I like the references to other painters. It is important to remember that even painting by yoursel,f all alone at home, you are part of a community that can help and advice when needed.
As someone who has essential tremors, breathing exercises and anchoring your hands against the mini and the table are all very important. Equally important for me is something as subtle as diet -- I'm a less effective painter in the early morning after I've downed two cups of coffee and the caffeine is coursing through my veins.
As someone with funky tendons in my arms that can cause my fingers to lock up, I appreciate you saying that people can find ways to deal with these shortcomings. I've watched many airbrushing videos and haven't seen anyone control the trigger with their thumb like I do. I don't seem to have any less control than I would using my index finder, but my thumb doesn't lock-up like my fingers sometimes do, so no risk of getting stuck with the airbursh trigger on GO!
I very much appreciate the emphasis on the muscle memory and brush control. It is such a fundamental aspect of craftsmanship. Many Japanese craft, music, and martial arts traditions put a heavy emphasis on the mindful repetition of specific hands-on techniques, and this is something that is crucial to achieving proficiency. As a personal example, I only just started working seriously with an airbrush a couple of years ago, and I know that I have not yet got the experience to really understand my best painting distance, but I know that the only way to get better is just to make sure that I make airbrushing a regularly practiced skill. I already now have an actual tactile feel for when the tool is underperforming due to clogging etc, and I can regularly disassemble and clean the airbrush comfortably because I have done it plenty of times as part of the initial learning curve, where I have also needed to become familiar with paint consistency for spraying. This is what folks recently have described as “deliberate practice”. I’m really glad to hear you talking about this!
Love the video! This year I've been essentially reverse highlighting large vehicles by very roughly drybrushing metallics all over the edges before using large pieces of sponge or a large brush to stipple the base coats/layers on afterwards, trying to avoid the edges (but not TOO hard, to give a nice gradient) giving very weathered vehicle armour panels in two steps, neither of which require any precision. I was inspired by the Sentinel in the Guard Army in 12 hours video! Also Goblin Green bases for life!
Its not very efficient, but one trick I sometimes use for edge highlighting is getting a very small coating of paint on the end of a toothpick and using that to apply the paint. It doesnt hold much but depending on the edge a round one can be twisted as you go to go a bit further before needing to get more paint on there. I'm partial to simple black bases in general (mostly board game pieces for my experience). I may try to add at least painted on tile texture maybe with a stamp to suggest something there at least but plan to black edge the pieces, and since some of the games they are from pay some attention to the color of the plastic will probably use that as a primary color of the game piece and then see if having the edge of the piece fully in that color around a black base looks good or an edge highlight of some type so there would effectively be a unit selection indicator like you would see in an RTS. I figure that will probably stand out well surrounded by black but will need to experiment a bit to see what pops best. Maybe for the stamp if I worry less about directly below the figure and have it more toward the edges it will be easier to apply and enhance the idea that they are casting a shadow on the floor? Maybe I'll tint the floor texture to the piece color as long as it will stand out distinctly from the unit itself. Currently working on heroquest furniture, but I'll look up some paint jobs on the other pieces and see if those ideas have been done and how they look.
I use my rims as a frame depending on the setting they're in. For my Blood Ravens they are stuck on a horrible muddy planet so I use Vallejo Refractive Green (70.890) as a frame with it's dark natural swampy muddy green, for my Necromunda and Arbites I use a very dark blue on top of a black to reflect the city night life and the blue from police vehicles. The rims are just a frame but they still fit into the narrative without taking any attention away from the model. I like it that way :)
The one thing I would suggest when free handing is, I try and use a pensil. You dont have to worry about making a mistake because it comes of pretty easy.
Peachy really sorry but I have to take issue with your incorrect statement of Brown being the correct base colour. You of all people should know that it's practically law that the correct colour always was and always will be Goblin Green. We just don't paint them that colour now because we're all not worthy enough anymore (and because GW stupidly don't make it). Aside from this minor faux pas, this is an excellent video on more advanced techniques and even for those of us whose talent isn't as good as we like to think, there is plenty to learn from here. Keep up the good work chaps!
It sounds reallly dumb, but if your hands shake, and no matter what you brace against or how little coffee you drink you can't get them to stop, wrap a big elastic band round your hand while holding your brush so that the tension of it means that the fine movements you make are made with a very slight resistance. Feels completely alien at first, but you should notice right away improved precision brush control.
I also like to paint my base rims brown, I just think the models look more cohesive on my shelf and on the table. I removed the first time GW switching to brown I went “oh well now I want all mine to look like that”.
Great paint job and technics to step up. I hope it will help the painters who will pick those models. I still don't understand the target of this game + minis with no application IG... Maybe I am missing some points but it really looks like a cross tabletop / video game cancelled mid-development.
Black rims are best (imo) for all models no matter what you are using them for, they act as a frame but also separate the model from the table so it looks less jarring if you have for example a mars base on snow. But there your models do what you want
Practice or time will not make you a better painter, “Practice makes perfect” is a lie. experimentation will make you better, try what works for many other painters. Eventually you will find methods you like better, and you will develop a list of skills that all come together to improve your painting. The only practice that makes perfect is perfect practice, otherwise you’re just repeating mistakes and feeling frustrated.
Did Peachy getting beaten up by Duncan in the GW car park made him reluctant to use the Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coat range and more AK interactive paints?
I like the references to other painters. It is important to remember that even painting by yoursel,f all alone at home, you are part of a community that can help and advice when needed.
Bang on! Cheers 😍👍
As someone who has essential tremors, breathing exercises and anchoring your hands against the mini and the table are all very important. Equally important for me is something as subtle as diet -- I'm a less effective painter in the early morning after I've downed two cups of coffee and the caffeine is coursing through my veins.
As someone with funky tendons in my arms that can cause my fingers to lock up, I appreciate you saying that people can find ways to deal with these shortcomings. I've watched many airbrushing videos and haven't seen anyone control the trigger with their thumb like I do. I don't seem to have any less control than I would using my index finder, but my thumb doesn't lock-up like my fingers sometimes do, so no risk of getting stuck with the airbursh trigger on GO!
Absolutely blowing my mind with the stroke of genius that is that leopard pattern technique
Oh my goodness! Free STLs! Thank you Painting Phase for showing off these!
I very much appreciate the emphasis on the muscle memory and brush control. It is such a fundamental aspect of craftsmanship. Many Japanese craft, music, and martial arts traditions put a heavy emphasis on the mindful repetition of specific hands-on techniques, and this is something that is crucial to achieving proficiency. As a personal example, I only just started working seriously with an airbrush a couple of years ago, and I know that I have not yet got the experience to really understand my best painting distance, but I know that the only way to get better is just to make sure that I make airbrushing a regularly practiced skill. I already now have an actual tactile feel for when the tool is underperforming due to clogging etc, and I can regularly disassemble and clean the airbrush comfortably because I have done it plenty of times as part of the initial learning curve, where I have also needed to become familiar with paint consistency for spraying. This is what folks recently have described as “deliberate practice”. I’m really glad to hear you talking about this!
Fantastic comment! We super appreciate this breakdown of that subject, and yeah it such an important aspect of painting.
Cheers
Peachy
Love the video! This year I've been essentially reverse highlighting large vehicles by very roughly drybrushing metallics all over the edges before using large pieces of sponge or a large brush to stipple the base coats/layers on afterwards, trying to avoid the edges (but not TOO hard, to give a nice gradient) giving very weathered vehicle armour panels in two steps, neither of which require any precision. I was inspired by the Sentinel in the Guard Army in 12 hours video!
Also Goblin Green bases for life!
😘👍
Its not very efficient, but one trick I sometimes use for edge highlighting is getting a very small coating of paint on the end of a toothpick and using that to apply the paint. It doesnt hold much but depending on the edge a round one can be twisted as you go to go a bit further before needing to get more paint on there.
I'm partial to simple black bases in general (mostly board game pieces for my experience). I may try to add at least painted on tile texture maybe with a stamp to suggest something there at least but plan to black edge the pieces, and since some of the games they are from pay some attention to the color of the plastic will probably use that as a primary color of the game piece and then see if having the edge of the piece fully in that color around a black base looks good or an edge highlight of some type so there would effectively be a unit selection indicator like you would see in an RTS. I figure that will probably stand out well surrounded by black but will need to experiment a bit to see what pops best. Maybe for the stamp if I worry less about directly below the figure and have it more toward the edges it will be easier to apply and enhance the idea that they are casting a shadow on the floor? Maybe I'll tint the floor texture to the piece color as long as it will stand out distinctly from the unit itself. Currently working on heroquest furniture, but I'll look up some paint jobs on the other pieces and see if those ideas have been done and how they look.
I use my rims as a frame depending on the setting they're in. For my Blood Ravens they are stuck on a horrible muddy planet so I use Vallejo Refractive Green (70.890) as a frame with it's dark natural swampy muddy green, for my Necromunda and Arbites I use a very dark blue on top of a black to reflect the city night life and the blue from police vehicles. The rims are just a frame but they still fit into the narrative without taking any attention away from the model. I like it that way :)
That’s an awesome way to theme the rims of your bases 😍👍
Good to see Peachy is on team brown base rim 😉💪🏼
Hahaha! This is the way!
I’m well aware of your strong allegiance to the brown rim 😂💪
And the Lord peachy said into his followers…
You guts produce such great content. 👏🏻
😘😘😘
Thanks!
😍👍
The little sponge brush was dope.
The one thing I would suggest when free handing is, I try and use a pensil. You dont have to worry about making a mistake because it comes of pretty easy.
Fantastic as usual, loving the festive beard too ;-)
Brilliant video! I really loved the way you demonstrated all the techniques. Thank you for more excellent tips.
Great episode, love the way non of this is overbearing, super acheivable and inspiring
Great rim job 👌
This was a great video!
Would love to see something on how to use a enit highlight.... as I have no idea how to utilize it when I've done one.
Peachy’s real secret weapon is fit a Sharpe reference in with minimal prompting.
Great video, Peach!
Peachy really sorry but I have to take issue with your incorrect statement of Brown being the correct base colour. You of all people should know that it's practically law that the correct colour always was and always will be Goblin Green. We just don't paint them that colour now because we're all not worthy enough anymore (and because GW stupidly don't make it).
Aside from this minor faux pas, this is an excellent video on more advanced techniques and even for those of us whose talent isn't as good as we like to think, there is plenty to learn from here. Keep up the good work chaps!
😂😂😂 in rare moment on the internet, I see your reason and fully back such logical ad factual thought processes, consider me wrong 😆👍
@@thepaintingphase it's all good, we all make mistakes 😆, I once tried painting wraithbone over a black undercoat. Never again. 😂😄
i was about to comment the same thing! love live Goblin green ( totally havent been tempted by warcolours "nostalgoa 84" goblin green
Not sure what 'thick' milk is, though I would hope cream rather than turned 🤣, the common opinion though is for a consistency like skimmed milk 👍
It sounds reallly dumb, but if your hands shake, and no matter what you brace against or how little coffee you drink you can't get them to stop, wrap a big elastic band round your hand while holding your brush so that the tension of it means that the fine movements you make are made with a very slight resistance. Feels completely alien at first, but you should notice right away improved precision brush control.
What brilliant advice! Well said Callum and thanks for your input - Geoff
Formal request for Patrick's beard to read all ad spots going forward.
My beard has its own agent now, right diva... 🧔
The face of the female cleric at 10:52 IS FANTASTIC, I would pay $2o for that character, is she for sale??
The right color for a rim base is...alternating...and uneven thickness...red...then yellow...then puce.
Take that, brown v black rim base painters.
Great video ,good tips thank you peachy
🤘 you are most welcome
So you got the basics down, where do you go now!
I suppose "What would Sugs do?" would not be the best answer here?
Another great video! If I ever get to the next level, I’ll use all these tips 😅
Fantastic! Well it won’t be going anywhere should you need it
I also like to paint my base rims brown, I just think the models look more cohesive on my shelf and on the table. I removed the first time GW switching to brown I went “oh well now I want all mine to look like that”.
😂👍 I fell into that trap…..didn’t help that it was my job for a decade or so
Great paint job and technics to step up. I hope it will help the painters who will pick those models. I still don't understand the target of this game + minis with no application IG... Maybe I am missing some points but it really looks like a cross tabletop / video game cancelled mid-development.
Black rims are best (imo) for all models no matter what you are using them for, they act as a frame but also separate the model from the table so it looks less jarring if you have for example a mars base on snow. But there your models do what you want
Cool
Great video, but I feel like there could have been more visual aids during the glazing section
Man, this is one of the best tutorials I have watched. Just a million great tips, all diamond, no rough.
Amazing!!! Glad it helped! 😍👍
Turnips? What the what peachy 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Practice or time will not make you a better painter, “Practice makes perfect” is a lie. experimentation will make you better, try what works for many other painters. Eventually you will find methods you like better, and you will develop a list of skills that all come together to improve your painting. The only practice that makes perfect is perfect practice, otherwise you’re just repeating mistakes and feeling frustrated.
missed a cheeky 'rimjob' pun, i'm quite dissapointed!
Lovely video though!
second
Did Peachy getting beaten up by Duncan in the GW car park made him reluctant to use the Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coat range and more AK interactive paints?
First comment, get in!
Non-black rims?!?! Heretic!
Weird! A UA-camr with a normal accent.
🤣
Great video, except the nonsens about rimcolours. Of course the only correct colour for that is black. 😉
Happy painting
😂😂😂 I mean I even went black rims in this vid 🤷♂️
gggrrrrrrrrr...slap chop is a joke meme not a method. weve been drybrushing forever. gggggrrrrrrrr