didn't have a spanner wrench so used a dead blow hammer and a punch, I guess PSA turns out quality parts because I know I surpassed spec by a few pounds and that didn't happen. Glad I didn't overpay for sub quality "Name" brand parts. Good Info.
Same thing happened to me a few months back on a factory Aero lower, but I was taking it off, not putting it on. Broke the exact same way.
An unrelated question to the video at hand but I've heard a fair amount of comments about the head of the cam pin causing damage to the upper receiver for various reasons which raises the question, why does the pin have a head, or such a large head, in the first place? I believe I have a decent understanding of how the system works but I feel I must be missing something with this as it does not seem necessary.
This is my best understanding. The cam pin head helps orient itself for the insertion of the firing pin. The cam pin's head shape is to keep it aligned in the upper receiver's channel, as the bolt carrier group (BCG) reciprocates during the firing action, so as to avoid undo stress on the firing pin, which rides safely inside the pin's hole. When the BCG goes forward, the cam pin cants to the left, locking in the bolt for the firing sequence. The mass of the head is to withstand the force of the canting of the bolt back to the right, as the gas violently forces the BCG rearward after the ignition phase. If you look in the channel of the upper receiver, you will see a semi-circle notch; this is where the cam pin head cants first to the left to lock in the bolt and then to the rights itself, during the rearward action.
I have a bear creek arsenal castle nut that isn't staked and it's loose. It didn't come staked either. Do you recommend I take it to a gunsmith to have them fix it before I fire it?
MIM?
Wow never seen that happen before.
So would you consider nitride parts stronger or better than phosphate?
If it was used, it might have been cracked in an earlier installation.
I know this is about castle nuts, but I just finished a build and I had a question about installing the barrel nut. We used white lithium grease for the threads on the barrel nut and receiver. Is that a good choice or should I be concerned and take my upper apart to use proper aeroshell? We couldn’t find it anywhere so we thought white lithium grease would do the trick.
If man made it, it can fail.
I’ve tightened those down with a punch and hammer before. Guess I should be more careful... not likely tho
I know it's not the SOTAR way, but I typically tighten mine with soft jaw pliers (with aeroshell on the threads), then tighten it up with a hammer and punch, check alignment of the buffer tube, then stake it.
Always something new with you 👍🏼
Thank you
FT Pounds ? Doesn’t the colt manual say 40 inch pounds ?
I've had one pop before. Had my torque wrench set at 40 ft lbs. Only cracked in one spot
I’ve never seen that before.
I had an Aero Precision castle nut fail as well. Same crack.
Just goes to show any part can fail.
guess we all need forged D2 tool steel castle nuts now
I just installed a palmetto LPK. The mag release snapped where the threaded post meets the actual mag tab. This is right after the gas tube pulled out of the gasblock cause they forgot to pin it. Garbage if you ask me
It happened to me... scared the shit outta me.
What do you think of the choices of components in the WWSD2020 project? Also what do you think about some upgrades that POF does to rifles such as cam roller pin E2 extraction and cooling fins on barrel nut?
Castle Nut is a weak point of that style of stock fpr sure. But will never be problem on a KP-15 Mono Lower.
How can one request your services? To be clear, I’m not looking to take a class, but rather have you, personally, work on my rifle? Thank you.
What brand/model was the firearm?
Interesting. Thats the first of those ive physically seen.
I'm really digging this chanel. Hiw are you and your wife feeling? Any other techniques for aligning receiver extensions ,for those of us with out that nice tool you have?
Im sure chad knows better methods but what i do since i dont have the proper tools is turn the lower upside down and sit it on a flat level surface so that the receiver extension is hanging off (cant have the hammer installed for this) and put a small torpedo level on the flat side of the buffer tube and then adjust until its level. I have tons of woodworking tools so this was the first thing i went to trying to align mine.
@@abolishtheatfandrepealthen6014 that makes
Sense.
It looks like a Cast made part. Did it come from Aero or unknown source?
Any signs of porosity? Although, I don’t think castle nuts are cast parts though, right? Or, is that potentially a heat treat failure?
and so castle nuts made of sand fall in the sea eventually
I just inherited a Rock River Arms elite operator 2. I believe it has a commercial buffer tube. Would you recommend changing it out? The castle nut isn't staked, that's why I thought of this question.
Do you plan on changing the stock? Or want the ability to change out stock? ..... if no, and there are no issues with the tube, stock etc then i would say just stake the castle nut and drive on....if you want a new stock or the ability to change them out then go ahed and change it out.
Staking is not permanent, it can be undone (see Chad's video on it). The reason for staking is the prevent rotation of the castle nut from continued operation of the firearm. I use Vibratite VC3 and I also stake in two places. When I go to undo it, I use a torch to weaken the adhesive and then an armorer's wrench and hammer to force the castle nut loose. You can always use a thin screw driver to force the staked material back out of the castle nut notch to make it easier.
Thats a first. Never seen or heard of this happening. One question, was the torque wrench being used a click wrench or a scale & pointer? I only ask as is it possible that the torque wrench being used had a bad moment?
0:55 he says a beam style torque wrench.
@@vmtcmt those beams really can't have bad monents unless the pointer is bent and hanging. They really can take abuse and keep going and read dead nuts on.
Thankyou for the reply.
Any opinion on the Primary Weapon Systems ratcheting castle nut?
I use them on all my builds, nice finish , simple to install ,never had one loosen up...
Looks and sounds like cheap cast or stamped pot metal.
a MiM part?
Airsoft parts maybe?
I've run into that with a handguard that i got second hand.
I rather that happening while building then it snapping in use
Thanks for reminding us that things man made do fail and to be alert. I was wondering if you could recommend a good quality internal bore scope that I could get that wont break the bank yet worth investing my money in, Thanks
This is Donna, Chad's wife. Look at Teslong on Amazon. There are several models. Great quality for the price.
@@onna-day7047 thanks, can you tell me what his is, just wondering. Thanks
@@anthonyhablinski9852 Chad uses a Hawkeye.
Is that a MIM part? The inside looks mim to me
The next time I go to install a castle nut I will bounce it off the concrete a couple times and sure it's up to the task.
One too many uga ugas
I'm fast as fuck boi
Tiger Rock
Always wear eye protection you are all so lucky. 🤗
For the want of a nail..
I have A problem with my ar15 it will not eject the brass after Firing can you help me please. Thank you
Your gun might be under gassed. If you have low profile gas block start there. Make sure the bolt carrier is not binding on anything. Does bolt carrier go into battery easily?
Check your ejector for carbon buildup, and be sure your extractor has spring tension. You may just have a dirty bolt. Take it apart and clean it as that is the easiest thing to do. Start there, and work your way through to broken ejector, ejector spring, extractor spring, etc. Something is causing the issue, and there is a remedy for it. You just need to find it. Good luck.
Check the chamber for rough surfaces
Check it for proper headspace with a Go gauge.
Safest bet would be for you to take it to a gunsmith with a solid reputation with AR’s.
@@EarthAltar - more likely to be carbon buildup in the chamber
Great failure glad you got it on vid
Shit happens with all manufacturer’s parts
I've seen others have the same thing happen to their aero castle nuts 🤔
Aero QC strikes again
Weird
Chinesium?
Foot pounds or inch pounds?
Ft lbs. Spec for the castle nut torque is 38-42 ft lbs.
Older TM 23&P incorrectly states inch pounds as the unit, but later revisions have been corrected to foot pounds.
Using inch pounds (or "hand tight") gives an insufficient clamping force, which is what's keeping the assembly together.
Chinese castle nut.
That's *really* weird. Looks like classic brittle failure, if that was a steel part it's like it was grossly over hardened and somehow not tempered.
It is from hydrogen embrittlement. Yes parkerizing has that effect when the part is new or did not have a post heating operation.
it had a stress riser and it cracked. happens all the time forging knives. There needs to be a radius in the corners not a sharp 90* edge.
@John Doe That makes no sense the cost of a power meteorology die or the patterns or an injection mold die for lost wax casting is so much higher than just turning this part on a live tooling lathe. No way in hell!
@@stiles3711 cost spread over a million castle nuts gets pretty damn cheap.
I've seen broken sintered metal parts, this doesn't look like that kind of break.
@@tommeboy3334 agree that is a likely cause.
" We know that not all ARs are the same and only a fool believes that parts are parts." Pat Rogers
I'm sure the Just as Good crowd will be along shortly to argue my post. LOL
This is why I use STEEL nuts.....
Use titanium:
carcrusher.imgbb.com
you won't break these.
I hope you punched him in the face and threw him out of your class! That’s not acceptable! just kidding s#it happens
Need to get some 🦆.