As a retired educator of 38 years, I am impressed with how descriptive your vocabulary is when it comes to describing the mechanical process involved in your videos. You are a master mechanic who just happens to be a master at educating us in how to fix, replace and repair very complicated car problems. Addressing these difficult issues with the right attitude, demeanor and determination makes us all feel we can be successful DIY selfers! Thanks for being such a great example to all of us!
You said it right. This man absolutely deserves the title "Master Mechanic". He's setting a great example for anyone working in that trade, and doing us DIYers one hell of a favor by sharing his knowledge.
I agree except hammering the thriple bearing in the inner cv joint. Impact hammering the inside part will not affect it but hammering the bearing is no no action.
As a entry level technician who has a particular interest in Toyotas, each time I watch one of his videos, it feels like I’m going to tech school online covering a curriculum one video at a time. Amazing stuff always.
I’m with you guys, I own my own 2 bay 2 man auto repair shop, and whenever we have a Toyota comming in for a complicated repair, I have my tech. Watch his vid. Even if it’s a quick breeze through refresher type thing. This guy is top notch , I wish he worked for me!
Mate honestly you will learn soooo much more from a guy like this than those useless workshop trainer vids. But good to learn the oem way first, then stop think about it ll the stuff you learnt and see what you can improve for you.
Note, he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
THIS is the mechanic I would want working on my vehicle. He knows, down to the tiniest detail, exactly what needs to be done, and how to do it. He doesn't rush, and he doesn't take shortcuts. He uses the right tools and is careful and meticulous every step of the way. There are few mechanics that have this level expertise, skill and care.
Lots of them exist the problem is getting them to spend as much time and take as much care on the 5th or 9th car of the day as they did the first. Or getting them to care about any of them as much as their own
@@rockydubois1052 has to do with pay.......as the dealer is concerned with hours produced.-and the tech makes a fraction..... Not all dealers Have all the tools. I never saw one of those crimp tools. I dont miss working on cars at a dealers--PAY SUCKED.
@@harryharry3193 I agree. We have a money obsessed culture and it takes people's focus away from doing quality work. This applies to almost everything, not just mechanic work. It bugs the hell out of me.
Part of the blame goes to the customers who are price obsessed. Doing work this way with ONLY factory parts costs almost double. Most(sadly) will not pay the price for this quality of work. The other part of the blame goes to mechanics short of ethical behavior and shortcutting their work to pad their profits. What came first...chicken or egg.
I was a master technician for over 30 years and have done many many axles, CV joints and boots and yet when I watch this man, I always learn something new and valuable. Another great video, thank you.
Note, he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
@@apivovarov2Just as a diy mech: when your axle is noisy because of the lack of grease - can you still make it silent to change the grease by thicker one or replace the joint cause there is too much play ?
@@apivovarov2 So are you simultaneously admitting his method works while also saying it is technically wrong? Is the difference in viscosity due to the extra dynamics involved in the outer join contorting as well as spinning to accommodate steering?
Couple things: Yellow “ochre” grease is for inboard, black grease is for outboard. Also, you should tap the center of the tulip with a brass drift, not hammer on the roller.
True about the grease.... Yes!! I winced and grumbled about hammering on the roller, but then they withstand much greater force in service and for a much greater period. I am doing precisely this work on my 30 year old Lexus LS400, boots have lasted 30 years!!! Cheers from Australia.
As a former gradeschool coach and sub teacher for over a decade, i really appreciate your calm and descriptive teaching style. Lots of uus really learn alot from your videos. thanks for sharing. :)
@@jessemoral394 my guess is the thicker grease goes on the spider as it has to slip back in to the part on the car. The other side, the boot gets sealed so it won't leak out.
@@jessemoral394 If you order (I did) the Toyota kits (mine is for 4th gen. 4Runner), each individual boot is packed with a packet of grease as well as clamps/snap rings. My inner kit has the lighter colored grease. (FYI..my inner boots were torn....outer boots looked fine (they were Toyota boots)....but decided to replace them as I figured the "labor" is the most difficult and time consuming part of the job....hope this helps..
Note, he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this mechanic, Consumers would definitely be more willing to bring their cars into shops if all mechanics were like this
Note, he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
I've "aged" out of most DIY car projects. I happened onto your videos and kept watching them because you have the skills of a surgeon, albeit on Toyotas. I find your work to be so skillful you make it look effortless even though I know it is not. May the Lord bless you and keep you as well!
LOL! I totally agree...I've also "aged out" for many of these projects. Especially something like this, rolling around on the ground as DIY'er and horsing around messy, heavy components. :)
Amen! The last intense job I did on our cars was replacement of a clutch in my son's Acura Integra. I actually pulled a muscle in my face trying to get the clutch to line up. It made rebuilding the hybrid battery on the 2002 Prius seem easy by comparison. I have to rely on others for the brute force work now that I am in my 70s.
Hello, I work in a company that produces axles for most car makers, brown grease is always used for spiders (tripod) and black, gray grease for joint with balls. Different manufacturers use different grease, but the color relationship is always the same.
yea I just did this job on a toyota sienna with 240k miles and even with the original axles, it was clear that the spider's original grease was lighter and the outer joint had the darker grease. I kept that the same.
on my OEM remanufactured Camry axle that i was replacing the boots on, both the inner and outer boots had the same dark/grey grease when i took them off
One of the best mechanics I've ever seen. Myself included I've been working on cars for over 40 years and I'm truly impressed. Thank you so much for your videos.
I have watched hundreds, if not thousands of hours of educational video on cars and information technology, and this sir is one of the best I've seen. People like you, sir, who share their knowledge from years of experience make the world a better place. Thank you!
Toyota axle boots replaced was excellent. Im 74 and was a licensed Honda tech. All products literally. Also retired corporate. Great job and superp repair. I'm not doing that much anymore but still service my products. Love the fact you stress OEM replacement products and the Toyota boot clamp special tool. Decided to view this while eating but watched it till you were done. You like what your doing that's for sure. Kudos! I'm still a fan of Toyota and their Corolla. 50 million made and under other names as well, not seen in North America.
I do most of my own car repairs. I don't even have a Toyota at this time but I still enjoy watching your videos. Thats how much I respect your work. Great job my friend!
What is your brand of Choice. I have been getting nothing but new Honda's starting back in 1987. I found the Toyota to be a bit bland and soft. Later on in life I purchased my first new Toyota Camry. At that point I liked it more than the Honda. It was a smoother quieter ride mellowed out overtime.
I love how positive and calm you are even with how obviously difficult this whole entire thing is. You give us hope 😀 Kudos to the camera man as well. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
Note, he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
The best teacher. Articulate, crispy clear instruction, no stone unturned. Kept it simple. Nice clean organized shop. Tools on the left, bench in the middle, trash on the right. Everythings in place. Learned a lot. Thank you
Sr. You are an outstanding person. I’m a DIY type but seek the help of a knowledgeable person when I need it. I Do Not trust stealerships. Toyota of Colorado Springs,CO once gave me an estimate to replace The Rack an Pinion, battery, and quite a few more pieces on my Tundra. It was about $6-7k. I declined! Years later, I bought the rack and took it to a shop to have installed, the shop asked me why I replaced it if there was nothing wrong with it. I replace the battery 5 years later, it never failed when Toyota wanted to replace it. I appreciate your knowledge and honesty when explaining the process of the repairs you do. Thank you, Herbert
I am continually impressed by your depth of knowledge, calm, well-paced delivery, and the camera work. I've done this job many times with my volkswagens. Disassembled the bearings, thoroughly cleaned them, then struggled to reassemble the outer cage and six balls to the inner portion. Your way is much easier. Never let a little pitting of the balls prevent me from reusing the bearings.
Excellent video! I don’t even own a Toyota right now. But your calm demeanor and how you explain each step, I still feel like I’m learning something important, and is why I watched the entire 40 minute video! Keep up the great work!
Thank you, your a blessing to all of us diy people that need to save money. You are very thorough and precise, even down to the different greases. Thank you a million. My brother in-law has stage 4 cancer and I need to do this today so they can drive to Chicago tomarrow. It may be my wife's last time to be with him, he's going fast it seems. You've help a lot of people over this chanel. Bless you and your business. God be yith you. If you ever need anything from Prescott Valley AZ were here for you. Thanks Troy.
With all due respect, I would wail on the inner joint yoke from the forged area around the center spline hole instead of the precision bearings. Maybe a socket of the proper size would work for this. Love the videos and great advice.
I was thinking the same thing. He is sooo smart I can't believe he did that and the fact that more people don't say something. He just put 50,000 extra miles on it... everyone has flaws just like me :)
The force still be transmitted through the bearings. This could put flats on the bearings. Brass hammers are great for many tasks though. @@andrewjones2167
@@andrewjones2167 Yeah, i was a bit surprised at that as well, just using the rag. I realize they are hardened but it made me wonder if there was any visible damage.
I agree , impressed with his past videos . Very surprised when installing the spider. Also when removing that same part would a modified puller have worked?
Driveshaft grease. First of all, I really enjoy the channel and all the shared information. I like to share my knowledge and hope you accept and appreciate this. Regarding the brown and black grease, there is actually a distinct difference. But first about the driveshaft itself, Toyota allocated the grease correctly, so the black grease in the CV joint and the brown grease in the Tripod joint. This is also visible in the video, the brown grease is in the tripod and black is in the CV joint. Ok, now for the difference. The theory is that the tripod needle bearings need a lithium soap based grease, so grease without solid particles or basically a thick oil. The CV joint is more robust in design and are able to deal with the Mos2 fortification. Without going in too much details and the literature, please assume the black grease is in fact MoS2 fortified grease and needs to go into the CV joint.
Thank you .. I was dumbfounded to hear him say there is no difference and then proceed to load the two exactly backwards .. they are not the same, great explanation between the two. I can say first hand that even after 230k miles you can pull off the boots and tell the difference. I’m literally wrapping up this job on a pair of axles this evening.
I would agree. The black heavy grease will be a higher level of black moly grease, so I would put the heavy grease in the outer joint For the Barfield style joint. The tripod with the small roller bearings under the large rollers i would use the thinner grease so it would actually pentrate and actually lubricate the small needle bearings.
I can also attest that I did this job recently on a toyota sienna 2008 with 240k miles (axles were still the original) and it was clear that the inner joint grease was lighter. Proof that even Master techs like AMD can get it wrong. Though it is a bit concerning. Unless Toyota is just mixing the greases during manufacturing as well 😂
I really enjoyed reading your technical knowledge of the grease... I am able to verify after performing the Car Nut's procedure that the inner grease is the lighter color like you said and the outer is the darker color... the method is solid and I was still able to get the inner lighter color grease in the tripod joint by dividing it up evenly... and being very careful with it. Key to the entire job is taking my time and holding the clamps in place.
THIS is why I truly enjoy subscribing to your channel. Your videos are always informative, straight to the point, and practical for the DIY mechanic. Outstanding!
Hello, first off I wanna say I’m glad you’re sharing your knowledge with folks… makes me happy when people are involved with their own repairs…I’ve been working for Toyota for almost 3 decades ..I just wanted to add a few correction.. if you don’t mind, not sure if you over looked them but.. the grease was not installed in the correct order the clear brownish grease goes in the inner boot and the thicker grease goes in the outer. If you noticed. When you removed both boots the outer grease was thick and the inner grease was dripping.. you forgot to remove air that gets traps when installing boots, this will cause boots to expand and rupture under high rpm . You mentioned vibration when installing after market,, that is correct but you also made a mistake by not marking the position of the inner joint when removing it, that will cause vibration .. last , when you installed the outer boot and the rusted pain chipped it got caught under the boot were the clam goes.. it’s going to leak ….
3 decades! Seems like someone who knows Toyotas like the back of their hand haha! Read your comment and was wondering (going to do this job myself), what do you mean by marking the position of the inner joint? Thanks! - Fellow Toyota lover
I know this is an ancient post to reply to - but basically, you put a paint mark across the two sides of the CV joint to make sure the axle goes back into the same alignment - there are three ways that the tulip can fit into the inner joint. This keeps any factory balance that was done.
I wish I had seen your video before. I spent hours hammering the whole axel out only to find that I couldn't remove one side. Bought aftermarket one that now sounds like it grinds when braking. I'll have to find the pieces to the original one. Great instructor. You are a natural!
I'd put the crimp 180 degrees from each other for optimum balancing lol. Great video. I'll be doing this on my GX470 soon and definitely appreciate the video walkthrough.
It's a pleasure to watch a master mechanic perform and thoroughly explain this replacement. I'm a DIYer and this video, as fascinating as it was to watch, showed me I never want to do this repair myself. You are a great representative for the quality of Toyota mechanics.
Ooof.. Don't strike the C.V joint like that with a steel hammer.. i first try a dead blow lead shot type hammer.. if that doesn't do it.. i then use a brass drift punch on the very center of the cage that is on the shaft and strike the brass drift with a steel hammer or brass hammer... and slightly strike it back and forth on all sides while pulling up on it.. i have also used a short piece of 2x4 to catch the outer part of the joint where he had the rag over it...and then hit the 2x4 with a hammer.... but NEVER use a steel hammer directly on the joint.. no.. not even with a rag over it.. I'm a Toyota and A.S.E Master as well.. with over 35 years in the field... I'm not trying to be an ass.. but i disagree with the way he handled that.. just saying...
@@pseudosmith9945 yes question I have 3 Toyotas I have a 2000 Tacoma and a 1986 Celica gts i take all three of my vehicle to to the dealership talking about my 2000 Tacoma I took it to the dealership to have the cv boot replace as usual but the dealership told me that the they were frozen or sieged something like that ok and needed to replace the entire axel I had no problem with that they attempted to order the Toyota replacement but unavailable soo they went with after market parts not a fan of after market parts but had no choice and basically the same thing with my 1986 Celica just recently same thing exactly any suggestion thank you
@@jameseverly8501 yes.. parts have gotten difficult to get these days.. go ahead and run those shafts since you have to but just keep an eye out for any vibration/shaking that may appear after the replacement with those after market shafts which could cause bearing/seal wear in the hubs and/or transaxle.. have them order the factory units and notify you when they come in if you are having problems with the aftermarket ones or just WANT the factory ones.. generally. If they are bad.. you'll notice right off.. look up factory Toyota parts on the internet and there are sites you can buy factory parts. I have bought some from Marrietta Ga all the way to Texas before.. You can even call a dealership in another state that may have them in stock and have them shipped to you, you could install them yourself or have a reputable shop do so for you.. good luck and hope this helps.. 👍
@@pseudosmith9945 I am with you, that steel hammer no. I will be soon making Lead hammers and selling on Ebay. I have the old cast Iron mould.... I use 1/2" Pipe with a tee... pour the hot lead !! Use heavy dead blow or plastic hammers...
AMD, as usually, this video and you sharing your knowledge, tips and experience are SO INCREDIBLY HELPFUL! I wish you were here so I can have your shop service my Toyota and Lexus. You're awesome!
Couple things worth mentioning, I never would hammer on those tripods that hard, I also like to mark where they were on the shaft. I also think the watery grease belongs in the tripod end, and the thick stuff on the CV joint. I agree that the best quality axles are the ones that came with the vehicle. (except Honda) Years ago I worked with a guy who would never install an A/M axle, only good used from a wreckers. Too many issues with the Chinese ones, the boots don't stay on, wont stay sealed, no balancing weights, vibrations, one year lifespans, etc. Good video, just when I thought I knew everything, I learned a few new things today.
Excellent video. i also had reservations on hammering on needle bearings who knows of it might cause flat spots on them. going on the side of precaution i would go right to the air hammer both ways. overall i like your way of teaching . Well done.
Great video and solid method... 7 things I learned following Car Nut's method (and I drove it a few hundred miles so far with no leaks)... Thank you Car Nut... it really helped! 1. Thinner grease goes in the inner tripod joint (I verified this because when I took our 2007 Camry apart it was the lighter grease color... it is possible to do if you split up the thinner grease between putting in the boot and in the spider bearing housing). 2. If you never done this before make sure you take your time... hold the clamps even the small ones (mine slipped a little so I ended up busting it trying to manipulate it in place... downtime 3 days waiting for another clip/kit from dealer). 3. When Car Nut says 3 17 socket/bolt/nuts in the video he means 2 bolts 1 nut that are 17mm in size. 4. Don't even bother trying to clamp without the tool (my opinion and I own the other clamp tools)... and the Toyota branded one is 5 times more than the generic on that works on Amazon that I got for just over $20. You really want the clamp tool (generic one works fine I got the ZKTool one). 5. It helped to have my kid hold the outer CV Joint while I greased it and wiped it down before clamping. They held the boot on the inner one for me too so I can get grease in it. Spare hands help. 6. Dealerships have websites and in my case buying the parts it's much cheaper ordering from the website. 7. For a 2007 Camry torque specs are 94 ft pounds on lower joint to arm bolts, and 90 ft pound on the ball joint nut. Axel Wheel nut is 217 ft pounds and I used loctite Red on it... used blue on the rest of the bolts and nuts.
Dear Mr. Care Care Nut, Thank you so much for making this videos and educating us Toyota and Lexus owners. As many of your views said before, you are a master mechanic and educator sir. Thank you. My Issue: I just discovered that the inner boot on both right and left front side CV axles on my 2008 urban edition 4runner is cracked and leaking grease. I discovered this when I was charging the gear oils in the front, rear differentials and transfer case. Recent repairs: Prior to this (March 2023) I took it to the Toyota dealership head gasket replacement, all 4 shocks and rear brakes, which came up to around $5700, which drained my car maintenance budget for the year. 2 Options: After viewing your video, you suggested a more cost effective option, of a boot replacement job. So I have decided to take it back to the dealer to have them change the axle seals (left and right) and do a reboot job on the axles. Cost and time: However, Im not sure of the cost of the seal replacement, reboot kit, and labor for this job, as compared to replacing the seal, new axles and labor. Question: Can you give me a ball-pack price and time breakdown for both options?
Very professionally done & equally honestly explained! If you were in front of me physically I might salute you for these qualities! May you live a happy, healthy & long life with your loved ones! May the ALLSH bless you always!
Perfect timing! I had a clamp come off. I actually just used a needle grease gun tip under the axle seal into the joint. Then put a new clamp on, cleaned it up and called it good. Seems fine so far.
This guy is the best. Very professional and informative. He takes his time and explain everything clearly. I hope he continue to do educational videos. We need more people just like him. Job well done. Thank you for everything.
Note, the he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
You remind me of a great mobile mechanic in Riverside County CA. He was a mechanic for Toyota and Lexus. He decided to have his own mobile business. His name is Calvin Prentice he is an awesome mechanic and friend that God brought our families together. We miss him since we moved to Missouri. He is and always was Honest, Reasonable, Clean, Hard Working and very Thorough! Seems so much like you! Thank you for this informative video! Forgot to add that he had severe eye problems which kept him from doing what he loved to do.
I'm not a DIY but I really enjoy watching you videos! Your descriptions as you progress through your video's is amazing. Thank you for your for sharing your wisdom and knowledge.
Thank you for sharing. Not only we need more knowledgeable mechanics like you but I think community colleges need auto mechanic instuctors like you in their programs. God bless you.
Many thanks from a UK 2013 Prius owner! I damaged the inner left-hand side CV boot when I was replacing the lower suspension arm a few weeks ago, and the the UK dealer quoted 723 pounds incl VAT for supplying the whole axle, and 99 pounds for the boot kit (parts only). I fitted an aftermarket boot today after removing the axle, and fortunately my spider was really easy to come off, so the job went quite quickly. Your video told me what to expect before I started, and was a great help.
Thank you very much for the most excellent step-by-step description. I just completed both axles on my 2002 3.4l 4WD Tacoma. I discovered that by twisting the grease bags, virtually all the all the grease is dispensed from the bags and it is easier to control where the grease is going.
I also used a center punch to make match marks on the inner tulip-axle and a pair on the tripod-axle so everything goes back together as it was originally assembled. Hammering on the tripod body is ok but never hammer directly on the rollers.
When ever I separate an inner sliding pot/plunge joint I always make sure that each one of the needle roller bearings goes back into the same slot it came out of. Also re the different grease types. The outer CV joint is designed to have the thick black Molly grease but the inner sliding pot/plunge joint uses the more viscous creamy lighter grease because it can lubricate the needle rollers easier because of it's ability to move around easily.
yes, changed boots on the rear axle on my st185 as a precaution, the information as he said is hard to get, as there is nothing on the topic. The black grease is molybdenum grease which is for the outer axle, and the lighter grease is Polyurea grease, which is a lower NGLI grease that turns more liquidy at higher temperature to supposedly prevent the needle bearings from burning up from the movements. If my memory recalls correctly, I've read something about SAAB changing the grease from Polyurea to simple moly grease for the inner axle for ease of use/cost efficiency or something, however I don't remember if it made them last less. It's a shame some technical topics/questions just end at "Just use the grease in the packaging" "Just buy some CV joint grease" when you can clearly see there is a difference in the grease, it might work, but is it right? I want my axles to last as long as possible since there are not dimes a dozen of them.
This video was very informative, and, as an owner of a 2021 RAV4, reassuring. I hadn't realized that Toyota CV axles are so durable. We intend to keep this car for many years to come and I will perform some maintenance when required. After watching this video, I realized that boot replacement is well within my skill set. Our previous car was a 2009 Corolla, 243000 miles at trade-in with the original axles and boots. That car had few failures, all parts replacements were mileage related. I have been impressed with Toyota quality and durability. Thanks for educating us with your videos.
I had a 1991 VW Jetta TD that had 698, 714 KM on it when it was totaled by a speeding jerk, running a Red light. That converts into 434, 160 Miles. It also had the original axles and boots. In fact, i kept both drive axles from it and ended up using one of them on a 1986 VW Jetta TD that i bought after the '91 was totaled. I bought the '91 New but the '86 had 229,000 KM on it when i bought it---now has over 750,000 KM on it. It's still running but has low oil pressure.
Hello my friend. I love all your Toyota videos. I too am a mechanic and do exactly as you do for these axles. Just a note of caution. Using the air hammer is the good solution but the axle cross and air hammer bit are hardened steel and can chip. I would not want to see you get a piece in your eye. Safety glasses are a good idea. Stay safe and awesome! You are a credit to mechanics everywhere!!
Excellent tutorial. Being a retired millwright for 35 years and working with alll kind of bearing job, I think smacking the tripod or spider with a hammer can cause or maybe not, short term issues on the 3 bearings. I did several c- v axel and wheeI bearing in my life and I used when they are stuck a bearing splitter under the spider with a steel split bushing maintained together by a hose clamp, between tool and tripod to prevent any force on bearing and using a puller. But your air hammer is ok if only the tripod's yoke is involved. The same for getting the spider in. Using a big brass punch also on the center of the spider instead smacking directly on bearings with a rag on, would be appropriate to my opinion. Without any offense to you sir. We just work differently and you are such a good teacher.
A Bocsh Rotary Hammer drill (on hammer mode) and a bull nose chisel worked for me and I was thrilled. I believe because of the frequency of vibration. The spline was rusted solid to the knuckle. Thankfully didn't damage axle.
Thanks for the detailed video AMD. As a 100 series LX owner, I know exactly what you mean by the front wheel bearing job being messy! BTW, every time I had to rebuild my LC axle, I was able to use the 3 pronged jaw puller to remove the bearing carrier out. No hammers, no tapping and well controlled. Also, most parts store will rent you one so it is free as well.
The question left unanswered is how would one arrange a 3-pronged jaw puller to remove the passenger-side CV axle from the bearing carrier? Frankly, it does not seem obvious.
Even though I do not own a Toyota car, I still want to learn from your video...because the principle of this job is very similar. This video also remind me an embassment I had years ago trying to replace the same thing on my Nissan Quest when I was lying on the ground to do it. I was not able to pop this out for lack of leverage due to the cramped space, which forced me to put every thing back on and sent it to an auto shop with my new part. Lesson learned in a hard way but I did not regret it as I had tried at least.
HI there CCN. I hope all is well. I could watch your repair videos all day long. I'm not really a DYI'er but I enjoy seeing how all this stuff works! Thanks for making these videos! SHINE ON!
As an MB tech I totally agree. Our axles are often $1200 and up. Typically it’s worth replacing the boots. Aftermarket axles often make the vehicle vibrate like it has collapsed engine mounts while at idle in gear.
@@macbook802 I’m not sure why but I’ve run into this issue multiple times. If u see new engine mounts and aftermarket axle shafts it’s a good indicator that an independent shop hung a bunch of parts chasing the vibration.
The speed and level of detail you give during your demonstration is perfect. If only my first year instructors had been like you, I would have picked up the 'pro-tips' that you make like never throwing out old parts during re & re just in case you need to reference parts size or location as stated around 7:13
Just rebuilt oem untouched cv axle on my 2014 sienna at 97k miles. I can confirm that the black grease goes in the outer joint, the brown grease goes in the inner joint. The oem greases in each joint were easy to tell apart, quite distinct. The outer joint was HARD to whack off!
I am one of those diyers that always get intimated and afraid that I am biting off more than I can chew. But watching yours videos always inspire me to take up the challenge. The sense of accomplishment I feel when I complete a challenge is SO satisfying. Thank you for being such a great instructor.
What is also frustrating is that there are Toyota shoes that require disassembly and there are aftermarket kits that have an open shoe so you can put it around without disassembly, but they're said to be low-quality.
@@epicclips456if the aftermarket is from China then most likely it's junk. I changed a front axle on a Volvo with aftermarket and in one week it was bad. Went straight to OEM and it lasted till the car was sold.
Excellent video and very thorough detailed explanation on all steps involved in this job. I agree that Toyota parts are far superior to aftermarket. I’d recommend making sure you have an original Toyota axle in the vehicle. Someone had already replaced my LX470 with aftermarket and it was leaking……not sure the boot job is worth it on an aftermarket axle. I ended up getting a new Toyota axle to be safe. Again great work. Appreciate you!
I think clamps crimps is better in 180deg. opposite to each end & in line together with the other to maintain balance. Also you could use brass hammer softer material or a gear puller for the spider bearings thank you. Great job sir..
Excellent video! The only thing I do differently is to cut the boot immediately, slide it down, then air hammer the spider mount out without hitting those rollers, or chisel it out.
I love watching you work and explain in plain terms what you are doing and the pitfalls that may occur. You are a true professional with an honest approach to doing the work. Thank you so much and keep up the great videos. Cheers!
Always great at explaining the process and almost makes me feel like I could do the job. NOT will leave it for the professionals. Keep up the great videos, it at least helps us understand what might be causing problems with our cars.
Just did this job on a ‘13 RX 450h at home. Do yourself a huge favor and *buy the Toyota special tool.* Worth every penny. It makes clamping the boots easy and straightforward. Also, listen to TCCN when he says to leave the support bearing on the RH shaft alone. It’s tricky clamping the inboard boot on the car, but the Toyota tool makes it easier and it’s significantly less work than disturbing the support bearing. Use match marks on the tulip + inboard housing and take pics of the old shaft for reference. I used a 3-jaw puller to remove the tulip, and a brass drift on the base to install it. Brown grease is for the inboard joint, black for outboard. Finally, stay extremely organized since the bands are all different sizes and line them up carefully as he shows or you’re buying a new kit. 4 hours start to finish for both sides on the ground. Saved hundreds, retained genuine Toyota axles, problem solved. Great video as always!
I really loved this video! It shows so many tips and tricks that really help avoiding trouble and catastrophes:) It reminds me of my youth, when I started laying on my knees and fixing mopeds as a 13 year old in the early 80’s. After college I got to work at a professional motorcycle workshop. It was heaven! All the lifts, pro and special tools! It was such a joy to learn to use all of this. Luckily we had a boss who saw the value in good and right tools, so if a new special tool was needed; just order it! All this came back to me as you demonstrated the OK and the perfect way to crimp:) Keep up the good and honest videos! All the best from Tore, Norway 😅
If the CV axle that you took apart was the factory original, it looks like the lighter color grease was in the inner joint. Great video. Keep up the excellent work!
I agree, the lighter grease was on the inner joint for me too. In addition, the inner boot is small compared to the outer boot for a Sienna. I did it this way. Thanks for the clamp size details. I made sure to use the same length camps in my case.
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt Yes, moly + lithium whereas I believe the inner joint is only lithium grease. I believe the outer joint takes a lot more stress and needs the moly extreme pressure grease. My experience backs this up as I have always had the outer joint wear out first (not because of a split boot, but from wear).
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt agree i used to do the old BMC Minis and the black Moly Ep grease was used for the outer CV joints , i remember doing Hondas innthe 80s and they had the same spider pot joints on the inner and it was the clearer grease and black on the outer
Being such a experienced mechanic I am alarmed at the use of a hammer on a bearing to be re-used. It will without any doubt cause flat spots on the rolling elements causing eventual failure.
Just did this job, great tutorial. The only thing I did different is reinstalling the “spider”, I used a 32mm socket to put over the spider and hammered the socket. Went in very nicely, and no risk of damaging the bearings in the spider.
@@BlinkDavis768 I used a 32 oz hammer and a chisel to get it to budge. I was hitting it exactly where he’s using the air hammer at 14:10. Go around the spider on all 3 sides. It will eventually budge.
Ahmad, Great video! Your shop walls and floor are very bright so you need to consider the light balance when you are under the car or making a point about some part of the car. Also, wear blue not black gloves to increase visibility.
Going back many years , my Brother in Law who was an Aircraft Enginner, had to get the wheel off a 707-720, which was seized on. He found a steam cleaner and used that to heat the bearing, the wheel then came off easily.
Every mechanic worth their salt understands the need to improvise and isn't afraid to do it, so long as it doesn't risk the integrity of the parts being worked on. I've jerry-rigged tools that weren't worth buying because I only needed them once, used cut-up soda cans as exhaust clamp shims and am now hoping to build my own ABS wheel sensors after I broke the original ones overhauling the rear suspension, because I don't want to spend $300 each for new OEM ones, assuming that they're even still made.
That larger clamp setting tool, for my GM vehicle anyhow, is actually designed to be used with a breaker bar on one handle and a torque wrench on the other. The CV clamps are set to a specified torque per the service manuals. Though honestly, I love that smaller Toyota one as it could def come in handy in confined spaces!
I watched this even though I don’t own a sienna. Very informative. Could you do a video for 4Runners? Guys break axles etc out in the bush. It would be great being able to fix yourself.
Great video but one thing you missed was cleaning the outside of the tripode cage before you tapped the inner joint in :-). You mentioned that being important, but in my experience, I’ve always used a bit of grease on the boots to get them into the cv shaft. If clamped correctly, they’ll never leak. Also, as far as the grease is concerned, the darker grease is most likely moly cv joint grease which should probably go into the outer joint as that one takes more abuse vs the inner tripode. Keep up the great work and informative videos. edit: I just looked up the inner/outer kits sold by toyota and brown grease is in fact pictured w/ the inner boot kits as I suspected.
This was a fantastic video. I wish I had seen it two years ago. I have a 2004 Sienna. It is just over 200k miles. In the last 2 years I have had 3 CV axles put on it (at my regular mechanic) aftermarket junk. Dang.....I wish I had known. Even though these aftermarket crap have "warranties" it is a pain to get it back in the shop, etc. etc. etc. Also ----- I have actually asked....a regular mechanic.... "If the boot is torn, why can you not just replace to boot????" I have been told you cannot do that. Because from a earth conscience individual, I hate to waste all these parts. They wind up where? In the landfill? Where do they go????? I am a huge advocate of fixing something as opposed to just throwing it away. Anyways...... I cannot thank you enough for making me a better consumer. There is no doubt this costs in labor. But in my opinion, it is such a better option than putting more parts in the landfill. Thank you again and again.
Seriously a master at his craft and a master at teaching. Calm cool head with every obstacle, easygoing going tone while discussing the process, expanding on details lost by others. Truly a man that has master his craft an mastered a life mystery to most of us all, happiness an joy in all life’s tasks. We have all worked with angry unhappy people and I feel I speak for most of us who have you would be a great coworker or boss. Cheers to you my friend the world needs more of your kind.
Thank you so much for this information AMD. I started hearing a click when turning my steering and starting dreading the worst that I'd be paying up to $900 to replace the the cv axles.
As always, incredible video, Amd. I try to maintain my wife’s 15’ Sienna as much as I can. I have never done a re-boot Job on a Toyota but you have made it look very easy and worth trying if I need too. Thank you for passing on your knowledge to us! Greatly appreciated!
I went through this just a few months ago. Ended up just replacing the boot clamps because they had loosened up over time. Dealer wanted me to replace axles. $1600 parts, $1250 labor.
How many miles driven since replacing clamps? Have you convinced yourself that the leaking stopped? More so than old clamps loosening, I wonder if the old rubber boots shink to cause the leaks. Give us a long time report if your fix works for 50K miles.
@@chetmyers7041 the rubber did probably shrink. It's a 2008 with 140k miles. This was only a few months ago, and only a few thousand miles since then. Won't have 50k data for 3 or so years.
@@gulzeb Never take a car out of warranty to the stealership, especially something like a 2008 with 140k miles. Most medium to large sized cities have shops like CarCareNut that specialize in one make and generally aim for repeat business, not bending you over with no lube like stealerships.
@@ruthnoya8424 that is fine as long as like you said it is a specialty shop or a shop that will use OE parts. Some shops are putting super cheap parts on peoples cars nowadays.
Thanks for posting the video. I had to rebuild my wife’s cv axel in her sienna and watched this before and during the process. I would agree with your final assessment of it though, it’s not an easy diy job but it is possible.
His work is always spot on. Here is something I tried, that would probably not get recommended but, so far, 40,000 miles and it has worked. I was working on some suspension parts and then bought new tires, then immediately drove to different shop for an alignment,. They spotted some grease on my rim and sure enough, I had a hole, about 1/8 inch long, on my outer boot. I knew for a fact that it was put there that day, since I had the rim off and decided to clean the rim. So, either I damaged the boot or the tire shop did, it does not matter, it was literally 6 miles of driving and a little bit of grease escaped. So, I got a syringe, (you don't need a needle) and put grease back into the boot, cleaned the boot with rubbing alcohol and used a black silicone to seal the boot. Has it held up? Yes. Would your mechanic recommend this fix? NO. But if you catch the leak quickly, before damage is done and don't have the money or feel like doing the work to replace the boot,, or don't want to try a "split boot" that is available sometimes, I can say this worked so far and I expect the fix is permanent.
Love your videos - being retired now I don't get to play on cars as much as I used too - and the hands don't get as dirty watching videos. I've always been nervous about hitting the spider - I tend to using a three jaw puller. I always mark the axle / shaft and spider so the rollers go in the same leg of the inner - maybe I'm a nervous Nellie. Love the little Toyota tool - never seen one in Australia even in dealerships.
I had one of these rear axles go out in my wh statesman. In tracking down which axle, we concluded it was the right side going out. 3 days after replacing it, the noise returned. Took the car to a diff shop who told me it was on the left side. Got second hand units for both sides. After 2 weeks of no noise I concluded I fixed the noise. Took apart the old axle, grease had shriveled and dried, and there were millions of tiny steel shavings in the inner joint, along with 40 mm of side play.
I cringed when the steel hammer hits the spider rollers lol; there’re needle bearings inside. A brass hammer or a chisel at the spider part next to the splines would be safer.
Im with you guys here... I couldnt believe what I was seeing..those rollers and needles, slightest damage or imperfection from the hammering and you Will feel it as a vibration in the axle as you drive..even putting the tripod back on the spline and Not marking its exact original fit position, you can get vibrations..so wacking the rollers like that is russian roulette
I bought a 12pt axle socket which came with an axle nut staking tool. It worked great for removing the stake (and then punching a new one down) so that the stake didn't ruin the axle thread. Just a tip for those without a cutoff tool.
@@southothehighway search "Toyota / Lexus 30mm Front Axle Lock Nut Remover Kit" i bought it years back for 33 dollars on amazon so you might find it cheaper elsewhere. Be sure to confirm you have a 30mm 12 pt axle nut
Great information for owners. Toyota CV’s and Birfields are some of the best out there, the metallurgy and build are phenomenal. When persuading a spider I’ve had good luck using a brass drift on the center of the spider rather than hammering on the rollers. When having to replace the entire axle shaft, I’ve had very good luck with the Toyota Remanufactured axles. They will save you some money and come with the same fantastic parts and warranty. The same applies to remanufactured alternators, calipers, and steering racks.
The spider is the carrier for the three roller bearings that allow the axle to pivot on the transmission side of the axle. It is held onto the axle by the circlip he removed when initially putting the axle in the vise. Think of it like a universal joint on a traditional driveshaft.
The inner joint (next to engine) has to absorb IN-and-OUT movement because as the suspension moves up and down (when hitting a bump) the axle shaft has to change length slightly. See my comment above for link to a great video on How Does CV Axle work.
@@jeffreymcdonald8267 But wait - there's more! CV (Constant Velocity) joints are used on steered axles because they, well, maintain constant rotational velocity throughout the rotation when the wheels are steered. U-joints "whip" through the rotation when the axle is not in line. For old school drive shafts that was pretty minor but when the angle gets above 20 degrees or so it creates a lot of vibration. The inner ones don't have much of that to deal with - mostly small vertical angles - but the outer ones make contact within a spherical shell midway in the angle between the axle and the wheel.
LITERALLY just experienced this issue yesterday! My brother's 08 Prius had a ripped boot and grease was flying everywhere, I installed a new Napa axle and now its clicking and making noise. Thankfully it was a very easy one to replace and I saved the original one. Gonna replace the boots and re-install the OEM axle and call it a day 🙃
Very informative video. I would like to add to it. During my last experience removing this rt. front axle I found there is a dowel located between axle bearing mount and engine block. By removing the bearing bolts and prying the bearing away from the block to clear the dowel from the block whole axle can be removed. There are complete axle replacements available.
Thanks for putting out this video and sharing your knowledge via your excellent teaching skills. I can tell that you’re a veteran mechanic-a real pro! Thanks
WHEN TAKING THE SPIDER OUT OF THE SPLINE, USE A SMALL WOOD BLOCK IN BETWEEN THE IT & THE HAMMER, OR USE THE RUBBER MALLET, OR YOU DAMAGE THE 3 BALL BEARING.
+1 for too much hammer on the spider. "Notice I'm not whaling on it".....immediately starts pounding on it before using air hammer. Then pounds some more directly on the lobes when replacing it🙃!
Thank you a million for such an excellent video! It was a little late for me, the same thing happened to my Camry and I threw away my original axles just because I saw the broken boots. and I put in some replacements that only lasted 1 year. At the end of having the same thing happen for 3 consecutive years, buy the originals. and with your video, I learned that in the future only use the repair kit and leave the original one that I just bought. But it wasn't $400.. it was $685 that they charged for the driver side shaft. But, thank you again because you are a true mechanic. God bless you for being a blessing to many.
I'm sooooo not going to do this job myself, even though I've replaced a few axles in Dodge minivans. But I do appreciate the concept of just replacing the boots and grease instead of the entire axle assembly. Nevertheless, this video is excellent, and AMD is a remarkable instructor, as said by other commenters.
As a retired educator of 38 years, I am impressed with how descriptive your vocabulary is when it comes to describing the mechanical process involved in your videos. You are a master mechanic who just happens to be a master at educating us in how to fix, replace and repair very complicated car problems. Addressing these difficult issues with the right attitude, demeanor and determination makes us all feel we can be successful DIY selfers! Thanks for being such a great example to all of us!
You said what all true viewers are thinking, plus I must add in the OCD and working on LEXUS, perfect combination
You said it right. This man absolutely deserves the title "Master Mechanic". He's setting a great example for anyone working in that trade, and doing us DIYers one hell of a favor by sharing his knowledge.
And no swear words either!!
I agree except hammering the thriple bearing in the inner cv joint.
Impact hammering the inside part will not affect it but hammering the bearing is no no action.
💯
As a entry level technician who has a particular interest in Toyotas, each time I watch one of his videos, it feels like I’m going to tech school online covering a curriculum one video at a time. Amazing stuff always.
Exactly. Me too. I'm a car guy, and qualified (ex) diesel technician, but love watching his channel a lot!
Wish I could work there ☺
I’m with you guys, I own my own 2 bay 2 man auto repair shop, and whenever we have a Toyota comming in for a complicated repair, I have my tech. Watch his vid. Even if it’s a quick breeze through refresher type thing. This guy is top notch , I wish he worked for me!
Mate honestly you will learn soooo much more from a guy like this than those useless workshop trainer vids. But good to learn the oem way first, then stop think about it ll the stuff you learnt and see what you can improve for you.
Your videos are so interesting. I don’t work on cars, but seeing something done well is satisfying. Look forward to every video. 👌🏻
Note, he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
THIS is the mechanic I would want working on my vehicle.
He knows, down to the tiniest detail, exactly what needs to be done, and how to do it. He doesn't rush, and he doesn't take shortcuts. He uses the right tools and is careful and meticulous every step of the way.
There are few mechanics that have this level expertise, skill and care.
Lots of them exist the problem is getting them to spend as much time and take as much care on the 5th or 9th car of the day as they did the first. Or getting them to care about any of them as much as their own
@@rockydubois1052 has to do with pay.......as the dealer is concerned with hours produced.-and the tech makes a fraction.....
Not all dealers Have all the tools. I never saw one of those crimp tools. I dont miss working on cars at a dealers--PAY SUCKED.
@@harryharry3193 I agree. We have a money obsessed culture and it takes people's focus away from doing quality work. This applies to almost everything, not just mechanic work. It bugs the hell out of me.
I hope you enjoy having the wrong grease in your cv axles LOL
Part of the blame goes to the customers who are price obsessed. Doing work this way with ONLY factory parts costs almost double. Most(sadly) will not pay the price for this quality of work. The other part of the blame goes to mechanics short of ethical behavior and shortcutting their work to pad their profits. What came first...chicken or egg.
I was a master technician for over 30 years and have done many many axles, CV joints and boots and yet when I watch this man, I always learn something new and valuable. Another great video, thank you.
Note, he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
@@apivovarov2Just as a diy mech: when your axle is noisy because of the lack of grease - can you still make it silent to change the grease by thicker one or replace the joint cause there is too much play ?
@@apivovarov2 So are you simultaneously admitting his method works while also saying it is technically wrong? Is the difference in viscosity due to the extra dynamics involved in the outer join contorting as well as spinning to accommodate steering?
Couple things: Yellow “ochre” grease is for inboard, black grease is for outboard. Also, you should tap the center of the tulip with a brass drift, not hammer on the roller.
True about the grease.... Yes!! I winced and grumbled about hammering on the roller, but then they withstand much greater force in service and for a much greater period. I am doing precisely this work on my 30 year old Lexus LS400, boots have lasted 30 years!!! Cheers from Australia.
As a former gradeschool coach and sub teacher for over a decade, i really appreciate your calm and descriptive teaching style. Lots of uus really learn alot from your videos. thanks for sharing. :)
What a blessing to have someone so talented teach the correct way to repair.
I like that
I completely agree, I'm 47 and really try to replicate his teaching style. Very detailed yet interesting and calm. Great job.
👍🏼.
toyota is trash cars....
As a Certified Toyota Tech, you did a great job explaining the reasons you are performing the repairs in a certain way.
As a certified Toyota Tech, can you tell us which grease goes where 😂
@@jessemoral394 sadly he doesn’t know
@@jessemoral394 my guess is the thicker grease goes on the spider as it has to slip back in to the part on the car. The other side, the boot gets sealed so it won't leak out.
@@jessemoral394 If you order (I did) the Toyota kits (mine is for 4th gen. 4Runner), each individual boot is packed with a packet of grease as well as clamps/snap rings. My inner kit has the lighter colored grease. (FYI..my inner boots were torn....outer boots looked fine (they were Toyota boots)....but decided to replace them as I figured the "labor" is the most difficult and time consuming part of the job....hope this helps..
Outer spiders are more movable than inner spider, therefore, thinner grease is applied the outer one.
This guy is such a great teacher. Explains everything slowly and in detail.
Note, he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
Other auto mechanics I like, Chris, aka Chris Fix and Scotty Kilmer, but Scotty Kilmer is not fixing anymore.
This guy is the best, and willing to freely show and reveal his knowledge to benefit all of us. And that is priceless , God bless you brother.
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this mechanic, Consumers would definitely be more willing to bring their cars into shops if all mechanics were like this
That's an excellent point!
Absolutely. 100%
Note, he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
I've "aged" out of most DIY car projects. I happened onto your videos and kept watching them because you have the skills of a surgeon, albeit on Toyotas. I find your work to be so skillful you make it look effortless even though I know it is not.
May the Lord bless you and keep you as well!
LOL! I totally agree...I've also "aged out" for many of these projects. Especially something like this, rolling around on the ground as DIY'er and horsing around messy, heavy components. :)
Amen! The last intense job I did on our cars was replacement of a clutch in my son's Acura Integra. I actually pulled a muscle in my face trying to get the clutch to line up. It made rebuilding the hybrid battery on the 2002 Prius seem easy by comparison. I have to rely on others for the brute force work now that I am in my 70s.
Hope he can come home to Iraq one day
@AQ-ep3rt So true...I'm 61 and I'm just about done with fixing cars.
Hello, I work in a company that produces axles for most car makers, brown grease is always used for spiders (tripod) and black, gray grease for joint with balls. Different manufacturers use different grease, but the color relationship is always the same.
Totally agree.
yea I just did this job on a toyota sienna with 240k miles and even with the original axles, it was clear that the spider's original grease was lighter and the outer joint had the darker grease. I kept that the same.
on my OEM remanufactured Camry axle that i was replacing the boots on, both the inner and outer boots had the same dark/grey grease when i took them off
Very good video 📹 👍
One of the best mechanics I've ever seen. Myself included I've been working on cars for over 40 years and I'm truly impressed. Thank you so much for your videos.
he was banging the hell out of the axle spider. that thing is junk.
5:40 “we are trying to fix a problem here and not create a new one.”
Signs of an ethical and customer-minded professional mechanic.
👏👍
I have watched hundreds, if not thousands of hours of educational video on cars and information technology, and this sir is one of the best I've seen. People like you, sir, who share their knowledge from years of experience make the world a better place. Thank you!
Toyota axle boots replaced was excellent. Im 74 and was a licensed Honda tech. All products literally. Also retired corporate.
Great job and superp repair. I'm not doing that much anymore but still service my products.
Love the fact you stress OEM replacement products and the Toyota boot clamp special tool. Decided to view this while eating but watched it till you were done. You like what your doing that's for sure. Kudos!
I'm still a fan of Toyota and their Corolla. 50 million made and under other names as well, not seen in North America.
I do most of my own car repairs. I don't even have a Toyota at this time but I still enjoy watching your videos. Thats how much I respect your work. Great job my friend!
What is your brand of Choice. I have been getting nothing but new Honda's starting back in 1987.
I found the Toyota to be a bit bland and soft. Later on in life I purchased my first new Toyota Camry. At that point I liked it more than the Honda. It was a smoother quieter ride mellowed out overtime.
Where can I just a clamp not working right now I have a 2014 Toyota Camry
I love how positive and calm you are even with how obviously difficult this whole entire thing is. You give us hope 😀 Kudos to the camera man as well. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
OMG this guy is freaking awesome, easy to understand, concise with details....wish I could have him as my mechanic!
Note, he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
The best teacher. Articulate, crispy clear instruction, no stone unturned. Kept it simple. Nice clean organized shop. Tools on the left, bench in the middle, trash on the right. Everythings in place. Learned a lot. Thank you
Sr. You are an outstanding person. I’m a DIY type but seek the help of a knowledgeable person when I need it.
I Do Not trust stealerships. Toyota of Colorado Springs,CO once gave me an estimate to replace The Rack an Pinion, battery, and quite a few more pieces on my Tundra. It was about $6-7k. I declined! Years later, I bought the rack and took it to a shop to have installed, the shop asked me why I replaced it if there was nothing wrong with it. I replace the battery 5 years later, it never failed when Toyota wanted to replace it.
I appreciate your knowledge and honesty when explaining the process of the repairs you do.
Thank you,
Herbert
I am continually impressed by your depth of knowledge, calm, well-paced delivery, and the camera work.
I've done this job many times with my volkswagens. Disassembled the bearings, thoroughly cleaned them, then struggled to reassemble the outer cage and six balls to the inner portion. Your way is much easier. Never let a little pitting of the balls prevent me from reusing the bearings.
Excellent video! I don’t even own a Toyota right now. But your calm demeanor and how you explain each step, I still feel like I’m learning something important, and is why I watched the entire 40 minute video! Keep up the great work!
Well Stated!!!
Thank you, your a blessing to all of us diy people that need to save money. You are very thorough and precise, even down to the different greases. Thank you a million. My brother in-law has stage 4 cancer and I need to do this today so they can drive to Chicago tomarrow. It may be my wife's last time to be with him, he's going fast it seems. You've help a lot of people over this chanel. Bless you and your business. God be yith you. If you ever need anything from Prescott Valley AZ were here for you. Thanks Troy.
With all due respect, I would wail on the inner joint yoke from the forged area around the center spline hole instead of the precision bearings. Maybe a socket of the proper size would work for this. Love the videos and great advice.
I was thinking the same thing. He is sooo smart I can't believe he did that and the fact that more people don't say something. He just put 50,000 extra miles on it... everyone has flaws just like me :)
I use brass hammer for things like that. It won't damage the steel parts.
The rag doesn't provide sufficient cushion or isolation.
The force still be transmitted through the bearings. This could put flats on the bearings. Brass hammers are great for many tasks though. @@andrewjones2167
@@andrewjones2167 Yeah, i was a bit surprised at that as well, just using the rag. I realize they are hardened but it made me wonder if there was any visible damage.
I agree , impressed with his past videos . Very surprised when installing the spider. Also when removing that same part would a modified puller have worked?
Driveshaft grease. First of all, I really enjoy the channel and all the shared information. I like to share my knowledge and hope you accept and appreciate this. Regarding the brown and black grease, there is actually a distinct difference. But first about the driveshaft itself, Toyota allocated the grease correctly, so the black grease in the CV joint and the brown grease in the Tripod joint. This is also visible in the video, the brown grease is in the tripod and black is in the CV joint. Ok, now for the difference. The theory is that the tripod needle bearings need a lithium soap based grease, so grease without solid particles or basically a thick oil. The CV joint is more robust in design and are able to deal with the Mos2 fortification. Without going in too much details and the literature, please assume the black grease is in fact MoS2 fortified grease and needs to go into the CV joint.
Thank you .. I was dumbfounded to hear him say there is no difference and then proceed to load the two exactly backwards .. they are not the same, great explanation between the two.
I can say first hand that even after 230k miles you can pull off the boots and tell the difference. I’m literally wrapping up this job on a pair of axles this evening.
I would agree. The black heavy grease will be a higher level of black moly grease, so I would put the heavy grease in the outer joint For the Barfield style joint. The tripod with the small roller bearings under the large rollers i would use the thinner grease so it would actually pentrate and actually lubricate the small needle bearings.
This is the type of knowledge I seek when making decisions. Thank you guys for your input! I knew the different composition had a purpose.
I can also attest that I did this job recently on a toyota sienna 2008 with 240k miles (axles were still the original) and it was clear that the inner joint grease was lighter. Proof that even Master techs like AMD can get it wrong. Though it is a bit concerning. Unless Toyota is just mixing the greases during manufacturing as well 😂
I really enjoyed reading your technical knowledge of the grease... I am able to verify after performing the Car Nut's procedure that the inner grease is the lighter color like you said and the outer is the darker color... the method is solid and I was still able to get the inner lighter color grease in the tripod joint by dividing it up evenly... and being very careful with it. Key to the entire job is taking my time and holding the clamps in place.
THIS is why I truly enjoy subscribing to your channel. Your videos are always informative, straight to the point, and practical for the DIY mechanic. Outstanding!
Here Here
Hello, first off I wanna say I’m glad you’re sharing your knowledge with folks… makes me happy when people are involved with their own repairs…I’ve been working for Toyota for almost 3 decades ..I just wanted to add a few correction.. if you don’t mind, not sure if you over looked them but.. the grease was not installed in the correct order the clear brownish grease goes in the inner boot and the thicker grease goes in the outer. If you noticed. When you removed both boots the outer grease was thick and the inner grease was dripping..
you forgot to remove air that gets traps when installing boots, this will cause boots to expand and rupture under high rpm .
You mentioned vibration when installing after market,, that is correct but you also made a mistake by not marking the position of the inner joint when removing it, that will cause vibration .. last , when you installed the outer boot and the rusted pain chipped it got caught under the boot were the clam goes.. it’s going to leak ….
3 decades! Seems like someone who knows Toyotas like the back of their hand haha! Read your comment and was wondering (going to do this job myself), what do you mean by marking the position of the inner joint? Thanks!
- Fellow Toyota lover
What is the procedure to remove air from the boots?
I know this is an ancient post to reply to - but basically, you put a paint mark across the two sides of the CV joint to make sure the axle goes back into the same alignment - there are three ways that the tulip can fit into the inner joint.
This keeps any factory balance that was done.
Oh.... That would be a pain to put on the thinner grease in the inner boot if we are not taking out the whole axle assembly.
I wish I had seen your video before. I spent hours hammering the whole axel out only to find that I couldn't remove one side. Bought aftermarket one that now sounds like it grinds when braking. I'll have to find the pieces to the original one. Great instructor. You are a natural!
I'd put the crimp 180 degrees from each other for optimum balancing lol. Great video. I'll be doing this on my GX470 soon and definitely appreciate the video walkthrough.
It's a pleasure to watch a master mechanic perform and thoroughly explain this replacement. I'm a DIYer and this video, as fascinating as it was to watch, showed me I never want to do this repair myself. You are a great representative for the quality of Toyota mechanics.
Ooof.. Don't strike the C.V joint like that with a steel hammer.. i first try a dead blow lead shot type hammer.. if that doesn't do it.. i then use a brass drift punch on the very center of the cage that is on the shaft and strike the brass drift with a steel hammer or brass hammer... and slightly strike it back and forth on all sides while pulling up on it.. i have also used a short piece of 2x4 to catch the outer part of the joint where he had the rag over it...and then hit the 2x4 with a hammer.... but NEVER use a steel hammer directly on the joint.. no.. not even with a rag over it.. I'm a Toyota and A.S.E Master as well.. with over 35 years in the field... I'm not trying to be an ass.. but i disagree with the way he handled that.. just saying...
@@pseudosmith9945 yes question I have 3 Toyotas I have a 2000 Tacoma and a 1986 Celica gts i take all three of my vehicle to to the dealership talking about my 2000 Tacoma I took it to the dealership to have the cv boot replace as usual but the dealership told me that the they were frozen or sieged something like that ok and needed to replace the entire axel I had no problem with that they attempted to order the Toyota replacement but unavailable soo they went with after market parts not a fan of after market parts but had no choice and basically the same thing with my 1986 Celica just recently same thing exactly any suggestion thank you
@@jameseverly8501 yes.. parts have gotten difficult to get these days.. go ahead and run those shafts since you have to but just keep an eye out for any vibration/shaking that may appear after the replacement with those after market shafts which could cause bearing/seal wear in the hubs and/or transaxle.. have them order the factory units and notify you when they come in if you are having problems with the aftermarket ones or just WANT the factory ones.. generally. If they are bad.. you'll notice right off.. look up factory Toyota parts on the internet and there are sites you can buy factory parts. I have bought some from Marrietta Ga all the way to Texas before.. You can even call a dealership in another state that may have them in stock and have them shipped to you, you could install them yourself or have a reputable shop do so for you.. good luck and hope this helps.. 👍
Yeah, I thought I wanted to until I watched how complicated it is. It made me appreciate quality mechanics that much more.
@@pseudosmith9945 I am with you, that steel hammer no. I will be soon making Lead hammers and selling on Ebay. I have the old cast Iron mould.... I use 1/2" Pipe with a tee... pour the hot lead !! Use heavy dead blow or plastic hammers...
AMD, as usually, this video and you sharing your knowledge, tips and experience are SO INCREDIBLY HELPFUL! I wish you were here so I can have your shop service my Toyota and Lexus. You're awesome!
Couple things worth mentioning, I never would hammer on those tripods that hard, I also like to mark where they were on the shaft. I also think the watery grease belongs in the tripod end, and the thick stuff on the CV joint.
I agree that the best quality axles are the ones that came with the vehicle. (except Honda) Years ago I worked with a guy who would never install an A/M axle, only good used from a wreckers. Too many issues with the Chinese ones, the boots don't stay on, wont stay sealed, no balancing weights, vibrations, one year lifespans, etc. Good video, just when I thought I knew everything, I learned a few new things today.
Excellent video. i also had reservations on hammering on needle bearings who knows of it might cause flat spots on them. going on the side of precaution i would go right to the air hammer both ways. overall i like your way of teaching . Well done.
Great video and solid method... 7 things I learned following Car Nut's method (and I drove it a few hundred miles so far with no leaks)... Thank you Car Nut... it really helped! 1. Thinner grease goes in the inner tripod joint (I verified this because when I took our 2007 Camry apart it was the lighter grease color... it is possible to do if you split up the thinner grease between putting in the boot and in the spider bearing housing). 2. If you never done this before make sure you take your time... hold the clamps even the small ones (mine slipped a little so I ended up busting it trying to manipulate it in place... downtime 3 days waiting for another clip/kit from dealer). 3. When Car Nut says 3 17 socket/bolt/nuts in the video he means 2 bolts 1 nut that are 17mm in size. 4. Don't even bother trying to clamp without the tool (my opinion and I own the other clamp tools)... and the Toyota branded one is 5 times more than the generic on that works on Amazon that I got for just over $20. You really want the clamp tool (generic one works fine I got the ZKTool one). 5. It helped to have my kid hold the outer CV Joint while I greased it and wiped it down before clamping. They held the boot on the inner one for me too so I can get grease in it. Spare hands help. 6. Dealerships have websites and in my case buying the parts it's much cheaper ordering from the website. 7. For a 2007 Camry torque specs are 94 ft pounds on lower joint to arm bolts, and 90 ft pound on the ball joint nut. Axel Wheel nut is 217 ft pounds and I used loctite Red on it... used blue on the rest of the bolts and nuts.
Dear Mr. Care Care Nut,
Thank you so much for making this videos and educating us Toyota and Lexus owners. As many of your views said before, you are a master mechanic and educator sir. Thank you.
My Issue: I just discovered that the inner boot on both right and left front side CV axles on my 2008 urban edition 4runner is cracked and leaking grease. I discovered this when I was charging the gear oils in the front, rear differentials and transfer case.
Recent repairs: Prior to this (March 2023) I took it to the Toyota dealership head gasket replacement, all 4 shocks and rear brakes, which came up to around $5700, which drained my car maintenance budget for the year.
2 Options: After viewing your video, you suggested a more cost effective option, of a boot replacement job. So I have decided to take it back to the dealer to have them change the axle seals (left and right) and do a reboot job on the axles.
Cost and time: However, Im not sure of the cost of the seal replacement, reboot kit, and labor for this job, as compared to replacing the seal, new axles and labor.
Question: Can you give me a ball-pack price and time breakdown for both options?
I don't drive a Toyota but I enjoy watching your vids, the professionalism and attention to detail is captivating.
Very professionally done & equally honestly explained! If you were in front of me physically I might salute you for these qualities! May you live a happy, healthy & long life with your loved ones! May the ALLSH bless you always!
Perfect timing! I had a clamp come off. I actually just used a needle grease gun tip under the axle seal into the joint. Then put a new clamp on, cleaned it up and called it good. Seems fine so far.
This guy is the best. Very professional and informative. He takes his time and explain everything clearly. I hope he continue to do educational videos. We need more people just like him. Job well done. Thank you for everything.
Note, the he used grease types incorrectly. Mnemonic is - "Thinner is inner". So, yellow for inner, black for outer. He used the black grease for the inner joint because its thicker consistency is better suited to the method he uses to install the inner boot on the car.
You remind me of a great mobile mechanic in Riverside County CA. He was a mechanic for Toyota and Lexus. He decided to have his own mobile business. His name is Calvin Prentice he is an awesome mechanic and friend that God brought our families together. We miss him since we moved to Missouri. He is and always was Honest, Reasonable, Clean, Hard Working and very Thorough! Seems so much like you! Thank you for this informative video! Forgot to add that he had severe eye problems which kept him from doing what he loved to do.
I'm not a DIY but I really enjoy watching you videos! Your descriptions as you progress through your video's is amazing. Thank you for your for sharing your wisdom and knowledge.
I do alot of diy. I enjoy the learning experience and saving a load of money. Your presentation is very educating and entertaining. Great job!
Exceptionally great videos all the time!!!!
Thank you for sharing. Not only we need more knowledgeable mechanics like you but I think community colleges need auto mechanic instuctors like you in their programs. God bless you.
Many thanks from a UK 2013 Prius owner! I damaged the inner left-hand side CV boot when I was replacing the lower suspension arm a few weeks ago, and the the UK dealer quoted 723 pounds incl VAT for supplying the whole axle, and 99 pounds for the boot kit (parts only). I fitted an aftermarket boot today after removing the axle, and fortunately my spider was really easy to come off, so the job went quite quickly. Your video told me what to expect before I started, and was a great help.
Thank you very much for the most excellent step-by-step description. I just completed both axles on my 2002 3.4l 4WD Tacoma. I discovered that by twisting the grease bags, virtually all the all the grease is dispensed from the bags and it is easier to control where the grease is going.
I also used a center punch to make match marks on the inner tulip-axle and a pair on the tripod-axle so everything goes back together as it was originally assembled. Hammering on the tripod body is ok but never hammer directly on the rollers.
When ever I separate an inner sliding pot/plunge joint I always make sure that each one of the needle roller bearings goes back into the same slot it came out of.
Also re the different grease types. The outer CV joint is designed to have the thick black Molly grease but the inner sliding pot/plunge joint uses the more viscous creamy lighter grease because it can lubricate the needle rollers easier because of it's ability to move around easily.
yes, changed boots on the rear axle on my st185 as a precaution, the information as he said is hard to get, as there is nothing on the topic. The black grease is molybdenum grease which is for the outer axle, and the lighter grease is Polyurea grease, which is a lower NGLI grease that turns more liquidy at higher temperature to supposedly prevent the needle bearings from burning up from the movements. If my memory recalls correctly, I've read something about SAAB changing the grease from Polyurea to simple moly grease for the inner axle for ease of use/cost efficiency or something, however I don't remember if it made them last less. It's a shame some technical topics/questions just end at "Just use the grease in the packaging" "Just buy some CV joint grease" when you can clearly see there is a difference in the grease, it might work, but is it right? I want my axles to last as long as possible since there are not dimes a dozen of them.
This is my understanding as well. Even in this video, you can actually see that the grease from the old CV joint is thicker.
This video was very informative, and, as an owner of a 2021 RAV4, reassuring. I hadn't realized that Toyota CV axles are so durable. We intend to keep this car for many years to come and I will perform some maintenance when required. After watching this video, I realized that boot replacement is well within my skill set. Our previous car was a 2009 Corolla, 243000 miles at trade-in with the original axles and boots. That car had few failures, all parts replacements were mileage related. I have been impressed with Toyota quality and durability. Thanks for educating us with your videos.
I had a 1991 VW Jetta TD that had 698, 714 KM on it when it was totaled by a speeding jerk, running a Red light. That converts into 434, 160 Miles. It also had the original axles and boots. In fact, i kept both drive axles from it and ended up using one of them on a 1986 VW Jetta TD that i bought after the '91 was totaled. I bought the '91 New but the '86 had 229,000 KM on it when i bought it---now has over 750,000 KM on it. It's still running but has low oil pressure.
Hello my friend. I love all your Toyota videos. I too am a mechanic and do exactly as you do for these axles. Just a note of caution. Using the air hammer is the good solution but the axle cross and air hammer bit are hardened steel and can chip. I would not want to see you get a piece in your eye. Safety glasses are a good idea. Stay safe and awesome! You are a credit to mechanics everywhere!!
Why doesn't he just use the air hammer (with safety glasses on) instead of banging away on the bearings?
Excellent tutorial. Being a retired millwright for 35 years and working with alll kind of bearing job, I think smacking the tripod or spider with a hammer can cause or maybe not, short term issues on the 3 bearings. I did several c- v axel and wheeI bearing in my life and I used when they are stuck a bearing splitter under the spider with a steel split bushing maintained together by a hose clamp, between tool and tripod to prevent any force on bearing and using a puller. But your air hammer is ok if only the tripod's yoke is involved. The same for getting the spider in. Using a big brass punch also on the center of the spider instead smacking directly on bearings with a rag on, would be appropriate to my opinion. Without any offense to you sir. We just work differently and you are such a good teacher.
A Bocsh Rotary Hammer drill (on hammer mode) and a bull nose chisel worked for me and I was thrilled. I believe because of the frequency of vibration. The spline was rusted solid to the knuckle. Thankfully didn't damage axle.
Thanks for the detailed video AMD. As a 100 series LX owner, I know exactly what you mean by the front wheel bearing job being messy! BTW, every time I had to rebuild my LC axle, I was able to use the 3 pronged jaw puller to remove the bearing carrier out. No hammers, no tapping and well controlled. Also, most parts store will rent you one so it is free as well.
The question left unanswered is how would one arrange a 3-pronged jaw puller to remove the passenger-side CV axle from the bearing carrier? Frankly, it does not seem obvious.
Even though I do not own a Toyota car, I still want to learn from your video...because the principle of this job is very similar. This video also remind me an embassment I had years ago trying to replace the same thing on my Nissan Quest when I was lying on the ground to do it. I was not able to pop this out for lack of leverage due to the cramped space, which forced me to put every thing back on and sent it to an auto shop with my new part. Lesson learned in a hard way but I did not regret it as I had tried at least.
You also had the sense to know when to cut your losses... a critical bit of sense I don't often have!
Superbly shot, edited and explained ... you've gone done it again AMD - the pride you take in your work shows ...
Love my 34 years of owning Toyotas, and I am in love with Ahmed’s honesty, expertise and dedication to us❣️
HI there CCN. I hope all is well. I could watch your repair videos all day long. I'm not really a DYI'er but I enjoy seeing how all this stuff works! Thanks for making these videos! SHINE ON!
As an MB tech I totally agree. Our axles are often $1200 and up. Typically it’s worth replacing the boots.
Aftermarket axles often make the vehicle vibrate like it has collapsed engine mounts while at idle in gear.
How would an axle make a vehicle vibrate at idle?
@@macbook802 I’m not sure why but I’ve run into this issue multiple times. If u see new engine mounts and aftermarket axle shafts it’s a good indicator that an independent shop hung a bunch of parts chasing the vibration.
Even classroom backbenchers like me get your lessons. That's how good you are as a teacher.
Lol
The speed and level of detail you give during your demonstration is perfect. If only my first year instructors had been like you, I would have picked up the 'pro-tips' that you make like never throwing out old parts during re & re just in case you need to reference parts size or location as stated around 7:13
Just rebuilt oem untouched cv axle on my 2014 sienna at 97k miles. I can confirm that the black grease goes in the outer joint, the brown grease goes in the inner joint. The oem greases in each joint were easy to tell apart, quite distinct.
The outer joint was HARD to whack off!
I am one of those diyers that always get intimated and afraid that I am biting off more than I can chew. But watching yours videos always inspire me to take up the challenge. The sense of accomplishment I feel when I complete a challenge is SO satisfying. Thank you for being such a great instructor.
Plain and Simple: You are a damn good Toyota technician !!!!!!
For sure! we just need more AMD’s all over the country to work on our cars!
Great information, this is a saver. Makes perfect sense not to replace unless damaged. After market is definitely junk. Great job! 👍🏻
What is also frustrating is that there are Toyota shoes that require disassembly and there are aftermarket kits that have an open shoe so you can put it around without disassembly, but they're said to be low-quality.
Aftermarket is not junk lol we’ve used hundreds of aftermarket axles and never had a problem
@@epicclips456if the aftermarket is from China then most likely it's junk. I changed a front axle on a Volvo with aftermarket and in one week it was bad. Went straight to OEM and it lasted till the car was sold.
Excellent video and very thorough detailed explanation on all steps involved in this job. I agree that Toyota parts are far superior to aftermarket. I’d recommend making sure you have an original Toyota axle in the vehicle. Someone had already replaced my LX470 with aftermarket and it was leaking……not sure the boot job is worth it on an aftermarket axle. I ended up getting a new Toyota axle to be safe. Again great work. Appreciate you!
I think clamps crimps is better in 180deg. opposite to each end & in line together with the other to maintain balance. Also you could use brass hammer softer material or a gear puller for the spider bearings thank you. Great job sir..
@toyotausa should be sponsoring this channel - You are far better at explaining this than I have ever seen from any dealership or factory manual.
Excellent video! The only thing I do differently is to cut the boot immediately, slide it down, then air hammer the spider mount out without hitting those rollers, or chisel it out.
I love watching you work and explain in plain terms what you are doing and the pitfalls that may occur. You are a true professional with an honest approach to doing the work. Thank you so much and keep up the great videos. Cheers!
Always great at explaining the process and almost makes me feel like I could do the job. NOT will leave it for the professionals. Keep up the great videos, it at least helps us understand what might be causing problems with our cars.
Just did this job on a ‘13 RX 450h at home. Do yourself a huge favor and *buy the Toyota special tool.* Worth every penny. It makes clamping the boots easy and straightforward. Also, listen to TCCN when he says to leave the support bearing on the RH shaft alone. It’s tricky clamping the inboard boot on the car, but the Toyota tool makes it easier and it’s significantly less work than disturbing the support bearing. Use match marks on the tulip + inboard housing and take pics of the old shaft for reference. I used a 3-jaw puller to remove the tulip, and a brass drift on the base to install it. Brown grease is for the inboard joint, black for outboard. Finally, stay extremely organized since the bands are all different sizes and line them up carefully as he shows or you’re buying a new kit. 4 hours start to finish for both sides on the ground. Saved hundreds, retained genuine Toyota axles, problem solved. Great video as always!
It is the most complete and clear video. A 1000 dollar mechanic session here. Thanks.
That is the clean shop I've ever saw
I really loved this video! It shows so many tips and tricks that really help avoiding trouble and catastrophes:) It reminds me of my youth, when I started laying on my knees and fixing mopeds as a 13 year old in the early 80’s. After college I got to work at a professional motorcycle workshop. It was heaven! All the lifts, pro and special tools! It was such a joy to learn to use all of this. Luckily we had a boss who saw the value in good and right tools, so if a new special tool was needed; just order it! All this came back to me as you demonstrated the OK and the perfect way to crimp:) Keep up the good and honest videos! All the best from Tore, Norway 😅
If the CV axle that you took apart was the factory original, it looks like the lighter color grease was in the inner joint. Great video. Keep up the excellent work!
i think the dark grease is moly e. p. and pretty sure it goes on the outer joint L1 master car and truck
I agree, the lighter grease was on the inner joint for me too. In addition, the inner boot is small compared to the outer boot for a Sienna. I did it this way. Thanks for the clamp size details. I made sure to use the same length camps in my case.
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt Yes, moly + lithium whereas I believe the inner joint is only lithium grease. I believe the outer joint takes a lot more stress and needs the moly extreme pressure grease. My experience backs this up as I have always had the outer joint wear out first (not because of a split boot, but from wear).
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt agree i used to do the old BMC Minis and the black Moly Ep grease was used for the outer CV joints , i remember doing Hondas innthe 80s and they had the same spider pot joints on the inner and it was the clearer grease and black on the outer
@@doctormengele961 i can still remenber the 2tc and the 8rc engines
Being such a experienced mechanic I am alarmed at the use of a hammer on a bearing to be re-used. It will without any doubt cause flat spots on the rolling elements causing eventual failure.
Just did this job, great tutorial. The only thing I did different is reinstalling the “spider”, I used a 32mm socket to put over the spider and hammered the socket. Went in very nicely, and no risk of damaging the bearings in the spider.
Did you do anything different to get the spider off before hand? I agree with some folks here that hammering the bearings isn’t a great option.
@@BlinkDavis768 I used a 32 oz hammer and a chisel to get it to budge. I was hitting it exactly where he’s using the air hammer at 14:10. Go around the spider on all 3 sides. It will eventually budge.
Ahmad,
Great video! Your shop walls and floor are very bright so you need to consider the light balance when you are under the car or making a point about some part of the car. Also, wear blue not black gloves to increase visibility.
It's hard to imagine anyone doing what you do any better than you do. A+
Going back many years , my Brother in Law who was an Aircraft Enginner, had to get the wheel off a 707-720, which was seized on.
He found a steam cleaner and used that to heat the bearing, the wheel then came off easily.
Every mechanic worth their salt understands the need to improvise and isn't afraid to do it, so long as it doesn't risk the integrity of the parts being worked on. I've jerry-rigged tools that weren't worth buying because I only needed them once, used cut-up soda cans as exhaust clamp shims and am now hoping to build my own ABS wheel sensors after I broke the original ones overhauling the rear suspension, because I don't want to spend $300 each for new OEM ones, assuming that they're even still made.
I've been doing this 35year. I enjoy working clean like you sir. I've been hourly for the past 6 years. Took me a few to learn how to calm down!
Hello! I have been trained by many master technicians. You are a top level educator.
I have also taken classes at tech college.
Great job
That larger clamp setting tool, for my GM vehicle anyhow, is actually designed to be used with a breaker bar on one handle and a torque wrench on the other. The CV clamps are set to a specified torque per the service manuals.
Though honestly, I love that smaller Toyota one as it could def come in handy in confined spaces!
I watched this even though I don’t own a sienna. Very informative. Could you do a video for 4Runners? Guys break axles etc out in the bush. It would be great being able to fix yourself.
Great video but one thing you missed was cleaning the outside of the tripode cage before you tapped the inner joint in :-). You mentioned that being important, but in my experience, I’ve always used a bit of grease on the boots to get them into the cv shaft. If clamped correctly, they’ll never leak. Also, as far as the grease is concerned, the darker grease is most likely moly cv joint grease which should probably go into the outer joint as that one takes more abuse vs the inner tripode. Keep up the great work and informative videos.
edit: I just looked up the inner/outer kits sold by toyota and brown grease is in fact pictured w/ the inner boot kits as I suspected.
This was a fantastic video. I wish I had seen it two years ago. I have a 2004 Sienna. It is just over 200k miles. In the last 2 years I have had 3 CV axles put on it (at my regular mechanic) aftermarket junk. Dang.....I wish I had known. Even though these aftermarket crap have "warranties" it is a pain to get it back in the shop, etc. etc. etc. Also ----- I have actually asked....a regular mechanic.... "If the boot is torn, why can you not just replace to boot????" I have been told you cannot do that. Because from a earth conscience individual, I hate to waste all these parts. They wind up where? In the landfill? Where do they go????? I am a huge advocate of fixing something as opposed to just throwing it away. Anyways...... I cannot thank you enough for making me a better consumer. There is no doubt this costs in labor. But in my opinion, it is such a better option than putting more parts in the landfill. Thank you again and again.
Seriously a master at his craft and a master at teaching. Calm cool head with every obstacle, easygoing going tone while discussing the process, expanding on details lost by others. Truly a man that has master his craft an mastered a life mystery to most of us all, happiness an joy in all life’s tasks. We have all worked with angry unhappy people and I feel I speak for most of us who have you would be a great coworker or boss. Cheers to you my friend the world needs more of your kind.
Thank you so much for this information AMD. I started hearing a click when turning my steering and starting dreading the worst that I'd be paying up to $900 to replace the the cv axles.
As always, incredible video, Amd. I try to maintain my wife’s 15’ Sienna as much as I can. I have never done a re-boot Job on a Toyota but you have made it look very easy and worth trying if I need too. Thank you for passing on your knowledge to us! Greatly appreciated!
I went through this just a few months ago. Ended up just replacing the boot clamps because they had loosened up over time. Dealer wanted me to replace axles. $1600 parts, $1250 labor.
How many miles driven since replacing clamps? Have you convinced yourself that the leaking stopped? More so than old clamps loosening, I wonder if the old rubber boots shink to cause the leaks. Give us a long time report if your fix works for 50K miles.
@@chetmyers7041 the rubber did probably shrink. It's a 2008 with 140k miles. This was only a few months ago, and only a few thousand miles since then. Won't have 50k data for 3 or so years.
Dealer stealers!
@@gulzeb
Never take a car out of warranty to the stealership, especially something like a 2008 with 140k miles. Most medium to large sized cities have shops like CarCareNut that specialize in one make and generally aim for repeat business, not bending you over with no lube like stealerships.
@@ruthnoya8424 that is fine as long as like you said it is a specialty shop or a shop that will use OE parts. Some shops are putting super cheap parts on peoples cars nowadays.
Thanks for posting the video. I had to rebuild my wife’s cv axel in her sienna and watched this before and during the process. I would agree with your final assessment of it though, it’s not an easy diy job but it is possible.
His work is always spot on. Here is something I tried, that would probably not get recommended but, so far, 40,000 miles and it has worked.
I was working on some suspension parts and then bought new tires, then immediately drove to different shop for an alignment,. They spotted some grease on my rim and sure enough, I had a hole, about 1/8 inch long, on my outer boot. I knew for a fact that it was put there that day, since I had the rim off and decided to clean the rim. So, either I damaged the boot or the tire shop did, it does not matter, it was literally 6 miles of driving and a little bit of grease escaped.
So, I got a syringe, (you don't need a needle) and put grease back into the boot, cleaned the boot with rubbing alcohol and used a black silicone to seal the boot.
Has it held up? Yes. Would your mechanic recommend this fix? NO. But if you catch the leak quickly, before damage is done and don't have the money or feel like doing the work to replace the boot,, or don't want to try a "split boot" that is available sometimes, I can say this worked so far and I expect the fix is permanent.
Love your videos - being retired now I don't get to play on cars as much as I used too - and the hands don't get as dirty watching videos. I've always been nervous about hitting the spider - I tend to using a three jaw puller. I always mark the axle / shaft and spider so the rollers go in the same leg of the inner - maybe I'm a nervous Nellie. Love the little Toyota tool - never seen one in Australia even in dealerships.
I had one of these rear axles go out in my wh statesman. In tracking down which axle, we concluded it was the right side going out. 3 days after replacing it, the noise returned. Took the car to a diff shop who told me it was on the left side. Got second hand units for both sides. After 2 weeks of no noise I concluded I fixed the noise. Took apart the old axle, grease had shriveled and dried, and there were millions of tiny steel shavings in the inner joint, along with 40 mm of side play.
agree with you of making marks to the axle,shaft and spider, probably the balance them at factory
I cringed when the steel hammer hits the spider rollers lol; there’re needle bearings inside. A brass hammer or a chisel at the spider part next to the splines would be safer.
Yeah would go straight to the collar. Impacting a bearing is asking for problems.
Im with you guys here... I couldnt believe what I was seeing..those rollers and needles, slightest damage or imperfection from the hammering and you Will feel it as a vibration in the axle as you drive..even putting the tripod back on the spline and Not marking its exact original fit position, you can get vibrations..so wacking the rollers like that is russian roulette
I bought a 12pt axle socket which came with an axle nut staking tool. It worked great for removing the stake (and then punching a new one down) so that the stake didn't ruin the axle thread. Just a tip for those without a cutoff tool.
Could you please add a link to it in Amazon?
@@southothehighway search "Toyota / Lexus 30mm Front Axle Lock Nut Remover Kit" i bought it years back for 33 dollars on amazon so you might find it cheaper elsewhere. Be sure to confirm you have a 30mm 12 pt axle nut
Great information for owners. Toyota CV’s and Birfields are some of the best out there, the metallurgy and build are phenomenal.
When persuading a spider I’ve had good luck using a brass drift on the center of the spider rather than hammering on the rollers.
When having to replace the entire axle shaft, I’ve had very good luck with the Toyota Remanufactured axles. They will save you some money and come with the same fantastic parts and warranty. The same applies to remanufactured alternators, calipers, and steering racks.
Question Kris. What is the purpose of the spider, what does it do ?
The spider is the carrier for the three roller bearings that allow the axle to pivot on the transmission side of the axle. It is held onto the axle by the circlip he removed when initially putting the axle in the vise. Think of it like a universal joint on a traditional driveshaft.
The inner joint (next to engine) has to absorb IN-and-OUT movement because as the suspension moves up and down (when hitting a bump) the axle shaft has to change length slightly. See my comment above for link to a great video on How Does CV Axle work.
@@krisholt8390 Thanks. Pretty ingenious design. Obviously not as rugged as a straight or solid axle but much lighter.
@@jeffreymcdonald8267 But wait - there's more! CV (Constant Velocity) joints are used on steered axles because they, well, maintain constant rotational velocity throughout the rotation when the wheels are steered. U-joints "whip" through the rotation when the axle is not in line. For old school drive shafts that was pretty minor but when the angle gets above 20 degrees or so it creates a lot of vibration. The inner ones don't have much of that to deal with - mostly small vertical angles - but the outer ones make contact within a spherical shell midway in the angle between the axle and the wheel.
LITERALLY just experienced this issue yesterday! My brother's 08 Prius had a ripped boot and grease was flying everywhere, I installed a new Napa axle and now its clicking and making noise. Thankfully it was a very easy one to replace and I saved the original one. Gonna replace the boots and re-install the OEM axle and call it a day 🙃
Very informative video. I would like to add to it. During my last experience removing this rt. front axle I found there is a dowel located between axle bearing mount and engine block. By removing the bearing bolts and prying the bearing away from the block to clear the dowel from the block whole axle can be removed. There are complete axle replacements available.
Thanks for putting out this video and sharing your knowledge via your excellent teaching skills. I can tell that you’re a veteran mechanic-a real pro! Thanks
WHEN TAKING THE SPIDER OUT OF THE SPLINE, USE A SMALL WOOD BLOCK IN BETWEEN THE IT & THE HAMMER, OR USE THE RUBBER MALLET, OR YOU DAMAGE THE 3 BALL BEARING.
+1 for too much hammer on the spider. "Notice I'm not whaling on it".....immediately starts pounding on it before using air hammer. Then pounds some more directly on the lobes when replacing it🙃!
Why are you yelling? No need to be rude. 😉
Could have sworn I used a bearing puller to extract the spider, back in the day.
I’d rather see you use a copper or lead hammer.😎
@@oldmatelots2748 "Too much hammer on the spider" is what I was thinking, too. Then again, am I a professional mechanic?
Thank you for a great channel, every time I watch one I learn and save money!
AMD, If the problem ever comes up, I will follow your advice. 😁
I’ll say amen to that! 😆
Great teacher!!! Thanks a lot.
@@jeanduval7877 Oui!
Thank you a million for such an excellent video! It was a little late for me, the same thing happened to my Camry and I threw away my original axles just because I saw the broken boots. and I put in some replacements that only lasted 1 year. At the end of having the same thing happen for 3 consecutive years, buy the originals. and with your video, I learned that in the future only use the repair kit and leave the original one that I just bought. But it wasn't $400.. it was $685 that they charged for the driver side shaft. But, thank you again because you are a true mechanic. God bless you for being a blessing to many.
I'm sooooo not going to do this job myself, even though I've replaced a few axles in Dodge minivans. But I do appreciate the concept of just replacing the boots and grease instead of the entire axle assembly.
Nevertheless, this video is excellent, and AMD is a remarkable instructor, as said by other commenters.