I will second this, but the big one I've heard of is bio versus petroleum versus synthetic. Apparently bio (like ballistol and g96) does NOT like petroleum products.
@@ScottKenny1978 you're correct. Clp and ballistol definitely react and leave a congealed slurry behind. I've used them both during refurbishment on an old revolver and while it worked great to lift the rust this would definitely cause problems in the action.
I’m also extremely interested. Wouldn’t mind you going over what sorts of things you prefer to degrease with. There’s a lot of things out there that will degrease the gun but I’m not sure what’s good to use and what’s too aggressive to use.
Just made a batch of your "Sriracha" to see how it works. Made it a tad on the thicker side (looks exactly like ketchup) because it's pretty hot and humid where I am. Binge watching your channel since I found it today. More good info here than several other channels combined. KUTGW!
as a career LEO/Armorer/Long time shooter, it is important if you are working/maintaining firearms for extended periods - ie: daily for years - that you select Lubes/Cleaners that not only work BUT are also health friendly. As mentioned by @MCUT some lubes are down right nasty for you. Either through absorption, ingestion or inhalation (either by Fumes or burn off during firing). Consider always wear PPE (rubber/nitrile gloves/APR if using compressed air) to minimize forms of entry where applicable - and if you are too stubborn to wear gloves, wash your hands before you touch your eyes or eat.
Agreed. Been wearing nitrile gloves for “dirty work” for years. Once you’re accustomed to them, you feel “naked” without them. Also a boon you don’t have to wash your hands as much aka stops them from drying out and cracking. Something anyone in the trades had experienced from using “Lava” or “orange” soaps.
Plant-based oils & greases have long been known for their adverse reactions to heat, humidity and long-term oxygen exposure. Getting gummy/sticky, or hardening, are two historical experiences I've known. And that's not even getting to the issue of cross-compatibility with petrolubes. Sadly, the people who market/sell such bio-lubes never tell much about these weaknesses and instead focus on "being green" or "environment-friendly, NO PETROLEUM!" angles. Always good to be skeptical about "marketing" people and their desire to sell at any cost. After all, they gamble on the very likely fact that hardly anyone's going to sue them for failing to disclose the lube/oil weaknesses that weren't disclosed.
Video is about a month late for me. I was using basic CLP and saw a video about a certain grease. I lubed 12 AR’s with the grease. I went back last week and couldn’t even turn the safeties on them. I’m still in the process of cleaning and relubing.
I got some Cherrybalmz to use on my ars and my 22s. I decided to use their black rifle stuff instead of light oil on a couple of shotguns (Remington 870 pump and Mossberg 930 auto loader). Took my boys skeet shooting and about 2/3 of the way through our box of clays, both guns were locked up so tight I couldn't move the bolts/pump/charging handle. So I feel your pain (not 12 ars worth of pain, but pain nonetheless lol)
@@CorpusCrispy If it wasn't obviously mechanical, then most likely. Grease, once it heats up, runs like oil. That oil picks up carbon and whatnot and suspends it. As soon as the oil cools it turns back into grease, but now it's loaded with carbon.
Hey Chad, do you believe in lapping or trueing the face of the receiver for barrel installation on most guns? Or do you believe it’s pointless as some do? Thanks!
Is it possible to pinpoint certain ingredients that don’t go together? Or if that’s too complicated then even just list some of the more common brands that work or don’t work together? Like let’s say Slip works ok with Shooter’s Choice but definitely not Ballistol, etc. That would be so helpful as I’ve always wondered about this. Thanks for your video as always
I had an fj40. My mechanic used a different grease than I did on the steering centering joint. They reacted so badly the greases foamed up and blew out the seal.
I been using CLP since that is what I learned on in Marine Bootcamp back in 88. Thank you sir for the good information just encase I ever decide to switch 😉👍
I ran a 5.45x39 AR with nothing but 7n6 ammo for years. I always cleaned the gun with water, and eventually with no lubricant at all except on the gas rings and cam pin. Gun ran fine, as long as it was clean. My AK's run dry AND dirty.
Best thing that I learned from watching this video: Sriracha makes a key fob so you can always have their hot sauce wherever you go. I never knew it was a thing! I just bought 10 of the small ones so I can give to friends that can't live without Sriracha. (I already knew about lubricant compatibility/incompatibility issues) =O)
Spray ballistol into a container and then clp... You'll immediately see bubbling as they react. I don't know what it would do used in a firearm because i found out when refurbishing an old revolver. It worked great to lift the rust but it also left some congealed globs of something in the bowl which i would almost guarantee would gunk up the action and possibly cause FTE or FTF issues.
@@jkalash762 fwiw, I use ballistol to clean and have been using clp to lube because i have a lot and wasn't aware its a bad idea. I have never noticed a reaction or any type of corrosion on my firearms due to this, nor has the clp congealed over time.
@@williestroker8627 the only thing it's done for me is the congealing. This was when using very large amounts together. I was soaking an entire 12ga Iver Johnson Champion receiver to loosen the rust from the color case hardening. Was low on ballistol so after the first pass with a nylon brush i added clp on top. Would it be a harmful mix? No just would possibly cause some gunk to build up at worst. My assumption is it was the mineral oil in ballistol although putting pure mineral oil in a bowl and clp does nothing really except bubble a little and make a very thick viscosity oil. What clp do you use? Some are bio based but i was just referencing the break free brand as its most common to see.
@@jkalash762 it is the Break Free clp. I do wipe all the ballistol off the best I can, but I never degrease it. Never had an issue so far but you can bet I will be taking extra care these days! I will be switching to just ballistol after I run out of clp now as well!
I prefer Frank's Red Hot to Sriracha lube. But seriously, I watched the homebrew vid, amongst many others, yesterday, two recommended vids that came up later were also homebrews with various 'oils'. However, one also included brake clean and the other Hoppes9 as cleaning agents. Not certain about Hoppes9, but brake clean certainly doesn't mix well with oil if you wish to retain oil like properties.
Synthetic grease will cause non-synthetic grease to liquefy if used together. This is seen most often in areas that use a lot of grease such as wheel bearings and automotive suspension fittings such as ball joints and king pins. I sincerely doubt that this is an issue in the small quantities that we use in weapons. That being said, It's best to remove old products when changing. CRC Braklean works wonders. I made up some of Chad's oil/grease honey but not being able to get Mobile1 grease readily, I switched to Valvoline synthetic oil and Valvoline synthetic grease. It mixed up nicely and works pretty well in my ARs. I use straight EWG grease and EWL oil in my M1s and bolt guns, with a very different protocol.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle At the very least I would definitely remember to wear gloves using sriracha or would make sure to wash my hands before using the bathroom. I just watched your homemade lube video...lol. Good stuff! Smart.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle I've had to outlaw the use of non-approved containers for chemicals in my shop because I've had guys take drinks of anti-spatter because they confused their Gatorade bottles...more than once.
I'd also like to know. I've never heard of any before. I've switched lube plenty of times and never gave it a thought. Not sure if there's only a few that are incompatible or if i'm lucky
I’ve been told that in cold climates too much oil or grease will gunk up the works. I even saw a video where someone demonstrated that. I’m going to take a shot in the dark and guess that this mixture is good in colder weather?
I run sotaratcha on my canik and other pistols and the rifle I built myself but just keep running the oil I bought for my armalite M153GN18 also quick note sotaratcha works better then any other pocket knive lube on the market by leaps and bounds just don't use on knives you use to process foods with that goes without saying but figured I'd mention it
Is this ratio top secret, or open source? I've been doing grease on metal/metal contact points, oil everywhere else, and I'd like to simplify the process with one lube for everything.
Your advice is good. I hope your not putting Mobile 1 on your firearms. Engine oils are meant for enclosed crankcases. Most modern EO's contain ZDDP and tri or di nuclear moly. When you fire your weapon you create a vapor cloud of lubricant and these products are extremely carcinogenic. Breathing theses micro droplets in is not a good idea because you can get lung cancer from this. Best to stick with Milspec. The Ardec program now has approved many different brands of firearm specific lubricants for Military use. Bio based lubricants above %35 organic material get gummy in cold weather. Although new processing technology with biosynthetic lubricants are seeing lower dropping points. Be well!
Same as militec , great lubricant that adheres to the surface micro pores and treats the metal but is hazardous as hell 😬🤷🏻♂️ plus it’s scientifically designed to be applied to hot/warm metal surface
Yeah no milspec chemicals or lubricants ever caused cancer....apart from the airmen that used jet engine oil for sun bathing and developed cancer. I've worked with dozens of milspec lubricants in my professional capacity and a lot of them are well know carcinogens. Milspec doesn't mean 'safe'!
I have yet to have this issue despite admittedly mixing some lubricants. However now that you mention it it sounds like a good thing to be concerned about and sensible practice especially in a self defense firearm. I would LOVE to hear what lubricants people have found to “clash” or “not play well with others.”
Personally the only issue I have ever had is the Seal1 and Froglube that were organic lubes. They worked great and were very safe and smelled great. (I even heard you could injest them, but dont quote me) The problem was they don't work very good in the extreme cold. Unfortunately I had all my gas guns for over a year well lubed in Froglube. I wanted to try these organic grease/oils and help support military guys is the only reason even I switched to Seal1 and Froglube. We didn't know about the cold weather problems early on. It gets very cold in winter here. So I had to completely disassemble and clean everything with solvent to remove it. If you didn't, it wouldn't mix with the most common petroleum lubes and would gum up the actions. I built and rebuilt automotive engines for decades and the synthetic motor oils are like night and day from the old cheap motor oils, they eliminate engine wear so much better its incredible. I know it for a fact. Our guns don't have near the temps or cycles that the steels in auto engines do, so its a no brainer for me to use them. I went back to the petroleum based lubes and they all seem to play well together from what I have tried. I now use only synthetic petroleum based lubes just like my gas and diesel engines, There are plenty of great gun lubes that are.
@@PatriotPaulUSA Thanks for the info! Much appreciated. I’m using the mix of synthetic oil and grease as recommended by the SOTAR. I use it on everything including my Milsurps. I will confess, my oils could probably be the worst stuff on earth and I’d not know it as my guns don’t get the kinda wear many others do. However they could certainly rust or gum up over time and knock on wood I’ve not had that issue. But at this point I’ve probably “mixed” Rem oil, CLP, Ballistol and the oil/grease mix to some extent without finding any issues. This isn’t intentional and certainly not recommended or I good idea IMHO it’s just happened over time. I do try to clean off the old X before the new “Y” is added but no warranty that I got all the “X” off when doing so.
So I understand what your saying. I am just unclear on what kind of possible issues could be caused by them not being compatible... and how would one test to see if they are compatible?
Pretty sure the main thing you would see would be excessive tackiness. Xi use frog lube on one of my guns and it states if it mixes with oil based lubricants it will essentially gum up and keep the gun from operating.
Slip2000 *appears* to be compatible with Ballistol. I’ve been using a mixture for a few weeks, several weapons, and about 1,000 rounds combined between .22, 9mm and .223 with good results. Do your own research, but it’s working for me. YMMV
Hey Chad, unrelated comment but after watching your content for a while I started inspecting all the parts of my rifles. I have a bcm bcg in my carbine and I had another bcm bcg that is going in another build. When I checked them for magnetism the bolts, firing pins, and cam pins were all very magnetic. Is this just a qc screwup by bcm of is it fairly common? On one bolt I have around 2000 rounds with 0 issues and very minimal wear and the other is brand new.
Ive noticed Slip2000 is working great with my grease mix. I tried to get everything off without doing a full degrease but I missed some. Just makes the grease a little more runny. I plan on cleaning and regreasing a few more times a year than usual to get most of the Slip2k off.
Thanks for the video, I never thought that most gun lubes could be incompatible! Is there a good source to identify compatibilities? What is the best way to fully degrease your firearm?
Curious if you know how slip ewl would do with g96 or g96 bio? Any opinion on overall efficacy as a clp between these 3? Considering switching for some additional corrosion resistance
I actually no clue. Never gave that one second of thought. I have always just used the first thing I grabbed from my pile of lubricants. I have recently started using cleaners and lubricators separately. Hell growing up all we ever used period was WD40. So, well shit. Time to clean my stuff just to be sure and stock up on one kind of cleaner and lubricant.
Oof I think you’re being too precise bro, who measures things? You’re going to be less accurate that way. lol 😂 I like eating poprocks and washing them down with Coca Cola, now I’m mixing froglube with my Cherry Balmz because I want a mint-cherry scented BCG😝. (Just kidding.) Good video. As always thanks for everything you do and all the videos. Keep em coming, plz! I like your series on the old M16 from Puerto Rico. 😎
I just keep it simple. Motor/gear oil for things that need oil. Axle grease for things that need grease. Seems like people only run into problems when their lube costs more than $1 per ounce 😂
A better quality BCG is what you want don't worry about what coating or treatment it has. It does seem the nickel boron and melonite BCGs I have clean a little easier but you still have to lube them and you still want to buy them that are good quality not just any BCG that has NiB.
I clean my guns with Simple Green after corrosively primed ammo, and lube with Ballistol pre-mix. Any SG residue at all causes "curdling" of the Ballistol pre-mix.
GB is an older fellow and as such he came of age, so to speak, in an era when bolt action rifles, wheel guns and 1911s dominated -- all machines with fairly close tolerances, which worked well with the strategy of "a thin film of lube is all you need." I don't think you'll find much from GB on AR-15s or AK-47s, two rifles which tolerate a wet approach much better than a precision bolt-action rifle would. I think this probably explains the different viewpoints.
@@bocan3189 You're welcome. GB is one of my favorite YT video makers and I have a lot of respect for his firearms knowledge, and for his understanding of mechanical principles. He's an internet treasure, just like Chad / SOTAR.
@Axsel Thank you! That's one I haven't watched. However, having said that, I sense GB is a very meticulous guy and I'd expect him to continue his "thin film of lubricant" regimen even with an AR or an AK, simply because that's what he uses and therefore what he knows best. If I were him, it's probably what I'd do. But I'm not him, as much as I admire & respect him! He is very likely more meticulous with his firearms than I am with mine. Even though I'm pretty detailed, I'm nothing like GB or Chad / SOTAR. I do appreciate GB's very basic approach to firearms lubrication. My approach is informed by wrenching on bicycles, cars, motorcycles, and metalwork cutting tools. Which admittedly is different from firearms, even though there are crossover areas of sameness.
And also read the literature that comes with that get on the website. Read the stuff over it because a lot of times they will specifically state what lubricants and oils and things that it's not compatible with. Be aware of those
The places you need it, it doesn't work. The places it works, you don't really need it and it's a f*ing mess. I put muzzle devices on with plenty of anti-sieze and 250 rounds later, you can't tell any was used at all. I use it on motorcycles but have been very disappointed in the stuff on guns.
You want copper anti sieze for everything. Graphite is on the way out. Ive seen the graphite get siezed at work. I forget what its called, on steel and alunimin
question, i have been mixing military lubes (22 years army, never heard of this)for decades, please explain what you are talking about not compatible? have used LSA, CPL, and LAW all at the same time I.E. mixed them all together and used because that was all we had. so please explain.
Rookie question: What makes them compatible? For my AR I often go between MPro7 or Lucas oils....both my go to oils. Also that G96 always reminds me of that smell when ya get a new toy from BCM❤
This. It is primarily a problem mixing bio based lubes and petroleum based lubes. Also certain "cleaning" oils can have additives that don't play well with other things, especially greases. There are many different bases for grease from lithium soaps to silicone or naturally derived hydrogenated fats/waxes. Many ARE cross compatible. Some are very much not. If you have something that currently works with no issues, the lesson here is don't change lubes just for the heck of it. Every company has built "a better mousetrap" but often the product is no better than the other options. Unless you transition to a very cold or very dusty environment stick with what works for you today. Money is better spent on ammo to be frank.
@@mattfleming86 thanks, always a student . Something I will have to pay more attention too. Would you by chance know if the two I listed are "compatible?" they both work equally well for me.
What are some of the signs of incompatibility? I've used different lubricants in a pinch without properly degreasing the firearm. Wanting to see if it is something I should be concerned with. It's never had any issues cycling as of yet, but I don't get out to shoot as much as I'd like anymore.
@@dbmail545 thank you very much, I haven't noticed any with what I've been using so far (Ballistol, and some random different random synthetic stuff). Must have just been dumb luck.
I think you have mistaken the action of vinegar and baking soda. I have never seen H202 react with baking soda and have brushed my teeth with both for decades.
I've been using Balistol to clean my equipment. I scrub & scrub, then wipe every trace off. Parts are bone dry when I'm done. I then lube with a graphite based gun oil. Am I being a total joe when I do this?
Yes, you are. Use the Ballistol pre-mix (10 parts water to one part Ballistol) Put the gun together dripping wet and forget about that graphite garbage.
Numerous things can happen but most likely they will separate, sludge up, or become completely useless and will damage your AR. It will not be instantly obvious, especially if you are using a drill to mix the lubricants. Dont mix lubricants if you dont know what you are doing.
Brake cleaner? Acetone? And a nylon brush. Wipe off crud, take a separate rag, spray with solvent, wipe down to insure cleanliness. Let it flash off and use your lube of choice.
Is it possible to do a short follow-up video on known oils that are not compatible? Would save a lot of trial and error time.
Thank you.
I will second this, but the big one I've heard of is bio versus petroleum versus synthetic. Apparently bio (like ballistol and g96) does NOT like petroleum products.
@@ScottKenny1978 you're correct. Clp and ballistol definitely react and leave a congealed slurry behind. I've used them both during refurbishment on an old revolver and while it worked great to lift the rust this would definitely cause problems in the action.
I’m also extremely interested. Wouldn’t mind you going over what sorts of things you prefer to degrease with. There’s a lot of things out there that will degrease the gun but I’m not sure what’s good to use and what’s too aggressive to use.
yeah, but how does the Siracha hold up under high heat? 😀 But seriously, that's good advice.
Sotar-racha
It creates its own heat...!
I saw the bottle and was like "Is that Sriacha?"
Just made a batch of your "Sriracha" to see how it works. Made it a tad on the thicker side (looks exactly like ketchup) because it's pretty hot and humid where I am.
Binge watching your channel since I found it today. More good info here than several other channels combined. KUTGW!
I just made some too I live in az mines is thick heehee and it holding up 🇺🇸
as a career LEO/Armorer/Long time shooter, it is important if you are working/maintaining firearms for extended periods - ie: daily for years - that you select Lubes/Cleaners that not only work BUT are also health friendly. As mentioned by @MCUT some lubes are down right nasty for you. Either through absorption, ingestion or inhalation (either by Fumes or burn off during firing). Consider always wear PPE (rubber/nitrile gloves/APR if using compressed air) to minimize forms of entry where applicable - and if you are too stubborn to wear gloves, wash your hands before you touch your eyes or eat.
Agreed. Been wearing nitrile gloves for “dirty work” for years. Once you’re accustomed to them, you feel “naked” without them. Also a boon you don’t have to wash your hands as much aka stops them from drying out and cracking. Something anyone in the trades had experienced from using “Lava” or “orange” soaps.
No one switches from G96 once they smell it 😄
True story
All the guns and uppers you get from BCM have that smell too. Love that smell.
banana?
With the gun lubricants, there are a lot that don't work together. Almost every bio lube is not compatible with synthetic lubes.
Plant-based oils & greases have long been known for their adverse reactions to heat, humidity and long-term oxygen exposure. Getting gummy/sticky, or hardening, are two historical experiences I've known. And that's not even getting to the issue of cross-compatibility with petrolubes.
Sadly, the people who market/sell such bio-lubes never tell much about these weaknesses and instead focus on "being green" or "environment-friendly, NO PETROLEUM!" angles. Always good to be skeptical about "marketing" people and their desire to sell at any cost. After all, they gamble on the very likely fact that hardly anyone's going to sue them for failing to disclose the lube/oil weaknesses that weren't disclosed.
Simple Green cleaner must be rinsed off THOROUGHLY before Ballistol pre-mix is used.
I’ve been using your home brew for quite a while. Repsol products and a few drops of peppermint oil. Great info. Thanks again!
I went with honey consistency for my mobil1 mix that you showed. It’s worked well in IL weather because it can be anything anytime of year here.
Video is about a month late for me. I was using basic CLP and saw a video about a certain grease. I lubed 12 AR’s with the grease. I went back last week and couldn’t even turn the safeties on them. I’m still in the process of cleaning and relubing.
I got some Cherrybalmz to use on my ars and my 22s. I decided to use their black rifle stuff instead of light oil on a couple of shotguns (Remington 870 pump and Mossberg 930 auto loader). Took my boys skeet shooting and about 2/3 of the way through our box of clays, both guns were locked up so tight I couldn't move the bolts/pump/charging handle. So I feel your pain (not 12 ars worth of pain, but pain nonetheless lol)
Huh. A buddy of mine had an AR lock up super super bad. Couldn’t get the BCG to move. Wonder if something like this happened
@@CorpusCrispy If it wasn't obviously mechanical, then most likely. Grease, once it heats up, runs like oil. That oil picks up carbon and whatnot and suspends it. As soon as the oil cools it turns back into grease, but now it's loaded with carbon.
Its ok I mixed Ballistol and grease on 1 AR. Used gun scrubber and sprayed the BCG and gun.
Hey Chad, do you believe in lapping or trueing the face of the receiver for barrel installation on most guns? Or do you believe it’s pointless as some do? Thanks!
Is it possible to pinpoint certain ingredients that don’t go together? Or if that’s too complicated then even just list some of the more common brands that work or don’t work together? Like let’s say Slip works ok with Shooter’s Choice but definitely not Ballistol, etc. That would be so helpful as I’ve always wondered about this. Thanks for your video as always
I had an fj40. My mechanic used a different grease than I did on the steering centering joint. They reacted so badly the greases foamed up and blew out the seal.
I been using CLP since that is what I learned on in Marine Bootcamp back in 88. Thank you sir for the good information just encase I ever decide to switch 😉👍
I am a die hard AR guy, but I gotta feel the AK guys laughing their asses off with their oily rag and WD40.
I ran a 5.45x39 AR with nothing but 7n6 ammo for years. I always cleaned the gun with water, and eventually with no lubricant at all except on the gas rings and cam pin. Gun ran fine, as long as it was clean. My AK's run dry AND dirty.
And white lithium grease
Great advice...keep this in mind when you spit in your hand 😅😂😂😅
Best thing that I learned from watching this video:
Sriracha makes a key fob so you can always have their hot sauce wherever you go. I never knew it was a thing! I just bought 10 of the small ones so I can give to friends that can't live without Sriracha.
(I already knew about lubricant compatibility/incompatibility issues)
=O)
It would be nice if you could give an example of two lubes that aren't compatible and the outcome of such a combination.
Yeah I was hoping for the 'why' as well as the what
Spray ballistol into a container and then clp... You'll immediately see bubbling as they react. I don't know what it would do used in a firearm because i found out when refurbishing an old revolver. It worked great to lift the rust but it also left some congealed globs of something in the bowl which i would almost guarantee would gunk up the action and possibly cause FTE or FTF issues.
@@jkalash762 fwiw, I use ballistol to clean and have been using clp to lube because i have a lot and wasn't aware its a bad idea. I have never noticed a reaction or any type of corrosion on my firearms due to this, nor has the clp congealed over time.
@@williestroker8627 the only thing it's done for me is the congealing. This was when using very large amounts together. I was soaking an entire 12ga Iver Johnson Champion receiver to loosen the rust from the color case hardening. Was low on ballistol so after the first pass with a nylon brush i added clp on top. Would it be a harmful mix? No just would possibly cause some gunk to build up at worst. My assumption is it was the mineral oil in ballistol although putting pure mineral oil in a bowl and clp does nothing really except bubble a little and make a very thick viscosity oil. What clp do you use? Some are bio based but i was just referencing the break free brand as its most common to see.
@@jkalash762 it is the Break Free clp. I do wipe all the ballistol off the best I can, but I never degrease it. Never had an issue so far but you can bet I will be taking extra care these days! I will be switching to just ballistol after I run out of clp now as well!
Yep. I’ve had a couple closely fitted Colt revolvers (Diamondback and Python) gum up to the point of being non-functional.
I prefer Frank's Red Hot to Sriracha lube. But seriously, I watched the homebrew vid, amongst many others, yesterday, two recommended vids that came up later were also homebrews with various 'oils'. However, one also included brake clean and the other Hoppes9 as cleaning agents. Not certain about Hoppes9, but brake clean certainly doesn't mix well with oil if you wish to retain oil like properties.
Oh man I gotta stop mixing ky jelly and vaseline, and Ill be careful on my gun stuff too!
Synthetic grease will cause non-synthetic grease to liquefy if used together. This is seen most often in areas that use a lot of grease such as wheel bearings and automotive suspension fittings such as ball joints and king pins. I sincerely doubt that this is an issue in the small quantities that we use in weapons. That being said, It's best to remove old products when changing. CRC Braklean works wonders. I made up some of Chad's oil/grease honey but not being able to get Mobile1 grease readily, I switched to Valvoline synthetic oil and Valvoline synthetic grease. It mixed up nicely and works pretty well in my ARs. I use straight EWG grease and EWL oil in my M1s and bolt guns, with a very different protocol.
As already my grandfather, I am using Ballistol for everything gun related and never had any problems. Greetings from Austria.
What do you use for decreasing.
I've mixed the g96 bio clp with cherry balmz black rifle grease, and they seem to work well together
Nice. I gotta stop using Sriracha I suppose.
That's not what I said.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle Roger that
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle At the very least I would definitely remember to wear gloves using sriracha or would make sure to wash my hands before using the bathroom. I just watched your homemade lube video...lol. Good stuff! Smart.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle I've had to outlaw the use of non-approved containers for chemicals in my shop because I've had guys take drinks of anti-spatter because they confused their Gatorade bottles...more than once.
Any specific known incompatibilities?
I'd also like to know. I've never heard of any before. I've switched lube plenty of times and never gave it a thought. Not sure if there's only a few that are incompatible or if i'm lucky
Simple Green cleaner and Ballistol pre-mix. ANY residue from the SG causes the pre-mix to curdle.
Harvest king bar and chain oil!
I’ve been told that in cold climates too much oil or grease will gunk up the works. I even saw a video where someone demonstrated that. I’m going to take a shot in the dark and guess that this mixture is good in colder weather?
Always educational
I never thought of this. Thank you.
Would be interested to see negative results from incompatible mixes.
I run sotaratcha on my canik and other pistols and the rifle I built myself but just keep running the oil I bought for my armalite M153GN18 also quick note sotaratcha works better then any other pocket knive lube on the market by leaps and bounds just don't use on knives you use to process foods with that goes without saying but figured I'd mention it
More excellent, precise firearm intel. Thank you Chad, you rock sir.
I made the lube per your grease to motoroil ratio. Worked fantastic in all my ar15
Is this ratio top secret, or open source? I've been doing grease on metal/metal contact points, oil everywhere else, and I'd like to simplify the process with one lube for everything.
@@pxjydz303
Here's a video Chad made about it...
ua-cam.com/video/DTpWfjVFfEU/v-deo.html
@@onna-day7047 awesome, thank you!
Oops. Now I’m wondering if this Go Juice will not play nice with the old slip2000 I had on my rifle… thoughts?
Gotta mix me up so SOTAR sauce and start using that!!! No where to find those Sriracha bottles?
Just use old Frank's hot sauce bottles. Put that sh#& on everything!
Acetone, is great for stripping a barrel of previous lube.
Another great tip.
Your advice is good. I hope your not putting Mobile 1 on your firearms. Engine oils are meant for enclosed crankcases. Most modern EO's contain ZDDP and tri or di nuclear moly. When you fire your weapon you create a vapor cloud of lubricant and these products are extremely carcinogenic. Breathing theses micro droplets in is not a good idea because you can get lung cancer from this. Best to stick with Milspec. The Ardec program now has approved many different brands of firearm specific lubricants for Military use. Bio based lubricants above %35 organic material get gummy in cold weather. Although new processing technology with biosynthetic lubricants are seeing lower dropping points. Be well!
Same as militec , great lubricant that adheres to the surface micro pores and treats the metal but is hazardous as hell 😬🤷🏻♂️ plus it’s scientifically designed to be applied to hot/warm metal surface
Awesome sir
Yeah no milspec chemicals or lubricants ever caused cancer....apart from the airmen that used jet engine oil for sun bathing and developed cancer.
I've worked with dozens of milspec lubricants in my professional capacity and a lot of them are well know carcinogens.
Milspec doesn't mean 'safe'!
Can you point to any research showing molybdenum or zddp additives are carcinogenic? I haven't seen any
@@charlesfisher3983 I'm curious about that also
I have yet to have this issue despite admittedly mixing some lubricants. However now that you mention it it sounds like a good thing to be concerned about and sensible practice especially in a self defense firearm. I would LOVE to hear what lubricants people have found to “clash” or “not play well with others.”
Personally the only issue I have ever had is the Seal1 and Froglube that were organic lubes. They worked great and were very safe and smelled great. (I even heard you could injest them, but dont quote me) The problem was they don't work very good in the extreme cold. Unfortunately I had all my gas guns for over a year well lubed in Froglube. I wanted to try these organic grease/oils and help support military guys is the only reason even I switched to Seal1 and Froglube. We didn't know about the cold weather problems early on. It gets very cold in winter here. So I had to completely disassemble and clean everything with solvent to remove it. If you didn't, it wouldn't mix with the most common petroleum lubes and would gum up the actions. I built and rebuilt automotive engines for decades and the synthetic motor oils are like night and day from the old cheap motor oils, they eliminate engine wear so much better its incredible. I know it for a fact. Our guns don't have near the temps or cycles that the steels in auto engines do, so its a no brainer for me to use them. I went back to the petroleum based lubes and they all seem to play well together from what I have tried. I now use only synthetic petroleum based lubes just like my gas and diesel engines, There are plenty of great gun lubes that are.
@@PatriotPaulUSA Thanks for the info! Much appreciated. I’m using the mix of synthetic oil and grease as recommended by the SOTAR. I use it on everything including my Milsurps.
I will confess, my oils could probably be the worst stuff on earth and I’d not know it as my guns don’t get the kinda wear many others do. However they could certainly rust or gum up over time and knock on wood I’ve not had that issue.
But at this point I’ve probably “mixed” Rem oil, CLP, Ballistol and the oil/grease mix to some extent without finding any issues. This isn’t intentional and certainly not recommended or I good idea IMHO it’s just happened over time. I do try to clean off the old X before the new “Y” is added but no warranty that I got all the “X” off when doing so.
So I understand what your saying. I am just unclear on what kind of possible issues could be caused by them not being compatible... and how would one test to see if they are compatible?
Toluene spray is a good lube stripper solvent. It’s available in many off the shelf products commercially available gun cleaners. It dries dry.
put together a pdf with YOUR known compatible and non compatible produces.. I would buy that for sure.
I use Sriracha ONLY as my primary lube for all my firearms!
In Iraq, I got a case of SLIP 2000. Worked great.
What exactly is an indication and/or consequence of incompatible lubricants?
Pretty sure the main thing you would see would be excessive tackiness. Xi use frog lube on one of my guns and it states if it mixes with oil based lubricants it will essentially gum up and keep the gun from operating.
Can you sort your videos into playlists, please?
Slip2000 *appears* to be compatible with Ballistol. I’ve been using a mixture for a few weeks, several weapons, and about 1,000 rounds combined between .22, 9mm and .223 with good results.
Do your own research, but it’s working for me. YMMV
I should specify, a mixture of Slip2000 EWG and straight Ballistol.
I am going to test a small amount of blaster heavy duty green grease with car oil and see how that fairs in a container
What about Frank's Redhot?
Slip2000
Hey Chad, unrelated comment but after watching your content for a while I started inspecting all the parts of my rifles. I have a bcm bcg in my carbine and I had another bcm bcg that is going in another build. When I checked them for magnetism the bolts, firing pins, and cam pins were all very magnetic. Is this just a qc screwup by bcm of is it fairly common? On one bolt I have around 2000 rounds with 0 issues and very minimal wear and the other is brand new.
@Patrick Henry thanks brutha :D
👀 whoops Hopefully slp 2000 and g96 are compatible lol.
Ive noticed Slip2000 is working great with my grease mix. I tried to get everything off without doing a full degrease but I missed some. Just makes the grease a little more runny. I plan on cleaning and regreasing a few more times a year than usual to get most of the Slip2k off.
Thanks for the video, I never thought that most gun lubes could be incompatible! Is there a good source to identify compatibilities? What is the best way to fully degrease your firearm?
Brake clean
I used denatured alcohol, seemed to work ok. Brake clean may be a better choice though.
Ballistiol and hot water. Brake clean can eat finishes off certain firearms. Ymmv, I just prefer to be gentle.
Mark, low order paint thinner does just fine
@@TransitionSF Yeah, I like denatured alcohol, I use it in the bore sometimes. Dries fast, leaves no residue, never has damaged finishes on my gats.
Mayonnaise is SPICY! 🔥
Curious if you know how slip ewl would do with g96 or g96 bio? Any opinion on overall efficacy as a clp between these 3? Considering switching for some additional corrosion resistance
DEGREASE WITH WHAT?
Ive used Ballistol, and then CLP on the same AR. Hope i didnt screw up my Windham Weaponry and her BCG. Time spray her down with the ole gun Scrubber.
You don't mix lubricants in your vehicle. Why would it suddenly be ok in your firearms?
What's the best degreaser?
I actually no clue. Never gave that one second of thought. I have always just used the first thing I grabbed from my pile of lubricants. I have recently started using cleaners and lubricators separately. Hell growing up all we ever used period was WD40. So, well shit. Time to clean my stuff just to be sure and stock up on one kind of cleaner and lubricant.
Thank you
Oof I think you’re being too precise bro, who measures things? You’re going to be less accurate that way. lol 😂 I like eating poprocks and washing them down with Coca Cola, now I’m mixing froglube with my Cherry Balmz because I want a mint-cherry scented BCG😝. (Just kidding.)
Good video.
As always thanks for everything you do and all the videos. Keep em coming, plz! I like your series on the old M16 from Puerto Rico. 😎
I just keep it simple. Motor/gear oil for things that need oil. Axle grease for things that need grease. Seems like people only run into problems when their lube costs more than $1 per ounce 😂
CLP is life.
Green Chiles with group 5 0w30 makes a winning and delicious combination treat and lubricant!
Are Nickel Boron BCG's, Bolt's, etc REALLY that much better? And worth the price?
A better quality BCG is what you want don't worry about what coating or treatment it has. It does seem the nickel boron and melonite BCGs I have clean a little easier but you still have to lube them and you still want to buy them that are good quality not just any BCG that has NiB.
Forgive me, >_< but when I clicked the link and say the Siracha Sause bottle in the lube pile I couldn't stop laughing. ^~^
I clean my guns with Simple Green after corrosively primed ammo, and lube with Ballistol pre-mix. Any SG residue at all causes "curdling" of the Ballistol pre-mix.
Gun Blue 470 has a good insights into gun cleaning. He's not quite aligned with Chad's clean/lube mindset however, evaluate and do what works for you.
GB is an older fellow and as such he came of age, so to speak, in an era when bolt action rifles, wheel guns and 1911s dominated -- all machines with fairly close tolerances, which worked well with the strategy of "a thin film of lube is all you need." I don't think you'll find much from GB on AR-15s or AK-47s, two rifles which tolerate a wet approach much better than a precision bolt-action rifle would. I think this probably explains the different viewpoints.
@@seanoneil277 Hi Sean, Thank you for your views, I hadn't considered that point, it makes sense. Carry on Sir!
@@bocan3189 You're welcome. GB is one of my favorite YT video makers and I have a lot of respect for his firearms knowledge, and for his understanding of mechanical principles. He's an internet treasure, just like Chad / SOTAR.
@Axsel Thank you! That's one I haven't watched. However, having said that, I sense GB is a very meticulous guy and I'd expect him to continue his "thin film of lubricant" regimen even with an AR or an AK, simply because that's what he uses and therefore what he knows best. If I were him, it's probably what I'd do. But I'm not him, as much as I admire & respect him! He is very likely more meticulous with his firearms than I am with mine. Even though I'm pretty detailed, I'm nothing like GB or Chad / SOTAR.
I do appreciate GB's very basic approach to firearms lubrication. My approach is informed by wrenching on bicycles, cars, motorcycles, and metalwork cutting tools. Which admittedly is different from firearms, even though there are crossover areas of sameness.
I've never encountered a problem and I've used several different lubes over the years. Maybe I was just lucky.
And also read the literature that comes with that get on the website. Read the stuff over it because a lot of times they will specifically state what lubricants and oils and things that it's not compatible with. Be aware of those
What do you think of Weapons Shield CLP? That’s what Ive been using for awhile and it seems to work fairly well.
Do you have any recommendations for anti-sieze?
The places you need it, it doesn't work. The places it works, you don't really need it and it's a f*ing mess. I put muzzle devices on with plenty of anti-sieze and 250 rounds later, you can't tell any was used at all. I use it on motorcycles but have been very disappointed in the stuff on guns.
You want copper anti sieze for everything. Graphite is on the way out. Ive seen the graphite get siezed at work. I forget what its called, on steel and alunimin
What is the most effective degreaser that'll strip all the lube off?
i read this is an issue with graphene
question, i have been mixing military lubes (22 years army, never heard of this)for decades, please explain what you are talking about not compatible? have used LSA, CPL, and LAW all at the same time I.E. mixed them all together and used because that was all we had. so please explain.
What does one do for a new carbine still lubed from the manufacturer when they clean and lube it for the first time?
Rookie question: What makes them compatible? For my AR I often go between MPro7 or Lucas oils....both my go to oils. Also that G96 always reminds me of that smell when ya get a new toy from BCM❤
Mixing some of these will harden and lock up your stuff like its glued in place, its no joke
This. It is primarily a problem mixing bio based lubes and petroleum based lubes. Also certain "cleaning" oils can have additives that don't play well with other things, especially greases. There are many different bases for grease from lithium soaps to silicone or naturally derived hydrogenated fats/waxes. Many ARE cross compatible. Some are very much not. If you have something that currently works with no issues, the lesson here is don't change lubes just for the heck of it. Every company has built "a better mousetrap" but often the product is no better than the other options. Unless you transition to a very cold or very dusty environment stick with what works for you today. Money is better spent on ammo to be frank.
@@mattfleming86 thanks, always a student . Something I will have to pay more attention too. Would you by chance know if the two I listed are "compatible?" they both work equally well for me.
@@pmorin313 Have you watched the video from School of the American Rifle on his home made lube? If not, check it out. Cheap and effective.
What are some of the signs of incompatibility? I've used different lubricants in a pinch without properly degreasing the firearm. Wanting to see if it is something I should be concerned with. It's never had any issues cycling as of yet, but I don't get out to shoot as much as I'd like anymore.
Look for "curdling" of incompatible lubricants. Immediate gumming. Put both in a shot glass to check for compatibility.
@@dbmail545 thank you very much, I haven't noticed any with what I've been using so far (Ballistol, and some random different random synthetic stuff). Must have just been dumb luck.
Shop solv is my favorite degreaser.
Hummmm you didn't tell us what it actually does to the firearm....
Subscribed, and loving this channel. What are your thoughts on Ballistol as a CLP?
I was using baking soda lubricant and decided to switch to straight peroxide. Damn gun started erupting🤣🤣
I think you have mistaken the action of vinegar and baking soda. I have never seen H202 react with baking soda and have brushed my teeth with both for decades.
Wat kind of test can u do to ensure different lubricants r compatible?
I've been using Balistol to clean my equipment. I scrub & scrub, then wipe every trace off. Parts are bone dry when I'm done. I then lube with a graphite based gun oil. Am I being a total joe when I do this?
Yes, you are. Use the Ballistol pre-mix (10 parts water to one part Ballistol) Put the gun together dripping wet and forget about that graphite garbage.
Is that spray-on dry lubricant worth a damn?
Only in magazines, on the spring
I'm aware of this, but its a good watch/refresher anyway
Where do I find the video of the grease and motor oil mix?
What can happen if incompatible lubricants are used?
Numerous things can happen but most likely they will separate, sludge up, or become completely useless and will damage your AR. It will not be instantly obvious, especially if you are using a drill to mix the lubricants. Dont mix lubricants if you dont know what you are doing.
This is similar to mixing multiple drain cleaners. That’s a big no no!!
Hard to know what they put on a new gun at the factory...
Never use silicone lube on your silicone...
Just run the G96 on everything.....! 🤠
Mk19 + LSA + CLP=😵💫😵💫😵💫
Lucas gun lube is #1 in my book
Anyone know of a good, economical degreaser? Spray 9, Mean Green?
Brake cleaner? Acetone? And a nylon brush. Wipe off crud, take a separate rag, spray with solvent, wipe down to insure cleanliness. Let it flash off and use your lube of choice.
Helpful info, thanks
How does rem oil and clp mix?
I was thinking about using the mobil 1 full synthetic with Lucas red n tacky. Anyone ever use that mix?