Why Is This Walthers Trainline Dash-8 Running so poorly?
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- Опубліковано 12 лип 2022
- Vintage store find. Barely gets out of it's own way. Cleaning and Rescuing a soon to be "Classic"
How to remoter a Walthers Trainline
How to service a Walthers Locomotive
Walthers Dash-8 repair
how to repair Walthers locomotives
How to repair Trainline locomotives
#classicmodeltrains
#waltherstrainline
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Mailing Address: Classic Model Trains
1507 Old Hardin Road
Billings, Mt. 59101
@classicmodeltrains
My second channel mentioned link below.
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Yep, that's where I am now. Getting close to retirement and cracked open all of my train boxes after 40 years. Did my inventory, found lots to fix and so far so good. This was very helpful, Ron and I look forward to more of your videos.
Close? Just remember to keep yourself busy so you dont "check out" 2 months into retirement like them stories you sometimes hear about other Fellers who retire :-)
Thank goodness you were so persistent with your diagnosis. Excellent repair
Thank you!
Keep the learnin’ coming Ron…great video and repair…
Thanks 👍
I’ve had many a Walthers model train in my lifetime, and I can say that they are all good models. The Trainline and Mainline models are very good and mechanically sound, with 5-pole motors and all wheels driven, although they lack ball bearings. The Proto line is where they really shine. They have ball bearings on all wheels, nice weighty chassis, all wheels driven, and an incredible amount of detail for their prices. The best way to go about buying one is getting it from a hobby shop or second hand, as Walthers has marked up the prices by quite a bit. The DCC ready ones are usually the best for cost-effectiveness. As for the hair in the drive, that is a classic sign of a case of someone running the model train on their carpet.
Thanks for the input. I agree with your statements :-)
Great video, Ron. The walthers locomotives that I find difficult to access the gears inside the trucks, is the Walthers SD45 from around 2003 or 2004. Those are a radically different truck design from the 4 axle locos that closely resemble Athearn trucks. I want to get inside them, but not break anything in the process.
Oh wow! Now I have another loco I must find and take apart. Thanks for the good info Michael :-)
Not sure how I missed this one, but this is another great video. I have a few Mainline locomotives, so this will help with my tuneup projects. Thank you.
Hello Bob!
I guess the experts aren't where you expect them to be after all? Good call on the motor, especially after the evidence of all the hair collection in the trucks. I wonder what the insides of the old motor actually looked like. Excellent work, excellent find...
Great point, Thanks for watching Brad!!
Actually some Locos come from the factory with these really slow high pull power motors. Check to see how many poles your original was it will tell you if it was used for pulling huge trains with no real high top end which I suspect is what you had. The one you replaced it with was probably a 5 or 7 pole if I recall the ratios correct.Higher # of poles faster top speed less torque. I might have it backwards been a long time.
@@animalyze7120 the old motor is a 5 pole. The commutator was very dirty. Normally on open frame motors a guy can get in there and clean them, but since this was a sealed up can motor with the flywheels pressed onto the armature shaft, the motor is pretty hard to disassemble and service without damage.
@@animalyze7120 the more poles the higher the torque and the lower and smoother the low end speed.
I had a Walthers trainline loco back in the late 90's, good runner and great model to practice on super detailing with. I love the cheaper models because you could practice weathering skills and techniques on them without worrying about messing up a high dollar model. These days with the prices for a new car, I would prefer the older stuff, heck, one Walthers proto car cost about 30 or more dollars. I could get three or more Athearn blue box car kits back in 1999 and enjoy putting them together.
Thanks for sharing. Yup, practice on the inexpensive stuff :-)
Ebay has a lot of blue box, type cars. A lot still new to put together too. Have seen some 3 for around $20. If that helps.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and humor. Persistence should always be rewarded with a cold beer.
You got that right! Thanks for your kind words :-)
I have one of these in a UP scheme. I may have to pull it apart and rebuild it. This is another great reference video. I appreciate the time you take to show all the steps.
Thanks Tom for watching and commenting on my Vid's!!! Good luck with your U.P.
Really love your style and channel! You have humor that reminds me of Vice Grip Garage. Nice job on this engine! I’ve had a good time with the train line engines, though I have seen some of their FAs with zinc rot present in the frame. Walthers never seems to compromise on running quality and mechanism design, and even their entry level engines run fantastic. Look forward to more!
Thank you! Ive been bing watching VGG for the last 3 months. I'm probably picking up some of his style. He is very interesting to watch. I'm a motorhead also. :-)
@@classicmodeltrains vgg is awsome,so is your chanell,best model train chanell on youtube!
I have noticed that you have picked some of VGG's attitudes as well as commentary. I watch VGG also when I'm not watching your channel. Keep up the great work. Cheers from eastern TN
Beer box gauges for the win! Good for you for not giving up and getting it back on the rails. It's a good looking unit for sure,
BEER BOX's!! there not just for holding beer anymore. Thanks for commenting :-)
I reach for my cell phone when dis assembling thing for repair and take pictures as I take it apart. That way I have pictures of how it's supposed to be when I put it back together. God job.
Yup! A great idea :-)
hi ron !!! great stuff... and we can learn from you again !!! here is a tip when working with the "micro" screws... i have several neodymium magnets which are VERY STRONG, so i rub the end of my small headed screw driver against the magnet for a minute or so... this allows you to fit the micro screw into the phillips or slotted head of the screw and that way you can actually insert the screw into the hole much easier. also, this helps the dropping and finding problems of "micro work"... blessings to you, ron my friend !!!
Thanks Dennis for the kind words and a really great idea. I'm sure I have a few magnets hiding around here somewhere.
Luv the humor !
Thanks
Hy Ron, thanks for your very fantastic shows. Im from Germany and beeing modelrailwayer for now 50 years. After I looked youtube I find my interest of classic us locos. Just happy to find you, hopefully for much more videos, I watch them all and have very much input to learn the inner live of US stuff. Regards Rainer
Thank you Rainer for watching and supporting my channel. It's great to "visit" with modelers from all over the world. Greetings from Montana, USA.
your best presentation so far. an excellent re-motoring job. you should open that old motor to see what's wrong with it. thanks for both an educational and entertaining video. A++!
Thank you very much!
Hey Ron! I recently bought a Walthers Trainline GP9M new from Amazon, and right out of the box, the engine runs good, but it squeaks like no other… I’ve tried oiling the drive shafts, etc… but the squeaking persists. Maybe it’s a dry axle? Anyways keep up the good work, I love the content! Very informative! Love it. Take care, Ron!
Hope you find the problem with the new Loco. Thanks for your kind words!!
@@classicmodeltrains Yep. Turns out it was a dry axle…
This is the first video I have seen from your channel and I have subscribed. Well done on giving that Walthers Dash 8-40C a new lease of life. Keep up the great videos. I look forward to seeing more of them.
All the best from Ireland
Peter.
Thanks for the sub and your kind words Peter. Greetings from Montana, USA. Your the first "Mate" I've had contact with from Ireland. The Google machine says I could have used the word "Mucker" as Irish slang for friend. Said it's used more in Northern Ireland. Well I'm rambling on once again. Welcome aboard!!
@@classicmodeltrains No bother and to be honest mate. My family come from all over the isle. I really do like the American trains and I am starting off in HO scale again after taking a break in 2022 :). I am looking forward to more videos from you on this amazing channel. Keep up the great work buddy.
All the best
Peter.
Excellent - Thank you!
You are welcome!
This dude’s jokes just catch me off guard 😂 funny dude
Thanks ;-)
Nice Beard, Ron..... nice name!
Wished my beard grew in as nice as your does Ron :-)
The little plastic covers on the light board are for solderless connections. You just strip back about an 1/8" and put the wire in the hole. Then slip the plastic cover on and it will hold the wire in place.
You should get yourself a roll of yellow Polyimide Kapton High temperature anti static tape for the inside of the trains. It won't get sticky and in 20 years you can still remove it. It's about $7.00 a roll that will last for years.
Thanks Tom, I will look into that
Love your work! I learned a lot.
Awesome, thank you!
For a budget model, this looks quite well engineered.
It really is a pretty nice loco!
Great job restoring that loco! I have 4 Trainline locomotives and they all run great, someone was not kind to that one.
Thank you very much! This one seemed a bit abused :-)
Thanks for another great video. Lots of fun.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job Ron !!!! 👌👍
Thanks 👍
Great job on this one, very informative and entertaining!
Glad you enjoyed it!
It looks good and now it runs great keep up the good work :)
Thanks, will do!
That does work. Water and brushed motors. We break in RC cars motors that way. It does excellent job cleaning brushes and com.
Yup! Ive done a few video's showing that process
Another Great 1
Thanks again!
Nice job! I love dash 8's
Thank you :-)
Good work, I was brought up on Athearn Locos and totally loved them the design was later used by Proto and Walthers. They needed some tuning when new just to prevent future problems but even 40+ years later they always run. Great video this is the stuff Train enthusiasts need for the hobby.
P.S Those old tyco pancake motors while tricky are easy to repair but they do the same thing yours here did, all of a sudden run real slow for no apparent reason even when fully cleaned up.
Thanks for your kind words. Athearn BB was "my" gold standard back in the 80's. I'm glad there so many still around and in good shape. Yup them PT's can be finicky :-)
Nice job,fun video
Thank you Dave!
Excellent! I have never seen an Ho Scale train repair. I now know why I play with S Scale and above lol! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! Just put up a "S" scale video this morning.
Love Watching your Videos very Educational.
Thanks for watching!
That loco is awesome 😎
thanks
Those engines have been around since the mid-90s under the train line series
Yup!
Excellent video! There is more to the prototype story of the B40-8 though and that is the wide cab variant known as the B40-8W (also made by Walthers), the "W" of course referring to the full width nose and cab and was a specifically built for the Santa Fe Railway for use on their high speed, time sensitive intermodal trains and painted in the road's resurrected red/silver warbonnet scheme (dubbed the Superfleet scheme) and was produced from 1990 to 1991. It's not exactly known what the top speed of those particular locomotives was though, it ranges from the standard top speed of the Dash 8 line of 65mph but there have been some reports that the top speeds of the Santa Fe B40-8Ws was in the 75 to 80mph range! Back to the model though, I never thought of using a new Proto motor in these things, that's a big help, I've got a similar locomotive that I aquired off of Ebay (it also came with an Atlas B40-8 as well) and come to find out that the motor had been yanked out of it and turned into a dummy unit! This video just gave that locomotive new hope to once again run under its own power, thanks for sharing!
Hello Randall, Thanks for sharing that great information about the prototypes. I'm glad I was able to offer up fresh ideas to get one of your models back into service. Thanks for supporting and commenting on my video :-)
You make nice videos!
FWIW-years ago had a Bachman GP-30. Ran loud and rough. The original motor was a Mashima can knock-off. It vibrated badly because somehow during manufacture the armature ended up under a drill press where somebody had drilled a 1/4" x 1/4" divot in it! An actual Mashima fixed the problem.
Thank you for your kind words. Weird how somebody drilled into that cheap can motor. Glad you got it running :-)
Good job again, Ron. You are the engine man. Being up in Billings, BNSF ought to be your mainline!
Thanks 13th, Our local RR was Montana rail link. Just got bought out, or taken over, or whatever they do to BNSF. The town was started by the Northern Pacific RR way back in the day. :-)
Another great video Ron! Walthers has relaunched the B40-8 (or Dash 8-40B, whatever), now in its Mainline series. This Mashima clone motor in the locomotive was first used by Atlas in its old U33/36C and, after that, in its C30-7. In my personal experience this is one of the best motors used by Atlas, Life-like (Proto 1000) and Walthers in their locomotives in the past. I use it to repower some Athearns with the old C truck (SD7/9, UxxC, SD45…) with great results (low start working voltage, low current consumption, very good torque). So I suggest you to open the bad motor, in order to (try to) recover it. If you do it (with good results, I hope!), please make a video!
congratulations by the way: 900 plus followers! You’re doing great!
Greetings Regis! You sure know your motor history, and posses an incredible amount of knowledge on them. Thank you for sharing it. Also thank you for the info on all the can motor stuff you sent me. I picked this motor replacement up locally because I needed to finish up this video. Perhaps in the future I can order up a wide range of motors to have on hand. The commutator was all carboned up. could not make good current flow. Of course this was not found until the flywheels were pulled and motor opened up. pulling the flywheels also pulled the armature shaft out of the windings. I pretty much knew if I disassembled the motor it would no longer be serviceable.
@@classicmodeltrains It’s a pity that the motor is irrecoverable my Friend… but now you know where you can find others like it in a cheaper way. Congratulations again for the video and for your increasing followers!
Picked up a sp one 35 bucks at a train show, here to find out how to take it apart for maintenance
I hope the video was helpful and your loco is running like a champ
@@classicmodeltrains mine is noisy, it ran from the start but the wheels were black with dirt
Pure entertainment!
Thanks Dave
I like you style.
Thank you very much
Great video, kind of surprised that the hobby store said that motor was fine, mine actually told me my one motor was junk and they got me a new one.
Thanks. I was surprised also. Showed them the "before I cleaned it" video. It did run a bit faster than the middle video of the "after I cleaned it". The commutators were all carboned up. not making good contact. Of course cant get in there and clean them like "the good ol days". Thanks for commenting :-)
Almost to 1,000 subs . Great video !
Thank you! Hoping in a few weeks I'll hit the 1K milestone :-)
@@classicmodeltrains You are welcome. Looking forward to it.
good job i have repaired a lot of locos but do not own any walthers engines now i know how to fix them if i pick up any thanks again looking forward to more videos
Glad to help
Walthers has become quite the monopoly.
Yes they have.
Concerning motors, I have tried submerging them in water while they are running with no ill effects in an attempt to clean those types that can not be opened. The motor I tried on was as a Roco can motor. It did not run any better after the cleaning. I got the video on how to attempt this off of UA-cam. Hearns Hobbies was the provider of this tutorial.
Thanks for sharing some good info. Too bad it didn't work like the urban legend claims :-)
Its Dash 8 40B or B40-8 i believe. Can go either depending on the railroad or the person.
Thanks
See ya, Mr. Grizzly Adams. I mean Ron ! 😅
I was going thru a "Phase" :-D
Hu yah Ron had to Chuckle many ppl wouldn't know about "Driveline timing " or phasing OBTW I'll bet you have. Batt.Cable puller, bet you could ....with some lite mods. Keep-um rolling...
Hello Bernard, Thanks for commenting. Modified battery cable-end puller is a great idea! Thanks :-)
I never realized this but the train line GP9M shell is from cox. Same with model power, who got absorbed into Lionel btw
Yup. some of these molds have been around the block a time or two
@@classicmodeltrains also I just bought one of these dash 8's for $20 from a train store, runs like new
We need an episode on the walthers evil FA.
I need to scare up some more Walthers loco's
Ron, have you ever made a video on how you installed and connected both your volt and amp meters? I for one would be interested in knowing. Thanks for taking the time out to do you!!
Yes there is a video about that. It’s like the 3rd video I made on this channel.
Hello Ron, I got a Bachman GE E60 CP Electric today. Great fun yes but I wont run after oil. Bachman is no good at all. Kenneth
Hello again Kenneth. Sounds like you oiled it and then it quite running? Perhaps too much oil in the motor and the brushes and commutator are fouled. I agree them Bachmann's are poor quality
Sealed motors can be cleaned. If you run it in small glass water. I do this with new motors I get for RC cars. Break in process.
Yup. Ive done a few video's doing that to the motors but im using jewelry cleaner.
Today i got a walthers trainline locomotive from amazon for less than $80 and it seems really good. Im new to this stuff so I only have lifelike junk to compare it to but it was smooth, quiet and seemed strong. Only thing is the trucks don’t articulate enough to work on my tight track. I may send it back or keep it for future use, i just dont know yet.
All 4 axle locomotives can handle 18" radius curves. Some 6 axle can but they prefer 22". What kind of locomotive did you get?
@@classicmodeltrains a 4 axle Santa Fe #2050 HO scale. I used the flexible track so the radius is probably more than 18 degrees
@@BillyBanana75 Sounds like you might have a good idea on what's going on. Open them curves up will make a big difference.
@@classicmodeltrains unfortunately I cant but its working good enough. I watched your coupler upgrade video, do you think body mounted couplers are best? I may change mine over.
I think I would have taken back down to the shop and showed them how much faster and better it runs with the new motor. But, then again they would probably say you put a faster motor in.
I showed them the video on my phone of the "after" the Guy's just went "Hummmm"
15:02 I see a Burlington northern f7a to the left of your shoulder, by chance is it a lifelike road number 9790?
I'm not sure. It is no longer on the display and I dont know what box its being stored in right now. Sorry :-/
@@classicmodeltrains it’s ok
I have two Trainline FA2's and I ran one it has a very loud gear noise and the other has a motor just like you have in your model. I replace the motor for a China motor I bought from ebay and it is running much better.
Hello William, Sounds like I need to go Ebay shopping and pick up a handful or 2 of these china motors to have on hand. Lots of people are telling me about them. Thanks for commenting and watching my channel :-)
TY, does Budweiser have a patten on that beer box gauge.
More than likely. I had to fly under the radar so they wouldn't find out I didnt pay my licensing fee :-)
Northwest Shortline sells the proper puller for the flywheels.
Cool! I will have to check them out :-)
Note that the Dash-8 can't be from a 1970s Cox mould because, as you say immediately after, the Dash-8 line didn't exist until the late '80s. And, yeah, I don't understand why GE decided to turn "-8" into "Dash-8". 'Cos everybody needs a "Dash dash 8 dash forty B".
It's been awhile since I researched for this video. Cant remember what I was referencing. Perhaps Walters has the original mold and updated it? IDK. But yes the name is a bit wordy :-)
I like your content and style Ron! :). Great video again! I just acquired a Model Power GP9 and had a while ago picked up a Walthers GP9. Same shell mold as the Cox GP9 which was copied in part from the high nose Athearn GP9. Guess if it’s good copy and paste, or recycle. Currently fixing up a Tyco C-430. What gauge wire did you use for the hand rails you created? I have tyco stantions but not rails for it. Take care and all the best from you neighboring state to the west!
Hello EC! thanks for your kind words once again :-) I've picked up a supply of wire from the local hobby shop ranging from .010" up to .022". I have a set of tyco rails here and they measure .025". I usually use the largest diameter wire that will fit thru the stanchion holes and that don't "look" to thick. Been HOT here over to your east. pushing hundy's the last week. At least were not on fire.........yet :-) All the best to you also!
@@classicmodeltrains Thanks for the wire info!!! You have us beat on heat only into mid 90s here then down to 61 tonight. No fires here yet either though that’s just a matter of time.
@@ecidaho yup! Dang fire season.
You can make sun visors for the windows.
I Feller sure could. I would end up breaking them off though. :-)
I feel sorry for trains stuck in antique stores. They dont belong there, they need a layout to live on and be operated! Found one of my TYCO Rocky Mountain engines there, for a good price. Usually the antique stores price their trains like gold, way higher than train show value. Nice repair work. That would be a piece of cake to upgrade to Kadees.
I agree with you, Some antique store finds are way to overpriced, and the seller is never there to negotiate prices. I did install kadee's. Don't care for those plastic knock off's. Thanks for watching :-)
Ironically, the trucks falling off the frame when you pick it up is actually more prototypical.
Too funny :-)
You may wanna try rewinding the motor.
Doing that is a bit tedious.
Also try remagnetizing the magnets.
Or you could replace the magnets.
I’ve rewound several motors and/or replaced the magnets and those motors are better than new.
I’d rather spend a little time and a couple dollars rebuilding the motor than upwards of 50 bucks plus for a new factory fresh motor.
I'm currently looking for enameled wire to do motor rewinds. Need to find out what gauge of wire to use.
@@classicmodeltrains
I usually buy the magnet wire off Amazon or Ebay.
Sometimes it hard to find the size I want.
I use 25 or 30 or 35 or 40 gauge.
It depends on what size the motor is or what I expecting the motor to accomplish.
I don’t rewind for speed.
I rewind for torque.
Govern you efforts accordingly.
Where did you get the Fiberglas pencil? Another great video.
Amazon. 3 of them for 5 or 6 bucks I think. Thanks for your nice words :-)
John when you look them up, put in Fiberglass Scratch pen or brush, if you don't put scratch in they won't come up
@@barnfulloftrains Found and ordered some. Thanks
Hi I watched your Video on the Walther's Trainline Dash-8 40B,How long ago did you get this engine? I am thinking of getting one for myself. I found one on eBay a ATSF Dash-840B ,So is it worth buying this engine?
I picked this up last summer I think. They are a good loco. No worries on buying another for me.
I have a few athearn bb engines that do this now to . They ran great for years then suddenly they need to be nearly full power and they still run slow . I've cleaned them out several times . Really doesn't help . No idea whats going on at this point
Hows the magnets? still a lot of magnetism in them? one of the Armature windings could be open as well.
@@classicmodeltrains never thought to check that . Not sure what the other thing is . Lol i'll look into those though . Thanks for the tip
I want it
:-)
I have a walthers Train line csx boxcar that I’m trying to make into a review video
Right on!
I have a atheren john deere gp38 that has plastic pins in place instead of screws
:-)
The fix for those is to buy a(new)loose Kato drive. OVR stocks them.🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲
I was looking at the Kato's that were at the LHS. None of them were close to this one. I'll have to check out this OVR you mention. Thanks :-)
@@classicmodeltrains OtterValleyRR is local shop for me but not for alot who shop there. 25+ UA-camrs had a meet and greet there this summer. Including DJ Trains from Merica. Check my channel for the footage. Also Tim, from They Make It Like That. Tim's is great coverage of the event. Drone footage too.
I have one of those, indeed is fast as slug😂😂😂😂
Some others have commented that is just the way that loco performed. I know it had a very dirty armature. No way to clean it. Motor was destroyed attempting to get flywheels off the armature shaft. That new motor sure brought it around :-)
Same I broken trying to get those...
Hi. I’m new to train layouts and I just started my 1st walthers BNSF last night. It’s a DCC so I’m controlling it via wifi on my phone. I got it working and it ran for a good 2 hours. I was all excited till a day later I try starting her up and she is not responding at all. I tried contacting walthers but I’m still waiting for their email on troubleshooting tips. I’m pretty bummed out cause I spent a couple months just building structures and getting everything ready. Is there anyway I can send you my train for service. ? I’m guessing it’s a shorted decoder. Like I said I’m a newbie to trains.
join some ho scale model railroad groups on Facebook. I like "Budget Model Trains". its a large group. ask them fellers for help. Some are so knowledgeable they can probably figure it out for you with a few questions. I'm really against DCC for beginners just for this reason your experiencing. There very difficult to figure out why it won't "GO". straight DC is quite a bit easier to learn to model with, then after time advance to DCC. Don't be so fast to blame the decoder, unless you saw smoke come out of it. It could be your bluetooth, network, software, etc, etc. Perhaps use a dedicated DCC controller with out all that fancy wireless stuff. If these idea's don't get you going I'm open to taking a look at it for you.
@@classicmodeltrains I finally found the problem. In the settings of the mobile throttle, I had to type the engine number and walla! She’s back!! You are right though. DCC is a bit complicated for beginners. Ill be joining groups on fb and I just subscribed to your channel. I have to say , I’m hooked already,, I’m looking for an Amtrak DCC now 😂
@@tzef73 I’m glad you got her going again!!
Ironically enough, you could probably stick the bad motor in an unmodified Athearn Hustler chassis/drive and cut its top speed down from 300+ mph to a more "reasonable" 50 mph!
Ha Ha... yes, sounds like a good idea :-)
I'm pretty sure there is NO REAR headlight.... 🤣
Honestly I did not want to call it a Butt light. What should it be referred to as?
Judging by all the crude, safe to say you bought it off a model railrugger. 🤣
(Edit): your layout is looking nice!
Hello Gunslinger, I almost spit out my coffee when I read "Rail Rugger" that's funny $hit right there!! Thanks for the nice comment :-)
@@classicmodeltrains yea found this term in a meme once, funny shite I tell ya lol.
Ok have a ho walters engine it just sits and flashes makes a little noise of powering on as I shut transformer off what now
It's hard to diagnose problems long distance. I can only advise watch some more of my video's and learn how I go about diagnosing them, and cleaning them up. If its a DCC I cant help you much there.
Hi I have a amtrack FP45 I don’t need it would you like to add to your collection
Sure! always looking for new (old) stuff to work on and showcase :-)
pls take apart the old sealed motor...
The old motor was taken apart off camera. The commutator was really gummed up. Destroyed the windings trying to (improperly) remove the flywheels.
Really always just called it an eightfortyb
I'd follow along with that!! :-)
Try a eBay motor swap you can buy motors for cheap and five or six pole motors I'd watch that
I need to look into that. Quite a few people have mentioned it.
Because ge made it so long ago
:-)
It's GE garbage
:-)
My Walthers trainline engines are totally different!
I suppose they vary from year to year
@@classicmodeltrains I have one open right now. No weight on top. My bachmans have that surrounding deal….🤷
Really enjoying your videos and your 'style'.. My dad had me hold a flashlight while he worked on his cars back in the 1970's. He eventually had to hide his tools as I needed to find out how things worked and fix that didn't. I eventually got pretty skilled at using butter knives as tools.
I know the feeling as a young feller who should know nothing in some situations. Just last year the experienced service tech worked on our 1973 forced hot air oil burner and dang nearly killed us with 3 visits. At one point when I was suggesting that he had wired the blower wrong of the 2 options it can be, he was telling me that the light puff of warm air coming from the registers was normal? Once I went through and replaced the 2 new components the techs had damaged installing on my old rig and a proper rewiring, it's been running well.
I don't participate on Facebook but just looked at your page and saw you are dabbling in N scale, which is the scale I play with. Here is an excellent resource for historical data on models produced in N that is quite phenomenal. www.trovestar.com/generic/index.php?Collection=4&Body+Style=&Brand=&Production+Type=&Manufacturer=&Road+or+Company+Name=135438&Series+Name=&Item+Category=Locomotives&Model+Type=Diesel
Hope that worked? Sorry not so skilled at THIS stuff. Again, really enjoy your videos and hope you keep em coming.
Andrew
Thanks for your kind words, and supporting my channel. Also for the link to old N scale stuff, I will check that out :-)