ECGS Clamshell CV Axle Bushing Install
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- Опубліковано 9 гру 2018
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*PLEASE READ THIS AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video, we show you how to remove the front differential driver side CV axle needle bearing and replace it with a bushing that East Coast Gear Supply makes. We are performing this on a 3rd Gen 4runner with a 7.5" clamshell. This repair would be the same for a 1st Gen Tacoma.
ECGS found a flaw with how the Toyota carriers are made. The spider gear does not have a machined surface inside the carrier to rest against and that causes excessive movement of the spider gear. When you lift your truck or SUV and put the CV axle at a more extreme angle, the play within the carrier allows excessive pressure to be put on the needle bearing the CV shaft rides on and that needle bearing was not made to handle that type of load. The result is people can experience a bad vibration and a roaring sound.
ECGS got an idea from ARB that uses a bushing instead of a needle bearing inside the lockers they sell. They decided a fix for the Toyota carriers would be to replace the needle bearing with an oil impregnated bronze bushing to greatly reduce the play the CV shaft has within the carrier. Their idea worked and this is a great fix.
**Here's a link to the ECGS website where you can order the bushing, removal and installation tools and also find links to the videos I mentioned they made.
eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-144...
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...
**Here's a cool tool from the Wit's End company. The 18" handle makes it much easier to drive in the ECGS bushing. The seal driver paired with the 18" handle is awesome for driving in the differential seals. I highly recommend this set.
Toyota 4WD IFS Output Shaft Seal Driver
absolute-wits-end.com/extende...
*6 Ton Jack Stands -
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*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chock
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*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun)
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*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
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*Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set
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*Rotary Hammer Chisel Set - (has slim chisels like I used to start the process of getting the axle nut hub cover removed) amzn.to/2OmiMCe
*Chisel & Punch Set - (nice set that has the two cold chisels used to help remove axle nut cover)
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*Ball Pein Hammer
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*Brass Hammer - (To get ECGS bushing started into differential and used to strike brass drift to drive bushing into differential) amzn.to/2QS3Ay7
*OTC Long Prybar Set - (To drive CV axle into differential)
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*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set - (used a shorter pry bar to knock CV axle from differential)
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*Straight Needle Nose Pliers - (To straighten cotter pins for removal and bend the new ones)
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*Knipex Diagonal Cutters - (To lever out cotter pins and cut off excess of new one installed)
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*Large Metric Impact Socket Set (29mm-38mm) - (has 35mm socket for CV axle nut)
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*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set
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*1/2" Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
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*OTC Front End Service Kit - (used 2 pullers from this)
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*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (used 3/8" ratchet. These ratchets are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
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*Telescoping Magnet Pick-up Tool - (15 lb pull capacity)
- ( to assist placing extraction nut behind needle bearing) amzn.to/35LM4jo
*Brass Drift Set - (used a large brass drift in conjunction with the seal driver kit to install bushing)
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*Tekton 22mm Combination Wrench - (To turn extraction tool nut to pull needle bearing out)
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*OTC 4507 Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set - (used in conjunction with brass drift to drive ECGS bushing into the differential) amzn.to/2D7BFT1
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet - (To tighten lower balljoint castle nut. This ratchet is super functional and will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*Plastic Mallet
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases. - Авто та транспорт
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
01/22/19- ECGS now has the updated tool available for sale so you should not need to alter the tool in any way to have it work for you to remove the needle bearing. You can disregard the information below unless you happened to buy a used original tool off somebody.
12/11/18- I sent ECGS this video to get their opinion on what we experienced using their removal tool. The following is a response from Chase Perry @ ECGS:
The T8 and the T9 fit fine, our video was of a T8 they drop in. The 7.5 tolerances are much tighter the gap between the side gear and needle bearing is not as much, so the tool struggles to go in. We have redesigned the 7.5 tool by making it a little thinner and the OD a little smaller which should solve the problem but this is only an issue on the 7.5 however the bevel can be helpful on all the tools. The redesigned tool will be available in 3-4 weeks, probably at the beginning of 2019. If you're interested in buying an oil seal through them, the seals they sell are Toyota OEM seals.
12/10/18 - I spoke on the phone with Seth @ ECGS this morning and we talked about the issue with the extrication tool they make. He did say they know about the problem and they are currently re-designing the tool. If you do happen to have the older version of the tool, just take a little bit of the length off the nut and try to fit it in the differential. If it's still too tight, take a little more material off. Just err on the side of taking too little off at first and keep test fitting until you get the nut down to the right size to fit in. You just want to avoid removing too much material and then not have the nut grab the needle bearing very well. Seth also said the experience with driving the bushing in is varied. Some people have a very easy time installing it while others have the experience we had requiring more force to drive it in.
Seems you could just as easily use a blind bearing puller (which many already have or able to rent) and skip their tool all together.
@@DP-np5mm Maybe that would work. ECGS did re-design the tool so hopefully it's easier to insert behind the needle bearing. If you give the blind bearing puller a try, let us know how it worked for you. Thanks for the suggestion.
Hi Timmy-
Ya, I had to do some heavy
chamferring" of the 4 corners to allow the tool to drop right in.
@@ken85225 You must have gotten one of the old tools. I used the updated one recently and it went in without a fight.
I'm actually having the same issue you guys had and I just bought the ECGS bushing and removal tool a few days ago and this is May 2022. I'll try a few more times with some tapping before I start using the grinding wheel. Man, this is so frustrating.
I love how every time I need to fix something on my 4runner I can always find a video on your channel for it , I love it , thanks again for a quality videos helps alot,
You're welcome. Great to hear our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching!
Detailed explanation and excellently filmed.
Thanks Dave. We're glad you think so. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Fantastic video, so informative, great camera shots, great lighting. Very well done, thanks!
Thanks Darrel. We appreciate the compliment. Yours very welcome and Happy Wrenching.
Thank you for the very informative video! Appreciated you took the time to explain things thoroughly as well as provided torque specs! A+ video for sure
Thanks Albert. We appreciate the nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
Just did this yesterday on my Tacoma, used a lot of the info here to do it. Thank you for all the detail!
You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out.
Thank you for making such an in depth tutorial, you’ve given me the confidence to get this part on order!
You're very welcome. ECGS redesigned the extraction tool, so you should have no issues with the needle bearing removal. Good luck with the job.
Timmy thanks for this video and for showing all the caveats of this job. ECGS makes it look so easy..
With their new improved tool, extracting the needle bearing shouldn't be a big deal. But, driving in that bushing wasn't easy and the way we did it in the video was the only way I could see it working. The bushing for us didn't slide in easy at all. You need to do firm blows with a hammer and that can't be done in the tight confines of the control arm. We really needed to extend out further so we could do hard enough blows with the hammer and that's why we decided to marry up the brass drift to the seal driver tool. Because of this, it really makes this a two-person operation. One person holding the seal driver against the face of the bushing sleeve while also holding the brass drift against the end of the seal driver handle. I suppose a person could do this on their own but I would imagine there would be lots of cursing involved. If you have somebody that can help you with driving in the bushing, that's what I highly recommend you do.
👏👏👏👏👏 honestly the best do it yourself explanation I've seen. Very detailed down to not destroying the rubber on the tie rods and ball joints. Plus giving directions for people that don't have a friend to help lol.
Thank you Joshua. We really appreciate your nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
Best video yet ( have seen four ). Thank you.
Thanks! We're glad you like it and you're very welcome.
Excellent video! Thanks for all the help. Wasted hours trying to get the removal tool to fit. Wish I had watched this video first. If you are installing the ECGS bushing make sure you watch this entire video.
Thanks Paul. ECGS did update the tool shortly after we shot this video but I have not had the opportunity to try out the new and improved removal nut they reengineered. I'm guessing you had the original tool as well and that's why it fought you.
Must be nice to have a friend! The only things I spend more time on than rigging up ways to hold brakes are swearing and bandaging. Great video, really really helpful
Yes, having an extra set of hands definitely makes a lot of these jobs easier. Glad you found the video helpful. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you guys for this video it will help everyone a lot. This is the detailed video i believe everyone needs. Were not going to see any of this good stuff on t.v.
You're welcome Mike. We're glad you like the video. Wow, you consider us better than TV. That's saying something. Thanks!
This video is what I needed! Perfect. Thank you!
craig cook #sicmods... it’s what we do.
Excellent presentation. Words and pictures baby!! Perfect explanation of the issues AND the resolution alongside carefully thought out video and imagery of your steps. You guys are going to make a (shady NO - shade tree) mechanic out of me! Subscribed!
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! Auto Mechanics is something everyone can do. With the Right Information, Right Tools and Right Level of Patience, you can be a very successful DIY Auto Mechanic. Thanks for subscribing and Happy Wrenching!
Thanks Guys! This video was a great resource as I performed this job in my driveway this weekend.
You're very welcome Paul. Glad our video helped you out.
As a Landcruiser and Tacoma owner I really appreciate your videos 👍
Thanks! We appreciate your appreciation of our work.
Thank you so much for this detailed video. I need to do this job and this video gave me the confidence to tackle the job. Keep up the great work!
You're very welcome. It's great to know our video gave you the confidence to tackle it.
Awesome video guys! Ty!!
I have the same noise & a 3” lift,
Who’d a thought this would be an issue.. Anyway,I ordered the kit & thanks to you I can avoid too much cursing while installing. Happy motoring ✌🏽
Hope it fixes your issue and good look with the install. Happy Wrenching!
Great comprehensive video. My 06 Sequoia has the 7.5" ring gear. I diagnosed the low rumbling in the front end myself by the play in the CV axle at the housing, then spent a few hours on the internet searching for the bearing to no avail, then on a Tacoma forum I saw "ECGS" and within 10 minutes had the bushing and puller ordered. The Sequoia has 187,000 easy miles and no lift, but parts still wear out! I don't mind buying the tool because I also have a 06 Tundra with 155,000 on it so its time is coming. It's also overdue for a secondary air injection system failure too...but I know how to fix that because the Sequoia came first on that as well! Glad I found your channel because the Tacos share so many parts and systems from 1st Gen Tundras. But I got a V8 LOL! Thanks for your good work and I'm now subscribed! Just waiting on a nice warm day to do the fix.
Glad you found our channel Joe. Good luck with the job when the weather gets a bit nicer.
Dude… I have researched soooooo much trying to figure out why I have that play and that sound, you’re a hero. Holy shit I was gonna swap the whole damn axle
Glad to be of help to you Robert. Good luck with the bushing install.
Very well made and detailed video. Was fun to watch!
Thanks Jay. We're glad you enjoyed the video and we appreciate the compliment. Happy Wrenching!
I had the same problem the 4x4 shop had a problem with leaking after the installation but the bushing does a wonderful job of getting rid of vibration and noise!.
Yes, the bushing makes that connection tight with zero play.
Wow! What a great video. SUPER informative. Thank you for making this.
Thanks Mike. You're very welcome.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I didn't need the how to, though it does make it easier for me. This did lead me down the road to buying these bushings since I was having a hard time finding the needle bearings. I did find the bearings it just seams like these bushings a superior product. Their tool needs some more thought, I'm going for the Pittsburgh Slide Hammer And Bearing Puller set from Harbor Freight so I have them for future projects.
You're welcome Aaron.
Thank you so much for your informative and helpful videos.
You're welcome buddy.
Man u r a great teacher. Appreciate ur step by step explanation. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the compliment. It's great to know you appreciate the detail we put into our videos.
Great repair guys
Thanks Antonio.
Great vid. I am replacing my shocks soon and I will do this at the same time to save work later on.
Glad you like it Chris. Good luck with the job.
The ECGS modification seems like a good solution to this design issue and your attention to installation details puts your instructional videos in the top tier. Some seem to have more difficulty than others when installing this bushing even after freezing the bushing -- one person eventually had to use a 3lb hammer to install the frozen bushing. I realize there are a number of factors that could cause this like a person's skill level, tools used, freezing technique, workspace clearance, etc. But note that Toyota's T-SB-26-15 calls for installing the OEM needle bearing, without freezing, by using just a "rubber mallet" to press the part with a 39 mm adapter attached to a conventional bearing driver handle. So, another factor causing installation difficulty could be the ECGS part itself, like too much variability in the allowance on this interference fit bushing, bushing material, etc. My question is, if it becomes necessary to eventually remove the ECGS bushing for some reason, could it be difficult to remove with a bearing puller, with added risk of differential axle-bore damage, if a lot of force was needed to press it in?
Using the same tool that you used to extract the needle bearing would probably be best to remove the bushing if you ever needed to. We've never had to remove one so have no idea how hard it would be to get out. It might be a bit of a fight but I highly doubt the bore of the differential would be damged during the extraction.
Helped me immensely! Thank you!
You'e welcome Jason.
Great video! Thanks for putting this together
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Just order the plain bearing and the seal on the tool thanks for your help should be here in a few days. I was able to fish out one needle bearing I think the other one was chopped up when the previous guys that installed the CV joints and a lift kit.
Gotcha. Glad you were able to figure out why your CV axle wasn't going in.
Awesome video just ordered my part and can't wait to have that vibration to be gone.
Thanks Mike and good luck with the job.
You did such great job explain all the steps.
Thank you Zeena Warrior Princess. I guess that's something you've heard tons of times but I couldn't resist seeing your name.
, I do..
Thank you for doing this video!
You're welcome. If you haven't done the job already, I hope it goes smooth for you.
Very good instructural video!
Thanks!
Hey man that’s what I just messaged you about this a few weeks back. Awesome job thanks!!
OHIOMANUSMC Sicmods!!!!
Glad you like it and you're welcome. Good luck getting it done.
Great video! Thank you!
Thanks and you're very welcome!
awesome upload thank you for all the tips!!!
Thanks Alex and you're very welcome.
Fantastic video
Hey, we're glad you think so. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Great in depth commentary on how deep to drive the bushing home! I just did this solo on an 07 Tundra with T9 extractor tool and drove the new bushing in flush with a wheel bearing press plate and long brass drift, the only other tool I needed was a 39mm 12 point socket for the axle nut which is just above most in stock sizing at my local auto parts stores but it was in the rental kit. I had a rotational squeak on test drive just after install, put it 4wd then back into 2wd and no more squeak, must be I got some gear oil over to the bushing and quieted it down? Before replacement the CV tulip had loads of play and a loud grumble in 2wd with slight vibration, after replacement there's almost ZERO tulip play and super smooth rotation. Great solution to this Toyota OEM problem!
We're glad you like the video and found it helpful. Great job getting the job done and we're glad it fixed your issue. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
The new bearing is longer than the old one, and you might not get the tool in there anymore to grab lip because of the added length. At least this is what I experienced on a 5th gen 4runner.
Great video and tutorial. Looks easy. If I were to do it, being OCD, I would change seals out too while there, then fluid. Just being OCD>
If you're going to replace the differential seals, you should watch this video. ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html It was done on a GX470 but we show a cool new tool made by Wits End that make the insertion of the new seals very easy. The link to the tool is in the video description. The long handle of the Wits End tool also makes it much easier to install the ECGS bushing.
I did have the same issue with the piece going in. I did called ECGS they told me to grind i little bit in the edge... but it did work fine..
Thanks for sharing this Fredy. I knew we couldn't be the only ones having this issue. I'm going to call ECGS today and hopefully talk to them regarding this problem. If they just shorten the nut a little, it will make it easier for future people performing this job.
Excellent narration…..you just know when dudes know their shit.
Thanks Bro!
@@TimmyTheToolman Im paying good labor for this job and I want to make sure they’re doing it correctly.
Finally an answer to what that sound and vibration is that's been driving me crazy last 6 months! Timmy, thanks! Love the videos, keep up the great work. Did Seth happen to mention when the updated tool might be available?
Hey David, hope it fixes your issue. Seth didn't say but you could always call them and ask before making your order. It sounded like to me they would have the new design out soon.
I finally got around to the install. Couple observations. I found that removing the shock really made access a lot better when driving in the bushing. Did it by myself without any extension. The modified tool from ECG still required a pretty solid tap to get it behind the bearing. I noticed after I got the bearing out the tap appears to knock a tiny piece off the bearing. Hoping that made its way down to the bottom of the diff and captured by the magnet. Whats your thoughts on ECG's oil recommendation of Lucas 85w140? I put it in the front. Man that stuff is thick. Considering putting in the back too.
Thanks bud. I'll crawl under mine tomorrow. I'm hunting a steering wheel vibration
You're welcome. Hope you figure it out.
great video thank you
Thanks and you're very welcome Tu.
Great video
We're glad you like it Mike. Thanks for the comment.
I’ve been chasing a vibration in my sequoia. My driver side cv is way worse than what yours is. Definitely doing this next
Good luck with th3 job Luke.
Possibly one of the best workshop videos I've seen. The details, socket sizes, lighting, sound and an honest appraisal of the special tool being used. I wish they were all like this.
Thanks for the nice compliment Gary. Shortly after we shot this video, ECGS did an improvement of the tool nut. They sent me one about a month after the video and I just recently got to use it on a buddy's rig and it worked great.
Thanks Good video
?? Have you ever replaced the seal outer (near the wheel) of the cv axle for a 2006 runner? Mine needs to be replace since it basically came apart when I pull the cv axle out.
so far I haven't got it out.
Hey Terry, we haven't performed an axle seal replacement on a 2006 4runner but I assume it would be similar to a 3rd Gen 4runner which we have done. To get the seal out, a slide hammer puller is nice to use. If you don't have one, one of those hooked seal pullers would probably work. But, before you remove the seal, pay attention to how far in it's seated into the differential and try to get it back in the same spot. Check out this video to get an idea of how to replace the seal: ua-cam.com/video/mh1BK5--KrU/v-deo.html
Woops, I just realized you are probably talking about the dust seal on the back of the knuckle. We have replaced a seal like that as part of a Manual Hub Conversion on a 3rd Gen 4runner: ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.html A two or 3 jaw slide hammer puller should be able to get it off with ease if you have one if it's similar to the 3rd Gen 4runner. If you can't hook the seal from the inside, you can hook the lip of the seal on the outside diameter. If you don't have a slide hammer puller, maybe you could use a brass drift and hammer or a punch and hammer to knock the seal off the steering knuckle.
Don't worry about making special tool better, companys pay big money for R&D. think they should send you a nice check. Great video going to tackle this job soon.
They have since updated the tool, it’s a tight fit with tight tolerances so if you angle it weird going in, it will seem like it doesn’t fit properly.
- Sean
Saved my bacon again! Thank you so much
You're very welcome Brandon!
That's great to know
Knowledge is power. Glad we could educate you on the subject.
I just ordered the parts
Jacob Richardson good luck and sicmodding my 4runner friend!
I just did this and it for sure took longer than it looks and harder to get that needle bearing out with that tool i also had to grind mine down and I was surprised how messed up the outer edge of the bushing got when hitting it with a hammer but managed to safely get it in there once it was started. I should have ordered 2 bushings just incase we ruined the 1st one trying to get it in.
Were you using a seal driver when knocking the bushing in? That seems weird the bushing got mangled with installing it.
@Timmy The Toolman I was using a big socket but think it was a hair too big so then we made a hard wooden cylinder then finally used the back end of another size socket with some rebarb for the extension rod to hammer on
@@stock7628 Gotcha
Did that needle bearing come out fairly easy? Making my own removal tool and using my clamshell bushing as size reference; I had a big T-nut laying around that should work but only grips it at the 4 corners. If it was a struggle I'll get a bigger nut and grind it to shape
It comes out fairly easily. It doesn't take a whole lot of force.
8:02 .... the recent a/m Napa front driveshaft axles recently installed on my rig are sorta wobbly like that right there
That play comes from how Toyota designed the carrier and from wear of the needle bearing. I don't think it has anything to do with the aftermarket axle.
How does he like the sleeve compared to the needle bearing
It fixed his problem. He was getting a vibration and roaring sound at higher speeds and now he doesn't have that anymore. That bushing really tightens up the mating of the CV axle to the differential. There's virtually no play.
Great tutorial. Question: How does the special nut stay in place after you position it behind the needle bearing? What keeps it from falling down? Thanks
Glad you like the video. You end up threading the rod of the tool into the nut several turns so it's not likely to fall off. As a safety, you stuff something into the space behind the needle bearing so if it does fall off, it's not going to be able to drop further into the differential. We use a small plastic sandwich bag to stuff into the differential.
Thank you for responding at 21:10 the nut is in position without the rod. It must be pretty snug in there.
@@romo2517 Yes, it does fit snug in there. This is after we altered the nut to make it easier to insert behind the needle bearing. The tool has since been redesigned and I don't know how tight the new one fits in.
With a lot of great tips from Timmy, I have completed the removal steps, and I am now stuck on the bushing installation. Just as Timmy noted, getting the bushing started will be a struggle if you are working alone. Well, I am working alone and struggling. In a Gen1 Tacoma, I have even less space than Timmy did, so I am sure that's part of the problem. I have tried to install it five times, freezing it before each attempt. It's been a long, frustrating day. The OD of the bushing seems larger than it needs to be for a good press fit, but there's not much I can do about that. Bearing OD is 1.530" to 1.531", bushing OD is 1.535" to 1.536".
It’s a tight fit, and as you’ve seen first hand can be a little bit of a struggle/frustration! Hope you get it in soon. Btw, did you freeze it overnight? That should a little.
@@TimmyTheToolman I did freeze it. Maybe helped a little, but I can't seem to drive it in enough to even get a good start. I literally tried all day yesterday. Never been more frustrated in 35 years of vehicle work.
Finally got the bushing in. Big hammer (3-lb blacksmith hammer) made the difference. Also used a makehift drift pin (1/2" drive extension). Taping it to my installation tool made it much easier to do by myself.
@@dand2891 Great job persevering and getting it done. Good idea taping the extension to the seal driver tool.
@@TimmyTheToolman ECGS told me that there is 0.250" nominal clearance between the diff and the CV axle. That's why they said that my 0.150" bushing protrusion was not a problem. I buttoned up the truck today. My test drive produced no strange noises that might suggest improper interference with the bushing. No leaks. And, the RUMBLING VIBRATION IS GONE! Thanks for the guidance and cheerleading along the way. On to my next project (probably the leaking valve covers).
If you buy a new seal from ecgs is that part OEM? When will ecgs sell the updated tool for the 7.5? Thanks for ALL of your detailed/informative videos. Good timing, my front end is torn apart right now for a ton of general maintenance, lift, and Energy Suspension master kit.
That's a good question Kaleb. I would assume they are providing Toyota OEM seals but I don't know for sure. From the response I got from Chase and Seth @ECGS, it sounds like the redesigned tool is going to be available very soon if not right now. What I would do before ordering is call them and find out if you make the order today, will they be sending you the redesigned version of the 7.5" clamshell tool. Maybe ask them also if they are selling OEM seals. I want to get the redesigned tool myself because Chris gave me his after we finished the job, but it would be nice to have the updated version from ECGS.
I got an answer regarding when the redesigned tool will be available from ECGS. I was told in the next 3-4 weeks, so sometime at the beginning of 2019. I was also told that the seal they sell is a Toyota OEM seal.
Awesome ordered anyways. Thanks.
Top notch video... as always
Thanks. We appreciate that.
I didn't see you put a new seal in... I assume I will need one of those to?
It is the opportune time to replace the seal but it's optional. If it wasn't leaking, you can get away without replacing it. If you subscribe to the idea of replacing seals like this while you're in there so you don't have to come back later possibly to replace it when it does leak, then you should replace it. We have a video for replacing the differential seals if you decide to do it.
After lifting 3 inches I have noticed lateral play in the cvs on both sides and cluncking on rough roads. Are the new bearing applicable to both sides? I see it fixes horizontal slop but will the bearings fix the lateral in and out play of the cvs from the diff housing?
The little bit of in and out play is normal. The c-clip sits in a slot bigger that the c-clip which allows for some movement. So no, the bushing doesn't eliminate the normal in and out play of the CV shaft. The bushing is just for the driver side. The passenger side has a roller bearing, not a needle bearing.
Still 3 years with icon lift in my Tacoma and still get no vibration/noise that you guys are talking about. And I’m about it to regear soon
The problem with the needle bearing doesn't happen to everyone. I've had my lift for around 3 years too and I'm still running the needle bearing.
Just read a post on the TacomaWorld forum where someone successfully used a pilot bearing puller tool they borrowed from Autozone instead of the ECGS tool to do this job. It sounds like they were having similar frustrations with the fit of ECGS tool. They apparently got the needle bearing out in a few minutes with no issues. Might be a better option than the ECGS tool.
I think I read this also. But, ECGS has re-engineered the tool so there shouldn't be any issues using their extraction tool anymore.
@timmythetoolman I have a 2002 Toyota 4Runner. I installed a LT kit not to long ago on it (MCM Fab). At first the front springs were to stiff (1800x0300x0600S). However, after an alignment it sounded fine. I ended up switching to softer front springs so the front dropped a tad. Needless to say a weird vibration/rumble developed. This happens at low speeds even when coasting. Almost has a low knocking type sound when coming to a stop naturally in neutral (No braking). The vibration stays pretty consistent when accelerating up to 70mph. The knocking really only seems to be heard at low speeds though. The fixes I have resorted to were that I bought 1600x0300x0600S springs, which dropped the front another inch or so. The CV axles are nearly level now. I just replaced the needle bearing and nothing changed. The sound is still there. I checked the engine, axle, transmission mounts, etc and they all look good. Everything up front is solid. The LBJ's are fairly new as I replaced them when I installed the LT kit. Everything is tight up front, no missing bolts or loose nuts. When I jack up a tire and spin it it sounds normal, just the typical sound of the rotor passing through the brake pads. I checked the U-joints and didn't notice any play but I could be wrong. I am at my wits end! Any ideas!
This sounds like a hard problem to rectify. It sounds like you've addressed all the possible culprits. Have you checked the wheel bearings for play?
@@TimmyTheToolman I did the basic wheel bearing check I've learned over the years. The sound/rumble doesn't seem to change when I turn the wheel in either direction. Could another bearing have gone out in side the front axle? Thanks for the reply!
@@TimmyTheToolman I believe I isolated the sound. I put blocks under the front tires, jacked up the rear, put the vehicle in neutral and spun the rear tires. All the binding noise is coming from the rear, more so near the right rear tire. Any ideas?
@@MC-nd3zl Wheel bearing
@@TimmyTheToolman I'll hopefully be able to rip into this tomorrow. Will keep you updated what I find.
I live in vallejo, I just got new seals from a leaking power steering pump, on my 2006 tacoma. the tech saw that I also add a leak by cv axel. removed the cv to take a look, and I add tons of metal shavings, ate of bearings all in the front diff. I also got my tacoma regear two years ago.the guy that did it. will be taking a look at his work.. and warranty his work. I. was wondering if you do side work on putting this bushing in, or do you know someone that will. thanks
Hey Robert, sorry but we don't do side work. Not enough time in our schedules.
Hi Timmy, I was wanting to get your opinion on what you believe is the largest front end lift I can get away with on my 1st gen Tacoma. I’ve read a lot on the forums and have heard you’ll be pretty good with up to a 3inch lift. What’s the highest you believe you can go with retaining the factory upper control arms, and not completely messing with the cv axel angle. I’m only looking to level out the front end of my taco to the rear end. So what are your thought on this? Thanks Timmy
You heard correct. 3 inches is the max lift for the front.
Wouldnt it be easier to just unscrew the 4 bolts on top of the ball joint without the balljoint out? Nor the outer tie rod? I think ive seen another video were they do it like that and requires less work
You could do it that way but here's the reason why I do it the way I show in the video. Lots of guys, including myself, use loctite on the 4 balljoint bolts. Instead of having to clean up the threads and re-loctite them. I chose to just break free the connection at the outer tie rod and break free the connection at the lower control arm.
It looks to me that you should have tried putting the tool nut in with the flat part in the diff the opposite way you had it . Did you try it that way? Why else would you design the tool that way? It seems to me that there must be a reason that they would have just used a flat on both sides nut. It would cost them extra to machine the nut for no reason.
I love your videos by the way.
Have you ever used a ball joint separator like the harbor freight #99849? I really like mine instead of the tool you used.
Also do you ever put a screwdriver in the rotor fins against the caliper to hold the rotor while tightening the nuts? Any reason to not do that.
That's interesting you mentioned the orientation of the nut. I did try it the other way around but it made no difference. That protrusion on the nut was not hitting anything and inhibiting us getting the nut in place. The problem is the length of the nut. I talked with ECGS this morning and they did know about the issue with the tool and are currently redesigning it.
Great to hear you like the videos Sean and I are making. I have not used that Harbor Freight balljoint separator. I've had really good luck with the OTC front end service kit I bought. I have used that kit a ton. Thanks for reminding me of that trick with the screwdriver in the rotor. Somebody had told me about that in the past but I forgot about it. That would have worked as well. Happy Wrenching!
Excellent video! I have a 2002 Tundra with a vibration that develops at 60 mph and gets worse at 70. My truck is new to me and is not lifted. Will this likely fix a non-lifted truck too? Or should I look to diagnose other issues. The truck is non abused one owner with 94,000 miles. It’s in excellent condition except fo the vibration. Much appreciate any thoughts...
Hey Mike, we're glad you like the video. Your vibration could be caused by a worn needle bearing on the driver side of the front differential even though you're not lifted. But, before you go down that road, I'd check you're wheel balancing first. Does your steering shake a bit or is it just a weird vibration you feel?
Thanks Timmy for the reply. I decided to order the parts from East Coast and they’re on the way to me. My steering wheel shakes a little bit, but it’s due to the vibration. Around 70 it makes my teeth rattle (very slightly) but it a profound vibration. No noises that seem unusual, some say they hear a “growl” but I don’t have that issue. I’ll report back after I get it installed. Thanks a million. I subscribed!
@@mikerasmussen7367 Ok Mike, I hope it works out for you. Let me know if it fixed your vibration issue.
EXCELLENT INFORMATIVE YESTERDAY I INSTALLED THE SAME IN MY 2000 TOYOTA 4R NOW ZERO ROAD VIBRATIONS AND I DID NOT HAVE TO SAND THE TOOL FOR IT TO GET IN VERY EASY
Yeah, ECGS redesigned the tool about a month after we shot this video. The new design fits well. Good job getting it done.
Did he do both axle shaft sides or only that one side did he put one sleeve in each side of the diff
It's just the driver side that has the issue. The passenger side isn't a problem.
It's actually a different type of bearing on the passenger side. It's a ball bearing instead of a needle. The ecgs site has that part as well.
I bought the kit weeks ago...It needs to be done. I installed a diff drop which helped a lot, but I have been waiting because this isn’t an easy job. Did you consider unbolting the lbj instead of popping it off (I hate using ball joint pullers)? Also I ordered a front diff seal from ecg which seems like a no brainer but I noticed you didn’t replace yours. Lastly if you lifted both sides of the vehicle could you get away with not removing the tie rod end? Great job!
You could obviously remove the 4 balljoint bolts as opposed to disconnecting the balljoint from the lower control arm. It's just personal preference for me because I didn't want to have to re-loctite the bolts and potentially have issues realigning the bolts with the knuckle. Replacing the diff seal is definitely a good thing to replace while you're in there but Chris decided not to do it because the seal was fine and wasn't leaking. Lifting both sides wouldn't change anything but if you did remove the 4 balljoint bolts, you would be able to lift the steering knuckle out of your way so you can get the CV axle out and perform the needle bearing removal and bushing installation. I've learned to love using pullers so it doesn't bother me. Good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman i just finished mine. I had to grind a lot as well. I ground the thickness on the back of the insert mostly. The puller pulled out the bearing easy. I had a hard time pressing it in. Really had to beat it hard to get it in. I also put my bearing in the freezer. I used a 2” pvc coupler to pound in the axle bearing. I used a slide hammer to pull the axle out which was really easy.
Is there a front diff clam shell gauge 2000 4 runner sr5 going from stock to air locker do you have a video on front diff locker I can reference
We don't have a video for installing an air locker into a front diff on a 3rd Gen 4runner.
I wish I had someone trustworthy to install one of these.
The only person you can trust is yourself! Doing it yourself gives you the price of mind knowing it was done right. And with this guide we made, we hope people like yourself will attempt this install.
- Sean
Mine is leaking even after replacing the old seal with a new oem seal. There is a lot of play in the shaft, do you think the old bearing is causing it to leak?
It could be that or you don't have the seal driven in to the correct depth.
Would a blind hole bearing puller work instead of /better than the ECGS tool?
A blind hole bearing puller probably could work. ECGS fixed the extraction tool shorty after we shot this video. I cover this fact in a comment I pinned. But, if you're trying to save money on the tool and already own the blind hole bearing puller, it's worth a shot to see if it works. That needle bearing isn't a super strong thing and it can get bent and distorted pretty easily though. So, I don't know how it will do from the slide hammering of the bearing extractor. The ECGS works like a regular puller so there's no dynamic force slamming into the cage of the bearing.
Did using a blind hole puller work out?
Good video but kinda surprised that nothing was said about how to diagnose the issue. If you have this roar and vibration, as mine did that started at 30mph, run the rig up to the vibration and then flip the truck to 4wd......and it’s gone. If the vibration immediately disappears then the problem is the needle bearing. I had this issue with my 07 Tacoma after a 3” lift.
Hey thanks for the additional info on diagnosis! Appreciate it
Looks like if the plastic bag was push back a little more the pulling nut/flange can be put through the hole more horizontal, then pulled forward into location. Not sure without having done it. Just a thought. Either way love the videos guys. Take care
We actually used a plastic bag in our most recent ECGS bushing replacement on a 5th gen 4runner and it worked really well. Th bewildered idea here is that you don’t accidentally loose the little tool that bushings the original OEM bushing out..
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman right on, I wasn't saying the plastic bag was the issue ( I completely understand the thought process of having something there to insure not dropping anything inside the diff). I was just wondering if it was pasha deeper that would allow the pulling nut/flange to be inserted through the needle bearing and once thru flipped up vertical and against the backside of the needle bushing.. like I was saying without having tried it, it's tough to tell.
@scottygrooms The nut needed some tweaking, and ECGS did that shortly after we filmed this video. The redesigned version is much better.
do you not need the bushing if you install a front locker in your clamshell?
I think it depends on the locker. I think ARB uses a bushing and that's where ECGS got the idea from.
Doesn't this bushing mess up faster ? Especially on lifted applications? Since the cv axle angles are off?
No, the bushing will last much longer. That's the whole point of doing this job. With the increased CV angle from a suspension lift, the needle bearing can deteriorate. The oil impregnated bronze bushing is more durable. If you want, you can always call ECGS and talk with one of their techs about why they believe their bushing is superior to having a needle bearing.
Found myself with a huge problem. I have that rectangular piece that slips in behind the needle bearing, stuck behind The bearing with no way to thread the bolt into it. The threads must have gotten damaged somehow and now I am not able to pull it out
Try cleaning up the threads with either a thread restorer or a tap and die set. Maybe just running a die over the bolt will fix the issue. If it's the female threads in the nut that are bad, also run a tap through and then you should be good to go.
Is the needle bearing a Manufactured Defect the cause of the play in the Drive Axle.
It's not the way the needle bearing is made but rather how the clamshell housing is made. The ECGS website explains it well.
I was about to do a lift/diff drop soon. Would you recommend doing this preemptively, or wait to see if I even develop the shaft float? I'm not exactly sure how common this problem is and if it's something I should jump the gun on.
I would wait to see if you develop an issue. It's common but probably not common enough to do it preemptively.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the advice! Thats what I was leaning towards but would've liked a second opinion.
found it lol was lookin for this comment
does this apply to the 4th gens as well? I have a vibration when braking (not always) and a very light vibration when driving (intermittent). All brake rotors are machined. Ive been riding on broken inside boot CVs for 4 years.
I went on their website and they do make one for 4th Gen 4runners but the website said it doesn't fit AWD 4runners or FJ Cruisers. Here's a link to their website: eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html If you're uncertain it will work for your rig, give ECGS a call.
is this the same for a 2nd gen 4runner? does the needle bearing come out from the side or from inside of diff?
Hey Wayne, we don't have experience with 2nd Gen 4runners so we can't say for sure. Maybe you can get your hands on a factory service manual for your year 4runner on Ebay.
Hello Sirs!! Does this "FIX" work for Manual Transmissions 4 Runners as well?? Please reply as soon as possible. Thanks A BUNCH!!!!
This bushing will work on both a manual and an automatic because it has no correlation to a transmission. This FIX is for the front clamshell of a front differential. So the only truck this won’t work with is a 2wd because it lacks the front diff altogether.
- Sean
I seem to be having a bunch of excessive play in the CV and noise when going over bumps but my Tundra is an 07. Is it also prevalent on that series ? The ECGS site only says through 06.
Hard to say if it’s the CV itself or inside the differential. I would give ECGS a call and explain your situation and inquire why your model year isn’t listed.
- Sean
Ran into the same issue with the removal tool/part. I also had to grind it down. Unacceptable!! Every other item in the kit worked great.
Did you buy a recently made kit or did you have an older model? Shortly after we produced this video, ECGS redesigned the extraction nut. I have used the updated version and it fit well and didn't require any grinding. ECGS does have different sized nuts for different Toyota differentials. If you did have a recently made tool set, maybe they sent you the wrong extraction nut by accident or you possibly ordered the wrong kit for your application. If you call ECGS, they'll send you out a replacement nut. Their customer service is excellent.
Recently bought. Actually bought in mid September, 2022. I did cal them and they refunded $15. Gotta say, it was a headache and wasted time trying to make it fit. Ended up shaving the ends gradually until it finally worked. PIA but did work. Every other item that came in the kit worked great.
@@one100billneoone4 Yeah, sounds like they sent you the wrong extraction nut. You got the job done and you now have a superior bushing for your CV axle to ride on.
@@TimmyTheToolman
Thank you for the video. Precise and clear instruction!! Awesome!!!
@@one100billneoone4 You're very welcome. Thanks for the compliment!
whats up timmy, have a grind/vibration when i let off the gas around 70. replaced drive shaft , new diff , new wheel bearings, replaced trany, new upper arms, ball joints and still a vibration/grind . any ideas? thanks for your vids
1999 4runner 2wd lifted on 31
Man, you've replaced so much and it's still there. I really don't know why the grind/vibration just manifests when you're going fast and then let off the gas. The things you've replaced would have been the possible culprits I would have thought of. Which wheel bearings were replaced, front or rears? Has the vehicle been involved in an accident? I'm wondering if there's a bent axle.
thanks for the reply, had some bad exhaust hangers . just got it back today. drives like a dream . your vids rule👊🏼 keep it up
@@johnnyg2466 Cool. Glad you got it figured out. Nice to hear you like the videos Sean and I have been making and we will definitely keep cranking them out. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Still vibrate after installation. I have diff drop kit, carrier bearing drop, what should I do next?
Obviously the problem is elsewhere. Have you rechecked wheel balancing? Have you removed the rear driveshaft and driven in 4wd on a straight road to see if the vibration is still there to try to eliminate that it's coming from the front end and not the back end or viceversa?
Will this fix steering wheel shake from 58-64mph? Done it since new.
If the worn out needle bearing is the reason you’re getting shaking at that speed then maybe. But there could be so many reasons to why you have steering wheel Shake. Usually that is caused by tire balancing
I just went through this install process on my 2000 4runner. The ECGS bushing is in place and flush. There is tiny lip on the bushing as you mentioned in the video. Now I'm trying to install this new Trakmotiv Extended CV axle. I've greased the end with the c-clip and I can get it installed maybe 3/8" into the new ECGS bushing, but I can't get it to go any further. Like most aftermarket CV axles, there's no lip on the tulip to put a pry bar on there and give it some taps with a hammer. Any thoughts? It still looks like it has about a whole inch that it needs to move to get seated all the way. I've spent 1.5 hours on this thing. So frustrating.
Take a dead blow hammer or brass hammer and hit the end of the CV Axle shaft while keeping the CV shaft parallel to the ground giving it a straight shot into the differential. Some firm blows should fully seat the axle into the diff.
Awesome vids, do you know if you can do pass side same way without pulling stub shaft housing?
The passenger side is a whole different animal. That side has a much larger roller bearing, not a needle bearing like the driver side. We've never replaced that bearing but I know the differential tube would have to come off and a press would be needed to accomplish the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman kinda figured was hoping for a shortcut , oh well thanks for responding
@@jahsonferg5581 I've never heard of anyone having to replace that bearing. Are you sure yours is bad?
@@TimmyTheToolman oh yeah never had a problem either out of all 5, 1st gen I've had have heard of a few ppl using the ecgs bushing on pass side but got bearing from dealership and they said was same part as driver side as well thanks again.
@@jahsonferg5581 I guess you got a Rookie Dealership Parts Guy or Gal.
Do you have to add more front diff fluid?
If you jack up only the driver side so the front end is tilted towards the passenger side,, probably nothing will out. If you lift the whole front end without draining the front diff, gear oil would leak out and you would need to top it off.
Does the average car repair shop know how to do this or do I need to find a specialty shop that focuses on lifts and aftermarket upgrades? I can't do it myself.
I doubt regular shops know about this repair. It's a specialty type of job.