This worked for me. Bought for $80 a set of 2 bearings. Installed both rear for $150 labor. Happy with the results. Much less noise inside of the car, and no lights anymore.
My currently has a very loud noise so I’m assuming that’s what it’s for? I’ve had the stablitrak light come on and off every once in awhile but never stays on
unfortunately, the malibu was totaled New Years day. some jackwagon braked checked my wife and she ended up under the rear of a suburban. so no more vids on the Malibu.
Thank you sir. I’ve had my 2013 Chevy Malibu since new with about 102,000 miles now and the stabilitrac light has now made its presence known. I’m glad your video was the first to pop up. It is my Friday of my work week and now I have a fun project to complete. Again. Thank you for the informative video.
Thank you! I'd give more but I'm doing this despite recovering from a rotator cuff surgery because I"m broke. But thisis the ifrst time I've given and it's because this is a fantastic, well done instructional video by a fellow "tree shade" mechanic! I posted a question just to clarify one part, but man, you do a great video!
I had a similar issue with my 2010 Chevy HHR . At about 4 years old, I had "SVC ABS, SVC Traction, etc". Dealer "fixed" it by replacing an electronic harness--eventually on both front wheels. Guess what, ~4 years later, the same warnings come back up. I didn't even bother getting it "fixed". Recently purchased a low mileage 2014 Malibu and the owner stated that the Stablitrak needed servicing, he had the part on order and was waiting for it to come in so that he could change it. He mentioned that little ring you had mentioned in the video. I'm guessing that that was the issue with my HHR and not some electronic harness. I'm filing this video for future reference because I know I'll probably need it! Thank you!
I just replaced one of mine for the second time. I bought a "Hub Buster". You slam on that with an 8lb sledge, and it will persuadify that thing right off. Otherwise you are fighting a literal chemical weld. Another trick you can do is to completely remove the spindle and knock the hub out from the backside with a 5lb hammer and a nice thick punch, going round and round the circle.
Mannnnnnn You Was A Blessing..I Didnt Fix It Myself..But I Was Able To Go In There Talking Like I Knew What I Was Talking About..Lol..(AND DAMN IT U WAS RIGHT)Got It Fixed For The Low Low...(APPRECIATE YO INFO)
I’m glad I came across your video my 2015 Malibu has 205,000 miles on it. Thanks to your video I will have an idea of the diagnosis if I should come across this issue
I also have the same problem with my15 Malibu, you save me a bunch of hassle, can’t begin to thank you, certainly appreciate it, im now a new subscriber so keep them coming, looking forward to more 🙏
80 yr old female ((they always see me coming!)). East coast central NY... 2017 Chev Express... 2nd offense in less than one year. Dropping it off tomorrow. 😟
Gee, you didn't have to transfer the wheel studs!! Now my 2012 Chevy Cruze has rear drum brakes...will be interesting to see what I run into when I change my hub. All 3 lights are on with low tire pressure showing on right rear.
I was just about to ask the same question, while mine was erroring out. Then after shutting car off, moved ignition to on, then to power, then started and the error was gone. My 2013 Malibu was also having a power issue, but now it is cranking like normal.
Correction, if you go to a autozone or advance and they have a good scanner that reads abs codes, they can scan the car and give you the code as to which hub is throwing the code. In my case, it was a C0050, right rear...
Thank you so much for an awesome tutorial!! Working thru chemo brain and you kept it simple for even myself to understand! Lol Soon as I pulled away from the garage, the ABS/traction control/ and the Brake Assist all came on and soon as I made first turn, the darn Stabiltrack light came on also! It doesn’t stay on constantly but it is still on and off. Again, thank you so much for ur helpful video!
Great video! I have been having several issues and took my 2016 Malibu to be serviced and stabilitrac was one and they couldn't/didn't fix it because it didn't show up when they ran diagnostics. So needless to say I was under the impression that it was fixed come to find out it wasn't. Ugh, I nearly had a heart attack when they told me to bring it back in and was told if the code doesn't come through they can't touch it. I don't know why they don't listen to the customer and at least look when it directly states on the dash. I should just do it myself.
Man do I envy you and not having to deal with rust! Here on the east coast, if it's more than a year old, you are fighting! When you put up the "moments later" thing, I thought you had my luck and was going to say that the fault light came back on! Lol
Mine just came on the other day driving in snow and I only have just shy of 84,000 miles thanks for the video definitely looks like an easy fix hopefully mine comes off that easily living in Maine
300, isn't a bad price to replace the hub. but then ima cheap bastard and if I can do it for 100, well 200 bucks is 200 bucks, you know what I'm saying?
I have the same issue with my 2015 Chevy Malibu LT but the difference is when you driving the stabilitrak signal flashing on dashboard and after a few minutes the engine start to loose power and stop. I have to restart the car to continue. Can you help me what’s going on please
Thanks for the video. How did you know which wheel hub needed to be replaced? I recently replaced the rear driver hub because the bearings would buzzing so it was obviously bad. My stabilitrak light is on and I have no idea how to figure out which hub could be bad. Thanks!
My car did that and it was the wheel bearing I changed it and havnt had a problem since. Weird thing is it was my right rear one as well but I just changed both of them cause they were rusted
Just fixed the left rear on my girlfriends 2013 chevy malibu, now a month later I’m getting the code C0040-f0, front right speed sensor erratic signal, is this the same fix? Just get the part again and throw it in?
check the wiring first. then see if you can visually inspect the reluctor ring on the wheel bearing. The computer is looking at the wheel speeds at all 4 corners to detect a speed differential. that activates traction control through the anti lock brakes. its possible the fix is going to be the same, but give the sensor and its harness a good look.
@@dzlfreek man I can’t thank you enough, from upstate New York, the rustiest crustiest place on earth for working on a damn car! Hopefully I can get enough day light to get it done before I gotta shovel to the wheel bearing 😂
Had the same problem turns out there was a crack in the air intake hose attached closer to the engine there was a big crack in the hose causing all sorts of problems like Stabilitrak engine misfire car would shut off well idling
Ami malibu primero se le prende el traking y luego de inmediato cambia a reducion de la potencia de el motor usted cree que esa falla la marque por lo mismos del tracks???
That's the problem I have. And the car will jerk real hard. When I come to a stop I have to keep my foot on the break and gas at the same time. I've had the service track light come on. And reduced engine light on my 15 Malibu. 2.5. a good friend of mines a master mechanic. And he told me it sounds like a timing chain issue. So I went and found a engine to swap out. I'm at 140,000 miles. And I found a 20,000 mile engine for 600$. I figured that would just as easy and probably cheaper then having it rebuilt..
Looks like I'll be dealing with this same problem, great video, not looking forward to pulling the spindle down, I've replaced many hubs, but this one looks like it's going to be a pain in the azz.😟
What if I have recently hit 100000 miles on my chevy malibu (2015) and while driving and switching lanes, the slippery road icon popped up and then then it says "reduced engine power" and said a maximum speed of 29mi allowed. I pulled over and restarted the car and was able to drive slower roads (still 50mi and hour) and it didn't pop up again. Shop is also quoting 600 based off just the engine power reduced notification.
I had these both pop up 12,000 mile ago and no noises at all. Till about 450 miles ago ! I couldn’t find wich hub it was still can’t , no play , no noise jacked up off the ground , nothing unless driving ! It’s driving me nuts ! Also would anyone know how you would know if it was the abs drive inside internally ? The worst that it could be ? I get my brake pedal that once it downshifts from 2md the pedal goes down a bit more than it was before it downshifted . It’s odd as heck !
What a great video! Girlfriend's car has the same error, my reader doesn't do ABS codes so not sure which hub is causing the issue. Even if I have to replace all 4 I'm still in for less than $300 so sounds like a good spring project in a month or two! Thanks!
Good video I'm having the same problem and just came on tonight on my way home from work but I already have my wheel barrings/hub Replaced Back Tires...back in 2017.. Could in be I need to replace my front wheel bearings🤔🤔
Someone with a scan tool that can read the antilock brake module can pinpoint the wheel. A visual inspection can as well but requires that you get under the car and in a position to see the wheel bearing, where the reluctor ring is. Look for segments missing from the reluctor ring
thank you unfortunately I cant do that myself but alot of stuff I can thanks to youtube videos, just wondering about mine, 1st the psi light came on and wouldn't give pressure in tire, just dashes saying ----- L ? now all those other lights are on.. my sunroof is leaking down the drains in the floor board thought the wires might have gotten wet got to fix that 1st..:(
the sunroof probably has some sort of drain to dissipate water. look to see it there is one. its probably plugged with dirt. The TPMS isn't reading the sensor in the wheel and that will trip a check engine light as well as the stabilitrac light and probably the ABS light. I currently have a TPMS sensor thats bad and the dash is lit up like a Christmas tree!
Replaced one side. If I could've replaced the reluctor ring instead of the whole cartridge I wouldve, since there wasn't anything wrong with the bearing. I didn't see the need to replace the other side. but Im sure you'll tell me how I screwed up. BTW, its been three years since I made that repair. Still works fine.
My seal valve needs to be replaced... On my 2013 Malibu but other than that 114,000 miles 10 years and wheel bearing replacement... Is it worth it to change the oil valve seal or sell the car?
FWIW. My passenger front TPM sensor went bad this week. “Service tire pressure monitor system” is the warning that comes up on the cluster as well as the stabilitrac icon.
there weren't any symptoms, per se. But anti-lock brakes and stability control are off line. Depending on your governing jurisdiction, you may not pass emissions with all those lights on the dash
great vid! ill be doing this soon any tips on how to identify which bearing?? i do gotta do my brakes soon. i guess ill have to take a look at the bearing
I took it to a local garage that didn't charge anything to clear the code. the tech told me what sensor was bad. you could do a visual inspection of the reluctor wheel on the bearing to see if that was bad.
I have the message come up but also says speed is limited to 25 mph and then the last time the message came on the brakes didn’t work properly. Is this the same issue as the relunter ring?
My ABS light isn’t on but my Service Stablitrack is and when I slow down has a little kick back at time. It will also cut off at stops and cranks right back up. Gets worse when driving more. Would this be it?
im not sure, but as I understand it (and I may be all wrong) stabilitrac uses the ABS to control wheel speed. The stall issue may not be related. The only way to know is to have the car scanned
you can visually see the reluctor ring on the bearing. or you can take it to a garage that has a scan tool capable of reading the traction control/anti-lock brakes.
This is a great video! I'm planning to do this work myself today. But quick question about putting things back together. When you say you have to have the weight of the vehicle on the control arms before tightening their bolts to avoiding tearing the bushings out. - placing the jack on the lower control arm and raising it slightly to confirm the weight is on it is enough? Or does the jack need to be moved again to the upport control arm in some way also before tightening it's bolts? Just want to be careful...
best practice is to have the vehicle at ride hight, with the weight of the vehicle on all fours, then tighten the bolts. although, the jack under the lower control arm you could probably get away with.
Controllers have timers built in then and software to check for inaccurate signals, missing or erratic signal. The sensor are of several type but mild steel with a magnet and coil of wire. The circuit is checked by a low voltage drop, resistance but only while moving, seeing an erratic signal for a period of time before it sets a hard code. The ring is magnetized in a radial fashion. It can attract rust, iron fillings, ferric oxides or anything that a magnet will pick up. No hard code, safely inspect and clean the ring with compressed air, rag pushed with a split paint stick or a simple round plastic brush. Air gap is crucial but most likely won’t change. It chunks are missing or small sections of chipping damage as this ring rotated, then replace. Lay a sheet of paper over magnetic ring and sprinkle iron fillings on it. You will see a pattern develop of lines away from the center very close together. It would be nice if the ring was sold with epoxy so it could be replaced, but no one does even though it has no index and thin as a refrigerator magnet and mostly the materials. Look up torque online or size/grade of bolt, but like in the video always use a torque wrench not colored torque sticks at tire shops! Ever! Not only damage to studs but over tighten and few can break lugs bug nuts loose on the road. Shame, I hate those stupid sticks and sold as time saver! Who? The tech as 1/2” drive impacts are different, air pressure and trigger time. Torque wrench in tool box, use that! DK, ASE master tech since 78
"getting too fat and too old" LOL That's my line!! Actually my late grandmother would always tell me when i was a kid, "don't get old kid" as she complained about her arthritis...cheers! Well I was about to suggest you could have disconnected the car battery to "reset" the warning light...that's what I had to do to our Camry, when they did an alignment the idiot lights were on...and when the mechanic "cleared" the light, it came on again...500 ft away from the shop...finally looked up online, you had to disconnect the battery to "reset" the calibration....go figure. My other issue i discovered after replacing the front brakes is a mild grinding noise, only when i go in reverse...not sure why it would do it...as everything appears to be away from any thing...odd...unless i am not seeing it right...oh well have fun mr fix it...
Twice I got the Stability Trak warning. But it went away by itself, the problem is that now the tire that is behind the driver's side when you brake something hard gets stuck, what can I do? I am from Mexico trying to communicate with you to know if you think it could be this failure of what you mention, no workshop can find the problem. I don't have any light on or abs, nothing, also, it is worth mentioning that if the tire is immobilized, then you step on the brake several times, it comes off, the tire moves forward again, but I want to not struggle any suggestions? I have already asked for enough money 😢, already changed front brake pads, rectified discs, purged all the tires and nothing, now they told me to change the brake pump to see if it is solved, because the brake was also sinking a lot, so they filled and purged, but it remained the same. It is malibu 2013, comes from the snow, if this little rust from below. I ask you please for an opinion. Thank you!
1 have a 2013 Malibu 3LT, and all 4 hub assemblies have been replaced. the 1st one went out at 40k miles. The last one just went out at 87k miles. My mechanic replaced all of the hub assemblies with lifetime warranty hub assemblies for about $360 each.
Hey my car stabilitytrac sensor comes on while I’m driving my 2015 Chevy Malibu. And my car stops and I have to recrank my car. Did that happen to you ? Did you replace both tracs in the back wheels? Or does all the wheels have them?
my car didnt stop, but it did drive weird. if there was any wheel spin, it would confuse the computer and it felt like it was de-fueling the engine. I replaced the hub that had the broken reluctor ring, thats it.
My wife 2014 samething. When her light comes on it kills the car. She has to restart it again. She also has the p0171 lean code😒 cleaning the maf sensor now. I wonder if i need this speed sensor also. She got the car pretty much new. Still had the factory tires on it lol. Funny that after she got new tires the service stabilitrak light starting coming on.
sweetthis confirmed my suspision. just changed the speed sensor at the wheel on our 2012 chevy cruze and it didnt go away and i said ill bet whatever the sensor looks at is broken or coming apart so i started searching and fnally found this video and i have no doubt this is my problem
I believe you can purchase Timken bearing hubs that are not made in China. They are a lot more expensive then what you purchased, but the bearings last a lot longer.
My 2013 Camaro LFX V6 just started doing this and with only 1650 miles on it!? It sat in the garage for over a year. I fired it up and started to drive normally but then 7 miles into the drive the engine started idling rough and then the "service stabilitrak" light came on with two other lights on the same side. I barely made it back home (5 miles) cuz the engine was running really rough unless i gave it gas. Why would this happen with such low miles?
I hope you put fuel stabilizer in the fuel! the rough idle could be bad fuel. check the wheel speed sensors for corrosion and the wires for mice damage. Also, check to make sure your battery is fully charged. leaving a car sit is harder on them than driving them. you should run the car through a complete heat cycle at least once a month.
@@dzlfreek yes I put in star tron fuel enzyme treatment with 5 gallons of shell non ethanol 89 octane gas. I installed a new bosch agm battery back in July and charged it periodically through the months. It started out running fine but then it hit all of a sudden after that 7 miles. Maybe it got to some bad gas due to phase separation inside the tank? I hope it didn't mess up the fuel injectors :-(
@@dzlfreek yes sir I believe it did turn off when I tapt the button but didn't make any difference. The engine was still running rough. I took out a passenger side spark plug and it was all sooty and black :-( another thing was I disconnected the maf sensor while the battery was still connected but plugged it back in before starting it. I did that in order to remove the top engine cover since my Injen CAI positions it to the top. Could just unplugging it make the ecm forget the maf sensor previous values? Engine definitely ran rich just based on the spark plug appearance. I may have to buy a whole new set. I took off the gas cap and smelled the gas in the tank and it didn't smell sour so I'm perplexed as to what caused all this 🤷♂️
@@dzlfreek i may have found the problem! The Injen cold air intake has a small hose that connects to the bigger canister hose that lies on top of the drivers side valve cover. Im guessing its for pcv/venting. Well over time that tube worked its way out and was creating a vacuum leak between the maf sensor and throttle body. Would that cause my rich fuel mixture thereby causing the plugs to foul out and then give the service stabilitrak error and rough idling?
@@Dan19133 it should be fine you just won't have traction control or anti lock brakes. the ECM will likely try to compensate by controlling the band width to the injectors so you may experience less performance from the engine. we drove ours for months before I got around to fixing it.
My Car Turn offf on me after filling out the Gas ⛽️ and i went get me a New Battery 🔋 so I replaced but when i drive it shows me that the Engine is Overheated , and my car Thermometer 🌡 keep go to High n then go back Low ,,, what should I do,?? I know it also has the Fuel Pump problem on my Truck 🛻 .. I ordered one but they sent the wrong one ☝🏽 so should i think is the problem cz I haven’t replaced it since the day they sent me the wrong Fuel pump . Or should the Oil be a problem of all that??
My stabilitrak light came on today after driving awhile & turning my car off I let it sit but when I went to start it again it was as if my battery died. After awhile I was able to start it & drive but then the lights started blinking on my dash & reading the stabilitrak & service power steering. Could it be the same problem?
could be. if you take it to a garage (not auto zone or pep boyz) that has the right diagnosis equipment, they can give you a better idea what the problem is.
Sounds like your battery!!!! Lights light up just fine just won’t crank!! Get battery tested before proceeding!! Also check air filter then regap and or change spark plugs
yes. you could also put the car on a jack stand at ride hight and tighten if the tire is in the way of fasteners. TBO, its been three years and Ive forgotten exactly how I did it.
Same thing happened to me on my 2011 Cadillac CTS. I live in Massachusetts so getting that hub out took hours. Ended up taking the whole knuckle out and beating the hub out from behind.
we had that issue as well and it would happen when the engine was "cold". Turned out to be a failed Evaporator Canister that was introducing raw fuel into the engine and overwhelming the fuel management. I chased that for over a year before relenting and taking it to a dealer for repair. Cost was about a grand. If this happens, it will likely destroy the catalytic converter which will cost about another grand for the dealer to replace. Good luck, I hope this helps.
get under the car and look at the hub bearings. there's a reluctor ring on the bearing. if its broken, then thats the one. OR you take it to a garage (not auto zone) and have the stabilitrac scanned. that will be able to isolate the wheel in question.
So what made you think it was the reluctor ring and not the sensor? I know some scan tools will tell you which wheel is giving the low signal or no signal.
I'm working on a 2011 Chevy Cruze and that has rear drum brakes. I was showing codes for both right and left rear speed sensors. I replaced both sensors and all the lights are still on. I'm pretty sure this is my problem that both rear wheel bearings are bad because this car has over 200,000 miles on it. And the wheel bearings do not feel good in it when I spin them
This worked for me.
Bought for $80 a set of 2 bearings. Installed both rear for $150 labor. Happy with the results. Much less noise inside of the car, and no lights anymore.
My currently has a very loud noise so I’m assuming that’s what it’s for? I’ve had the stablitrak light come on and off every once in awhile but never stays on
Easiest to follow car repair video ever, I hope he has more Malibu videos
unfortunately, the malibu was totaled New Years day. some jackwagon braked checked my wife and she ended up under the rear of a suburban. so no more vids on the Malibu.
@@dzlfreek saddest news I’ve heard all day. It was very helpful so I’ll miss your videos on it, but more importantly I hope she’s ok. God bless
Thank you sir. I’ve had my 2013 Chevy Malibu since new with about 102,000 miles now and the stabilitrac light has now made its presence known. I’m glad your video was the first to pop up. It is my Friday of my work week and now I have a fun project to complete. Again. Thank you for the informative video.
So you have more problems with it
Thank you! I'd give more but I'm doing this despite recovering from a rotator cuff surgery because I"m broke. But thisis the ifrst time I've given and it's because this is a fantastic, well done instructional video by a fellow "tree shade" mechanic! I posted a question just to clarify one part, but man, you do a great video!
thank you! Believe me, I know what its like to be broke.
I had a similar issue with my 2010 Chevy HHR . At about 4 years old, I had "SVC ABS, SVC Traction, etc". Dealer "fixed" it by replacing an electronic harness--eventually on both front wheels. Guess what, ~4 years later, the same warnings come back up. I didn't even bother getting it "fixed". Recently purchased a low mileage 2014 Malibu and the owner stated that the Stablitrak needed servicing, he had the part on order and was waiting for it to come in so that he could change it. He mentioned that little ring you had mentioned in the video. I'm guessing that that was the issue with my HHR and not some electronic harness. I'm filing this video for future reference because I know I'll probably need it! Thank you!
I did the same job on my 2013 Malibu-I live on a dirt road in Michigan-those hubs were a beast to get off!
I just replaced one of mine for the second time. I bought a "Hub Buster". You slam on that with an 8lb sledge, and it will persuadify that thing right off. Otherwise you are fighting a literal chemical weld. Another trick you can do is to completely remove the spindle and knock the hub out from the backside with a 5lb hammer and a nice thick punch, going round and round the circle.
Man you are criminally undersubbed. Keep up the good work!
Mannnnnnn You Was A Blessing..I Didnt Fix It Myself..But I Was Able To Go In There Talking Like I Knew What I Was Talking About..Lol..(AND DAMN IT U WAS RIGHT)Got It Fixed For The Low Low...(APPRECIATE YO INFO)
I’m glad I came across your video my 2015 Malibu has 205,000 miles on it. Thanks to your video I will have an idea of the diagnosis if I should come across this issue
I also have the same problem with my15 Malibu, you save me a bunch of hassle, can’t begin to thank you, certainly appreciate it, im now a new subscriber so keep them coming, looking forward to more 🙏
Have the same car just had a wheel bearing replaced. 64,000 miles. Love the car. Michigan car no rust.
80 yr old female ((they always see me coming!)). East coast central NY... 2017 Chev Express... 2nd offense in less than one year. Dropping it off tomorrow. 😟
Gee, you didn't have to transfer the wheel studs!! Now my 2012 Chevy Cruze has rear drum brakes...will be interesting to see what I run into when I change my hub. All 3 lights are on with low tire pressure showing on right rear.
How did you know it was the right rear wheel?
I was just about to ask the same question, while mine was erroring out. Then after shutting car off, moved ignition to on, then to power, then started and the error was gone. My 2013 Malibu was also having a power issue, but now it is cranking like normal.
@@strtrpnyou do anything to get it cranking again?
He said at 1:20 they took it to a mechanic in town & that’s where he got the info that it was a right rear wheel.
How'd you know which wheel?
Buy an abs code reader or go to autozone and get them to scan codes for free or go somewhere where they scan abs codes for free or cheap.
Correction, if you go to a autozone or advance and they have a good scanner that reads abs codes, they can scan the car and give you the code as to which hub is throwing the code. In my case, it was a C0050, right rear...
I was just there ...the code reader did not come up with anything
Thank you so much for an awesome tutorial!! Working thru chemo brain and you kept it simple for even myself to understand! Lol Soon as I pulled away from the garage, the ABS/traction control/ and the Brake Assist all came on and soon as I made first turn, the darn Stabiltrack light came on also! It doesn’t stay on constantly but it is still on and off. Again, thank you so much for ur helpful video!
Great video! I have been having several issues and took my 2016 Malibu to be serviced and stabilitrac was one and they couldn't/didn't fix it because it didn't show up when they ran diagnostics. So needless to say I was under the impression that it was fixed come to find out it wasn't. Ugh, I nearly had a heart attack when they told me to bring it back in and was told if the code doesn't come through they can't touch it. I don't know why they don't listen to the customer and at least look when it directly states on the dash. I should just do it myself.
I’m having too many issues w my 16 Chevy Malibu 😢
Thanks from South Carolina. It word have costed me 1500 bucks. You saved my azz big guy. Appreciate ya
Need to show the work you talk and have more video of u driving. Glad u fixed your car.
Thank you man I'm having that issue so now I know where to look on my malibu
JOSEPH CHAVEZ did this fix your issue because I’m having the same problem.
Man do I envy you and not having to deal with rust! Here on the east coast, if it's more than a year old, you are fighting!
When you put up the "moments later" thing, I thought you had my luck and was going to say that the fault light came back on! Lol
I no bro im in Ohio an mother father 6 months old an it's hell gettin off im jealous of him
Could you please tell us how did you know that was the right back side wheel bearing ?
Good job great to have people who’s willing to help!!!
Thx, brother. My wife Equinox popped up with this Stabili light. No engine light, so no code to pull. Just gotta figure out which wheel now.
Mine just came on the other day driving in snow and I only have just shy of 84,000 miles thanks for the video definitely looks like an easy fix hopefully mine comes off that easily living in Maine
As Scotty Kilmer would say GM junk. Mines only at 70k and just got my second check engine light on which I need to check out.
I currently have this problem on the same side. I got quoted $300. I am going to give this a go in the next few days... Thank you.
300, isn't a bad price to replace the hub. but then ima cheap bastard and if I can do it for 100, well 200 bucks is 200 bucks, you know what I'm saying?
I have the same issue with my 2015 Chevy Malibu LT but the difference is when you driving the stabilitrak signal flashing on dashboard and after a few minutes the engine start to loose power and stop. I have to restart the car to continue. Can you help me what’s going on please
Thanks for the video. How did you know which wheel hub needed to be replaced? I recently replaced the rear driver hub because the bearings would buzzing so it was obviously bad. My stabilitrak light is on and I have no idea how to figure out which hub could be bad. Thanks!
My car did that and it was the wheel bearing I changed it and havnt had a problem since. Weird thing is it was my right rear one as well but I just changed both of them cause they were rusted
Just fixed the left rear on my girlfriends 2013 chevy malibu, now a month later I’m getting the code C0040-f0, front right speed sensor erratic signal, is this the same fix? Just get the part again and throw it in?
check the wiring first. then see if you can visually inspect the reluctor ring on the wheel bearing. The computer is looking at the wheel speeds at all 4 corners to detect a speed differential. that activates traction control through the anti lock brakes. its possible the fix is going to be the same, but give the sensor and its harness a good look.
@@dzlfreek man I can’t thank you enough, from upstate New York, the rustiest crustiest place on earth for working on a damn car! Hopefully I can get enough day light to get it done before I gotta shovel to the wheel bearing 😂
@@twig1846 stay warm....I guess the shoveling would do that
get a thinkdiag 2. With this scan tool it has bidirectional controls and you can read the different data streams for wheel speed sensors etc.
Hi there boss I replaced both front but still have stability lights on mean I may have to replace rear as well
I would have it scanned instead of throwing parts at it. If its an anti-lock brake pump you may be better of removing the stable-trac light.
Had the same problem turns out there was a crack in the air intake hose attached closer to the engine there was a big crack in the hose causing all sorts of problems like Stabilitrak engine misfire car would shut off well idling
Did you have power reduction and dying out on you?
No rust haha wishful thinking here in Minnesota! However Ive learned a heavy hammer mixed with rusted parts is a great way to release frustration
anytime you can fix it yur self , You save tons of $$ and you can learn from it .. AWESOME Rick !!
I was raised to fix everything on a car, not take it to a shop. It was nice to see this video.🌵👍
Ami malibu primero se le prende el traking y luego de inmediato cambia a reducion de la potencia de el motor usted cree que esa falla la marque por lo mismos del tracks???
I have 2014 malibu and I have same problem been like that for few months just haven't fixed it
Great Video, Great Explanation, You Need More Videos 👍👍 Best UA-camr I've seen in awhile 😊
I’m also in Las Vegas. Can you recommend me your mechanic?
im in Texas now and the mechanic that did the scan passed away and the shop closed.
Can that cause your car to go into engine reduce mode??? It's like it won't go pass 10 miles per hour even if you floor it
that sounds like a powertrain control issue. Im not sure.
That's the problem I have. And the car will jerk real hard. When I come to a stop I have to keep my foot on the break and gas at the same time. I've had the service track light come on. And reduced engine light on my 15 Malibu. 2.5. a good friend of mines a master mechanic. And he told me it sounds like a timing chain issue. So I went and found a engine to swap out. I'm at 140,000 miles. And I found a 20,000 mile engine for 600$. I figured that would just as easy and probably cheaper then having it rebuilt..
Looks like I'll be dealing with this same problem, great video, not looking forward to pulling the spindle down, I've replaced many hubs, but this one looks like it's going to be a pain in the azz.😟
What if I have recently hit 100000 miles on my chevy malibu (2015) and while driving and switching lanes, the slippery road icon popped up and then then it says "reduced engine power" and said a maximum speed of 29mi allowed. I pulled over and restarted the car and was able to drive slower roads (still 50mi and hour) and it didn't pop up again. Shop is also quoting 600 based off just the engine power reduced notification.
I have a 2016 chevy malibu with the antilock brake problem and the stability Trac. But I have a warranty that covers the antilock brake system..
I had these both pop up 12,000 mile ago and no noises at all. Till about 450 miles ago ! I couldn’t find wich hub it was still can’t , no play , no noise jacked up off the ground , nothing unless driving ! It’s driving me nuts ! Also would anyone know how you would know if it was the abs drive inside internally ? The worst that it could be ? I get my brake pedal that once it downshifts from 2md the pedal goes down a bit more than it was before it downshifted . It’s odd as heck !
What a great video! Girlfriend's car has the same error, my reader doesn't do ABS codes so not sure which hub is causing the issue. Even if I have to replace all 4 I'm still in for less than $300 so sounds like a good spring project in a month or two! Thanks!
Good video I'm having the same problem and just came on tonight on my way home from work but I already have my wheel barrings/hub Replaced Back Tires...back in 2017.. Could in be I need to replace my front wheel bearings🤔🤔
Thanks for all you shared,so now I will try and found out how much some will charge me
How can you tell which one needs to be replaced? My 2013 is throwing the same stabilitrak and lights! No shaking or anything though
Someone with a scan tool that can read the antilock brake module can pinpoint the wheel. A visual inspection can as well but requires that you get under the car and in a position to see the wheel bearing, where the reluctor ring is. Look for segments missing from the reluctor ring
How you find out witch well was affected?
Thanks for this!! Update forthcoming!! I'm all about trying to fix it ourself
How can one identify which wheel is causing the issue?
thank you unfortunately I cant do that myself but alot of stuff I can thanks to youtube videos, just wondering about mine, 1st the psi light came on and wouldn't give pressure in tire, just dashes saying ----- L ? now all those other lights are on.. my sunroof is leaking down the drains in the floor board thought the wires might have gotten wet got to fix that 1st..:(
the sunroof probably has some sort of drain to dissipate water. look to see it there is one. its probably plugged with dirt. The TPMS isn't reading the sensor in the wheel and that will trip a check engine light as well as the stabilitrac light and probably the ABS light. I currently have a TPMS sensor thats bad and the dash is lit up like a Christmas tree!
please tell me that you swapped both sides of the axle, not just one side.
Replaced one side. If I could've replaced the reluctor ring instead of the whole cartridge I wouldve, since there wasn't anything wrong with the bearing. I didn't see the need to replace the other side. but Im sure you'll tell me how I screwed up. BTW, its been three years since I made that repair. Still works fine.
Are there 2 rear abs sensor/ speed sensor reluctor rings? Why not replace both? My light has been on since 36,000 miles
One on each unit bearing. The ring is part of the bearing.
My seal valve needs to be replaced... On my 2013 Malibu but other than that 114,000 miles 10 years and wheel bearing replacement...
Is it worth it to change the oil valve seal or sell the car?
if its a good car, keep it. valve seals are cheap compared to a new car.
@@dzlfreek I live in Miami and they scam and hike the prices just for the seal 😞 ...
Did this also cause tire sensor to go bad? My Malibu will not show my tire pressure in back right tire. And service track thing does pop up
probably not. sounds like a bad sensor in the wheel.
FWIW. My passenger front TPM sensor went bad this week. “Service tire pressure monitor system” is the warning that comes up on the cluster as well as the stabilitrac icon.
I just got this indicator in the cold weather as I was starting my car up. Seemed strange. I'll see if it's still there tomorrow.
What were the symptoms of the car? I have a Chevy Malibu 2013 and has the same issue… I put the scanner and gave me the code P0302
there weren't any symptoms, per se. But anti-lock brakes and stability control are off line. Depending on your governing jurisdiction, you may not pass emissions with all those lights on the dash
Thank you so very much... It was Exactly what I needed to know... You are the best
When the light came on did the car lose power and shake??
Mine just did this today! It is now parked!
@@jenniferrenninger8675 i changed my coils and it fixed it i hope that helps Amazon had them cheaper than the auto part stores
great vid! ill be doing this soon any tips on how to identify which bearing?? i do gotta do my brakes soon. i guess ill have to take a look at the bearing
I took it to a local garage that didn't charge anything to clear the code. the tech told me what sensor was bad. you could do a visual inspection of the reluctor wheel on the bearing to see if that was bad.
My daughters equinox just developed the same error but not with the ABS light (check engine and Stabili Trac warning).
I have the message come up but also says speed is limited to 25 mph and then the last time the message came on the brakes didn’t work properly. Is this the same issue as the relunter ring?
sounds like the car is in limp mode.
Hay bro how would you know which wheel Bering it is because my 2013 Malibu lt turn on today and I hit a heavy rain storm and it turn on
you can visually check the reluctor ring or you can have it scanned.
My ABS light isn’t on but my Service Stablitrack is and when I slow down has a little kick back at time. It will also cut off at stops and cranks right back up. Gets worse when driving more. Would this be it?
im not sure, but as I understand it (and I may be all wrong) stabilitrac uses the ABS to control wheel speed. The stall issue may not be related. The only way to know is to have the car scanned
How do I locate the censor that’s being faulty?? I don’t want to do this 4 times
you can visually see the reluctor ring on the bearing. or you can take it to a garage that has a scan tool capable of reading the traction control/anti-lock brakes.
This is a great video! I'm planning to do this work myself today. But quick question about putting things back together. When you say you have to have the weight of the vehicle on the control arms before tightening their bolts to avoiding tearing the bushings out. - placing the jack on the lower control arm and raising it slightly to confirm the weight is on it is enough? Or does the jack need to be moved again to the upport control arm in some way also before tightening it's bolts? Just want to be careful...
best practice is to have the vehicle at ride hight, with the weight of the vehicle on all fours, then tighten the bolts. although, the jack under the lower control arm you could probably get away with.
Controllers have timers built in then and software to check for inaccurate signals, missing or erratic signal. The sensor are of several type but mild steel with a magnet and coil of wire. The circuit is checked by a low voltage drop, resistance but only while moving, seeing an erratic signal for a period of time before it sets a hard code.
The ring is magnetized in a radial fashion. It can attract rust, iron fillings, ferric oxides or anything that a magnet will pick up. No hard code, safely inspect and clean the ring with compressed air, rag pushed with a split paint stick or a simple round plastic brush. Air gap is crucial but most likely won’t change. It chunks are missing or small sections of chipping damage as this ring rotated, then replace. Lay a sheet of paper over magnetic ring and sprinkle iron fillings on it. You will see a pattern develop of lines away from the center very close together. It would be nice if the ring was sold with epoxy so it could be replaced, but no one does even though it has no index and thin as a refrigerator magnet and mostly the materials. Look up torque online or size/grade of bolt, but like in the video always use a torque wrench not colored torque sticks at tire shops! Ever! Not only damage to studs but over tighten and few can break lugs bug nuts loose on the road. Shame, I hate those stupid sticks and sold as time saver! Who? The tech as 1/2” drive impacts are different, air pressure and trigger time. Torque wrench in tool box, use that!
DK, ASE master tech since 78
Thanks for sharing! Thanks to you my daughter can save lot's of money for her car.👍
My cheap scanner reads ABS codes. Just the wheel hub. Easy the change
This just popped up on my 2013 Malibu and I have 115147 miles what are the chances
"getting too fat and too old" LOL That's my line!! Actually my late grandmother would always tell me when i was a kid, "don't get old kid" as she complained about her arthritis...cheers! Well I was about to suggest you could have disconnected the car battery to "reset" the warning light...that's what I had to do to our Camry, when they did an alignment the idiot lights were on...and when the mechanic "cleared" the light, it came on again...500 ft away from the shop...finally looked up online, you had to disconnect the battery to "reset" the calibration....go figure.
My other issue i discovered after replacing the front brakes is a mild grinding noise, only when i go in reverse...not sure why it would do it...as everything appears to be away from any thing...odd...unless i am not seeing it right...oh well have fun mr fix it...
Twice I got the Stability Trak warning. But it went away by itself, the problem is that now the tire that is behind the driver's side when you brake something hard gets stuck, what can I do? I am from Mexico trying to communicate with you to know if you think it could be this failure of what you mention, no workshop can find the problem. I don't have any light on or abs, nothing, also, it is worth mentioning that if the tire is immobilized, then you step on the brake several times, it comes off, the tire moves forward again, but I want to not struggle any suggestions? I have already asked for enough money 😢, already changed front brake pads, rectified discs, purged all the tires and nothing, now they told me to change the brake pump to see if it is solved, because the brake was also sinking a lot, so they filled and purged, but it remained the same. It is malibu 2013, comes from the snow, if this little rust from below. I ask you please for an opinion. Thank you!
could be the. master cylinder or caliper. check the flexible rubber brake hoses to make sure they aren't deteriorating.
I have a 2013 Chevy Malibu and this light just came on my car. Do you think I could drive my car until I can get it fixed next month? Thank you
@@daphne6281 absolutely
1 have a 2013 Malibu 3LT, and all 4 hub assemblies have been replaced. the 1st one went out at 40k miles. The last one just went out at 87k miles. My mechanic replaced all of the hub assemblies with lifetime warranty hub assemblies for about $360 each.
Hey my car stabilitytrac sensor comes on while I’m driving my 2015 Chevy Malibu. And my car stops and I have to recrank my car. Did that happen to you ? Did you replace both tracs in the back wheels? Or does all the wheels have them?
my car didnt stop, but it did drive weird. if there was any wheel spin, it would confuse the computer and it felt like it was de-fueling the engine. I replaced the hub that had the broken reluctor ring, thats it.
My wife 2014 samething. When her light comes on it kills the car. She has to restart it again. She also has the p0171 lean code😒 cleaning the maf sensor now. I wonder if i need this speed sensor also. She got the car pretty much new. Still had the factory tires on it lol. Funny that after she got new tires the service stabilitrak light starting coming on.
sweetthis confirmed my suspision. just changed the speed sensor at the wheel on our 2012 chevy cruze and it didnt go away and i said ill bet whatever the sensor looks at is broken or coming apart so i started searching and fnally found this video and i have no doubt this is my problem
How did you know which one to change out? Or did you change all of them?
took it to a mechanic to clear the code and he told me where to look.
Hey buddy I'm out here in vegas to...
My buddy having a problem like that.
Did you have rpm problems to like you couldn't get past 3000 rpms
I didn't have that problem
Hey man, I’m catching your video after I swapped the bearing out. About how long did you drive before the sensor went off?
I believe you can purchase Timken bearing hubs that are not made in China. They are a lot more expensive then what you purchased, but the bearings last a lot longer.
My 2013 Camaro LFX V6 just started doing this and with only 1650 miles on it!? It sat in the garage for over a year. I fired it up and started to drive normally but then 7 miles into the drive the engine started idling rough and then the "service stabilitrak" light came on with two other lights on the same side. I barely made it back home (5 miles) cuz the engine was running really rough unless i gave it gas. Why would this happen with such low miles?
I hope you put fuel stabilizer in the fuel! the rough idle could be bad fuel. check the wheel speed sensors for corrosion and the wires for mice damage. Also, check to make sure your battery is fully charged. leaving a car sit is harder on them than driving them. you should run the car through a complete heat cycle at least once a month.
@@dzlfreek yes I put in star tron fuel enzyme treatment with 5 gallons of shell non ethanol 89 octane gas. I installed a new bosch agm battery back in July and charged it periodically through the months. It started out running fine but then it hit all of a sudden after that 7 miles. Maybe it got to some bad gas due to phase separation inside the tank? I hope it didn't mess up the fuel injectors :-(
@@ryanchristensen1799 can you turn traction control off?
@@dzlfreek yes sir I believe it did turn off when I tapt the button but didn't make any difference. The engine was still running rough. I took out a passenger side spark plug and it was all sooty and black :-( another thing was I disconnected the maf sensor while the battery was still connected but plugged it back in before starting it. I did that in order to remove the top engine cover since my Injen CAI positions it to the top. Could just unplugging it make the ecm forget the maf sensor previous values? Engine definitely ran rich just based on the spark plug appearance. I may have to buy a whole new set. I took off the gas cap and smelled the gas in the tank and it didn't smell sour so I'm perplexed as to what caused all this 🤷♂️
@@dzlfreek i may have found the problem! The Injen cold air intake has a small hose that connects to the bigger canister hose that lies on top of the drivers side valve cover. Im guessing its for pcv/venting. Well over time that tube worked its way out and was creating a vacuum leak between the maf sensor and throttle body. Would that cause my rich fuel mixture thereby causing the plugs to foul out and then give the service stabilitrak error and rough idling?
What period of time or how long can this be let go for until it has to be fixed?
Because I just had this happened, yet I'm unsure exactly which wheel hub bearing that this is on my car now and I have a trip I'm going on in 12 days?
@@Dan19133 it should be fine you just won't have traction control or anti lock brakes. the ECM will likely try to compensate by controlling the band width to the injectors so you may experience less performance from the engine. we drove ours for months before I got around to fixing it.
My Car Turn offf on me after filling out the Gas ⛽️ and i went get me a New Battery 🔋 so I replaced but when i drive it shows me that the Engine is Overheated , and my car Thermometer 🌡 keep go to High n then go back Low ,,, what should I do,?? I know it also has the Fuel Pump problem on my Truck 🛻 .. I ordered one but they sent the wrong one ☝🏽 so should i think is the problem cz I haven’t replaced it since the day they sent me the wrong Fuel pump . Or should the Oil be a problem of all that??
Your videos are so informative.
My stabilitrak light came on today after driving awhile & turning my car off I let it sit but when I went to start it again it was as if my battery died. After awhile I was able to start it & drive but then the lights started blinking on my dash & reading the stabilitrak & service power steering. Could it be the same problem?
could be. if you take it to a garage (not auto zone or pep boyz) that has the right diagnosis equipment, they can give you a better idea what the problem is.
Sounds like your battery!!!! Lights light up just fine just won’t crank!! Get battery tested before proceeding!! Also check air filter then regap and or change spark plugs
How long did you have to drive it before the light went off
not far
Nice job. How did you tighten things up with the weight of the car on the control arm? Did you put the tire on and then tighten?
yes. you could also put the car on a jack stand at ride hight and tighten if the tire is in the way of fasteners. TBO, its been three years and Ive forgotten exactly how I did it.
Helped a brotha out by liking and subscribing. Just because I know what he’s going through 👌🏼
Same thing happened to me on my 2011 Cadillac CTS. I live in Massachusetts so getting that hub out took hours. Ended up taking the whole knuckle out and beating the hub out from behind.
gotta love the rust belt
Would this cause your car to lose power and shut off?
we had that issue as well and it would happen when the engine was "cold". Turned out to be a failed Evaporator Canister that was introducing raw fuel into the engine and overwhelming the fuel management. I chased that for over a year before relenting and taking it to a dealer for repair. Cost was about a grand. If this happens, it will likely destroy the catalytic converter which will cost about another grand for the dealer to replace. Good luck, I hope this helps.
My camaro had the same issue but it was the abs sensors I’m sure I will have to do this in the future ..good job.. 👍
lets hope when the time comes we can find parts...
I would like to do this on my car but how do I know what wheel bearing it is?
get under the car and look at the hub bearings. there's a reluctor ring on the bearing. if its broken, then thats the one. OR you take it to a garage (not auto zone) and have the stabilitrac scanned. that will be able to isolate the wheel in question.
So what made you think it was the reluctor ring and not the sensor? I know some scan tools will tell you which wheel is giving the low signal or no signal.
I got under the car and inspected it. Its was visibly damaged.
@@dzlfreek ok. Mine are fed off the hub I think on my GMC 1500
So I have the same issue but my car shakes wen I turn it on
I’m helping ya brother. Mine just went after a heavy rain.
How do I know wat hub is the going bad
I'm working on a 2011 Chevy Cruze and that has rear drum brakes. I was showing codes for both right and left rear speed sensors. I replaced both sensors and all the lights are still on. I'm pretty sure this is my problem that both rear wheel bearings are bad because this car has over 200,000 miles on it. And the wheel bearings do not feel good in it when I spin them