Will do , the math equation can easily be confusing. I had to walk away from it and try again. I do want to thank you for taking your time to confirm my shim sizes. A big piece of mind. Making my AQ new again!!! I’m stoked.
We’ll Dean, so sorry for the stumping question, I figured it out this am. In these videos pay super close attention, if your redoing one of these. I held true to what was said, but tested it on its side….uhh yeh this am I made it vertical, after much more Anaylizing my steps . It works perfect. Thanks to Dean, and his Ayr Cave Shop. 😊
Again, this man's videos area well done. In my 25 years of AQ series engine and stern drive work, I never took the time to do a UA-cam video. Here's some added info, if I may. At 7:35 into the video, during the sliding-sleeve-to-gear-cup lapping, I rotate the sliding sleeve with my right hand (as he does), as I simultaneously rotate the gear cup in the opposite direction with my left hand. For me, this helps to ensure that the pressure is equal around the entire circumference of the gear cup during the process. I see no limit to how many indexing rotations you can use. Be sure to remove any lapping compound from the sliding sleeve's oiling grooves. By the way, you will not find any instructions for this shown in the OEM work shop manual. I can tell you first hand that it does work. Warning: This should NOT be done to a later year model transmission that uses the Steel Sliding Sleeve and Coated Gear Cups. These also use the bronze inlayed shift shoe. A note to all: I would suggest that you NOT rely on the Seloc or Clymers manual for instructions. Too many errors in these! Use OEM only. RicardoMarine
Hi Dean, hey just wanted to pass this by you in support of your channel, as others might have a similar issue . I did mic each shim, and assembled it. And the endplay was at the low end of tolerance, (about .004”) on the nut. So its on the tight end of things. The unit gears have backlash , and are a little tight ; but are completely free, and equal. Then I went to the shift mechanism, and did some adjusting. The nutural and reverse are very “free”, however the forward gear has a measure of Resistance. The unit is laying on its side when I test it. So that might matter, but not sure. And the forward bearing is not clamped…(. I did shim out the shifter nut) to move as free as possible. But still (f) has some resistance that the others don’t. Next I took off the shift mechanism and manually put it in forward . It was as free as reverse and nuteral . after that, I did take the shift adj nut out completely. There is still drag on the forward Gear only. So I cannot get rid of the forward gear drag when shifted into forward. I was thinking of adding a .005” shim on the clamp ring to lose it up a little more. So I’m kinda stumped. Any ideas..? Thanks! Mike.
Very nice work, complete with LA's Totally Awesome cleaner. I've been using that cleaner/degreaser for at least 15 years, maybe 20. I believe it was brought to market in the 1980s (1980s - from memory... maybe 1985). You won't shock me when running that under hot water with "LA's Totally Awesome" cleaner. This detailed work is the difference between a repair job that is done correctly and a "repair job" (a mess) that will be a disaster and a complete waste of time and money! Very few people understand the details... almost none! Good job!
Hi. I'm an Engineer from England just doing my penta leg and would really appreciate your excel spreadsheet to help me calc the shims. Your videos are excellent for any Engineer to feel confident in doing the marine stuff. Thank you so much. Nigel UK
Hi Dean, I’m at the reassembly point of my 290a upper. I got some difficulties with the etched gear numbers. And the stamped b and c values. I’m not sure if these gears came out of this housing originally or not, as I bought it already disassembled. Here is the numbers, on the gears (f)= -15, (r)= -13, B=84, C=77. I ran them both ways. But not sure where to go, on this. I did put all new bearings in the upper, so I want to get this right. Any help is greatly appreciated. And your vids are second to none. I did pic up a lock ring washer from you. And it fits exceptionally well. It is piece of mind having it installed. The old brass ring looked in good shape, but was slightly distorted , Thanks for any help, and keep up the excellent work. Best Reguards, Mike (sent from wife’s I pad)
Mike, with the values you provided, here's what your shims should be: Forward gear (bottom) .005" Reverse gear (top) .003" The calc' will work even if the gears came from a different unit.
Good evening, and Congrats for the great videos, very well explaination with high quality recording. I didn't understand in which way we can measure the values (-15, -12) shown on the gears. Thanks a lot.
I think I got it figured out shim wise. Does your excel file work on iOS devices… I’d like to make sure I got it right…if so I’ll email you. You’re a master at these, for sure. Like machining , the details really matter.Thanks again, Mike
Mike, good question, I don't see why it wouldn't but I haven't tried it. But you will need a Excel compatible app installed on the ios (Ipad). I didn't see any free ones in the app store. You can open and look at it without the app, but it won't run the calculation without the app.
I have a dp-c slipping going into forward until the RPMs rise then it slams into gear. I have torn down the upper and the cups are glazed. Should i just lap them and use original cone or should I replace the cone? The drive only has 120 hours total.
Hello, I have a problem with my Volvo Penta Kad 32, Z-leg VP DP 290. During shifting forward and reverse come always loud bang. We have already replaced the cone clutch and shift cable. The other parts of the gearbox are in good condition with no signs of wear. The gear oil was also changed and checked. Idle around 700 RPM. Thanks for the help!
Check the upper unit output shaft end play (feeler gage clearance under the top nut) if it's over .020" that could be it. I like it around .006". You might be able to check that by just removing the top cover. I haven't tried doing it that way, but worth a try. The thrust washer on the bottom of the output shaft is also critical, it's a common problem item I show in the video series. These items are may not be the issue but it's what I would check first. Best of luck.....Dean
I have tried to fit an Orbitrade seal for the UJ seal, I really didn't like how it lined up either. I am struggling to find alternatives in the UK. I ordered another Orbitrade as i my have deformed it while installing it. It took an awful lot of force for it to sit flat. Do you have Orbitrade n the US if so what are your thoughts? Your videos are the best on youtube for servicing these drives, thank you for spending the time.
Yeah, the genuine Volvo seals are best, but we typically use the SKF 692517 for the U-Joint. Put some grease in the bore, there too tight to dry fit. Hope that helps...Dean
Is reshimming common when changing the pinion bearing? It seems most guys just put the same shims back in? I was always told the shims really dont change much because the shims match the housing not the bearing..any truth to this from an expert?
Hi Scotty, Your spot on, when just changing bearings, but what I'm seeing is most of these units have been serviced once or twice by god knows who...If there close I leave them as found. Sometimes there way off...proceed with caution in that case. I've had gears with the inspection marks difficult to read epically if its marked + or - so I run the calculation both ways. When in drought, run a pattern and back lash check.
@@jamiefisher8411I just coat the seal lips with some grease and a little grease coating in the seal bore it’s a tight fit. The bearing jest a few oil drops.
I let dad sell the excess items, keeps him busy in his 90's Link: www.ebay.com/usr/dellori3 He has some U-Joint assemblies not listed yet Email me for anything specific: dean57ayr@gmail.com
Dear sir, I want to thank you for your valuable help with the assembly and disassembly of the stern drive 290 D P I built most of the parts in this set by copying from another used drive that I bought with a lot of problems, I've been working on it for several years. Without your guidance I wouldn't have achieved anything, I really appreciate it. I'm assembling the reverser pinion but I can't find out for sure the bearing numbers and I thought I'd ask for your help to find out the numbers for sure, I have SKF 30207 and 30307, FAG 31307. I would be very grateful if you could confirm. If I can reciprocate it would be great. I live in Brazil. Jose Manuel C Alvarez.
Jose, the correct numbers are: small bearing 30207 (sometimes J2 at the end) large bearing 31307 (sometimes J2 at the end) these are normally bearing sets, cup and cone. that other number 30307 sounds like one of the cups. Just get the sets above. Dean
@@TheAyrCaveShop Thank you for your help and attention, I have been visiting your videos on You Tube for many months, A Q Upper, 01, 02, 03,04, 05 and Duoprop Lower Outdrive, Mr. Excellent master has helped me a lot, even without speaking English, I understand.
Will do , the math equation can easily be confusing. I had to walk away from it and try again. I do want to thank you for taking your time to confirm my shim sizes. A big piece of mind. Making my AQ new again!!! I’m stoked.
We’ll Dean, so sorry for the stumping question, I figured it out this am. In these videos pay super close attention, if your redoing one of these. I held true to what was said, but tested it on its side….uhh yeh this am I made it vertical, after much more Anaylizing my steps . It works perfect. Thanks to Dean, and his Ayr Cave Shop. 😊
Good news 👍
All of the components look really high quality. It's nice to still see that.
Again, this man's videos area well done.
In my 25 years of AQ series engine and stern drive work, I never took the time to do a UA-cam video.
Here's some added info, if I may.
At 7:35 into the video, during the sliding-sleeve-to-gear-cup lapping, I rotate the sliding sleeve with my right hand (as he does), as I simultaneously rotate the gear cup in the opposite direction with my left hand.
For me, this helps to ensure that the pressure is equal around the entire circumference of the gear cup during the process.
I see no limit to how many indexing rotations you can use.
Be sure to remove any lapping compound from the sliding sleeve's oiling grooves.
By the way, you will not find any instructions for this shown in the OEM work shop manual. I can tell you first hand that it does work.
Warning: This should NOT be done to a later year model transmission that uses the Steel Sliding Sleeve and Coated Gear Cups.
These also use the bronze inlayed shift shoe.
A note to all: I would suggest that you NOT rely on the Seloc or Clymers manual for instructions. Too many errors in these!
Use OEM only.
RicardoMarine
Thanks Mark for the nice comment and great info !!
ATB....Dean
Hi Dean, hey just wanted to pass this by you in support of your channel, as others might have a similar issue . I did mic each shim, and assembled it. And the endplay was at the low end of tolerance, (about .004”) on the nut. So its on the tight end of things. The unit gears have backlash , and are a little tight ; but are completely free, and equal. Then I went to the shift mechanism, and did some adjusting. The nutural and reverse are very “free”, however the forward gear has a measure of Resistance. The unit is laying on its side when I test it. So that might matter, but not sure. And the forward bearing is not clamped…(. I did shim out the shifter nut) to move as free as possible. But still (f) has some resistance that the others don’t.
Next I took off the shift mechanism and manually put it in forward . It was as free as reverse and nuteral . after that, I did take the shift adj nut out completely. There is still drag on the forward Gear only. So I cannot get rid of the forward gear drag when shifted into forward. I was thinking of adding a .005” shim on the clamp ring to lose it up a little more.
So I’m kinda stumped. Any ideas..? Thanks! Mike.
Hey Mike, there will always be a bit of drag in forward due to the cone clutch spring. Your just looking for a tight spot or excess drag.
Very nice work, complete with LA's Totally Awesome cleaner. I've been using that cleaner/degreaser for at least 15 years, maybe 20. I believe it was brought to market in the 1980s (1980s - from memory... maybe 1985).
You won't shock me when running that under hot water with "LA's Totally Awesome" cleaner.
This detailed work is the difference between a repair job that is done correctly and a "repair job" (a mess) that will be a disaster and a complete waste of time and money! Very few people understand the details... almost none!
Good job!
Thank You...Great comment and information !
Rebuild is coming along nicely 👍🍻
Hi. I'm an Engineer from England just doing my penta leg and would really appreciate your excel spreadsheet to help me calc the shims. Your videos are excellent for any Engineer to feel confident in doing the marine stuff. Thank you so much. Nigel UK
Nigel, send me an email at:
dean57ayr@gmail.com
and I'll send the file..
ATB...Dean
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤
Great video! I am doing some service on my DP290 so your video came in a perfect time :)
Best regards from Norway!
Hi Dean, I’m at the reassembly point of my 290a upper. I got some difficulties with the etched gear numbers. And the stamped b and c values. I’m not sure if these gears came out of this housing originally or not, as I bought it already disassembled. Here is the numbers, on the gears (f)= -15, (r)= -13, B=84, C=77. I ran them both ways. But not sure where to go, on this. I did put all new bearings in the upper, so I want to get this right. Any help is greatly appreciated. And your vids are second to none. I did pic up a lock ring washer from you. And it fits exceptionally well. It is piece of mind having it installed. The old brass ring looked in good shape, but was slightly distorted , Thanks for any help, and keep up the excellent work. Best Reguards, Mike (sent from wife’s I pad)
Mike I'll run the calc for you tomorrow....busy day
Mike, with the values you provided, here's what your shims should be:
Forward gear (bottom) .005"
Reverse gear (top) .003"
The calc' will work even if the gears came from a different unit.
Good evening, and Congrats for the great videos, very well explaination with high quality recording. I didn't understand in which way we can measure the values (-15, -12) shown on the gears. Thanks a lot.
Yeah they didn't make it easy...
send me a email and I send the spreadsheet..
dean57ayr@gmail.com
Thank you! fantastic videos
Thanks for sharing
Great videos🤙🏼
A great video tutorial😀👍
Thank you 👍
Really helpful! Thanks
You're welcome!
I think I got it figured out shim wise. Does your excel file work on iOS devices… I’d like to make sure I got it right…if so I’ll email you. You’re a master at these, for sure. Like machining , the details really matter.Thanks again, Mike
Mike, good question, I don't see why it wouldn't but I haven't tried it. But you will need a Excel compatible app installed on the ios (Ipad). I didn't see any free ones in the app store.
You can open and look at it without the app, but it won't run the calculation without the app.
Great content thank you. Wondering if you could use an ultrasonic bath to clean these units?
I would avoid the bearings with the ultrasonic. The other parts should be fine.
ATB....Thanks
I have a dp-c slipping going into forward until the RPMs rise then it slams into gear. I have torn down the upper and the cups are glazed. Should i just lap them and use original cone or should I replace the cone? The drive only has 120 hours total.
Just lap them lightly, it doesn't take much. Check the condition of the bottom thrust washer, should be flat not cupped.
Hello, I have a problem with my Volvo Penta Kad 32, Z-leg VP DP 290. During shifting forward and reverse come always loud bang. We have already replaced the cone clutch and shift cable. The other parts of the gearbox are in good condition with no signs of wear. The gear oil was also changed and checked. Idle around 700 RPM.
Thanks for the help!
Check the upper unit output shaft end play (feeler gage clearance under the top nut) if it's over .020" that could be it. I like it around .006". You might be able to check that by just removing the top cover. I haven't tried doing it that way, but worth a try. The thrust washer on the bottom of the output shaft is also critical, it's a common problem item I show in the video series. These items are may not be the issue but it's what I would check first.
Best of luck.....Dean
I have noticed that the bang is not soo noisy when the ship is moving. At around 4mph the shifting is completly silent (forwoard of course)
I have tried to fit an Orbitrade seal for the UJ seal, I really didn't like how it lined up either. I am struggling to find alternatives in the UK. I ordered another Orbitrade as i my have deformed it while installing it. It took an awful lot of force for it to sit flat. Do you have Orbitrade n the US if so what are your thoughts?
Your videos are the best on youtube for servicing these drives, thank you for spending the time.
Yeah, the genuine Volvo seals are best, but we typically use the SKF 692517 for the U-Joint. Put some grease in the bore, there too tight to dry fit.
Hope that helps...Dean
When this unit is fitted back on the boat and run up does the top unit feel warm/hot after a while.
Should not be hot. Warm is normal with any gear box. Make sure it's not overfilled..
Is reshimming common when changing the pinion bearing? It seems most guys just put the same shims back in? I was always told the shims really dont change much because the shims match the housing not the bearing..any truth to this from an expert?
Hi Scotty, Your spot on, when just changing bearings, but what I'm seeing is most of these units have been serviced once or twice by god knows who...If there close I leave them as found. Sometimes there way off...proceed with caution in that case. I've had gears with the inspection marks difficult to read epically if its marked + or - so I run the calculation both ways. When in drought, run a pattern and back lash check.
Is the joint oil seal the same for the 270?
Yep 270 through 290-A are the same seal
Do you pack the actual underside of the replacement oil seal before pressing back down?
@@jamiefisher8411I just coat the seal lips with some grease and a little grease coating in the seal bore it’s a tight fit.
The bearing jest a few oil drops.
@@TheAyrCaveShop thank you so much. Putting my first one back together now. Your video's are much appreciated.
Do you accept transmissions for repairs?
Yes I do, contact me via email: dean57ayr@gmail.com
Woild you have spare second hand parts you voils sell dp 290?
I let dad sell the excess items, keeps him busy in his 90's
Link:
www.ebay.com/usr/dellori3
He has some U-Joint assemblies not listed yet
Email me for anything specific:
dean57ayr@gmail.com
Dear sir, I want to thank you for your valuable help with the assembly and disassembly of the stern drive 290 D P
I built most of the parts in this set by copying from another used drive that I bought with a lot of problems, I've been working on it for several years.
Without your guidance I wouldn't have achieved anything, I really appreciate it.
I'm assembling the reverser pinion but I can't find out for sure the bearing numbers and I thought I'd ask for your help to find out the numbers for sure, I have SKF 30207 and 30307,
FAG 31307.
I would be very grateful if you could confirm. If I can reciprocate it would be great.
I live in Brazil.
Jose Manuel C Alvarez.
Jose, the correct numbers are:
small bearing 30207 (sometimes J2 at the end)
large bearing 31307 (sometimes J2 at the end)
these are normally bearing sets, cup and cone.
that other number 30307 sounds like one of the cups. Just get the sets above.
Dean
@@TheAyrCaveShop Thank you for your help and attention,
I have been visiting your videos on You Tube for many months, A Q Upper, 01, 02, 03,04, 05 and Duoprop Lower Outdrive, Mr. Excellent master has helped me a lot, even without speaking English, I understand.