How to remove and install a Volvo Penta SX sterndrive, and what to inspect while there.
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- Опубліковано 25 кві 2022
- In this video I go through the steps to remove and install a Volvo SX sterndrive. We look at the inspection process by looking at the bellows, how to check the universal joints and gimbal bearing. We also find a small oil leak on the input shaft seal. I show you how to make sure your shift cable is adjusted correctly, how to adjust the shift cable can be confusing. And there are a couple tips and tricks I've learned over the years along the way to make things easier.
Thank you for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe, it helps us out to keep making more videos.
And of course, check out CanadaWideMarine.com for everything you need for your boat. - Авто та транспорт
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Do you have a video on replacing the bellows, I find you really detailed on your work and I’d like to learn from you to do mine thanks and great video
Top notch video, and maintenance. I'm new to the boating world, but like to do my own maintenance when possible. I'm glad I watched till the end, when you talked about fluid level. I thought my outdrive needed more oil because it was half way on the dip stick. Now I know it's just right. Subscribed!
Thank you for the kind words, and thanks for subscribing.
To make the shift linkage removal/install much easier just put a dab of touch up paint on the threads next to the jam nut. Then when you install just put the jam nut up to the paint mark and your adjustment should be right on.
Dude, This was perfect! I watched several other videos over the passed couple months, and this was so much quicker and so much more detailed. Thank you. I swear this was like watchin a Rob Cosman vid on cutting dovetails! lol great stuff
Thank you for the great compliment.
Thank you for making this video content and sharing your knowledge. It really help us out rookie boat owners.
Glad to help
I don’t subscribe to anyone but I subscribed to you. I just love your laid back, calm and simplistic approach to repair. It makes a dumb guy like me feel like it is possible for me to do a few things on the boat. Lol.
Thanks for the kind words Chris. Glad you enjoy my videos.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us
Thank you I wish I watched this video a couple of days ago I wouldn’t have been wrestling with my out drive I guess better late than never will definitely use that way in the future. Thanks again.
Fantastic video. Thanks from Florida!
So glad you enjoyed it. Thank you from the West Coast of Canada.
Do you suggest applying a sealer to the gimbal bellow? Great video, you make it too too easy.
Thank you for the video. Super informative. Question, I have a 5.0 gxi f with SX drive. It is very hard to steer at low speed, also makes a strange rattling noise when in gear, turning, and moving at a no wake speed. No idea what it could be.
great video and information Thank You
nice!! thanks for posting! this saved me some time!
Thanks so much for sharing!
Excellent Video
Perfect! A little different than Mercs, but well designed. On a mid 2000's DP is the shift cable adjustment difficult since it sounds like the cover is not a "wrap around" type, restricting the side view and pinch bolt?
Thank you for posting this. It is extremely helpful! There are a lot of videos showing service procedures for the older SX-M drives, but for some reason, there is almost nothing available for the SX-A drives, so this is much needed. It would be very interesting to see a demonstration of bellows replacement if you get around to it. Question: the workshop manual says to discard the 6 nuts that hold the drive to the pivot housing. Is it necessary to replace them every time they are removed?
Hi James, thanks for the comments.
Technically a nylock nut, or nylon insert locknut, is supposed to be replaced every use as the nylon insert looses much of it's locking ability after even a single use because the nylon becomes deformed to the shape of the threads. So, yes, it is necessary to replace them everytime they are removed if you want to maintain the same level of locking ability.
That said, I very rarely replace them, I can tell as I am installing or removing them how much locking there is left. And to touch on another subject I expect to do a video on in the future, I rely on the tension of the stud for it to remain tight, not the locking ability of the nut. The nylon insert really is only effective at holding the nut on after it has already come loose. Tension the stud correctly and a lock nut is not required.
top Video. Very usefull! Thank you
Great video!!
There’s a couple that mates the upper and lower unit gears together. Does that need greased when reattaching the lower to upper?
Thanks for another great video! Have you ever had to change the Volvo Penta SX-A Trim cover with the updated one that has two of the hydraulic lines coming in from the sides of the cover?
Thanks for the compliment. Yes, A few years back I changed the whole transom bracket to the new updated style that seals better.
Did you hang that drive through the dipstick port?
Hello CanadaWideMarine, first brilliant video! Very Helpful and very good explained.
May I ask a question for you superb hook to screw into the oil level-thread, what do I need to build that? Many Thanks 😉👍
The hook is a short 1/2" UNC bolt with a ring welded to the top of it. I used a big 1-1/4 " ring to fit my hook into, but you could use a link off a chain too.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Fantastic video! Just a couple of questions for you: if you hear a rumbling while you’re under way, I would suspect that my final bearing is probably the culprit but if I Don have bellows leakage can I take the gimbal bearing out without disturbing the bellows? Also, do you not use a sealant between the outdrive and the housing?
Yes, you can replace the gimbal bearing without replacing the bellows.
Awesome video, do you have to place engine in forward gear or neutral in order to remove 🤔?
It does not matter which gear the unit is in to remove it because you are disconnecting the shift cable before removing the drive. I usually leave it in neutral. I install the drive with it in gear, (fwd or reverse, doesn't matter), so I can turn the driveshaft by turning the propeller, then shift the drive into neutral before connecting the cable back up.
Thanks for watching, and the kind comments.
Do you know if it’s possible to replace the gears in the upper or do you have to replace the whole upper? Called a repair shop and they said they could only replace the whole upper
Yes, it is possible to replace the gears in the upper. But, there are other things to consider. First, are the gears available?, (I would need your make model and serial number, and possibly a gear tooth count to find out). Second, the reality is not many marine shops rebuild sterndrives any more, so the shop you called may not be setup to do it, or may do it so rarely that they are not efficient at it, so it is often more cost effective for the customer and the shop to just replace the whole upper.
I would want to know why you need gears in the upper. If they are damaged at all, I would be replacing your whole sterndrive because I would not want to be responsible for any stray bits of metal from the damaged upper gears to find their way into the lower unit and damage that.
And you should know that replacing gears in a sterndrive is not a simple job. All the gears and bearings need to be shimmed for the correct clearances. There is a whole procedure to do it correctly, it is not simply a matter of pressing the old gears off and pushing new ones on and slapping it together.
SPOT ON BEVIN!!!
Thank you.
Great video! Very methodical.
I need to replace a trim/tilt hydraulic line. How challenging is it to get to those - the correct way?
Thanks in advance.
It's been a while since I've done one, but by memory it wasn't too bad.
@@CanadaWideMarine Do you know if removing the stern drive provides access to the hydraulic trim/tilt lines, or is more disassembly required?
Again, by memory, removing the drive will give access to remove the cover over the hydraulic pump assembly and the hose fittings. Some of those covers had a corrosion issue, allowing water into the hydraulic pump, the only solution is to replace the whole transom plate.
@@CanadaWideMarine thank you!
Do you have any tips on replacing the trim lines on the left side? Very hard to get to.
It's been several years since I've replaced trim lines on the Volvo, by memory I think I removed the drive, and trim rams, then steered hard to port to get access to the cover over the line attachments on the transom plate.
@@CanadaWideMarine thank you...it was very difficult but I was able to without removing anything but the trim lines. Have to use a crowfoot wrench.
do you guys check for steering wheel play? My wheel has a lot of play. Would this be fixed in the SX-A sterndrive or in the engine bay?
If there is a lot of play in the steering wheel you kinda need to work out where it is. A common place that can cause play is in the engine bay where the steering cable enters the power steering ram, if the big nut on the cable is loose at all you will get a lot of play in the wheel. When it is correctly tightened you should not be able to slide the outer cable back and forth into and out of the nut.
Other things to check are the mounts for the power steering ram, check the pins where the inner cable attaches and the steering arm attaches to the power steering. Then you can start checking gimbal housing bearings.
All that assumes you have cable steering.
If you have hydraulic steering you are most likely low on fluid and have air in the system. you will have to top up the hydraulic fluid and bleed the air out.
@@CanadaWideMarine so helpful! Thanks a lot for taking the time to add so much detail! I’m going to check these things ASAP.
Add 11:20 you mentioned you installed a new seal 'at the front of the drive'. Where is that covered in a video? I couldn't see where that seal was and how it was replaced. Thanks
That was the input shaft seal. It is in behind the u joints. Not part of a regular service so I didn't cover that in this video. I may do some in depth repair videos in the future if there is a demand for them.
@@CanadaWideMarine Thanks for replying. I wanted to locate it and think I found it in my seloc book. It looks like its the seal protecting input bearing that holds the drive shaft portion located between visible ujoint and the upper gear housing. Enjoy your videos.
Any tips on getting the lower pivot pin out?
on the rams? Drill and tap, lots of heat and a slide hammer.
@@CanadaWideMarine No. The lower pivot pin to take the gimbal ring off.
I don't remember ever having to remove one of them myself, but I would likely use the same procedure. Lots of heat on the aluminum housing, expands the housing and breaks down the corrosion, then drill and tap the pin and use a slide hammer.
@@CanadaWideMarine Thank you. The manual says to remove it to do the bellows, but I was able to get them both on without removing the gimbal ring.
Do you have a u joint part#?
If you email make, model, and serial number to support@canadawidemarine.com we will happily get that for you.
You make this look way too easy!!! I have a DPS-A outdrive. Pretty sure they're similar except for the dual props. I love the idea of using the engine lift! How often should you change the seals and o rings? I thought they should be done every time you pull the drive? I never knew this was such an important thing to do. I've had my DPS-A for a little over 10 years. Never pulled that I know of. The boat has been used very little, so I'm hoping all is ok. I'll be pulling the drive very soon.
After ten years I would definitely change the seals and o rings. Generally I replace them every second year. I remove the drive every year.
@@CanadaWideMarine I sure like to, but I'm having trouble finding the parts I'll need. Can you recommend a website?
Email us at support@canadawide marine with your make model and serial number and we will set you up. ;)
@@CanadaWideMarine I finally found all the needed parts, but a local marine mechanic recommended using Aqua Shield grease by Quaker Houghton. It's a lithium complex NLGI #2 grease. Very high water resistance and corrosion resistance. High film strength, load capacity, temperature, and oxidation resistance. I saw you used Extreme Grease by Quicksilver. What do you think?
@@azcharlie2009 any good quality load bearing grease will do. The key is to grease it annually.
How much does service like this cost?
Hi Adam,
To remove and install a volvo sterndrive is not a big job, including running the boat up on the hose after installation should only be about 2 hours labour.
The 2 seals on the shift cable, are those available for purchase on their own? I need some for my SX-A.
I have never seen just the cable seals on their own. Our suppliers do not have them listed. Maybe the Morse cable website?