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In these videos I end up completely freeing up the engine, lowering it towards the ground and sliding it over towards the drivers side, which gives you plenty of room. Now I'm not sure if I needed to remove the subframe from the engine but I did it anyways, because you have to lower the engine quite a bit before the transmission will clear the frame on drivers side and slide into the wheel well. Probably not what you wanted to hear but I just couldn't see a way to do that cover without doing this, due to that shock tower.

it took an insane amount of struggle and i really don't know how it got on but i managed to get the cover in place during a dry run with all the conditions i listed before. i truly don't know what i did differently after 40 minutes of struggle but it at least in place now, no rtv yet. rejoice. your video series on this has been an insane amount of help, you are a blessing to getting my car back up and running

Yes water pump failure in this car is very likely to dump lots of coolant in your oil if not caught early. If you run it with coolant in the oil for too long there's no telling how much that damaged your bearings and putting the money into the water pump replacement is a gamble I think. In my case I caught it early and I did the work myself for about 700 so I deemed it worth it....but if my oil had looked like a milkshake I probably would have junked it. I have put 40k on this car since this repair with no major problems so I think in my case it worked out.

For me, it was random. It seemed to have a steady quiet clacking but could get much louder randomly when idling or driving. There was only one time where I had just started it where I heard a loud random screeching sound when cold....it never happened again. One way I heard of pin pointing the issue was having your oil analyzed for coolant in it...because for me visually I could not see coolant in the oil...but I could see I had lost a little coolant level. I was lucky enough to get the check engine code for timing too that convinced me it was the pump.

I bought all the pump..chains.. pulley/phaser bolts and tensioners individually from the dealer. I was unable to find a quality kit for this car.. the only kits out there were not good name brand. Theres plenty of quality duratec kits but none state they were for this exact car. I even called the guys at cloyes I think. Unfortunately it's pricey at the dealer..I think I had about 500 in parts. Most dealer websites have the parts diagram you can pull up...although it's unclear on the cam tensioners that there is a left and right tensioner (I bought two of the same side by mistake). I believe I used www.mazdastuff.com.

@@nobama5555 I appreciate the reply that is probably the best route to go i haven’t had much luck finding a kit either. I would like to try to order it all at once but I’m not sure of all the little things I need. I do need both chains correct? And basically I’ll just have to go from there figure it out as I go but there is a lot of tedious items I’m unsure how to even find/order.

@@bodyngraham2906 check out Cloyes. I think they have a kit for your car. They did not for a 2012 but I think you said you have a 2009... which they do have a kit for if your VIN code is B I believe. The 2012 used a different timing chain style and they didn't have a kit with that in it..but your chain should be the old roller style.

@@nobama5555 hello, sorry I am not the best at viewing my UA-cam notifications but I wish I would’ve seen you had replied with that. Anyways glad I seen it now and correct I have the 2009 3.7L s grand touring and I was wondering if you knew of the best possible kit for the 2009 that I could trust to order from?

@@nobama5555 I’ll definitely have to check out cloyes and see if they have some reviews etc. thank you that helps alot it would save some time and money being able to get a kit instead of individual parts but either way quality materials is more important than the time or money at end of day but if cloyes is solid I’d go with that.

That's a great shop to have. I called around everywhere near me looking for the same..but noone wanted anything to do with volvo stuff. If I had found someone to do it for 800 I would have paid them too. Good luck!

according to Haynes manual you have to remove the air duct and then pull out the cooling fan shroud assembly, then undo the AC compressor from the engine but not the refrigerant lines and shift it to the side. Getting that shroud of of the way should give you enough room between the engine and the radiator.

@@nobama5555 Where did you get your manual from? I have been trying to locate a manual for my 2012 mazda 3 2.5l with no success for my exact model and year.

no they didn't ever line back up. Its just dumb luck that they did once for me. The important thing is to make them line up when you put the new chain in. If you lose them afterwards cause you spun it over a few times, you can at least count how many links they are off the mark when the double colored one is back near the crank mark....i.e if its off 2 down there, it should be off 2 on both cams as well.

I think it's probably best to drain from the bottom to get any metal shavings or clutch sediment to leave the bottom of the pan.

@@nobama5555 Yes makes sense. I have the same vehicle. Thanks for the reply. I don’t have the ability to lift my vehicle - long story. I’m considering just freshening up the fluid by pulling what I can from the top and adding back the same - maybe a little at a time, over time. I don’t want to damage anything. Just wondering if what you observed in that fill hole could get damaged in the process.

Yea I was lucky....my dealer decided to give me a whole new frame instead of that bolt on bandaid.

Yep these seem to be a ticking time bomb. I think the best way to catch it before it's too late is keep an eye on the coolant level....but as you can see even catching it before catastrophic failure is no bargain.

@Salt Maker Wow, that's scary, thanks for the heads up. Love my 6, beautiful car, but I don't want to go through all that. My dad is getting ready to trade on his Buick LaCrosse for a leased SUV he can load a scooter into. His Buick a 06, only 85K miles, no issues. I might swap cars with him, so he trades in the 6 instead. I don't know if he has to own it, or if I can just sign over my title to the dealer to save the hassle of us trading titles. In my state if family, no sales tax. Think I'm going to go this route for now to buy me more no car payment time :)

It was counterclockwise.

@@nobama5555 By lapping the cups and using a new cone , did that worked for you ? My cups look real good and clean like the rest .

@@bernies7174 yes boat is still working great 2 seasons later with no shifting issues

@@nobama5555 Thanks for your help and quick response .

Yes definitely the fluid shouldn’t be black

@Salt Maker Ok Thanks! That Makes Perfect Sense..👍😊👍

@Salt Maker you are so right about the water pump. I've just posted a new series on this car doing that job....I think you jinxed me haha

Yes do it man, ppl don't realize how much this matters but it does. I didn't understand the importance of it til I went to school for it after the military. It's a defining factor on the life of that trans. I just bought my daughters 2 of these cars one is border line black from red (super dirty) at 167k miles the other had 136k and is red. Bit I'm servicing both. When it gets dark like this there is no protection on the internals. The filters inside are dirty and they need to be changed but since mazda decided to be genius and but the suffrage in the way your only option is unmount the Trans and jack it up to so you can drop the pan and remove it. Real garbage design that's ford mazda merger

This is true. I plan on doing another change soon to freshen it up some more.

@Salt Maker Nope. That's why i made this video because it wasn't very clear how to do the job.

@Salt Maker Hello…I have the same V6 without a dipstick as in the video. I’m thinking about doing what you describe - extracting and adding from topside. Original poster mentioned observing wiring inside the fill hole. Do you have the same model? Did vacuum tube fit inside easily without risk of damaging anything? Thanks!

Once the shifter foot pushes the cone into the cup and it grabs, it's getting the full load. There is a probably a tiny bit of slip between the surfaces before friction locks them up, by design, to minimize the jarring clunk when they lock up. Once it engages though, that clutch is what is transmitting the power from the gears to the vertical shaft.

Running and shifting fine 5000 miles later. Got a slight leak from the drain plug though.....just a little moist. I recommend changing those o rings when you do the job. I am going to do another change and replace them this spring.

Hope the vid was helpful. I am in engineering

Did this job on two spare outdrives I had lying around. I ended up buying a lot of the special tools second hand on ebay. I was also able to locate that fixture you mention at a reasonable cost. It attaches to a std engine stand and really makes things a lot easier. I figure when I’m done messing around with this I’ll just post the tools on ebay. Not right now though! Great video by the way. Are you in NH?

Mostly acorns during the hunting season

Volvo part 3852268. I found a used one fairly cheap... but seems going rate is around 50 bucks used

@@nobama5555 nice on ebay?

Yea that's where I got mine

I wondered the same thing. I think technically you could lap the lower gear in place, but I don't think you could do as good a job and it would be hard to ensure you got all the lapping compound cleaned off afterwards which is really important

@@nobama5555 hi go it thanks . i hope you dont mind i ha ve one other question the problem with my drive is that no matter where the shifter is the prop always turn ,even if the cone is neutral and i turn the u joint clock wise the prop still spiin clock wise if i switch to revers and turn the u joint the prop still turn clock wise so no matter where the cone is in neutrul reverse or foward i turn the u joint the prop still turn ,i was wondering if the reason is becouse the drive is off the boat .thank again

@@peppino66castro hard to say. It almost sounds like either the forward or reverse gear bearing is seized on the clutch shaft, but I could be missing something. Also can't really say without know how far into the teardown you are.

@@nobama5555 hi thanks again to answer my question , what happen to this out drive one the teeth of the lower units broke and it make a hole in to the case so whole of the oil came out, and i was out on the lake so i ran with water in the drive to came home but i made it .i her that could be a lot of damage if water get in and here it was a lot of water ,so far i have the actuator housing off the pinoin bearing carrier , and the upper gearhousing top cover . i was thinking to take out that 30 millimeter nut off and take out the top gear and with very fine sand paper and send tha inside of the house where the cone clutch inghages , what are you thinking good idea ? thanks again .Joe

@@peppino66castro that might get it to grab again, but the whole reason to use the original clutch to push the lapping compound is to get a uniform even pressure and surface finish. Just using your fingers and sand paper could make some high/low spots. There's also some speculation that the clutch has a special coating on it, so if that coating is worn the gear lapping will only fix half the problem. My guess is it may work temporarily but may not last. Also if you do try this, make sure you get every single piece of dust out of there afterwards, as that grit will chew up your bearings and gears.

No in my case once the clutch grabbed it had plenty of power. Sounds more like an engine issue.

I was thinking the same thing, put it in gear and brace the prop, 2ez