You sir are a king 😭👑 you saved my car and money the immobilizer on my car was not allowing the car to start the mechanic wanted to change all my immobilizer, ecm, key fob and quoted me more than what my car's worth after trying this it magically started thank you thank you thank i have no words to express my gratitude sir 🙏🙏😭😭❤️
We followed your instructions exactly and our 2017 Subaru outback reset perfectly. Thank you so much for your time on doing this video. We sure appreciate it!
Yes, that's right. When I upgraded LED light bulbs it might mess up the ECU as my dass board light sometimes come on and off, also the ignition. By chance I disconnect the battery and leaves it for about 10 minutes then reconnect it. I replaced all the light bulbs back from original. Wow, everything working as it used to be. The only thing in the video, I'd like to mention that : When disconnecting the cables from the old battery, disconnect the negative first, then the positive. Connect the new battery in the reverse order, positive then negative. Many thanks for your video.
I’ve been having the same problem one of my rpm lights are out and my obd2 port doesn’t read anything and this is after I upgraded from halogen lights to led lights.. so should I reset my ECU
@@SuperDoober Did you? I'm finna reset mine as soon as I get home. I'm having a check engine light for map sensor, I've replaced it but the message still persists. This is my last hope before I take it to the Stealership.
Great idea; however, seriously consider one crucial modification. Although I am not a general electrician, I did earn the certificate. That stated, connecting the positive and negative cables together drains downstream capacitors in the various circuits; however, it also short-circuits them as well, short-circuiting that can possibly damage delicate ECU circuit components. Therefore, I would recommend using a capacitor discharge tool like the one described in an IFIXIT article, “Constructing a Capacitor Discharge Tool,” by Andrew Bookholt. Years-ago, I created such a tool, adding alligator clips for convenience as well. Finally, for safety sake, when reconnecting the battery of a negatively-grounded vehicle, start and finish connecting the positive cable, ending by placing the battery terminal protection cover on the positive post. The last thing one wants to do is wrench-around the positive terminal while a battery cable is connected to the negative terminal. If one’s wrench should accidently come in contact with the frame, sparks will fly. For a negatively-grounded vehicle, that is why one always disconnects the negative cable first and then the positive and reconnects the positive cable first (completely) and then the negative. When jumping a negative-ground vehicle, connect the negative jumper cable to the frame, not the negative battery post, avoiding the consequences of a possible battery explosion. In any case, always wear adequate eye protection.
The capacitor discharge tools isnt necessary. The capacitor would be discharging through the circuitry of the ECU which already has resisors in it. Remember, its because the capacitor are seeing an open circuit when the battery is removed that is why they hold the charge. They would eventually drain after a long time. Shorting the terminals speeds up the process. We use to do this for old computers as well, unplug it, remove the CMOS battery, short a certain jumper and voila, your pasword protection is gone 😂
Disconnect Negative, press the horn at your steering to discharge if you want to, wait a minute then connect back the negative and start the engine, voila all the codes will clear. It's that simple, no positive to wrench, no jumper cables and don't need to waste precious time waiting. Just need a minute of your life of waiting.
I don't think he cares if the internet Cops got proof or not.Lol I bet the 2 losers who said they didn't see the light 1st lol I feel sorry for anyone who has to be around you cause I could only imagine 😅
I'm scheduled to take my car to the Stealership in 2 weeks because I keep getting a check engine light to a sensor that I've since replaced. I'm gonna try this as my last resort. They will not be getting my money if this works. I've long thought this was a reset issue.
Do you have to connect the positive and negative together to clear the codes? I thought just disconnecting the battery would clear them. I need to try this on a Subaru Legacy…
I drive a dodge avenger. So the battery is in front of the driver side tire. Can I just drain the battery til it's dead and then jump start it. Would the work to reset?
to me this is only if you have a ECU problem, after you disconnected your car battery for more than a year you should worry about ECU, because this is to allow the car run out of energy so it doesn't save any code 👍
try that and see, and if that works out for you let us know in the comments section. because for me I used the jumper cable and it was my first time doing it and it reset all my ECU
If you put the ECU in the microwave for 5 seconds it gives you 20percent better fuel economy an cooks the government tracking device manufacturers don't tell you about
I’ve done this to clear a P0101 code (mass air flow sensor) and it cleared it for about a month but came back. I replaced the air flow sensor and still won’t clear. My code reader says it’s a “permanent code”.
I have the same issue but my code is air throttle sensor. I'm going to try this method to reset all ECUs and tighten my gas cap and see if this fixes the issue.
Clean throttle body, and entire air intake pipe with throttle body cleaner. Change air filter, & clean mass air flow sensor with its cleaner. U hv dirt in ur system. I did same issue and good now on crv
So my daughter just got a 2007 Pontiac G6. She took it to get air in the tires. Came home and parked it. Now it won't start. Dang anti theft thing came on. I've tried unhooking the neg from battery, wait an hour. I've tried putting it in neutral. I've tried to do the 10-minute key thing ... still won't turn over. Battery's date says Dec 2022. Looks new.
It worked well. The radio and while making a Bluetooth call, they both would shut off for a few seconds and then come back on over and over, and I would lose power steering sometimes too. The check engine light came on and that's when I had Auto Zone give me a diagnostic trouble code, and it was showing the power train system, and ABS. Sure enough though, and the attendant tried to sell me a power train system for $456.90, but she made the mistake of saying that the codes just needed to be reset and that when I found this, and two other videos telling me to do this. Thank you very much!
Keyless entry receiver stopped working on Tahoe and my hair was beginning to fall out until I did what you said and it solved problem. Tahoe was going into sleep mode and stopped listening for remote signal. Thankyou, sooo much unfortunately, hair still falling out for other reasons. Great video!.
@@andreevans7720 those lights need a dealer scan tool or a good snap on type scanner, and will need to be relearned. This is necessary for warning systems and backup lines in the backup camera.
Amigo ,always remove negative terminal first,if you accidently let your spanner touch earth..the whole body of the car, while removing positive side first you may end up with no ECU.
That's completely incorrect 😂, the negative side or black wire is essentially the same as earth/ground connection. ALWAYS when jump starting or connecting a battery put the negative wire on first, it acts as a ground wire and stops sparks flying everywhere.
When you jump start a car you dont even have to connect the negative wire to the battery you can connect it straight to the metal body of the car because it's acting as an earth/ground
@skankhunt42 amen. That's correct. The negative should be last to take off because of safety. The positive 1st. Then, when placing things back, neg 1st, then pos. That way uou keep a ground in case something goes wrong.
He did the right thing by removing the pos first.then the negative. You need to keep the ground in case something goes wrong, that way it's grounded. U always hook the negative 1st and pos last to be on the safe side.
La demontarea bornelor bateriei: 1. Se demonteaza NEGATIVUL ! 2. Apoi pozitivul. La montare: 1.Se monteaza POZITIVUL ! 2. Apoi Negativul. Astfel vei evita un scurtcircuit facut cu sculele si eventuale alte accidente inclusiv o explozie ! Take care my friend !👍
Thank you for posting! This saved me a trip to the dealer to clear a fault code. Best description of this process I’ve seen on here. I recently changed out the coil packs and plugs on my e92 335i. I tried to reset the “service engine soon” light using several scanners but none of them could clear it or even see the fault code (presumably because it is now fixed). This fixed my only remaining problem, no more “service engine soon” light now. Only thing I might add is when hooking things back up to hook the positive up first. I’ve heard these cars are sensitive to that and it might cause a lot of other issues if the negative is hooked up first.
please don't think that this just fixes your car by osmosis. This just resets the check engine light after the problem that caused the fault code has been repaired
Hi if you don't have the jump leads how much time would it take for the voltage in the system to dissipate (without using the jump leads) before reconnecting the battery leads? Thanks
Well, it will work with many cars older than 2012 models. But, many of the late models, say from 2014 models . Also , if the malfunctions are not corrected , the codes and the malfunction lights are going to come back.
I had problem with U1000 code. My battery and alternator were good and tested, but it wont charged the batter, when I drove about 10 minutes on the road It lost all power and shut off. What should be the problem here? Please help Thanks
Cleaned throttle body butterfly and bore yesterday, then disconnected the battery reading 12.80V (= good). With a voltmeter attached to the disconnected positive and negative cables this left a residual voltage of 1.23V. After 45 minutes this had dropped to 0.14V. After 12 hours residual voltage had dropped to 0.00V. Then reconnected the battery. Started the car now purring nicely at idle.
So could I do this in 24 hours or less .. I'm guessing that would be a correct assumption.. but I'm in a pinch for time on my vw 2012 Eos Executive trim 2.0 TSI
That's facts I change a lot of things of my car and it was running worse like the computer didn't read them. New maf sensor new EGR valve filters battery clean the trothle spark plugs and cables . And it was running worse than before
@lover of engines , the brother how you doing ? I want to ask you if you do the same process you do to your car in a 2010 Acura MDX it will work? And if you had any previous computer updates it will erase the updates or it will not affect those ecu updates ? Thank you
How often do we need to do this resetting the ECM computer? Everytime we cleaned the maf sensor or throttle body or at least once a year? Thanks for the video. Is there any symptoms so we can reset the computer?
Excellent advice I also turn on the head lamps while the battery terminals are off, it drains all energy and you get a full factory reset, excellent video!
U didn’t show first the dashboard lights from the start as proof u reset it. Anyway I think we should drink beer together after I try this if this actually works on my lights from my dashboard on 2013 accord. This is diy money saver as dealer is charging me $195 to clear it and $1000+ cost to buy reprogramming scanner tool from amazon. Much appreciation!
Thank you share that information I'm grateful for it and I'm going to try it on my Nissan and no 300ZX I clean the throttle body that really cleaned it good and I forgot to do that and I'm going to try something thank you for sharing your knowledge
Hello, I had a vsc light coming on my 09 4 runner w 4.0L v6, code said cam position sensor, i bought cheap car quest senor, it worked great, starts right up. But after a 20 miles or a few starts, on next start up it throws vsc light with engine light and loss off power, if unhook bat it runs great again, then back to codes ect loss power. Please can you help me
This teaches us that even sometime its good to release them negative energy thats causing faults lights on the dash. thank you. The same method can be applies to negative comments lol
You are right. Every metal parts on the car is connected to the negative wire/terminal. If you positive wire touch any metal part while the negative is still connected to negative terminal you will fry your ECU and other eltronic components. Good luck there...
So you disconnect the battery cables at the terminals and touch the two cables together to discharge the capacitors which are basically mini batteries inside the vehicle computers thus erasing the computer learned memory and brings it to factory settings.
There’s a measurable potential between the positive and negative cables when disconnected from the battery. I use a very thin copper wire wrapped several 100s of times around a pencil to create a “resistor”. Then connect one end to positive and the other end to negative. The connected voltmeter then shows a decreasing voltage. When voltage goes to zero the ECU is reset without damage.
Just use a 12 volt Light bulb Buy a few and keep them in reserve - before they become extinct Do not use LED lights STOP wasting time playing games wrapping a wire around a pencil. Perhaps you wish to re-invent the wheel One could also use a a 10KΩ RESISTOR at least 2 Watts - 5 watts is more than enough
Thanks for the great video.. Always learning.. I have a vauxhall vivaro 2012 2.0 cdti, unfortunately error code DF067 injection multiplexed emission missing, and ecu no communication.. I have checked the midle connection to ecu, and I noticed that I do not have 12V on the wire T2 PIN 4Q of to connect to ecu.. Can be that the problem with my van? Thanks
They only problem with that in CA they know you disconnected the Battery recently if you have not driven the car at least 50 Mi or more and won't smog it for you
The reason you disconnect the ground first, is because the ground touches every circuit in the car. Therefore you disconnect every circuit, including computers. The positive lead does not. All the positive energy from the battery runs through relays and fuses, where the ground does not. If you replace the ground first and then are sloppy when you connect the positive you can do damage to your computers with voltage spikes. The same applies to jumper cables when you go to jump a car off with a dead battery! You should always connect positive and negative, and wait for about 5 minutes for the battery to charge and a computer's to come online. Hope this helps explain why the positive then negative rule is crucial.
Not all internal data is removed by this method there are EEPROM that will retain data without power like your memory sticks or sim cards. Critical startup data needed to activate the ECU. If you have flags or error codes they will come back slowly.
Yeah, that happened to me. The shop replaced the plugs and reset it, but I took it to the inspection station too soon. That's why I'm here now, to clear it myself and try again. I'll use this method and run some errands, then hit the inspection station.
Just randomly seen the video now. Is it just me, or the jumper cable from the "negaty" (black) goes actually to the red one on a side, so basically positive and negative cable from the car are not connected together, which is not a great idea anyways. Maybe it's just me......
If you disconect the earth (chassis/ground) terminal first it is safer. Your spanner will not accidentally short against anything. Also, you dont nee to disconnect both terminals. The circuit is broken as soon as you disconnect one.
@@hcic9860 I agree. But for me? I just disconnect the negative cable (and always disconnect the negative first to prevent shorting to chassis if removing the positive too). Then jumper a wire from the positive cable (still on the battery) to ground for the same "draining" effect. But for "newbies" it is better to tell them to disconnect both battery cables and then short the two cables together - not involving the battery at all. What concerned me is this guy had good intentions, but: 1. He disconnected the "positive" cable first - not safe. 2. When connecting the battery back up, he put the positive cable on first (ok), but "before" he tightened it, he put the negative cable back on too and tightened it first - not safe. 3. He kept calling the cables "terminals" - that is a misnomer, saying to "short the terminals" is wrong... terminals are on the battery! True, he was showing "what to do", but what he was saying was conflicting with what he is doing - and when there is confusion there is danger.
@@ericstern1754 My dad used to smoke over car batteries... I tried to tell him about hydrogen gas, he didn't want to hear it. A battery never blew up on him... he was lucky.
Holy shit!!! You're a good guy, I can tell, but WTF? I'm not doing videos on home liposuction procedures, you should not be doing videos on auto "repair". All that needs to be done is the negative terminal disconnected and touched to the positive, while still connected is fine (and equivalent to disconnected) for a couple of seconds. Process concluded. End of story. 3o second video.
yes and if you live in northern climates where you have a remote starter - you will loose the ability to use the remote starter until you visit the shop where it was installed. They will need to reprogram the remote starter so it will work after you do this process. Be forewarned because your remote will cost you $25.00 to get reprogramed to you vehicle... Dang it -- second time this happened to me and now I got an additional $50.00 sunk into the remote starter....
You sir are a king 😭👑 you saved my car and money the immobilizer on my car was not allowing the car to start the mechanic wanted to change all my immobilizer, ecm, key fob and quoted me more than what my car's worth after trying this it magically started thank you thank you thank i have no words to express my gratitude sir 🙏🙏😭😭❤️
Thank God. I’m glad that it worked out for you. I do this every time I have a code on my car 🙏🏽
@@Loverofengines101 thank you king 👑
Great info, does this also remove ECU lockout code?@@Loverofengines101
We followed your instructions exactly and our 2017 Subaru outback reset perfectly. Thank you so much for your time on doing this video. We sure appreciate it!
Did same for my 2011 Outback. Worked fine, suggest leaving disconnected for two hours or so.
So that’s mean you have to kept the car running for atleast 30 mins or 1 hr?
@@edgardoiisarsaba6907 Nooo,, it means leave the battery jump leads on the wires for an hour or two.
Thanks from Yukon, Canada, for doing this and your time budd...
Yes, that's right. When I upgraded LED light bulbs it might mess up the ECU as my dass board light sometimes come on and off, also the ignition. By chance I disconnect the battery and leaves it for about 10 minutes then reconnect it. I replaced all the light bulbs back from original. Wow, everything working as it used to be. The only thing in the video, I'd like to mention that :
When disconnecting the cables from the old battery, disconnect the negative first, then the positive. Connect the new battery in the reverse order, positive then negative. Many thanks for your video.
You're right about disconnecting/reconnecting the battery terminals. To help discharge any power in the system faster, turn on the headlights.
Scotty reconmends a 2 ohm 10watt resister across the disconnected cables, same as ypu did with your single leg of your jumper leads.
I’ve been having the same problem one of my rpm lights are out and my obd2 port doesn’t read anything and this is after I upgraded from halogen lights to led lights.. so should I reset my ECU
@@SuperDoober Did you? I'm finna reset mine as soon as I get home. I'm having a check engine light for map sensor, I've replaced it but the message still persists. This is my last hope before I take it to the Stealership.
I like Scottie Kilmer method of putting a resistor in the jumper cables chain to prevent any sparking from a sudden discharge.
I use a tail light bulb as resistor and leave for several hours.
Great idea; however, seriously consider one crucial modification. Although I am not a general electrician, I did earn the certificate. That stated, connecting the positive and negative cables together drains downstream capacitors in the various circuits; however, it also short-circuits them as well, short-circuiting that can possibly damage delicate ECU circuit components. Therefore, I would recommend using a capacitor discharge tool like the one described in an IFIXIT article, “Constructing a Capacitor Discharge Tool,” by Andrew Bookholt. Years-ago, I created such a tool, adding alligator clips for convenience as well.
Finally, for safety sake, when reconnecting the battery of a negatively-grounded vehicle, start and finish connecting the positive cable, ending by placing the battery terminal protection cover on the positive post. The last thing one wants to do is wrench-around the positive terminal while a battery cable is connected to the negative terminal. If one’s wrench should accidently come in contact with the frame, sparks will fly. For a negatively-grounded vehicle, that is why one always disconnects the negative cable first and then the positive and reconnects the positive cable first (completely) and then the negative. When jumping a negative-ground vehicle, connect the negative jumper cable to the frame, not the negative battery post, avoiding the consequences of a possible battery explosion. In any case, always wear adequate eye protection.
Wow thanks for the documentary but only one down fall I fell asleep reading it it took me a second try
The capacitor discharge tools isnt necessary. The capacitor would be discharging through the circuitry of the ECU which already has resisors in it. Remember, its because the capacitor are seeing an open circuit when the battery is removed that is why they hold the charge. They would eventually drain after a long time. Shorting the terminals speeds up the process. We use to do this for old computers as well, unplug it, remove the CMOS battery, short a certain jumper and voila, your pasword protection is gone 😂
Thank you great advice
I eat crayons. Can you draw pictures for me?
Disconnect Negative, press the horn at your steering to discharge if you want to, wait a minute then connect back the negative and start the engine, voila all the codes will clear. It's that simple, no positive to wrench, no jumper cables and don't need to waste precious time waiting. Just need a minute of your life of waiting.
Great video! Thanks. Ignore the know it alls. They're experts on everything without ever doing anything.
Didn't see the dash lights BEFORE this procedure was done. Surely this would have been a good idea to show us a successful outcome.
Whining never really helps anyone..
I was thinking the same, we're not sure if the problem is fixed, cause we did not see any...
What?
He said he had already fixed it prior to making the video. He’s showing the steps he used
I don't think he cares if the internet Cops got proof or not.Lol I bet the 2 losers who said they didn't see the light 1st lol I feel sorry for anyone who has to be around you cause I could only imagine 😅
Thank you so very much. I have a check engine light that is bothering me even after I have cleaned the throttle body. I will now try you tip.
Did it worked?
@@danandrei9197 It will reset a check engine light but unless the problem that caused the CEL is fixed...the light will come back on again.
Am happy to see you again
Thank you so much my friend 😊🙏🏾🙏🏾
Thanks for this insight sir
But I want to ask a question
Can this pattern be used on the car?
Brilliant, I bet the dealerships are not getting as much revenue due to such a simple fix, which they probably do anyway?!
I'm scheduled to take my car to the Stealership in 2 weeks because I keep getting a check engine light to a sensor that I've since replaced. I'm gonna try this as my last resort. They will not be getting my money if this works. I've long thought this was a reset issue.
That works for son truck my s 10 com back in a few days and don't want to take to the wrong 😕 place .
Thanks for your help today
Good Job! Thank you!
Do you have to connect the positive and negative together to clear the codes? I thought just disconnecting the battery would clear them. I need to try this on a Subaru Legacy…
I drive a dodge avenger. So the battery is in front of the driver side tire. Can I just drain the battery til it's dead and then jump start it. Would the work to reset?
THanks for sharing !!
What if I disconnected the battery for more than a year, should I try your method to my car?
to me this is only if you have a ECU problem, after you disconnected your car battery for more than a year you should worry about ECU, because this is to allow the car run out of energy so it doesn't save any code 👍
How to get the codes back if there's nothing after so long??
@@Loverofengines101 thank you
WOW. SO THIS MAY WORK ON NISSAN KICKS👍👍👍
Thank you, going to try this!
Do it matter if I use negative and a positive for the Jump leads?
Thanks,, one question I don't have jumper leads can I just disconnect the battery for 2 hours or so 👍👍
try that and see, and if that works out for you let us know in the comments section. because for me I used the jumper cable and it was my first time doing it and it reset all my ECU
As long as you can touch the pos and neg cables together should be fine, however not all sensors store electricity so should be ok to continue without
Is it applicable to all cars such as Hyundai,expander,honda,kia,
Montero thanks😊😊😊
If you put the ECU in the microwave for 5 seconds it gives you 20percent better fuel economy an cooks the government tracking device manufacturers don't tell you about
Thanks it worked💪🏾
Just remove the negative terminal.TURN ON YOUR HEADLIGHT and for about 20 mins. all the juice in your car electronics are gone.
Does the car have to be on ?
😂
I’ve done this to clear a P0101 code (mass air flow sensor) and it cleared it for about a month but came back. I replaced the air flow sensor and still won’t clear. My code reader says it’s a “permanent code”.
I have the same issue but my code is air throttle sensor. I'm going to try this method to reset all ECUs and tighten my gas cap and see if this fixes the issue.
@@regalsurvivor3418 good luck, hope it fixes your problem.
Can this also reset the Smartshield security system on your car or immobilizer ???
Clean throttle body, and entire air intake pipe with throttle body cleaner. Change air filter, & clean mass air flow sensor with its cleaner. U hv dirt in ur system. I did same issue and good now on crv
I have EGR code. I have cleaned it but i drive 50km this code come back
So my daughter just got a 2007 Pontiac G6. She took it to get air in the tires. Came home and parked it. Now it won't start. Dang anti theft thing came on. I've tried unhooking the neg from battery, wait an hour. I've tried putting it in neutral. I've tried to do the 10-minute key thing ... still won't turn over. Battery's date says Dec 2022. Looks new.
It will work fine as long as you don't get a ECM from module experts
James, my mechanic said that I need to replace the ECU in my 2002 Toyota Avalon. Would it be alright to do this reset and possibly fix the car?
It worked well. The radio and while making a Bluetooth call, they both would shut off for a few seconds and then come back on over and over, and I would lose power steering sometimes too. The check engine light came on and that's when I had Auto Zone give me a diagnostic trouble code, and it was showing the power train system, and ABS. Sure enough though, and the attendant tried to sell me a power train system for $456.90, but she made the mistake of saying that the codes just needed to be reset and that when I found this, and two other videos telling me to do this. Thank you very much!
I’m glad that it worked out for you my friend 🙏🏽
Keyless entry receiver stopped working on Tahoe and my hair was beginning to fall out until I did what you said and it solved problem. Tahoe was going into sleep mode and stopped listening for remote signal. Thankyou, sooo much unfortunately, hair still falling out for other reasons.
Great video!.
Make sure you have the radio code if your radio uses one, and disconnect the NEGATIVE cable first
Does the dame apply to a hybrid vehicle? I have a 2016 Honda grace, recently changed the rack and pinion and SAS and VSA light is now on
It worked, tnx...
No disrespect. but I find kinda funny some of the things you pronounce.
@@joseadrianmascorroaguirre1387
@@andreevans7720 those lights need a dealer scan tool or a good snap on type scanner, and will need to be relearned. This is necessary for warning systems and backup lines in the backup camera.
@@andreevans7720 also, you will definitely need an alignment.
I agree hundred percent? Negative first then positive? And connect positive first then negative
Amigo ,always remove negative terminal first,if you accidently let your spanner touch earth..the whole body of the car, while removing positive side first you may end up with no ECU.
Probably no spanner either.
Not to mention possible burns, and the dire need for a new set of underpants.
It works for me. Thank you so much. After putting everything back.I drove it for a minute and all warning signs are gone.
You should always remove the NEGATIVE side first then the POSITIVE. Replace the POSITIVE side first then finally replace the NEGATIVE last.
That's completely incorrect 😂, the negative side or black wire is essentially the same as earth/ground connection. ALWAYS when jump starting or connecting a battery put the negative wire on first, it acts as a ground wire and stops sparks flying everywhere.
When you jump start a car you dont even have to connect the negative wire to the battery you can connect it straight to the metal body of the car because it's acting as an earth/ground
Wrong.
Disconnect negative first, reconnect it last.
@skankhunt42 amen. That's correct. The negative should be last to take off because of safety. The positive 1st. Then, when placing things back, neg 1st, then pos. That way uou keep a ground in case something goes wrong.
He did the right thing by removing the pos first.then the negative. You need to keep the ground in case something goes wrong, that way it's grounded. U always hook the negative 1st and pos last to be on the safe side.
Thank you SO MUCH my car would not start after running into some water-But now it starts and runs
Wait, stop the video while I go and get the "no tools (10 mm wrench and maybe jumper cables).
Or unplug the ecm fuse for a bit and put it back in.. much easier.
You will spike components in ecu doing this and cost you dearly you don’t understand electronics sir
La demontarea bornelor bateriei:
1. Se demonteaza NEGATIVUL !
2. Apoi pozitivul.
La montare:
1.Se monteaza POZITIVUL !
2. Apoi Negativul.
Astfel vei evita un scurtcircuit facut cu sculele si eventuale alte accidente inclusiv o explozie !
Take care my friend !👍
why don't you forget about the jumper cables and touching both together it's the same thingRJPuerto Rico
Thank you for posting! This saved me a trip to the dealer to clear a fault code. Best description of this process I’ve seen on here. I recently changed out the coil packs and plugs on my e92 335i. I tried to reset the “service engine soon” light using several scanners but none of them could clear it or even see the fault code (presumably because it is now fixed). This fixed my only remaining problem, no more “service engine soon” light now. Only thing I might add is when hooking things back up to hook the positive up first. I’ve heard these cars are sensitive to that and it might cause a lot of other issues if the negative is hooked up first.
You ț😅
I’m gonna show you how to do this without needing a single tool. First thing you need is a wrench.😂
please don't think that this just fixes your car by osmosis. This just resets the check engine light after the problem that caused the fault code has been repaired
No it doesn't. Check engine lights can't be reset. You have to deal with whatever dtc is causing the MIL. Also, you can't clear a hard fault.
It errases all codes and the car will not run smooth after it cause you will need to visit a car dealershop to reprogram everything lmao
That never happened to me my friend I still have my Car running great up to now
@@Loverofengines101 what car you drive ?
I still have the same car in this video 2017 Honda Accord 3.5 V6🙏🏾
Hi if you don't have the jump leads how much time would it take for the voltage in the system to dissipate (without using the jump leads) before reconnecting the battery leads? Thanks
Good question. I did it for 15 minutes but it didn't work
This didn't work on my 2019 Stelvio. I left it overnight for like 12 hrs.
My radio stations didn't even reset.
Well, it will work with many cars older than 2012 models. But, many of the late models, say from 2014 models . Also , if the malfunctions are not corrected , the codes and the malfunction lights are going to come back.
You're the only person who understands this video Thanks 😊 🙏🏾
What will happen if I just erased the code on my scanner? Will it reset the ecu also if i just erased my code?
This is only people who don’t have the scanner
Why do we need jumper cable to connect negative to positive? Cant we just touch them together?
Some cars the battery connections will not reach each other. peace.
if you try to start the car with the battery disconnected will drain all juice from the system and reset right away...why wait?
I had problem with U1000 code. My battery and alternator were good and tested, but it wont charged the batter, when I drove about 10 minutes on the road It lost all power and shut off. What should be the problem here? Please help Thanks
Thank you so so much! You saved my sanity! Couldn't figure out how to make my car run once again, and this trick worked. Thank you!
Glad it helped!🙏🏽
Cleaned throttle body butterfly and bore yesterday, then disconnected the battery reading 12.80V (= good). With a voltmeter attached to the disconnected positive and negative cables this left a residual voltage of 1.23V. After 45 minutes this had dropped to 0.14V. After 12 hours residual voltage had dropped to 0.00V. Then reconnected the battery. Started the car now purring nicely at idle.
So could I do this in 24 hours or less .. I'm guessing that would be a correct assumption.. but I'm in a pinch for time on my vw 2012 Eos Executive trim 2.0 TSI
That's facts I change a lot of things of my car and it was running worse like the computer didn't read them. New maf sensor new EGR valve filters battery clean the trothle spark plugs and cables . And it was running worse than before
You should always connect the positive cable first to avoid sparks
Complete BS. You can't reset a hard fault.
@lover of engines , the brother how you doing ? I want to ask you if you do the same process you do to your car in a 2010 Acura MDX it will work? And if you had any previous computer updates it will erase the updates or it will not affect those ecu updates ? Thank you
I'm pretty sure this will work for Acura because Honda make Acura
Hi brother..will this method work on Isuzu Kb200 petrol fuel injection van mine wont start..thnx keep well.
No tools required ,so what is a spanner called nowadays ?
How often do we need to do this resetting the ECM computer? Everytime we cleaned the maf sensor or throttle body or at least once a year? Thanks for the video. Is there any symptoms so we can reset the computer?
With computers/servers/laptops, a complete discharge is very common when troubleshooting.
If theres a fault the code will come back, thats what theyre designed to do! You will only prevent its return by fixing the fault!
Will this work to relearn the cam shaft position sensor?? Anyone?
Excellent advice I also turn on the head lamps while the battery terminals are off, it drains all energy and you get a full factory reset, excellent video!
@Sissiwit Sukisok You better check with Scotty on that one; he says although they don't light it still drains any power out of the capacitors.
@@bradfallin2698 I agree, Scotty does give the best advice on UA-cam.
@Paul Romsky what's wrong with 2006 pt cruiser dieing when crank up and sputtering
If the alternator is charging it's not going to die
@@PamJohnson-iw2ztcrankshaft positioning sensore ....
Would this help with resetting a maf sensor?
Liked and subbed. That 'Toronto Body' was definitely the issue in my car. 😄
U didn’t show first the dashboard lights from the start as proof u reset it. Anyway I think we should drink beer together after I try this if this actually works on my lights from my dashboard on 2013 accord. This is diy money saver as dealer is charging me $195 to clear it and $1000+ cost to buy reprogramming scanner tool from amazon. Much appreciation!
I have a other video that shows everything
@@Loverofengines101I’ll look it up
Thank you share that information I'm grateful for it and I'm going to try it on my Nissan and no 300ZX I clean the throttle body that really cleaned it good and I forgot to do that and I'm going to try something thank you for sharing your knowledge
Love the video...very informative, the Toretto's body had me laughing for a good minute😂😂
Hello, I had a vsc light coming on my 09 4 runner w 4.0L v6, code said cam position sensor, i bought cheap car quest senor, it worked great, starts right up. But after a 20 miles or a few starts, on next start up it throws vsc light with engine light and loss off power, if unhook bat it runs great again, then back to codes ect loss power. Please can you help me
That's good info. IDK, sounds as if circuit has capacitors. Thanks.
Once u disconnect the battery just turn on head lights to drain power from ecu
I was going to do this until you said I need a 10mm. 😭
Try 3/8 inch. Also works on Japanese cars.
Lol 10 mm very common on car but also very hard to keep in the tool box
This teaches us that even sometime its good to release them negative energy thats causing faults lights on the dash. thank you. The same method can be applies to negative comments lol
I really like how you understand this. up to now I still have the same car I this video. and I keep using this to reset my codes in all my cars 🙏🏽
Hi great video. If I reset the icu will my tire sensors have to be added again?
Yes
Remove the Negative Terminal first!!
You are right. Every metal parts on the car is connected to the negative wire/terminal. If you positive wire touch any metal part while the negative is still connected to negative terminal you will fry your ECU and other eltronic components.
Good luck there...
08/16/23 let me try in my Elantra 03 I just cleaned the throttle body and put it new sensors. Let’s see. I’ll be updating this post in one hour. Lol
So you disconnect the battery cables at the terminals and touch the two cables together to discharge the capacitors which are basically mini batteries inside the vehicle computers thus erasing the computer learned memory and brings it to factory settings.
So basically you created a arch in the charging system to deplete the rest of the system's residual
What does initialize the new battery?
If you just disconnect the negative and turn on your lights it with drain the power from the computer in about 4-5 minutes.
There’s a measurable potential between the positive and negative cables when disconnected from the battery. I use a very thin copper wire wrapped several 100s of times around a pencil to create a “resistor”. Then connect one end to positive and the other end to negative. The connected voltmeter then shows a decreasing voltage. When voltage goes to zero the ECU is reset without damage.
Just use a 12 volt Light bulb
Buy a few and keep them in reserve - before they become extinct
Do not use LED lights
STOP wasting time playing games wrapping a wire around a pencil.
Perhaps you wish to re-invent the wheel
One could also use a a 10KΩ RESISTOR at least 2 Watts - 5 watts is more than enough
I was curious how when I get another ecm do I reprogram it to learn my vehicle?
Will this work on a car with the reduced power light on?
i try it, the car don't work
Thanks for the great video..
Always learning.. I have a vauxhall vivaro 2012 2.0 cdti, unfortunately error code DF067 injection multiplexed emission missing, and ecu no communication.. I have checked the midle connection to ecu, and I noticed that I do not have 12V on the wire T2 PIN 4Q of to connect to ecu.. Can be that the problem with my van? Thanks
Pppp
They only problem with that in CA they know you disconnected the Battery recently if you have not driven the car at least 50 Mi or more and won't smog it for you
The reason you disconnect the ground first, is because the ground touches every circuit in the car. Therefore you disconnect every circuit, including computers. The positive lead does not. All the positive energy from the battery runs through relays and fuses, where the ground does not. If you replace the ground first and then are sloppy when you connect the positive you can do damage to your computers with voltage spikes. The same applies to jumper cables when you go to jump a car off with a dead battery! You should always connect positive and negative, and wait for about 5 minutes for the battery to charge and a computer's to come online. Hope this helps explain why the positive then negative rule is crucial.
Negative is the ground?
@@supernothing77 yes
Will this work on a 2012 chevrolet malibu
This is for all ECU
Ok what about check engine light. My car turning over but won't start. Could that be the problem. I clean my mass flow. It just won't crank
Not all internal data is removed by this method there are EEPROM that will retain data without power like your memory sticks or sim cards. Critical startup data needed to activate the ECU. If you have flags or error codes they will come back slowly.
Thank you so much bro I’m impressed 😆😆keep the videos coming, great content....
Once you reset the codes it may say "not ready" on inspection, the car needs to go through a few drive cycles to be "ready".
Yeah, that happened to me. The shop replaced the plugs and reset it, but I took it to the inspection station too soon. That's why I'm here now, to clear it myself and try again. I'll use this method and run some errands, then hit the inspection station.
you wont do this on the Mercedes Benz 😅
I can't believe there are people out there still don't know to disconnect the negative terminal first. SMH.
Great hack. Technical name is battery reset. So cool you use the jumper cable. Normally I do it with a long extension.
Didn’t work on my 2015 equinox. Still have a permanent code
You have to first fixed the issue before doing this
@@Loverofengines101 I did, all new parts, air pump etc
Thanks friend very useful information very much appreciated 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Just randomly seen the video now. Is it just me, or the jumper cable from the "negaty" (black) goes actually to the red one on a side, so basically positive and negative cable from the car are not connected together, which is not a great idea anyways. Maybe it's just me......
If you disconect the earth (chassis/ground) terminal first it is safer.
Your spanner will not accidentally short against anything.
Also, you dont nee to disconnect both terminals.
The circuit is broken as soon as you disconnect one.
I don't know if I'd take that risk with leaving one terminal on 😬
Idiot on utube. Doing it wrong.
@@hcic9860 I agree. But for me? I just disconnect the negative cable (and always disconnect the negative first to prevent shorting to chassis if removing the positive too). Then jumper a wire from the positive cable (still on the battery) to ground for the same "draining" effect. But for "newbies" it is better to tell them to disconnect both battery cables and then short the two cables together - not involving the battery at all. What concerned me is this guy had good intentions, but:
1. He disconnected the "positive" cable first - not safe.
2. When connecting the battery back up, he put the positive cable on first (ok), but "before" he tightened it, he put the negative cable back on too and tightened it first - not safe.
3. He kept calling the cables "terminals" - that is a misnomer, saying to "short the terminals" is wrong... terminals are on the battery! True, he was showing "what to do", but what he was saying was conflicting with what he is doing - and when there is confusion there is danger.
@@paulromsky9527 Airing on the side of safety is always smart. Good observation.
@@ericstern1754 My dad used to smoke over car batteries... I tried to tell him about hydrogen gas, he didn't want to hear it. A battery never blew up on him... he was lucky.
Holy shit!!! You're a good guy, I can tell, but WTF? I'm not doing videos on home liposuction procedures, you should not be doing videos on auto "repair". All that needs to be done is the negative terminal disconnected and touched to the positive, while still connected is fine (and equivalent to disconnected) for a couple of seconds. Process concluded. End of story. 3o second video.
Will you lose all the presets on your radio, your clock, etc??
yes, it will reset the radio and clock
yes and if you live in northern climates where you have a remote starter - you will loose the ability to use the remote starter until you visit the shop where it was installed. They will need to reprogram the remote starter so it will work after you do this process. Be forewarned because your remote will cost you $25.00 to get reprogramed to you vehicle... Dang it -- second time this happened to me and now I got an additional $50.00 sunk into the remote starter....