Those cutters are getting really good. They may be mass produced, but they've perfected them. The ones that came with my Ender 5 Pro are the same and those suckers will cut through anything. Solid core, aluminum, etc.
I hate to say I found this unboxing very helpful- for the sake of returning this product. You hear about under-extrusion issues on these things, but if you're like me and think "well it can't be that bad," it IS. On top of that are just a plethora of strange quirks that aren't mentioned anywhere. If you want to run a gcode, it has to be in the root directory of the card or else the print never starts. If you forget to home between prints, you could easily find your extruders violently jamming together. Even at its price I can't say this printer is worth the hassle, and while it isn't IDEX I've found myself using part of the return to pay for a Bambulab P1P.
Profiles for the other JG printers are in Cura (under the name JGAurora), so I imagine that once this hits retail, they will have a profile in cura. At least ive got my fingers crossed.
They installed TMC2208s in only 2 axis, I assume X and Y leaving both Z and both extruder motors on A4988 drivers which are whiny. At least you can upgrade them which is nice
Man its like I woke up and I find 3d printers ! Thats awesome! Any bradn better then others overall ? I only hear about Prusa MK3 and Ender 5 Pro, if budget is around 1k which one do you recommend?
Thanx for this nice video on the first steps with the printer. It helped me to avoid one failure when connecting all the wires: In the first try, I missed one...
I just ordered the E3D Revo newest hotend. it uses a patented design where the nozzle and heartbreak ar all one unit. so you don't have to heat tighten the hotend. can you comment in a short video about the nozzle plug-N-play design in this printer compared to the E3D Revo? if more companies are coming out with this design I think it warrants a discussion. this easy nozzle change design is the next best evolution in 3D printers. one more thing... if one gets a nozzle clog, I wonder how easy or hard it will be to clean to the nozzle. right now to clean a nozzle clog all I do is untighten the nozzle from the heartbreak, heat up the hotend and use a screw driver or other tool about the same size diameter as the heartbreak and push the filament through. easy.
Hi could you compare this printer to the Tenlog TL-D3 Pro 3D Printer. For me its either one of these, the only difference as far as I'm aware is the glass bed on the TL-D3 and copper wipers on jg maker
Hello Koosh, Tenlog d3 pro is good, but if you compare the price, we have 3 years warranty, and we only have $389 at kickstarter, also we will have pro version later
@@tcroft Yes X1 is a single head so it is easy plus a lot complains that the cable don't have locking on the plugs so a lot of them using hot glue to keep it secured. So it not that perfect like it looks..... At least this one has a locking on the plugs.
If extruder does not move up or down (Z axel) when rotating bolt during “bed leveling” option: you’ll have to play a bit between two menu options (“auto home” and “level corners”) Basically, right after selecting “auto home” rotate this bolt clockwise or counterclockwise quickly enough before it finish returning to main position of “auto home”. Then go to “level corners” and check the result. Repeat as many times as necessary rotating clockwise or counterclockwise the bolt depending on the change in position of extruder during “level corners” option. ------ Explanation: When selecting “auto home” extruder firstly moves up releasing pressure on little sensor button. This button is there to let motors know when to stop landing extruder while going down. Later extruder will go down again and will hit the sensor button. The bolt touches small metal plate and the last one touches sensor button. Extruder stops moving downwards. So if you want extruder (during “leveling corners”) be further from the bed, you’ll have to rotate bolt clockwise during extruder movement in “auto home” menu selection. And otherwise: if you want extruder be closer to the bed, then select “auto home” again and turn the bolt counterclockwise. ----- P.S. if, during rotation of the bolt in “auto home” selection, extruder goes down and suddenly printer starts to wiggle and make wired noise: simply turn the bolt clockwise a few times. Everything is good now. This noise means that you have unscrewed the bolt to much. Bolt is not hiting sensor when extruders are going down. Motors have used all available movement space and reached bottom floor. However they still receive the signal to keep working and are trying to rotate both spirals to move extruders down. Simply rotate the bolt clockwise
Thanks for the overview of this new printer. The nozzles are proprietary so I wonder how much replacement nozzles will cost. I would hope they offer an all metal nozzle for doing high temp filaments. I'm also wondering why with so many thoughtful features it's missing one main one, auto leveling. The UI also lets it down. My US$125 Kingroon KP3 has a nice color touch screen display. Even with it's faults, I may think about investing in this one.
hey, for replacement nozzle kt, it will be very affordable at our official website for our customers, do not worry about that, beside, we have 3 years warranty, for full metal hotend, we are working on that, and al of you guys will get that, for touch screen, our pro version will include that for sure. For ABL, the reason we do not include is our bed leveling system is quite simple enough, u still need to level manually even with able, so lots of user prefer do not have Abl without paying extra money .
Bad experience for me. As expected the fragile ribbons wre a problem out of the box. I one was defective and stuck in the extruder. Printer now wont home, its a brick now.
There are a few reviews of this printer getting out to the YT reviewers now. Its a noisy printer. The fan/s need to be changed out to something more quiet. Those stepper drivers need to be upgraded to 2208 or better. That bed needs to be insulated on the bottom underneath. That screen is really in need of upgrading. Looks like the software needs some firmware upgrades too. When printing in mirror mode the extruders work fine for the most part but if you run them independently they are not as good. Some improvement is needed there. Those hot ends could be better. It wont do the higher temps. Its more for PLA at this point but if you want to do prints that require higher temps they are inadequate. I really like the quick release feature it has for the hot ends. Overall its not a bad printer and has lots of potential it just need more development and tweaks. Nothing that can't be done.
Hello, Bill from JGMaker. for fan, we will upgrade into more quiet fan, and mainboard, we use 32 bit silent board with TMC2208 already, and for bed, we will insulated for sure, this machine is beta machine. For firmware, we are updating now, and as we are open-sourced, we will release our source at our official website after we finish kickstarter project.
Flimsy screen is awful. Should have a real touch screen...Those ribbon cables YUCK !...The other cables for the filament and end stops only just reach. Who still uses the larger SD cards ?....Should have included a BLtouch too...Let's hope this thing prints better than the QC / development departments.
I have a authentic duet 2wifi on my creality cr10s upgraded everything dual authentic hiwin linear rails on y hiwin rails on x bondtech bmg extruder slice engineering copperhead hotend ac mains silicone keenovo bed heater pt 1000 thermistor and I still rather the manuall bed level option I have a genuine bl touch that I don't even use
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
Im kind of blown away by their stock cable management. Looks better than a lot of custom jobs
Thank you for covering even the slicer settings!
I love how easy it is to change the nozzles. No annoying heating up and then wrench it out
Those cutters are getting really good. They may be mass produced, but they've perfected them. The ones that came with my Ender 5 Pro are the same and those suckers will cut through anything. Solid core, aluminum, etc.
I actually cut the hoted brass nozzles tip off with the creality cutters lol
Very helpful. I have had mine for a few years now and only just getting it set up. This was lots of help.
That GoPro Mount on the bed handle though! I hope this thing comes through! Looking forward to learning dual extrusion techniques!
Nice review, a year later do you recommend it?
I hate to say I found this unboxing very helpful- for the sake of returning this product. You hear about under-extrusion issues on these things, but if you're like me and think "well it can't be that bad," it IS. On top of that are just a plethora of strange quirks that aren't mentioned anywhere. If you want to run a gcode, it has to be in the root directory of the card or else the print never starts. If you forget to home between prints, you could easily find your extruders violently jamming together. Even at its price I can't say this printer is worth the hassle, and while it isn't IDEX I've found myself using part of the return to pay for a Bambulab P1P.
Profiles for the other JG printers are in Cura (under the name JGAurora), so I imagine that once this hits retail, they will have a profile in cura. At least ive got my fingers crossed.
They installed TMC2208s in only 2 axis, I assume X and Y leaving both Z and both extruder motors on A4988 drivers which are whiny. At least you can upgrade them which is nice
what do you think about the artist d pro option that was just released
what camera do you use if you dont mind me asking?
Would be a 3d printer suitable to decorate t-shirts?
Man its like I woke up and I find 3d printers ! Thats awesome! Any bradn better then others overall ? I only hear about Prusa MK3 and Ender 5 Pro, if budget is around 1k which one do you recommend?
great review
Thanx for this nice video on the first steps with the printer. It helped me to avoid one failure when connecting all the wires: In the first try, I missed one...
Very informative. Thank you.
How’d u get the printer to English on the screen
Is there a print head for nylon?
The flat flex is a bit tacky looking, but that wire management is lovely
I just ordered the E3D Revo newest hotend. it uses a patented design where the nozzle and heartbreak ar all one unit. so you don't have to heat tighten the hotend. can you comment in a short video about the nozzle plug-N-play design in this printer compared to the E3D Revo? if more companies are coming out with this design I think it warrants a discussion. this easy nozzle change design is the next best evolution in 3D printers. one more thing... if one gets a nozzle clog, I wonder how easy or hard it will be to clean to the nozzle. right now to clean a nozzle clog all I do is untighten the nozzle from the heartbreak, heat up the hotend and use a screw driver or other tool about the same size diameter as the heartbreak and push the filament through. easy.
U are amazing😍👌👍
it has "only" 6 stepper drivers? It use one driver for two Z motors?
Tenlog D3 use 7 drivers.
Good job 👏
Hi could you compare this printer to the Tenlog TL-D3 Pro 3D Printer. For me its either one of these, the only difference as far as I'm aware is the glass bed on the TL-D3 and copper wipers on jg maker
I think JG uses 32 bit while TL uses 8 bit, but they are coming up with an upgrade 16 bit board. I think.
Can you take a look at the tenlog d3 pro, a 700$ IDEX printer with amazing build quality. Just got mine and it comes with 2 year warrenty.
Hello Koosh, Tenlog d3 pro is good, but if you compare the price, we have 3 years warranty, and we only have $389 at kickstarter, also we will have pro version later
@@JGAURORA3dprinter do you jave a bigger size printer?
@@joseruben777 The Artist-D build volume is big enough as a desktop printer, If a bigger one, might be an industrial one?
Your Cables are twisted so they do looking weird
Yeah I thought that, they should learn a thing or two from the Artillery Sidewinder X1
@@tcroft It's not that they came like that. The guy it self twist cables while installing....
@@josephbejm5752 regardless, have a look at the SW X1 cables
@@tcroft Yes X1 is a single head so it is easy plus a lot complains that the cable don't have locking on the plugs so a lot of them using hot glue to keep it secured. So it not that perfect like it looks..... At least this one has a locking on the plugs.
@@josephbejm5752 I've had an SW X1 for over a year and never had an issue, there isn't locks on the cables but they do require force to remove
The right, looking at the video, lifted it's leg
Plase share your prints slt files.Thx
Greetings from Turkey
If extruder does not move up or down (Z axel) when rotating bolt during “bed leveling” option:
you’ll have to play a bit between two menu options (“auto home” and “level corners”)
Basically, right after selecting “auto home” rotate this bolt clockwise or counterclockwise quickly enough before it finish returning to main position of “auto home”. Then go to “level corners” and check the result. Repeat as many times as necessary rotating clockwise or counterclockwise the bolt depending on the change in position of extruder during “level corners” option.
------
Explanation: When selecting “auto home” extruder firstly moves up releasing pressure on little sensor button. This button is there to let motors know when to stop landing extruder while going down. Later extruder will go down again and will hit the sensor button.
The bolt touches small metal plate and the last one touches sensor button. Extruder stops moving downwards.
So if you want extruder (during “leveling corners”) be further from the bed, you’ll have to rotate bolt clockwise during extruder movement in “auto home” menu selection.
And otherwise: if you want extruder be closer to the bed, then select “auto home” again and turn the bolt counterclockwise.
-----
P.S. if, during rotation of the bolt in “auto home” selection, extruder goes down and suddenly printer starts to wiggle and make wired noise: simply turn the bolt clockwise a few times. Everything is good now.
This noise means that you have unscrewed the bolt to much. Bolt is not hiting sensor when extruders are going down. Motors have used all available movement space and reached bottom floor. However they still receive the signal to keep working and are trying to rotate both spirals to move extruders down.
Simply rotate the bolt clockwise
You do not have to manually move the axes around. There is an option in the firmware to move them around to the leveling locations.
Looks more like Copper than bronze!
Hey there i enjoy watching the 3D printers but i want more info from the racing system plz
Great videos Vlad, can you please do a Prusa Mk3 unbox and set-up. Thanks
Yeah when their prices become more down to earth.
Thanks for the overview of this new printer. The nozzles are proprietary so I wonder how much replacement nozzles will cost. I would hope they offer an all metal nozzle for doing high temp filaments. I'm also wondering why with so many thoughtful features it's missing one main one, auto leveling. The UI also lets it down. My US$125 Kingroon KP3 has a nice color touch screen display. Even with it's faults, I may think about investing in this one.
hey, for replacement nozzle kt, it will be very affordable at our official website for our customers, do not worry about that, beside, we have 3 years warranty, for full metal hotend, we are working on that, and al of you guys will get that, for touch screen, our pro version will include that for sure. For ABL, the reason we do not include is our bed leveling system is quite simple enough, u still need to level manually even with able, so lots of user prefer do not have Abl without paying extra money .
Bad experience for me. As expected the fragile ribbons wre a problem out of the box. I one was defective and stuck in the extruder. Printer now wont home, its a brick now.
Nice printer! I'm tempted I just hate the hotends
Link to maker spaceman .stl ? Thanks, love the content!, Never mind, I found it.
www.matterhackers.com/store/l/matterhackers-mascot-phil-a-ment/sk/M6DV4FS2 For others who did not find it :-)
There are a few reviews of this printer getting out to the YT reviewers now. Its a noisy printer. The fan/s need to be changed out to something more quiet. Those stepper drivers need to be upgraded to 2208 or better. That bed needs to be insulated on the bottom underneath. That screen is really in need of upgrading. Looks like the software needs some firmware upgrades too. When printing in mirror mode the extruders work fine for the most part but if you run them independently they are not as good. Some improvement is needed there. Those hot ends could be better. It wont do the higher temps. Its more for PLA at this point but if you want to do prints that require higher temps they are inadequate. I really like the quick release feature it has for the hot ends. Overall its not a bad printer and has lots of potential it just need more development and tweaks. Nothing that can't be done.
Hello, Bill from JGMaker. for fan, we will upgrade into more quiet fan, and mainboard, we use 32 bit silent board with TMC2208 already, and for bed, we will insulated for sure, this machine is beta machine. For firmware, we are updating now, and as we are open-sourced, we will release our source at our official website after we finish kickstarter project.
@@JGAURORA3dprinter Good to know. I think this printer has lots of potential if you work on it a little more.
index????
7
Flimsy screen is awful. Should have a real touch screen...Those ribbon cables YUCK !...The other cables for the filament and end stops only just reach. Who still uses the larger SD cards ?....Should have included a BLtouch too...Let's hope this thing prints better than the QC / development departments.
Love this Idea. But "other than a fault, in dual mode, this is a good print: WTF?
Manual bed leveling is so ghetto.
actually we use 5 point level that is quite easy to level, we will upload a tutorial video at our youtube channel
I'd rather have manual level than auto. So much issue with auto level
I have a authentic duet 2wifi on my creality cr10s upgraded everything dual authentic hiwin linear rails on y hiwin rails on x bondtech bmg extruder slice engineering copperhead hotend ac mains silicone keenovo bed heater pt 1000 thermistor and I still rather the manuall bed level option I have a genuine bl touch that I don't even use
I was intrigued by the thumbnail. Looked interesting. Then I saw the time duration. There are 3 videos here. Too long.