What an incredibly awful logo... it's designed to slap anyone who wants reasonable firearms use, and legislation, right in the face, and pretty much turns a lot of would-be supporters away from your channel, before even seeing one second of your content... Could be sad, if you wanted broad support? Have a decent day...
His logo is a bunch of gears and parts inside the cranial cavity of one's head. Which is what this company is about. His logo has parts and mechanics on the mind. If that's offensive to anyone, they probably need some self evaluation in their emotional maturity level.
Food for thought here. Have used these numerous times, but never considered the ratchet possibly wearing out. Have never had any come loose and have re-used them a few times. Great video! Hopefully PWS sees it.
Yeah same, PSA rifle with buckets of rounds through it and it would keep folks like this channel up at night if they knew how mine was assembled😂 I still love this channel though.
Everyone saying that staking is old and dumb and not used in X industry is sorely mistaken. I’m an aircraft structural engineer with 20 years experience supporting field and heavy maintenance and repairs. I’ve never once worked a commercial airliner, private business jet, or military aircraft that didn’t have some staked parts. It’s a viable and effective method and not archaic or “no longer used” at all. As the late, great Will Larson used to say, “Stake your f@$!ing castle nut, you godless heathen!” 😂
But Brian, you mean you don't just slather aircraft fasteners with threadlocker that takes 600 degrees of heat to remove and possibly weaken aluminum components? 😊
I can agree with you 100% about this specific castle nut set up. I was running the pws set up at a project appleseed and after the first day the castle nut had come loose. Tightened it again in the field. Contacted pws and they requested specific pictures of the ratched tooth. Odd. They did cover it under warranty, but I moved back to a standard castle nut and end plate WITH staking. Zero issues after that. Good vid! We need to see more of the shop cat!
I have 3 of those pws castle nuts. Removed and reused them over and over with thousands of rounds and never had a issue, I just check on them once in while and if anything comes up I’ll just use that vibratite.
I have never staked any of the castle nuts on any of mine and haven't had any come loose. Properly torqued they should stay tight even without staked or locktite. I'll use locktite before staking
I have used the PWS castle nuts on 3 builds. Changed out the buffer tube on one of my lowers and noticed the tooth/pawl had a good amount of wear. During reinstallation I used the same vibra tite vc3 product on the threads as an extra insurance policy. I believe this video is solid advice. YMMV.
Damn....I have one that I bought for my first full AR15 build. I wasn't at all familiar with building ARs so I wanted the chance to be able to fix\fidget with it after it was done, in case I did something wrong. I built that thing one spring at a time, slowly buying parts for it over a couple years and I was convinced I'd have to "tune" it after completion. Nope. Runs like an absolute dream and I never did have to tweak a single thing, so I completely forgot about the ratcheting castle nut until this video popped up. Always great info in these SOTAR videos.
I've built both mine the same way as you. I watch for a sale on premium components and buy one or two at a time. This allows me to use higher end parts on a budget. I thought mine would need some tweaking but they both worked perfectly right from the start. You really learn how they work when you build your own. I've learned a lot. I took the heating elements out of an old toaster oven and I'm going to build an oven with metal studs, rockwool and sheet metal and Ceracote them. I already have a gravity feed touchup paint gun. That will make everything match as far as the receivers and handguard.
a 1 and done type of set. well, this one hits home for me, becuase i am using one. I did follow all the rules and install procedures tourqe etc.. and I have not , nor do i , intend to remove any part any time soon.. but, this truly makes sense.. ALSO, thanx for the product name thread locker! i am will be investing into it, not just for my firearms, but a few important machinary things i got going on in my bard. again, awesome video, thank u for the info!
Anything to avoid staking and add more complication to an inherently simple thing. Or just hit it with 38-42 with Aeroshell 64, stake in two locations, and be done with it.
Interesting, the PWS caste nut/ endplate is what I use for my AR-15s and so far they haven't come loose on me yet after taking them off once or twice each. I'll have to watch that next time I take them off.
Gotta love when you tell someone the part they are using is inferior and they don't like it. My favorite is when they post about how they use theirs all the time and it hasn't failed. Qualitative vs quantitative round count statements.... Gotta love it. I once asked one of my customers what his quantity for "a lot of shooting" was and he replied two cases of ammo a year. I didn't have the heart to tell him that was an average month for me during the summer. Just keep posting the truth, Chad. Just ignore the "Ive got one of these and reused it literally dozens of times" posts.
Well if people have used it without issue I like to know it and am glad they post a comment about it. Just because someone wants to not recommend using something doesn’t make their opinion right and others wrong. They are just giving their first hand account of the PWS working without issue.
@@MotleyMan-kr1xo Bonafides matters. So do statistical standards. Neither exist in the scenario you just relayed nor in the plethora of posts on this video. In statistics, n equals the sample size. n=1 isn't a quantitative sample size and anything less than three is essentially meaningless. That's the problem with taking just anyone's opinion. You have no way to gauge the validity of it. I know for a fact that Chad has seen more than one of these ratcheting systems, and more than three of the various types out there. That in of itself validates his opinion over anyone that bought one and is randomly weighing in that 'mine works'.
@@seanmtactical6069 Everything works until it doesn't. Mine is still working great, better than staking and removing a castle nut 3 times swapping the tube.
saving me $40 saving us all an extra part that we want but don't need. do you recommend the POF roller cam pin the RCA Adjustable Gas Key any adjustable gas block? any part that can take an AR15/10 into a better firearm? Garand thumb ice test I was thinking an Extended/Large: charging handle, magazine release, solid selector would be better, maybe having a stronger spring or being side charger. Luth-AR Extended Safety Selector LR-08AL
like the PWS Ratchet and I recently bought one to put it on. Could you make a video on how to install it Correctly? It would be appreciated. Greetings from Barcelona (Spain)🙋🏻♂️👌🏻👍🏻🇪🇸🔥
I have a regular castle nut and didn't stake it, but I degreased both surfaces and put thread locker on it and properly torqued it and it is not coming loose after a couple of years. I'm planning on upgrading to the VLTOR A5 system. After I do that and Ceracote I will stake it exactly like Chad from SOTAR says to do.. Right now I'm not worried about it, I'm not going on combat missions. Cleaning the surfaces first with acetone is the key to making thread locker perform correctly. There can be no type of oily residue for thread locker or any kind of adhesive to work correctly. The metal has to be completely stripped of all impurities.
Have them on 2 of my builds, but I'm no operator. Very low volume shooting. As in, like once a year lol. Love assembling with them. Would like to see them come out with a updated stronger version. But now I just watched your "Go Tango Uniform" staking tool video... and I don't know that I'll need to buy one of these ratcheting ones ever again.
I’m not surprised, I had my concerns and never planned on removing mine nor would I have reused for that very concern. I won’t be buying anymore for sure
I have one of the pws sets, buffer tube, nut and endplate.. I was considering installing it on one receiver, but was not sure about the ratcheting deal.. I do like the buffer tube. I may just install the buffer tube with a standard plate and nut so I don’t have to be concerned
I’ve never tried these, nor had the desire. It is quite satisfying to line up your staking punch, make the initial hit, then beautifully move that material into the notch. 🤷♂️ That said…didn’t KAC at one point not stake theirs from the factory (or maybe they still do)? If so, I wonder if they used any type of locking agent on threads. I believe Chad has stated in other videos if the lower, extension, and nut all have the proper class of threads it, and proper torque is applied, it should not break loose in theory.
i have like 6 of these in use but have never had them come loose. course i don't run my guns with them super hard. but I think i'll get that vc-3 and apply it to the tube just in case.
so, I have never staked or used a locking style of castle nut. I have also never had any issues after thousands or rounds with any of my builds, what is the importance? What problems does staking a castle nut solve or is it presumptive in nature? Why is a dab of blue locktite not as good or even preferable?
Considering the receiver extension sustains all of the force of the reciprocatint bolt carrier, I'd be shocked if locktite was sufficient. Besides that, it wasn't really designed to be a regularly swapped part. That, I suspect, is part of the reason. Just to ensure it's a semi permanent install.
I bought one of these to try and my problem was it did ratchet. But as I was getting it to torque spec I turned through all the clicks and it’s just being held by torque 🙄🙄
Good advice. I have a few of these. Haven’t had the need to take them off, but if I do, I’ll know what to look out for. Or call PWS, they’re a great company lol
I've noticed things go together better when wet vs dry. The sharp, shill screech of metal on metal is one of the worst sounds there is to me. Nails on a chalkboard are a very close second.
That busted my bubble. You’d think that PWS would make better materials for that. PWS uses the same mechanism for their blast forward muzzle device end caps to enable quick cleaning as well. I got mine for quick change out however since you’ve mentioned using that product then that will work. Just looked up Vibra Tite products. They have it in tape form too. Thanks.
After watching this video I began lubing this castle nut when installing and removing. This has prevented added wear and allowed each to be reused without needing thread locker so far. (Taken off once on two separate buffer tubes.) Staking on milspec is the way however, agreed.
Luckily I torqued mine down and painted a witness mark. I mostly got it as an experiment to be honest, mainly because I wanted something with a nicer coating because I live in a very humid environment and I wanted to give myself the largest margin of error with maintenance as possible, because things that are phosphated rust easily around here. That being said, if I notice it working loose I'll just replace it with an FCD plate and nut, and cold blue the exposed metal from staking or hit them with a paint marker or something.
In your experience are unstaked but properly torqued castle nuts less prone to break free on buffer tubes that have the cutout in them that locks around the buffer spring detent in the lower? Seems that this would cut down on the buffer tube's ability to be torqued free theough normal use.
I just purchased this ratcheting castle nut. When ya say torque to spec is it the same as a traditional castle nut? I dont plan on removing / installing it constantly. I'm just piecing together 3x more lowers. I always vibratite the reciever extensions to the lower.😂 its my ocd and i have this nagging "do it once with extra insurance" mindset. So i do plan on vibratiting the buffer tube and castle nut. But idk the correct torque to spec value. I thought since its ratcheting I'll go hand tight til no more. Does anyone know the exact amount?
Maybe Someone Could Design An Upgraded Replacement Version Without The Weak Link Of A Fragle Tooth And Revise It With A Nice Heavy Duty 6-32 Or 8-32 Ball-Detent Setscrew With Torque Specs To Ensure Proper Locking Of The Castle Nut!?! I Don't Like Staking To Secure Anything,It Just Seems So Destructive, Brutal And Primitive, When There Are Positive Alternatives! 😎
I have got a burr on the tail end of my bolt carrier group and it is eating up the face of my buffer if anybody has any recommendations on how to fix will be greatly appreciated. I know it's got to be a burr because when I'm going to lock the upper and lower together you can hear it scratching it. So I don't believe it's a gap issue or the retaining pin for the buffer is out of spec. I'm a single dad raising two young kids by myself and receiving no assistance from the government so I ain't got a lot money even though I do make decent money this inflation sucks
Is staking the castle nut a necessity, or just a best practice? I have one AR that I assembled that is just torqued with no staking, and it hasn't shifted in 3k rounds or so. I'm wondering if it's worth staking it anyway.
I don't have the umpteen years of experience with ARs that Chad has, but here's my 2 cents. I've assembled a lot of lowers at this point. In my opinion, staking is a "extra" guarantee that a properly installed castle nut will not back off, even under the most severe use situations (I stake all of mine). I have purposely left a castle nut unstaked on a beater lower and applied a torque stripe to see if it would shift, and it never started to back off. Sample size of one and all, but my working theory at this point is that if you properly grease the threads and torque 38-42 ft lbs with the correct wrench adapter (offsets the torque wrench about an inch or two) it would hold up to all but the most severe applications. Moral of the story? Properly install and stake your castle nuts and you'll never have to worry about it.
Staking is always a good practice unless the end plate is aluminum (staking wont hold), is overly hard (titanium), or the end plate is brittle (Magpul)
Staking is entirely unnecessary in 99.9% of situations if you properly torque it down. If you want extra insurance use some loctite. Look at any other industry. Automotive, etc and staking or equivalent is rarely if ever used. The only equivalent I can think of is certain bolts on airplanes get safety wired. If it makes you feel better then sure go ahead, but if my car engine can stay together nothing but a torque or torque plus angle spec then I'm not too worried about my castle nut. Especially since if starts to come loose you just tighten it back down. Your ar isn't going to suddenly fall apart on you if it comes loose. It doesn't actually hold the buffer tube on the gun. It helps keep the tube from backing out and holds the safety detent in. It would be annoying, but if you hold the safety to keep it from turning you could keep shooting if that fell out. The stock in your shoulder should prevent the tube from rotating too badly if any. Of course the caveat to all this is you have to take the time to properly torque it.
I have a four year old PWS MOD 2 AR. I've actually used the Ambi lower on a couple different uppers and the castle nut has never came loose. Never took it off, but I'll change it out eventually. I much prefer something like a BCM end plate and Colt Castle nut.
I purchased this very item a couple of years ago, along with their “enhanced buffer tube”. Upon receiving it, I noted the tiny locking pin, and thought it seemed small and fragile/weak, and the corresponding ratcheting teeth as well… It would appear the the casting of the plate is pretty sound. Ahh, but I am no engineer. I would have thought that a detent ball of some sort would have been better. Your pointing out that the “pin” wears flat never entered my mind. I thought at the time, that this company’s “enhanced buffer tube”, had some merit (and apparently subsequently so did Aero Precision, I own on of theirs). Your video(s) on proper staking of the castle nut, (like what Mr. Stoner originally employed), have made me a believer in its’ proper use. I not commenting to “beat-up” on this company’s manufacturer & sale of this item, by any means. It may have a purpose for some who are not concerned with real world reliability for self defense, of a platform the likes of an AR-style rifle. Great video, Thank you sir.
You buy the PWS castle nut buffer tube combo for the racheting system. I buy the combo for the ultra light 7075 T6 impact extrusion buffer tube. We are not the same.
I have one and I didn't know that you didn't need to reuse ...it came loose on it's own I had to pry that little ratchet up a very little bit and it has held so far
It implement a different locking scenario. As you note it has lever type lock what not required that much force to move over ratcheting tooth's. There no single locking tooth like on PWS, what actually may have wear once installed I guess. I use Fortis and have not a single problem yet. I respect Chad opinion, but it may in view of PWS design only
It's a gimmick for those that can't be bothered to learn how to do it correctly. $40 for this vs. $4 for an automatic center punch at Harbor Freight and it only takes a minute to stake, and $5 for a mil-spec end plate.
This design could be improved. A slightly larger diameter hardened pin that screws in with fine threads and sell the device with about 5 extra pins. You could get a couple of uses from each pin. I think the current setup is probably good for two uses anyway.
Ratcheting castle nuts and endplates: All the expendability of traditional staking at multiple times the cost. A cost ineffective solution looking for problems.
Look up the technical data for blue. It's not for a 1" fastener. Unless you use the stick or gel version, it can also migrate to places you don't want it to go. Loctite blue also requires more heat and force than should be applied to this part of the gun for maintenance. This leads to damaged or weakened parts.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifleIts a lost cause for some of these simps, your castle nut NEEDS to be staked period. The military spends millions to test everything and they do it for a reason obviously. Everything of mine is staked always no questions asked so thank you for proper info always.
Maybe I'm just the luckiest man alive. I have 3 ARs that I personally built. One has over 1000 rounds through it. I didn't stale the castle nut on any of them. And none have ever come lose. I hunt with them and pack one in my truck most days. I use steel nuts on steel QD plates.
Even an unstaked castle nut coming lose is rare. And it depends on the recoil impulse of the rifle. But the problem is, when one of your guns finally does come loose (it'll happen eventually) it flat out disables your gun. Usually when you need it the most.
@@tireballastserviceofflorid7771incorrect. If the Castle nut loosens, the buffer tube will have enough play to not allow the weapon to cycle completely. The carrier will bind on the tube or the buffer detent will unseat. If the detent unseats the gun is deadlined in most instances. Most people will omit the detent all in a grand effort to not install with the proper methods.
I’ve reused them multiple times and never had issues. I’m a pilot part time and stole the torque striping method from the aviation industry. I’ve never seen the torque stripe on a castle nut misaligned. I’ve never seen them loosen up. Not saying they don’t but with proper care they’re good to go.
What an incredibly awful logo... it's designed to slap anyone who wants reasonable firearms use, and legislation, right in the face, and pretty much turns a lot of would-be supporters away from your channel, before even seeing one second of your content... Could be sad, if you wanted broad support?
Have a decent day...
All gun laws are infringement, and I don't seek broad support.
Where can we send your refund?
His logo is a bunch of gears and parts inside the cranial cavity of one's head. Which is what this company is about. His logo has parts and mechanics on the mind. If that's offensive to anyone, they probably need some self evaluation in their emotional maturity level.
I still don't know what he's so ass blasted about
What's wrong with the logo bro? Is there like a hidden meaning that I'm not getting?
Food for thought here. Have used these numerous times, but never considered the ratchet possibly wearing out. Have never had any come loose and have re-used them a few times. Great video! Hopefully PWS sees it.
Here I am, having fired thousands of rounds without a problem and I just use a dead blow and a screwdriver to tighten my castle nuts lol
Yeah same, PSA rifle with buckets of rounds through it and it would keep folks like this channel up at night if they knew how mine was assembled😂 I still love this channel though.
Everyone saying that staking is old and dumb and not used in X industry is sorely mistaken.
I’m an aircraft structural engineer with 20 years experience supporting field and heavy maintenance and repairs. I’ve never once worked a commercial airliner, private business jet, or military aircraft that didn’t have some staked parts. It’s a viable and effective method and not archaic or “no longer used” at all.
As the late, great Will Larson used to say, “Stake your f@$!ing castle nut, you godless heathen!” 😂
But Brian, you mean you don't just slather aircraft fasteners with threadlocker that takes 600 degrees of heat to remove and possibly weaken aluminum components? 😊
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifleIs there a difference between vibratite VC-3 and red loc tite?
@@chuckb3489You mean the “permanent” red loctite? Yes there is a difference. Please don’t use that red loctite on your castle nut.
Lots of older British airplanes stake literally every fastener. Must be an absolute pain to work on. 😂
I didn't realize castle nut staking isn't permanent! Your wisdom is deeply appreciated. Thank you!
Easy to remove a staked castle nut as well.
Have you considered doing a intro to gun maintenance series for beginners that includes a introduction to all the tools and such a beginner will need?
He's got plenty of videos going over the tools he likes to use. Plus there's brownells which will even provide a link for what they talk about
@@BarnDoor-won5ve yeah but I'm talking about 1 single comprehensive video or at least making a playlist
I messaged him about doing a video series version of his class either on Patreon or some other paid format and he said it's in the works.
Ive taken mine off a few times and I checked for wear and there was none. I will continue to inspect it if I ever change the tube again.
Would love a list or video of all the different fluids you use for cleaning, tighting, and lubricating. Also for other special cases like this.
I know a lot of this stuff seems mundane, but thank you for sharing your experince and knowledge!
I can agree with you 100% about this specific castle nut set up. I was running the pws set up at a project appleseed and after the first day the castle nut had come loose. Tightened it again in the field.
Contacted pws and they requested specific pictures of the ratched tooth. Odd. They did cover it under warranty, but I moved back to a standard castle nut and end plate WITH staking. Zero issues after that.
Good vid! We need to see more of the shop cat!
I’ll never get tired of seeing this man’s stakes. They’re so perfect 🙌🏽
I've had really good luck with the Fortis lever locking castle nut.
I have 3 of those pws castle nuts. Removed and reused them over and over with thousands of rounds and never had a issue, I just check on them once in while and if anything comes up I’ll just use that vibratite.
You just punctuated his point by stating, “I just check on them once in a while.” If I can avoid the need to check on something, I will.
@@1rstTryand the fact that he’s had no issue has not stopped you from agreeing with yourself. Shocking.
@@1rstTryyou should always check on your castle nut regardless of how good the staking is. This is basic preventative weapon maintenance.
@@hellcatdave1 should always check all nuts for health.
@@asherdiesee what you did there...👍😅
*here i am never staking my castle nuts* 😂😂😂
That was me until I decided to check the castle nut on my SBR by hand and it spun right off.
@@spacecaesar7619glad you learned from the mistake. Many AR owners are too stubborn to listen to experience.
I have never staked any of the castle nuts on any of mine and haven't had any come loose. Properly torqued they should stay tight even without staked or locktite. I'll use locktite before staking
The only good reason to not stake is if you ever want to change any buffer or pivot pin parts without having to get another end plate.
Someone is always trying to invent the better mousetrap but simplicity is better.
I have used the PWS castle nuts on 3 builds. Changed out the buffer tube on one of my lowers and noticed the tooth/pawl had a good amount of wear. During reinstallation I used the same vibra tite vc3 product on the threads as an extra insurance policy. I believe this video is solid advice. YMMV.
I was thinking of getting some of these pws ratchet castle nuts, thankfully yesterday I seen your recomend on the echo zulu kits. Thank you Sir.
I absolutely love your vids. One day I would like to take your class. Lord willing.
Appreciate the content, as always very clearly put and to the point 👍👍
Damn....I have one that I bought for my first full AR15 build. I wasn't at all familiar with building ARs so I wanted the chance to be able to fix\fidget with it after it was done, in case I did something wrong. I built that thing one spring at a time, slowly buying parts for it over a couple years and I was convinced I'd have to "tune" it after completion. Nope. Runs like an absolute dream and I never did have to tweak a single thing, so I completely forgot about the ratcheting castle nut until this video popped up.
Always great info in these SOTAR videos.
I've built both mine the same way as you. I watch for a sale on premium components and buy one or two at a time. This allows me to use higher end parts on a budget. I thought mine would need some tweaking but they both worked perfectly right from the start. You really learn how they work when you build your own. I've learned a lot.
I took the heating elements out of an old toaster oven and I'm going to build an oven with metal studs, rockwool and sheet metal and Ceracote them. I already have a gravity feed touchup paint gun. That will make everything match as far as the receivers and handguard.
a 1 and done type of set. well, this one hits home for me, becuase i am using one. I did follow all the rules and install procedures tourqe etc.. and I have not , nor do i , intend to remove any part any time soon.. but, this truly makes sense.. ALSO, thanx for the product name thread locker! i am will be investing into it, not just for my firearms, but a few important machinary things i got going on in my bard. again, awesome video, thank u for the info!
Thanks for all your videos! I don't even own an AR-15 yet, but I've learned so much just watching your videos.
Anything to avoid staking and add more complication to an inherently simple thing. Or just hit it with 38-42 with Aeroshell 64, stake in two locations, and be done with it.
Always just do this it’s too much easier to complicate
Thanks for the info, I was thinking of using the FORTIS on a build, but I'm gonna think on it some more 🤔
Bought two and neither held from the start
Everybody wants to sell shit to fix shit that isn't broken.
I'm fine with staking ...
Interesting, the PWS caste nut/ endplate is what I use for my AR-15s and so far they haven't come loose on me yet after taking them off once or twice each. I'll have to watch that next time I take them off.
At minimum a witness mark to at least keep it noticeable if it did move. Have used these on two of my builds so far.
Gotta love when you tell someone the part they are using is inferior and they don't like it. My favorite is when they post about how they use theirs all the time and it hasn't failed. Qualitative vs quantitative round count statements.... Gotta love it. I once asked one of my customers what his quantity for "a lot of shooting" was and he replied two cases of ammo a year. I didn't have the heart to tell him that was an average month for me during the summer. Just keep posting the truth, Chad. Just ignore the "Ive got one of these and reused it literally dozens of times" posts.
Well if people have used it without issue I like to know it and am glad they post a comment about it. Just because someone wants to not recommend using something doesn’t make their opinion right and others wrong. They are just giving their first hand account of the PWS working without issue.
@@MotleyMan-kr1xo Bonafides matters. So do statistical standards. Neither exist in the scenario you just relayed nor in the plethora of posts on this video. In statistics, n equals the sample size. n=1 isn't a quantitative sample size and anything less than three is essentially meaningless. That's the problem with taking just anyone's opinion. You have no way to gauge the validity of it. I know for a fact that Chad has seen more than one of these ratcheting systems, and more than three of the various types out there. That in of itself validates his opinion over anyone that bought one and is randomly weighing in that 'mine works'.
Mine is a different brand then this and it has no wear after taking it off twice. Maybe this is just shitty metal, or the teeth are sharper on his.
@@seanmtactical6069 Everything works until it doesn't. Mine is still working great, better than staking and removing a castle nut 3 times swapping the tube.
saving me $40
saving us all an extra part that we want but don't need.
do you recommend
the POF roller cam pin
the RCA Adjustable Gas Key
any adjustable gas block?
any part that can take an AR15/10 into a better firearm?
Garand thumb ice test I was thinking an Extended/Large:
charging handle, magazine release, solid selector would be better, maybe having a stronger spring or being side charger.
Luth-AR Extended Safety Selector LR-08AL
like the PWS Ratchet and I recently bought one to put it on. Could you make a video on how to install it Correctly? It would be appreciated. Greetings from Barcelona (Spain)🙋🏻♂️👌🏻👍🏻🇪🇸🔥
Great stuff as always. Thanks.
I have a regular castle nut and didn't stake it, but I degreased both surfaces and put thread locker on it and properly torqued it and it is not coming loose after a couple of years.
I'm planning on upgrading to the VLTOR A5 system. After I do that and Ceracote I will stake it exactly like Chad from SOTAR says to do..
Right now I'm not worried about it, I'm not going on combat missions.
Cleaning the surfaces first with acetone is the key to making thread locker perform correctly. There can be no type of oily residue for thread locker or any kind of adhesive to work correctly. The metal has to be completely stripped of all impurities.
@SchooloftheAmericanRifle what do you think about the LWRC alternate method to traditional staking with their castle nut and end plate system?
What’s the right torque value? I just cracked it down until it couldn’t move
Always seen these as an extra cost with no benefit. Some parts of the AR just dont need "improvement." This is one of them.
Have them on 2 of my builds, but I'm no operator. Very low volume shooting. As in, like once a year lol. Love assembling with them. Would like to see them come out with a updated stronger version. But now I just watched your "Go Tango Uniform" staking tool video... and I don't know that I'll need to buy one of these ratcheting ones ever again.
I have 2. Never had an issue with them comin loose or walking off. Just my own personal experience.
I’m not surprised, I had my concerns and never planned on removing mine nor would I have reused for that very concern. I won’t be buying anymore for sure
I have one of the pws sets, buffer tube, nut and endplate.. I was considering installing it on one receiver, but was not sure about the ratcheting deal.. I do like the buffer tube. I may just install the buffer tube with a standard plate and nut so I don’t have to be concerned
I have a few of these I use on my Ak's with buffer tubes and I do notice they back off a few clicks occasionally.
That logo is cool AF....where do i get one ? 🇺🇸✊
I’ve never tried these, nor had the desire. It is quite satisfying to line up your staking punch, make the initial hit, then beautifully move that material into the notch. 🤷♂️ That said…didn’t KAC at one point not stake theirs from the factory (or maybe they still do)? If so, I wonder if they used any type of locking agent on threads.
I believe Chad has stated in other videos if the lower, extension, and nut all have the proper class of threads it, and proper torque is applied, it should not break loose in theory.
Have three. One came loose from the factory 😂
Do a video on thermal fitting on a barrel, thanks
If that part ever wore out I'm sure the manufacturer would send you another one.
PWS does have phenomenal customer service. In my experiences
I used these for a while before I learned to stake properly. Never had issue but ive never removed one either.
i have like 6 of these in use but have never had them come loose. course i don't run my guns with them super hard. but I think i'll get that vc-3 and apply it to the tube just in case.
On the instructions for vc3 it says to wait for the thread to dry with the thread locker. In your experience it's better to assemble it wet?
Does Vibratite require a primer when the metal is coated with a finish?
so, I have never staked or used a locking style of castle nut. I have also never had any issues after thousands or rounds with any of my builds, what is the importance? What problems does staking a castle nut solve or is it presumptive in nature? Why is a dab of blue locktite not as good or even preferable?
Considering the receiver extension sustains all of the force of the reciprocatint bolt carrier, I'd be shocked if locktite was sufficient. Besides that, it wasn't really designed to be a regularly swapped part. That, I suspect, is part of the reason. Just to ensure it's a semi permanent install.
Good to know. Thanks Chad!
I bought one of these to try and my problem was it did ratchet. But as I was getting it to torque spec I turned through all the clicks and it’s just being held by torque 🙄🙄
Not great if you plan to always take it on and off, for sure. I've had the PWS one on my AR for a few years now, and it hasn't moved once.
How bad is it that I only used blue Loctite?
Thank You sir 👍🇺🇸
Good advice. I have a few of these. Haven’t had the need to take them off, but if I do, I’ll know what to look out for. Or call PWS, they’re a great company lol
So what’s to stop me from using vibratite and a regular castle but without staking? Wouldn’t the vibratite hold it on?
I've noticed things go together better when wet vs dry. The sharp, shill screech of metal on metal is one of the worst sounds there is to me. Nails on a chalkboard are a very close second.
That busted my bubble. You’d think that PWS would make better materials for that. PWS uses the same mechanism for their blast forward muzzle device end caps to enable quick cleaning as well. I got mine for quick change out however since you’ve mentioned using that product then that will work. Just looked up Vibra Tite products. They have it in tape form too. Thanks.
After watching this video I began lubing this castle nut when installing and removing. This has prevented added wear and allowed each to be reused without needing thread locker so far. (Taken off once on two separate buffer tubes.) Staking on milspec is the way however, agreed.
Wonder if the design of the Fortis Enhanced K2 system is any better with their method of the ratcheting system or if it's still inferior to staking.
Luckily I torqued mine down and painted a witness mark. I mostly got it as an experiment to be honest, mainly because I wanted something with a nicer coating because I live in a very humid environment and I wanted to give myself the largest margin of error with maintenance as possible, because things that are phosphated rust easily around here. That being said, if I notice it working loose I'll just replace it with an FCD plate and nut, and cold blue the exposed metal from staking or hit them with a paint marker or something.
Break free force aside, how is that different from staking? If you stake a castle nut and remove it that’s it. Right?
In your experience are unstaked but properly torqued castle nuts less prone to break free on buffer tubes that have the cutout in them that locks around the buffer spring detent in the lower? Seems that this would cut down on the buffer tube's ability to be torqued free theough normal use.
I just purchased this ratcheting castle nut. When ya say torque to spec is it the same as a traditional castle nut? I dont plan on removing / installing it constantly. I'm just piecing together 3x more lowers. I always vibratite the reciever extensions to the lower.😂 its my ocd and i have this nagging "do it once with extra insurance" mindset.
So i do plan on vibratiting the buffer tube and castle nut. But idk the correct torque to spec value. I thought since its ratcheting I'll go hand tight til no more.
Does anyone know the exact amount?
I suggest 38 FT# minimum, then to the next tooth.
Need some more Rebel in your videos!
Thank you very much for this educational video! It’s check your pws ratchet time 🤣!
Maybe Someone Could Design An Upgraded Replacement Version Without The Weak Link Of A Fragle Tooth And Revise It With A Nice Heavy Duty 6-32 Or 8-32 Ball-Detent Setscrew With Torque Specs To Ensure Proper Locking Of The Castle Nut!?!
I Don't Like Staking To Secure Anything,It Just Seems So Destructive, Brutal And Primitive, When There Are Positive Alternatives! 😎
Dumb question here... I've never seen this, is the point to replace staking the nut with the ratchet mech?
Yes, this is to replace the castle nut staking
Please do a video on fortis catching castle nut
I have got a burr on the tail end of my bolt carrier group and it is eating up the face of my buffer if anybody has any recommendations on how to fix will be greatly appreciated. I know it's got to be a burr because when I'm going to lock the upper and lower together you can hear it scratching it. So I don't believe it's a gap issue or the retaining pin for the buffer is out of spec. I'm a single dad raising two young kids by myself and receiving no assistance from the government so I ain't got a lot money even though I do make decent money this inflation sucks
I've really been digging the fortis k1 castle nut
Can confirm. Only castle nut that I had come loose was a pws ratchet.
Is staking the castle nut a necessity, or just a best practice? I have one AR that I assembled that is just torqued with no staking, and it hasn't shifted in 3k rounds or so. I'm wondering if it's worth staking it anyway.
I don't have the umpteen years of experience with ARs that Chad has, but here's my 2 cents. I've assembled a lot of lowers at this point. In my opinion, staking is a "extra" guarantee that a properly installed castle nut will not back off, even under the most severe use situations (I stake all of mine). I have purposely left a castle nut unstaked on a beater lower and applied a torque stripe to see if it would shift, and it never started to back off. Sample size of one and all, but my working theory at this point is that if you properly grease the threads and torque 38-42 ft lbs with the correct wrench adapter (offsets the torque wrench about an inch or two) it would hold up to all but the most severe applications.
Moral of the story? Properly install and stake your castle nuts and you'll never have to worry about it.
Staking is necessary on any self defense or work gun.
Staking is always a good practice unless the end plate is aluminum (staking wont hold), is overly hard (titanium), or the end plate is brittle (Magpul)
Staking is entirely unnecessary in 99.9% of situations if you properly torque it down. If you want extra insurance use some loctite. Look at any other industry. Automotive, etc and staking or equivalent is rarely if ever used. The only equivalent I can think of is certain bolts on airplanes get safety wired. If it makes you feel better then sure go ahead, but if my car engine can stay together nothing but a torque or torque plus angle spec then I'm not too worried about my castle nut. Especially since if starts to come loose you just tighten it back down. Your ar isn't going to suddenly fall apart on you if it comes loose. It doesn't actually hold the buffer tube on the gun. It helps keep the tube from backing out and holds the safety detent in. It would be annoying, but if you hold the safety to keep it from turning you could keep shooting if that fell out. The stock in your shoulder should prevent the tube from rotating too badly if any. Of course the caveat to all this is you have to take the time to properly torque it.
@@ameritus9041 just about everything you said is incorrect.
Have them on 3 builds and never let them down. Take them on and off during reconfigurations.
I have a four year old PWS MOD 2 AR. I've actually used the Ambi lower on a couple different uppers and the castle nut has never came loose. Never took it off, but I'll change it out eventually. I much prefer something like a BCM end plate and Colt Castle nut.
I’m just here for Rebel. Huge fan.
I purchased this very item a couple of years ago, along with their “enhanced buffer tube”. Upon receiving it, I noted the tiny locking pin, and thought it seemed small and fragile/weak, and the corresponding ratcheting teeth as well… It would appear the the casting of the plate is pretty sound. Ahh, but I am no engineer.
I would have thought that a detent ball of some sort would have been better. Your pointing out that the “pin” wears flat never entered my mind.
I thought at the time, that this company’s “enhanced buffer tube”, had some merit (and apparently subsequently so did Aero Precision, I own on of theirs). Your video(s) on proper staking of the castle nut, (like what Mr. Stoner originally employed), have made me a believer in its’ proper use.
I not commenting to “beat-up” on this company’s manufacturer & sale of this item, by any means. It may have a purpose for some who are not concerned with real world reliability for self defense, of a platform the likes of an AR-style rifle.
Great video,
Thank you sir.
You buy the PWS castle nut buffer tube combo for the racheting system.
I buy the combo for the ultra light 7075 T6 impact extrusion buffer tube.
We are not the same.
I have one and I didn't know that you didn't need to reuse ...it came loose on it's own I had to pry that little ratchet up a very little bit and it has held so far
And re torque
What about the Fortis MFG K2 ratcheting castle nut?
It implement a different locking scenario. As you note it has lever type lock what not required that much force to move over ratcheting tooth's.
There no single locking tooth like on PWS, what actually may have wear once installed I guess. I use Fortis and have not a single problem yet.
I respect Chad opinion, but it may in view of PWS design only
I didn't even know rhese existed. Seems like I can go on ignoring them.
Have installed and removed multiple times with 10’s of thousands of rounds and never once had one loosen up so I guess it’s a true YMMV item?
Thanks chad!
But no one is reusing old end plates that were staked anyways so why would this be any different
It's a gimmick for those that can't be bothered to learn how to do it correctly. $40 for this vs. $4 for an automatic center punch at Harbor Freight and it only takes a minute to stake, and $5 for a mil-spec end plate.
PWS is a great company. I do consider these one use items. If used like that they’re great.
This design could be improved. A slightly larger diameter hardened pin that screws in with fine threads and sell the device with about 5 extra pins. You could get a couple of uses from each pin. I think the current setup is probably good for two uses anyway.
I learned this the hard way
Ratcheting castle nuts and endplates: All the expendability of traditional staking at multiple times the cost.
A cost ineffective solution looking for problems.
Thank you
I prefer to just drill a hole through my buffer tube, in line with the castle nut slots, and run a cotter pin through it. 👌🏽
A problem in search of a problem.
I found and have used the Fortis K2 castle nuts for years now and they're great. And yes, the are quite re-usable.
Same here
Sometimes I think your opinion is just lack of maintenance problems. Blue lock tight fixes 99% of your problems
Look up the technical data for blue. It's not for a 1" fastener. Unless you use the stick or gel version, it can also migrate to places you don't want it to go. Loctite blue also requires more heat and force than should be applied to this part of the gun for maintenance. This leads to damaged or weakened parts.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifleIts a lost cause for some of these simps, your castle nut NEEDS to be staked period. The military spends millions to test everything and they do it for a reason obviously. Everything of mine is staked always no questions asked so thank you for proper info always.
Check out the Lantac ratcheting castle nut. It's far superior to the PWS.
The collective doofus mind on Reddit must be losing it over this
Maybe I'm just the luckiest man alive. I have 3 ARs that I personally built. One has over 1000 rounds through it. I didn't stale the castle nut on any of them. And none have ever come lose. I hunt with them and pack one in my truck most days. I use steel nuts on steel QD plates.
Even an unstaked castle nut coming lose is rare. And it depends on the recoil impulse of the rifle. But the problem is, when one of your guns finally does come loose (it'll happen eventually) it flat out disables your gun. Usually when you need it the most.
@ragedashboard6374 If it comes lose it won't disable the weapon. A little lose would be felt and would have little effect at all.
@@tireballastserviceofflorid7771incorrect. If the Castle nut loosens, the buffer tube will have enough play to not allow the weapon to cycle completely. The carrier will bind on the tube or the buffer detent will unseat. If the detent unseats the gun is deadlined in most instances.
Most people will omit the detent all in a grand effort to not install with the proper methods.
1000 rounds isn't even broken in. That rifle hasn't had time to fail.
I’ve reused them multiple times and never had issues. I’m a pilot part time and stole the torque striping method from the aviation industry. I’ve never seen the torque stripe on a castle nut misaligned. I’ve never seen them loosen up. Not saying they don’t but with proper care they’re good to go.