Thank you. I really enjoy these old outboards and boats. I'm glad to be able to spread some of that enjoyment to others through these videos. Thanks for watching!
@@hessranch I did as well. There were LOTS of these motors still in regular use when I was a young kid. They're still out there being used regularly today by some, but the numbers are a whole lot smaller now. The smell of the 2-stroke exhaust holds a certain something that brings back memories. Thanks for watching!
I have a 1957 (I think) 18 HP Evinrude that I've only fired up on the test barrel. My boat is only rated for 17.5 HP max and with my luck I would get caught. I know you've said 18's are your favorites, and I'm beginning to see why. Thanks again for the ride along with an old classic!
The 1957 Evinrude Fastwin would have the script Evinrude logos on the sides. Yes, the 18s are my favorite outboards. 17.5 rounds up to 18, right? LOL. I don't know how strictly they enforce those ratings where you boat. 1/2 hp seems pretty silly, but what do I know? Most of my boats didn't even have the plates in them anymore by the time I got them. My Meyers Aquabird 12WT is the lowest rated boat I own other than my canoe and it is 18hp. Thanks for watching!
The float valve should be able to hold fuel flow against tank pressure once the bowl is full. If it cannot, the float valve needle and seat are most likely either worn or damaged in some way. That said, I also have a '57 Evinrude Fastwin 18hp that will flood the carburetor if tank pressure is left on it when the engine is off. I have rebuilt that carburetor twice with new float, needle, and seat and it still allows fuel past the valve. I need to rebuild it once more to make sure nothing is wrong. I am not sure what is going on, but it should not do that. Thanks for watching!
This one is pretty strong, but most of my 18s run pretty close to this. This one needed a lower unit, tune up parts, and some grass blown put of the cooling system with the garden hose. Other than that, it is a great motor and a pleasure to run. Good luck with yours. Yes, thisnis a 24:1 mix motor. One quart of outboard oil per 6 gallon tank. Thanks for watching!
Greetings. I have a 57 Gale, 56 Evinrude, 55 Johnson - all 25 hp models. They are in various stages of refurbishment. Which is why I get a big kick out of your your posts on the various engines you acquire. It takes time and effort to do that, so thank you! That being said, when you go over the work you’ve done on the units, I notice you don’t mention compression very much (although it’s very possible I’ve missed episodes where you have). Is this because you don’t typically run across low compression issues very often? I ask, because I’m suspicious that a couple of mine might be low. As I recall, they should be around 100 or so? Again, thank you for your contributions toward keeping these great old motors alive. Alex
I have an old one of these that “came with the house”. Other than dust on it I have no idea its operating status. What would an unknown running condition motor like this be worth to someone willing to fix it up?
Yes, I changed it. The white ribbed gripnwas all cracked and looked bad anyway and I am not a fan of that grip. I like the '53-'56 grip very well. I have designed my own tiller grip now that I 3D print out of PETG. I probably still prefer this grip, but I'm quite fond of the grip I designed for 3D printing also. You'll see a number of thise showing up on my motors. Thanks for watching!
Nice job on the motor. I have the same one that my son and I are working on. I'm having trouble finding the Prop shaft seal- 302495. Do you have any idea where I can find one?
Thank you! These are great motors. The prop shaft seal is available from Marineengine.com as well as often on Ebay. They're a little pricey, but they last a long time if you don't get fishing line or something around the prop shaft that ruins it. The other option is to find a bearing head from a '58 and later 5-bolt bushing lower unit (18/20hp) that uses the smaller, less expensive and more available seal. You can also make or have made a reducer bushing to go into the original bearing head to reduce the ID down to take the smaller seal. If you're just going through this motor and your original bearing head is in good condition, I would just pay up for the proper seal and replace it. Be careful not to crack the bearing head seal pocket when removing the old seal. They are thin and crack easily when prying out the seal. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I have this engine and plan to install on a 1958 Taft 12' wooden kit boat. Would you ever be willing to answer a few questions about converting the tiller control to remote throttle/steering? :)
Thank you. This should be a great motor for your boat . Yes, I will try to answer your questions about rigging one of these motors for remote controls. Try bbreitner at hotmail dot com and we can discuss there.
This one kind of shows its age, but it has aged pretty well. It still needs a new throttle roller. It has a big flat spot worn on it causing some of my issues. It's a really nice runner when all is right. Just a couple more issues to track down and fix. Thanks for watching!
I'm sure it will improve with some running. The throttle cam roller has a bad flat spot too, so that is making the link n sync inconsistent. Ill.replace that and it will likely improve too. Thanks for watching!
Great motor. I have the same motor but I’ve got prop problems. I nicked a rock with the original prop and the replacement prop was a smaller pitch. Noticeable reduction in speed. I gave the prop to someone at a meet to have it fixed and forgot who I gave it to. The member I thought I gave it to doesn’t remember if I did. Well the last fishing trip the replacement prop spun. Of coarse we were as far from the ramp as we could be. It was a long ride back to the ramp at a little above idle. Is the 9x10 the original size prop?
These are excellent motors. The 28s are my favorites. I do believe 9x10 was the factory pitch for these motors. It is the most versatile for the motor, but in my case I usually run solo in a fairly light boat. I definitely get more speed out of a 9.25x11P running that way. Spinning the prop hub in the spot on the lake that is as far away from the dock as humanly possible is life according to Murphy. That's just how it goes. It's nice to know it isn't just me, LOL. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever machined out the bearing head on a lower unit and replace it? I have one with a worn bearing head, been thinking of putting in a new bushing or bearing like the newer motors have.
I have not done that yet, but I save all my worn out bearing heads and upper gearcase housings with plans to try it at some point. I'm sure it can be done, but I'm nit sure if it is worth the effort. Someday, there won't be any good ones left, so I figure it's worth holding on to them. Thanks for watching!
I have two more questions about this motor. Since the water pump doesn't have a gasket, do you put sealant compound on either side of the metal plate? My skeg looks like it was welded and I was hoping to replace it. Can you replace just the skeg on this motor? People have told me this lower is milled with the skeg installed and you can't just replace the skeg. If so, any idea what the part number is? The parts manual just has a number for the assembly. Sorry about the long post.
The water pump in these motors had sealer (3M 847) between the bottom of the impeller plate and the upper gearcase housing. I usually don't use any sealer at all on them. I don't find it to be necessary at all. The skegs on these gearcases were indeed bored as an assembly so the skeg is technically matched to the upper case. They are, however, usually quite consistent and more often than not work fine if interchanged. The only way to know is to try it. Out of dozens that I have interchanged, I have only had two that didn't work. One would bind the prop shaft and the other one would never seal up well. I use Permatex Ultra Black to seal the gearcase halves. It does tend to be a bit more forgiving than the 847 which was the originally used to seal them up. I have use 847 also and still have not had much problem getting them to seal. Thanks again for watching!
I have a johnson just like this one. It cranks easy and idles good. But in forward with full throttle it won't wind out. Kind of like it's bogged down. Rpms sound low when running full throttle. Any idea what it could be
Well, it could be that the high speed mixture is too rich or too lean. It could be that the carburetor is starving for fuel. It may be that you have too much prop pitch for your boat and load. Thanks for watching!
I have a 18 horse Johnson do believe it is a 57 needs the impeller replaced which I have just don't have the ability to change it basically lack of tools by chance are you in the Michigan area lol
I occasionally sell off a motor or two. I don't sell very many of my 18s, but this one may eventually come up for sale if I find a cosmetically nicer 57. Where are you located?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I'm in Sanger Texas and my preference would be a 18 like that but I would be interested in about anything with a little more power than a 9.5
@@johngoble1558 Well, I'm in Michigan. That's a heck of a road trip for an old outboard. An 18 will definitely vastly outperform a 9.5. Unfortunately I do not ship motors. If you ever make it up this way to a motor meet or something that could work if I had something for sale. If I didn't, someone would.
@@johngoble1558 You're welcome. Yes, they're definitely more common up here. Many were built in the area and the boating season is much shorter. Might be worth a trip to the Midwest / Great Lakes sometime?
That is so cool. I’ve always loved older small outboards. Had a few myself.
Thank you. I really enjoy these old outboards and boats. I'm glad to be able to spread some of that enjoyment to others through these videos. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I grew up on those old two strokes. I have to admit I love that smell of gas and oil mix.
@@hessranch I did as well. There were LOTS of these motors still in regular use when I was a young kid. They're still out there being used regularly today by some, but the numbers are a whole lot smaller now. The smell of the 2-stroke exhaust holds a certain something that brings back memories. Thanks for watching!
I sure like your videos. No bs, all the facts and we can even see the GPS speed. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! I appreciate that and thanks for watching!
You make these old machines run beautifully ! Thank you for the ride along (it’s my favorite part! Ha ha ha)
Thank you! I'm glad you always enjoy the ride along. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 jjjjk
I have a 1957 (I think) 18 HP Evinrude that I've only fired up on the test barrel. My boat is only rated for 17.5 HP max and with my luck I would get caught. I know you've said 18's are your favorites, and I'm beginning to see why.
Thanks again for the ride along with an old classic!
The 1957 Evinrude Fastwin would have the script Evinrude logos on the sides. Yes, the 18s are my favorite outboards. 17.5 rounds up to 18, right? LOL. I don't know how strictly they enforce those ratings where you boat. 1/2 hp seems pretty silly, but what do I know? Most of my boats didn't even have the plates in them anymore by the time I got them. My Meyers Aquabird 12WT is the lowest rated boat I own other than my canoe and it is 18hp. Thanks for watching!
I have one of these and it runs great. So long as you take the pressure off the fuel tank when you shut it off.
The float valve should be able to hold fuel flow against tank pressure once the bowl is full. If it cannot, the float valve needle and seat are most likely either worn or damaged in some way. That said, I also have a '57 Evinrude Fastwin 18hp that will flood the carburetor if tank pressure is left on it when the engine is off. I have rebuilt that carburetor twice with new float, needle, and seat and it still allows fuel past the valve. I need to rebuild it once more to make sure nothing is wrong. I am not sure what is going on, but it should not do that. Thanks for watching!
My favorite 50’s outboard I gotta day
Thanks for watching!
Good to hear you are a Klotzlube guy. Me too
I do like the Klotz oils. I have been running their oil in my 2-strokes for many years. 🙂👍 Good stuff with a great smell.
I started using it years ago as well in vintage snowmobiles. Then it spread to everything.
Man that is Awesome:
Wonder if I can get ours running like that
This one is pretty strong, but most of my 18s run pretty close to this. This one needed a lower unit, tune up parts, and some grass blown put of the cooling system with the garden hose. Other than that, it is a great motor and a pleasure to run. Good luck with yours. Yes, thisnis a 24:1 mix motor. One quart of outboard oil per 6 gallon tank. Thanks for watching!
Greetings. I have a 57 Gale, 56 Evinrude, 55 Johnson - all 25 hp models. They are in various stages of refurbishment. Which is why I get a big kick out of your your posts on the various engines you acquire. It takes time and effort to do that, so thank you!
That being said, when you go over the work you’ve done on the units, I notice you don’t mention compression very much (although it’s very possible I’ve missed episodes where you have). Is this because you don’t typically run across low compression issues very often? I ask, because I’m suspicious that a couple of mine might be low. As I recall, they should be around 100 or so? Again, thank you for your contributions toward keeping these great old motors alive.
Alex
Thank you.
Thanks for watching, Mike!
It’s a seller 👍🏿👍🏿
I have an old one of these that “came with the house”. Other than dust on it I have no idea its operating status. What would an unknown running condition motor like this be worth to someone willing to fix it up?
I notice someone put a 56 handle on this motor. The white "ribbed" handles are horrible on the hand. A couple of mine have been changed.
Yes, I changed it. The white ribbed gripnwas all cracked and looked bad anyway and I am not a fan of that grip. I like the '53-'56 grip very well. I have designed my own tiller grip now that I 3D print out of PETG. I probably still prefer this grip, but I'm quite fond of the grip I designed for 3D printing also. You'll see a number of thise showing up on my motors. Thanks for watching!
Nice job on the motor. I have the same one that my son and I are working on. I'm having trouble finding the Prop shaft seal- 302495. Do you have any idea where I can find one?
Thank you! These are great motors. The prop shaft seal is available from Marineengine.com as well as often on Ebay. They're a little pricey, but they last a long time if you don't get fishing line or something around the prop shaft that ruins it. The other option is to find a bearing head from a '58 and later 5-bolt bushing lower unit (18/20hp) that uses the smaller, less expensive and more available seal. You can also make or have made a reducer bushing to go into the original bearing head to reduce the ID down to take the smaller seal. If you're just going through this motor and your original bearing head is in good condition, I would just pay up for the proper seal and replace it. Be careful not to crack the bearing head seal pocket when removing the old seal. They are thin and crack easily when prying out the seal. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I have this engine and plan to install on a 1958 Taft 12' wooden kit boat. Would you ever be willing to answer a few questions about converting the tiller control to remote throttle/steering? :)
Thank you. This should be a great motor for your boat . Yes, I will try to answer your questions about rigging one of these motors for remote controls. Try bbreitner at hotmail dot com and we can discuss there.
She looks good and runs well! I have also same motor and i have to do same things.
This one kind of shows its age, but it has aged pretty well. It still needs a new throttle roller. It has a big flat spot worn on it causing some of my issues. It's a really nice runner when all is right. Just a couple more issues to track down and fix. Thanks for watching!
Quiet, smooth and powerful.... It will idle better once you get some time on it... Don/kramden
I'm sure it will improve with some running. The throttle cam roller has a bad flat spot too, so that is making the link n sync inconsistent. Ill.replace that and it will likely improve too. Thanks for watching!
Great motor.
I have the same motor but I’ve got prop problems.
I nicked a rock with the original prop and the replacement
prop was a smaller pitch. Noticeable reduction in speed.
I gave the prop to someone at a meet to have it fixed and
forgot who I gave it to. The member I thought I gave it to
doesn’t remember if I did.
Well the last fishing trip the replacement prop spun.
Of coarse we were as far from the ramp as we could be.
It was a long ride back to the ramp at a little above idle.
Is the 9x10 the original size prop?
These are excellent motors. The 28s are my favorites. I do believe 9x10 was the factory pitch for these motors. It is the most versatile for the motor, but in my case I usually run solo in a fairly light boat. I definitely get more speed out of a 9.25x11P running that way. Spinning the prop hub in the spot on the lake that is as far away from the dock as humanly possible is life according to Murphy. That's just how it goes. It's nice to know it isn't just me, LOL. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever machined out the bearing head on a lower unit and replace it? I have one with a worn bearing head, been thinking of putting in a new bushing or bearing like the newer motors have.
I have not done that yet, but I save all my worn out bearing heads and upper gearcase housings with plans to try it at some point. I'm sure it can be done, but I'm nit sure if it is worth the effort. Someday, there won't be any good ones left, so I figure it's worth holding on to them. Thanks for watching!
I have two more questions about this motor. Since the water pump doesn't have a gasket, do you put sealant compound on either side of the metal plate? My skeg looks like it was welded and I was hoping to replace it. Can you replace just the skeg on this motor? People have told me this lower is milled with the skeg installed and you can't just replace the skeg. If so, any idea what the part number is? The parts manual just has a number for the assembly. Sorry about the long post.
The water pump in these motors had sealer (3M 847) between the bottom of the impeller plate and the upper gearcase housing. I usually don't use any sealer at all on them. I don't find it to be necessary at all.
The skegs on these gearcases were indeed bored as an assembly so the skeg is technically matched to the upper case. They are, however, usually quite consistent and more often than not work fine if interchanged. The only way to know is to try it. Out of dozens that I have interchanged, I have only had two that didn't work. One would bind the prop shaft and the other one would never seal up well. I use Permatex Ultra Black to seal the gearcase halves. It does tend to be a bit more forgiving than the 847 which was the originally used to seal them up. I have use 847 also and still have not had much problem getting them to seal. Thanks again for watching!
I have a johnson just like this one. It cranks easy and idles good. But in forward with full throttle it won't wind out. Kind of like it's bogged down. Rpms sound low when running full throttle. Any idea what it could be
Well, it could be that the high speed mixture is too rich or too lean. It could be that the carburetor is starving for fuel. It may be that you have too much prop pitch for your boat and load. Thanks for watching!
I have a 18 horse Johnson do believe it is a 57 needs the impeller replaced which I have just don't have the ability to change it basically lack of tools by chance are you in the Michigan area lol
I am in SE Michigan. Where are you located?
Do you sell these motors? Iv always loved your videos and currently have a 64 evenrude 9.5 but really want this motor
I occasionally sell off a motor or two. I don't sell very many of my 18s, but this one may eventually come up for sale if I find a cosmetically nicer 57. Where are you located?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I'm in Sanger Texas and my preference would be a 18 like that but I would be interested in about anything with a little more power than a 9.5
@@johngoble1558 Well, I'm in Michigan. That's a heck of a road trip for an old outboard. An 18 will definitely vastly outperform a 9.5. Unfortunately I do not ship motors. If you ever make it up this way to a motor meet or something that could work if I had something for sale. If I didn't, someone would.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 awsome thanks for the info it seems like they are much more common up north than here
@@johngoble1558 You're welcome. Yes, they're definitely more common up here. Many were built in the area and the boating season is much shorter. Might be worth a trip to the Midwest / Great Lakes sometime?
It’s a seller 👍🏿👍🏿. ? 24:1???