Great series. Same problem with a 2005 5.7Gi/DP-SM, 300 hours. I was all set to build a dolly, purchase tools and parts, and do the repair myself. Then I found a very knowledgeable repair shop that will replace the cone clutch and deglaze/lap the mating gear cones for around $800 total. That changed my plans. Hopefully the results will be good. Thanks for the videos.
That's a great shop to have. I called around everywhere near me looking for the same..but noone wanted anything to do with volvo stuff. If I had found someone to do it for 800 I would have paid them too. Good luck!
You're a lifesaver muc. Thanks for all the references. I bought an 03 chap yesterday and I think it has a bad clutch, there's no D or R, cable moves the plate, engine works normally. I have a lot to learn about this whole thing but I'm glad people like you have decided to share their knowledge.
Well done videos on this repair, this will save a lot of time for me. I have a Volvo 290A DP leg doing the same thing, slipping from time to time, so we will have to remove the leg and lap the new clutch. Thanks
Thanks for the great video. Very helpful. I have a similar situation and had to replace the cone clutch as well. One issue I have now is the center shaft that the two gears and the cone clutch sits in comes up when I rotate the prop. Any ideas of what could have happened? Its the the shaft with the reverese thread nut on the in the very center in the upper housing. That shouldn't come up like that not sure whats going on. Any thoughts would be great. Thanks.
Thank you for taking the time to document your repair. Great information. I really appreciate you sharing details about the roadblocks you encountered, and not just glossing them over or not mentioning them. I'm about to take the leap to do this job on my 2004 DP-SM. Any chance you want to sell that hook spanner and your weld jobs ;-)
Thank u so much for the video! Haven't had my boat out for a year just got it out seem a little slow at the top end. Im assuming its all the fuel onboard but at least i know its not a clucth
i have a 2000 Four Winns with the Volvo Penta SX and I am experiencing the same exact issue. I initially changed the shift cable hoping that was the case, it appeared to fix it for a trip out or two but then it came right back. I assume i am headed down the same road, so where did you buy your gaskets, tool and clutch?
Volvo Penta Hook Spanner 3850604 www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQBDF87/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_2qAoDbCXA6KK9 That's the tool. I will dig up where I bought the parts later today
So the clutch i got from www.marinepartssource.com, $261 The gasket sets for the upper and lower and the new transom nuts i got from westmarine.com I used www.marinepartseurope.com as a good reference for part numbers needed for my drive, it has all the exploded views
@@nobama5555 awesome thank you. I am replacing the bearing carrier o-ring, prop shaft seal, shift mechanism seal, oil drain/fill bolt o-rings, and putting in new oil hoping that it was just ruined gear oil. Did you find any water in your oil?
@@AnthonyDelrocco i did not find any evidence of water in my oil, but it was fresh oil from previous owner winterizing so i cant be sure. I should have performed a leak test after i put it all back together per the manual, but i plan on draining the oil after this summer to winterize so i will check it for water then. The previous owner did have the wrong oil in there though, it was blue which means it was probably generic mercruiser oil. I am told the Volvos can be VERY fussy about using the volvo oil only, due to friction modifiers and such. If you have been using the wrong oil it could send the clutch into failure. The problem is once the clutch starts slipping, i am not sure it can be recovered without getting the surfaces unglazed first. Worth a shot though!
@@nobama5555 I have a post going on a forum right now, so you can see what my oil looked like when it came out. It was milky and had an extremely strong burn smell, so I am hoping that its oil degradation that was causing the shift issue, but I know its a fair chance I have the same problem. The fact that it was shifting fine into reverse does imply that it is likely that the clutch needs to be replaced. how long did it take you to complete the work? forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/volvo-penta-i-o-inboard-gas-engines-outdrives/10774615-4-3-gl-not-shifting-into-forward
I actually got my info from 2 different books. I downloaded the volvo workshop manual, VPA 7743008. That was the best one. I also bought the seloc manual sel-3608 which wasnt quite as helpful.
Great series. Same problem with a 2005 5.7Gi/DP-SM, 300 hours. I was all set to build a dolly, purchase tools and parts, and do the repair myself. Then I found a very knowledgeable repair shop that will replace the cone clutch and deglaze/lap the mating gear cones for around $800 total. That changed my plans. Hopefully the results will be good. Thanks for the videos.
That's a great shop to have. I called around everywhere near me looking for the same..but noone wanted anything to do with volvo stuff. If I had found someone to do it for 800 I would have paid them too. Good luck!
You're a lifesaver muc. Thanks for all the references. I bought an 03 chap yesterday and I think it has a bad clutch, there's no D or R, cable moves the plate, engine works normally. I have a lot to learn about this whole thing but I'm glad people like you have decided to share their knowledge.
Well done videos on this repair, this will save a lot of time for me. I have a Volvo 290A DP leg doing the same thing, slipping from time to time, so we will have to remove the leg and lap the new clutch. Thanks
Thanks for the great video. Very helpful. I have a similar situation and had to replace the cone clutch as well. One issue I have now is the center shaft that the two gears and the cone clutch sits in comes up when I rotate the prop. Any ideas of what could have happened? Its the the shaft with the reverese thread nut on the in the very center in the upper housing. That shouldn't come up like that not sure whats going on. Any thoughts would be great. Thanks.
Thank you for taking the time to document your repair. Great information. I really appreciate you sharing details about the roadblocks you encountered, and not just glossing them over or not mentioning them. I'm about to take the leap to do this job on my 2004 DP-SM. Any chance you want to sell that hook spanner and your weld jobs ;-)
Thank u so much for the video! Haven't had my boat out for a year just got it out seem a little slow at the top end. Im assuming its all the fuel onboard but at least i know its not a clucth
i have a 2000 Four Winns with the Volvo Penta SX and I am experiencing the same exact issue. I initially changed the shift cable hoping that was the case, it appeared to fix it for a trip out or two but then it came right back. I assume i am headed down the same road, so where did you buy your gaskets, tool and clutch?
Volvo Penta Hook Spanner 3850604 www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQBDF87/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_2qAoDbCXA6KK9
That's the tool. I will dig up where I bought the parts later today
So the clutch i got from www.marinepartssource.com, $261
The gasket sets for the upper and lower and the new transom nuts i got from westmarine.com
I used www.marinepartseurope.com as a good reference for part numbers needed for my drive, it has all the exploded views
@@nobama5555 awesome thank you. I am replacing the bearing carrier o-ring, prop shaft seal, shift mechanism seal, oil drain/fill bolt o-rings, and putting in new oil hoping that it was just ruined gear oil. Did you find any water in your oil?
@@AnthonyDelrocco i did not find any evidence of water in my oil, but it was fresh oil from previous owner winterizing so i cant be sure. I should have performed a leak test after i put it all back together per the manual, but i plan on draining the oil after this summer to winterize so i will check it for water then. The previous owner did have the wrong oil in there though, it was blue which means it was probably generic mercruiser oil. I am told the Volvos can be VERY fussy about using the volvo oil only, due to friction modifiers and such. If you have been using the wrong oil it could send the clutch into failure. The problem is once the clutch starts slipping, i am not sure it can be recovered without getting the surfaces unglazed first. Worth a shot though!
@@nobama5555 I have a post going on a forum right now, so you can see what my oil looked like when it came out. It was milky and had an extremely strong burn smell, so I am hoping that its oil degradation that was causing the shift issue, but I know its a fair chance I have the same problem. The fact that it was shifting fine into reverse does imply that it is likely that the clutch needs to be replaced. how long did it take you to complete the work?
forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/volvo-penta-i-o-inboard-gas-engines-outdrives/10774615-4-3-gl-not-shifting-into-forward
Damn. Thats a lot of work. Classic cone glazing by using the incorrect gear oil.
Hi can I ask which reference book you were using?
I actually got my info from 2 different books. I downloaded the volvo workshop manual, VPA 7743008. That was the best one. I also bought the seloc manual sel-3608 which wasnt quite as helpful.