Thank you. With your video, I had my dryer running like new in 20 minutes. I ordered the fuse and had it delivered for a total price of $3.35. I never tested the old fuse because I didn't have an ohm meter. I was pretty sure it was the fuse by what you described. My dryer was already on a pedestal so I didn't even have to prop it up. Wow, that was easy but without your video I would have had no clue.
Donald Netzke Hi Donald, I'm glad I was able to help. Thank you for the comments as well. I should add that if it happens again, you may want to look at the exhaust and how well it is exhausting hot air. I had my fuse blow several times then after taking away the 90 degree bends on the exhaust, the fuse stopped blowing. Thanks again...
Hi Quint. I bought a Kenmore Elite He3 second hand and was told it worked great, but upon getting it home and plugging it in I discovered that it doesn't heat (at all). I've checked the thermal fuse, heating element, high level thermostat and thermal cutoff, which all have continuity. Do you have any ideas of what else I could check?
If it's blowing frequently I would definitely check that the exhaust path is clear of lint etc. also, to improve flow I would also limit the amount of 90 deg bends in your exhaust and perhaps put 45 deg bends if possible. It will improve the efficiency of your dryer. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Matthew, I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 dryer, and it runs without me pushing a bottom, can only turn it off when I unplug it from the wall, and it doesn't heat up, cold air comes out. Please help me. Also where can I order the parts for my dryer?
Hi Thanks for the video have a question I'm trying to replace my heating element and got my machine up on the wood however I can't seem to get the screws off to get the panel removed. The one side is rusted a bit and the other I just can't see that great in the area to see what I need would you mind letting me know what I should be using
Matthew you are the man. In more than 1 way. My son's name is also Matthew that's a biblical name. It means a gift from GOD. At first it was hard to remove the fuse wire. But after wiggling it all four ways softly and I mean softly it will give way. Just be patient what do you have to lose anyways. So I got the wire off tested with the Oh meter tested good. Cleaned out all the lint. Then I closed everything back up and plugged the dryer back in and it worked. I didn't spend a dime. It reset it self. Thank you again Matthew may GOD give you many more talents. If you are ever in the LA, CA. area look me up lunch is on me. GOD Bless you and your family.
Thanks for posting this, but have a question. I'm unable to pop the wire off of the fuse to test it. Both wires are really stuck and I can't get them off no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?
Hello Diana, The connectors can be hard to remove. The best way in my opinion is to use a pair of pliers of some sort, perhaps needle nose pliers to grasp the connectors end (not the wire) but the connector end. You can try to work it out by moving it side to side and pulling back on it simulaniously, be very careful as it will pop off when it comes loose and you could bang your hand when it releases. I hope this helps!
I tested the fuse with the blue wires and that one works but the one to the right of it with the red wires does not work. Does anyone know what the part number for that is? Or where i could order it?
I highly suggest that you remove the part and run a search online using the part number that you see on the part itself. Can you post the part number and perhaps I can help.
+Lovita Belford Hi, please keep in mind I am not a certified maintenance person just a person that works on stuff, but what I think you are asking is where the thermister switch is located. If that is the case then go to 2:16 on my video. To the left (blue wires) is the thermal fuse. Just to the right of that is the thermister. If your thermister has a problem, you should see an error code on your dryer. I believe this model has two thermisters, and inlet and an outlet. Both should give and error if they short. The error I think is f23 for the outlet thermiser and f24 for the inlet thermister. I hope this helps! The thermal fuse itself is white and the thermister is black or brown.
Hello, I'm not a certified maintenance person so I can't say for sure. Also, I no longer have that unit to be able to quickly test it but my intuition tells me it's something else. The only way to know for sure is to carefully and safely remove the fuse and perform a continuity test on the fuse itself.
Brian, are you sure you are getting the right amount of power in to the dryer. You should be getting 220V from the wall. If not, check your breaker panel that it has not tripped. If that is good then you may have an issue with the thermister. The thermister is typically located next to the fuse that you just already verified is good. I will see if I can find a diagram to show the thermister and post it.
Yep, I'm sure. Did all the basic checks before even attempting to disassemble the dryer. I'm running home at lunch so I can get the model number and take out the igniter so I can bug it out. Also I will probably replace the coils also.
If you have a meter multimeter, check if you are getting continuity on your igniter. Of course its your call but I dont recommend replacing parts if you don't need to. By replacing parts that are not needed we may introduce new problems. The igniter can easily be checked to see if it is good or bad using a multimeter by checking it the same way you checked the fuse.
Set your meter to measure ohms at the lowest scale. Put one probe on each side of the fuse and the meter display should measure close to zero if it's good. If you get no reading and display value doesn't change, replace the fuse.
I guess it’s obvious, but… “if the fuse is ok, the meter will read…?” I know the answer but if you’re recommending people who don’t know how to use a multimeter search on google. You might want to explicitly state that the failed fuse will be “open”
The video was great and all, but you didn't finish the job. OK, so it's the fuse... Why not show the removal and reinstallation of the fuse and connectors? That's what people want to see.
Where's the rest of the video?
Thank you. With your video, I had my dryer running like new in 20 minutes. I ordered the fuse and had it delivered for a total price of $3.35. I never tested the old fuse because I didn't have an ohm meter. I was pretty sure it was the fuse by what you described. My dryer was already on a pedestal so I didn't even have to prop it up. Wow, that was easy but without your video I would have had no clue.
Donald Netzke Hi Donald, I'm glad I was able to help. Thank you for the comments as well. I should add that if it happens again, you may want to look at the exhaust and how well it is exhausting hot air. I had my fuse blow several times then after taking away the 90 degree bends on the exhaust, the fuse stopped blowing. Thanks again...
Once again you're correct. Insufficient exhaust is what made the fuse blow in the first place. I cleaned that all up. Thanks again.
+Donald Netzke what site did you buy the fuse from?
Hi Terra, you can get the fuse from Amazon for a very good price.
I never would have found the bottom screw. Thank you!
Does not show replacing the fuse like the description says!
Great video. This is exactly the dryer I have, and exactly the problem I had. Your video was exactly what I needed to fix this by myself. Awesome!
Hi Quint. I bought a Kenmore Elite He3 second hand and was told it worked great, but upon getting it home and plugging it in I discovered that it doesn't heat (at all). I've checked the thermal fuse, heating element, high level thermostat and thermal cutoff, which all have continuity. Do you have any ideas of what else I could check?
Thanks. Couldn’t see one of the screw’s you showed. Dryer oops the fuse every few years and I had a spare fuse from the last time.
If it's blowing frequently I would definitely check that the exhaust path is clear of lint etc. also, to improve flow I would also limit the amount of 90 deg bends in your exhaust and perhaps put 45 deg bends if possible. It will improve the efficiency of your dryer. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Matthew, I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 dryer, and it runs without me pushing a bottom, can only turn it off when I unplug it from the wall, and it doesn't heat up, cold air comes out. Please help me. Also where can I order the parts for my dryer?
I cannot get the connector off the fuse. Do you just pull it up?
Hi Thanks for the video have a question I'm trying to replace my heating element and got my machine up on the wood however I can't seem to get the screws off to get the panel removed. The one side is rusted a bit and the other I just can't see that great in the area to see what I need would you mind letting me know what I should be using
thank you I save hundreds I was like omg I need a new dryer but thanks to u it was a fuse so it only cost me $10
Thank you for the comment! I'm very happy it worked out for you.
Matthew you are the man. In more than 1 way. My son's name is also Matthew that's a biblical name. It means a gift from GOD. At first it was hard to remove the fuse wire. But after wiggling it all four ways softly and I mean softly it will give way. Just be patient what do you have to lose anyways. So I got the wire off tested with the Oh meter tested good. Cleaned out all the lint. Then I closed everything back up and plugged the dryer back in and it worked. I didn't spend a dime. It reset it self. Thank you again Matthew may GOD give you many more talents. If you are ever in the LA, CA. area look me up lunch is on me. GOD Bless you and your family.
stfu
Thanks for posting this, but have a question. I'm unable to pop the wire off of the fuse to test it. Both wires are really stuck and I can't get them off no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?
Hello Diana, The connectors can be hard to remove. The best way in my opinion is to use a pair of pliers of some sort, perhaps needle nose pliers to grasp the connectors end (not the wire) but the connector end. You can try to work it out by moving it side to side and pulling back on it simulaniously, be very careful as it will pop off when it comes loose and you could bang your hand when it releases. I hope this helps!
If I need to replace the fuse do you have a video on how to do that?
Oh I forgot to mention when dryer is running it doesn't light up minutes or anything.
lol You didn't actually replace the fuse though. I can take it from there but just kind of funny that you left out that key step from the video.
Thanks!
Sorry the message before this one is for Quint Jer. I though this was Matthew's site.
How do you loosen the fuse since there is no way to get a wrench to come down on it?
Not sure if you have the exact same screw that I do but if you get a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and a 5/16"" socket you will be able to remove the screw.
My dryer spins the moment I plug it in, I have no power to the display. Is it possible it's the fuse?
That does not sound like an issue with the fuse.
Improper Dancer I am having this same issue. Did you get it resolved?
I tested the fuse with the blue wires and that one works but the one to the right of it with the red wires does not work. Does anyone know what the part number for that is? Or where i could order it?
The thermistor (thermal resistor) located to the right of the thermal fuse will show a value from 5-20 K ohms.
Quint Jer yes it is broken but what is the part number ? I am trying to find it online so I can order a new one
I highly suggest that you remove the part and run a search online using the part number that you see on the part itself. Can you post the part number and perhaps I can help.
Where is the thermal fuse located
+Lovita Belford Hi, please keep in mind I am not a certified maintenance person just a person that works on stuff, but what I think you are asking is where the thermister switch is located. If that is the case then go to 2:16 on my video. To the left (blue wires) is the thermal fuse. Just to the right of that is the thermister. If your thermister has a problem, you should see an error code on your dryer. I believe this model has two thermisters, and inlet and an outlet. Both should give and error if they short. The error I think is f23 for the outlet thermiser and f24 for the inlet thermister. I hope this helps! The thermal fuse itself is white and the thermister is black or brown.
Thank you!!!
I'm glad it was helpful. Thank you!
We have the whole thing open.
How did you know it was the fuse?
The fuse can be checked with an ohm meter. You can check it for continuity. There are video's on UA-cam that show how to test for continuity.
The service manual had a troubleshooting section.
My he3 buttons dont work.....only inside light is on........is this the common sympton for failed fuse??
Hello, I'm not a certified maintenance person so I can't say for sure. Also, I no longer have that unit to be able to quickly test it but my intuition tells me it's something else. The only way to know for sure is to carefully and safely remove the fuse and perform a continuity test on the fuse itself.
I'm having the same problem. Though after checking the fuse, by itself, it's testing okay. Where would you suggest I look next?
Is your display flashing an error code?
No errors, just not heating up. Thinking it may be the igniter.
Brian, are you sure you are getting the right amount of power in to the dryer. You should be getting 220V from the wall. If not, check your breaker panel that it has not tripped. If that is good then you may have an issue with the thermister. The thermister is typically located next to the fuse that you just already verified is good. I will see if I can find a diagram to show the thermister and post it.
Yep, I'm sure. Did all the basic checks before even attempting to disassemble the dryer. I'm running home at lunch so I can get the model number and take out the igniter so I can bug it out. Also I will probably replace the coils also.
If you have a meter multimeter, check if you are getting continuity on your igniter. Of course its your call but I dont recommend replacing parts if you don't need to. By replacing parts that are not needed we may introduce new problems. The igniter can easily be checked to see if it is good or bad using a multimeter by checking it the same way you checked the fuse.
I don’t understand why you didn’t show the actual replacement process of the fuse !!!! I am stuck at the meter !
Set your meter to measure ohms at the lowest scale. Put one probe on each side of the fuse and the meter display should measure close to zero if it's good. If you get no reading and display value doesn't change, replace the fuse.
Nevermind. I read the other comment. I got it off
Excuse me, we have the whole back off.
I guess it’s obvious, but… “if the fuse is ok, the meter will read…?” I know the answer but if you’re recommending people who don’t know how to use a multimeter search on google. You might want to explicitly state that the failed fuse will be “open”
At least say what the symptoms are
The video was great and all, but you didn't finish the job. OK, so it's the fuse... Why not show the removal and reinstallation of the fuse and connectors? That's what people want to see.
Cannot access tutorial for thermal fuse 110 82822 102
You don't need the rest of the video, buy new fuse, install , watch this video in reverse