I am 72 year old mechanic haven't worked in a shop for 2 years , but now I watch Rain man Rays repairs , wrenching with Kenny ,Jimmy making it work , South Main auto , Pine Hollow auto diag , Phillip Baily that have daily video's in the morning , then I take a nap in my easy chair in my garage with my show truck and my mustang ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
I’m 70. Retired 8 years. I enjoy watching what my worn out body won’t let me do anymore. I tinker, visit my old shop friends, hang out in my shop and love naps too. I do help out when those young 40 and under techs need consult 80’s and older cars too.
Nick's Garage Relive the old muscle car days. Hemi's, 440 6 packs are his passion, but tackles any motor. I believe he's almost 70. Makes those motors scream on the dyno
@@oldbiker9739 Man we could sure name a long list of obsolete tools and procedures‼️ Choke angle gauge , replace diodes, even a timing light, mixture control solenoid , Choke pull off (actually any carburetor part) Coffees done. Gotta call grandson and plan for a nap after a few chores. Enjoy your day.
The best part of Ivan's repairs is, that it's just like us working on our own vehicles. No fancy lifts, and doesn't have $100,000 in over priced tools. You gotta love it.
Turned 220,000 miles on my 2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo X. Besides main fluid changes every 50,000 miles, one steering rack into my repairs. Been a great vehicle for me.
I wonder how many people were scammed across the country over this where some mechanic said it's a transmission..when it was this...???....AWESOME REPAIR...
Mechanic just charged me 2500 to replace the engine mounts and the front drivetrain for this exact issue, then said the problem isn't fixed so replacing the transfer case assembly is gonna be another 2 grand on top of that. I told him no thanks and will now go with this solution and am doing it myself. I feel like I got ripped off so hard.
My dealership is currently saying the transfer case needs to be replaced because they don’t replace internal parts… My warranty refuses to cover unless it’s taken apart and diagnosed and a location of the failure is found. Long story short, it has been a nightmare!!
I love the fact that you actually repaired the transfer case rather than tell your customer go get a new or rebuilt one for thousands of dollars. Many mechanics now just choose that lazy way out and doesn't really care about the customers exorbitant bill at the end. Kudos to you bro, job well done.
UA-cam saves me and my friends a fortune. I.ve used your vids for many problems. 2 Tips for you. I work on my block paving drive, so when changing oil I put pan inside of a 1mtr childs sand pit, no more spills. Also, when working on deep allen or star bolts, I mark the the first one with Tipex so I can see they gone deep enough.
A friend of mine and I both had 79k Jeep Cherokee’s. Both had the popping transfer case problem. At first I thought the chain was skipping, but figured that would be impossible. We took the transfer cases apart and could see that the problem was not that the chain was skipping, which would be impossible. What was happening was as the chain was loose as it tried to climb the tooth it would bind up, and then ultimately let go, causing the snapping sound as the chain finally went into its tooth on the drive sprocket.
I just got done replacing the chain in my 2013 Laredo and the carrier bearing bolts were so locked in with thread sealer that I thought I was going to snap mine off like you did yours. I ended up using a propane torch to heat up both bolts and it burnt all the thread sealer off of them and they came out real easy with a 1/2" ratchet & socket. I used the torch also on the front & rear bolts for the drive shaft and it worked wonders. Great video and really good explanation of what you were doin the whole time
Hello car diagnostician IVAN! You had a good example video with the volvo crankshaft position sensor, the error was caused by a bad mass between the gearbox engine and the body. I also helped my neighbor with a 1999 C70 volvo, but this time the camshaft position sensor signal was faulty. The neighbor bought a new sensor for 25 euros and today the car started .I was already preparing to clean all mass connections according to your video, but this time there was no need to do it.
Hi Ivan, your electronic diagnostic skills are second to none, hands down. We all learned A LOT from you over the years. On the auto transmission service though I would have loved you having a filter kit ready. Taking off the pan, cleaning the magnet, replace the filter and gasket. THEN fill your first 4 quarts, identify the return line that's coming back from the cooler and undo at the trans. Start engine for 3-5 secs and measure how much more old black fluid came out. Crawl back underneath, replace the amount with fresh fluid, until you see fresh fluid coming out. Usually, you'll need 12 quarts for a 9 quarts system, because there will be some mixing happening in the torque converter. But you have to buy 3x 4 quarts containers anyway, so you might as well using them. Greetings from Down Under!
Those engineers really dropped the ball on those. You would think they could have incorporated some timing marks, tensioners, and phasers in there somewhere. Good job and video Ivan.
LOL Phasers controlled by oil pressure from the engine into the transfer case. I think engineers should be forced to work as mechanics for a few years before they get a degree. Maybe then they wouldn't build some of the crap they do.
We bought my wife a new GC Overland in 2018. it's never had anything done except fluids and filters. Despite what Scotty says/spits, these are great cars. And they drive surprisingly well too.
My last one was just fine and I traded it in on a new one when it had 220,000 miles on it. Nothing but oil changes, tires, brakes, and batteries were needed. My current Grand Cherokee is at 140,000 miles and so far has been the same---just normal maintenance stuff. These are great vehicles.
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 188xxx. Replaced since bought. Motor mounts Both sides front half shafts/CV joint failure. Both front brake hubs,calipers,brakes. Oil filter housing craked. TWO thermostats Both rear brake hubs/calipers Radiator and cooling fan Water pump (second thermostat) Transfer cases drained,serviced Oil filter and serviced every 3000 miles. Oh, it also has had FOUR frontal accidents and FOUR rearended accidents... Replacement costs prohibit getting rid of it.
This is like the"The Learning Channel"...I agree with Ivan's comment about "buying your own scanner" or the like if you are a DIYer....I had TPMS issues and could only solve using a inexpensive code scanner and Launch i-TPMS tool(works with cell phone)....saved me $$$
Loved that jack and air hammer trick. As for your carrier bolts if bolts are pulling rust through captive nuts use a super straw kit on a can of spray grease. I have found spray grease better than oils for pulling rusty bolts through threads. The super straw can usually be directed inside the box section.
Just last week I overshot a drain pain and made a mess on my garage floor. Felt pretty stupid but glad to see that someone with a lot more experience can do the same thing. Also, I'm always careful to be sure I can get out the fill plug before taking out the drain plug. I'm feeling pretty smart after watching Ivan make some goofs.
In the early 70's Chevy/GMC went to full time 4wd.Constant chain stretch and bad tire wear on the front tires. When the chain was replaced it was recommended to install locking hubs on the front axle. This would save the wear on the transfer case chain.
I'd just add how important it is that all four tires have the same circumference dimensions as that will cause problems if they are different. Good repair!
For a change, it's nice to see a purely mechanical job, Ivan 🙂 Great job and great condition on that Grand Cherokee! If this was a European front wheel drive car, I would say immediately it's the CV joint 🙂
Good job! I change fluids in the three vehicles here every two to three years. Engine oil, engine coolant and brake fluid are at the top of the list. Engine oil and filter every 6 months or 3000 miles. Oil is cheap! Engines are expensive! Good video Ivan.
@@thk7513 yep been there done that! What’s the first thing you do when you bring the customers car in to the shop? Always roll down the driver’s side window in case you lock the keys inside. Yep.
@@rogerstlaurent8704 Can't lock the key in my Mercedes, it won't allow you to. In fact, on my dads old 1965 Mercedes, I remember it had a sequence on the drivers door which, if you pressed the locking button down and you closed the door, the button popped straight back up! You could only lock it from the outside with the key! (You could be super picky and say what if you locked it from the passenger side!) Not new tech.
I replaced several transfer case chains back in the 70s when they first started using the chain driven transfer cases. Originally they used 90 W gear lube like the gear driven cases used. In the winter that gear lube is nearly solid and even in warm weather it was too thick to properly lubricate the chain. I did several 1973 and 1974 models because the dealer I worked for could buy them cheap at vehicle auctions. By 1975 or 1976 the recommended lubricant was changed to Automatic transmission fluid on automatic transmission models and 10 weight oil behind manual transmissions. In those days, the case was cast iron and the transfer case had to b removed to replace the chain.
Nice diagnosis and fluids recommendations. For vehicles with higher mileage on them and never having transmission fluid changes, many shops suggest never flush the trans fluid as it will clear out all of the old fluid which can cause clutch issues. They all say leave it or just replace a little at a time due to the friction additives etc. in new fluids, that can play havoc with moving parts and clutches. Of course, the best practice is to change the fluids how it should be done in the real world, every 25,000 to 30,000 miles, vs. what the manual says. Some manuals are saying every 100,000 ! We all know that is irresponsible. Sorry about those twisted off bolts....there's always something. WD-40 seems to be a requirement before any sockets or wrenches turn fasteners. Way to be Ivan.
That Max Life Fluid says it is compatible with everything. But I would not put it in just anything. Some transmissions seem to need very specific formulations to continue working correctly. That first fluid fill from the factory made it 200k miles, I would have definitely put that same fluid back in this truck and not used some "one-size" fits all fluid. But that's just me. My 2002 Montero Sport takes SP-III fluid and that is all it gets. 158k so far and no issues.
I use the Max Life fairly often, never had any issues. On the other hand , My Toyotas and others that I service only get Toyota WS. I made the mistake one time getting Amsoil signature, which probably is great stuff, but it is the absolute worst smelling atf ever made. I used it in an older Higjlander once and My garage stunk for a week. I still have 3.5 gallons I’d give anyone a good deal on! 😅😅
@@brianw8963I was thinking about trying Amsoil signature in one of my vehicles. Didn't know it smelled bad! Good idea not to spill it, I guess. If you're close I'd take it off your hands.
Had same symptom with old AWD Exploder (BW4410 w/ viscous coupling) few months back (+300kmi). Sounded like a jackhammer accelerating from a stop. Difference in chain length near immensurable but driving perfect with the new one. As for what caused the stretch, front prop shaft had been binding. Replaced just the rearward joint only for the forward U-joint yolk to sheer a week later. And that took out the trans pan, damaging the valve body and took out a chunk of the bellhousing. Not my first rodeo into the T-case, the VC had been replaced ~5 years prior. Already dealt with the crossmember's corroded bolts back then. Even better the chain is no longer mfg. Out of stock all over and no aftermarket either. But ebay to the rescue, managed to score the very last one.
More common on the F-150's but another cause could be the grease on the driveshaft slip-yolk has dried up. That should always be inspected first before tearing into the T-case. Symptom/sound is nearly identical.
As a general rule, I break torque by hand to get a sense of whether I'm going to break the bolt or not. I had one bolt that needed to come out in one piece if at all possible. But it looked very, very angry. There was a lot of back and forth with heat and PB Blaster before I even tried. Then it was gental back and forth to break corrosion and start opening it up to get more heat and PB Blaster in. Eventually you get good penetration and break the corrosion up enough to zip it out. But I had one impossible, not just angry, bolt. It was a bolt holding a step onto an airplane. Imagine a hard landing and that step hitting the runway and all the damage it would do being attached to the fuselage. It was a steel step but attached with an aluminum bolt. So the bolt would shear first and cause the step to break away before damaging the fuselage. You can imagine all of the dissimilar metal corrosion between the steel bushing in the step and aluminum bolt. They were never coming apart. I managed to get a sawzall between the step and fuselage and cut it off. Then I had to jerryrig it in a drill press to drill out what was left of the aluminum bolt. Fun times.
Well i was in the mechanics trade for 35+ years and believe me you will run across bolts/threads that no amount of penetrant nor heat works. Same procedure as you, hand first. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. I had a particular component that was 3/4 Inch NF thread. Most times penetrant and heat worked BUT every once in a while, you would run across one where it would never move, or the threads pile up if it did. They were usually threaded in about 2 Inches (threaded rod) because it was an adjustment for another component. Eight per machine that came in the shop. Can't use an impact on them anyways nor would i want too. If something is going to break, an impact will do it quick, and hand pressure is best like you pointed out. Then there are steel threads into aluminum that can be a PIA too. Had plenty of those as well.
Nice to get a non head scratcher for a change. Put some Bernzomatic action on those loctited fasteners, it makes a big difference. The Dodge truck u- joint bolts are loctited too. The heat will break the bond. A little patience, heat and lube would have worked those carrier bolts out, NDR. Have a great Day Ivan.👍👍🇺🇸
wow way to go jeep that is truly nice not having to remove the transfer case i just replaced my 2003 chevy suburbans transfer case due to the pump eating the case and now im having a similar problem on my 2006 v8 explorer unfortunately its the front differential as 3:55 gears have been discontinued by ford so i have to get aftermarket parts as for some reason they cost more than from ford directly when it comes to gear related parts
For the fill plug next to the oil pan you can buy a set of hex wrenches that have a shorter head on them for accessing in cramped quarters like that. OR like many of the other mechanics where i worked including me, shorten a regular length one whose corners had been worn after excessive use. Always had a few of the more popular sizes cut off until i bought a set of the shorter ones. Those broken bolts, i don't know why they would put such long ones in there in the first place. The exposed part just gets all rusted and the threads filled with debris in an enclosed spot like that, where you can't get at to clean out. Gives you a greater threat of the threads piling up, if you can get them moving.
That was a fun video Ivan watching a YT video on his channel on how to fix a sloppy transfer case chain & then watching him do the same repair ,the only thing I would have done is the golden rule when working on drive train parts is loosen all fasteners by hand first avoiding breaking any of them.Oh & when putting the replacement studs in use some of that green loctite & then they would be almost impossible for them to unscrew easily.🤣 Cheers Ivan.
My Dad used to ask me how did I know so much when it came to fixing things and I had to tell him, “Daddy I’m not the first person that’s had this problem, UA-cam is your friend.”
wow this reminds me of the borg warner 1305/1339 quadratrac chain driven t-case that's in my 1978 jeep CJ7. it was Jeeps "all wheel drive" version of the CJ that was a 304-V8, Married to a TH 400 transmission, the 1305/1339 t-case and a off-set pumpkin AMC 20 rear. an absolute nightmare to find parts for and lots of money to convert to a manual.
I worked at a Jeep dealership in the 70s and changed many quadratrac chains. They had a “go/no go” tool that screwed into the side of the quadratrac case and indicated chain stretch.
You should have changed the entire transmission pan also. The ZF 8-speed has the transmission filter built into the pan. Also, there is a special fill procedure when adding new fluid.
Yep you’re correct..same transmission used in rangerovers and bmw..must use correct fluid and correct procedure getting the transmission up to temperature and refill..The pan with filter should also be changed as you suggested
Now that's the type of insanity where engineers deserve a head slap. Why the hell should it not have provisions to change a filter rather than the whole pan! To top it off, now a "special procedure" required. PLUS, there is a speed limit on major highways or anywhere else, so why the hell does anyone need 8-Speeds just to get there!
WOW! 200K on maybe the first full ATF change! I would be interested to see if the new fluid cleans out too much of the old stuff too fast that is sealing the rubber seal lips in the pistons. I hope the new fluid renews the rubber faster than the goo sealing them cleans out. Many Trans have gone south after a wee ell meaning ATF change at high mileage. I would recommend changing it in stages with a few thousand miles between so the sealing goo doesn’t clean out too fast. Start with 10% of the volume changed then do 25%, Then 50% then 75% then full change. Do each at oil change intervals. I’ve had good luck with this method. Please keep us updated. In about 6 months.
I'm pretty sure you have to check the transmission fluid level on level ground and the fluid temperature at certain level. Might not have the right amount if you just assume and put the same that came out.
Thats a ZF transmission the filter is integrated into the pan. Ford Chrysler, BMW use that transmission. I'd recommend the customer replace the pan/filter soon with 200k. Great fix on the Carrier brearing bolts!!
I enjoyed watching the fluids drain, the wrenches turning, the old parts shifting out, new ones in. A good old fashioned mechanic 🧰 job. No computer required 😅
I've tinkered with cars for a long time. Using ATF in Chrysler gearboxes is nothing new. One of my favorite cars was a 1964 Plymouth Valiant 200 with a 273 and a Borg Warner T10 4-speed gearbox. It used Dexron ATF.
I’m a Chrysler tech and the 8 speeds are filled for life. You should be using the Chrysler fluid. Had a lot of issues where customers got the transmission fluid changed using generic fluid and had issues later on.
@@medic1dl The Chrysler fluid is Lifeguard 8, is it not? And there are plenty of compatible aftermarket fluids. That said I am skeptical of fluids like Valvoline Maxlife that seem too good to be true.
@@kevin9c1 Mopar ZF 8&9 Speed ATF™ Automatic Transmission Fluid. "For eight speed transmissions, the fluid level is preset at the factory and does not require adjustment under normal operating conditions. Routine fluid level checks are not required, therefore the transmission has no dipstick. Your authorized dealer can check your transmission fluid level using special service tools." Under the maintenance schedule it only lists changing fluid on the 6 speeds only.
@@kevin9c1for what its worth ive used maxlife in everything from 4l60s to ZF 8HP transmissions and had good luck. I even use it in mercedes 7 speed automatics with great results.
@@medic1dl something important to remember; “lifetime” to a manufacturer is the life of the warranty. Anybody who wishes to take the vehicle past that, which only makes sense so you’re not losing your hind end due to depreciation or cost of replacement, will ignore manufacturers recommendations on lubrication these days and over maintain their products. They’re getting all kinds of kickbacks for showing their vehicles do not require heavy use of petroleum products these days.
6 years ago I started my shop because if you scanner Danner and Eric. I was for sure green. I had a 14 Cherokee come in from used car lot. They had a previous shop put a transfer case in. It still had issues. They brought it to me to have the case replaced again. I put case in and it still had same code. I was scratching my head when I figured out the connector going to the transfer case was not plugged in all the way. I still have that one I pulled out because it's still good. Car lot has done this about 5 times since. They had me replace a motor that had locked up compressor and alternator. They had me put a transmission in a avenger that needed a PCM. Car lot guys are cheap to a fault.
I delivered parts to car lots. They run a scanner.. Read the code and fire the parts cannon. That why I don't buy used cars from lots. I also deliver radiator stop leak alot😅😅😅
Congrats on shop ownership. Started mine 1986 before all of the help on internet was invented. Used to work on a ton of used car lot cars. Lost almost all because they wanted everything patched. Pick your customers and your jobs and you will enjoy. My career was 50 years total. New career involves grandson and toy cars ‼️
@@dharley189 I used to be strung out on drugs. I came home from prison 10 years ago. I was never a mechanic really. I did work at that same car lot doing brakes and cleaning cars. I had went to school in prison for electrical. I went to trade school for mechatronics. Fancy word for industrial maintenance. I started a job at a plastics place. I didnt know the 1st day I started but I knew more than the guy in charge. He used to call people in to run a air line 20 feet. Anyway I got fired from there. They even fought my unemployment after almost 2 years. I was rebuilding GM instrument clusters on the side. I knew a guy who closed his shop but had 3 vehicles that need fixed. We struck a deal for me to rent his shop. I fixed his cars and the rest is history.
@@dharley189 Yes sir. I have done all of this with n othing. I was strung out on drugs and went to prison. I came home 10 years ago and went to tech school for mechatronics. I got fired from a dead end job at a plastics place. Little did I know the day I started I knew more than the guy who worked there 20 years and was in charge of maintenance. He would call outside companies for everything. Even to move an air line 10 feet down the wall. I was rebuilding instrument clusters and saved some money. Made a deal to rent a shop dude closed. He had 3 cars. 2 tore apart in the garage. A audi a6 he was putting a trans in. It ended up being TCM. Also a VW Toureg that had motor tore out for a rear main seal leak. I put em together and the rest is history.
The chain sounds like it is slipping in the transfer case. If that is it I am going to burst out laughing. I haven't even watched all the video! GREAT VIDEO!
Very informative video..! Of course you have to have wear ..! Fluid looks worse than motor oil, and to make matters worse, the level is extremely low. Seems like most people worry more about engine oil, and never worry about transmission or transfer case fluids..! Thanks again for that video..!
Hi IVAN,another interesting video.This one however was the kind most mechanics can handle,haha a simple parts change.Quite different from your last 10 repairs.ONE tip that might help someone out when doing a repair with Loctite,in a 1 day seminar i took years ago by loctite corp. If you heat bolts or assembly's to around 325 degrees or so the loctite releases easy.Also when applying it,they make a primer/cleaner you are supposed to use.AT work i used the stuff for 1 bottle worth,and i learned exactly why bolts like yours STAY TIGHT.PREP>who knew.good video IVAN
The thing that really puzzles me is down here in the South where it snows once every two or three years and it's all melted by the afternoon, most of the cars are sold with 4WD. Why? I think the dealers just like the up charge. A lunch mate co-worker has a 4WD minivan. Why? It's not like she's going off roading. Whenever it's her turn to drive to lunch we are always trying to egg her on to turn off the road and take a short cut across a field. She's the last person who would go off roading. On the other hand another lunch mate in our group has a serious off road vehicle and we have to try to get him to NOT cut across that field because it's rather bumpy.
Hey relize this job is probably done already for for future. It is easier to weld a bolt and make a stud then it is to dig out a broken bolt .... works well maybe even better then stock .
Council zoning rules don't allow it in his residential neighbourhood. So much to the term "land of the free"... same as here in Oz, the EU and Britain. We're just their serves, being really a free individual in the West seemed to become an illusion
I believe that the owners are very light on gas pedal as it should be and this is why this chain lasted as well as the car's good driveability. I guess owners of such vehicle should evade up hill terrains and heavily loading the accelerator pedal.
That transmission uses a special fluid with NO dye. It’s not supposed to get regular ATF or ATF+4 like most others. Also the pan is the filter & it’s stupid expensive lol
Only quibble I have with the repair is that I would be inclined to replace the chain guide block, unless upon comparison with a new one, the existing one had very little wear.
They call it lifetime fluid in many of them. But that isn't something I'd recommend. Although it is a good idea to use the exact fluid Chrysler/Jeep recommends.
I am 72 year old mechanic haven't worked in a shop for 2 years , but now I watch Rain man Rays repairs , wrenching with Kenny ,Jimmy making it work , South Main auto , Pine Hollow auto diag , Phillip Baily that have daily video's in the morning , then I take a nap in my easy chair in my garage with my show truck and my mustang ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
I’m 70. Retired 8 years. I enjoy watching what my worn out body won’t let me do anymore. I tinker, visit my old shop friends, hang out in my shop and love naps too.
I do help out when those young 40 and under techs need consult 80’s and older cars too.
Nick's Garage
Relive the old muscle car days. Hemi's, 440 6 packs are his passion, but tackles any motor. I believe he's almost 70. Makes those motors scream on the dyno
@@dharley189 same hear buddy most don't know what a hand valve lapper is or a dwell meter
@@oldbiker9739 Man we could sure name a long list of obsolete tools and procedures‼️ Choke angle gauge , replace diodes, even a timing light, mixture control solenoid , Choke pull off (actually any carburetor part)
Coffees done. Gotta call grandson and plan for a nap after a few chores. Enjoy your day.
I thought I was the only 70-year old retired knuckle buster watching this channel 😊.
The best part of Ivan's repairs is, that it's just like us working on our own vehicles. No fancy lifts, and doesn't have $100,000 in over priced tools. You gotta love it.
Ivan is pure brain power. That fancy book learning wasn't a waste with him. He puts it to use every single day.
The oscilloscope is pretty darn fancy
the scope, scanner, transducer, and loaner car gets him pretty close. LOL
You don’t think he doesn’t have a scope, transducers and all his other equipment…..🤣
He has probably already spent that much just on his scanner and documentation access.
I like the fact that you're not a feared to tackle virtually anything that comes into the shop and beyond. Great job Ivan
Thought in one video it was missing
Turned 220,000 miles on my 2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo X. Besides main fluid changes every 50,000 miles, one steering rack into my repairs. Been a great vehicle for me.
I wonder how many people were scammed across the country over this where some mechanic said it's a transmission..when it was this...???....AWESOME REPAIR...
Mechanic just charged me 2500 to replace the engine mounts and the front drivetrain for this exact issue, then said the problem isn't fixed so replacing the transfer case assembly is gonna be another 2 grand on top of that. I told him no thanks and will now go with this solution and am doing it myself. I feel like I got ripped off so hard.
My dealership is currently saying the transfer case needs to be replaced because they don’t replace internal parts… My warranty refuses to cover unless it’s taken apart and diagnosed and a location of the failure is found. Long story short, it has been a nightmare!!
I like how we can assess when Ivan did something based on how his thumbnail is healing. 😅
I love the fact that you actually repaired the transfer case rather than tell your customer go get a new or rebuilt one for thousands of dollars. Many mechanics now just choose that lazy way out and doesn't really care about the customers exorbitant bill at the end. Kudos to you bro, job well done.
UA-cam saves me and my friends a fortune.
I.ve used your vids for many problems.
2 Tips for you.
I work on my block paving drive, so when changing oil I put pan inside of a 1mtr childs sand pit, no more spills.
Also, when working on deep allen or star bolts, I mark the the first one with Tipex so I can see they gone deep enough.
A friend of mine and I both had 79k Jeep Cherokee’s. Both had the popping transfer case problem. At first I thought the chain was skipping, but figured that would be impossible. We took the transfer cases apart and could see that the problem was not that the chain was skipping, which would be impossible. What was happening was as the chain was loose as it tried to climb the tooth it would bind up, and then ultimately let go, causing the snapping sound as the chain finally went into its tooth on the drive sprocket.
So, really, it should have a chain tensioner like a timing chain does in engines generally.
I just got done replacing the chain in my 2013 Laredo and the carrier bearing bolts were so locked in with thread sealer that I thought I was going to snap mine off like you did yours. I ended up using a propane torch to heat up both bolts and it burnt all the thread sealer off of them and they came out real easy with a 1/2" ratchet & socket. I used the torch also on the front & rear bolts for the drive shaft and it worked wonders. Great video and really good explanation of what you were doin the whole time
Hello car diagnostician IVAN! You had a good example video with the volvo crankshaft position sensor, the error was caused by a bad mass between the gearbox engine and the body. I also helped my neighbor with a 1999 C70 volvo, but this time the camshaft position sensor signal was faulty. The neighbor bought a new sensor for 25 euros and today the car started .I was already preparing to clean all mass connections according to your video, but this time there was no need to do it.
Hi Ivan, your electronic diagnostic skills are second to none, hands down. We all learned A LOT from you over the years. On the auto transmission service though I would have loved you having a filter kit ready. Taking off the pan, cleaning the magnet, replace the filter and gasket. THEN fill your first 4 quarts, identify the return line that's coming back from the cooler and undo at the trans. Start engine for 3-5 secs and measure how much more old black fluid came out. Crawl back underneath, replace the amount with fresh fluid, until you see fresh fluid coming out. Usually, you'll need 12 quarts for a 9 quarts system, because there will be some mixing happening in the torque converter. But you have to buy 3x 4 quarts containers anyway, so you might as well using them. Greetings from Down Under!
Those engineers really dropped the ball on those. You would think they could have incorporated some timing marks, tensioners, and phasers in there somewhere. Good job and video Ivan.
LOL Phasers controlled by oil pressure from the engine into the transfer case. I think engineers should be forced to work as mechanics for a few years before they get a degree. Maybe then they wouldn't build some of the crap they do.
put a chain in a 1975 gmc, old cast iron case, heavy with a twist, GREAT JOB IVAN, LETTE'R BUCK !!
This is a great video. Nice how Jeep didn't over complicate this repair. Nice work Ivan!
We bought my wife a new GC Overland in 2018. it's never had anything done except fluids and filters. Despite what Scotty says/spits, these are great cars. And they drive surprisingly well too.
A short piece of copper pipe cut to an 1/8 in length same size as the bolt for the weld out method stops you from welding the bracket cheers Ivan
I’m really impressed with that Jeep. 200k miles and just routine maintenance.
My last one was just fine and I traded it in on a new one when it had 220,000 miles on it. Nothing but oil changes, tires, brakes, and batteries were needed. My current Grand Cherokee is at 140,000 miles and so far has been the same---just normal maintenance stuff. These are great vehicles.
Its strange how some UA-camrs make 1 or 2 or a few videos that actually prove out to be very useful, crazy. Thanks for all your videos, cheers.
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 188xxx. Replaced since bought.
Motor mounts
Both sides front half shafts/CV joint failure.
Both front brake hubs,calipers,brakes.
Oil filter housing craked.
TWO thermostats
Both rear brake hubs/calipers
Radiator and cooling fan
Water pump (second thermostat)
Transfer cases drained,serviced
Oil filter and serviced every 3000 miles.
Oh, it also has had FOUR frontal accidents and FOUR rearended accidents...
Replacement costs prohibit getting rid of it.
This is like the"The Learning Channel"...I agree with Ivan's comment about "buying your own scanner" or the like if you are a DIYer....I had TPMS issues and could only solve using a inexpensive code scanner and Launch i-TPMS tool(works with cell phone)....saved me $$$
Loved that jack and air hammer trick. As for your carrier bolts if bolts are pulling rust through captive nuts use a super straw kit on a can of spray grease. I have found spray grease better than oils for pulling rusty bolts through threads. The super straw can usually be directed inside the box section.
Just last week I overshot a drain pain and made a mess on my garage floor. Felt pretty stupid but glad to see that someone with a lot more experience can do the same thing. Also, I'm always careful to be sure I can get out the fill plug before taking out the drain plug. I'm feeling pretty smart after watching Ivan make some goofs.
In the early 70's Chevy/GMC went to full time 4wd.Constant chain stretch and bad tire wear on the front tires. When the chain was replaced it was recommended to install locking hubs on the front axle. This would save the wear on the transfer case chain.
I'd just add how important it is that all four tires have the same circumference dimensions as that will cause problems if they are different. Good repair!
A job well done. The neighbours should cherish your presence.
For a change, it's nice to see a purely mechanical job, Ivan 🙂 Great job and great condition on that Grand Cherokee!
If this was a European front wheel drive car, I would say immediately it's the CV joint 🙂
Good job! I change fluids in the three vehicles here every two to three years. Engine oil, engine coolant and brake fluid are at the top of the list. Engine oil and filter every 6 months or 3000 miles. Oil is cheap! Engines are expensive!
Good video Ivan.
Propane Torch makes the drive line bolts come out easy, Am sure someone already pointed this out. Love your stuff.
Always take the fill plug off first if it’s stuck you’re screwed
That is one of those experience things: Where the test is given first and the lessons are learned later.
@@thk7513 yep been there done that! What’s the first thing you do when you bring the customers car in to the shop? Always roll down the driver’s side window in case you lock the keys inside. Yep.
@@rickfromboston OMG 100% correct high end euro cars are famous for that
@@rogerstlaurent8704
Can't lock the key in my Mercedes, it won't allow you to.
In fact, on my dads old 1965 Mercedes, I remember it had a sequence on the drivers door which, if you pressed the locking button down and you closed the door, the button popped straight back up! You could only lock it from the outside with the key!
(You could be super picky and say what if you locked it from the passenger side!)
Not new tech.
I replaced several transfer case chains back in the 70s when they first started using the chain driven transfer cases. Originally they used 90 W gear lube like the gear driven cases used. In the winter that gear lube is nearly solid and even in warm weather it was too thick to properly lubricate the chain. I did several 1973 and 1974 models because the dealer I worked for could buy them cheap at vehicle auctions. By 1975 or 1976 the recommended lubricant was changed to Automatic transmission fluid on automatic transmission models and 10 weight oil behind manual transmissions. In those days, the case was cast iron and the transfer case had to b removed to replace the chain.
Nice diagnosis and fluids recommendations. For vehicles with higher mileage on them and never having transmission fluid changes, many shops suggest never flush the trans fluid as it will clear out all of the old fluid which can cause clutch issues. They all say leave it or just replace a little at a time due to the friction additives etc. in new fluids, that can play havoc with moving parts and clutches. Of course, the best practice is to change the fluids how it should be done in the real world, every 25,000 to 30,000 miles, vs. what the manual says. Some manuals are saying every 100,000 ! We all know that is irresponsible.
Sorry about those twisted off bolts....there's always something. WD-40 seems to be a requirement before any sockets or wrenches turn fasteners. Way to be Ivan.
That Max Life Fluid says it is compatible with everything. But I would not put it in just anything. Some transmissions seem to need very specific formulations to continue working correctly. That first fluid fill from the factory made it 200k miles, I would have definitely put that same fluid back in this truck and not used some "one-size" fits all fluid.
But that's just me.
My 2002 Montero Sport takes SP-III fluid and that is all it gets. 158k so far and no issues.
I use the Max Life fairly often, never had any issues. On the other hand , My Toyotas and others that I service only get Toyota WS. I made the mistake one time getting Amsoil signature, which probably is great stuff, but it is the absolute worst smelling atf ever made. I used it in an older Higjlander once and My garage stunk for a week. I still have 3.5 gallons I’d give anyone a good deal on! 😅😅
Me too, especially when you're only talking half a quart. Mopar ATF+4 isn't *that* expensive.
@@brianw8963I was thinking about trying Amsoil signature in one of my vehicles. Didn't know it smelled bad! Good idea not to spill it, I guess. If you're close I'd take it off your hands.
Absolutely.use the proper fluids .a little risky for my liking 🍺
I applaud you Ivan and expected that you would not call them gears like in the other video. Chains go to sprockets not gears.
14:58 OMG so easy, nice!!! I loved and missed every type of Jeep I had.
Had same symptom with old AWD Exploder (BW4410 w/ viscous coupling) few months back (+300kmi). Sounded like a jackhammer accelerating from a stop. Difference in chain length near immensurable but driving perfect with the new one.
As for what caused the stretch, front prop shaft had been binding. Replaced just the rearward joint only for the forward U-joint yolk to sheer a week later. And that took out the trans pan, damaging the valve body and took out a chunk of the bellhousing.
Not my first rodeo into the T-case, the VC had been replaced ~5 years prior. Already dealt with the crossmember's corroded bolts back then. Even better the chain is no longer mfg. Out of stock all over and no aftermarket either. But ebay to the rescue, managed to score the very last one.
More common on the F-150's but another cause could be the grease on the driveshaft slip-yolk has dried up. That should always be inspected first before tearing into the T-case. Symptom/sound is nearly identical.
One of my top 3 channels. Diag is top notch
As a general rule, I break torque by hand to get a sense of whether I'm going to break the bolt or not. I had one bolt that needed to come out in one piece if at all possible. But it looked very, very angry. There was a lot of back and forth with heat and PB Blaster before I even tried. Then it was gental back and forth to break corrosion and start opening it up to get more heat and PB Blaster in. Eventually you get good penetration and break the corrosion up enough to zip it out.
But I had one impossible, not just angry, bolt. It was a bolt holding a step onto an airplane. Imagine a hard landing and that step hitting the runway and all the damage it would do being attached to the fuselage. It was a steel step but attached with an aluminum bolt. So the bolt would shear first and cause the step to break away before damaging the fuselage. You can imagine all of the dissimilar metal corrosion between the steel bushing in the step and aluminum bolt. They were never coming apart. I managed to get a sawzall between the step and fuselage and cut it off. Then I had to jerryrig it in a drill press to drill out what was left of the aluminum bolt. Fun times.
Well i was in the mechanics trade for 35+ years and believe me you will run across bolts/threads that no amount of penetrant nor heat works. Same procedure as you, hand first. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. I had a particular component that was 3/4 Inch NF thread. Most times penetrant and heat worked BUT every once in a while, you would run across one where it would never move, or the threads pile up if it did. They were usually threaded in about 2 Inches (threaded rod) because it was an adjustment for another component. Eight per machine that came in the shop. Can't use an impact on them anyways nor would i want too. If something is going to break, an impact will do it quick, and hand pressure is best like you pointed out. Then there are steel threads into aluminum that can be a PIA too. Had plenty of those as well.
Nice to get a non head scratcher for a change. Put some Bernzomatic action on those loctited fasteners, it makes a big difference. The Dodge truck u- joint bolts are loctited too. The heat will break the bond. A little patience, heat and lube would have worked those carrier bolts out, NDR. Have a great Day Ivan.👍👍🇺🇸
wow way to go jeep that is truly nice not having to remove the transfer case i just replaced my 2003 chevy suburbans transfer case due to the pump eating the case and now im having a similar problem on my 2006 v8 explorer unfortunately its the front differential as 3:55 gears have been discontinued by ford so i have to get aftermarket parts as for some reason they cost more than from ford directly when it comes to gear related parts
For the fill plug next to the oil pan you can buy a set of hex wrenches that have a shorter head on them for accessing in cramped quarters like that. OR like many of the other mechanics where i worked including me, shorten a regular length one whose corners had been worn after excessive use. Always had a few of the more popular sizes cut off until i bought a set of the shorter ones. Those broken bolts, i don't know why they would put such long ones in there in the first place. The exposed part just gets all rusted and the threads filled with debris in an enclosed spot like that, where you can't get at to clean out. Gives you a greater threat of the threads piling up, if you can get them moving.
I just think that this is job security for the car parts manufacturer (Jeep in this instance)
Happy to see a JGC with lots of miles with what appears to be minimal maintenance. I hope the oil changes were always on time.
That was a fun video Ivan watching a YT video on his channel on how to fix a sloppy transfer case chain & then watching him do the same repair ,the only thing I would have done is the golden rule when working on drive train parts is loosen all fasteners by hand first avoiding breaking any of them.Oh & when putting the replacement studs in use some of that green loctite & then they would be almost impossible for them to unscrew easily.🤣 Cheers Ivan.
My Dad used to ask me how did I know so much when it came to fixing things and I had to tell him, “Daddy I’m not the first person that’s had this problem, UA-cam is your friend.”
wow this reminds me of the borg warner 1305/1339 quadratrac chain driven t-case that's in my 1978 jeep CJ7. it was Jeeps "all wheel drive" version of the CJ that was a 304-V8, Married to a TH 400 transmission, the 1305/1339 t-case and a off-set pumpkin AMC 20 rear. an absolute nightmare to find parts for and lots of money to convert to a manual.
I worked at a Jeep dealership in the 70s and changed many quadratrac chains. They had a “go/no go” tool that screwed into the side of the quadratrac case and indicated chain stretch.
❤ thank you … you helped me alot.. i almost almost got convinced it was my gear box . I have the exact same issue with my Land Cruiser
Ivan, spoil yourself with a cheap 4 post lift. Game changer.
You should have changed the entire transmission pan also. The ZF 8-speed has the transmission filter built into the pan. Also, there is a special fill procedure when adding new fluid.
Yep you’re correct..same transmission used in rangerovers and bmw..must use correct fluid and correct procedure getting the transmission up to temperature and refill..The pan with filter should also be changed as you suggested
Now that's the type of insanity where engineers deserve a head slap. Why the hell should it not have provisions to change a filter rather than the whole pan! To top it off, now a "special procedure" required. PLUS, there is a speed limit on major highways or anywhere else, so why the hell does anyone need 8-Speeds just to get there!
WOW! 200K on maybe the first full ATF change! I would be interested to see if the new fluid cleans out too much of the old stuff too fast that is sealing the rubber seal lips in the pistons. I hope the new fluid renews the rubber faster than the goo sealing them cleans out. Many Trans have gone south after a wee ell meaning ATF change at high mileage. I would recommend changing it in stages with a few thousand miles between so the sealing goo doesn’t clean out too fast. Start with 10% of the volume changed then do 25%, Then 50% then 75% then full change. Do each at oil change intervals. I’ve had good luck with this method. Please keep us updated. In about 6 months.
Can't wait for the next video
👍
CANNY,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 15:40 Good Afternoon
I'm pretty sure you have to check the transmission fluid level on level ground and the fluid temperature at certain level. Might not have the right amount if you just assume and put the same that came out.
Thats a ZF transmission the filter is integrated into the pan. Ford Chrysler, BMW use that transmission. I'd recommend the customer replace the pan/filter soon with 200k. Great fix on the Carrier brearing bolts!!
Thanks!
Don't own a jeep but still, that was a good video. At least it is a straightforward repair. 👍
Great as ever a chain without a tensioner never a great idea
I enjoyed watching the fluids drain, the wrenches turning, the old parts shifting out, new ones in. A good old fashioned mechanic 🧰 job. No computer required 😅
19:50 Very satisfying, keep it on, and off-roading too, many more happy Jeep-miles.
Great video! Good to know pros also go on UA-cam to find answers! Lol. Thank you!
I've tinkered with cars for a long time. Using ATF in Chrysler gearboxes is nothing new. One of my favorite cars was a 1964 Plymouth Valiant 200 with a 273 and a Borg Warner T10 4-speed gearbox. It used Dexron ATF.
Nice job Ivan! I would have replaced the pan which houses the filter just because of the milage. Thanks!
The plastic pan has an integrated filter so that would have been a good idea to change out. They are not cheap though.
I’m a Chrysler tech and the 8 speeds are filled for life. You should be using the Chrysler fluid. Had a lot of issues where customers got the transmission fluid changed using generic fluid and had issues later on.
@@medic1dl The Chrysler fluid is Lifeguard 8, is it not? And there are plenty of compatible aftermarket fluids. That said I am skeptical of fluids like Valvoline Maxlife that seem too good to be true.
@@kevin9c1 Mopar ZF 8&9 Speed ATF™ Automatic Transmission Fluid. "For eight speed transmissions, the fluid level is preset at the factory and does not require adjustment under normal operating conditions. Routine fluid level checks are not required, therefore the transmission has no dipstick. Your authorized dealer can check your transmission fluid level using special service tools." Under the maintenance schedule it only lists changing fluid on the 6 speeds only.
@@kevin9c1for what its worth ive used maxlife in everything from 4l60s to ZF 8HP transmissions and had good luck. I even use it in mercedes 7 speed automatics with great results.
@@medic1dl something important to remember; “lifetime” to a manufacturer is the life of the warranty. Anybody who wishes to take the vehicle past that, which only makes sense so you’re not losing your hind end due to depreciation or cost of replacement, will ignore manufacturers recommendations on lubrication these days and over maintain their products.
They’re getting all kinds of kickbacks for showing their vehicles do not require heavy use of petroleum products these days.
Use heat to remove loctited bolts while still hot. 180 to 300 degrees will drastically reduce the required torque depending on loctite type.
Change your fluids on time people, and keep those magnets clean.
Another happy customer 👍 💰
Winner winner😁
6 years ago I started my shop because if you scanner Danner and Eric. I was for sure green. I had a 14 Cherokee come in from used car lot. They had a previous shop put a transfer case in. It still had issues. They brought it to me to have the case replaced again. I put case in and it still had same code. I was scratching my head when I figured out the connector going to the transfer case was not plugged in all the way. I still have that one I pulled out because it's still good. Car lot has done this about 5 times since. They had me replace a motor that had locked up compressor and alternator. They had me put a transmission in a avenger that needed a PCM. Car lot guys are cheap to a fault.
I delivered parts to car lots. They run a scanner.. Read the code and fire the parts cannon. That why I don't buy used cars from lots. I also deliver radiator stop leak alot😅😅😅
Congrats on shop ownership. Started mine 1986 before all of the help on internet was invented.
Used to work on a ton of used car lot cars. Lost almost all because they wanted everything patched.
Pick your customers and your jobs and you will enjoy. My career was 50 years total.
New career involves grandson and toy cars ‼️
@@dharley189 I used to be strung out on drugs. I came home from prison 10 years ago. I was never a mechanic really. I did work at that same car lot doing brakes and cleaning cars. I had went to school in prison for electrical. I went to trade school for mechatronics. Fancy word for industrial maintenance. I started a job at a plastics place. I didnt know the 1st day I started but I knew more than the guy in charge. He used to call people in to run a air line 20 feet. Anyway I got fired from there. They even fought my unemployment after almost 2 years. I was rebuilding GM instrument clusters on the side. I knew a guy who closed his shop but had 3 vehicles that need fixed. We struck a deal for me to rent his shop. I fixed his cars and the rest is history.
@@dharley189 Yes sir. I have done all of this with n othing. I was strung out on drugs and went to prison. I came home 10 years ago and went to tech school for mechatronics. I got fired from a dead end job at a plastics place. Little did I know the day I started I knew more than the guy who worked there 20 years and was in charge of maintenance. He would call outside companies for everything. Even to move an air line 10 feet down the wall. I was rebuilding instrument clusters and saved some money. Made a deal to rent a shop dude closed. He had 3 cars. 2 tore apart in the garage. A audi a6 he was putting a trans in. It ended up being TCM. Also a VW Toureg that had motor tore out for a rear main seal leak. I put em together and the rest is history.
Checked the one on my '13 AWD Durango last night. Can rotate the rear driveshaft almost a full inch before the front one moves.
I was saying "Ivan don't overshoot the pan! It's really thin!!" Ivan overshot the pan. 🤣
The chain sounds like it is slipping in the transfer case. If that is it I am going to burst out laughing. I haven't even watched all the video! GREAT VIDEO!
Came to see if anyone is freaking out b/c you changed the transmission fluid at such high miles…. Gasp!
Wow. Amazingly easy, well except for the broken bolt.
Have you tried left hand drill bits to remove bolts/studs? They're a nice product.
Very informative video..! Of course you have to have wear ..! Fluid looks worse than motor oil, and to make matters worse, the level is extremely low. Seems like most people worry more about engine oil, and never worry about transmission or transfer case fluids..!
Thanks again for that video..!
Hi IVAN,another interesting video.This one however was the kind most mechanics can handle,haha a simple parts change.Quite different from your last 10 repairs.ONE tip that might help someone out when doing a repair with Loctite,in a 1 day seminar i took years ago by loctite corp. If you heat bolts or assembly's to around 325 degrees or so the loctite releases easy.Also when applying it,they make a primer/cleaner you are supposed to use.AT work i used the stuff for 1 bottle worth,and i learned exactly why bolts like yours STAY TIGHT.PREP>who knew.good video IVAN
Superwork on the chain/transfer case. - Solved the problem...! Kudos
Guy at work had the same issue with his Durango. Very common.
The thing that really puzzles me is down here in the South where it snows once every two or three years and it's all melted by the afternoon, most of the cars are sold with 4WD. Why? I think the dealers just like the up charge. A lunch mate co-worker has a 4WD minivan. Why? It's not like she's going off roading. Whenever it's her turn to drive to lunch we are always trying to egg her on to turn off the road and take a short cut across a field. She's the last person who would go off roading. On the other hand another lunch mate in our group has a serious off road vehicle and we have to try to get him to NOT cut across that field because it's rather bumpy.
Hey relize this job is probably done already for for future. It is easier to weld a bolt and make a stud then it is to dig out a broken bolt .... works well maybe even better then stock .
I'll have to remember this one. Nice job my friend.
Wow, 200k without drive train fluid changes? On an automatic with 4WD? What are people thinking? Good stuff Ivan.
Wow Ivan doing a repair without a scope
I really love when you do videos a lot more often
RULE #1 for fluid changes. Take out the fill plug first!!!!!!! Then you can refill after draining without creating an issue for yourself.
My 1978 CJ7 Jeep with Quadra track did the very same thing
I've seen this happen with a lot of Cadilac XT5's. But usually by the time the owner wants to get it fixed, it's way too late.
Glad you're doing the other fluids! 😁
Ivan these early uploads are going to get me fired. I am late for work everytime.
Few ever check or change transfer case oil.
Until it makes noise.
Just fixed a few .
Some ATF is clear, so when it gets dirty it gets dark but not reddish.
Nice video and fairly straight forward fix. Using green Loctite is just mean. 🤣🤣
YOUR SO GOOD YOU DESERVE TO GET YOURSELF A HOIST...
Council zoning rules don't allow it in his residential neighbourhood. So much to the term "land of the free"... same as here in Oz, the EU and Britain. We're just their serves, being really a free individual in the West seemed to become an illusion
carlyle makes a set of very short hex and torx sockets, i use them for jeep cherokee oil filter adapter gaskets
I believe that the owners are very light on gas pedal as it should be and this is why this chain lasted as well as the car's good driveability. I guess owners of such vehicle should evade up hill terrains and heavily loading the accelerator pedal.
You follow regular car reviews, nice!
That transmission uses a special fluid with NO dye. It’s not supposed to get regular ATF or ATF+4 like most others. Also the pan is the filter & it’s stupid expensive lol
Don't use the "one size fits all" oils in the ZF transmissions, that's for sure! Saw an 8 speed recently ruined as the result of having red oil in it.
That's alot of hard work without a lift. Your neck muscles must really hurt after that repair.
He’s a pup yet, it’s coming.😅😅
I had something similar on a 2012 but not as loud. It was the rear parking brake assembly that had grenaded itself.....
I’d exchange the entire ZF trans pan and filter assembly.
Only quibble I have with the repair is that I would be inclined to replace the chain guide block, unless upon comparison with a new one, the existing one had very little wear.
They call it lifetime fluid in many of them. But that isn't something I'd recommend. Although it is a good idea to use the exact fluid Chrysler/Jeep recommends.