72' C10: Installing Front Suspension CPP 5/7" Drop
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- In this episode we get the front suspension installed on the 1972 C10 and get the chassis ready to go back on all 4 tires again! - Barn Built Fabrications
Parts List
CPP 3/5 drop kit
www.cjponypart...
CPP 2-1/2” drop spindles
www.cjponypart...
CPP shock braces
www.cjponypart...
CPP tubular upper control arms
www.cjponypart...
ALL OTHER PARTS USED FOR FRONT SUSPENSION ARE FACTORY REPLACEMENT PARTS THAT CAN BE FOUND ONLINE OR AT ANY PARTS STORE.
#budgetrestoration #chevyc10 #classicperformanceproducts #cpp #Tubularcontrolarms #BarnBuiltFabrications
Coming along nicely.
Nice video, greetings from Norway!
Thank you, it is crazy to think of the reach you have with UA-cam!
A couple of things….1 I think your upper control arm will need alignment shims where you put the spacers. Maybe you should get some alignment shims and replace the spacers. ?? 2 I’m not sure but when your suspension moves up/down is it going to hit your sway bar? Something does seem right to me. I’m not trying to blow up your build but those 2 things don’t seem right. I’ll keep watching because I’m getting ready to do what you have done only using air bags. Keep at it!
Good questions/comments, I am sure that the upper control arms will need shims for sure. As it sits it is not aligned and when I get the weight of the engine/body back on I will have a baseline to go off of to see how much it needs to come out plus I will get it professionally aligned. The reason I chose to go with the spacer that I did is because I didn't want to end up with 12 shims stacked all said and done. As for the sway bar/tie rod interference I was wondering that at first myself but I don't think it will be an issue as the tire rod end is attached to the lower control arms so the LCA and tie rod ends should have the same travel, maintaining their distance from each other. The sway bar is designed to twist up and down in the greased rubber bushings. Time will tell for sure though and if need be I will make adjustments at that point. Don't worry about the questions I take no offence at all. I by no means know it all and any questions or ideas from viewers will only make me more knowledgeable in the long run. Thank you for watching and your support! -Chris
@@BarnBuiltFabrications ya, I would probably pull the sway bar out till you get her on rubber. It sucks when shit gets bent or bound up from the settling of weight. Nice build man.
yeah, those spacers on the upper arm is where your alignment man adjusts the toe-in with the proper number of shims. I believe
Parts list?
I added links to the parts in the description. I will be doing the same for the rear suspension as well as the C-Notch. Hope it helps!
Looks like your tie rod ends should be placed underneath the spindle, not on top . Grease fitting should face the ground,
The knuckles/tie rod end are a tapered fit and can only fit one way. some vehicles are top mounted and others bottom. My Black 2007 F150 that I showed in another video is also a top mounted design.
In my opinion that GM IFS is underapriciated in the hot rod and resto mod world. I’m working on from a G20 into a 50 international metro. Much cheaper and easier then a mustang 2.
Sounds like a sweet build! I'm really into international stuff as its more unique than the main stream stuff.