@@ChrisRiley perfect, I did just that to my extruder motor because it was VERY inconsistent. Upped the current and it's now extruding perfectly. Thanks again
...and this is what makes this channel stands out from the crowd, honest and straightforward, clear and detailed information, practical tips, covering common hardware that almost everyone in the community is using. and most important, no one is trying to sell you things ;-D Nice one Chris!!!
This is the best Mingda D2 review out there, honest, technical and well put together. I got one of these last year and never put together. At this point I'm not quite sure it will yield good results.
Agreed. I do most of this especially the mechanical checkout before I ever turn on a new printer. It takes a little time and you're anxious to turn on a new printer, but it pays dividends in better first time prints.
Excellent video. This has to be one of the best collections of user level tests to verify proper hardware and software configurations. Video is clear and concise and should help many folks feel more comfortable purchasing this unit (or others) and joining the 3d printing experience.
Thanks for explaining both methods for e steps. You're right that either method will work. Your preferred method is good for the less experienced that have a higher chance of having a leak if they remove/reinstall the nozzle.
Excellent video !!. I like the way you don't look for faults just to complain about the printer manufacturer but look for solutions to make the printer better instead.
I like the two ways you have to tune the extrusion value. The multiplier seems to be the most flexible, you can test it on any filament at any temperature then save it. It's always a good idea to check the simple things like belt tension and if the drive gears are loose. Chris is running!
Thanks Dave, this won't solve every problem, but it should get you close. It's important to remember every slicer does it a bit different. Chris is looking great!
Chris, I am curious if you have had to change the hotend on the Mingda D2, and that is how to reset the printer for the LCD Display, and how can I do that with your next video.
@@ChrisRiley That would be awesome to see. I had to replace mine because of the fact that the original one had a problem with the wiring, and the outside covering of the small wire melted, and then snapped.
Some excellent tips, Chris. Thanks! My Kossel Mini delta has V-rollers, and figuring our correct tension always seemed like a crap shoot. I like your tips about trying to stop the roller.
Hi, good job! I would install blouch/ 3dtouch probe for auto levelling features on mingda d2. I see that motherboard has the z-probe pins. Would you make a video on that? Is marlin firmware required? Thank you very much
Wow! What a plethora of pertinent parameters! Thanks for the extremely detailed but totally understandable (by a relative newbie) explanation of adjustments to check and how to fix things that need fixing. I'm off to install Pronterface and start exploring my Ender 3 V2. Best wishes!!
Is the Line Width in Cura the same thing as default extrusion width in PruserSlicer? I am thinking no as I can run this same test (2 walls, no top layers, no infill) with both slicers going from line width/extrusion width of 0.4, then 0.45, and then 0.5 and I get very different results between the slicers. This is with Flow of 100 in Cura and extrusion multiplier of 1 in PrusaSlicer. Cura would say I'm overextruding and PrusaSlicer would say I'm underextruding if we are shooting for a value of double the line width/extrusion width. If I print out the cube or another object with top layers, it is definitely overextruding so would lean more towards Cura's numbers. Cura 0.4 - 0.863 Prusa 0.4 - 0.783 Cura 0.45 - 0.940 Prusa 0.45 - 0.875 Cura 0.5 - 1.048 Prusa 0.5 - 0.960 As per Prusa's Knowledge Base: "You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm." help.prusa3d.com/en/article/layers-and-perimeters_1748#recommended-thin-wall-thickness If you look under Layers and perimeters > Vertical shells in PrusaSlicer, it will show you the recommended object thin wall thickness which are as follows for 2 lines based on a 0.2 mm layer height: 0.4 - 0.76 mm 0.45 - 0.86 mm 0.5 - 0.96 mm Using those numbers, they would be more in line with the results I am getting in Cura so am going to go with those.
I overlooked the math that was involved with the overlap and I should have explained it. What you are seeing is correct. I will try to go over this again in another video.
Hi Chris, awesome helper video! I personally prefer the method of using the distance of extrusion without any resistance or friction. I pick this one since my first printer was build done from scratch. I had to enter some values into firmware. This was many years ago but it stuck with me, as a consistent method. I prefer to just make my changes to the extrusion multiplier in the slicer. I find there are differences when I change up to larger nozzles. Also, it helps me monitor if there is a change in extrusion on a particular machine. A third method which, which I'm not sure if you mentioned, is to simply adjust the FLOW rate during the print. If I see it could use a bit more, during a print, I just bump it 3-5% as needed. This is helpful if you are printing really large, and don't have the time to reset. Great job as always!
Thank you . I learned something today . Now to DL Pronterface and try this all out . I plan on installing a brass heater core/block and a stainless steel nozzle so I guess I will have to run through the PID tuning again ? I wonder what the changes will be .
After watch this video I definitely know i need to set up my e-step for filaments from different manufactures, not sure what exactly was problem unless I saw a comparison on your prints. Thanks for great tips....
With this video I've learned about PID tuning, AMAZING! But got one question though... I print a lot with TPU, can e-step calibration be done with PLA and use on TPU? Because im getting different results with one or other material..
@@ChrisRiley short answer is best to have multiple printers for each material 😁. I thought so, although I printed few TPU mounts perfectly and without strings while printer was calibrated to PLA. I will only need to PID calibrate it again, as with TPU I also use fan at 100% to avoid warping on a sides. That could also cause bed temperature, but will recalibrate anyway, it only takes few minutes :)
So my d2 will be here Friday and was wondering if a ender 3 flex plate would fit without issue as finding a 230mm is difficult.. love the channel and thankful for your great videos..keep up the great work and be safe..
Once again, great tips Chris, specially the e-steps calculation techniques. I'll try to apply them to one of my printers (CR10 V2) which has giving me not so good results lately (I keep it with big nozzles like 0.8 or 1.0 so that might be triggering some of my not ideal results)
You commented that the squirrel cage fan doesn't put out a lot of air. Its purpose is to push air at a higher pressure than an axial fan for the same volume.. This is important when connected to nozzles or ducting.
Yes, that is correct. However, there are better alternatives that push out more air (such as a 5015 fan blower). Most of these 4010 squirrel fans are good enough, but you can improve ie overhangs by upgrading that fan. I'm more interested in that 4040 fan design, looks like the squirrel fan blocks out all incoming air.
A great conversation. The 4010 works for a lot of printers, it kicks out a lot of air for how thin it is, but the 5015 is a beast! This one could use just a bit more, even if it was a little better duct.
hey Chris, great channel. question I have a D2 and it works great with some tweaks. Prints great. But I have a D4 Pro that showed up last friday, I did a print and it has a layer shift on in the Y axis. so I did everything in this video and no luck, running new updated firmware as well. was wondering if you have any other guidance? thanks oh My z rods are bent as well fixed the best i could have some new ones on the way. would that do it?
Hey Chris. I'm getting really good prints when using 0.2 and lower layer height. But when I tri printing something at 0.28 I get horrible blobs at layer height
Hi great video I'm new to 3d printing im thinking of getting the Mingda 2d im not good with computers im little nervous doing what you do do I need to do that and is there a good beginners printer that u would recommend for beginners Thank you
Hi Chris ! very informative video ! , i heard that you have the firmware source code already , would you consider reprogram it and include some features like , Mesh Bed Levelling ?
Hey Chris just ordered an Epax e10....are you gunna cover resin printers anytime soon? Looks like You've learned to code......Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!
Thanks for this guide, but you skipped over something. You describe two different ways of getting updated firmware, but not what to do with it once you have it. What can I do with bin file from Mingda? They don't explain it either.
Nice video. I calibrate extrusion to nut and bolt geometry. Works like a micrometer with pointers lining up. This also compensates for slicer settings. Thing 3983705
@@ChrisRiley On my Tevo Tornado frame with original glass print bed I had to set the average current for the y axis to 1000mA to prevent layer shifting on fast prints. Since I use TMC5160 drivers the peak current goes even higher than this average value.
Chris I like your video's but some of the terms are confusing LIKE PID and PID Tuning ,,,,,,, I am a total noob to 3d printing do you have a "terms" handbook to explain all of the used terms in your video's please thanks Bob
Take a look at SuperSlicer's filament flow calibration, it gave me better results than the box method. I hope it will give you a better printing results too.
They also emailed it to me after asking. Annoying that they won't put it up on their site under source code...but at least they are technically compliant!
Caused me issues with PID autotune. Used m301 P:18.94 I:1.85 D:48.48 to enter new parameters, then m301 again shows echo: p:0.00 i:0.00 d:0.00. Tried lower case and checked syntax carefully. No worky. Had to retrieve defaults to get some usable numbers back in. Should say... Artillery Sidewinder X1 and using Octoprint terminal..
The two perimeter method as described is not quite correct. In slic3r and prusaslicer, two 0.45mm walls give you a thickness of 0.86mm, it calculates this and displays it in the line "recommended object thin wall thickness for layer height 0.2 and 2 lines 0.86mm" below where you enter the number of perimeters. This is becasue the curved edges of extrusion slightly overlap. You will end up overextruding if you use 0.9mm as the target wall thickness. Not massively, but just enough to make prints look bad. I see words to the effect of "I use the two wall caibration method and then underextrude by a few percent becasue it makes my prints look better" quite often, particularly by printers of detailed minis. If you put the right numbers in you can eliminate some of this guesswork. I was tearing my hair out for weeks becasue vase mode, twin-wall, and superslicer's solid fill flow calibration tests didn't quite match. Some of this was nozzle wear but with a new nozzle i had solid fill mathcing vase mode and stumbled on the the extrusion overlap issue. It's explained in the spacing paths section here manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math It is my understanding that cura currently spaces walls apart by their thickness, so two 0.45mm walls are 0.90mm but the new slicing engine currently in beta behaves more like slic3r in this respect, but I have not tested this. Hope this helps
I have a question... How tight should rollers be? I always went with crank them down... But i honestly don't believe thats right anymore. Due to going through a set of idlers on my ender 3... But i never had that issue in the first printer I had with them.
I see you explained it in the video. Ive recently went with the method of try to spin the wheels. Once you can sorta slide them on the bar then you go a little tighter.
Thanks mate, you just made my printer work MUCH BETTER. One question, would you recommend upping the voltage to the other motors too?
Only if you are having issue, if you are not seeing skips, there is no need to increase it.
@@ChrisRiley perfect, I did just that to my extruder motor because it was VERY inconsistent. Upped the current and it's now extruding perfectly.
Thanks again
...and this is what makes this channel stands out from the crowd, honest and straightforward, clear and detailed information, practical tips, covering common hardware that almost everyone in the community is using. and most important, no one is trying to sell you things ;-D Nice one Chris!!!
Thank you!
This is the best Mingda D2 review out there, honest, technical and well put together. I got one of these last year and never put together. At this point I'm not quite sure it will yield good results.
Thank you
Great as always Chris. This is very useful even if you are a seasoned maker. Sometimes we get frustrated and skip steps. Reminders are always welcome.
Agreed. I do most of this especially the mechanical checkout before I ever turn on a new printer. It takes a little time and you're anxious to turn on a new printer, but it pays dividends in better first time prints.
Very true!
I have watched a ton of trouble shooting videos this is by and far the most comprehensive I have seen, amazing video
Thank you
your vids are great man. so much info everyone else skips over. found you because of your octoprint on pc vid. Thanks a ton for that one.
Glad to help!
The explanation of extrusion steps and multiplier was super useful on top of the rest, great video as usual!
Great to hear!
Excellent video. This has to be one of the best collections of user level tests to verify proper hardware and software configurations. Video is clear and concise and should help many folks feel more comfortable purchasing this unit (or others) and joining the 3d printing experience.
Thank you
Thanks for explaining both methods for e steps. You're right that either method will work. Your preferred method is good for the less experienced that have a higher chance of having a leak if they remove/reinstall the nozzle.
I think noob is a bit harsh, but I get what you're saying.
@@ChrisRiley I guess it means different things to different people. I meant no disrespect to anyone. We all started from zero or close to it.
Excellent video !!. I like the way you don't look for faults just to complain about the printer manufacturer but look for solutions to make the printer better instead.
Wow, thank you for the kind words. A lot of these machines just need a little love. ❤
Yet another great video. Always learning from the master. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
So nice of you, thanks for watching
I like the two ways you have to tune the extrusion value. The multiplier seems to be the most flexible, you can test it on any filament at any temperature then save it. It's always a good idea to check the simple things like belt tension and if the drive gears are loose. Chris is running!
Thanks Dave, this won't solve every problem, but it should get you close. It's important to remember every slicer does it a bit different. Chris is looking great!
Hi Chris you made a video on the mingda d2, and my question would be kind to blur the marlin 2.0.9.1 please answer me. TO
Hey Dave, I'm not sure what you mean?
FANTASTIC Video Chris... definitely saving and using it over the weekend while I re-tune one of my machines
Sounds great!
Chris, I am curious if you have had to change the hotend on the Mingda D2, and that is how to reset the printer for the LCD Display, and how can I do that with your next video.
Hey, no, I have using the stock hotend. We can look at installing others and making changes from the LCD in the next video.
@@ChrisRiley That would be awesome to see. I had to replace mine because of the fact that the original one had a problem with the wiring, and the outside covering of the small wire melted, and then snapped.
Some excellent tips, Chris. Thanks! My Kossel Mini delta has V-rollers, and figuring our correct tension always seemed like a crap shoot. I like your tips about trying to stop the roller.
Thanks John, it's always seem to work for me, but it is still a bit of a crap shoot. lol
Hi, good job! I would install blouch/ 3dtouch probe for auto levelling features on mingda d2. I see that motherboard has the z-probe pins. Would you make a video on that? Is marlin firmware required? Thank you very much
Hi, nice question. Follow
I will check it out and see what needs to be done.
@@ChrisRiley Great!
@@ChrisRiley Any hope of having a video on that? My bltouch is on its way. Merci!
@@ChrisRiley yeah, I have 3 of these machines, would love to see a video on BLTouch
a brilliant and insightful walk through - thanks a lot, Chris!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Wow! What a plethora of pertinent parameters! Thanks for the extremely detailed but totally understandable (by a relative newbie) explanation of adjustments to check and how to fix things that need fixing. I'm off to install Pronterface and start exploring my Ender 3 V2. Best wishes!!
Yay! I'm glad it was helpful. Good luck with your projects
What a fantastic video, thank you so much. This is the most comprehensive D2 tune out there.
Glad you liked it!
Is the Line Width in Cura the same thing as default extrusion width in PruserSlicer? I am thinking no as I can run this same test (2 walls, no top layers, no infill) with both slicers going from line width/extrusion width of 0.4, then 0.45, and then 0.5 and I get very different results between the slicers. This is with Flow of 100 in Cura and extrusion multiplier of 1 in PrusaSlicer. Cura would say I'm overextruding and PrusaSlicer would say I'm underextruding if we are shooting for a value of double the line width/extrusion width. If I print out the cube or another object with top layers, it is definitely overextruding so would lean more towards Cura's numbers.
Cura 0.4 - 0.863
Prusa 0.4 - 0.783
Cura 0.45 - 0.940
Prusa 0.45 - 0.875
Cura 0.5 - 1.048
Prusa 0.5 - 0.960
As per Prusa's Knowledge Base: "You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm."
help.prusa3d.com/en/article/layers-and-perimeters_1748#recommended-thin-wall-thickness
If you look under Layers and perimeters > Vertical shells in PrusaSlicer, it will show you the recommended object thin wall thickness which are as follows for 2 lines based on a 0.2 mm layer height:
0.4 - 0.76 mm
0.45 - 0.86 mm
0.5 - 0.96 mm
Using those numbers, they would be more in line with the results I am getting in Cura so am going to go with those.
I overlooked the math that was involved with the overlap and I should have explained it. What you are seeing is correct. I will try to go over this again in another video.
@@ChrisRiley That would be great. I have printed out more calibration prints than I would like to admit, lol.
Hi Chris, awesome helper video! I personally prefer the method of using the distance of extrusion without any resistance or friction. I pick this one since my first printer was build done from scratch. I had to enter some values into firmware. This was many years ago but it stuck with me, as a consistent method. I prefer to just make my changes to the extrusion multiplier in the slicer. I find there are differences when I change up to larger nozzles. Also, it helps me monitor if there is a change in extrusion on a particular machine. A third method which, which I'm not sure if you mentioned, is to simply adjust the FLOW rate during the print. If I see it could use a bit more, during a print, I just bump it 3-5% as needed. This is helpful if you are printing really large, and don't have the time to reset. Great job as always!
Thanks for the tips!
Thank you . I learned something today . Now to DL Pronterface and try this all out . I plan on installing a brass heater core/block and a stainless steel nozzle so I guess I will have to run through the PID tuning again ? I wonder what the changes will be .
Hey, yes, probably a good idea to re-run the PID tune after those changes. It will be able to hold heat better after the upgrade.
After watch this video I definitely know i need to set up my e-step for filaments from different manufactures,
not sure what exactly was problem unless I saw a comparison on your prints. Thanks for great tips....
Great, glad to help.
With this video I've learned about PID tuning, AMAZING! But got one question though... I print a lot with TPU, can e-step calibration be done with PLA and use on TPU? Because im getting different results with one or other material..
I would tune each one of them separately. TPU is going to need to be tuned going a lot slower.
@@ChrisRiley short answer is best to have multiple printers for each material 😁. I thought so, although I printed few TPU mounts perfectly and without strings while printer was calibrated to PLA. I will only need to PID calibrate it again, as with TPU I also use fan at 100% to avoid warping on a sides. That could also cause bed temperature, but will recalibrate anyway, it only takes few minutes :)
One of the best videos made. Should be called do this every few months...great stuff!
Wow, thanks!
So my d2 will be here Friday and was wondering if a ender 3 flex plate would fit without issue as finding a 230mm is difficult.. love the channel and thankful for your great videos..keep up the great work and be safe..
The Ender 3 is really about 235x235, so it should fit.
Once again, great tips Chris, specially the e-steps calculation techniques. I'll try to apply them to one of my printers (CR10 V2) which has giving me not so good results lately (I keep it with big nozzles like 0.8 or 1.0 so that might be triggering some of my not ideal results)
Thanks! Every slicer does this a bit different, so check your overlap and extrusion width settings closely.
where can I find the newest firmware for the printer? they dont have it on the website anymore
Send this an email and request it. Let me know if they don't come back and I can try and poke them support@3dmingda.com
Thanks man. I bought the Rock 3 and I didn't even think about the currents on the stepper motors.
Glad I could help, thanks for watching.
Great video! This is the info I need to take my prints to the next level. Thanks Chris!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you
Excellent tip on the modifier, thx Chris!
Thanks, I'm here to help
You commented that the squirrel cage fan doesn't put out a lot of air. Its purpose is to push air at a higher pressure than an axial fan for the same volume.. This is important when connected to nozzles or ducting.
Yes, that is correct. However, there are better alternatives that push out more air (such as a 5015 fan blower). Most of these 4010 squirrel fans are good enough, but you can improve ie overhangs by upgrading that fan.
I'm more interested in that 4040 fan design, looks like the squirrel fan blocks out all incoming air.
A great conversation. The 4010 works for a lot of printers, it kicks out a lot of air for how thin it is, but the 5015 is a beast! This one could use just a bit more, even if it was a little better duct.
hey Chris, great channel. question I have a D2 and it works great with some tweaks. Prints great. But I have a D4 Pro that showed up last friday, I did a print and it has a layer shift on in the Y axis. so I did everything in this video and no luck, running new updated firmware as well. was wondering if you have any other guidance? thanks oh My z rods are bent as well fixed the best i could have some new ones on the way. would that do it?
First thing I would do after a pully check is crank up the current. Run a M906 Y800 and see if the higher current gets rid of it.
@@ChrisRiley ok thanks i'll give that a try in 5 mins. Thank you chris.
Would it automatically update the PID values if we use U1 parameter?
It depends on which Marlin version you have. Some of these machines it seems to work, others not. I usually check with the m301 just to be safe.
You are right, it would be problematic with an older marlin version.
Good stuff sir ! Have you played with Auto Z align yet ? i have it goin on my AM8 and Ender 3 Pro ( with dual Z upgrade) and it works great !
I use it on a few machines. I think I will try it on the Geeetech rebuild and do some how to.
Hi Chris, Nice video! thanks for sharing
Thanks Matthew for watching the video!
Hey Chris. I'm getting really good prints when using 0.2 and lower layer height. But when I tri printing something at 0.28 I get horrible blobs at layer height
The extruder might not be able to keep up with the extra plastic.
Those tweaks can be used on any similar machines, thank you Chris!!
Yes you can! Thanks
is it possible to use klipper with this printer?
I think you can use it on any printer, but I am not really sure, I would consult the github.
Is the bed frame made of acrylic? When the rest of the frame is aluminum or are my eyes deceiving me?
It's a steel sheet, just like on an ender 3 or other printers.
Really need your help got a mingda 2d now I need to add printer to cura but dont know how they dont have it in printer set up
Yep, you will have to contact Mingda, or build it from scratch.
Thank u yes got the Mingda I will. Also looking to get maybe creality cr 10s for cosplay what do u think of it or Artillery sidewinder x1 3d
@@ryankelly7406 I like the X1 because it has direct drive.
Thank u for getting back to me
Great Walk through! Keep it up Chris
Thanks, will do!
Hi great video I'm new to 3d printing im thinking of getting the Mingda 2d im not good with computers im little nervous doing what you do do I need to do that and is there a good beginners printer that u would recommend for beginners Thank you
I would still go with the Ender 3, to save money and make things easier.
Thank you. I’ve learned a lot and you definitely earned a subscription. Looking forward to mare D2 updates. 👍👍😎👍👍
Welcome aboard and thanks for waching!
Great video!
Thanks!
hey chris how do you update the firmware?
With the firmware.bin on the SD card. Best bet is to email mingda to get the file.
they have a new firmware update and i extracted it into an sd card
but nothing happens
Hi Chris ! very informative video ! , i heard that you have the firmware source code already , would you consider reprogram it and include some features like , Mesh Bed Levelling ?
I will consult with Mingda and see what they say, I make updates often. Mine is getting pretty old.
I could have sworn you said, “...and after I did about 30 minutes of drinking...”. :)
Tweaking while drinking??? lol
Hey Chris just ordered an Epax e10....are you gunna cover resin printers anytime soon? Looks like You've learned to code......Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!
Hey Charles, no resin anytime soon. I just don't have a good setup for it.
Great video. Youre a awesome UA-camr!
Thank you so much!
thanks for this video chris! it'll help me tune my Ender 3x even more.
You bet! Thanks
As always, really good information!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi how do u add mingda 2d to cura
You will probably have to build it from scratch.
what is pid and pid tune
It's an algorithm to keep the heating stable. reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning
Please consider making a 3d printer troubleshooting book.
🙂
If I wanted to go for a speed Benchy again, would it be a good idea to bump up the temp 10-15C to make extrusion easier?
Absolutely
Anyone have a link to the customizable firmware?
Here is the one from Mingda. drive.google.com/file/d/1LJ0RQ-VLiVbAHPn3dzFaVSQuiYq6ZCw6/view?usp=sharing
@@ChrisRiley thank you for this! Now to figure out custom TFT buttons ... my Marlin tweaks don't show without a dual mode screen.
Thanks for this guide, but you skipped over something. You describe two different ways of getting updated firmware, but not what to do with it once you have it. What can I do with bin file from Mingda? They don't explain it either.
All you need to do is copy it to your SD card and reboot your printer.
Nice video. I calibrate extrusion to nut and bolt geometry. Works like a micrometer with pointers lining up. This also compensates for slicer settings. Thing 3983705
Great tip! Thanks
580mA? That is an astonishingly low motor current! I thought about 900mA was a common value.
Yeah, that's about as low as you want to go. It just depends on the mass of the carriage. Prusa uses 580 a lot.
@@ChrisRiley On my Tevo Tornado frame with original glass print bed I had to set the average current for the y axis to 1000mA to prevent layer shifting on fast prints. Since I use TMC5160 drivers the peak current goes even higher than this average value.
Chris I like your video's but some of the terms are confusing LIKE PID and PID Tuning ,,,,,,, I am a total noob to 3d printing do you have a "terms" handbook to explain all of the used terms in your video's please thanks Bob
REPRAP forums and wiki are very good. This is also a pretty good quick article. all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-terminology-3d-printing-terms/
Exceptional information! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video man!
Appreciate it!
Take a look at SuperSlicer's filament flow calibration, it gave me better results than the box method.
I hope it will give you a better printing results too.
Thanks for the tip!
Dude your scaring all the beginners away with all that Pronterface PID FW stuff.
Nooooooo
That's a very helpful video end specially what I needed now
Glad it helped, thanks for watching
This was very helpful to me, I just bought a D4
Great to hear!
Hello Christ! Cross you can one day test the BIGTREETECH SKR E3 Turbo Card card, Thank you and have a nice day!
Yes, I will be getting one of those soon.
They also emailed it to me after asking. Annoying that they won't put it up on their site under source code...but at least they are technically compliant!
Someone was saying they are starting a github, so when I find it I will post it.
Caused me issues with PID autotune. Used m301 P:18.94 I:1.85 D:48.48 to enter new parameters, then m301 again shows echo: p:0.00 i:0.00 d:0.00. Tried lower case and checked syntax carefully. No worky. Had to retrieve defaults to get some usable numbers back in. Should say... Artillery Sidewinder X1 and using Octoprint terminal..
m301 P18.94 I1.85 D48.48 no ':' and try again
@@michaelluger2127 Good call, thanks
Thanks for the assist!
Amazing, thanks for all!!!
Thank you too!
Really good job, Thx Man, my Creality is on a Renew
Great! Thanks for watching
Hi Chris , can you share your profile please?
Sure, here you go! drive.google.com/file/d/1zEMCuKPqlBhw49OSVDCOASjwOmRoPLzd/view?usp=sharing
@@ChrisRiley Thank you so much Brother!
Very useful. Thanks
You are welcome, thanks for watching
Subbed! Awesome vid
Awesome thank you!
good job
Thanks
The two perimeter method as described is not quite correct.
In slic3r and prusaslicer, two 0.45mm walls give you a thickness of 0.86mm, it calculates this and displays it in the line "recommended object thin wall thickness for layer height 0.2 and 2 lines 0.86mm" below where you enter the number of perimeters. This is becasue the curved edges of extrusion slightly overlap.
You will end up overextruding if you use 0.9mm as the target wall thickness. Not massively, but just enough to make prints look bad.
I see words to the effect of "I use the two wall caibration method and then underextrude by a few percent becasue it makes my prints look better" quite often, particularly by printers of detailed minis. If you put the right numbers in you can eliminate some of this guesswork.
I was tearing my hair out for weeks becasue vase mode, twin-wall, and superslicer's solid fill flow calibration tests didn't quite match. Some of this was nozzle wear but with a new nozzle i had solid fill mathcing vase mode and stumbled on the the extrusion overlap issue.
It's explained in the spacing paths section here manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math
It is my understanding that cura currently spaces walls apart by their thickness, so two 0.45mm walls are 0.90mm but the new slicing engine currently in beta behaves more like slic3r in this respect, but I have not tested this.
Hope this helps
Thank you for your insight. 🙂
Printers are like any mechanical device. Put 10 in a room and you'll get 12 different behaviors.
Only 12?
Truth!
niiiice!))))
Thanks!
Too much work for an out of the box printer. There are a few issues with these printers. Their professional printer had 1.5 star reviews.
I agree, it's a bit problematic out of the box.
I have a question... How tight should rollers be? I always went with crank them down... But i honestly don't believe thats right anymore. Due to going through a set of idlers on my ender 3... But i never had that issue in the first printer I had with them.
I see you explained it in the video. Ive recently went with the method of try to spin the wheels. Once you can sorta slide them on the bar then you go a little tighter.
You got it!