*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION* 01/22/19- ECGS now has the updated tool available for sale so you should not need to alter the tool in any way to have it work for you to remove the needle bearing. You can disregard the information below unless you happened to buy a used original tool off somebody. 12/11/18- I sent ECGS this video to get their opinion on what we experienced using their removal tool. The following is a response from Chase Perry @ ECGS: The T8 and the T9 fit fine, our video was of a T8 they drop in. The 7.5 tolerances are much tighter the gap between the side gear and needle bearing is not as much, so the tool struggles to go in. We have redesigned the 7.5 tool by making it a little thinner and the OD a little smaller which should solve the problem but this is only an issue on the 7.5 however the bevel can be helpful on all the tools. The redesigned tool will be available in 3-4 weeks, probably at the beginning of 2019. If you're interested in buying an oil seal through them, the seals they sell are Toyota OEM seals. 12/10/18 - I spoke on the phone with Seth @ ECGS this morning and we talked about the issue with the extrication tool they make. He did say they know about the problem and they are currently re-designing the tool. If you do happen to have the older version of the tool, just take a little bit of the length off the nut and try to fit it in the differential. If it's still too tight, take a little more material off. Just err on the side of taking too little off at first and keep test fitting until you get the nut down to the right size to fit in. You just want to avoid removing too much material and then not have the nut grab the needle bearing very well. Seth also said the experience with driving the bushing in is varied. Some people have a very easy time installing it while others have the experience we had requiring more force to drive it in.
@@DP-np5mm Maybe that would work. ECGS did re-design the tool so hopefully it's easier to insert behind the needle bearing. If you give the blind bearing puller a try, let us know how it worked for you. Thanks for the suggestion.
I'm actually having the same issue you guys had and I just bought the ECGS bushing and removal tool a few days ago and this is May 2022. I'll try a few more times with some tapping before I start using the grinding wheel. Man, this is so frustrating.
Watched this video prior to making this repair on my 2001 4Runner. If it helps anyone, save an old axle and take it apart. The part that goes into the clamshell makes an excellent tool to install the bushing that will hold itself square when you are doing this without an extra set of hands. Make sure that it’s in the splines properly and you can insert a pipe or piece of wood and drive the bushing home solo. Best part is afterwards you can still use the piece of the old axle and reboot it as a trail spare 👍
I just finished this repair on my Tundra today, your video helped so much. I hit a couple snags, but the biggest was driving that bushing in, took 3 hours 😵after a couple thousand hammer strikes it went, the tool was so chewed up but it fixed the issue, so worth it! Thx for the walkthrough!
I love how every time I need to fix something on my 4runner I can always find a video on your channel for it , I love it , thanks again for a quality videos helps alot,
Excellent presentation. Words and pictures baby!! Perfect explanation of the issues AND the resolution alongside carefully thought out video and imagery of your steps. You guys are going to make a (shady NO - shade tree) mechanic out of me! Subscribed!
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! Auto Mechanics is something everyone can do. With the Right Information, Right Tools and Right Level of Patience, you can be a very successful DIY Auto Mechanic. Thanks for subscribing and Happy Wrenching!
👏👏👏👏👏 honestly the best do it yourself explanation I've seen. Very detailed down to not destroying the rubber on the tie rods and ball joints. Plus giving directions for people that don't have a friend to help lol.
Dude… I have researched soooooo much trying to figure out why I have that play and that sound, you’re a hero. Holy shit I was gonna swap the whole damn axle
The ECGS modification seems like a good solution to this design issue and your attention to installation details puts your instructional videos in the top tier. Some seem to have more difficulty than others when installing this bushing even after freezing the bushing -- one person eventually had to use a 3lb hammer to install the frozen bushing. I realize there are a number of factors that could cause this like a person's skill level, tools used, freezing technique, workspace clearance, etc. But note that Toyota's T-SB-26-15 calls for installing the OEM needle bearing, without freezing, by using just a "rubber mallet" to press the part with a 39 mm adapter attached to a conventional bearing driver handle. So, another factor causing installation difficulty could be the ECGS part itself, like too much variability in the allowance on this interference fit bushing, bushing material, etc. My question is, if it becomes necessary to eventually remove the ECGS bushing for some reason, could it be difficult to remove with a bearing puller, with added risk of differential axle-bore damage, if a lot of force was needed to press it in?
Using the same tool that you used to extract the needle bearing would probably be best to remove the bushing if you ever needed to. We've never had to remove one so have no idea how hard it would be to get out. It might be a bit of a fight but I highly doubt the bore of the differential would be damged during the extraction.
Must be nice to have a friend! The only things I spend more time on than rigging up ways to hold brakes are swearing and bandaging. Great video, really really helpful
EXCELLENT INFORMATIVE YESTERDAY I INSTALLED THE SAME IN MY 2000 TOYOTA 4R NOW ZERO ROAD VIBRATIONS AND I DID NOT HAVE TO SAND THE TOOL FOR IT TO GET IN VERY EASY
@timmythetoolman I have a 2002 Toyota 4Runner. I installed a LT kit not to long ago on it (MCM Fab). At first the front springs were to stiff (1800x0300x0600S). However, after an alignment it sounded fine. I ended up switching to softer front springs so the front dropped a tad. Needless to say a weird vibration/rumble developed. This happens at low speeds even when coasting. Almost has a low knocking type sound when coming to a stop naturally in neutral (No braking). The vibration stays pretty consistent when accelerating up to 70mph. The knocking really only seems to be heard at low speeds though. The fixes I have resorted to were that I bought 1600x0300x0600S springs, which dropped the front another inch or so. The CV axles are nearly level now. I just replaced the needle bearing and nothing changed. The sound is still there. I checked the engine, axle, transmission mounts, etc and they all look good. Everything up front is solid. The LBJ's are fairly new as I replaced them when I installed the LT kit. Everything is tight up front, no missing bolts or loose nuts. When I jack up a tire and spin it it sounds normal, just the typical sound of the rotor passing through the brake pads. I checked the U-joints and didn't notice any play but I could be wrong. I am at my wits end! Any ideas!
@@TimmyTheToolman I did the basic wheel bearing check I've learned over the years. The sound/rumble doesn't seem to change when I turn the wheel in either direction. Could another bearing have gone out in side the front axle? Thanks for the reply!
@@TimmyTheToolman I believe I isolated the sound. I put blocks under the front tires, jacked up the rear, put the vehicle in neutral and spun the rear tires. All the binding noise is coming from the rear, more so near the right rear tire. Any ideas?
Possibly one of the best workshop videos I've seen. The details, socket sizes, lighting, sound and an honest appraisal of the special tool being used. I wish they were all like this.
Thanks for the nice compliment Gary. Shortly after we shot this video, ECGS did an improvement of the tool nut. They sent me one about a month after the video and I just recently got to use it on a buddy's rig and it worked great.
Excellent video! Thanks for all the help. Wasted hours trying to get the removal tool to fit. Wish I had watched this video first. If you are installing the ECGS bushing make sure you watch this entire video.
Thanks Paul. ECGS did update the tool shortly after we shot this video but I have not had the opportunity to try out the new and improved removal nut they reengineered. I'm guessing you had the original tool as well and that's why it fought you.
Great comprehensive video. My 06 Sequoia has the 7.5" ring gear. I diagnosed the low rumbling in the front end myself by the play in the CV axle at the housing, then spent a few hours on the internet searching for the bearing to no avail, then on a Tacoma forum I saw "ECGS" and within 10 minutes had the bushing and puller ordered. The Sequoia has 187,000 easy miles and no lift, but parts still wear out! I don't mind buying the tool because I also have a 06 Tundra with 155,000 on it so its time is coming. It's also overdue for a secondary air injection system failure too...but I know how to fix that because the Sequoia came first on that as well! Glad I found your channel because the Tacos share so many parts and systems from 1st Gen Tundras. But I got a V8 LOL! Thanks for your good work and I'm now subscribed! Just waiting on a nice warm day to do the fix.
I had the same problem the 4x4 shop had a problem with leaking after the installation but the bushing does a wonderful job of getting rid of vibration and noise!.
Thank you for the very informative video! Appreciated you took the time to explain things thoroughly as well as provided torque specs! A+ video for sure
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I didn't need the how to, though it does make it easier for me. This did lead me down the road to buying these bushings since I was having a hard time finding the needle bearings. I did find the bearings it just seams like these bushings a superior product. Their tool needs some more thought, I'm going for the Pittsburgh Slide Hammer And Bearing Puller set from Harbor Freight so I have them for future projects.
I just did this and it for sure took longer than it looks and harder to get that needle bearing out with that tool i also had to grind mine down and I was surprised how messed up the outer edge of the bushing got when hitting it with a hammer but managed to safely get it in there once it was started. I should have ordered 2 bushings just incase we ruined the 1st one trying to get it in.
@Timmy The Toolman I was using a big socket but think it was a hair too big so then we made a hard wooden cylinder then finally used the back end of another size socket with some rebarb for the extension rod to hammer on
That play comes from how Toyota designed the carrier and from wear of the needle bearing. I don't think it has anything to do with the aftermarket axle.
Awesome video guys! Ty!! I have the same noise & a 3” lift, Who’d a thought this would be an issue.. Anyway,I ordered the kit & thanks to you I can avoid too much cursing while installing. Happy motoring ✌🏽
With their new improved tool, extracting the needle bearing shouldn't be a big deal. But, driving in that bushing wasn't easy and the way we did it in the video was the only way I could see it working. The bushing for us didn't slide in easy at all. You need to do firm blows with a hammer and that can't be done in the tight confines of the control arm. We really needed to extend out further so we could do hard enough blows with the hammer and that's why we decided to marry up the brass drift to the seal driver tool. Because of this, it really makes this a two-person operation. One person holding the seal driver against the face of the bushing sleeve while also holding the brass drift against the end of the seal driver handle. I suppose a person could do this on their own but I would imagine there would be lots of cursing involved. If you have somebody that can help you with driving in the bushing, that's what I highly recommend you do.
Thank you guys for this video it will help everyone a lot. This is the detailed video i believe everyone needs. Were not going to see any of this good stuff on t.v.
Thanks for this video! I have 2012 Tundra with only 50k miles and I have periodic humming noise hmm...hmm...hmm at 20mph under no load (mostly) This is very prevalent in cold weather, and rare in the summer when there is cold morning. It goes away when the truck is completely warm and driven for a while. You can even feel the same vibration in the steering wheel. Possibly the same problem? Thanks
Don't worry about making special tool better, companys pay big money for R&D. think they should send you a nice check. Great video going to tackle this job soon.
They have since updated the tool, it’s a tight fit with tight tolerances so if you angle it weird going in, it will seem like it doesn’t fit properly. - Sean
Just order the plain bearing and the seal on the tool thanks for your help should be here in a few days. I was able to fish out one needle bearing I think the other one was chopped up when the previous guys that installed the CV joints and a lift kit.
Finally an answer to what that sound and vibration is that's been driving me crazy last 6 months! Timmy, thanks! Love the videos, keep up the great work. Did Seth happen to mention when the updated tool might be available?
Hey David, hope it fixes your issue. Seth didn't say but you could always call them and ask before making your order. It sounded like to me they would have the new design out soon.
I finally got around to the install. Couple observations. I found that removing the shock really made access a lot better when driving in the bushing. Did it by myself without any extension. The modified tool from ECG still required a pretty solid tap to get it behind the bearing. I noticed after I got the bearing out the tap appears to knock a tiny piece off the bearing. Hoping that made its way down to the bottom of the diff and captured by the magnet. Whats your thoughts on ECG's oil recommendation of Lucas 85w140? I put it in the front. Man that stuff is thick. Considering putting in the back too.
I am currently having a vibration from about 58-63mph in the steering wheel. 2018 4Runner TRD off road. Which is why I am here. It has the upgraded wheels and tires from factory however I do not have any lift. I do have play on my coupling and am currently dealing with Toyota for this issue. Of course they say it’s a balance/alignment issue. I asked them to test drive a brand new 2020 TRD off road with the same wheels and tires. SAME ISSUE with only 2 miles on the odometer. This is a Toyota issue which for some reason hasn’t been posted yet. I’m not sure why but it’s ridiculous that a brand new 4Runner would drive like that. The Toyota tech tried to tell me “it may have flat spots in the tires from sitting.” I previously drove my Jeep Jk with 37” Pitbull rockers from Destin FL to Moab UT and had no vibrations on a 26hr drive. This is clearly the issue. We just have to get Toyota to recognize and fix it.
That would blow me away if the new front differentials have the same issue but I guess I shouldn't be surprised either. Auto manufacturers probably stick with designs that they think work even though consumers like us know better.
@@MATINICUS94 Maybe East Coast Gear Supply knows if the newer Toyotas have the same problem with the differential carriers. it would be interesting to hear what they say.
Thanks for sharing this Fredy. I knew we couldn't be the only ones having this issue. I'm going to call ECGS today and hopefully talk to them regarding this problem. If they just shorten the nut a little, it will make it easier for future people performing this job.
If you're going to replace the differential seals, you should watch this video. ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html It was done on a GX470 but we show a cool new tool made by Wits End that make the insertion of the new seals very easy. The link to the tool is in the video description. The long handle of the Wits End tool also makes it much easier to install the ECGS bushing.
It looks to me that you should have tried putting the tool nut in with the flat part in the diff the opposite way you had it . Did you try it that way? Why else would you design the tool that way? It seems to me that there must be a reason that they would have just used a flat on both sides nut. It would cost them extra to machine the nut for no reason. I love your videos by the way. Have you ever used a ball joint separator like the harbor freight #99849? I really like mine instead of the tool you used. Also do you ever put a screwdriver in the rotor fins against the caliper to hold the rotor while tightening the nuts? Any reason to not do that.
That's interesting you mentioned the orientation of the nut. I did try it the other way around but it made no difference. That protrusion on the nut was not hitting anything and inhibiting us getting the nut in place. The problem is the length of the nut. I talked with ECGS this morning and they did know about the issue with the tool and are currently redesigning it. Great to hear you like the videos Sean and I are making. I have not used that Harbor Freight balljoint separator. I've had really good luck with the OTC front end service kit I bought. I have used that kit a ton. Thanks for reminding me of that trick with the screwdriver in the rotor. Somebody had told me about that in the past but I forgot about it. That would have worked as well. Happy Wrenching!
This bushing will work on both a manual and an automatic because it has no correlation to a transmission. This FIX is for the front clamshell of a front differential. So the only truck this won’t work with is a 2wd because it lacks the front diff altogether. - Sean
Is it a bearing on the passenger side? I thought I remember it was just like the ECGS bushing on the passenger side. I'm getting axel vibration on the passenger side...
Yes! I have a lot of play in both LH/RH CV axles where they connect to the clamshell along with gnarly front end vibration that seems prevalent on both sides. I’m planning on following your tutorial for the LH bushing replacement but the schematics I have show a ball bearing and a needle bearing on the RH side?? Any insight on which bearing to purchase for the LH side? ECGS only sells a ball bearing for it (‘99 4Runner 4x4)
Got my tires balanced, it fixed passenger side vibration. Stuck a go pro to watch the Axel's and everything looks good, even @ 80mph. I can feel a bit of slop and wiggle them around with my hands, but they look good at speeds and aren't making any vibrations
What is the bearing on the passenger side called? I think mine is making a terrible grinding sound about 45mph. Replaced the wheel bearing but now i think its on the inside of the cv/ diff connection. I just dont know what the bearing would be called
Hey Timmy does the passenger side also have a needle bearing? I noticed when I was underneath my 2000 tundra that both side of the differential have a lot of slop of the cv axles? I am getting ready to purchase the bushings wanted to make sure I get 2 not just 1. Thanks Enrique
Hey Enrique, the passenger side has a larger roller bearing so it is different. I've never had to replace one. It would require pulling off the differential tube and using a press to replace it.
Thanks for the quick response, after spending time scrolling the comments on this video I found the answer you told another person. Again I highly appreciate it. Other thing is the roller bearing located inside the differential tube. I was looking into replacing it. Is it doable at a home garage? Thanks again
@@enriquemejia3554 I think the roller bearing replacement is doable but I'm not 100% sure. I've never done it so I'd have to consult the factory service manual to see what it entails. I'll take a look at it and get back to you.
Great in depth commentary on how deep to drive the bushing home! I just did this solo on an 07 Tundra with T9 extractor tool and drove the new bushing in flush with a wheel bearing press plate and long brass drift, the only other tool I needed was a 39mm 12 point socket for the axle nut which is just above most in stock sizing at my local auto parts stores but it was in the rental kit. I had a rotational squeak on test drive just after install, put it 4wd then back into 2wd and no more squeak, must be I got some gear oil over to the bushing and quieted it down? Before replacement the CV tulip had loads of play and a loud grumble in 2wd with slight vibration, after replacement there's almost ZERO tulip play and super smooth rotation. Great solution to this Toyota OEM problem!
We're glad you like the video and found it helpful. Great job getting the job done and we're glad it fixed your issue. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
The new bearing is longer than the old one, and you might not get the tool in there anymore to grab lip because of the added length. At least this is what I experienced on a 5th gen 4runner.
With a lot of great tips from Timmy, I have completed the removal steps, and I am now stuck on the bushing installation. Just as Timmy noted, getting the bushing started will be a struggle if you are working alone. Well, I am working alone and struggling. In a Gen1 Tacoma, I have even less space than Timmy did, so I am sure that's part of the problem. I have tried to install it five times, freezing it before each attempt. It's been a long, frustrating day. The OD of the bushing seems larger than it needs to be for a good press fit, but there's not much I can do about that. Bearing OD is 1.530" to 1.531", bushing OD is 1.535" to 1.536".
It’s a tight fit, and as you’ve seen first hand can be a little bit of a struggle/frustration! Hope you get it in soon. Btw, did you freeze it overnight? That should a little.
@@TimmyTheToolman I did freeze it. Maybe helped a little, but I can't seem to drive it in enough to even get a good start. I literally tried all day yesterday. Never been more frustrated in 35 years of vehicle work.
Finally got the bushing in. Big hammer (3-lb blacksmith hammer) made the difference. Also used a makehift drift pin (1/2" drive extension). Taping it to my installation tool made it much easier to do by myself.
@@TimmyTheToolman ECGS told me that there is 0.250" nominal clearance between the diff and the CV axle. That's why they said that my 0.150" bushing protrusion was not a problem. I buttoned up the truck today. My test drive produced no strange noises that might suggest improper interference with the bushing. No leaks. And, the RUMBLING VIBRATION IS GONE! Thanks for the guidance and cheerleading along the way. On to my next project (probably the leaking valve covers).
It fixed his problem. He was getting a vibration and roaring sound at higher speeds and now he doesn't have that anymore. That bushing really tightens up the mating of the CV axle to the differential. There's virtually no play.
whats up timmy, have a grind/vibration when i let off the gas around 70. replaced drive shaft , new diff , new wheel bearings, replaced trany, new upper arms, ball joints and still a vibration/grind . any ideas? thanks for your vids 1999 4runner 2wd lifted on 31
Man, you've replaced so much and it's still there. I really don't know why the grind/vibration just manifests when you're going fast and then let off the gas. The things you've replaced would have been the possible culprits I would have thought of. Which wheel bearings were replaced, front or rears? Has the vehicle been involved in an accident? I'm wondering if there's a bent axle.
@@johnnyg2466 Cool. Glad you got it figured out. Nice to hear you like the videos Sean and I have been making and we will definitely keep cranking them out. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Did you buy a recently made kit or did you have an older model? Shortly after we produced this video, ECGS redesigned the extraction nut. I have used the updated version and it fit well and didn't require any grinding. ECGS does have different sized nuts for different Toyota differentials. If you did have a recently made tool set, maybe they sent you the wrong extraction nut by accident or you possibly ordered the wrong kit for your application. If you call ECGS, they'll send you out a replacement nut. Their customer service is excellent.
Recently bought. Actually bought in mid September, 2022. I did cal them and they refunded $15. Gotta say, it was a headache and wasted time trying to make it fit. Ended up shaving the ends gradually until it finally worked. PIA but did work. Every other item that came in the kit worked great.
@@one100billneoone4 Yeah, sounds like they sent you the wrong extraction nut. You got the job done and you now have a superior bushing for your CV axle to ride on.
Excellent video! I have a 2002 Tundra with a vibration that develops at 60 mph and gets worse at 70. My truck is new to me and is not lifted. Will this likely fix a non-lifted truck too? Or should I look to diagnose other issues. The truck is non abused one owner with 94,000 miles. It’s in excellent condition except fo the vibration. Much appreciate any thoughts...
Hey Mike, we're glad you like the video. Your vibration could be caused by a worn needle bearing on the driver side of the front differential even though you're not lifted. But, before you go down that road, I'd check you're wheel balancing first. Does your steering shake a bit or is it just a weird vibration you feel?
Thanks Timmy for the reply. I decided to order the parts from East Coast and they’re on the way to me. My steering wheel shakes a little bit, but it’s due to the vibration. Around 70 it makes my teeth rattle (very slightly) but it a profound vibration. No noises that seem unusual, some say they hear a “growl” but I don’t have that issue. I’ll report back after I get it installed. Thanks a million. I subscribed!
I live in vallejo, I just got new seals from a leaking power steering pump, on my 2006 tacoma. the tech saw that I also add a leak by cv axel. removed the cv to take a look, and I add tons of metal shavings, ate of bearings all in the front diff. I also got my tacoma regear two years ago.the guy that did it. will be taking a look at his work.. and warranty his work. I. was wondering if you do side work on putting this bushing in, or do you know someone that will. thanks
Great tutorial. Question: How does the special nut stay in place after you position it behind the needle bearing? What keeps it from falling down? Thanks
Glad you like the video. You end up threading the rod of the tool into the nut several turns so it's not likely to fall off. As a safety, you stuff something into the space behind the needle bearing so if it does fall off, it's not going to be able to drop further into the differential. We use a small plastic sandwich bag to stuff into the differential.
@@romo2517 Yes, it does fit snug in there. This is after we altered the nut to make it easier to insert behind the needle bearing. The tool has since been redesigned and I don't know how tight the new one fits in.
It would be the same process. I think your 2nd Gen has an 8" diff and not a 7.5" like the 3rd Gen 4runners have. Make sure you get the correct bushing, extractor set, and installation tool. They now make a nice custom installation tool rather than the seal driver I used 4 years ago.
After lifting 3 inches I have noticed lateral play in the cvs on both sides and cluncking on rough roads. Are the new bearing applicable to both sides? I see it fixes horizontal slop but will the bearings fix the lateral in and out play of the cvs from the diff housing?
The little bit of in and out play is normal. The c-clip sits in a slot bigger that the c-clip which allows for some movement. So no, the bushing doesn't eliminate the normal in and out play of the CV shaft. The bushing is just for the driver side. The passenger side has a roller bearing, not a needle bearing.
Thanks Good video ?? Have you ever replaced the seal outer (near the wheel) of the cv axle for a 2006 runner? Mine needs to be replace since it basically came apart when I pull the cv axle out. so far I haven't got it out.
Hey Terry, we haven't performed an axle seal replacement on a 2006 4runner but I assume it would be similar to a 3rd Gen 4runner which we have done. To get the seal out, a slide hammer puller is nice to use. If you don't have one, one of those hooked seal pullers would probably work. But, before you remove the seal, pay attention to how far in it's seated into the differential and try to get it back in the same spot. Check out this video to get an idea of how to replace the seal: ua-cam.com/video/mh1BK5--KrU/v-deo.html Woops, I just realized you are probably talking about the dust seal on the back of the knuckle. We have replaced a seal like that as part of a Manual Hub Conversion on a 3rd Gen 4runner: ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.html A two or 3 jaw slide hammer puller should be able to get it off with ease if you have one if it's similar to the 3rd Gen 4runner. If you can't hook the seal from the inside, you can hook the lip of the seal on the outside diameter. If you don't have a slide hammer puller, maybe you could use a brass drift and hammer or a punch and hammer to knock the seal off the steering knuckle.
Looks like if the plastic bag was push back a little more the pulling nut/flange can be put through the hole more horizontal, then pulled forward into location. Not sure without having done it. Just a thought. Either way love the videos guys. Take care
We actually used a plastic bag in our most recent ECGS bushing replacement on a 5th gen 4runner and it worked really well. Th bewildered idea here is that you don’t accidentally loose the little tool that bushings the original OEM bushing out.. - Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman right on, I wasn't saying the plastic bag was the issue ( I completely understand the thought process of having something there to insure not dropping anything inside the diff). I was just wondering if it was pasha deeper that would allow the pulling nut/flange to be inserted through the needle bearing and once thru flipped up vertical and against the backside of the needle bushing.. like I was saying without having tried it, it's tough to tell.
I seem to be having a bunch of excessive play in the CV and noise when going over bumps but my Tundra is an 07. Is it also prevalent on that series ? The ECGS site only says through 06.
Hard to say if it’s the CV itself or inside the differential. I would give ECGS a call and explain your situation and inquire why your model year isn’t listed. - Sean
does this apply to the 4th gens as well? I have a vibration when braking (not always) and a very light vibration when driving (intermittent). All brake rotors are machined. Ive been riding on broken inside boot CVs for 4 years.
I went on their website and they do make one for 4th Gen 4runners but the website said it doesn't fit AWD 4runners or FJ Cruisers. Here's a link to their website: eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html If you're uncertain it will work for your rig, give ECGS a call.
Hi Timmy, my drivers side cv axle has about an 1/8th inch of in and out play from the differential. When its in it looks like its all the way in but is still loose and will slide out a little. What do you think is causing this? Its a freshly installed napa axle. Thanks for your help
@@jake27schannel A little in and out play is normal. The area where that c-clip sits into isn't a perfect fit. If it was, it would be very hard to get the CV axle to seat and lock in place.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you so much for ur response, this has been driving me crazing. The passenger is pretty firm and only the drivers side has that in and out play. When it is “in”, it has minimal vertical play, theres slightly more vertical play when it is “out” but ive put about 1k miles on them and the drivers side has only had like 2 wipeable drops of oil in that time where the cv mates the dif. No running leaks. Does that seem okay? If so I dont think it needs a new bushing yet but this is probably in its future. Thanks for your help!
What year is this 4runner? ECGS mentions that their is no lip, only to make sure the bushing face is flush. It says if you continue hitting it, it will contact the spider gear. Why is yours different?
Open the video description by clicking on "Show More" and then click on the ECGS link we provide. Next, read the Tech Note and this is where I got the information I shared in the video.
The passenger side does not have a needle bearing, so a replacement bushing wouldn’t be relevant on that side. The passenger side has a bearing which shouldn’t need replacing theoretically. - Sean
Replaced axles and driver side bushing, 4 wheel alignment, balanced tires checked all ball joints. . still have steering wheel vibration above 55 mph pulls a little to right.
No, the passenger side tube has a regular roller bearing. If you want to learn about it, I have found a video that does a good job showing how to replace it. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/Yk-0BulWeHA/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman hello. there's 2 reasons why i am asking this, I'm not trying to replace my axle, but i can see the heat spot on the axle where the needle bearing rides. i can feel just a slight wear spot, if i could measure this spot. i would say it has a .002 inches of a wear spot. Looking at these videos. they all look like they have the same wear spot and the axle is still placed back in. I will Emerly cloth this area before i reinsert it. but by doing that it makes the axle slightly smaller then what it is. thats a concern of mine. the second reason im asking because in your video you send it home and wait for that sold knock with the hammer. is the sold knock from the bushing bottoming out or is the sold knock coming from the out part of the driver finally hitting the housing of the diff. where the bushing is flat against the front part of the dif. Or does the bushing bottom out against the housing of the differential in back? if the bushing bottoms out against the housing, I dont see how it can be removed with out alot of effort digging into it... But if its like you said, the tool will still fit behind it. then its all good. ( i am not new to replacing stuff like this, I am only new to this job. plus i am still waiting for this part in the mail. I will receive it tomorrow)
@@spotless624 I have never tried to remove one of these bushings from ECGS. I can't give you the 100% guarantee the extraction tool will work. You seem really worried about it, so I suggest you call the helpful sales staff at ECGS and ask them. They are good people and will take the time to help you. As for the slight loss of shaft metal on the CV, I personally wouldn't be concerned with it. If it does allow for gross movement, you can always replace the CV axle.
@TimmyTheToolman thank you for your info ! Very nice . I will call them ... (( and on a side note, maybe make video replacing it, get another you tibe video out there for you ))) thank you again !!
Mine is leaking even after replacing the old seal with a new oem seal. There is a lot of play in the shaft, do you think the old bearing is causing it to leak?
Wouldnt it be easier to just unscrew the 4 bolts on top of the ball joint without the balljoint out? Nor the outer tie rod? I think ive seen another video were they do it like that and requires less work
You could do it that way but here's the reason why I do it the way I show in the video. Lots of guys, including myself, use loctite on the 4 balljoint bolts. Instead of having to clean up the threads and re-loctite them. I chose to just break free the connection at the outer tie rod and break free the connection at the lower control arm.
I noticed that every time someone installs this it’s always on the driver side. Is there a reason why it’s just the driver side, is there one on the passenger side too?
I just went through this install process on my 2000 4runner. The ECGS bushing is in place and flush. There is tiny lip on the bushing as you mentioned in the video. Now I'm trying to install this new Trakmotiv Extended CV axle. I've greased the end with the c-clip and I can get it installed maybe 3/8" into the new ECGS bushing, but I can't get it to go any further. Like most aftermarket CV axles, there's no lip on the tulip to put a pry bar on there and give it some taps with a hammer. Any thoughts? It still looks like it has about a whole inch that it needs to move to get seated all the way. I've spent 1.5 hours on this thing. So frustrating.
Take a dead blow hammer or brass hammer and hit the end of the CV Axle shaft while keeping the CV shaft parallel to the ground giving it a straight shot into the differential. Some firm blows should fully seat the axle into the diff.
Did that needle bearing come out fairly easy? Making my own removal tool and using my clamshell bushing as size reference; I had a big T-nut laying around that should work but only grips it at the 4 corners. If it was a struggle I'll get a bigger nut and grind it to shape
If you buy a new seal from ecgs is that part OEM? When will ecgs sell the updated tool for the 7.5? Thanks for ALL of your detailed/informative videos. Good timing, my front end is torn apart right now for a ton of general maintenance, lift, and Energy Suspension master kit.
That's a good question Kaleb. I would assume they are providing Toyota OEM seals but I don't know for sure. From the response I got from Chase and Seth @ECGS, it sounds like the redesigned tool is going to be available very soon if not right now. What I would do before ordering is call them and find out if you make the order today, will they be sending you the redesigned version of the 7.5" clamshell tool. Maybe ask them also if they are selling OEM seals. I want to get the redesigned tool myself because Chris gave me his after we finished the job, but it would be nice to have the updated version from ECGS.
I got an answer regarding when the redesigned tool will be available from ECGS. I was told in the next 3-4 weeks, so sometime at the beginning of 2019. I was also told that the seal they sell is a Toyota OEM seal.
Are you saying your factory OEM needle bearing you pulled out isn’t as wide as what we show in the video?… what is shown in this video should be the same for all 3rd gen t4r’s but maybe hit up ECGS to confirm your findings. - Sean
Hi Sean, no I’m not trying to save it. width is same but length wise is different when I removed the bearing it was half of it but for some odd reason it looks like it’s stuck inside but looks permanent.
@@zeelee4858 The needle bearing couldn't split in half. You could distort it with the extraction tool, but it wouldn't be shorter. What you're describing doesn't make sense.
Hey folks I have a couple questions. Is it possible for this problem to occur in a non lifted truck? Mine has the same noise and play discribed in your video so I’m just wondering if something else could of caused it to go bad? Second question, is it safe to drive with it like that? I’m going to do the fix but I can’t get to it right away and we get snow in my area so I don’t want to grande my front dif if I need to use 4x4.
Yes it's possible to happen in non-lifted trucks. I believe it's safe to drive it like this for a while but if the needle bearing completely implodes, the needle bearings and cage fragments could cause damage to the differential internal surfaces and the CV shaft surfaces. You wouldn't necessarily destroy the differential but it could cause the surface damage I mentioned and possibly destroy the oil seal in the process.
Timmy The Toolman ok that’s great to know, I’ll certainly be addressing the issue in the next couple weeks. Thanks a lot for the response man I appreciate it!!
Have new 2022 4Runner with 300 miles on it that has vibration between 40-50, noise goes away in 4wd. Taken to dealership twice, once the noise was not noticeable, 2nd time they heard the noise and did several tests which came back inclusive so they said it was normal, to take it home , drive it, bring back if gets worse. They drained front differential and no metal was found in oil. Used electronic listening device, checked brakes and tires and maybe other tests. If you research it it seems to be bad front drivers side needle bearing. I plan on driving it few more days or weeks then if noise still noticeable, I taking it back to dealership. Any thoughts?
Sure sounds like it could be that needle bearing on the driver side. It's pretty weird that it would have this problem with so few miles on it. Have you grabbed the driver side CV axle and pushed and pulled on it looking for gross play?
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes I shook drivers side vigorously and there is maybe 1/16 or 1/32 of an inch play. Shaking it vigorously you can hear it clanking but you have to do it vigorously.
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
01/22/19- ECGS now has the updated tool available for sale so you should not need to alter the tool in any way to have it work for you to remove the needle bearing. You can disregard the information below unless you happened to buy a used original tool off somebody.
12/11/18- I sent ECGS this video to get their opinion on what we experienced using their removal tool. The following is a response from Chase Perry @ ECGS:
The T8 and the T9 fit fine, our video was of a T8 they drop in. The 7.5 tolerances are much tighter the gap between the side gear and needle bearing is not as much, so the tool struggles to go in. We have redesigned the 7.5 tool by making it a little thinner and the OD a little smaller which should solve the problem but this is only an issue on the 7.5 however the bevel can be helpful on all the tools. The redesigned tool will be available in 3-4 weeks, probably at the beginning of 2019. If you're interested in buying an oil seal through them, the seals they sell are Toyota OEM seals.
12/10/18 - I spoke on the phone with Seth @ ECGS this morning and we talked about the issue with the extrication tool they make. He did say they know about the problem and they are currently re-designing the tool. If you do happen to have the older version of the tool, just take a little bit of the length off the nut and try to fit it in the differential. If it's still too tight, take a little more material off. Just err on the side of taking too little off at first and keep test fitting until you get the nut down to the right size to fit in. You just want to avoid removing too much material and then not have the nut grab the needle bearing very well. Seth also said the experience with driving the bushing in is varied. Some people have a very easy time installing it while others have the experience we had requiring more force to drive it in.
Seems you could just as easily use a blind bearing puller (which many already have or able to rent) and skip their tool all together.
@@DP-np5mm Maybe that would work. ECGS did re-design the tool so hopefully it's easier to insert behind the needle bearing. If you give the blind bearing puller a try, let us know how it worked for you. Thanks for the suggestion.
Hi Timmy-
Ya, I had to do some heavy
chamferring" of the 4 corners to allow the tool to drop right in.
@@ken85225 You must have gotten one of the old tools. I used the updated one recently and it went in without a fight.
I'm actually having the same issue you guys had and I just bought the ECGS bushing and removal tool a few days ago and this is May 2022. I'll try a few more times with some tapping before I start using the grinding wheel. Man, this is so frustrating.
Watched this video prior to making this repair on my 2001 4Runner. If it helps anyone, save an old axle and take it apart. The part that goes into the clamshell makes an excellent tool to install the bushing that will hold itself square when you are doing this without an extra set of hands. Make sure that it’s in the splines properly and you can insert a pipe or piece of wood and drive the bushing home solo. Best part is afterwards you can still use the piece of the old axle and reboot it as a trail spare 👍
@@atj2158 Thanks for the tip.
I just finished this repair on my Tundra today, your video helped so much. I hit a couple snags, but the biggest was driving that bushing in, took 3 hours 😵after a couple thousand hammer strikes it went, the tool was so chewed up but it fixed the issue, so worth it! Thx for the walkthrough!
@@niradz You're welcome. I'm happy to know our video helped you get the job done.
I love how every time I need to fix something on my 4runner I can always find a video on your channel for it , I love it , thanks again for a quality videos helps alot,
You're welcome. Great to hear our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching!
Detailed explanation and excellently filmed.
Thanks Dave. We're glad you think so. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Fantastic video, so informative, great camera shots, great lighting. Very well done, thanks!
Thanks Darrel. We appreciate the compliment. Yours very welcome and Happy Wrenching.
Excellent presentation. Words and pictures baby!! Perfect explanation of the issues AND the resolution alongside carefully thought out video and imagery of your steps. You guys are going to make a (shady NO - shade tree) mechanic out of me! Subscribed!
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! Auto Mechanics is something everyone can do. With the Right Information, Right Tools and Right Level of Patience, you can be a very successful DIY Auto Mechanic. Thanks for subscribing and Happy Wrenching!
Best video yet ( have seen four ). Thank you.
Thanks! We're glad you like it and you're very welcome.
👏👏👏👏👏 honestly the best do it yourself explanation I've seen. Very detailed down to not destroying the rubber on the tie rods and ball joints. Plus giving directions for people that don't have a friend to help lol.
Thank you Joshua. We really appreciate your nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
Dude… I have researched soooooo much trying to figure out why I have that play and that sound, you’re a hero. Holy shit I was gonna swap the whole damn axle
Glad to be of help to you Robert. Good luck with the bushing install.
The ECGS modification seems like a good solution to this design issue and your attention to installation details puts your instructional videos in the top tier. Some seem to have more difficulty than others when installing this bushing even after freezing the bushing -- one person eventually had to use a 3lb hammer to install the frozen bushing. I realize there are a number of factors that could cause this like a person's skill level, tools used, freezing technique, workspace clearance, etc. But note that Toyota's T-SB-26-15 calls for installing the OEM needle bearing, without freezing, by using just a "rubber mallet" to press the part with a 39 mm adapter attached to a conventional bearing driver handle. So, another factor causing installation difficulty could be the ECGS part itself, like too much variability in the allowance on this interference fit bushing, bushing material, etc. My question is, if it becomes necessary to eventually remove the ECGS bushing for some reason, could it be difficult to remove with a bearing puller, with added risk of differential axle-bore damage, if a lot of force was needed to press it in?
Using the same tool that you used to extract the needle bearing would probably be best to remove the bushing if you ever needed to. We've never had to remove one so have no idea how hard it would be to get out. It might be a bit of a fight but I highly doubt the bore of the differential would be damged during the extraction.
As a Landcruiser and Tacoma owner I really appreciate your videos 👍
Thanks! We appreciate your appreciation of our work.
Must be nice to have a friend! The only things I spend more time on than rigging up ways to hold brakes are swearing and bandaging. Great video, really really helpful
Yes, having an extra set of hands definitely makes a lot of these jobs easier. Glad you found the video helpful. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you so much for this detailed video. I need to do this job and this video gave me the confidence to tackle the job. Keep up the great work!
You're very welcome. It's great to know our video gave you the confidence to tackle it.
Just did this yesterday on my Tacoma, used a lot of the info here to do it. Thank you for all the detail!
You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out.
EXCELLENT INFORMATIVE YESTERDAY I INSTALLED THE SAME IN MY 2000 TOYOTA 4R NOW ZERO ROAD VIBRATIONS AND I DID NOT HAVE TO SAND THE TOOL FOR IT TO GET IN VERY EASY
Yeah, ECGS redesigned the tool about a month after we shot this video. The new design fits well. Good job getting it done.
@timmythetoolman I have a 2002 Toyota 4Runner. I installed a LT kit not to long ago on it (MCM Fab). At first the front springs were to stiff (1800x0300x0600S). However, after an alignment it sounded fine. I ended up switching to softer front springs so the front dropped a tad. Needless to say a weird vibration/rumble developed. This happens at low speeds even when coasting. Almost has a low knocking type sound when coming to a stop naturally in neutral (No braking). The vibration stays pretty consistent when accelerating up to 70mph. The knocking really only seems to be heard at low speeds though. The fixes I have resorted to were that I bought 1600x0300x0600S springs, which dropped the front another inch or so. The CV axles are nearly level now. I just replaced the needle bearing and nothing changed. The sound is still there. I checked the engine, axle, transmission mounts, etc and they all look good. Everything up front is solid. The LBJ's are fairly new as I replaced them when I installed the LT kit. Everything is tight up front, no missing bolts or loose nuts. When I jack up a tire and spin it it sounds normal, just the typical sound of the rotor passing through the brake pads. I checked the U-joints and didn't notice any play but I could be wrong. I am at my wits end! Any ideas!
This sounds like a hard problem to rectify. It sounds like you've addressed all the possible culprits. Have you checked the wheel bearings for play?
@@TimmyTheToolman I did the basic wheel bearing check I've learned over the years. The sound/rumble doesn't seem to change when I turn the wheel in either direction. Could another bearing have gone out in side the front axle? Thanks for the reply!
@@TimmyTheToolman I believe I isolated the sound. I put blocks under the front tires, jacked up the rear, put the vehicle in neutral and spun the rear tires. All the binding noise is coming from the rear, more so near the right rear tire. Any ideas?
@@MC-nd3zl Wheel bearing
@@TimmyTheToolman I'll hopefully be able to rip into this tomorrow. Will keep you updated what I find.
Possibly one of the best workshop videos I've seen. The details, socket sizes, lighting, sound and an honest appraisal of the special tool being used. I wish they were all like this.
Thanks for the nice compliment Gary. Shortly after we shot this video, ECGS did an improvement of the tool nut. They sent me one about a month after the video and I just recently got to use it on a buddy's rig and it worked great.
Excellent video! Thanks for all the help. Wasted hours trying to get the removal tool to fit. Wish I had watched this video first. If you are installing the ECGS bushing make sure you watch this entire video.
Thanks Paul. ECGS did update the tool shortly after we shot this video but I have not had the opportunity to try out the new and improved removal nut they reengineered. I'm guessing you had the original tool as well and that's why it fought you.
Great comprehensive video. My 06 Sequoia has the 7.5" ring gear. I diagnosed the low rumbling in the front end myself by the play in the CV axle at the housing, then spent a few hours on the internet searching for the bearing to no avail, then on a Tacoma forum I saw "ECGS" and within 10 minutes had the bushing and puller ordered. The Sequoia has 187,000 easy miles and no lift, but parts still wear out! I don't mind buying the tool because I also have a 06 Tundra with 155,000 on it so its time is coming. It's also overdue for a secondary air injection system failure too...but I know how to fix that because the Sequoia came first on that as well! Glad I found your channel because the Tacos share so many parts and systems from 1st Gen Tundras. But I got a V8 LOL! Thanks for your good work and I'm now subscribed! Just waiting on a nice warm day to do the fix.
Glad you found our channel Joe. Good luck with the job when the weather gets a bit nicer.
Thank you for making such an in depth tutorial, you’ve given me the confidence to get this part on order!
You're very welcome. ECGS redesigned the extraction tool, so you should have no issues with the needle bearing removal. Good luck with the job.
I had the same problem the 4x4 shop had a problem with leaking after the installation but the bushing does a wonderful job of getting rid of vibration and noise!.
Yes, the bushing makes that connection tight with zero play.
Thank you for the very informative video! Appreciated you took the time to explain things thoroughly as well as provided torque specs! A+ video for sure
Thanks Albert. We appreciate the nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks bud. I'll crawl under mine tomorrow. I'm hunting a steering wheel vibration
You're welcome. Hope you figure it out.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I didn't need the how to, though it does make it easier for me. This did lead me down the road to buying these bushings since I was having a hard time finding the needle bearings. I did find the bearings it just seams like these bushings a superior product. Their tool needs some more thought, I'm going for the Pittsburgh Slide Hammer And Bearing Puller set from Harbor Freight so I have them for future projects.
You're welcome Aaron.
I just did this and it for sure took longer than it looks and harder to get that needle bearing out with that tool i also had to grind mine down and I was surprised how messed up the outer edge of the bushing got when hitting it with a hammer but managed to safely get it in there once it was started. I should have ordered 2 bushings just incase we ruined the 1st one trying to get it in.
Were you using a seal driver when knocking the bushing in? That seems weird the bushing got mangled with installing it.
@Timmy The Toolman I was using a big socket but think it was a hair too big so then we made a hard wooden cylinder then finally used the back end of another size socket with some rebarb for the extension rod to hammer on
@@stock7628 Gotcha
I’ve been chasing a vibration in my sequoia. My driver side cv is way worse than what yours is. Definitely doing this next
Good luck with th3 job Luke.
8:02 .... the recent a/m Napa front driveshaft axles recently installed on my rig are sorta wobbly like that right there
That play comes from how Toyota designed the carrier and from wear of the needle bearing. I don't think it has anything to do with the aftermarket axle.
Awesome video guys! Ty!!
I have the same noise & a 3” lift,
Who’d a thought this would be an issue.. Anyway,I ordered the kit & thanks to you I can avoid too much cursing while installing. Happy motoring ✌🏽
Hope it fixes your issue and good look with the install. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy thanks for this video and for showing all the caveats of this job. ECGS makes it look so easy..
With their new improved tool, extracting the needle bearing shouldn't be a big deal. But, driving in that bushing wasn't easy and the way we did it in the video was the only way I could see it working. The bushing for us didn't slide in easy at all. You need to do firm blows with a hammer and that can't be done in the tight confines of the control arm. We really needed to extend out further so we could do hard enough blows with the hammer and that's why we decided to marry up the brass drift to the seal driver tool. Because of this, it really makes this a two-person operation. One person holding the seal driver against the face of the bushing sleeve while also holding the brass drift against the end of the seal driver handle. I suppose a person could do this on their own but I would imagine there would be lots of cursing involved. If you have somebody that can help you with driving in the bushing, that's what I highly recommend you do.
Thank you guys for this video it will help everyone a lot. This is the detailed video i believe everyone needs. Were not going to see any of this good stuff on t.v.
You're welcome Mike. We're glad you like the video. Wow, you consider us better than TV. That's saying something. Thanks!
Man u r a great teacher. Appreciate ur step by step explanation. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the compliment. It's great to know you appreciate the detail we put into our videos.
Thanks Guys! This video was a great resource as I performed this job in my driveway this weekend.
You're very welcome Paul. Glad our video helped you out.
Thanks for this video! I have 2012 Tundra with only 50k miles and I have periodic humming noise hmm...hmm...hmm at 20mph under no load (mostly) This is very prevalent in cold weather, and rare in the summer when there is cold morning. It goes away when the truck is completely warm and driven for a while. You can even feel the same vibration in the steering wheel. Possibly the same problem? Thanks
@lifeisfuneh Yes, it's possible the needle bearing is your problem.
Don't worry about making special tool better, companys pay big money for R&D. think they should send you a nice check. Great video going to tackle this job soon.
They have since updated the tool, it’s a tight fit with tight tolerances so if you angle it weird going in, it will seem like it doesn’t fit properly.
- Sean
Just order the plain bearing and the seal on the tool thanks for your help should be here in a few days. I was able to fish out one needle bearing I think the other one was chopped up when the previous guys that installed the CV joints and a lift kit.
Gotcha. Glad you were able to figure out why your CV axle wasn't going in.
Finally an answer to what that sound and vibration is that's been driving me crazy last 6 months! Timmy, thanks! Love the videos, keep up the great work. Did Seth happen to mention when the updated tool might be available?
Hey David, hope it fixes your issue. Seth didn't say but you could always call them and ask before making your order. It sounded like to me they would have the new design out soon.
I finally got around to the install. Couple observations. I found that removing the shock really made access a lot better when driving in the bushing. Did it by myself without any extension. The modified tool from ECG still required a pretty solid tap to get it behind the bearing. I noticed after I got the bearing out the tap appears to knock a tiny piece off the bearing. Hoping that made its way down to the bottom of the diff and captured by the magnet. Whats your thoughts on ECG's oil recommendation of Lucas 85w140? I put it in the front. Man that stuff is thick. Considering putting in the back too.
I am currently having a vibration from about 58-63mph in the steering wheel. 2018 4Runner TRD off road. Which is why I am here. It has the upgraded wheels and tires from factory however I do not have any lift. I do have play on my coupling and am currently dealing with Toyota for this issue. Of course they say it’s a balance/alignment issue. I asked them to test drive a brand new 2020 TRD off road with the same wheels and tires. SAME ISSUE with only 2 miles on the odometer. This is a Toyota issue which for some reason hasn’t been posted yet. I’m not sure why but it’s ridiculous that a brand new 4Runner would drive like that. The Toyota tech tried to tell me “it may have flat spots in the tires from sitting.” I previously drove my Jeep Jk with 37” Pitbull rockers from Destin FL to Moab UT and had no vibrations on a 26hr drive. This is clearly the issue. We just have to get Toyota to recognize and fix it.
That would blow me away if the new front differentials have the same issue but I guess I shouldn't be surprised either. Auto manufacturers probably stick with designs that they think work even though consumers like us know better.
Timmy The Toolman blows my mind as well. Even the salesman was surprised.
@@MATINICUS94 Maybe East Coast Gear Supply knows if the newer Toyotas have the same problem with the differential carriers. it would be interesting to hear what they say.
Is the needle bearing a Manufactured Defect the cause of the play in the Drive Axle.
It's not the way the needle bearing is made but rather how the clamshell housing is made. The ECGS website explains it well.
Great vid. I am replacing my shocks soon and I will do this at the same time to save work later on.
Glad you like it Chris. Good luck with the job.
I did have the same issue with the piece going in. I did called ECGS they told me to grind i little bit in the edge... but it did work fine..
Thanks for sharing this Fredy. I knew we couldn't be the only ones having this issue. I'm going to call ECGS today and hopefully talk to them regarding this problem. If they just shorten the nut a little, it will make it easier for future people performing this job.
Awesome video just ordered my part and can't wait to have that vibration to be gone.
Thanks Mike and good luck with the job.
Is there a need to do this for the passenger side? Or is the needle bearing only on the driver side?
There's only a needle bearing of the passenger side.
This video is what I needed! Perfect. Thank you!
craig cook #sicmods... it’s what we do.
Wow! What a great video. SUPER informative. Thank you for making this.
Thanks Mike. You're very welcome.
Great video and tutorial. Looks easy. If I were to do it, being OCD, I would change seals out too while there, then fluid. Just being OCD>
If you're going to replace the differential seals, you should watch this video. ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html It was done on a GX470 but we show a cool new tool made by Wits End that make the insertion of the new seals very easy. The link to the tool is in the video description. The long handle of the Wits End tool also makes it much easier to install the ECGS bushing.
It looks to me that you should have tried putting the tool nut in with the flat part in the diff the opposite way you had it . Did you try it that way? Why else would you design the tool that way? It seems to me that there must be a reason that they would have just used a flat on both sides nut. It would cost them extra to machine the nut for no reason.
I love your videos by the way.
Have you ever used a ball joint separator like the harbor freight #99849? I really like mine instead of the tool you used.
Also do you ever put a screwdriver in the rotor fins against the caliper to hold the rotor while tightening the nuts? Any reason to not do that.
That's interesting you mentioned the orientation of the nut. I did try it the other way around but it made no difference. That protrusion on the nut was not hitting anything and inhibiting us getting the nut in place. The problem is the length of the nut. I talked with ECGS this morning and they did know about the issue with the tool and are currently redesigning it.
Great to hear you like the videos Sean and I are making. I have not used that Harbor Freight balljoint separator. I've had really good luck with the OTC front end service kit I bought. I have used that kit a ton. Thanks for reminding me of that trick with the screwdriver in the rotor. Somebody had told me about that in the past but I forgot about it. That would have worked as well. Happy Wrenching!
Very well made and detailed video. Was fun to watch!
Thanks Jay. We're glad you enjoyed the video and we appreciate the compliment. Happy Wrenching!
Hello Sirs!! Does this "FIX" work for Manual Transmissions 4 Runners as well?? Please reply as soon as possible. Thanks A BUNCH!!!!
This bushing will work on both a manual and an automatic because it has no correlation to a transmission. This FIX is for the front clamshell of a front differential. So the only truck this won’t work with is a 2wd because it lacks the front diff altogether.
- Sean
Have you done the tube bearing on the passenger side before?
I'm getting tons of up and down movement in the axle at diff coupling.
Hey Adam, no we haven't replaced the passenger side bearing before.
Is it a bearing on the passenger side? I thought I remember it was just like the ECGS bushing on the passenger side. I'm getting axel vibration on the passenger side...
Yes! I have a lot of play in both LH/RH CV axles where they connect to the clamshell along with gnarly front end vibration that seems prevalent on both sides. I’m planning on following your tutorial for the LH bushing replacement but the schematics I have show a ball bearing and a needle bearing on the RH side?? Any insight on which bearing to purchase for the LH side? ECGS only sells a ball bearing for it (‘99 4Runner 4x4)
Got my tires balanced, it fixed passenger side vibration. Stuck a go pro to watch the Axel's and everything looks good, even @ 80mph.
I can feel a bit of slop and wiggle them around with my hands, but they look good at speeds and aren't making any vibrations
Im doing this soon when i get my order in. Lf is real loose. I also have movement in wheel on bumps. Everything is tight. I got 2010 tacoma
This should fix the issue. Good luck with the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman finally got it done. took 1 hour to get axel out. no more slop in the axel and feels better.
@@tallicafan85 I'm glad you got it done and it fixed your issue. Good job!
Great repair guys
Thanks Antonio.
What is the bearing on the passenger side called? I think mine is making a terrible grinding sound about 45mph. Replaced the wheel bearing but now i think its on the inside of the cv/ diff connection. I just dont know what the bearing would be called
I don't know it's official name, but here's a video showing how to replace it. ua-cam.com/video/Yk-0BulWeHA/v-deo.htmlsi=hCG0aSA6eXZK_WMN
Hey Timmy does the passenger side also have a needle bearing? I noticed when I was underneath my 2000 tundra that both side of the differential have a lot of slop of the cv axles? I am getting ready to purchase the bushings wanted to make sure I get 2 not just 1.
Thanks Enrique
Hey Enrique, the passenger side has a larger roller bearing so it is different. I've never had to replace one. It would require pulling off the differential tube and using a press to replace it.
Thanks for the quick response, after spending time scrolling the comments on this video I found the answer you told another person. Again I highly appreciate it. Other thing is the roller bearing located inside the differential tube. I was looking into replacing it. Is it doable at a home garage?
Thanks again
@@enriquemejia3554 I think the roller bearing replacement is doable but I'm not 100% sure. I've never done it so I'd have to consult the factory service manual to see what it entails. I'll take a look at it and get back to you.
Ok sounds good 👍🏼
Great in depth commentary on how deep to drive the bushing home! I just did this solo on an 07 Tundra with T9 extractor tool and drove the new bushing in flush with a wheel bearing press plate and long brass drift, the only other tool I needed was a 39mm 12 point socket for the axle nut which is just above most in stock sizing at my local auto parts stores but it was in the rental kit. I had a rotational squeak on test drive just after install, put it 4wd then back into 2wd and no more squeak, must be I got some gear oil over to the bushing and quieted it down? Before replacement the CV tulip had loads of play and a loud grumble in 2wd with slight vibration, after replacement there's almost ZERO tulip play and super smooth rotation. Great solution to this Toyota OEM problem!
We're glad you like the video and found it helpful. Great job getting the job done and we're glad it fixed your issue. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
The new bearing is longer than the old one, and you might not get the tool in there anymore to grab lip because of the added length. At least this is what I experienced on a 5th gen 4runner.
With a lot of great tips from Timmy, I have completed the removal steps, and I am now stuck on the bushing installation. Just as Timmy noted, getting the bushing started will be a struggle if you are working alone. Well, I am working alone and struggling. In a Gen1 Tacoma, I have even less space than Timmy did, so I am sure that's part of the problem. I have tried to install it five times, freezing it before each attempt. It's been a long, frustrating day. The OD of the bushing seems larger than it needs to be for a good press fit, but there's not much I can do about that. Bearing OD is 1.530" to 1.531", bushing OD is 1.535" to 1.536".
It’s a tight fit, and as you’ve seen first hand can be a little bit of a struggle/frustration! Hope you get it in soon. Btw, did you freeze it overnight? That should a little.
@@TimmyTheToolman I did freeze it. Maybe helped a little, but I can't seem to drive it in enough to even get a good start. I literally tried all day yesterday. Never been more frustrated in 35 years of vehicle work.
Finally got the bushing in. Big hammer (3-lb blacksmith hammer) made the difference. Also used a makehift drift pin (1/2" drive extension). Taping it to my installation tool made it much easier to do by myself.
@@dand2891 Great job persevering and getting it done. Good idea taping the extension to the seal driver tool.
@@TimmyTheToolman ECGS told me that there is 0.250" nominal clearance between the diff and the CV axle. That's why they said that my 0.150" bushing protrusion was not a problem. I buttoned up the truck today. My test drive produced no strange noises that might suggest improper interference with the bushing. No leaks. And, the RUMBLING VIBRATION IS GONE! Thanks for the guidance and cheerleading along the way. On to my next project (probably the leaking valve covers).
How does he like the sleeve compared to the needle bearing
It fixed his problem. He was getting a vibration and roaring sound at higher speeds and now he doesn't have that anymore. That bushing really tightens up the mating of the CV axle to the differential. There's virtually no play.
You did such great job explain all the steps.
Thank you Zeena Warrior Princess. I guess that's something you've heard tons of times but I couldn't resist seeing your name.
, I do..
I'm getting a bad vibration between 20-30 accelerating and slowing down. Would it most likely be the needle bearing?
I've been chasing this vibration for awhile, thought it was my rear leaf spring angle but swapped back to stock and the vibration has gotten worse.
@bangbang44500 Have you checked your u-joints, carrier bearing for the rear driveshaft and your wheel balancing?
whats up timmy, have a grind/vibration when i let off the gas around 70. replaced drive shaft , new diff , new wheel bearings, replaced trany, new upper arms, ball joints and still a vibration/grind . any ideas? thanks for your vids
1999 4runner 2wd lifted on 31
Man, you've replaced so much and it's still there. I really don't know why the grind/vibration just manifests when you're going fast and then let off the gas. The things you've replaced would have been the possible culprits I would have thought of. Which wheel bearings were replaced, front or rears? Has the vehicle been involved in an accident? I'm wondering if there's a bent axle.
thanks for the reply, had some bad exhaust hangers . just got it back today. drives like a dream . your vids rule👊🏼 keep it up
@@johnnyg2466 Cool. Glad you got it figured out. Nice to hear you like the videos Sean and I have been making and we will definitely keep cranking them out. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Helped me immensely! Thank you!
You'e welcome Jason.
My bushing has some play after a few thousand miles. Had none when first installed. Is it normal for this to happen after it breaks in?
I would say no, it’s a solid bushing. Not a needle bearing that can develop play. I would reach out to ECGS and see what they have to say.
- Sean
Ran into the same issue with the removal tool/part. I also had to grind it down. Unacceptable!! Every other item in the kit worked great.
Did you buy a recently made kit or did you have an older model? Shortly after we produced this video, ECGS redesigned the extraction nut. I have used the updated version and it fit well and didn't require any grinding. ECGS does have different sized nuts for different Toyota differentials. If you did have a recently made tool set, maybe they sent you the wrong extraction nut by accident or you possibly ordered the wrong kit for your application. If you call ECGS, they'll send you out a replacement nut. Their customer service is excellent.
Recently bought. Actually bought in mid September, 2022. I did cal them and they refunded $15. Gotta say, it was a headache and wasted time trying to make it fit. Ended up shaving the ends gradually until it finally worked. PIA but did work. Every other item that came in the kit worked great.
@@one100billneoone4 Yeah, sounds like they sent you the wrong extraction nut. You got the job done and you now have a superior bushing for your CV axle to ride on.
@@TimmyTheToolman
Thank you for the video. Precise and clear instruction!! Awesome!!!
@@one100billneoone4 You're very welcome. Thanks for the compliment!
Does the passenger side share the same needle bearing through the spider gear? My passenger side cv wobbles also.
No, just the driver side. The passenger side has a roller bearing.
Did he do both axle shaft sides or only that one side did he put one sleeve in each side of the diff
It's just the driver side that has the issue. The passenger side isn't a problem.
It's actually a different type of bearing on the passenger side. It's a ball bearing instead of a needle. The ecgs site has that part as well.
Excellent video! I have a 2002 Tundra with a vibration that develops at 60 mph and gets worse at 70. My truck is new to me and is not lifted. Will this likely fix a non-lifted truck too? Or should I look to diagnose other issues. The truck is non abused one owner with 94,000 miles. It’s in excellent condition except fo the vibration. Much appreciate any thoughts...
Hey Mike, we're glad you like the video. Your vibration could be caused by a worn needle bearing on the driver side of the front differential even though you're not lifted. But, before you go down that road, I'd check you're wheel balancing first. Does your steering shake a bit or is it just a weird vibration you feel?
Thanks Timmy for the reply. I decided to order the parts from East Coast and they’re on the way to me. My steering wheel shakes a little bit, but it’s due to the vibration. Around 70 it makes my teeth rattle (very slightly) but it a profound vibration. No noises that seem unusual, some say they hear a “growl” but I don’t have that issue. I’ll report back after I get it installed. Thanks a million. I subscribed!
@@mikerasmussen7367 Ok Mike, I hope it works out for you. Let me know if it fixed your vibration issue.
I live in vallejo, I just got new seals from a leaking power steering pump, on my 2006 tacoma. the tech saw that I also add a leak by cv axel. removed the cv to take a look, and I add tons of metal shavings, ate of bearings all in the front diff. I also got my tacoma regear two years ago.the guy that did it. will be taking a look at his work.. and warranty his work. I. was wondering if you do side work on putting this bushing in, or do you know someone that will. thanks
Hey Robert, sorry but we don't do side work. Not enough time in our schedules.
Great video! Thank you!
Thanks and you're very welcome!
Is there a front diff clam shell gauge 2000 4 runner sr5 going from stock to air locker do you have a video on front diff locker I can reference
We don't have a video for installing an air locker into a front diff on a 3rd Gen 4runner.
Great tutorial. Question: How does the special nut stay in place after you position it behind the needle bearing? What keeps it from falling down? Thanks
Glad you like the video. You end up threading the rod of the tool into the nut several turns so it's not likely to fall off. As a safety, you stuff something into the space behind the needle bearing so if it does fall off, it's not going to be able to drop further into the differential. We use a small plastic sandwich bag to stuff into the differential.
Thank you for responding at 21:10 the nut is in position without the rod. It must be pretty snug in there.
@@romo2517 Yes, it does fit snug in there. This is after we altered the nut to make it easier to insert behind the needle bearing. The tool has since been redesigned and I don't know how tight the new one fits in.
Is this the appropriate process for a 2nd gen Tacoma?
It would be the same process. I think your 2nd Gen has an 8" diff and not a 7.5" like the 3rd Gen 4runners have. Make sure you get the correct bushing, extractor set, and installation tool. They now make a nice custom installation tool rather than the seal driver I used 4 years ago.
Thank you so much for your informative and helpful videos.
You're welcome buddy.
After lifting 3 inches I have noticed lateral play in the cvs on both sides and cluncking on rough roads. Are the new bearing applicable to both sides? I see it fixes horizontal slop but will the bearings fix the lateral in and out play of the cvs from the diff housing?
The little bit of in and out play is normal. The c-clip sits in a slot bigger that the c-clip which allows for some movement. So no, the bushing doesn't eliminate the normal in and out play of the CV shaft. The bushing is just for the driver side. The passenger side has a roller bearing, not a needle bearing.
Thanks Good video
?? Have you ever replaced the seal outer (near the wheel) of the cv axle for a 2006 runner? Mine needs to be replace since it basically came apart when I pull the cv axle out.
so far I haven't got it out.
Hey Terry, we haven't performed an axle seal replacement on a 2006 4runner but I assume it would be similar to a 3rd Gen 4runner which we have done. To get the seal out, a slide hammer puller is nice to use. If you don't have one, one of those hooked seal pullers would probably work. But, before you remove the seal, pay attention to how far in it's seated into the differential and try to get it back in the same spot. Check out this video to get an idea of how to replace the seal: ua-cam.com/video/mh1BK5--KrU/v-deo.html
Woops, I just realized you are probably talking about the dust seal on the back of the knuckle. We have replaced a seal like that as part of a Manual Hub Conversion on a 3rd Gen 4runner: ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.html A two or 3 jaw slide hammer puller should be able to get it off with ease if you have one if it's similar to the 3rd Gen 4runner. If you can't hook the seal from the inside, you can hook the lip of the seal on the outside diameter. If you don't have a slide hammer puller, maybe you could use a brass drift and hammer or a punch and hammer to knock the seal off the steering knuckle.
Looks like if the plastic bag was push back a little more the pulling nut/flange can be put through the hole more horizontal, then pulled forward into location. Not sure without having done it. Just a thought. Either way love the videos guys. Take care
We actually used a plastic bag in our most recent ECGS bushing replacement on a 5th gen 4runner and it worked really well. Th bewildered idea here is that you don’t accidentally loose the little tool that bushings the original OEM bushing out..
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman right on, I wasn't saying the plastic bag was the issue ( I completely understand the thought process of having something there to insure not dropping anything inside the diff). I was just wondering if it was pasha deeper that would allow the pulling nut/flange to be inserted through the needle bearing and once thru flipped up vertical and against the backside of the needle bushing.. like I was saying without having tried it, it's tough to tell.
@scottygrooms The nut needed some tweaking, and ECGS did that shortly after we filmed this video. The redesigned version is much better.
I seem to be having a bunch of excessive play in the CV and noise when going over bumps but my Tundra is an 07. Is it also prevalent on that series ? The ECGS site only says through 06.
Hard to say if it’s the CV itself or inside the differential. I would give ECGS a call and explain your situation and inquire why your model year isn’t listed.
- Sean
does this apply to the 4th gens as well? I have a vibration when braking (not always) and a very light vibration when driving (intermittent). All brake rotors are machined. Ive been riding on broken inside boot CVs for 4 years.
I went on their website and they do make one for 4th Gen 4runners but the website said it doesn't fit AWD 4runners or FJ Cruisers. Here's a link to their website: eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html If you're uncertain it will work for your rig, give ECGS a call.
Hi Timmy, my drivers side cv axle has about an 1/8th inch of in and out play from the differential. When its in it looks like its all the way in but is still loose and will slide out a little. What do you think is causing this? Its a freshly installed napa axle. Thanks for your help
I saw in a part of the video u mentioned sometimes the drivers side cv axle slides in and out, is that normal??
@@jake27schannel A little in and out play is normal. The area where that c-clip sits into isn't a perfect fit. If it was, it would be very hard to get the CV axle to seat and lock in place.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you so much for ur response, this has been driving me crazing. The passenger is pretty firm and only the drivers side has that in and out play. When it is “in”, it has minimal vertical play, theres slightly more vertical play when it is “out” but ive put about 1k miles on them and the drivers side has only had like 2 wipeable drops of oil in that time where the cv mates the dif. No running leaks. Does that seem okay? If so I dont think it needs a new bushing yet but this is probably in its future. Thanks for your help!
@@jake27schannel As long as the play isn't excessive causing a vibration or noise and you don't have an oil leak, you're all good.
Thank you for your help!! i was worried
Hey man that’s what I just messaged you about this a few weeks back. Awesome job thanks!!
OHIOMANUSMC Sicmods!!!!
Glad you like it and you're welcome. Good luck getting it done.
What year is this 4runner? ECGS mentions that their is no lip, only to make sure the bushing face is flush. It says if you continue hitting it, it will contact the spider gear. Why is yours different?
Open the video description by clicking on "Show More" and then click on the ECGS link we provide. Next, read the Tech Note and this is where I got the information I shared in the video.
Fantastic video
Hey, we're glad you think so. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Very good instructural video!
Thanks!
Passenger side have the same issue? my passenger side also has the same play. could't find much on google. just a not very good parts diagram. Thanks
The passenger side does not have a needle bearing, so a replacement bushing wouldn’t be relevant on that side. The passenger side has a bearing which shouldn’t need replacing theoretically.
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman Ok . just felt play. going to replace drive shafts when I do bushing. 317000 miles on truck
ua-cam.com/users/shorts91m-f-NbOA8?feature=share
Replaced axles and driver side bushing, 4 wheel alignment, balanced tires checked all ball joints. . still have steering wheel vibration above 55 mph pulls a little to right.
@@fn6553 I'd try the wheel balancing at a different place. Quite often, a vibration at highway speeds is due to improper wheel balancing.
Would this work on a 2001 Toyota Tacoma sr5 im having the same problem can't find one
Yes, it would.
Great video! Thanks for putting this together
Thanks and you're very welcome.
My rig has more of a squeel than a grown..I've replaced everything and was stumped till Ifound this...do you think this is the problem??
Not sure. Is there major play at that bearing when you move the CV shaft like we show in the video?
@@TimmyTheToolman about the same .can you post me the link if its not a hassle
@@joshgraham2516 Post a link to what? We show the play in this very video.
So do both sides have the needle bearing?
No, the passenger side tube has a regular roller bearing. If you want to learn about it, I have found a video that does a good job showing how to replace it. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/Yk-0BulWeHA/v-deo.html
after the bushing is installed... what if the bushing goes bad? can you use that tool to remove the bushing?
I haven't heard of one person replacing this bushing, but if the need ever arises, the extraction tool would work to pull it out.
@@TimmyTheToolman hello. there's 2 reasons why i am asking this, I'm not trying to replace my axle, but i can see the heat spot on the axle where the needle bearing rides. i can feel just a slight wear spot, if i could measure this spot. i would say it has a .002 inches of a wear spot. Looking at these videos. they all look like they have the same wear spot and the axle is still placed back in. I will Emerly cloth this area before i reinsert it. but by doing that it makes the axle slightly smaller then what it is. thats a concern of mine. the second reason im asking because in your video you send it home and wait for that sold knock with the hammer. is the sold knock from the bushing bottoming out or is the sold knock coming from the out part of the driver finally hitting the housing of the diff. where the bushing is flat against the front part of the dif. Or does the bushing bottom out against the housing of the differential in back? if the bushing bottoms out against the housing, I dont see how it can be removed with out alot of effort digging into it... But if its like you said, the tool will still fit behind it. then its all good. ( i am not new to replacing stuff like this, I am only new to this job. plus i am still waiting for this part in the mail. I will receive it tomorrow)
@@spotless624 I have never tried to remove one of these bushings from ECGS. I can't give you the 100% guarantee the extraction tool will work. You seem really worried about it, so I suggest you call the helpful sales staff at ECGS and ask them. They are good people and will take the time to help you. As for the slight loss of shaft metal on the CV, I personally wouldn't be concerned with it. If it does allow for gross movement, you can always replace the CV axle.
@TimmyTheToolman thank you for your info ! Very nice . I will call them ... (( and on a side note, maybe make video replacing it, get another you tibe video out there for you ))) thank you again !!
@@spotless624 If someone hits us up to replace an ECGS bushing, we'll definitely film it. When you call ECGS, tell them Timmy the Toolman says Hi!
Mine is leaking even after replacing the old seal with a new oem seal. There is a lot of play in the shaft, do you think the old bearing is causing it to leak?
It could be that or you don't have the seal driven in to the correct depth.
Wouldnt it be easier to just unscrew the 4 bolts on top of the ball joint without the balljoint out? Nor the outer tie rod? I think ive seen another video were they do it like that and requires less work
You could do it that way but here's the reason why I do it the way I show in the video. Lots of guys, including myself, use loctite on the 4 balljoint bolts. Instead of having to clean up the threads and re-loctite them. I chose to just break free the connection at the outer tie rod and break free the connection at the lower control arm.
I noticed that every time someone installs this it’s always on the driver side. Is there a reason why it’s just the driver side, is there one on the passenger side too?
@@Gunmonkey5 The needle bearing is only on the driver side of the differential.
I just went through this install process on my 2000 4runner. The ECGS bushing is in place and flush. There is tiny lip on the bushing as you mentioned in the video. Now I'm trying to install this new Trakmotiv Extended CV axle. I've greased the end with the c-clip and I can get it installed maybe 3/8" into the new ECGS bushing, but I can't get it to go any further. Like most aftermarket CV axles, there's no lip on the tulip to put a pry bar on there and give it some taps with a hammer. Any thoughts? It still looks like it has about a whole inch that it needs to move to get seated all the way. I've spent 1.5 hours on this thing. So frustrating.
Take a dead blow hammer or brass hammer and hit the end of the CV Axle shaft while keeping the CV shaft parallel to the ground giving it a straight shot into the differential. Some firm blows should fully seat the axle into the diff.
Did that needle bearing come out fairly easy? Making my own removal tool and using my clamshell bushing as size reference; I had a big T-nut laying around that should work but only grips it at the 4 corners. If it was a struggle I'll get a bigger nut and grind it to shape
It comes out fairly easily. It doesn't take a whole lot of force.
If you buy a new seal from ecgs is that part OEM? When will ecgs sell the updated tool for the 7.5? Thanks for ALL of your detailed/informative videos. Good timing, my front end is torn apart right now for a ton of general maintenance, lift, and Energy Suspension master kit.
That's a good question Kaleb. I would assume they are providing Toyota OEM seals but I don't know for sure. From the response I got from Chase and Seth @ECGS, it sounds like the redesigned tool is going to be available very soon if not right now. What I would do before ordering is call them and find out if you make the order today, will they be sending you the redesigned version of the 7.5" clamshell tool. Maybe ask them also if they are selling OEM seals. I want to get the redesigned tool myself because Chris gave me his after we finished the job, but it would be nice to have the updated version from ECGS.
I got an answer regarding when the redesigned tool will be available from ECGS. I was told in the next 3-4 weeks, so sometime at the beginning of 2019. I was also told that the seal they sell is a Toyota OEM seal.
Awesome ordered anyways. Thanks.
Great video! I'm about to do this on a 2010 Tundra. Did you happen to get an alignment after this repair? Or would you not need one?
You don't need an alignment after doing this job. Glad you like the video.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply, appreciate your channel it's been very helpful!
Hey Timmy. I notice my diff is different and it’s a 2002 t4r. I got the bushing out but it was half of the size of yours? Please can you help me ??
Are you saying your factory OEM needle bearing you pulled out isn’t as wide as what we show in the video?… what is shown in this video should be the same for all 3rd gen t4r’s but maybe hit up ECGS to confirm your findings.
- Sean
Hi Sean, no I’m not trying to save it. width is same but length wise is different when I removed the bearing it was half of it but for some odd reason it looks like it’s stuck inside but looks permanent.
@@zeelee4858 The needle bearing couldn't split in half. You could distort it with the extraction tool, but it wouldn't be shorter. What you're describing doesn't make sense.
Why the old needle bearing is different to the new one?
If you simply listen to the video introduction, I explain why ECGS came up with their bushing design to replace the needle bearing.
Hey folks I have a couple questions. Is it possible for this problem to occur in a non lifted truck? Mine has the same noise and play discribed in your video so I’m just wondering if something else could of caused it to go bad? Second question, is it safe to drive with it like that? I’m going to do the fix but I can’t get to it right away and we get snow in my area so I don’t want to grande my front dif if I need to use 4x4.
Yes it's possible to happen in non-lifted trucks. I believe it's safe to drive it like this for a while but if the needle bearing completely implodes, the needle bearings and cage fragments could cause damage to the differential internal surfaces and the CV shaft surfaces. You wouldn't necessarily destroy the differential but it could cause the surface damage I mentioned and possibly destroy the oil seal in the process.
Timmy The Toolman ok that’s great to know, I’ll certainly be addressing the issue in the next couple weeks. Thanks a lot for the response man I appreciate it!!
@@jefferson9428 You're welcome.
Maby i missed it in the video, but why only the driver side affected, east coast only offers driver side
The driver side has a different bearing. It's a roller bearing, not a needle bearing and doesn't have the same issues with failing.
Have new 2022 4Runner with 300 miles on it that has vibration between 40-50, noise goes away in 4wd. Taken to dealership twice, once the noise was not noticeable, 2nd time they heard the noise and did several tests which came back inclusive so they said it was normal, to take it home , drive it, bring back if gets worse. They drained front differential and no metal was found in oil. Used electronic listening device, checked brakes and tires and maybe other tests. If you research it it seems to be bad front drivers side needle bearing. I plan on driving it few more days or weeks then if noise still noticeable, I taking it back to dealership. Any thoughts?
Sure sounds like it could be that needle bearing on the driver side. It's pretty weird that it would have this problem with so few miles on it. Have you grabbed the driver side CV axle and pushed and pulled on it looking for gross play?
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes I shook drivers side vigorously and there is maybe 1/16 or 1/32 of an inch play. Shaking it vigorously you can hear it clanking but you have to do it vigorously.
@@GoBearstyJpyn A 1/16 doesn't sound like gross play but how does it compare to the passenger side?
@@TimmyTheToolman passenger side about same
@@GoBearstyJpyn Not sure that needle bearing is your issue but it's a possibility. Your rig is under warranty and Toyota should fix the problem.