This is the first wheelbase ive ever gotten that made me instantly faster. It's the knowing where grip is at all times. You can feel where you sre at when pushing super hard at the limits of grip and it just holds on stronger and longer then other wheelbases which usually loosen giving a slight understeer feeling around some corners yet this wheelbase doesn't do that. It always feels connected it's probably the least understeer feel ive ever had from a wheelbase due to feeling like I can control every little movement of the car. People say power doesn't matter but after experiencing this I think it does. I think the motor being able to hold the condtant torque is what helps the feeling of control. If you don't feel that weight or wheels you don't have that same control it's like every movement gets felt. When looser it feels like you have to over use the wheel. But there is a happy medium with this base yku don't need to use it at 15nm its way to heavy of a 15nm base for most to enjoy that but the power of it helps you use it even at half power. It has this perfect balance of free flowing while sligjtly dampened giving a super polished feel and tons of details. While feeling the weight but also being able to whip it around when needed. I mean its the only base that I've used that I could catch slides on f1 2023 no other wheelbase does the feeling of losing traction you can't feel with other bases. And f1 2023 has always had a slight lag so this wheelbase helps alot tbh. Idk how to explain it better then what I have. The most simple of answers is you feel much more grounded. Also for those cswv2.5 lovers out there if you get this hit me up in the comments or on my page I found the settings that make it feel identical in weight and feel. It's 50%50 so wheelbase not 100% like some say 50/50 works really good with this base. It won't over work you ans you still get that weight when needed with all of the detail you could ask for! Turn INT to 2 or 4 depending on what you like it allows for much more raw ffb details to come through then the stock INT at 11.
I went from the CS V2.5 to the CS DD after 6 years and it is like getting new glasses , it's so crisp and responsive , easier to catch a spin and now find I can get the car to drift in iRacing, I also got myself the Mclaren gt3 wheel . this was a big difference in controlling the car , far better with the wider rim than the V2.5 wheel (that now feels like a toy)
@@Phil_3491 I went from v2.5 to DD.....Most of the time I only run the DD at 9-10nm (12nm is too much)...IMO If you do not need the Playstation Chip there is no point in the DD+ and its extra torque, it would be lost on my setup anyway Overall the CS DD is amazing compared to the v2.5. Hope that helps
I went from DD Pro 8nm to DD+ and i think this upgrade was a great one. DD Pro is still a good wheel base, but good is he enemy of great. Im keeping my DD Pro as a spare.
Just bought the bundle that comes with the blue F1 v2.5. This is the first set up I've ever owned. I didnt want to have to upgrade in the near future so I went with this. And I was right. I went big or went home not settling for any of the older DDs. The CS DD+ is absolutely amazing!
I was thinking to upgrade from csl dd to this, but I already invested in QR1 for both my wheels. Since the fact that you invested so much money into their ecosystem means nothing to them and they can't give you a good price on qr1 -> qr2 swap + they charge so much extra on this base compared to competition - selling my 2 wheels + booster kit + csl dd and going somewhere else is a better financial choice. I also don't trust them with their quality - plastic QR1 was a trash and the fact they were OK with selling this to 8nm wheelbase should be punishable. Also the C clamp that doesn't work and fragile connectors at the back.
I went from the CS V2.5 to the CS DD after 6 years and it is like getting new glasses , it's so crisp and responsive , easier to catch a spin and now find I can get the car to drift in iRacing, I also got myself the Mclaren gt3 wheel . this was a big difference in controlling the car , far better with the wider rim than the V2.5 wheel (that now feels like a toy
People just dont get it. Ill also never unsrrstand people that turn dampening all the way off and ruin alot of the center forces with spring and dampening turned all the way down. You want those center forces of torwue so when you turn in if it does go loose yku know its grip or understeer snd you can catch it. If the wheel itself is lolser already its harder to tell much harder. So i love center torque it helps me be faster truely. But of course yall can turn dampening down im nust stating the whole turning everything off that just doesnt work like some think. Ypu wont get more detail. Once you get dampening right the details will still come trhough but more counter weight. Sure to much actually dampens things but the right amount is so so nice. Ive told everyone there is a reason early on dd wheels were all made with higher torque dd is meant to have that its so smooth and it isnt a belt being pulled by a motor creating forces. So its just really different. You need like 10 to 15nm to get a true dd experience and get all of the benefits that comes with.
I honestly can't believe that u think 8nm isn't enough. Real track car steering wheel force is generally between 8 and 11nm.(this is stated by a gt3 driver) What are ur lap time gains with 15nm over 8nm?
@@TheOfficialRandomGuy Feel free to check my video on CSL DD vs CSL elite - I clearly said it didn't feel any stronger than the 6Nm CSL Elite. And I got into debate with several people. Now I start to think if I got a defective unit.
Yes, the street car I track also falls into that torque range, but when you are actually moving with the vehicle, the response is just so much more clear. I think the problem with sim racing is that everything is felt through the wheel (and some visual cue from the display, for those that does not have a motion platform), I do think I need a stronger wheelbase to get that level of granularity. BTW in the video I mentioned it was set to 85%, which translate to 12.75Nm, and I thought that was sufficient. I got the 15Nm version because I need PS compatibility. If that's not important, I would agree that 12Nm should be sufficient. And no, 8Nm is not enough if you ask me. And just like everything else - I would totally expect people to have different opinions.
@@TheOfficialRandomGuy It is not about max torque, it is about slew rate - how fast those Nm can be delivered, how fast = precise motor can change directions (on stiff GT3 and formula cars). Torque specs on old FF bases are loose, slew rate is unknown. More slew rate = better, while 10Nm is sweet spot (limit) most pro-simraces are settled at. The comparison is unfair, CSL DD should have been compared to regular ClubSport DD.
Finally a comment that makes sense. It’s funny how we can all get sucked in. I never wish for more torque from my CSL DD and it’s set at 80%. Just get the settings right. I buy as little from FANATEC as possible after my experience with quality and service. A VERY long and painful journey
Please correct the video title, it's the Clubsport DD+ (you missed the +) 😎 BTW I have the GT DD Extreme bundle, and also the McLaren GT3 V2 wheel, and they are awesome 😁😁😁 the McLaren wheel also works with the Crew Motorfest (the GT Extreme wheel has a bug with that game on both PS5 and PC).
Clubsport vs CSL, I'd go with clubsport in a heartbeat. DD+ depends on whether you need PS comparibility. I'd say 12Nm is sufficient for anything non-F1. I have DD+ for compatibility, I don't even run it at 100% FFB.
Not sure where you got the number from, even the cheapest CSL DD costs more than that. The PS compatible version of CSL DD costs $600, and the PS compatible CS DD costs $1000, the price difference is $400. And yes, to me the additional torque is worth that price difference.
can you use is for ps aswell because you can buy steering wheel and pedals from ps but not a wheelbase (pls react it depends if im gonna buy it or not.)
Which one lasted longest before failures and glitches? It should be Junk Vs Junk for those that love to throw away money on false claims and overpriced cheap equipment with no quality control made by a company that provides no customer support after sales. The internet is fairly well up to speed on just how crap Fanatec is now, no one should be buying this junk with better options out there.
Lool you don't know tf you are saying. Fanatec has huge problems with shipling en customer service but their quality is good. Really good. There is a reason their podium wheel base is one of the most used by esporters but zure we will listen to you over them ;)
@@pedramr34 i do know VERY well what i am saying, after going through 3 DD1s before i had one that was somewhat acceptable in terms of function, and didn't randomly stop working or randomly lose connection to the wheel requiring the wheel to have to be taken off and put back on to correct it, which was a fairly common issue. Being the fanboy you are, you'd know most esporters using anything from Fanatec are doing so because they're getting it free, and they're sponsored. That's a known fact. Their forum was rife with complaints being quickly deleted years ago, their customer support was pretty much not even there, and posting on the forum would result in posts being removed if you complained of any type of fault. That's a known fact. Quality of their products, where to start with that... it is made in China for a start... it is quality control checked by persons that have no real idea what the product should actually do... they use the cheapest softest Chinese muck metal alloys available, screws strip and bind, alloy surfaces and components rust because of the high ferous metals content of cheap alloys they used.... Their quick releases are an absolute joke, flex and play in there, not quick to remove, common connection issues, snapped pins... it was all too common. Google it. Their wheels are often out of round and also flex a lot more than the race quality they suggest them to be... Software and drivers? Only took 4 years to get the DD1/2 to do half of what they said it should... Force feedback was notchy and grainy as hell, and i never realised just how terrible that really was til i got a Simucube, which i might add was cheaper here than my DD1 and more powerful... None of the top guys streaming use Fanatec, Dave Cam, Jardier, Jimmy Broadbent, the list goes on, and every one of them moved on. They simply don't say much because A they were getting it free, and B they are sponsored to support the products.
I am a victim/survivor of the Fanatec Black Friday Fiasco 2023. It took 4 months for my order to arrive. I received no reply to my support inquiries, and almost zero communication along the way. Their products are decent, not junk imo. But there are equal, if not better, options out there which are from companies that know how customer service works. That being said, I hope tm21 enjoys the wheel base. From what I have heard it's pretty good.
I have never had any problems with the gear i have bought except a broken joystick on the GT DD Pro wheel wich Fanatec fixed and returned to me on warranty within 3 weeks in the middle of the Black Friday chaos. I have enough equipment for two racing rigs with them. DD Pro and DD+, several wheels with QR2. Two sets of pedals and a Fanatec Shifter. Im not ignoring those that had a bad experience, they are real, but i think there are much more good than bad with Fanatec. Usually the happy Fanatec customers aren't the ones you are seeing online on Reddit.
This is the first wheelbase ive ever gotten that made me instantly faster. It's the knowing where grip is at all times. You can feel where you sre at when pushing super hard at the limits of grip and it just holds on stronger and longer then other wheelbases which usually loosen giving a slight understeer feeling around some corners yet this wheelbase doesn't do that. It always feels connected it's probably the least understeer feel ive ever had from a wheelbase due to feeling like I can control every little movement of the car. People say power doesn't matter but after experiencing this I think it does. I think the motor being able to hold the condtant torque is what helps the feeling of control. If you don't feel that weight or wheels you don't have that same control it's like every movement gets felt. When looser it feels like you have to over use the wheel. But there is a happy medium with this base yku don't need to use it at 15nm its way to heavy of a 15nm base for most to enjoy that but the power of it helps you use it even at half power. It has this perfect balance of free flowing while sligjtly dampened giving a super polished feel and tons of details. While feeling the weight but also being able to whip it around when needed. I mean its the only base that I've used that I could catch slides on f1 2023 no other wheelbase does the feeling of losing traction you can't feel with other bases. And f1 2023 has always had a slight lag so this wheelbase helps alot tbh. Idk how to explain it better then what I have. The most simple of answers is you feel much more grounded.
Also for those cswv2.5 lovers out there if you get this hit me up in the comments or on my page I found the settings that make it feel identical in weight and feel.
It's 50%50 so wheelbase not 100% like some say 50/50 works really good with this base. It won't over work you ans you still get that weight when needed with all of the detail you could ask for! Turn INT to 2 or 4 depending on what you like it allows for much more raw ffb details to come through then the stock INT at 11.
Totally agree with you on this! Is just feels more intuitive and easier to catch a spin.
I went from the CS V2.5 to the CS DD after 6 years and it is like getting new glasses , it's so crisp and responsive , easier to catch a spin and now find I can get the car to drift in iRacing, I also got myself the Mclaren gt3 wheel . this was a big difference in controlling the car , far better with the wider rim than the V2.5 wheel (that now feels like a toy)
Im not sure if i should get the DD or DD+ coming from the v2.5
@@Phil_3491 I went from v2.5 to DD.....Most of the time I only run the DD at 9-10nm (12nm is too much)...IMO If you do not need the Playstation Chip there is no point in the DD+ and its extra torque, it would be lost on my setup anyway
Overall the CS DD is amazing compared to the v2.5.
Hope that helps
Thank you brother! Needed this!
Glad to help!
I went from DD Pro 8nm to DD+ and i think this upgrade was a great one.
DD Pro is still a good wheel base, but good is he enemy of great. Im keeping my DD Pro as a spare.
I’ve already a t300rs and I hesitate beteween csl dd 8nm or club sport DD 12nm
Or why not DD + but cost a lot
An advice?
Great video, I look forward to seeing your GT7 video.
Thank you!
Just bought the bundle that comes with the blue F1 v2.5. This is the first set up I've ever owned. I didnt want to have to upgrade in the near future so I went with this. And I was right. I went big or went home not settling for any of the older DDs. The CS DD+ is absolutely amazing!
What pedals did you go with?
@DylanBogusz CSLs with tuning and load cell kits. Pretty basic but they're proven.
I was thinking to upgrade from csl dd to this, but I already invested in QR1 for both my wheels. Since the fact that you invested so much money into their ecosystem means nothing to them and they can't give you a good price on qr1 -> qr2 swap + they charge so much extra on this base compared to competition - selling my 2 wheels + booster kit + csl dd and going somewhere else is a better financial choice. I also don't trust them with their quality - plastic QR1 was a trash and the fact they were OK with selling this to 8nm wheelbase should be punishable. Also the C clamp that doesn't work and fragile connectors at the back.
Do you prefer the McLaren wheel over the v2.5x wheel ?
I went from the CS V2.5 to the CS DD after 6 years and it is like getting new glasses , it's so crisp and responsive , easier to catch a spin and now find I can get the car to drift in iRacing, I also got myself the Mclaren gt3 wheel . this was a big difference in controlling the car , far better with the wider rim than the V2.5 wheel (that now feels like a toy
Yes. The formula wheel is just too small for me.
People just dont get it. Ill also never unsrrstand people that turn dampening all the way off and ruin alot of the center forces with spring and dampening turned all the way down. You want those center forces of torwue so when you turn in if it does go loose yku know its grip or understeer snd you can catch it. If the wheel itself is lolser already its harder to tell much harder. So i love center torque it helps me be faster truely. But of course yall can turn dampening down im nust stating the whole turning everything off that just doesnt work like some think. Ypu wont get more detail. Once you get dampening right the details will still come trhough but more counter weight. Sure to much actually dampens things but the right amount is so so nice.
Ive told everyone there is a reason early on dd wheels were all made with higher torque dd is meant to have that its so smooth and it isnt a belt being pulled by a motor creating forces. So its just really different. You need like 10 to 15nm to get a true dd experience and get all of the benefits that comes with.
Other than that the wheelbase works great lol. This after basically completely slamming the csl dd. Mmmmm... Right !
Did I? 😂 Torque was the only thing I wasn't satisfied with with the CSL DD
I honestly can't believe that u think 8nm isn't enough. Real track car steering wheel force is generally between 8 and 11nm.(this is stated by a gt3 driver) What are ur lap time gains with 15nm over 8nm?
He’s just trying to sell it. I’m sure he thought 8nm was plenty until he tried 15nm.
@@TheOfficialRandomGuy Feel free to check my video on CSL DD vs CSL elite - I clearly said it didn't feel any stronger than the 6Nm CSL Elite. And I got into debate with several people. Now I start to think if I got a defective unit.
Yes, the street car I track also falls into that torque range, but when you are actually moving with the vehicle, the response is just so much more clear. I think the problem with sim racing is that everything is felt through the wheel (and some visual cue from the display, for those that does not have a motion platform), I do think I need a stronger wheelbase to get that level of granularity. BTW in the video I mentioned it was set to 85%, which translate to 12.75Nm, and I thought that was sufficient. I got the 15Nm version because I need PS compatibility. If that's not important, I would agree that 12Nm should be sufficient. And no, 8Nm is not enough if you ask me. And just like everything else - I would totally expect people to have different opinions.
@@TheOfficialRandomGuy It is not about max torque, it is about slew rate - how fast those Nm can be delivered, how fast = precise motor can change directions (on stiff GT3 and formula cars).
Torque specs on old FF bases are loose, slew rate is unknown. More slew rate = better, while 10Nm is sweet spot (limit) most pro-simraces are settled at.
The comparison is unfair, CSL DD should have been compared to regular ClubSport DD.
Finally a comment that makes sense. It’s funny how we can all get sucked in. I never wish for more torque from my CSL DD and it’s set at 80%. Just get the settings right. I buy as little from FANATEC as possible after my experience with quality and service. A VERY long and painful journey
Please correct the video title, it's the Clubsport DD+ (you missed the +) 😎
BTW I have the GT DD Extreme bundle, and also the McLaren GT3 V2 wheel, and they are awesome 😁😁😁 the McLaren wheel also works with the Crew Motorfest (the GT Extreme wheel has a bug with that game on both PS5 and PC).
Haha good catch! Thanks for the note!
I have the Clubsport Wheelbase 2.5 had it for 5 years now, and I am debating between the DD1 podium and the DD+.. any advice?
dont get fanatec
I'd get the DD+ because it's much newer and I need PS compatibility. Plus 15Nm is more than enough torque for me.
I’ve already a t300rs and I hesitate beteween csl dd 8nm or club sport DD 12nm
Or why not DD + but cost a lot
An advice?
Clubsport vs CSL, I'd go with clubsport in a heartbeat. DD+ depends on whether you need PS comparibility. I'd say 12Nm is sufficient for anything non-F1. I have DD+ for compatibility, I don't even run it at 100% FFB.
Comparing 230 euro wheelbase to 1k one, I sure hope so there's going to be a massive difference lol
Not sure where you got the number from, even the cheapest CSL DD costs more than that. The PS compatible version of CSL DD costs $600, and the PS compatible CS DD costs $1000, the price difference is $400. And yes, to me the additional torque is worth that price difference.
Csl DD cost 200 when bought as r2r bundle + 30 euro for AliExpress boost kit.
Yea, I'm not comparing ps versions though, rather just pc to pc
If you still own both, how many centimeters lower is the power connector at the clubsport DD compared to CSL DD?
it's lower by ~3 centimeters.
@@TrackRabbitSimRacing
Thanks
Does the 15nm come with axial motor or?
Sorry I do not understand this question.
can you use is for ps aswell because you can buy steering wheel and pedals from ps but not a wheelbase
(pls react it depends if im gonna buy it or not.)
PS compatibility follows the wheelbase. You can use any wheel/pedal with it.
What qr2 version you using?
CSL DD is only compatible with the Type-C base-side.
Which one lasted longest before failures and glitches?
It should be Junk Vs Junk for those that love to throw away money on false claims and overpriced cheap equipment with no quality control made by a company that provides no customer support after sales.
The internet is fairly well up to speed on just how crap Fanatec is now, no one should be buying this junk with better options out there.
Lool you don't know tf you are saying. Fanatec has huge problems with shipling en customer service but their quality is good. Really good. There is a reason their podium wheel base is one of the most used by esporters but zure we will listen to you over them ;)
@@pedramr34 i do know VERY well what i am saying, after going through 3 DD1s before i had one that was somewhat acceptable in terms of function, and didn't randomly stop working or randomly lose connection to the wheel requiring the wheel to have to be taken off and put back on to correct it, which was a fairly common issue.
Being the fanboy you are, you'd know most esporters using anything from Fanatec are doing so because they're getting it free, and they're sponsored. That's a known fact.
Their forum was rife with complaints being quickly deleted years ago, their customer support was pretty much not even there, and posting on the forum would result in posts being removed if you complained of any type of fault. That's a known fact.
Quality of their products, where to start with that... it is made in China for a start... it is quality control checked by persons that have no real idea what the product should actually do... they use the cheapest softest Chinese muck metal alloys available, screws strip and bind, alloy surfaces and components rust because of the high ferous metals content of cheap alloys they used....
Their quick releases are an absolute joke, flex and play in there, not quick to remove, common connection issues, snapped pins... it was all too common. Google it. Their wheels are often out of round and also flex a lot more than the race quality they suggest them to be...
Software and drivers? Only took 4 years to get the DD1/2 to do half of what they said it should...
Force feedback was notchy and grainy as hell, and i never realised just how terrible that really was til i got a Simucube, which i might add was cheaper here than my DD1 and more powerful...
None of the top guys streaming use Fanatec, Dave Cam, Jardier, Jimmy Broadbent, the list goes on, and every one of them moved on.
They simply don't say much because A they were getting it free, and B they are sponsored to support the products.
I am a victim/survivor of the Fanatec Black Friday Fiasco 2023. It took 4 months for my order to arrive. I received no reply to my support inquiries, and almost zero communication along the way. Their products are decent, not junk imo. But there are equal, if not better, options out there which are from companies that know how customer service works. That being said, I hope tm21 enjoys the wheel base. From what I have heard it's pretty good.
Their products are fine. I also have a CSL DD without any problems. It's just that they don't reply to emails at alll.
I have never had any problems with the gear i have bought except a broken joystick on the GT DD Pro wheel wich Fanatec fixed and returned to me on warranty within 3 weeks in the middle of the Black Friday chaos.
I have enough equipment for two racing rigs with them. DD Pro and DD+, several wheels with QR2. Two sets of pedals and a Fanatec Shifter.
Im not ignoring those that had a bad experience, they are real, but i think there are much more good than bad with Fanatec.
Usually the happy Fanatec customers aren't the ones you are seeing online on Reddit.