Just fixed my Whirlpool WGD5200 dryer with the insights you provided in this video. I also used an inline amp meter to watch the various components' amperage draw as they came on when turning on the dryer. My dryer spins using 4 amps and then the amperage rises to 6.7 amps. I interpret that as the igniter heating up. A few seconds after it hits 6.7 amps, the gas turns on and the amperage falls back down to 4 amps as the dryer spins and gas burner runs. I replaced both gas solenoid valves as sometimes the gas would not come on and a soft buzzing sound was heard. The dryer now produces heat and my wife is happy. Thanks for your excellent video.
EXCELLENT Video with no unnecessary distracting LOUD background noise/music! BTW! It is not necessary to disconnect both leads from the fuse or the ignighter to conduct a continuity test.
Just wanted to say thank you for making and educating us on this topic !!!!! Dryer stopped working. Money has been tight with tons of other issues happening all at once with our house. I watched your video , did what you instructed ,fixed it for $21 dollars and some change! Beats spending $500 plus on a new one . Thanks!
I'll be darned. I think I found the issue with my old Whirlpool dryer not heating. Seems to be the thermal fuse. Simple enough. I'm very glad I watched this video as I've never even touched a dryer before (for repair purposes) and had NO idea where to look. Removed the fuse, clipped the two wires together (for a short, TEMPORARY test) to see if the heat came back on, and it did. I ordered a new part and will test when that arrives, but it's really nice to have learned something and made some progress towards fixing something without having to call a repair-person.
I appreciate this video! This and several others helped me fix my dryer. Here’s a tip that nobody mentioned that would have saved me a $65 visit from a repairman. When testing to see if you’ve fixed the problem, if you don’t want to have to put the entire thing back together, you need to make sure the door switch is connected AND that you push down on the spring-loaded wheel that pulls on the belt. I didn’t realize you had to push down on the wheel to connect the circuit that would allow the gas to come on, and the gas not coming on was my whole problem. I thought I hadn’t fixed it, but I actually had, I just wasn’t completing that circuit to test it. I hope I can save someone else the trouble! I never saw it mentioned in any article or video.
very clear and complete/appropriate pics with detailed instr/ explanations and having a parts supply w/ instr. that i seldom find on one single video. You anticipate the needs of the person that has never done this.Clear and saves frustration and time on my part. ive only read to 2:34 so far,but i needed to submit this now or i may never get to it. I'll add more as I proceed, later
Just a wonderful training video that anybody can follow. Since I have a good electrical background, I'm certain I'll be able to troubleshoot the issue. I like the way it appears to explain themost likely issue, you the least likely issue. And all the tips given,may be common sense to some - but because they're explained thoroughly - makes this one of the best troubleshooting videos I've seem. Thanks for the professional video and information!👍👍👍
Appreciate your video very much! Although it took a bit of work to replace the thermal fuse, your instructions were spot on! I tested the old fuse and found it to be bad. Picked up the replacement part at the local appliance store and replaced it. Total cost $10.35! Again, great job and thank you!
Fixed my dryer with the help of this video, cannot emphasize enough to pull all the covers and clean out the lint build up, especially the fan cover, This is the cause of the overheating and the thermal fuse blowing. THANK YOU!
Excellent video. Your video solved the very tricky problem my dryer had of the heat not staying on. My meter readings were all normal with unit cold, so I had to take the drum out, start dryer to heat up the valve coils so they would fail, and my meter read no continuity on one of the coils. BRILLIANT. Back in business!
Excellent video! You guys are saving your viewers $100’s of dollars! Multiply that by all the folks seeing this and that is a lot of positivity! Thanks!
I am preparing to fix my dryer, and your video is spot-on!! Every component shown in your video is exactly as it is in my dryer, which stopped providing heat. Thanks for the great video!!
Great video! Just cancelled a service call I had set up (for $90.00) and troubleshot a $5.00 thermal fuse as the reason my dryer was not heating. Thank you!
Thank you for this video. My 35 year old whirlpool stopped heating up. Following your advice I tested the thermal fuse and found it open. Jumping that to test,the dryer heated up. I will be ordering a replacement fuse from you. A fast fix.
Great video, I think I found my problem after replacing parts already. Wished I seen this first! Dryer only does one heat cycle from a cold start, after that nothing, one coil shows open. Thanks!
This video was awesome, I super appreciate it. I found the first reading on my three prong solenoid to be an issue, I ordered a bunch of parts and hopefully my problems will be solved.
Lots of good information here but caused me a lot of headache. My issue was found at the timer switch in the control panel. Also, my igniter was good, had 60 ohms of resistance but my meter didn’t beep for continuity. Ordered a part I didn’t actually need for that reason. I learned to test my connections to ground to see if I had 120v in my circuit. This will help you work your way to the faulty part.
Thanks for sharing your experience! It's always helpful to hear about real-life troubleshooting, and your tips on testing connections will surely help others facing similar issues.
Just fixed my Kenmore series 80 gas dryer thermal fuse. I will never get rid of my dryer. No computer bullshit just straight foward and so easy to fix. FYI when testing continuity on a hot surface igniter don’t rely on the audible setting as the resistance of the igniter is between 50-400Ω and the meter will not beep with high resistance. I learned the hard way and ordered a part that I did not need. I will keep it as a spare!
I replaced my natural gas igniter myself, for under $5... Now, right now washing a load, & going to be able to dry them... My husband didn't need to, he's busy...
Hi! I just watched your video as I am having this exact issue with my dryer - it runs but does not heat. I have tried replacing the first four parts and have not been able to correct this. The last possibility you mention is the gas valve, but don't explain how to fix or replace that. Do you have a video explaining that? Thanks! Amy
Thank you! Best video instruction I've seen on the subject‼👍 I've got an older Whirlpool model gas dryer, which matches this. After testing all the components as you directed, it was the Radiant Heat Sensor that had no continuity. I had to remove the drum/belt in order to get to the heat sensor. Question: What's the procedure to test the dryer before I put the drum back in, and close up the top and front panel? Any special tips? 🔥Fire safety: PS: While I was in there I also removed the lint chute (mine had to be removed from the front, by removing the 4 screws that secure the bulkhead, and then pulling that bulkhead slightly forward while carefully removing the lint chute upwards, Replaced the 2 foam rubber gaskets also; for the chute as well as the blower housing, Had to scrape away whatever deteriorated gaskets remained, wire brushed the surfaces and of course vacuumed to entire dryer compartment etc.
@@appliancepartspros Thank you. Okay, understood. I ran into a snag, however (unrelated): Hoping you can answer: When I re-attached the long hollow lint vent housing piece (I had replaced the two foam gaskets with fresh new ones), I noticed that the metal oval-shaped top "mouth" (where it is supposed to seat against the lint vent on the top) did not fit snugly, so that there was a noticeable gap around the opening. This doesn't seem right to me. I used the correct gasket. I looked at several different gaskets for the lint "grate" part of the lint chute and they are all the same length, width and thickness. The bulkhead is tightly against the one-piece back panel that the sides are part of so I am baffled. What's the fit supposed to be- with a gap around it like that? I do not remember exactly how it was when I took it apart. I'm hoping you can shed some light- I don't want to re-assemble it if there should be a tight seal around this area..
exactly what I needed to know. my dryer would stop heating after a few minutes. great video! down to the ohm readings I needed. the print that came with the dryer didn't have the resistance of the solenoids, but you did! thank you!
This is an excellent instructional video. My dryer runs but makes no heat. However there is gas flow. I can smell it. Is there no safety gas cut off in the event the igniter or another component fails?
1:07 was my problem. All thermostats, element, and control switch tested good. Clean out all the lint blobs In the duct to blower fan and working like a champ.
Hi there, have Kenmore Gas Dryer. heats for exactly 1 minute then shuts off. I have already replaced the coils and the 4 sensors on the back. Just tested the Igniter and it's reading 064. Seems close to having continuity. Would I consider this igniter bad. I'm running out of things to replace. When I start the dryer whether it's low or high heat, the igniter glows, gas comes on and lights, then shuts off after 1 minute. Any advice appreciated.
How about this one ? It DOES heat....sometimes! Yesterday, it was ice cold; this morning, it worked, but only mildly. It can "kind of" WARM clothes, but might take 10 hours to dry a load. What could cause such intermittent "might-or-might-not-heat-up" glitches. Thank you for any feedback.
Thank you for your video. 2 questions (I have an older Maytag Dependable Care Gas Dryer). 1) Dryer runs, but doesn’t heat. I tested the sensors and all have continuity. I took the front lid off and connected the safety switch so I can run and see what’s going on inside. I noticed: A) The igniter gets hot, but doesn’t start a flame. I took it out to check for continuity but got nothing. Now doesn’t glow red hot, but not show continuity (I tried 4-5 times). 2) I took out both valve coils and tried to test for continuity on both of those following another video (Repair Clinic), and got nothing for those. At this point, I’m still unsure whether it’s possible both valve coils failed at the same time, if the igniter is bad, or if the gas valve itself is no good. Any suggestions on how to test further? Thank you!
Great video! I've replaced all of the parts mentioned -- still no bueno (igniter not glowing! Any thoughts? I suppose one or more of the new parts could be bad -- I don't have a multi-meter but may grab one just to test everything.
@ Good Morning - Thanks for the response. It’s a Kenmore 90 series - gas. I’ve replaced the thermal fuse, the other two thermal devices (one with 4 connections that sits on the exhaust side near the thermal fuse, and the other with 2 connections on the burner side), the igniter, the component adjacent to the igniter, and the 2 black coils for the gas valve. Also the rollers, belt, and belt pulley.
Thank you. If your igniter is not glowing, then you will need to test for power there when you have it set for a heated dry. You should have 120 volts there and if you have power there and it's not coming on then you will need to replace the igniter. If you don't have 120 volts there then you will need to check the wiring for damaged/loose connections. If that is good then you will need check for power going to and from the control board/timer. If you have power there and nothing coming from it then you will need to replace that part.
I’m getting over 1300 resistance one one gas valve solenoid and around 1400 on the other. I can’t find anything on the wiring diagram about the ohms on my model WGD5530SQ0. I don’t know if less resistance was the problem I can’t find anything else wrong out of the 6 point check.
Kenmore 70 Series. I checked the thermo fuse with MM. Continuity says Ok. The condition I am noticing is that when I turn on dryer, the igniter lights up and the flame kicks on , the flame fires/blows for about 3-5 minutes then it goes out while the drum is spinning, and flame never comes back on thus, the cloths are not dryer because drum is not getting and staying hot.
Question on a Kenmore gas 110.71202010. Does not heat. Have multimeter checked every component as ok but the three-wire solenoid. I tested the solenoids by applying 120 volts across the pins. The double-wire one, the one with the blue and white wires, made a distinct click like an operating solenoid should sound. Then I did the same to the three-wire connected one, the one with the blue, white and black. I put voltage across the blue/black and got a hum. Across the white/black I got a click. I did the continuity test and both solenoids were in spec. As I understand it, the three-wire soleniod has two functions, one is to make a preliminary gas flow on startup to test the systems, then upon ignition, to work with the two-wire solenoid to supply gas for normal operation.
To test those coils you will test them for resistance. Here are the readings you should get: Main coil: Test termianal 1 and Terminal 2, it should read 1300-1500 ohms. Then test Terminal 1 and Terminal 3, it should read 500-700 ohms. Sencondary coil: 1200-1400 ohms
@appliancepartspros thanks. I did that and they were in spec. But the hum that I got when I applied voltage to the three prong coil makes me suspect it is defective
What about testing the mechanical timer? In my case, I've got 120V to the gas valve with the ignitor disconnected, then voltage drops to 0 when I connect the ignitor. So I think the timer is bad.
To test the timer you will need to test for power to the timer and then power coming from it once you set it to a cycle. If you have power to it and nothing coming from it then you will need to replace the timer. If you have power to the igniter and it's not sending power to the gas valve then the igniter will need to be replaced.
We do apologize but we don't have that information. If you can tell us what is going on with your dry and provide your model number we can help you out.
Do I need to turn off the gas valve because all I need to replace is the thermal fuse on the front panel of my dryer? Please get back to me asap. Thank you!
“The Solenoids can have continuity but still be bad”. So then I does one best determine whether the Solenoids are bad. I have confirmed continuity but after the burners fire up the first time, burner goes out after about 5 minutes or if I interrupt the dryer (open door) then does not fire up again until after dryer has cooled down.
Starting with the thermal fuse and all those other sensors (?) in the back that I’ve seen in other videos being tested. can I touch the base prongs without fully removing the attached leads? Also I have no idea what I’m doing just trying to follow the videos I’ve watched😵💫 but they always remove the attached leads to check continuity.
When testing for continuity you will need to remove one of the leads to get an accurate reading. If you are testing for resistance you wouldn't need to remove the leads. A thermal fuse and thermostat would be tested for continuity.
I short the 2 multimeter test leads out on range selection 200 ohms setting and It zeros as expected ,but as soon as I separate the probes to try and test the gas dryers fuse terminals the reading changes to 1 before getting to them. My instructions for my multimeter says if it reads 1 reselect the next increase ohm range which happens to be 2000 ohms. When I do that and short the dryers 2 fuse terminals it still remains 1 on the ohm meter . Any ideas what might be the solution to this wrinkle?
i had a sears expert come by and he did a check and says my kenmore dryer elite 3 dryer will not or has a problem creating "suction" near the lint catcher, out roof top lint filter was cleaned today 4/14/22
New problem. my Whirlpool LDI5521N1 starts, iginter lights the burner starts. After a few mins I hear popping/rattling sound. The flame goes out but the igniter still is on and the dryer is still spinning. This happened a few times. Now I don't get a flame anymore. Igniter still lights and dyer spins. Today the igniter did not light. The flame sensor measures open. I shorted the wires of the flame sensor and the igniter comes on but still no flame. Any tips?
What a lot of these videos don't mention is a bad timer. I messed around with different tests on my dryer replacing the ignitor, flame sensor, and testing all my fuses. I even bought new coils. It turned out it was a bad timer..........
My Whirlpool dryer flame comes on but after 15-20 seconds, it goes out. I replaced: both gas solenoid coils + the igniter + the flame sensor. I have continuity in the thermal fuse. The thermistor ohms increase when I blow a hair dryer on it. I have the dryer hose removed from the dryer. Yet no change in the dryer's behavior. Any ideas what I should look at next? This is frustrating!
Can you help❓ When I re-attached the long hollow lint vent housing piece (I had replaced the two foam gaskets with fresh new ones), I noticed that the metal oval-shaped top "mouth" (where it is supposed to seat against the lint vent on the top) didn't fit snugly (especially compared to against the blower vent which fit tightly flat), -- there was a bit of a gap around the lint vent opening, which to me seems odd. I used the correct gasket. What's the fit supposed to be- does it have a little gap around it like that? I do not remember exactly how it was when I took it apart. I'm hoping somebody can shed some light. (My machine is a MODEL NO. Whirlpool Gas Dryer LGV7646AWO.)
@@appliancepartspros LGV7646AWO Update: I ended up fabricating my own "mouth extension" with 3M metal tape. I made it so that it had adhesive on the chute side so that it attached firmly but with metal touching the foam gasket portion on the bulkhead lint vent. Now there's no gap like it should be.
Question to anyone: Checked all components that were listed in video. All parts checked were good. Put back together ran one cycle and Dryer heated. Ran 2nd cycle and dryer not heating. Set temperature to high and dryer is slightly putting out heat. What am I missing here? Could it be the gas turning on and off?
I have had 2 repairmen try to find out why my dryer does not heat, one changed a thermostat switch and a timer the other changed my coil switch and it still does not heat, it is a gas dryer could the gas valve be bad
I have no clogs and I can see my gas Pilot is coming on . It must go out at some point because the clothes are not drying. I haven't laid on the ground and watched it through the portal the entire cycle. But something is happening within that 50 minute cycle
Just fixed my Whirlpool WGD5200 dryer with the insights you provided in this video. I also used an inline amp meter to watch the various components' amperage draw as they came on when turning on the dryer. My dryer spins using 4 amps and then the amperage rises to 6.7 amps. I interpret that as the igniter heating up. A few seconds after it hits 6.7 amps, the gas turns on and the amperage falls back down to 4 amps as the dryer spins and gas burner runs. I replaced both gas solenoid valves as sometimes the gas would not come on and a soft buzzing sound was heard. The dryer now produces heat and my wife is happy. Thanks for your excellent video.
EXCELLENT Video with no unnecessary distracting LOUD background noise/music! BTW! It is not necessary to disconnect both leads from the fuse or the ignighter to conduct a continuity test.
Just wanted to say thank you for making and educating us on this topic !!!!! Dryer stopped working. Money has been tight with tons of other issues happening all at once with our house. I watched your video , did what you instructed ,fixed it for $21 dollars and some change! Beats spending $500 plus on a new one . Thanks!
I'll be darned. I think I found the issue with my old Whirlpool dryer not heating. Seems to be the thermal fuse. Simple enough. I'm very glad I watched this video as I've never even touched a dryer before (for repair purposes) and had NO idea where to look. Removed the fuse, clipped the two wires together (for a short, TEMPORARY test) to see if the heat came back on, and it did. I ordered a new part and will test when that arrives, but it's really nice to have learned something and made some progress towards fixing something without having to call a repair-person.
I appreciate this video! This and several others helped me fix my dryer. Here’s a tip that nobody mentioned that would have saved me a $65 visit from a repairman. When testing to see if you’ve fixed the problem, if you don’t want to have to put the entire thing back together, you need to make sure the door switch is connected AND that you push down on the spring-loaded wheel that pulls on the belt. I didn’t realize you had to push down on the wheel to connect the circuit that would allow the gas to come on, and the gas not coming on was my whole problem. I thought I hadn’t fixed it, but I actually had, I just wasn’t completing that circuit to test it. I hope I can save someone else the trouble! I never saw it mentioned in any article or video.
Savior
Thank you. I have no experience doing this type of repair. Purchased a multimeter and started at the front of my dyer. Dryer heats!
very clear and complete/appropriate pics with detailed instr/ explanations and having a parts supply w/ instr. that i seldom find on one single video. You anticipate the needs of the person that has never done this.Clear and saves frustration and time on my part. ive only read to 2:34 so far,but i needed to submit this now or i may never get to it. I'll add more as I proceed, later
Glad we have been able to help you out. If you have any questions at all please let us know.
Just a wonderful training video that anybody can follow. Since I have a good electrical background, I'm certain I'll be able to troubleshoot the issue.
I like the way it appears to explain themost likely issue, you the least likely issue. And all the tips given,may be common sense to some - but because they're explained thoroughly - makes this one of the best troubleshooting videos I've seem.
Thanks for the professional video and information!👍👍👍
Most of the time its the cylinoids
Appreciate your video very much! Although it took a bit of work to replace the thermal fuse, your instructions were spot on! I tested the old fuse and found it to be bad. Picked up the replacement part at the local appliance store and replaced it. Total cost $10.35! Again, great job and thank you!
You're welcome!
Fixed my dryer with the help of this video, cannot emphasize enough to pull all the covers and clean out the lint build up, especially the fan cover, This is the cause of the overheating and the thermal fuse blowing. THANK YOU!
You are very welcome. Glad we were able to help you out. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Excellent video. Your video solved the very tricky problem my dryer had of the heat not staying on. My meter readings were all normal with unit cold, so I had to take the drum out, start dryer to heat up the valve coils so they would fail, and my meter read no continuity on one of the coils. BRILLIANT. Back in business!
Excellent video! You guys are saving your viewers $100’s of dollars! Multiply that by all the folks seeing this and that is a lot of positivity! Thanks!
Watched your video, bought my first multi-meter and fixed the crap out of my Whirlpool gas dryer. Thank you!
You're welcome!
I am preparing to fix my dryer, and your video is spot-on!! Every component shown in your video is exactly as it is in my dryer, which stopped providing heat. Thanks for the great video!!
Great video! Just cancelled a service call I had set up (for $90.00) and troubleshot a $5.00 thermal fuse as the reason my dryer was not heating. Thank you!
You are welcome. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Thank you for this video. My 35 year old whirlpool stopped heating up. Following your advice I tested the thermal fuse and found it open. Jumping that to test,the dryer heated up. I will be ordering a replacement fuse from you. A fast fix.
You're welcome!
Great video, I think I found my problem after replacing parts already. Wished I seen this first!
Dryer only does one heat cycle from a cold start, after that nothing, one coil shows open.
Thanks!
You are welcome!
This video was awesome, I super appreciate it. I found the first reading on my three prong solenoid to be an issue, I ordered a bunch of parts and hopefully my problems will be solved.
Thank you! If there is anything we can help you with please let us know.
Lots of good information here but caused me a lot of headache. My issue was found at the timer switch in the control panel. Also, my igniter was good, had 60 ohms of resistance but my meter didn’t beep for continuity. Ordered a part I didn’t actually need for that reason. I learned to test my connections to ground to see if I had 120v in my circuit. This will help you work your way to the faulty part.
Thanks for sharing your experience! It's always helpful to hear about real-life troubleshooting, and your tips on testing connections will surely help others facing similar issues.
Great video. I smell gas in the dryer and the ignitor is glowing but the flame won't turn on. Any suggestions?
Thanks for such a helpful vid! You quickly helped me locate a failed ignitor.
You are welcome! Glad you were able to fix your issue! If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Muti reader on its way in the mail. Best video I've watch all day looking for a fix on my dryer.
Thermal fuse!!
💥BAM!!💥
Thanks. Wife was ready to purchase new dryer..
Just fixed my Kenmore series 80 gas dryer thermal fuse. I will never get rid of my dryer. No computer bullshit just straight foward and so easy to fix. FYI when testing continuity on a hot surface igniter don’t rely on the audible setting as the resistance of the igniter is between 50-400Ω and the meter will not beep with high resistance. I learned the hard way and ordered a part that I did not need. I will keep it as a spare!
Glad you were able to fix your issue! If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Thanks, this is great instruction and safety education too.
You're welcome!
I replaced my natural gas igniter myself, for under $5... Now, right now washing a load, & going to be able to dry them... My husband didn't need to, he's busy...
Thank you for this! I needed this!
Hi! I just watched your video as I am having this exact issue with my dryer - it runs but does not heat. I have tried replacing the first four parts and have not been able to correct this. The last possibility you mention is the gas valve, but don't explain how to fix or replace that. Do you have a video explaining that? Thanks! Amy
What is the model number of your dryer?
Such an excellent video. I followed your instructions and was able to isolate the issue and get it working again. Thanks for all you do!
You are welcome! If we can help in the future please let us know!
Great video. Everything you need, nothing you don't. Thanks.
You're welcome!
Thank you very much. The content of the video is easy to follow and understand. You have saved me a lot of time and frustration,
Thank you for post. I able to fixed my 25 year old gas dryer with just a 12 dollar thermal fuse.
Thank you! Best video instruction I've seen on the subject‼👍 I've got an older Whirlpool model gas dryer, which matches this. After testing all the components as you directed, it was the Radiant Heat Sensor that had no continuity. I had to remove the drum/belt in order to get to the heat sensor. Question: What's the procedure to test the dryer before I put the drum back in, and close up the top and front panel? Any special tips?
🔥Fire safety: PS: While I was in there I also removed the lint chute (mine had to be removed from the front, by removing the 4 screws that secure the bulkhead, and then pulling that bulkhead slightly forward while carefully removing the lint chute upwards, Replaced the 2 foam rubber gaskets also; for the chute as well as the blower housing, Had to scrape away whatever deteriorated gaskets remained, wire brushed the surfaces and of course vacuumed to entire dryer compartment etc.
It is not recommended to run the unit without the drum and panels installed.
@@appliancepartspros Thank you. Okay, understood. I ran into a snag, however (unrelated): Hoping you can answer: When I re-attached the long hollow lint vent housing piece (I had replaced the two foam gaskets with fresh new ones), I noticed that the metal oval-shaped top "mouth" (where it is supposed to seat against the lint vent on the top) did not fit snugly, so that there was a noticeable gap around the opening. This doesn't seem right to me. I used the correct gasket. I looked at several different gaskets for the lint "grate" part of the lint chute and they are all the same length, width and thickness. The bulkhead is tightly against the one-piece back panel that the sides are part of so I am baffled. What's the fit supposed to be- with a gap around it like that? I do not remember exactly how it was when I took it apart. I'm hoping you can shed some light- I don't want to re-assemble it if there should be a tight seal around this area..
What is your model number?
@@appliancepartspros It's a MODEL NO. Whirlpool Gas Dryer LGV7646AWO.
Great video! If the thermo fuse is bad, will the dryer still show power or is all power off to the dryer????
If the thermal fuse is bad the dryer will not turn on. You can test the part for continuity with a multimeter.
Excellent video! Will try fixing my dryer asap. Thank you!
You are welcome. Let us know how the repair went and if we can help you with anything let us know!
It was my igniter !! -Thanks for the help
I have been able to fix soooooo many washers and dryers, thank you parts pros! You saved my a$$ more than once.
exactly what I needed to know. my dryer would stop heating after a few minutes. great video! down to the ohm readings I needed. the print that came with the dryer didn't have the resistance of the solenoids, but you did! thank you!
Nice video! If my fuse is blown, if I jump across the terminals to see if the dryer will work, does that hurt anything?
It's fine for a temporary diagnosis, just wont want to leave it like that. Get a new fuse back in there for safety.
Hey man thanks a lot. It is the ignitor. Helps save hundreds of dollars. No continuity.
You're welcome!
Awesome… thanks for helping me troubleshoot… it was the first issue.. the thermal fuse…👍🏻
This is an excellent instructional video. My dryer runs but makes no heat. However there is gas flow. I can smell it. Is there no safety gas cut off in the event the igniter or another component fails?
There are several, most of the things in this video, but they can fail
Thank you sooo much for posting this video. I was able to fix it and part was only $10...u saved me a lot of money!
1:07 was my problem. All thermostats, element, and control switch tested good. Clean out all the lint blobs In the duct to blower fan and working like a champ.
This worked exactly as you demonstrated!!!!! THANK YOU:)
You're welcome!
Hi there, have Kenmore Gas Dryer. heats for exactly 1 minute then shuts off. I have already replaced the coils and the 4 sensors on the back. Just tested the Igniter and it's reading 064. Seems close to having continuity. Would I consider this igniter bad. I'm running out of things to replace. When I start the dryer whether it's low or high heat, the igniter glows, gas comes on and lights, then shuts off after 1 minute. Any advice appreciated.
What is the model number of your dryer?
Excellent video. Clear and comprehensive explanations. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this VERY informational video
You are very welcome. Glad we were able to help you out. If there is anything we can hep you with in the future please let us know.
How about this one ?
It DOES heat....sometimes!
Yesterday, it was ice cold; this morning, it worked, but only mildly. It can "kind of" WARM clothes, but might take 10 hours to dry a load.
What could cause such intermittent "might-or-might-not-heat-up" glitches.
Thank you for any feedback.
Same problem here.. watching for some responses too 🙂
According to the video, probably a solenoid
Thank you for your video. 2 questions (I have an older Maytag Dependable Care Gas Dryer).
1) Dryer runs, but doesn’t heat. I tested the sensors and all have continuity. I took the front lid off and connected the safety switch so I can run and see what’s going on inside. I noticed:
A) The igniter gets hot, but doesn’t start a flame. I took it out to check for continuity but got nothing. Now doesn’t glow red hot, but not show continuity (I tried 4-5 times).
2) I took out both valve coils and tried to test for continuity on both of those following another video (Repair Clinic), and got nothing for those. At this point, I’m still unsure whether it’s possible both valve coils failed at the same time, if the igniter is bad, or if the gas valve itself is no good. Any suggestions on how to test further? Thank you!
What is your model number?
Great video! I've replaced all of the parts mentioned -- still no bueno (igniter not glowing! Any thoughts? I suppose one or more of the new parts could be bad -- I don't have a multi-meter but may grab one just to test everything.
What is your model number and the parts you have replaced so far?
@ Good Morning - Thanks for the response. It’s a Kenmore 90 series - gas. I’ve replaced the thermal fuse, the other two thermal devices (one with 4 connections that sits on the exhaust side near the thermal fuse, and the other with 2 connections on the burner side), the igniter, the component adjacent to the igniter, and the 2 black coils for the gas valve. Also the rollers, belt, and belt pulley.
Thank you. If your igniter is not glowing, then you will need to test for power there when you have it set for a heated dry. You should have 120 volts there and if you have power there and it's not coming on then you will need to replace the igniter. If you don't have 120 volts there then you will need to check the wiring for damaged/loose connections. If that is good then you will need check for power going to and from the control board/timer. If you have power there and nothing coming from it then you will need to replace that part.
@ Thanks again! Sounds like I have my work cut out for me! Again, your response is much appreciated!
You're welcome!
That was a great short and simple video 👍
I’m getting over 1300 resistance one one gas valve solenoid and around 1400 on the other. I can’t find anything on the wiring diagram about the ohms on my model WGD5530SQ0. I don’t know if less resistance was the problem I can’t find anything else wrong out of the 6 point check.
Kenmore 70 Series. I checked the thermo fuse with MM. Continuity says Ok. The condition I am noticing is that when I turn on dryer, the igniter lights up and the flame kicks on , the flame fires/blows for about 3-5 minutes then it goes out while the drum is spinning, and flame never comes back on thus, the cloths are not dryer because drum is not getting and staying hot.
This was incredibly helpful my solenoids where bad!
Question on a Kenmore gas 110.71202010. Does not heat. Have multimeter checked every component as ok but the three-wire solenoid. I tested the solenoids by applying 120 volts across the pins. The double-wire one, the one with the blue and white wires, made a distinct click like an operating solenoid should sound. Then I did the same to the three-wire connected one, the one with the blue, white and black. I put voltage across the blue/black and got a hum. Across the white/black I got a click. I did the continuity test and both solenoids were in spec.
As I understand it, the three-wire soleniod has two functions, one is to make a preliminary gas flow on startup to test the systems, then upon ignition, to work with the two-wire solenoid to supply gas for normal operation.
To test those coils you will test them for resistance. Here are the readings you should get: Main coil: Test termianal 1 and Terminal 2, it should read 1300-1500 ohms.
Then test Terminal 1 and Terminal 3, it should read 500-700 ohms.
Sencondary coil: 1200-1400 ohms
@appliancepartspros thanks. I did that and they were in spec. But the hum that I got when I applied voltage to the three prong coil makes me suspect it is defective
If you have power there and the gas valve is not opening then the coils will need to be replaced.
@@appliancepartspros thanks again. We will replace them.
You're welcome!
Thanks very helpful, made diagnosing the problem effortless. Ordered my new gas valve solenoids.
What about testing the mechanical timer? In my case, I've got 120V to the gas valve with the ignitor disconnected, then voltage drops to 0 when I connect the ignitor. So I think the timer is bad.
To test the timer you will need to test for power to the timer and then power coming from it once you set it to a cycle. If you have power to it and nothing coming from it then you will need to replace the timer. If you have power to the igniter and it's not sending power to the gas valve then the igniter will need to be replaced.
What is the model number of the Whirlpool dryer used in this video tutorial?
We do apologize but we don't have that information. If you can tell us what is going on with your dry and provide your model number we can help you out.
Great Video, thank you. Very clear and thorough instructions.
Do I need to turn off the gas valve because all I need to replace is the thermal fuse on the front panel of my dryer? Please get back to me asap. Thank you!
“The Solenoids can have continuity but still be bad”. So then I does one best determine whether the Solenoids are bad. I have confirmed continuity but after the burners fire up the first time, burner goes out after about 5 minutes or if I interrupt the dryer (open door) then does not fire up again until after dryer has cooled down.
That's why he gave a specific range for the resistance on those. They might have continuity, but be outside that range, and wouldn't perform properly.
OUTSTANDING ‼️
Thank you!
How exactly do you clean the inside dryer vent tube all the way to the outside of the house once a year?
leaf blower
They sell a brush like the one he showed in the video. Mine has a 10 foot handle. Cost me about $15 if I remember right.
I had no readings for continuity, but I had readings for ohms when I tested the radiant flame sensor. Does the radiant flame sensor need replaced?
If all of the components from 1-5 check out and the gas valve is also replaced, what could be the issue? Is the last part the PCB?
Thank you very much!
You're welcome!
Great video, helped me take care of dryer issue.
I have a question the flame comes on at the beginning of the dryer but during the time of the drying it doesn't continue to come on and off
Excellent video.
Very good video ❤
Thank you.
thank you for a video it help me a lot
Do I have to disconnect the prongs to test it? Mine are so hard to remove
Which part are you wanting to test?
Starting with the thermal fuse and all those other sensors (?) in the back that I’ve seen in other videos being tested. can I touch the base prongs without fully removing the attached leads? Also I have no idea what I’m doing just trying to follow the videos I’ve watched😵💫 but they always remove the attached leads to check continuity.
I’m assuming it is the thermal fuse because I found a TON of trapped lint in the lint chute.
When testing for continuity you will need to remove one of the leads to get an accurate reading. If you are testing for resistance you wouldn't need to remove the leads. A thermal fuse and thermostat would be tested for continuity.
I short the 2 multimeter test leads out on range selection 200 ohms setting and It zeros as expected ,but as soon as I separate the probes to try and test the gas dryers fuse terminals the reading changes to 1 before getting to them.
My instructions for my multimeter says if it reads 1 reselect the next increase ohm range which happens to be 2000 ohms. When I do that and short the dryers 2 fuse terminals it still remains 1 on the ohm meter . Any ideas what might be the solution to this wrinkle?
Instead of ohms, change the meter to continuity testing.
Absolutely love the hairdo
Thank you!
i had a sears expert come by and he did a check and says my kenmore dryer elite 3 dryer will not or has a problem creating "suction" near the lint catcher, out roof top lint filter was cleaned today 4/14/22
what would be great is if you were to show us how to access the burner assembly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So the 3 leg coil both of my NEW ones measure 2260 ohms??? Is this ok?
New problem. my Whirlpool LDI5521N1 starts, iginter lights the burner starts. After a few mins I hear popping/rattling sound. The flame goes out but the igniter still is on and the dryer is still spinning. This happened a few times. Now I don't get a flame anymore. Igniter still lights and dyer spins.
Today the igniter did not light. The flame sensor measures open. I shorted the wires of the flame sensor and the igniter comes on but still no flame. Any tips?
What a lot of these videos don't mention is a bad timer. I messed around with different tests on my dryer replacing the ignitor, flame sensor, and testing all my fuses. I even bought new coils. It turned out it was a bad timer..........
I need information on amalleys drier model wed924
My Whirlpool dryer flame comes on but after 15-20 seconds, it goes out. I replaced: both gas solenoid coils + the igniter + the flame sensor. I have continuity in the thermal fuse. The thermistor ohms increase when I blow a hair dryer on it. I have the dryer hose removed from the dryer. Yet no change in the dryer's behavior. Any ideas what I should look at next? This is frustrating!
What is the model number of your dryer?
@@appliancepartspros whirlpool wgd8900bc0
Can you help❓ When I re-attached the long hollow lint vent housing piece (I had replaced the two foam gaskets with fresh new ones), I noticed that the metal oval-shaped top "mouth" (where it is supposed to seat against the lint vent on the top) didn't fit snugly (especially compared to against the blower vent which fit tightly flat), -- there was a bit of a gap around the lint vent opening, which to me seems odd. I used the correct gasket. What's the fit supposed to be- does it have a little gap around it like that? I do not remember exactly how it was when I took it apart. I'm hoping somebody can shed some light. (My machine is a MODEL NO. Whirlpool Gas Dryer LGV7646AWO.)
Do you know what part number you used for that part?
@@appliancepartspros LGV7646AWO Update: I ended up fabricating my own "mouth extension" with 3M metal tape. I made it so that it had adhesive on the chute side so that it attached firmly but with metal touching the foam gasket portion on the bulkhead lint vent. Now there's no gap like it should be.
Question to anyone: Checked all components that were listed in video. All parts checked were good. Put back together ran one cycle and Dryer heated. Ran 2nd cycle and dryer not heating. Set temperature to high and dryer is slightly putting out heat. What am I missing here? Could it be the gas turning on and off?
Maybe it’s the gas valve solenoids. I had the same problem and once I changed them it worked like brand new. Good luck 👍🏼
Excellent video. Thank you
Thanks
Easy to understand and touble shoot thanks
So I unhooked my fuse and didn’t pay attention to what color wire went where. How can I find out?
What would cause the flame to shut off after 20-30 seconds?
What is your model number?
Excellent video. I have seen a bad timer on a gas dryer but that is rare.
Thanks Dan. Means a lot coming from you. Many more of these to follow.
Dan Webster I’m Xander
cool saved a bunch of money I bet
@@xandernicol3980
I tried everything you said, but the gas valve, what are the chances the gas valve is stuck closed.
Very helpful! Now I don’t have to buy a new dryer!
I have had 2 repairmen try to find out why my dryer does not heat, one changed a thermostat switch and a timer the other changed my coil switch and it still does not heat, it is a gas dryer could the gas valve be bad
It is possible that the gas valve could have gone bad. What is the model number of your dryer?
Great video
thanks
Great Video, Thank you for your help
Excellent!
THANK YOU , IT TURNED OUT TO BE A BAD THERMAL FUSE!
how you remove those wires from thermal fuse
You should be able to just take them off. Do you happen to have your model number of the dryer?
I have no clogs and I can see my gas Pilot is coming on . It must go out at some point because the clothes are not drying. I haven't laid on the ground and watched it through the portal the entire cycle. But something is happening within that 50 minute cycle
I turned my gas off at the main. I turned the gas back on,now my dryer won't get hot. What is the solution.