33%er here, we need to start a 33%er club, I like that motor setup, for low end locomotives, that's a lot better than pancake motors. Another one back from the dead, nice job as always.
Ron, it’s apparent by now you are the master miniature motor mechanic, so that should be your title henceforth. Ron, the Master Miniature Motor Mechanic of Classic Model Trains.
@@classicmodeltrains Gonna have to join one of the Dungeons and Dragons role playing channels for that title…and I think it might be taken, but I’m not sure. Haven’t been around there in a good long while. 😺
Now I have a lot of time on my hands. I lost part of my right leg December of last year. Right before Christmas. Watching you work on the trains, and messing with mine have gave me some what a since of being normal again.
I Am very sorry to hear that. I hope for what ever reason they took it is all better and your rehabilitation is going well. A few Fellers have mentioned they have watched my episodes to take their mind off whats going on in their life. Gives them a bit of a distraction. I am glad my Video's have brought you some peace. Glad to hear your doing some modeling as well :-)
@@classicmodeltrains I have diabetes, I let a stone bruse get me. What's bad I loved my job too.I work the loading dock drawings trucks for their loads one week. Then the next week I would load trucks. We use to have rail cars that would come in to be loaded, but that was before my time of going to work there. So on my n scale layout I'm building I'm kit bashing a lumber yard from Walters with a piko office building and a couple of other buildings to make something that looks like my fomor place of work. I can get wooden cable reels. But I'm going to have to 3-D print metal reels. As far as the rehabilitation goes I'm getting along well. Just having to wait for the fitting of a prostatic. Too you have me waiting to get the amp gage, and voltage gage like you have on your ho layout. That would help me out with some of these older engines I have in n scale. I recently had one that was giving me trouble. Took me 4 months to figure out it was the plastic cover around the motor to keep it from grounding out had a bad spot in it. The engine would make three laps around a circle test, and break in track then falt. Take the motor out, and test it outside the locomotive it would run with no problems. Now I have that one fixed. Now I'm working on a mini trix f unit. It never had a working light so I'm going to try, and put one in.
Just wish I had another controller. I have a new Bachmann controller, and a old model power D-cell battery operated controller. I took a wiring set for a switch, and made a testing wire from it with small alligator clips. The battery controller I left it like it was. That one makes my son mad. I can take some tracks, and a locomotive with a few rolling stock. Go somewhere that doesn't have power, and still run myself a train set. Where he can not do so.
Super. My railroad still has one Cox EMD GP-9 low hood unit in operation. I obtained it in a trade with a friend a few weeks after he bought it brand new, because he just wasn't very happy with it, even though it ran fine. As he didn't feel like going through the hassle of returning it, we swapped locomotives. A good trade for me, as he got a Bachmann F-9 of mine, a gift from another friend, that ran quite well, but I wasn't very happy with, and I got the Geep. (My railroad uses early EMD F-7 units which have the small 36" dynamic brake fan, versus the Bachmann F-9, which has the 48" dynamic brake fan.) The two plastic wheels on the non powered truck of the Cox locomotive were already cracked, although brand new, and I filled them with MEK mixed with flour, and I also filled in the traction tire slots. I added weight, diode directional lights, various details, and new paint, and almost fifty years later, it is still in operation on my layout. It will pull about nine cars on its own without the tires, so I usually assign it and another four wheel drive diesel unit to the local freight and commuter trains. (Only my Mantua/Tyco 0-4-0 steam switcher with tender still has its traction tire, but it is great to have an 0-4-0 that will pull fifty cars.) The drive is quite good, and I have had no issues with it, even though l operate it outside in the rain and snow. It also got much quieter and smoother after about a decade of operation. Good video. Love the classics. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Yet another loco that you have made a lot better. Love it! Also I think you got the better end of the trade because I'm sure that Bachmann F unit is no longer running
@mattjosefczyk2579 The Trainline Geep is somewhat retooled from the Cox source. (Which is itself a low-nose "M" copy of the original Cox GP9, which was actually Athearn's GP9!) Model Power also offered this model after Cox's departure from the market.
Hey Ron, great video. I would recommend a non silicone electric contact cleaner spray for your tracks. You can spray it and wipe it with a lint free cloth. Keeps build up and pitting from happening as well.
I still build 1/2A control line planes from scratch and use Cox .049 Black Widows and Golden Bees on them. I'm 43 and I think I'm the youngest guy in the hobby 😂
I had downward performance spiral going on for years with all my locomotives. It started with a pulsing motion and eventually became dead spots. I started noticing lots of carbon build up, so I started using the Woodland Scenics cleaning system. I ended up spending most of my time cleaning the track. I finally decided to spend the money to get a CMX track cleaning car… and BAM! Not a single problem since! Everything runs like the day I bought it! Switches and crossings I thought needed replacing suddenly stopped causing stalls. The one thing that scared me off at first was the price, but when I figured out how much I was spending on all the refills and wipers for the Tidy Track, the CMX will have paid for itself within 2 years.
Hi Ron, thanks for the video. I got one of these sets for Christmas in 1977. I recently started piecing a set together. I have the locomotive and all rolling stock. Not sure if the loco runs but everything is there and it looks good. Walthers still makes the GP9 loco based on the Cox model (I got on last year). Enjoy your channel and thanks again.
That's pretty cool Ted that your putting together this set. I wished I could have found the Walthers one on their site. I didnt have an hour to search for it.
As Always Great Video Sir! Another Lesson in the books! Thank You for sharing your Knowledge with us! You need to get some Classic Model Trains Merch! Sign me up for a Shirt!
Wow I had a lot of different locomotives back in the day but actually never had a cox one it’s a cool one I like it and from reading other comments here that is how they run 👍
@@dalefraschetti1874 Your quite the Early Bird. Good to hear this one is running in the normal range. I really did expect it to be a real smooth runner.
Hi Ron. Great video as always, feel free to release any of your videos at 4am your time as that’s 11am my time in here in the U.K. 😂All ready looking forward to seeing your next video and the next classic Model 👍
Great job Ron. That was intense. I didn't realize that an HO model could have so many little tiny parts going on inside just to run. It's nothing like O where all that's usually needed is a couple of shots of contact cleaner to get them running again. I'm selling off my few HO engines first chance I get now and seeking therapy after that one. That's one of those episodes where I would rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy moments.
Every gauge has its positives and negatives. This one really wasn't that bad to work on. Just a learning curve for me. Next one will be twice as easy ;-)
Another great video. Things do not always go smoothly. Thanks for showing all of the problems you had to fix. Thanks for sharing. I remember Elle. Yowza. LOL
Thanks Big W! A lot of companies were pulling out at this time. the 70's was a tough time for hobby-toys. electronics was taking away all the attention.
@@bigwoz78 The 70s and 80s were some time ago, so all I can give at this point on the calendar is that it ran the same as any contemporary Athearn with the cast metal flywheels, which, yes, was much better than this one & some time in the 80s my brother asked me to repaint the shell in to the "Kodachrome" livery for the SP-ATSF merger which ended up not happening. EDIT: Oh, and being 8-wheel drive, 8-wheel electrical pickup, went a long way toward providing that much better running.
Hey Ron you should make you a small circle or oval so you can just run these old girls after fixing them to break them in or hopefully smooth them out a bit. 33%er!
Nearly everything in the 1974 line of Cox Trains items (including freight cars and caboose) are still available but from Walthers as its Trainline series. The GP9M drive line, motor and frame as well as some details have been greatly improved (the slots under the cab and long hood sides that retain the trucks and large slot for the talgo couplers now gone). The only former Cox items that Walthers hasn't reintroduced is their building kits which Walthers might not have the molds for.
@@classicmodeltrains Make sure you're looking at Trainline offerings, not any of the other lines! If nothing else, look for the 931- prefix on their part numbers. (I worked at Walthers briefly just before they started Trainline, and spent a few years running a small hobby shop.)
Hi Ron, thanks for sharing! I really enjoy when folks show videos of locomotive repairing and refurbishing in detail! I often wonder if this line called Big Pine Lumber is fictional or if it's actually modeled from a place? I'm in southern Oregon and there is a mountain called Onion Mountain and there is a Big Pine area on oinion Mt and it did have a logging and Mill operation many years ago! Hmmmm?
33%-er. I was up at 4, but my 4 is your 3am. Just got around to watching, spent most of the day up at Ridgecrest packing up from the weekends show. Cool video.
@@classicmodeltrains I can understand, week ago, not counting the 3 hour combine drive. 7 hrs to set up the layout (and we weren't finished. maybe Polish?) Then Friday, Saturday and Sunday working and operating trains, I iPhone said I walked 17.5 miles as of yesterday afternoon. Drove back up today and spent 4 or so hrs packing up Benny's ships and my stuff. THEN, next Saturday will drive back to help the Club pack up what's left.
I definitely feel your pain throughout this whole video I go through the same process every time I try to fix my own models. And they are pretty successful most of the time. I actually fixed an engine pretty identical to that and it's a 1960s era tyco mantua 5280. The model had an almost exact similar drive unit. The biggest problem with that model was the brushes on the commentator was all whack. It was actually the right side Brush that wouldn't stay on to the drive unit it kept having connection issues, Mostly short circulating. The plastic wheels are also cracked and missing their traction tires making the model run really wobbly and having very little traction. This model is so old in fact that a lot of the model's components is actually held together with rivets instead of screws which I actually replaced with some screws. The model also has some missing or broken parts off of it and it's truck covers are also been broken off because there just made out of plastic and it's metal hand railings also came loose and the front part is missing. The model miraculously does actually run though, it's not the greatest runner in the world due to it's age and tooling but I was actually surprised at myself that I was able to get a model this old up and running. The real reason why this model is so busted up is because at my local train shop they're selling $35 bargain bin full of vintage rolling stock from mostly the 60s 70s and 80s with some other unidentifiable cars and components. One of them being this engine that I swore did not cost anything or heck even a single dollar! It's just a funny story I just wanted to share. Great job at getting that old engine back up and running!
@@classicmodeltrains Aww man that's the tough part. It would be cool to make a looker again but it just needs a lot of parts, especially the drain traction tires and those cracked Wheels. I do own a 3D printer so maybe I could find some parts for it however I'm not sure about this engine. But I do like my engines looking pretty and complete. Good Question
In the mid 70's I had a COX gas powered car that ran on a long string .... didn't turn, The motor was the same you see on the old COX airplanes. It was like a dune buggy with drag racing wheels on it
Hi Ron. Good to see you, Happy Monday. The witness program works pretty good 😉 lol. Had a good chuckle at poor old uncle Joey, never lied to me before in my life...😂 . This lil engine sure gave you a run for the money, wow. In the end, not too bad. The noise it makes running, kinda sounds like a chugging engine, without having a sound card. Let's go with that. Glad you got your furnace fixed, soon be time to use it. Shout out to the 33%ers out there. 👏 Chat again soon, cheers 🥂 . G.
I have a few of these in my collection also. I’m glad you are working on these oldies but goodies. Saving this to my locomotive repair favorites folder. By the way, awesome brickwork on that building in the beginning. Such great detail.
I tried that Sanchem grease on my track after cleaning it with mineral spirits and it REALLY WORKS! Just make sure you apply it as lightly as possible. I've been running two years on the original coat and I have only had to touch up a couple of spots. Enjoyed the video. I think you got that engine running great for what it is. If that engine was designed with a fly wheel it would run a lot smoother.
I've used the No-Ox-Id "A Special" after cleaning with mineral spirits on an oval of steel Life-Like PowerLoc track. I, too, am at about year 2, and the only issue I've had is gunk building up in the frog flangeway on the one turnout on it. (Last week!) The rails have been quite reliably clean!
Hey Ron, thanks for the video. I’m impressed with the motor setup in the locomotive. Seems like a good way to go. Have you ever thought about putting a black pinstripe on the pickup to trim the orange from the white? I think that would look sharp. Go 33%!
It does sound as though the worm gears are binding with the axil gears like when you have a tight spot in the motorcycle chain you get that same sound. You might try switching the drive wheel sets position, so they are on the other worm gear who knows maybe they were matched. If that don't work pull the pin and through it then duck and cover, lol. On the bright side you now have a running locomotive, and you did a good job getting it to that point so leave it at that. Great video, Jersey Bill
Good video Ron, wish it was out when i disassemble the same one i had! Beyond frustrating,lol. I finally got it but was unimpressed with it, other than actually getting it to run. It found a new home and im sure is being cared for by someone other than me!! 😂
I use the Walthers Code 100 DCC Friendly turnouts ... I dont have issues with mine and they snap like the PECO ones do, so you can hand throw them and they stay in place
Hi Ron. 33% 'er and then some repeat too. I picked up one of those COX crane cars. Super cheap and I will make it a project someday. I always know the babes but cannot remember their names.
I totally agree with you on the walthers web sight, a disaster to navigate. I finally found what i wanted, checked outcin cart, and then they wouldnt reckonize my address for postage. Ive lived here 12 years and order from all over the world with no problems. So i had to get what i needed through ebay, and psying more for seperate orders and seperate postage to here in New Zealand. Makes things really expensive really fast
@@classicmodeltrains sure is. And some on ebay don't ship here. A place in England will ship to Australia, (a independent country from the colonial) but not to NZ which is still part of the colonial England. He he. I got it posted to a proxy address in England, then forward on to me. It's a head ache. If I need lots of little items from the US. I'll get them sent to a proxy address in the US, then repackaged in to one when they all arrive, and again forwarded on to me in one parcel. Just the hopes we have to jump through to enjoy our play time. LoL 😂😋
Hey! Theres Regis in the comments once again!! I was getting worried about you. I was thinking about you when dissembling this motor thinking it would be a good candidate for a magnet upgrade but that dang bolt goes thru the magnets so the ones I have would not work. I think its about time for a magnet upgrade video for you my Friend :-)
Thanks a lot Ron! I’m gonna appreciate it so very much! Lots of work here my friend - and not so much time to enjoy the things that I care about, like your videos… but I’m catching up!
High heat application also affects magnets. Past Ron seems to be on top of it for future Ron's benefit. Imagine designing the machinery to assemble these locos...
Your continuity tester sounds like my oven timer. My biscuits were NOT ready yet hehehe. Also, I thought my oven was acting up….beeeppppp. Beeepppppppp.
How about a video showing us the details of how your amp and volt meters are wired so that we can make a similar setup? Add to it the type of track and switches that you use. (Peco?)
3rd video in my list showcases how I built them gauges. Another video "this layout has to go" and it looks like I'm taking a chain saw after it talkes about the track, wiring and switches
I used to use Cox motors for model boats back in the day... I feel your hurt putting those brushes in... I have the same problems at times.. A lovely nice and quiet loco... I like the new threads you are wearing.. suits you and the channel. Elle is one hot looking lady...
One thing that I would say good about this MU-2 clone drive is that a person could open up the drive versus the Tyco/Mantua MU-2 drive. A drill and replacement hardware (screws, washers, and nuts) are required to open up the Tyco/Mantua drive for proper servicing of the motor bearings or the traction tires. I wish Tyco/Mantua would have spent the money to do this like they did with the MU-1 drive instead of using rivets. All I know is that I have some Tyco/Mantua MU-2 drives which will require the drill and replacement hardware method to give them the proper servicing that is needed.
Great video as always Ron! But, this is even further proof of the brushes conspiracy! I’m telling ya, need to bring back Finch and Reese from Person of Interest to get to the bottom of this lol !
I have a Cox engine with the Revell design sitting on my floor "in queue" to get looked at, at some point. Lots of other projects ahead of that one, though. The motor is completely seized, so it'll be a complete teardown to get it going again.
I have two of those motors With some extreme modifications I use two of them in one locomotive. But, I have not solved the only four wheel pickup problems. I haven’t run that locomotive in years…. Think I’ll go run it…
I really like the design of this motor but apparently there's something intrinsic to it that makes it stutter after reading other viewers' posts with the same problem. All in all they can't all be good creepers but this one will be a good runner. Keep up the great work Ron. I always look forward to your next endeavor. 😎
Thanks!! Glad you like the videos Norm. I wonder if I had a re-magnetiser and put some new life into the magnets it might cure that stutter? Hummm........
In my dad’s collection of yard sale trains he passed down to me was a Cox Championship Train set. It has a Hooker Headers boxcar, Champion spark plugs boxcar, a flat car with a race car/box, and matching caboose. Neat engine. Mine seems to run a little better than yours but sounds about the same. The box cars I think need more weight. They wobble going around corners really bad. Excellent vid as always.👍👍
The Peco switches are great, but they rely on slide contacts to power the point rails and frog. If you lose continuity on those sliders it's game over. The way to fix it is to solder jumpers between the stock rails and point rails for the Insulfrog turnouts and power the frog with an electrical switch for the electrofrog turnouts. A bit extra wiring, but the results are worth it.
Hey ron, i’m using snap track for my layout, is this okay in the long run? Also i looked on amazon for another steam engine but i was shocked rtr models cost so much, so i’m scratchbuilding my engines,
I wish there were vintage trains needing repair in Australia. I have built over 200 loco's from brass and white metal kits for guys in Australia over the last 20 years but it's drying up because of the quality of RTR. I am now the chief repairer for locos at my club but there too the number requiring repair has dried up. Love building, repairing/restoring locos but there just isn't the call for it here.
As far as magnets, it depends on how it was made, old day ones were made by metals that were not as stable, so often keeper plates were kept on the ends. Now one thing to be aware of is how much current can be drawn if there is no keeper when energized. It is why you have to be careful with solnoids
I watch your UA-cam videos and this is same issue I have with my Tyco Spirit of 1776 locomotive went it ran. I also would like to restore my Spirit of 1776 locomotive, but I have been running into issues finding parts. missing coupler that had brass clip hold down. I've looked for old similar locomotives to scavenge parts from. any other suggestions? I like you detailed show.
Ive replaced a lot of couplers on my tyco stuff. If you go into my playlists you will see a playlist of nothing but tyco repairs. In them video's you should come up with some ideas after seeing how I did coupler upgrades.
Ugh...these were a bane in my life. I went through 4 of them in a year, because the motors kept overheating ...ending in fire on the rails(even though i did keep them well maintained) and In the end, i kept them as dummies. In recent times, i ended up re-powering them with Stanton drives from northwest shortline. I had to make floors to mount them to. Overall, now they run pretty good and haul over 50 freight cars each....without heat issues,lol.
@@classicmodeltrains Yeah, I always had issues with those particular motors, never any other types. I am glad I kept the shells. They have some sentimental value, considering I've owned them since age 9,lol.
@@classicmodeltrains They are a company that offers die cast models, and magazines where you get parts of a model and you have to buy them all to build the whole thing, including a Model train layout. they comission stuff from chinese companies, using ancient molds from Cox, Lima and rivarossi and others. You will spend over $1k thereabout to build an entire model, like their lighted Titanic for example. Basically like Bradford exchange.
33%er here, we need to start a 33%er club, I like that motor setup, for low end locomotives, that's a lot better than pancake motors. Another one back from the dead, nice job as always.
Hello Mark, yes way better than pancake drives. Clubs could be fun
@@classicmodeltrains yeppers
@@classicmodeltrains I want to order one of those cool shirts, when you get the logo finalized.
Ron, it’s apparent by now you are the master miniature motor mechanic, so that should be your title henceforth. Ron, the Master Miniature Motor Mechanic of Classic Model Trains.
I was kinda holding out for Overlord Ron ;-)
@@classicmodeltrains Gonna have to join one of the Dungeons and Dragons role playing channels for that title…and I think it might be taken, but I’m not sure. Haven’t been around there in a good long while. 😺
Now I have a lot of time on my hands. I lost part of my right leg December of last year. Right before Christmas. Watching you work on the trains, and messing with mine have gave me some what a since of being normal again.
I Am very sorry to hear that. I hope for what ever reason they took it is all better and your rehabilitation is going well. A few Fellers have mentioned they have watched my episodes to take their mind off whats going on in their life. Gives them a bit of a distraction. I am glad my Video's have brought you some peace. Glad to hear your doing some modeling as well :-)
@@classicmodeltrains I have diabetes, I let a stone bruse get me. What's bad I loved my job too.I work the loading dock drawings trucks for their loads one week. Then the next week I would load trucks. We use to have rail cars that would come in to be loaded, but that was before my time of going to work there. So on my n scale layout I'm building I'm kit bashing a lumber yard from Walters with a piko office building and a couple of other buildings to make something that looks like my fomor place of work. I can get wooden cable reels. But I'm going to have to 3-D print metal reels. As far as the rehabilitation goes I'm getting along well. Just having to wait for the fitting of a prostatic. Too you have me waiting to get the amp gage, and voltage gage like you have on your ho layout. That would help me out with some of these older engines I have in n scale. I recently had one that was giving me trouble. Took me 4 months to figure out it was the plastic cover around the motor to keep it from grounding out had a bad spot in it. The engine would make three laps around a circle test, and break in track then falt. Take the motor out, and test it outside the locomotive it would run with no problems. Now I have that one fixed. Now I'm working on a mini trix f unit. It never had a working light so I'm going to try, and put one in.
Just wish I had another controller. I have a new Bachmann controller, and a old model power D-cell battery operated controller. I took a wiring set for a switch, and made a testing wire from it with small alligator clips. The battery controller I left it like it was. That one makes my son mad. I can take some tracks, and a locomotive with a few rolling stock. Go somewhere that doesn't have power, and still run myself a train set. Where he can not do so.
Another 33% er. Here. I always enjoy how indpeth your videos are and telling us about the history of all the engines you work on.
Thanks for your support Jeff. I'm really glad there's info out on the internet for me to find and then tell you guys with ;-)
Super. My railroad still has one Cox EMD GP-9 low hood unit in operation. I obtained it in a trade with a friend a few weeks after he bought it brand new, because he just wasn't very happy with it, even though it ran fine. As he didn't feel like going through the hassle of returning it, we swapped locomotives. A good trade for me, as he got a Bachmann F-9 of mine, a gift from another friend, that ran quite well, but I wasn't very happy with, and I got the Geep. (My railroad uses early EMD F-7 units which have the small 36" dynamic brake fan, versus the Bachmann F-9, which has the 48" dynamic brake fan.) The two plastic wheels on the non powered truck of the Cox locomotive were already cracked, although brand new, and I filled them with MEK mixed with flour, and I also filled in the traction tire slots. I added weight, diode directional lights, various details, and new paint, and almost fifty years later, it is still in operation on my layout. It will pull about nine cars on its own without the tires, so I usually assign it and another four wheel drive diesel unit to the local freight and commuter trains. (Only my Mantua/Tyco 0-4-0 steam switcher with tender still has its traction tire, but it is great to have an 0-4-0 that will pull fifty cars.) The drive is quite good, and I have had no issues with it, even though l operate it outside in the rain and snow. It also got much quieter and smoother after about a decade of operation. Good video. Love the classics. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Yet another loco that you have made a lot better. Love it! Also I think you got the better end of the trade because I'm sure that Bachmann F unit is no longer running
33% 🙂 💙 T.E.N.
Glad you brought back some toons for different sequences like during the cleaning process.
I though that would be funny
Same body as the Walthers Trainline GP9's. Another nice video Ron!
similar.. not the same
Thanks Matt
@mattjosefczyk2579 The Trainline Geep is somewhat retooled from the Cox source. (Which is itself a low-nose "M" copy of the original Cox GP9, which was actually Athearn's GP9!)
Model Power also offered this model after Cox's departure from the market.
Hey Ron, great video. I would recommend a non silicone electric contact cleaner spray for your tracks. You can spray it and wipe it with a lint free cloth. Keeps build up and pitting from happening as well.
Thanks for the tip!
Hey Ron, nice work. Love the Classic Intro .... look like a bad ass strolling into the train cabin !! LOL,
Thanks Patrick!!
I still build 1/2A control line planes from scratch and use Cox .049 Black Widows and Golden Bees on them. I'm 43 and I think I'm the youngest guy in the hobby 😂
I made a few of those back in the day. Don't see many around anymore
I had downward performance spiral going on for years with all my locomotives. It started with a pulsing motion and eventually became dead spots. I started noticing lots of carbon build up, so I started using the Woodland Scenics cleaning system. I ended up spending most of my time cleaning the track. I finally decided to spend the money to get a CMX track cleaning car… and BAM! Not a single problem since! Everything runs like the day I bought it! Switches and crossings I thought needed replacing suddenly stopped causing stalls. The one thing that scared me off at first was the price, but when I figured out how much I was spending on all the refills and wipers for the Tidy Track, the CMX will have paid for itself within 2 years.
Thanks for this good bit of information Scott!
Hi Ron, thanks for the video. I got one of these sets for Christmas in 1977. I recently started piecing a set together. I have the locomotive and all rolling stock. Not sure if the loco runs but everything is there and it looks good. Walthers still makes the GP9 loco based on the Cox model (I got on last year). Enjoy your channel and thanks again.
That's pretty cool Ted that your putting together this set. I wished I could have found the Walthers one on their site. I didnt have an hour to search for it.
Hi Ron & it''s is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Ron & Friends Randy
Hi Randy! Thanks for watching :-)
Cool Video! Some of the Simplest Things can be the Most Complex Things!
That's true!! I'm glad you liked the video.
Go Ron Go!
:-)
As Always Great Video Sir! Another Lesson in the books! Thank You for sharing your Knowledge with us! You need to get some Classic Model Trains Merch! Sign me up for a Shirt!
Thanks for watching and thanks for the suggestion! I'll have to look into it.
Great video. 33%’r says get some sleep.
Thanks , Ron!
Thanks. Finished it up at 3:30am this morning
Wow I had a lot of different locomotives back in the day but actually never had a cox one it’s a cool one I like it and from reading other comments here that is how they run 👍
A lot of noise was had back in the day
@@classicmodeltrains yes so true 👍
33% here !! Great show
Me, too. :) Love this channel...
Thanks!!
Thank You Ron
:-)
Man you did a great job ... What a beautiful engine....
Thanks
I have 2 of these in my collection they run exactly like yours and both were a pain to get to run properly 😂
@@dalefraschetti1874 Your quite the Early Bird. Good to hear this one is running in the normal range. I really did expect it to be a real smooth runner.
Thank you for sharing.👍
Thanks for watching :-)
Hi Ron. Great video as always, feel free to release any of your videos at 4am your time as that’s 11am my time in here in the U.K. 😂All ready looking forward to seeing your next video and the next classic Model 👍
I was running 2 days late on that video. Dang headaches been keeping me down.
33/100 %er … hehe… Anyone into model trains should be subscribed ! Ron, you have an awesome channel…so glad I came across it. 👍
Thank you very much for all your support and comments :-)
Excellent job, all the way thru. Thanks
Thank you Patrick
Great job Ron. That was intense. I didn't realize that an HO model could have so many little tiny parts going on inside just to run. It's nothing like O where all that's usually needed is a couple of shots of contact cleaner to get them running again. I'm selling off my few HO engines first chance I get now and seeking therapy after that one. That's one of those episodes where I would rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy moments.
Every gauge has its positives and negatives. This one really wasn't that bad to work on. Just a learning curve for me. Next one will be twice as easy ;-)
Another great video. Things do not always go smoothly. Thanks for showing all of the problems you had to fix. Thanks for sharing. I remember Elle. Yowza. LOL
Thanks. Yes that Elle, Very kind to the eye ;-)
It’s no wonder why Cox didn’t last long in the model train business.
Another great video by Classic Model Trains. Thanks Ron
My brother got a Cox train set with a Southern Pacific GP35 which turned out to have same drive train design as my Athearn GP9.
@@scottfw7169 Did it run better than this one?
Thanks Big W! A lot of companies were pulling out at this time. the 70's was a tough time for hobby-toys. electronics was taking away all the attention.
@@bigwoz78 The 70s and 80s were some time ago, so all I can give at this point on the calendar is that it ran the same as any contemporary Athearn with the cast metal flywheels, which, yes, was much better than this one & some time in the 80s my brother asked me to repaint the shell in to the "Kodachrome" livery for the SP-ATSF merger which ended up not happening. EDIT: Oh, and being 8-wheel drive, 8-wheel electrical pickup, went a long way toward providing that much better running.
Thanks for the great content Ron I enjoy it!
Thank for watching!!
Hey Ron you should make you a small circle or oval so you can just run these old girls after fixing them to break them in or hopefully smooth them out a bit. 33%er!
Thats a good idea there Danny. I keep hoping they will be 100% after fixing and not need a "run it" but its not looking that way with them all.
Nearly everything in the 1974 line of Cox Trains items (including freight cars and caboose) are still available but from Walthers as its Trainline series. The GP9M drive line, motor and frame as well as some details have been greatly improved (the slots under the cab and long hood sides that retain the trucks and large slot for the talgo couplers now gone). The only former Cox items that Walthers hasn't reintroduced is their building kits which Walthers might not have the molds for.
I wish I could have found this stuff when looking at their site.
@@classicmodeltrains Make sure you're looking at Trainline offerings, not any of the other lines! If nothing else, look for the 931- prefix on their part numbers. (I worked at Walthers briefly just before they started Trainline, and spent a few years running a small hobby shop.)
@@fuzzyworld3 Cool! Thanks for the info
Hi Ron, thanks for sharing! I really enjoy when folks show videos of locomotive repairing and refurbishing in detail! I often wonder if this line called Big Pine Lumber is fictional or if it's actually modeled from a place? I'm in southern Oregon and there is a mountain called Onion Mountain and there is a Big Pine area on oinion Mt and it did have a logging and Mill operation many years ago! Hmmmm?
Now you got me wondering ;-). Thanks for your kind words H of H.P.!
33%-er. I was up at 4, but my 4 is your 3am. Just got around to watching, spent most of the day up at Ridgecrest packing up from the weekends show. Cool video.
This playing with model trains stuff can sure take its toll on a Feller ;-)
@@classicmodeltrains I can understand, week ago, not counting the 3 hour combine drive. 7 hrs to set up the layout (and we weren't finished. maybe Polish?) Then Friday, Saturday and Sunday working and operating trains, I iPhone said I walked 17.5 miles as of yesterday afternoon. Drove back up today and spent 4 or so hrs packing up Benny's ships and my stuff. THEN, next Saturday will drive back to help the Club pack up what's left.
@@lynnmccurdythehdmmrc2561 Goodness thats a busy schedule Lynn!!
I definitely feel your pain throughout this whole video I go through the same process every time I try to fix my own models. And they are pretty successful most of the time. I actually fixed an engine pretty identical to that and it's a 1960s era tyco mantua 5280. The model had an almost exact similar drive unit. The biggest problem with that model was the brushes on the commentator was all whack. It was actually the right side Brush that wouldn't stay on to the drive unit it kept having connection issues, Mostly short circulating. The plastic wheels are also cracked and missing their traction tires making the model run really wobbly and having very little traction. This model is so old in fact that a lot of the model's components is actually held together with rivets instead of screws which I actually replaced with some screws. The model also has some missing or broken parts off of it and it's truck covers are also been broken off because there just made out of plastic and it's metal hand railings also came loose and the front part is missing. The model miraculously does actually run though, it's not the greatest runner in the world due to it's age and tooling but I was actually surprised at myself that I was able to get a model this old up and running. The real reason why this model is so busted up is because at my local train shop they're selling $35 bargain bin full of vintage rolling stock from mostly the 60s 70s and 80s with some other unidentifiable cars and components. One of them being this engine that I swore did not cost anything or heck even a single dollar! It's just a funny story I just wanted to share. Great job at getting that old engine back up and running!
Sounds like a one eyed 3 legged dog I once knew. You have plans to make this Ol' Gal a looker once again?
@@classicmodeltrains Aww man that's the tough part. It would be cool to make a looker again but it just needs a lot of parts, especially the drain traction tires and those cracked Wheels. I do own a 3D printer so maybe I could find some parts for it however I'm not sure about this engine. But I do like my engines looking pretty and complete. Good Question
Yet another great video, nice work!
Thank you Greg
In the mid 70's I had a COX gas powered car that ran on a long string .... didn't turn, The motor was the same you see on the old COX airplanes. It was like a dune buggy with drag racing wheels on it
I remember those. Pound a nail in the ground and let it do circles on the string
@@classicmodeltrains We tried drag racing them at a concrete basketball court 🤣
Hi Ron. Good to see you, Happy Monday.
The witness program works pretty good 😉 lol.
Had a good chuckle at poor old uncle Joey, never lied to me before in my life...😂 .
This lil engine sure gave you a run for the money, wow. In the end, not too bad.
The noise it makes running, kinda sounds like a chugging engine, without having a sound card. Let's go with that.
Glad you got your furnace fixed, soon be time to use it.
Shout out to the 33%ers out there. 👏
Chat again soon, cheers 🥂 .
G.
Hello G, Thanks for stopping in for a chat ;-)
I have a few of these in my collection also. I’m glad you are working on these oldies but goodies. Saving this to my locomotive repair favorites folder. By the way, awesome brickwork on that building in the beginning. Such great detail.
I'm finding all the lost and forgotten from back in the day :-)
I tried that Sanchem grease on my track after cleaning it with mineral spirits and it REALLY WORKS! Just make sure you apply it as lightly as possible. I've been running two years on the original coat and I have only had to touch up a couple of spots. Enjoyed the video. I think you got that engine running great for what it is. If that engine was designed with a fly wheel it would run a lot smoother.
Ive heard good things about the No-ox stuff
I've used the No-Ox-Id "A Special" after cleaning with mineral spirits on an oval of steel Life-Like PowerLoc track. I, too, am at about year 2, and the only issue I've had is gunk building up in the frog flangeway on the one turnout on it. (Last week!) The rails have been quite reliably clean!
Hey Ron, thanks for the video. I’m impressed with the motor setup in the locomotive. Seems like a good way to go. Have you ever thought about putting a black pinstripe on the pickup to trim the orange from the white? I think that would look sharp. Go 33%!
The pickup is supposed to have chrome trim surrounding the white. The body and paint is real hammered out. Nothing 20K couldn't fix though ;-)
Great video Ron
Thank you!
It does sound as though the worm gears are binding with the axil gears like when you have a tight spot in the motorcycle chain you get that same sound. You might try switching the drive wheel sets position, so they are on the other worm gear who knows maybe they were matched. If that don't work pull the pin and through it then duck and cover, lol. On the bright side you now have a running locomotive, and you did a good job getting it to that point so leave it at that. Great video, Jersey Bill
Thats a pretty good idea there Jersey Bill. I will try swapping them axles. and/or test for too deep of gear lash.
Very nice job restoring this cox big pine lumber emd gp9. 33%er
Thank you Matt
My beloved Big Pine! Mine was a super strong puller. I remember it being stronger than the rest of my Tyco locos.
Right on!!
Good video Ron, wish it was out when i disassemble the same one i had! Beyond frustrating,lol. I finally got it but was unimpressed with it, other than actually getting it to run. It found a new home and im sure is being cared for by someone other than me!! 😂
Thanks Jason. I was really hoping for more out of this little guy but....yeah :-/
I use the Walthers Code 100 DCC Friendly turnouts ... I dont have issues with mine and they snap like the PECO ones do, so you can hand throw them and they stay in place
Those were just coming out when I laid down my hard earned money for the 30 peko's I bought. DANG IT!
Great video subject, Ron!
A rare bird, indeed! 🚂
I'm glad you liked the video.
Loox great again. Lot of fun watching u figure out things allways 33% I wood join the 33% club. Or maybe I already did
Thanks Brent!
Great vid...good night Ron.
Wiring? Guess I will have to wait for my bigger layout before I do all that fancy work. I miss my Atlas' :-)
Fantastic video as usual. The Airifix class 31 diesel locos of the 1970's used a very similar drive mechanism.
Thank you!
Another great video. It looks like a really cool design!
Thanks Jim. Its thought out well for sure
Another great restore job there Ron!!
Thanks Ray
my first train this one. never worked, right out of the box. i was 9 - 1979. big pine lumber box kit. still have the log crane thingy.
That's too bad. No place would warranty it?
Hi Ron. 33% 'er and then some repeat too. I picked up one of those COX crane cars. Super cheap and I will make it a project someday. I always know the babes but cannot remember their names.
Hello Gary, I remember there faces as well. Never good at names.
Great video Ron…quite the engineer/mechanic…get some sleep, eh…cheers from 🇨🇦 🍁…
Thank you David
I remember when this set was sold in Sears stores back in the 1970's.
Right on!
I totally agree with you on the walthers web sight, a disaster to navigate. I finally found what i wanted, checked outcin cart, and then they wouldnt reckonize my address for postage. Ive lived here 12 years and order from all over the world with no problems. So i had to get what i needed through ebay, and psying more for seperate orders and seperate postage to here in New Zealand. Makes things really expensive really fast
Wow! N.Z.? Holy Moly thats a shipping expense there for sure!!
@@classicmodeltrains sure is. And some on ebay don't ship here. A place in England will ship to Australia, (a independent country from the colonial) but not to NZ which is still part of the colonial England. He he. I got it posted to a proxy address in England, then forward on to me. It's a head ache. If I need lots of little items from the US. I'll get them sent to a proxy address in the US, then repackaged in to one when they all arrive, and again forwarded on to me in one parcel. Just the hopes we have to jump through to enjoy our play time. LoL 😂😋
As always Ron you transformed one cheap copy of an old good motor (the mu2 Tyco motor) in a decent runner: very good work my friend!
Hey! Theres Regis in the comments once again!! I was getting worried about you. I was thinking about you when dissembling this motor thinking it would be a good candidate for a magnet upgrade but that dang bolt goes thru the magnets so the ones I have would not work. I think its about time for a magnet upgrade video for you my Friend :-)
Thanks a lot Ron! I’m gonna appreciate it so very much! Lots of work here my friend - and not so much time to enjoy the things that I care about, like your videos… but I’m catching up!
High heat application also affects magnets. Past Ron seems to be on top of it for future Ron's benefit. Imagine designing the machinery to assemble these locos...
Yes heat, I agree. Designing tooling would be pretty cool.
33%er.... great video Ron. Thanks for sharing
Thank you James!!
Your continuity tester sounds like my oven timer. My biscuits were NOT ready yet hehehe. Also, I thought my oven was acting up….beeeppppp. Beeepppppppp.
He he!!
How about a video showing us the details of how your amp and volt meters are wired so that we can make a similar setup? Add to it the type of track and switches that you use. (Peco?)
3rd video in my list showcases how I built them gauges. Another video "this layout has to go" and it looks like I'm taking a chain saw after it talkes about the track, wiring and switches
I used to use Cox motors for model boats back in the day... I feel your hurt putting those brushes in... I have the same problems at times.. A lovely nice and quiet loco... I like the new threads you are wearing.. suits you and the channel. Elle is one hot looking lady...
Elle could sure break up a happy home ;-)
One thing that I would say good about this MU-2 clone drive is that a person could open up the drive versus the Tyco/Mantua MU-2 drive. A drill and replacement hardware (screws, washers, and nuts) are required to open up the Tyco/Mantua drive for proper servicing of the motor bearings or the traction tires. I wish Tyco/Mantua would have spent the money to do this like they did with the MU-1 drive instead of using rivets. All I know is that I have some Tyco/Mantua MU-2 drives which will require the drill and replacement hardware method to give them the proper servicing that is needed.
You got that right! They should have engineered it to allow for easy maintenance
Elle McPherson this week Ron. Cool video!
Another winner in your favor Erick. Your leading the pack in correct guess by a mile!!
Great video
Thanks Dave
Great video as always Ron! But, this is even further proof of the brushes conspiracy! I’m telling ya, need to bring back Finch and Reese from Person of Interest to get to the bottom of this lol !
He He!! :-)
Locomotive sounds like a science fiction movie where the giant bumble bee attacks!
Its definitely got a sound of its own
nice swagger intro!!
It's Ron's Classic Intro, been awhile since we seen that!
I was thinking Arnald at the beginning of "Last Action Hero" ;-)
@@classicmodeltrains 😆
nice Cox Ron! 😂 another fine video
Thanks for watching!
Opening intro ..is like classic model trains vice…lol
He He he!! CMT Vice!! I love it!!!! Not on My Layout your not!! :-)
I have a Cox engine with the Revell design sitting on my floor "in queue" to get looked at, at some point. Lots of other projects ahead of that one, though. The motor is completely seized, so it'll be a complete teardown to get it going again.
I believe my Cox military set has that same motor drive in it. Very loud. a lot like a Varney drive
I just put it on a fitting Athearn chassis, way more reliable - good show 😊
Thanks
I have two of those motors
With some extreme modifications I use two of them in one locomotive.
But, I have not solved the only four wheel pickup problems.
I haven’t run that locomotive in years…. Think I’ll go run it…
Hope she starts up and runs smooth for ya Jeb
hey ron i just wanna say ty for your advice about the magnets on the tyco mantua motors wat a difference t made faster and stronger. jon
That's great to hear, John! I'm glad that helped you.
I really like the design of this motor but apparently there's something intrinsic to it that makes it stutter after reading other viewers' posts with the same problem. All in all they can't all be good creepers but this one will be a good runner.
Keep up the great work Ron. I always look forward to your next endeavor. 😎
Thanks!! Glad you like the videos Norm. I wonder if I had a re-magnetiser and put some new life into the magnets it might cure that stutter? Hummm........
In my dad’s collection of yard sale trains he passed down to me was a Cox Championship Train set. It has a Hooker Headers boxcar, Champion spark plugs boxcar, a flat car with a race car/box, and matching caboose. Neat engine. Mine seems to run a little better than yours but sounds about the same. The box cars I think need more weight. They wobble going around corners really bad.
Excellent vid as always.👍👍
Cool your Dad gave you that cool set!
thanks.
Thanks for watching Alex :-)
nice old loco 🙂
:-)
One time at band camp.......😅😂😊
He he!!
Drive gears remind me of some Flyer S gauge diesels.
Now that you mention it yes I agree!
The Peco switches are great, but they rely on slide contacts to power the point rails and frog. If you lose continuity on those sliders it's game over. The way to fix it is to solder jumpers between the stock rails and point rails for the Insulfrog turnouts and power the frog with an electrical switch for the electrofrog turnouts. A bit extra wiring, but the results are worth it.
Thanks for the great tip!!
That one must be a newer version than the one I have, as mine has the same drive as the Tyco MU - 2 drive
This is very similar but easier to work on.
Hey ron, i’m using snap track for my layout, is this okay in the long run? Also i looked on amazon for another steam engine but i was shocked rtr models cost so much, so i’m scratchbuilding my engines,
Snap track is fine but the switches (turnouts) are less than desired. Its a good place to start but you will outgrow it after time.
@@classicmodeltrains, should i use flextrack then? If so whare do i find it?
@@bethanythedford9226 flex can be bought online. Sold in 36” lengths. Get nickel silver.
If a solar flare happens you will lose your magnet, happened to me but found it under my work bench.
Too Funny!! You had me there for a second! Love it ;-)
I wish there were vintage trains needing repair in Australia. I have built over 200 loco's from brass and white metal kits for guys in Australia over the last 20 years but it's drying up because of the quality of RTR. I am now the chief repairer for locos at my club but there too the number requiring repair has dried up. Love building, repairing/restoring locos but there just isn't the call for it here.
Well I hope you dont get layed off. Perhaps you have done your job very well and have all the loco's in the land finished up and running good now ;-)
What gauge wire are you using on your layout? Thanks!
14 ga on the buss 22 ga on the drops every 3 feet
@@classicmodeltrains Thanks! My layout is only 4X9 and I’m thinking about going with 18 gauge for everything.
As far as magnets, it depends on how it was made, old day ones were made by metals that were not as stable, so often keeper plates were kept on the ends.
Now one thing to be aware of is how much current can be drawn if there is no keeper when energized. It is why you have to be careful with solnoids
That makes since of the "Myth" :-)
I watch your UA-cam videos and this is same issue I have with my Tyco Spirit of 1776 locomotive went it ran. I also would like to restore my Spirit of 1776 locomotive, but I have been running into issues finding parts. missing coupler that had brass clip hold down. I've looked for old similar locomotives to scavenge parts from. any other suggestions? I like you detailed show.
Ive replaced a lot of couplers on my tyco stuff. If you go into my playlists you will see a playlist of nothing but tyco repairs. In them video's you should come up with some ideas after seeing how I did coupler upgrades.
I have that engine & it don`t run. I wish I had the Ron touch. 🤠
@@n4pwx just do what I did and it should come back around ;-)
Beat me to the punch. My comment was going to be, where's the Intro?😂🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲🙋
I figured I would pull that out and blow the dust off of it for awhile.
Ugh...these were a bane in my life. I went through 4 of them in a year, because the motors kept overheating ...ending in fire on the rails(even though i did keep them well maintained) and In the end, i kept them as dummies. In recent times, i ended up re-powering them with Stanton drives from northwest shortline. I had to make floors to mount them to. Overall, now they run pretty good and haul over 50 freight cars each....without heat issues,lol.
Wow! This motor got hot as well. makes me wonder if thats a design flaw now. Pretty cool you still have the shells pulling on your layout :-)
@@classicmodeltrains Yeah, I always had issues with those particular motors, never any other types. I am glad I kept the shells. They have some sentimental value, considering I've owned them since age 9,lol.
that picture on the wall behind you is that nick offerman?
@@Gregtrainmaster Ron Swanson. A character from Parks and recreation on tv. Played by nick offerman.
@@classicmodeltrains read the book paddle your own canoe
The other product COX is known for besides thier gas powered airplanes are thier "Mini Motorific" line of electric motor toys.
Never heard of those. Is that something from the early 60's?
@classicmodeltrains I believe they cam out in the middle to late 60's. My uncle Johnny gave to me a self propelled pontoon plane around 1973 or so.
Hachette now sells these in a Duetsche Bundesbahn Green paint scheme, along with a F9 in Deutsche bundesbahn... Strange choice.
Is Hachette a manufacturer over in Europe?
@@classicmodeltrains They are a company that offers die cast models, and magazines where you get parts of a model and you have to buy them all to build the whole thing, including a Model train layout. they comission stuff from chinese companies, using ancient molds from Cox, Lima and rivarossi and others. You will spend over $1k thereabout to build an entire model, like their lighted Titanic for example. Basically like Bradford exchange.
I recently fix an old mantua F7 and it have exactly the sane mecanic inside, boggy, and motor combo. Pastic wheels was also cracked. 🙄
Yup! I noticed the similarities right away
Short had to be the brush wire
Yup. Missed it when I was re-assembling.
Elle McPherson
3rd feller to get her right!
Sounds like the real loco lol
It does dont it! Thats kinda what I was thinking :-)