SRT Grand Cherokee Clunks Between Shifts Transfer Case & Diff Fluid to Repair Full Detail
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- 3 quarts of 75/90 Synthetic gear oil with LSD additive built in to split between both the front and rear diffs.
2 quarts of ATF-4 compatible fluid to meet Mopar spec.
Diff drain and fill plugs torque to 26 foot pounds.
Thread sealing tape or paste for transfer case drain and fill plugs.
8mm Allen socket and ratchet.
Why dont you use for the rear diff the ELSD special additive? It must be mandatory for your model.
Per the Royal Purple website product finder by model narrowed all the way down to the SRT that there oil doesn't need any further additives so I trust that.
@@PNW_Car_Mods , actually you must stick to what the maintenance manual says. It is up to you, it is your car, but be aware that all other models need it.
@@ivaningbg-73 the limited slip additive is already in the oil. I don't think there is a synthetic gear oil out there that DOESN'T have limited slip additives already in the oil. I'm not saying you are wrong but I'm not saying my diff is going to blow up either. It works perfectly.
@@PNW_Car_Mods ,I never spoke about any blow ups, didnt I? I hear it for the first time that the speciall ELSD additive is in the oil already and I wish you a lot of miles without any troubles.
@@ivaningbg-73 I suspect you are not from around the way? You came into my video and told me I was doing something wrong without doing any research. You said I MUST do it a certain way. I simply responded to you telling the straight up knowledge that I have. That is all. Also not having an additive in a limited slip is not a cause for future failure. It will only cause annoyance in the way the vehicle drives. Usually from a diff that chatters. Good luck out there and thanks for stopping by.
I do trans and diff the same fill until drip out had no problems. And yes pay attention to plug placement before take off👍
Great video. I own a 2015 Summit that' giving me a service 4WD message. Dealer wanted to replace Transfer Case. Turns out it was the transfer case control module. Thanks to Google and UA-camrs like yourself. Keep up the good work.
I hear ya. There are several reports of these transfer cases being replaced when they just needed new oil.
I am happy to report that after driving this thing 3 days in 96 degree weather that this 100% fixed the clunking feeling. NO MORE BACK MASSAGES!
Nice! I have the klunk klunk sound from the rear of the Car . What might that be?
@@andrehansen585 Hard to say for sure without actually being there.
What about klunking upon accelerating upto 80 miles?
We're these clunking like old floors creaking or just similar to a suspension clunk? Changing my fluid fixed the clunk when turning the steering wheel but i have an annoying creak that's not the motor mounts and the sound is coming from the Tcase/transmission area that i can tell(closer to tcase but hard to pinpoint when in a driveway
@@pjvmusic In our case it wasn't so much a sound but a feel if that makes sense. When at operating temperature it felt like a kid was in the backseat kicking the front seats at each shift. Now that is completely gone.
I don't even own a jeep but still enjoyed the video - looking forward to more CVPI content :)
Trust me, I watch far more youtube that I create. I've watched countless videos on stuff I don't own or even have natural interest in lol.
If anyone's interested the manufacturer listed capacities are dependent on transfer case and diff models fitted to the car.
Transfer Case:
MP2010 .528 QT
MP3010 1.47 QT
MP3023 2.00 QT
Diffs:
Fr: 195FIA 1.0QT
Rr: 195RIA 1.0QT
Rr: 230RIA W/ ELSD 1.4QT
Rr: 230RIA W/O ELSD 1.2QT
But this was a MP3010 and 2 QT came out of it????
Great video thank you 🙏 My owner manuel say 75w140 for the front and rear diff, am confused now 😬
like I said in the video. use whatever brand you like but go to the brands website and use their oil finder by vehicle. Yes, the numbers may be slightly different but the oil manufacturers aren't out to blow your stuff up.
If you leave the fill plug in just hand tight will drain much slower no mess
Excellent tip. Thank you!
Thank you Sir for this video.
Most welcome!
You should always loosen up the fill plug first just in case you can’t get it loose after you’ve already drained the oil otherwise you’d be sol trying to fill it back up
Solid point! That is always a good idea. I have ways around that problem and more tools than the average owner so it's something I just don't think about. Thanks for bringing it up.
Just watched your helpful video as I'm doing this job, plus the autobox fluid and filter, this weekend.
I'm confused as to why you appear to be using diff oil with LSD additive in the front diff? Unless our 2017 GC SRT is different, it's only the rear diff that is limited slip and needs the additive. This is probably why the rear diff oil was much blacker because of clutch material from the LSD mechanism which is not present in the front diff. We've bought the two recommended Mopar oils with the additive already included for the rear diff but no additive for the front diff. I don't know how much difference it makes to an ordinary open diff if LSD additive is added but it's presumably not ideal?
Secondly, the official Jeep workshop manual for the 2014 - 2017 GC SRT states that the transfer box should be "filled to bottom edge of the fill plug hole". There is therefore no need to measure out any particular quantity of ATF.
Richard
Thanks for the comment Richard. Don't take this the wrong way but you sound like a very diligent hyper focused owner that is set on making sure you do the job 100%. Not a bad thing, but as a universal mechanic it can be kind of tedious when these scenarios are not always set in stone. There is a lot of misunderstanding IMO about LSDs and limited slip additives and whether it's going to make a differential blow up or lock up or seize or anything of the sort. The reality of it is LSD additives are actually just a friction reducer and they are simply there to reduce friction in the differential clutch packs to provide a smooth driving experience. The OEMs don't want anyone complaining about chattering or noises when going around a corner. Conversely running the additive in an open differential won't do or hurt anything. There's nothing in there to hurt but gear teeth and bearings. Generally speaking all non OEM oil brands synthetic gear oils come with the additive already in the oil. This takes the guesswork out of purchasing most of these oils. I'm not a fan of relying on dealers or OEMs for lubricants and fluids but many owners are which is totally fine. As far as the transfer case thing I think there is no less than 1k forum threads out there on jeep dodge forums on the topic of t case fluid quantity. I've heard several different theories on this. That being said I took the stance of this thing was delivered with a certain quantity of fluid in it that has worked perfectly for 50k miles I see no reason to alter that for myself. That being said that debate went in my head and right back out of it after getting this job done so I don't recall the arguments for or against the different levels. My wife is just happy this thing is back to being smooth as silk.
@@PNW_Car_Mods I'm guessing that the situation is different here in the UK where LSD's are still very rare. Virtually all the synthetic diff oils in the motor stores or online do not contain the LSD additive, presumably because of the extra cost this adds to the product. We used the Mopar oil with LSD additive, which was expensive for the rear diff, and a non-OEM diff oil for the front diff which does not contain the friction modifier and was half the price.
We filled the transfer box to the bottom of the level plug hole as specified in the workshop manual and it took 1800 mls of ATF.
We left the Jeep on our lift overnight with the gearbox sump removed to allow it to continue to drain and will bolt on the new sump and filter today and then refill. 🙂
@richardsutton01 Thanks for the clarification. It's easy to forget that youtube viewers are worldwide.
Nice video gonna try this hope the clunk goes away
Good luck. This absolutely resolved ours. I will now probably change it every other year whether it needs it.
@@PNW_Car_Mods hey thanks for the reply I’m currently at my local shop getting the transfer case and diff fluids changed since I did just buy this jeep. Hope it fixes it
@@chakas03 Definitely report back and it may take a few hundred miles and some heat cycles to smooth back out.
@@PNW_Car_Mods just read your comment, unfortunately I still feel slight thud underneath my floor board but I will drive it a bit more and update so far 9 miles since fluid changed. 1/16/24
@@chakas03 How many miles on this rig?
I removed the “do not open” plug on accident but nothing seemed to happened car drives fine do you think it’s okay or should I get it looked at ?
Sorry for the late reply. I am honestly not sure. I'm sure with a good google searching you will know if there is anything to worry about. If you already figured it out what did you come up with?
@@PNW_Car_Mods not to much info on the web about it lol can’t even find the “linkage” part if I tried but nothing has happened yet no service lights or grinding so I think I’m in the clear !!
What exhaust are you running ?
Suitcase delete with a 3" X pipe in it's place. All stock otherwise.
I thought you were suppose to use 75-80 on jeep grand Cherokee srt
I can't say I've ever even heard of 75-80? is that a typo? I used whatever was in the oil selector recommendations by make and model on Royal Purples website.
24:60 Torque Spec
That sauce was due
No doubt about it. Just happy it's fixed and I don't have to play the dealership game.
Yeah, I try that and the wind starts blowing 25 kts spraying lube oil all over and not straight down LOL
I had that happen once with a pitch black diesel oil change on the F350. Thankfully it was on the old driveway so I didn't really care about the stains lol.
What battery ratchet is that..?
AC Delco Tools from Amazon. They have held up incredibly well. I recommend just getting the 3/8s drive. The 1/4 unit is the exact same size dimensionally so it doesn't really make sense. Save money and just use an adapter if you want to run 1/4 drive sockets. I think the pair with a charger and one battery was around 130 but that was like 4 years ago.
That sounds like an awesome deal. I have the high speed m12 Milwaukee & it's unbelievably great. As in if it broke today, I would grab another one that same day. The one you have looks like it's strong and affordable. 👍
@@garycasper2929 We have thousands of dollars in M18 Fuel stuff but surprisingly I've never found the need to dive into the M12 world lol. No real reason for other than cost vs use. I'm impressed by these AC Delcos and they get ran pretty hard. thanks for checking us out.
No way, this transfer / diff fluid service video reminds me of the second video of your I ever watched, when you did it on your Ridgeline.
How long ago was that? Lol
Hey, do you know anything about chest freezers, like how to manually defrost them?
-Chuck
My favorite defrost is to unplug and leave the door open. Wash out with a hot bucket of water. replug and refreeze. and yes I remember that exact comment you made lol you were very specific