If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Could it be the valve stem seals leaking oil into cylinder 2? Maybe explains the low compression? Or some kind of burnt out valve. Blow by could be making it knock.
I removed a heater plug from a Nissan Terrano 3.0 diesel many years ago, with a similar build up as your plug. It was diagnosed by Nissan as a leaking head gasket passing water into No4 cylinder or possibly a porous head/block. When the engine ran hot there was noticeable steam from the exhaust. After some research and speaking with my local garage I was guided to use a product called K seal. Following the instructions to a T, it 100% fixed the issue. The vehicle went onto run without any issues for many years.👍👍
Good video! Not a professionnal, but when looking at spark plug charts, the bizarre crusted spark plug looks like ash-fouled examples, stemming from burning oil and/or fuel additives. All the spark plugs also look oil-fouled at the base. When you replace the spark plugs, it's a good idea to replace spark plugs wire as well, as they degrade over time. You can check the wires resistance against the spec to see that. Some people also replace the coil pack. I would do the same: replace the spark plugs and see if that solves the issue. Something I'd do as well is take a borescope to check the top of the pistons, especially to see if one of them have valves imprinted on it, if you can see any oil/coolant there or anything else out of place.
Thank you. My next step has to be to replace the spark plugs as they are wrecked. I was thinking of doing a sniffer test like you say to check head gasket. I don't have a borescope grrrr maybe I should look into getting one as it would help.
@@CoatsandGaiters I don't have one either, but that's certainly been on my "to buy" list for a while now! I've seen them used in several videos, and it seems super useful to be able to inspect the compression chamber.
hello... im looking at a Haynes manual for servicing a Renault clio mk2 D4F engine at it states cylinders from flywheel 1-3-4-2. Converting this to looking at the engine from the front perspective like the video it is 2-4-3-1. not even close to what your video states. What could be the reason for this??
@@CoatsandGaiters looking at the diagrams online, they don't call it that, so I'm afraid, what would happen if the engine started during the test? thanks.
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Could it be the valve stem seals leaking oil into cylinder 2? Maybe explains the low compression? Or some kind of burnt out valve. Blow by could be making it knock.
Thank you for the comment. I probably will have to remove the cam cover soon. Not sure whether to do a leak down test first though.
I removed a heater plug from a Nissan Terrano 3.0 diesel many years ago, with a similar build up as your plug. It was diagnosed by Nissan as a leaking head gasket passing water into No4 cylinder or possibly a porous head/block. When the engine ran hot there was noticeable steam from the exhaust. After some research and speaking with my local garage I was guided to use a product called K seal. Following the instructions to a T, it 100% fixed the issue. The vehicle went onto run without any issues for many years.👍👍
arrr thank you for that. I was wondering if it might be coolant related and possibly a leaking head gasket. I will have to investigate further.
Good video!
Not a professionnal, but when looking at spark plug charts, the bizarre crusted spark plug looks like ash-fouled examples, stemming from burning oil and/or fuel additives. All the spark plugs also look oil-fouled at the base.
When you replace the spark plugs, it's a good idea to replace spark plugs wire as well, as they degrade over time. You can check the wires resistance against the spec to see that. Some people also replace the coil pack.
I would do the same: replace the spark plugs and see if that solves the issue. Something I'd do as well is take a borescope to check the top of the pistons, especially to see if one of them have valves imprinted on it, if you can see any oil/coolant there or anything else out of place.
Thank you. My next step has to be to replace the spark plugs as they are wrecked. I was thinking of doing a sniffer test like you say to check head gasket. I don't have a borescope grrrr maybe I should look into getting one as it would help.
@@CoatsandGaiters I don't have one either, but that's certainly been on my "to buy" list for a while now! I've seen them used in several videos, and it seems super useful to be able to inspect the compression chamber.
Looking forward to the next part. Finding engine knocks is always a pain
Thank you
in my clio 3 1.2 gpl, which one should I remove exactly? is that enough or do I have to remove something else too?
Sorry I'm not quite understanding
hello... im looking at a Haynes manual for servicing a Renault clio mk2 D4F engine at it states cylinders from flywheel 1-3-4-2. Converting this to looking at the engine from the front perspective like the video it is 2-4-3-1. not even close to what your video states. What could be the reason for this??
French cars often have cylinder 1 at the gearbox end for some reason but normally cylinder 1 is timing belt end on most cars
@@CoatsandGaiters ooooh thanks for the rep.
nella clio 3 d4f dove si trova il rele' carburante?
Its the small relay just below the 60,60 and 50 amp fuses under the bonnet.
@@CoatsandGaiters looking at the diagrams online, they don't call it that, so I'm afraid, what would happen if the engine started during the test? thanks.
@@ce9xy its the small relay just below the 60,60 and 50 amp fuses under the bonnet. I took a photo but you can't upload a photo in comments.
ua-cam.com/video/LIcWCO26VAg/v-deo.htmlsi=FWmXcG8XbqvbUzu1&t=199
Ha ha. EBay algorithm