just did it exactly as you did, worked perfectly. not even the green key light. tip for getting it in and out is to tilt it to the right half way when taking it out and and straightening it on the other half ( you will know because it will get stuck ) and the reverse for installing it back in. big thanks
your green immobilizer light if flashing still because u have to replace 2 chips on that ecu. the one u replaced and there is a green chip that has 8 legs in a line/row and its located directly above the chip u resoldered to the board and that 2nd chip is elevated above the board by the 8 legs that solder to the board but if u replace that green floating in air above the board chip your check engine light and immobilizer light on dash will go out
So my check engine light and blinker light are out and replaced the bulbs in the cluster and now am realizing it has nothing to do with the bulbs. Really interested in what might be going on. Is it my ECM or ECU or what
Thank you for making this video! I bought a 02 Civic LX 5sp for $600 because it was stuck in limp mode. I scanned the codes and got codes for a an auto transmission. I could tell the ECU had been replaced so I ordered one for a manual car off ebay and swapped the chip and amazingly it runs like a champ. No cel light and key works great. Going to throw some extra grounds on it and start fixing up my new 240k mile beater car. Thanks again bud
if wanting to replace ecu and ign key etc from another car , how many components need to be change as set? key reader unit presumably but what about fusebox?
Cutting that interior is not necessary. Remove the screw to the left of the two you removed, and the whole front of the dash pulls out enough to give you the clearance you need.
Hey so I got a question for you someone who knows a bit about cars... I have a 05 civic reverb and my instrument panel won't light up and my green key (immobilizer) isn't even showing on it. My gears, engine light, maintenance, seat belt, airbag and turn signals all light up but my lights for lighting up the entire panel doesn't light up. I have no idea how to fix this as far as Ive checked all the fuses are good. Any ideas? Also my ac doesn't work, don't know if that has anything to do with it or not. And there is a white box behind the mirror changing button and it's got a green adapter that isn't plugged in and when I do plug it in, the alarm goes off and there is no way in stopping it. Also my key fob well reset with my car but after the door cycle commences then it won't unlock or lock the doors anymore and I can't arm my car alarm and there is no red little light on-top of the steering wheel anymore... Please can someone help me? Been trying to figure this out for a couple months now lol
Use extreme caution if you're going to use the "blow-dryer" method. Pulling on any surface mount component on a motherboard can & will pull the contact pads off the board & if that happens, you'll be switching gears to some line tracing/repairing (if you've got the skills for it) instead of your original job.
I did a Motor swap. I swapped my d17a2 for the d17A. I also swapped the tranny. Bmxa for the SLXA. You think if I bought the Japanese ECU, I could do the same chip swap?
@@Mr.Thermistor7228 I've done a bunch of reading. I think people make it more complicated than what it truly is. I just have a code, and been driving it just fine. I think, in theory, if I disable the key chip reader than I can run the JDM ECU for the motor and tranny. I just haven't done it because the car runs no problem.
having the same problem on my 04 civic, swapped alternator 3x and now realized it needs ecm, was hoping i can find a scan tool that can reflash the vin on a new ecu
I bought a matching ECU for my 2002 Civic. I heated with a blow dryer and was able to gently pry old small 8 pin imobilizer chip from my old ECU. Why did it not have to unsoldered? It appears totally intact, all the pins. Why wouldn't it just push back in new ECU? Seems strange, if it were soldered, it would never come out for me like it did. Was it stuck on the board with a tiny spot of glue and the pins were just pushed against contacts on board?? Any help would be great! I cannot afford to screw this new board up.
I went to take out chip on mew board and it tipped the tiny pics. Of copper from board, now there's nothing to solder chip to. Looks like I'm getting another ECU with matching key/ ignition. Theres no way I'm doing that chip swap thing ever again!! That is NOT easy.
Mine runs for about 100 miles with the battery light on, then goes limp (cel ans no signal to ecu). All i have ro do it turn thr car off then on. I wanna do a little diy but this looks way too tedious.
just did it exactly as you did, worked perfectly. not even the green key light.
tip for getting it in and out is to tilt it to the right half way when taking it out and and straightening it on the other half ( you will know because it will get stuck )
and the reverse for installing it back in.
big thanks
Glad to hear! Thanks for the tips!
your green immobilizer light if flashing still because u have to replace 2 chips on that ecu. the one u replaced and there is a green chip that has 8 legs in a line/row and its located directly above the chip u resoldered to the board and that 2nd chip is elevated above the board by the 8 legs that solder to the board but if u replace that green floating in air above the board chip your check engine light and immobilizer light on dash will go out
good to know im about to do this today thanks
So my check engine light and blinker light are out and replaced the bulbs in the cluster and now am realizing it has nothing to do with the bulbs. Really interested in what might be going on. Is it my ECM or ECU or what
don't default to doing this, mine worked perfectly without it
Thank you for making this video! I bought a 02 Civic LX 5sp for $600 because it was stuck in limp mode. I scanned the codes and got codes for a an auto transmission. I could tell the ECU had been replaced so I ordered one for a manual car off ebay and swapped the chip and amazingly it runs like a champ. No cel light and key works great. Going to throw some extra grounds on it and start fixing up my new 240k mile beater car. Thanks again bud
Good to hear! Congrats on the Civic and thanks for watching!
if wanting to replace ecu and ign key etc from another car , how many components need to be change as set? key reader unit presumably but what about fusebox?
Cutting that interior is not necessary. Remove the screw to the left of the two you removed, and the whole front of the dash pulls out enough to give you the clearance you need.
Hello sir, Did you ever resolve the check engine light and green key ?
How did you connect the ground wire to the alternator? Bolts?
Do you havce the components mapping for that ECU? I´m trying to replace the IAC valve transistor or capacitor,
Hey so I got a question for you someone who knows a bit about cars... I have a 05 civic reverb and my instrument panel won't light up and my green key (immobilizer) isn't even showing on it. My gears, engine light, maintenance, seat belt, airbag and turn signals all light up but my lights for lighting up the entire panel doesn't light up. I have no idea how to fix this as far as Ive checked all the fuses are good. Any ideas? Also my ac doesn't work, don't know if that has anything to do with it or not. And there is a white box behind the mirror changing button and it's got a green adapter that isn't plugged in and when I do plug it in, the alarm goes off and there is no way in stopping it. Also my key fob well reset with my car but after the door cycle commences then it won't unlock or lock the doors anymore and I can't arm my car alarm and there is no red little light on-top of the steering wheel anymore... Please can someone help me? Been trying to figure this out for a couple months now lol
Use extreme caution if you're going to use the "blow-dryer" method. Pulling on any surface mount component on a motherboard can & will pull the contact pads off the board & if that happens, you'll be switching gears to some line tracing/repairing (if you've got the skills for it) instead of your original job.
I did a Motor swap. I swapped my d17a2 for the d17A. I also swapped the tranny. Bmxa for the SLXA. You think if I bought the Japanese ECU, I could do the same chip swap?
Im not exactly sure if the JDM ecu is set up like this one. If it is I would think it would be possible.
@@Jdmforall I think you're right. I've been doing some reading. Looks like the Japanese ECUs do not have an immobilizer.
@@Mr.Thermistor7228 I've done a bunch of reading. I think people make it more complicated than what it truly is. I just have a code, and been driving it just fine. I think, in theory, if I disable the key chip reader than I can run the JDM ECU for the motor and tranny. I just haven't done it because the car runs no problem.
I'm having the same issue, can't the area that was fried just be repaired?
Can I do this with an auto to manual chip?
Hello, where can I get the computer 37820-plm-m51 for the Honda Civic 2001 LX.
Thank you.
I purchased mine on eBay.
having the same problem on my 04 civic, swapped alternator 3x and now realized it needs ecm, was hoping i can find a scan tool that can reflash the vin on a new ecu
I bought a matching ECU for my 2002 Civic. I heated with a blow dryer and was able to gently pry old small 8 pin imobilizer chip from my old ECU. Why did it not have to unsoldered? It appears totally intact, all the pins. Why wouldn't it just push back in new ECU? Seems strange, if it were soldered, it would never come out for me like it did. Was it stuck on the board with a tiny spot of glue and the pins were just pushed against contacts on board?? Any help would be great! I cannot afford to screw this new board up.
I believe that is how I removed the chips in my ecu.
I went to take out chip on mew board and it tipped the tiny pics. Of copper from board, now there's nothing to solder chip to. Looks like I'm getting another ECU with matching key/ ignition. Theres no way I'm doing that chip swap thing ever again!! That is NOT easy.
Im not positive but there was another chip that needs to be swapped its the large green chip with 16 legs labeled HIC340d
Yup, saw the same thing on another video
@@ricardopuerta6642 Do you have link to exact video ? Thankyou
@@rafaelgomez9232 ua-cam.com/video/GBywj31CTBc/v-deo.html
Big green chip is for immobilizer. It must be changed as well.
Try to show more details when doing stuff..helpful for the most part tho
Mine runs for about 100 miles with the battery light on, then goes limp (cel ans no signal to ecu). All i have ro do it turn thr car off then on. I wanna do a little diy but this looks way too tedious.
Mine did that for a while, but then one day, it died completely. I'd fix the ECU before it strands you!
What engine is that?
It's the d17 (1.7 sohc non VTEC)
U fried your multiplex fuse box