Part 5 - Removing Oil Sump and Oil Filter Disassembly on Dacia Sandero Renault D4F 1.2 Engine
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- How to remove Oil Sump and I disassemble the oil Filter on this Dacia Sandero with the 1.2 petrol D4F engine as fitted to the Renault Clio as well. (Part 5 of 7) Applies to Renault Clio Twingo Modus
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⬇️Timecodes
00:06 Introduction
00:39 Draining the Engine Oil
05:42 Removing the Oil Sump Pan
07:33 Look at the Crank & Big Ends
08:47 Metal Soup in the Pan
09:36 Sump Drained over night
11:50 Oil Filter Dissection
14:49 Big End Check
16:38 Torque Information
16:44 Reference Photographs
17:20 Credits
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This video only contains tips and my personal methods that could be helpful when carrying out home car repairs or replacing parts. Coats & Gaiters is not liable for any harm, injury or property damage incurred while carrying out such repairs or replacements, that are a result of incorrect use or misinterpretation of the provided information. This video is for informational purposes only and does not guarantee achievement of a specific result. The user is personally liable for incorrect use of repair equipment, tools or car parts, in particular, when this use poses the risk of injury. Coats & Gaiters strongly advises taking personal care and adhering to all safety rules when doing any repair or replacement. The use on inferior or low quality vehicle parts does not guarantee the proper level of road safety.
#dacia #sandero #daciasanderostepway - Авто та транспорт
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I can confirm in my professional opinion the bottom end is scrap! There should not be any movement in the big end bearings.
The bearing clearances should be fractional, and movement that can be felt at all is excessive and will cause the knock.
The cause of failure will be engine-wide oil starvation, hence why all four are the same. Most likely caused by someone running it dry of oil.
The bearings will have spun hence all the swarf, the crankshaft would need to be machined and reground and that is assuming the main bearing face is even servicable, if not then the block is scrap.
Also consider the damage that the bores may have incurred due to oil starvation.
With the amount of effort required to strip and rebuild the engine, assuming the block itself isn't scrap, you might as well replace the entire engine with a known good one.
Thank you so much for your time to write all that for me. Any views on why the oil filter appears to be totally clean with no obvious signs of metal in? I plan to take the cam off to see if any damage is up there. I was looking on eBay for a spare engine as they seem to be around £300.
@@CoatsandGaiters You're more than welcome. I believe it will have remained clean because the metal sediments will have settled in the bottom of the sump and not been taken up by the pickup, especially when the oil is hot and less viscous. As a bit of a strange analogy imagine sand in a glass of water, if you put a straw about 3/4 the way down you're not necessarily going to suck up the sand, it just stays in the bottom.
Potentially the oil filter has been changed after the main damage occurred - e.g perhaps the engine ran dry of oil and then when the oil light came on someone has fitted a new filter and filled it with oil, hence that "new" filter has not been exposed to the residual swarf that has got stuck at the bottom of the sump.
I expect you may find some fragments if you degreased the filter medium but not as much as you may expect
My vote goes to bearings.
Ummm I'm not keen on all this news lol
I just love seeing your real world issues. You can't script these kind of things! 😂
Hope you feel better soon though.
As for the play on the crank, you shouldn't be able to move it like that, these bearing shells are worn.
Thank you, it was that dreaded thing yet again that shut the World down lol I soldiered on for my subs though haha. Buy new shells for them? remember I am a real tight ass on car parts. Maybe some old Castrol GTX 10w40 would take the slack up.
@@CoatsandGaiters just shells might be cheaper than an used engine but... If the bottom end suffered from oil starvation I fear what damage the top end has.
A new to you engine is definitely less risk.
I'm entering an area where cheap skates can get burnt now haha@@lukas0846
@@CoatsandGaiters plus the content for the channel would definitely be very interesting.
Easy for me to say as I don't have to put in the effort 😁
Borg and back are very bad filters. Try with man ot mahle filter and new oil in. The cheapest one 10w40.
I had bought a couple of Bosch ones but like you say the Man and Mahle are what I normally buy if I can. Isn't it odd the filter hasn't collected any signs of metal at all?
@@CoatsandGaiters
There is a pressure bypass valve in oil filter. He can get stuck in open position and allow oil to flow directly to engine without filtering. There can be also restriction in oil channels, problems with oil pump, oil pump releif valve and so on. To be sure take an oil pressure test with idle speed and with 2-3000rpm.
Thank you. I reckon that filter is way too clean for the condition of the oil, could be like you say. Next job is to take a look at the cam I think and see if its ok, I'm getting messages about the big end bearings being likely trashed as the big ends moved to much when I wiggled them..@@mr.t2585
@@CoatsandGaiters
Left to right movement is normal but up down must be firm. If you have spun bearing sound knocking like that rods will be out of the block already. As i understand sound is from upper side of the engine?? There is one camshaft for 16 valves. Remove the valvetrain from camshaft and take a look.. sure you will find broken roller or broken spring
That's my next job to remove the cam @@mr.t2585
Funny video! No new copper special washer on the drainplug? It will prevent oil leak at the drainplug. Nice to see that you will solve the problem by yourself. Good luck.
I heard heating them back to cherry red makes then reusable but I have been very lazy in ever doing that and too tight to just buy some new ones. Definitely was dripping though wasn't it.
Had a very similar experience with a 1117 Valencia engine nearly 40 years ago as the oil pressure was good i considered the mains to be reasonably fit i took a gamble and replaced the rod bearings. The knocking went a way but it was a very tired engine. I later discovered that the chap I'd bought the fiesta off of had tried unsuccessfully to flush the engine with paraffin. Anyhow the car ran for a couple of more years with regular oil changes until rust got the better of it.
Ironically I had a Fiesta with a 1 litre engine in. P reg I think with very low miles but burnt oil like crazy. It was all crusty inside with burnt oil. Engine was ruined. Tried to replace valve seals but it still burnt oil like mad.
You are putting real quality in your vids. Keep the good work! The metal is from past times , good suttle down at the oil pan. This is my hypothesis...
Thank you for that. I'm tempted to take it for an MOT just to see if it passes.
I’m very much looking forward to the next instalment. I hope you’re feeling better
Thank you, it just that 2020 thing going around again. Left me a bit spaced out as you can see haha I think the cam needs to come off next.
Funny, because it resembles myself when things go south. 😂
Haha we are all the same arn't we. My wife has to put up with this lol
That’s got me crying with laughter. Got tears rolling down my face
See people love it when I fail in life haha
Is the Crankshaft hitting the sump. Had this year ago after car jack hit the sump ?
No I don't think so. The noise was really hard sounding.
14:14 try to press folded filter material in the vise to get all of the oil out. My guess is the particles are small and the filter should be full of them but because they have similar color to the oil they can't be seen.
Thank you will try that as I still have the filter.
Imho rod bearings are done for, it should only be possible to slide them crankshaft lengthwise. In the video it looks like they are wobbling every which way. On top of that milky residue in oil - classic worn engine bearing sign. You should check one of the rod bearings, middle ones should be the worst. Idk about main bearings(it depends on the engine) but my guess is that they are ok or at least in better shape than rod ones. If the crankshaft has no scoring at all you are lucky and this should be a fairly cheap fix 👍
Thank you for such detailed information. My worry is if I start to take things apart too much wouldn't it be just cheaper to get another engine off ebay for £300. I'm terrible at buying car parts as there are so many model variation over the years. Is there a one stop supplier for Renault parts at ebay prices.
@@CoatsandGaiters I understand, your concerns are valid. I can't give advice about parts but I can tell you about my experience: my peug 1.6hdi started knocking. When draining engine oil was milky and oil pan had similar sludge on top of that one of the rods was very loose and bearing was spun. When I removed the damaged bearing I could see that the crankshaft was damaged and decided to swap the engine(if the crankshaft would have been ok I would have only changed the rod bearings). So I ended up searching for an engine in nearby wreck yards, drove around a few of them and picked the cleanest looking & fairly cheap engine. After swapping it barely started and ran very rough, so I checked compression it was low(can't remember precise values). I ended up tearing down the replacement engine. It had a blown gasket and rather worn rod bearings so I had to buy another one. I got a bit lucky and the same wreck yard offered to swap another engine for the teared down engine's parts plus ~50€(turns out the rule is: if the engine is bad - return it whole and they give you another one for free). After swapping in the second replacement engine I was finally done, it runs smoothly and hopefully will last for awhile. If you end up searching for an engine try to get one that is known to run good or better yet somehow check compression.
Thank you for that. Did you see my series on the Mini with the 1.6HDI engine. It had exactly what yours did I think. I did loads of work as cam chain tensioner had failed but after mending all that it drove amazing for 200 miles and then knocked like crazy.@@arunas554
I’m sorry but that was so funny 😂 😂😂
Have had better weeks lol video quality went down a bit but hey ho.
I do not want to sound like a wiseguy, but make a little hole on the other upper side of the old oil canister (beyond the handle) and the air can escape from the other side while the oil runs in the canister through the main hole. (I liked the swear words bleeper, great idea !)
Thank you for that info but I’m not quite understanding. Mark needs really simple instructions lol sorry
@@CoatsandGaiters ok, I am refering about at minute 2:54 .... I make you an example, fluid goes in a narrow hole, the air becomes dense and cannot escape the incoming fluid fast enough, you give with a second hole the air a chance to escape faster, thus the air becomes less dense and the fluid cannot overflow. And the bigger the hole is the more air can escape and faster the fluid can enter the main hole. ..... Or much simpler, never use a canister (bottleform), instead use a tub form.
@@pw10a2sal thank you for explaining in more detail.