If you sanded the outside edge before you took the plastic off and before engraving then you would be less likely to damage the acrylic. Just ordered my S1 40w today. Can hardly wait to get started. Thanks for this video.
Thanks man, this is the best tip i ever get. It`s so great to skip paint doing this, and the cleaing is so easy.👍👍 I use 250mm/s and 30% power on score, and 300/20 engrave. (4mm clear acryl )
I tried using 45 power and 300 speed, didn't really do anything. not until 80 power and 200 speed did I get anything on the acrylic. this is whith the 20watt version of the S1. should I need go to 80 power for this?
First of all thank you very much. A donation from me for sure. Questions. Can I put a photo on acrylic like a face ? I would only score like you said right ? Also just black paper or can I use chalk paint ? What thickness would be best ? Also a light would be the only to see the scoring
Great video. Thanks. Curious what the reason is to focus on the board and if it matters where you start the kaser to do so or if you just need to place and start it anywhere on the board?
The laser can't see the top of the clear acrylic the beam on 450 NM passes right through so by focusing on the board we are tricking it a bit and its engraving on the back side of it because it can focus and hit the board or paper no problem and since they are so close where the are in contact with each other it works-Hope that makes sense?
Have you by chance tried taping or painting around the outside edge to make the engravings brighter? Paint would give a better spot to grab it to clean when the time comes.
Quick question if you place a wet towel down first and burn the image you wouldnt get the brown marks in the engraving saving you time on cleaning .... just a thought
I got the items that you have and the score came out very nicely. Unfortunately I think Amazon’s vendor changed either the acrylic size or the base size as the acrylic doesn’t fit into the base as it woobles. Just not a tight fit as yours does.
so in fact it is possible to engrave clear acrilyc on a diode laser, even if in this case the engraving ends on the back of the piece, maybe its just about power? its full of videos painting the surface whit a black paint to accieve this in the front, did you thing this is possible whit a 22w diode laser too?
@ have not tried it yet but I also wonder if you used Tempura black paint on the front of the acrylic it that would work I used it on my F1 ultra for glass and it worked great
I engraved a small round mirror with my 10w diode, but looking for ways to back light it or ways to make it fit in one of these bases! Anyone else done this or have suggestions
Great example and art. So no prep of material, no paint, soap, what was your average setting for the burn and I understand it is different. Is because it is a 40w?
Power 23 speed 300 was on score not engrave but you can do either. and yes no prep just a dark back ground and focus has to be on the background not the acrylic
@@cd6941 i don’t own an M1 but I suspect you probably can the M1 is I think a 10 watt machine so I would definitely test it to get the best settings and to see if it will work.
Hello, I tried this on mdf, and it works, but it gets brown soot deep into the engraving and I can't get it all out. What type of wood are you using? It looks textured? Thanks in advance.
The link for "Acrylic in all shapes for the above light " takes me to the Amazon sign in page and when I sign on it just takes me to my account page. Do you have any update on that particular link? Thanks. Do you have a link to the site you purchased those other acrylic pieces from?
@@alidadebruyn36 i don’t have a 10 to test on but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work if you follow what I did and just test to get the settings needed for a 10watt
Yes and thicker but mostly solid color acrylic it’s excellent at cutting black the one it can’t cut at all is clear acrylic it also isn’t great at blue or white I have cut red , yellow, Green, orange and a few other colors and some really cool colors ones with it. Here is a cool site where you can get acrylic that diode laser can cut. I will post the link.
Power 23 speed 300 was on score not engrave but you can do either and it's always good to test your unit they all vary so I would do a material test for the very best settings for you. I recently made another 2 of these the same way with a different design for some more nieces kids
If you are using shop air to dry the acrylic, hopefully you have an oil-less compressor or at least an oil trap in the line. Oil would make a terrible mess of things.
No, I’m sure that you are aware that your shop air is clean. I just wanted to warn folks that may follow your directions that they should be aware of a potential problem.
I would not use Windex on Acrylic/plexiglass. Or at the very least I would test it before using it. Windex is known to haze plexiglass and could ruin the piece.
This is the perfect tutorial! It has worked well for me and I have had 100% success using your method. Thank you very much.
Thanks for letting others know it works I have made a few now for all the kids in my family they love them
great tips on the q tips and sandpaper around the top edge, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
If you sanded the outside edge before you took the plastic off and before engraving then you would be less likely to damage the acrylic. Just ordered my S1 40w today. Can hardly wait to get started. Thanks for this video.
Brilliant tutorial mate, loved it, thank you very much 👍
Hi.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Very informative, and it's been very helpfull with my laser 😊engraving. Cheers.
Thanks man, this is the best tip i ever get. It`s so great to skip paint doing this, and the cleaing is so easy.👍👍
I use 250mm/s and 30% power on score, and 300/20 engrave. (4mm clear acryl )
awesome
Ty. What about lines ? How many do you use
i get my laser tomorrow so this helps :) Thanks.. More tutorials on xtool s1 thanks
Oh your going to love it
Thank you so much for your quick response! unfortunately, it is an xcs file format which I cannot/do not know how to open in lightburn
Sorry I am a total newbie on Light Burn. I just started using it last week so I am slowly figuring it out but have a lot to learn
Import using XCS and export as an SVG
I tried using 45 power and 300 speed, didn't really do anything. not until 80 power and 200 speed did I get anything on the acrylic. this is whith the 20watt version of the S1. should I need go to 80 power for this?
I find that a soft bristled tooth brush works well to clean them and doesn't scratch the acrylic.
thanks I will try that
First of all thank you very much. A donation from me for sure. Questions. Can I put a photo on acrylic like a face ? I would only score like you said right ? Also just black paper or can I use chalk paint ? What thickness would be best ? Also a light would be the only to see the scoring
@@michaeldietz1726
Je suis quel type de papier faut utiliser
Great video. Thanks.
Curious what the reason is to focus on the board and if it matters where you start the kaser to do so or if you just need to place and start it anywhere on the board?
The laser can't see the top of the clear acrylic the beam on 450 NM passes right through so by focusing on the board we are tricking it a bit and its engraving on the back side of it because it can focus and hit the board or paper no problem and since they are so close where the are in contact with each other it works-Hope that makes sense?
Have you by chance tried taping or painting around the outside edge to make the engravings brighter? Paint would give a better spot to grab it to clean when the time comes.
No have not tried that. Just did the sandpaper trick
Quick question if you place a wet towel down first and burn the image you wouldnt get the brown marks in the engraving saving you time on cleaning .... just a thought
I got the items that you have and the score came out very nicely. Unfortunately I think Amazon’s vendor changed either the acrylic size or the base size as the acrylic doesn’t fit into the base as it woobles. Just not a tight fit as yours does.
Scratched acrylic is super easy to fix with some car polish and a buffer.
Hi, thanks for the video. What is the tool you have holding your honey comb? The one in the lower left corner.
ua-cam.com/video/iqaoGxKdFos/v-deo.html
Made a video on it the links are in the description of the video
@@ALXSHARPEN Thanks, I found that one right after I sent that comment to you.
I did this trick. Pretty kool
so in fact it is possible to engrave clear acrilyc on a diode laser, even if in this case the engraving ends on the back of the piece, maybe its just about power? its full of videos painting the surface whit a black paint to accieve this in the front, did you thing this is possible whit a 22w diode laser too?
Yes i was only at power level 23 so you should have no problem doing it on a 22W
@@ALXSHARPEN thanks man
Have you done photos on acrylic ?
@ have not tried it yet but I also wonder if you used Tempura black paint on the front of the acrylic it that would work I used it on my F1 ultra for glass and it worked great
@@ALXSHARPEN thanks a lot!
Nice video. Whit all the care to avoid scratching, how do you package it for transport / shipping?
I did not ship any mine were all gifts to family but you can get special sticky paper that protects it
Awesome job, very helpful. But I missed where did you get the acrylic
The link is in the description of the UA-cam video
Hi, thank you for the video! can you please tell/show me where the file is?
Its on xtools site project site
projects.xtool.com/howtos/4711?Clipboard_Shot&Crypto%20AI%20Staking%20DeFi%20Platform%20UI%20UX%20Performance%20Dashboard%20App&Social_Share
How do you make the picture look like that so that it can be scored?
I engraved a small round mirror with my 10w diode, but looking for ways to back light it or ways to make it fit in one of these bases! Anyone else done this or have suggestions
I just want to make sure my brain processed the visual information correctly… haha! Did you speed up the recording during the engraving process?
I may have just to not have you all fall a sleep
Great example and art. So no prep of material, no paint, soap, what was your average setting for the burn and I understand it is different. Is because it is a 40w?
Power 23 speed 300 was on score not engrave but you can do either. and yes no prep just a dark back ground and focus has to be on the background not the acrylic
Good information! Can this be done with the m1 xtool?
@@cd6941 i don’t own an M1 but I suspect you probably can the M1 is I think a 10 watt machine so I would definitely test it to get the best settings and to see if it will work.
Grazie
Thanks
No problem
How did you get it to engrave perfectly without using black paint behind it?
it's in the video black paper i used mdf because i had no paper but simple plack paper is all you need
Hello, I tried this on mdf, and it works, but it gets brown soot deep into the engraving and I can't get it all out. What type of wood are you using? It looks textured? Thanks in advance.
Black paper works best
The link for "Acrylic in all shapes for the above light " takes me to the Amazon sign in page and when I sign on it just takes me to my account page. Do you have any update on that particular link? Thanks. Do you have a link to the site you purchased those other acrylic pieces from?
I’ll check it out
Fixed
amzn.to/430Ahg5
You talked about putting the link for the unicorn on here where is it
www.designfind.com/howtos/4711?Clipboard_Shot&Crypto%20AI%20Staking%20DeFi%20Platform%20UI%20UX%20Performance%20Dashboard%20App&Social_Share
May I ask what your settings are? I tried 15/450 and it didn't come out very good 😢
projects.xtool.com/howtos/4711
Speed 300 power 23 lpi 100 and it was on score
Thank you
Hi, can you use it on the 10w M1
@@alidadebruyn36 i don’t have a 10 to test on but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work if you follow what I did and just test to get the settings needed for a 10watt
@ thank you. the acrylic comes as a set. What do you recommend I test on please x
Can the S1 40-watt cleanly cut through 2mm of acrylic?
Yes and thicker but mostly solid color acrylic it’s excellent at cutting black the one it can’t cut at all is clear acrylic it also isn’t great at blue or white I have cut red , yellow, Green, orange and a few other colors and some really cool colors ones with it. Here is a cool site where you can get acrylic that diode laser can cut. I will post the link.
refrr.app/nVPJZ5HrSR/77833
great place for cool acrylics that diodes can cut
refrr.app/nVPJZ5HrSR/77833
if you need to cut clear acrylic you need a CO2 laser like this one from Xtool the P2 www.xtool.com/products/xtool-p2-55w-co2-laser-cutter
One down side of CO2 is the weight this is a desk top one and it's around 100 LBS pretty heavy not easy to move around by yourself
What software
What were your settings?
Power 23 speed 300 was on score not engrave but you can do either and it's always good to test your unit they all vary so I would do a material test for the very best settings for you. I recently made another 2 of these the same way with a different design for some more nieces kids
If you are using shop air to dry the acrylic, hopefully you have an oil-less compressor or at least an oil trap in the line. Oil would make a terrible mess of things.
Did you see any oil on it ?
No, I’m sure that you are aware that your shop air is clean. I just wanted to warn folks that may follow your directions that they should be aware of a potential problem.
I would not use Windex on Acrylic/plexiglass. Or at the very least I would test it before using it. Windex is known to haze plexiglass and could ruin the piece.
Worked for me. The do make Acrylic glass cleaner but that mostly for Art work my purpose was to remove the soot
Sorry for the unicorn?