These guys are going to take over. The D4 is friggin amazing. Hands down the best budget printers on the market. So good that theyre already completely sold out....creality should take some notes
Thank you for the video. Just got my Mingda D3 Pro but my bed levelling isn't like yours, I have a big gap in the corners and now way is the level wheels going to close it! They only appear to make it bigger. The D3 Test file just wraps the filament round the nozzle. I am a newbie on to a bad start!
Update! My Mingda Rock 3 Pro printer was built at 4:21 PM before an Epic (WooHoo!!!) four-day weekend, inspected and packed at 8:07 AM after the epic (hmrmph...) four-day weekend. Of course it's a little rough! * The Rock 3 Pro (a dressed up D3!) has Z-banding mitigation, but it was installed poorly! The Z-nuts have anti-backlash split-nuts (yay!), Z-screw synchro-belt, (yay!), Z-nuts mounted to sliding plate bearings that isolate Z-screw wobble from the gantry (yay!) and heavy duty vertical members (yay!). Should have been groovy...was other. The brackets that hold the X-axis rail to the 'wobble-blocks' has a folded flange...the flanges on the left and right brackets aren't parallel to anything in the printer, or each other! I had to shim the wobble-blocks to the flanges to get it working right. The sliding plate bearings must be parallel to each other, parallel to the X/Y plane of the printer and perpendicular to the Z-screws! The flanges were nearly 5 degrees out of plane in the worst offending axis! This tilt forces the sliding plate bearings to bind at one corner or edge; when the Z-screw wobbles, the plate pivots at the binding point! As the plate pivots, it rotates. The Z-nut mounted to the plate is rotating relative to the Z-screw, which induced a ferocious Z-wobble that is worse on one side. I 'bedded' the wobble-blocks to the flanges using a 3mm drill and some original J-B Weld epoxy. Not the fast-set, the 24 hour kind! Look up 'bedding a rifle action' for more information about how to make a precise, repeatable and durable fit between parts that were manufactured out of alignment. After a modest number of fixes, it is now the best (out of 6!) printers that I have owned. * I will be posting "Mingda Field Service Kit #1" on Thingiverse this week (today is 6/7/2021). It's a collection of fine-tuning parts and procedures for to making a great printer to be more bettterful. 1) Actual Newton (or Pounds or Kilograms or Grains...) direct reading belt tension gauge. Endogenously sourced tension springs Permanent bed leveling procedure 2) Y-axis idler-bearing stabilizer/husher (internal) Idler bearing device is mounted on thin sheet metal panel that acted as loud speaker, panel tilted under proper belt tension. It howled like a wounded beast at certain stepper-rates and the belt was always running against one flange. 3) Y-motor stabilizer/husher (internal and external) Same issue as the idler, not as bad. 4) Filament run-out sensor mounting bracket. Now you can use it and print tall! Filament feed is from side. Never liked having a spool overhead. 5) Hangers for lighting Optional, requires cutting filament spool hanger 6) Extruder stabilizer bracket The extruder wiggles on its bracket; thin metal and relatively heavy motor. The bracket reduced X-axis ringing a lot! Needs extra long 3mm screw or brass rod and 3mm die set. 7) Parts cooling nozzle and mounting bracket Evolving. Newest feature is 'air-knife' nozzle pattern...uses induced flow to amplify air delivery.
You posted this video 50 min ago. The Amazon link you provide takes you to a product that is "currently unavailable". And the product has 3 one star reviews...am I missing something here? That being said I do believe this to be a very good setup walk through/tutorial for setting up this style of printer (I have Sidewinder X1 v4). So thank you for that. But it appears the printer isn't quite ready for retail distribution. One of the reviews went into great detail regarding issues with the printer and lack of proper customer support.
It's does available on amazon.com, make sure your address is a USA address. are you in Europe? we have user community on facebook and after-sales service team now. thanks for your advice.
The bed build size is about on par with the Creality CR 10 which is nice. I dont like how that heated bed has no insulation however. I agree with Andrew Hayes that the filament run out sensor is too far from the hot end for my liking. Closer would be preferred. Also it only worked once which is not ideal. That motor shaft with a bent shaft is somehow got past Q/A but that is on the fault of the factory that made it. I like the lcd screen. The internals look good. The magnetic bed sheet is very nice. The printer is not loud per se but I have heard even more quiet printers out of the box. All the negatives are fixable by Mingda. Just needs a little more refining. I would be curious as to how good Mingda's customer support is. This is an area they could out do Creality if they want to stand out since Creality's support is average IMHO. Prusa for example has very good customer support and when you have all these same look a like and act alike printers you need something to help you stand out more from the crowd. Features and price are good but companies really need to buff up their customer support. Especially if they want to pull in those new to 3D printing.
thank you for the objective opinion, we really appreciate that. we will continue to improve our customer service, we have been committed to providing excellent service. thank you!
The hotend is an E3d knockoff and the levelling sensor is an Antclabs BL Touch knockoff, the filament runout sensor is in the worst place it could possibly be mounted, the filament is most likely to break between the sensor and the hotend thus rendering the sensor useless. It needs to be mounted as close to the extruder as possible Also, that massive metal casing around the extruder and hotend just adds weight to the carriage and is over-engineered and makes the stepper motor work extra hard, all that is needed is a fan cover that also leads down to the heat block because of these issues I would not purchase this printer which is a pity as this printer could be so much better with a little thought applied to the design
The hotend is not an E3D knock off, it's a makerbot ~Mk8/9/10 style hotend that has been used on a lot of printers. It's not the best but also not the worst. Fundamentally the design works well. This printer has quality control issues but don't be an elitist about non-brand name parts in a $300 printer. Fair point about the added weight to the extruder carriage although I have yet to see someone sell a lightweight direct drive system built into a printer
@@alexandrugabriel1638 the titan aero is similar to the hemera, it's a really good attempt but most of the weight still comes from the motor and no one really sells a printer with either an aero or hemera built in. The best direct drive solution I have seen are remote drive solutions like the zesty nimble and Flex3Drive but again, no one sells a printer with them built in.
I am almost positive the Y axis carriage (bed carriage) is bent, with the z axis motor being bent I'm guessing some shipping damage and poor packaging. This makes me wonder how long it will last in the long run, it's already had a tough beginning of life...
Artillery sidewinder x1 vs mingda d3 pro vs creality cr 10 v3? Which of the three printers would you prefer? Or what other direct drive printer would you prefer? Why is that? Thanks in advance for your answer.
Not sure how I feel about this. Its from a company I've never heard of, which makes me worry about long-term support (both from Mingda and the community - good community support can make a printer live or die!) and the prints seemed meh. I also can't seen it anywhere in the UK. I was really hoping this might be the new Sidewinder X1! But not convinced one bit form this. Great review as always though!
the LED thing is for the screen, as it probably is a BTT TFT35 E3 V3 screen, but with the rotary knob removed. the rotary knob normally on the screen is to switch between Marlin mode and touchscreen mode and to navigate the Marlin menu. kind of unfortunate they left that out but hey, nothing's perfect amirite
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
This is how all reviews should be! Literally makes all other reviews look so bad. Thank for all the amazing reviews.
These guys are going to take over. The D4 is friggin amazing. Hands down the best budget printers on the market. So good that theyre already completely sold out....creality should take some notes
Thank you for the video. Just got my Mingda D3 Pro but my bed levelling isn't like yours, I have a big gap in the corners and now way is the level wheels going to close it! They only appear to make it bigger. The D3 Test file just wraps the filament round the nozzle. I am a newbie on to a bad start!
Update!
My Mingda Rock 3 Pro printer was built at 4:21 PM before an Epic (WooHoo!!!) four-day weekend, inspected and packed at 8:07 AM after the epic (hmrmph...) four-day weekend.
Of course it's a little rough!
*
The Rock 3 Pro (a dressed up D3!) has Z-banding mitigation, but it was installed poorly!
The Z-nuts have anti-backlash split-nuts (yay!), Z-screw synchro-belt, (yay!), Z-nuts mounted to sliding plate bearings that isolate Z-screw wobble from the gantry (yay!) and heavy duty vertical members (yay!).
Should have been groovy...was other.
The brackets that hold the X-axis rail to the 'wobble-blocks' has a folded flange...the flanges on the left and right brackets aren't parallel to anything in the printer, or each other!
I had to shim the wobble-blocks to the flanges to get it working right.
The sliding plate bearings must be parallel to each other, parallel to the X/Y plane of the printer and perpendicular to the Z-screws!
The flanges were nearly 5 degrees out of plane in the worst offending axis!
This tilt forces the sliding plate bearings to bind at one corner or edge; when the Z-screw wobbles, the plate pivots at the binding point!
As the plate pivots, it rotates.
The Z-nut mounted to the plate is rotating relative to the Z-screw, which induced a ferocious Z-wobble that is worse on one side.
I 'bedded' the wobble-blocks to the flanges using a 3mm drill and some original J-B Weld epoxy.
Not the fast-set, the 24 hour kind!
Look up 'bedding a rifle action' for more information about how to make a precise, repeatable and durable fit between parts that were manufactured out of alignment.
After a modest number of fixes, it is now the best (out of 6!) printers that I have owned.
*
I will be posting "Mingda Field Service Kit #1" on Thingiverse this week (today is 6/7/2021).
It's a collection of fine-tuning parts and procedures for to making a great printer to be more bettterful.
1) Actual Newton (or Pounds or Kilograms or Grains...) direct reading belt tension gauge.
Endogenously sourced tension springs
Permanent bed leveling procedure
2) Y-axis idler-bearing stabilizer/husher (internal)
Idler bearing device is mounted on thin sheet metal panel that acted as loud speaker, panel tilted under proper belt tension.
It howled like a wounded beast at certain stepper-rates and the belt was always running against one flange.
3) Y-motor stabilizer/husher (internal and external)
Same issue as the idler, not as bad.
4) Filament run-out sensor mounting bracket.
Now you can use it and print tall! Filament feed is from side.
Never liked having a spool overhead.
5) Hangers for lighting
Optional, requires cutting filament spool hanger
6) Extruder stabilizer bracket
The extruder wiggles on its bracket; thin metal and relatively heavy motor. The bracket reduced X-axis ringing a lot!
Needs extra long 3mm screw or brass rod and 3mm die set.
7) Parts cooling nozzle and mounting bracket
Evolving. Newest feature is 'air-knife' nozzle pattern...uses induced flow to amplify air delivery.
Videos are awesome Vlad.
You posted this video 50 min ago. The Amazon link you provide takes you to a product that is "currently unavailable". And the product has 3 one star reviews...am I missing something here?
That being said I do believe this to be a very good setup walk through/tutorial for setting up this style of printer (I have Sidewinder X1 v4). So thank you for that. But it appears the printer isn't quite ready for retail distribution. One of the reviews went into great detail regarding issues with the printer and lack of proper customer support.
It's does available on amazon.com, make sure your address is a USA address. are you in Europe? we have user community on facebook and after-sales service team now. thanks for your advice.
The bed build size is about on par with the Creality CR 10 which is nice. I dont like how that heated bed has no insulation however. I agree with Andrew Hayes that the filament run out sensor is too far from the hot end for my liking. Closer would be preferred. Also it only worked once which is not ideal. That motor shaft with a bent shaft is somehow got past Q/A but that is on the fault of the factory that made it. I like the lcd screen. The internals look good. The magnetic bed sheet is very nice. The printer is not loud per se but I have heard even more quiet printers out of the box. All the negatives are fixable by Mingda. Just needs a little more refining. I would be curious as to how good Mingda's customer support is. This is an area they could out do Creality if they want to stand out since Creality's support is average IMHO. Prusa for example has very good customer support and when you have all these same look a like and act alike printers you need something to help you stand out more from the crowd. Features and price are good but companies really need to buff up their customer support. Especially if they want to pull in those new to 3D printing.
thank you for the objective opinion, we really appreciate that. we will continue to improve our customer service, we have been committed to providing excellent service. thank you!
The hotend is an E3d knockoff and the levelling sensor is an Antclabs BL Touch knockoff, the filament runout sensor is in the worst place it could possibly be mounted, the filament is most likely to break between the sensor and the hotend thus rendering the sensor useless. It needs to be mounted as close to the extruder as possible
Also, that massive metal casing around the extruder and hotend just adds weight to the carriage and is over-engineered and makes the stepper motor work extra hard, all that is needed is a fan cover that also leads down to the heat block because of these issues I would not purchase this printer which is a pity as this printer could be so much better with a little thought applied to the design
The hotend is not an E3D knock off, it's a makerbot ~Mk8/9/10 style hotend that has been used on a lot of printers. It's not the best but also not the worst. Fundamentally the design works well.
This printer has quality control issues but don't be an elitist about non-brand name parts in a $300 printer.
Fair point about the added weight to the extruder carriage although I have yet to see someone sell a lightweight direct drive system built into a printer
@@Bajicoy what about the titan aero ( alike")direct drive,it is light weight ( on sidewinder x1)
@@alexandrugabriel1638 the titan aero is similar to the hemera, it's a really good attempt but most of the weight still comes from the motor and no one really sells a printer with either an aero or hemera built in. The best direct drive solution I have seen are remote drive solutions like the zesty nimble and Flex3Drive but again, no one sells a printer with them built in.
The comment about the bl touch is just silly. The whole point is that it moves out of the way while printing
@@Bajicoy thx for the replay :D
I am almost positive the Y axis carriage (bed carriage) is bent, with the z axis motor being bent I'm guessing some shipping damage and poor packaging. This makes me wonder how long it will last in the long run, it's already had a tough beginning of life...
Artillery sidewinder x1 vs mingda d3 pro vs creality cr 10 v3? Which of the three printers would you prefer? Or what other direct drive printer would you prefer? Why is that? Thanks in advance for your answer.
Wish you would add the links to your prints you do.
I have the CR10s and I set my Nozzle temp 219c and bed 60c makes my prints very good,
Not sure how I feel about this. Its from a company I've never heard of, which makes me worry about long-term support (both from Mingda and the community - good community support can make a printer live or die!) and the prints seemed meh. I also can't seen it anywhere in the UK. I was really hoping this might be the new Sidewinder X1! But not convinced one bit form this. Great review as always though!
the LED thing is for the screen, as it probably is a BTT TFT35 E3 V3 screen, but with the rotary knob removed.
the rotary knob normally on the screen is to switch between Marlin mode and touchscreen mode and to navigate the Marlin menu. kind of unfortunate they left that out but hey, nothing's perfect amirite
nice video! thanks for your share. you are really professional on 3D printing
What large printer would you recommend?
Why do all these big printer reviews seem to print stuff you could print on a ender 3.
Did you see the amount of filament they sent him? Lol
only 2 in stock and cant send to Australia
Please do Creality Ender 6 . Is selling on Banggood and AliExpress.
The unboxing alone makes me doubt the quality of this printer.
this guy barely says anything negative about most of his printers because he was probably sent all these printers for free in return for a good review
I try to give every printer a fair chance, you never know where the next creality killer will come from🤔
yep I take his reviews with grain of salt after I get burnt on that Tron XY 2
👌👍
Huh, that’s pretty neat
Heh, RBG printer. Definitely for gamers
If it worked
Andrew Hayes this is true
❤️
Just stick with Ender
is this printer best than ender?
I'm confused what the best for me
I wanted to get one before i seen the assembling of it ,,,,No thank you
That Benchy look godawful. My ender 3 pro prints it pretty much spotless with standard cura setting.
Very bad review