1956,57 &58 18s were amazing. I have seen them literally running glowing red hot from failed water p-umps, watch them cool, put in pump and it just starts right back up and runs...forever. they never matched this durability again. Don't get me wrong, i love omc engines. These were just special, i rebuilt my grandpas ion 1969 at 8 years old and it still runs. Been building outboards ever since...lol omg i'm getting old...
soundin GOOD! for coming back to life. i have some motors, 1972 18hp, i have two im going to start on when the weather warms, they been sitting for a spell.
I have watched a number of videos of people struggling with the recoil. You are the first person with the know how to clamp the darn thing before attaching the pull rope. Finally a smart mechanic. When you had it on the boat it seemed to be running roughly. Maybe missing on one cylinder?
Doing a good job actually showing how long it takes to do something most of the UA-camrs that are out there skip seeing the actual process keep up the good work
Thanks! Now that the Fall is on us I will likely start fixing snowblowers as the old outboards dont sell in the winter. But I will surely stock up some cheap ones for next spring! More to follow!
Can't wait! Love the straight forward approach to filming and that you don't cut out to much. It's enjoyable to just hang out in the garage while you wrench. Hope to see this channel grow!
@@Alex_Willis right! Some outboard UA-camrs edit through too much. People generally watch these to learn. There is one guy that I used to watch and he knows his outboards pretty good, but he's constantly fast-forwarding segments and so I pretty much stopped watching. The longer the better!
Yeah, I’ve been lucky in that most of the lower units I’ve had were good. Sometimes I need to drill out and reinstall a new locator pin so the bronze bushing won’t spin. But that’s the most I’ve needed to do. Thanks for watching!
Glad you got it all going and nice to see the original Medallion still present as most of them are missing and people have put the one from the 1957 on a 1958 hood . Your Motor is a 1958 by the way. Any motor with that color scheme is 1958 opposite color scheme on the hood and a darker red is 1957.
I've still got 5 NOS 1958 medallions. Amazing that they are so rare now. I bought mine years ago........... most still in their boxes. Thank heavens I bought them when I did.
24:1 is correct as far as period literature. However, an early 18 is fully equipped with roller bearings (mains, rods, crank) and, thus, will be fine with 50:1. But this ratio is not propper to many other motors - such as a Johnson 10hp, which would not be fully equipped with rollers until 1961.
Those were great engines. My last one like that was stolen 20 years ago. Now I have a 1971 model . Basically the same. No glass fuel separator on the newer model.
Major carburetor size change around about 1967, which gave the 18 some more "kick". Thermostat added around 59-60. Otherwise, same great motor - the holy grail (1958) of 18's.
That motor did not come with a fuel pump...someone put that on. It ran with a pressurized 2 line tank. Did they block off the pulse line that pressurized the gas tank??
@@RetroVertig0 I'm about to convert a 1956 15 Hp (model FD-10). I saw a T-Mike's video where he made the conversion by swapping a side plate from a newer model. The other option shown was removing the air pump valve behind the carburetor and plugging one side. It creates a pulse that will run a diaphragm fuel pump. ua-cam.com/video/Gbq5htJ0U3c/v-deo.htmlsi=N-b0x-f3aehGmORv
Might try soap testing the top crank seal, it looks rather oily up around in there. I'm doing a 1966- 18hp for that reason now. Part # 305987 OMC or 18-2018 Sierra
@@RetroVertig0 yes! For sure! I only noticed my need for a new crank seal while installing new points and condensers, I saw it was pretty oily so while I had the mag plate off I put some diluted dish soap around the crankshaft and turned it. Sure enough, it was blowing bubbles! 😆
I put a hose coupler on a piece of large fuel hose, leaving the other end bare. Then I cut two 6” x 3” pieces of rubber (from an old wheelbarrow tire). I used c clamps to clamp it all together. As long as the hose is pointed at the water intake, and there is a bit of back pressure from the tire flaps, it’s enough to keep the impeller pumping water. Hope that explanation is clear. Thanks for watching.
If you had checked the compression first, and if it was nearly equal and in a good range, there would be no reason whatsoever to remove the cylinder head. I could not tell whether you had done that or not. I sure hope you did not reuse the old head gasket which had already been compressed for many years. (Hard to tell because I could not hear what you were saying.) Watching the segment on the recoil starter, I see where you would have greatly benefited from a good shop manual. For example, no need to clamp the recoil starter after rewinding the spring; there is an alignment hole so that you can insert a rod to hold the tension while installing a handle. And the timing of the spring on the eccentric you did not seem to address, which could make the motor much more difficult to pull over. However, you did a great job overall and I congratulate you on your success. A cylinder is misfiring on the boat test, but I'm sure you addressed that by now. Like you, I love these old 18's and have four myself. They are the best of the best in an era when America produced the best in the world. Sad to see how far behind this nation has fallen today. Thank you for your video. (You surely need a better microphone; extremely hard to hear what you are saying.) Again, thanks.
It came to me with the head off, so I needed to put it back together first. I did reuse the old head gasket, but it’s been fine all this year (going 2 seasons now), and yes I received lots of heat for doing this, but it’s not like I go far or run a fishing charter off of this engine. Good to see lots of knowledgeable folks commenting on this video. All of these points are taken aboard for when I get into one of these again. I am certainly no expert. Thanks for watching!
@@RetroVertig0 Yes, and I am glad you responded because I came across in more of a scolding mood than I intended. You did a very good job for someone who is/was inexperienced - probably better than me when I was at that level of experience. For that I apologize. I did not mean for my comment to sound as harsh as it did. Thanks again for going to the effort of making the video.
I’ve bought one already, but the built in noise gate made it a rough experience from an audio perspective (a very jagged on/off sound profile). Do you know of any that you could recommend, understanding that I want to keep the workplace ambiance? Appreciate the input!
That sealer is not supposed to be used cause that plugs the holes for water to keep the engine cool . Also the plug wire bracket goes on the center bolt .
Yes probably. I also start with stock settings set rich. Boat I’m using is a 16ft StarCraft which is wayyyyy too much boat for this engine, but all I have for a test platform. I think all of the OMC engines without needle bearings in crank call for 24:1. Once I lean down the settings on the water on a boat that is better suited, it’s usually a pretty sweet ride!
I reconditioned three 50's motors and fully tuned up two others. They all start in 1-3 pulls. I use the original fuel system and don't convert anything. You do a good job as a do it yourselfer. Definitely a little cringing for a technician to watch. Sorry no sorry, lol.
@@RetroVertig0 By the book or common knowledge between experienced technicians are different. Reusing a head gasket and using silicone on a head gasket isn't something I would do even if I was selling it to a stranger. Shaft seals are lubricated by fluid on one side so I question how stacking 2 together would be logical. The bushing can be popped out with a long punch from the other side. They make a special tool for it but you don't need it. Tapping and threading it where the shaft rides defeats the purpose of it being a bushing. By the book would be giving you a hard time for using a hammer on a socket and extension, lol. We all do that. Either way you made it work. Use it and be proud. I'll note that there is a top crankshaft seal that can give starting and idle issues. You need to remove the magneto to replace it. Richard's outboard tools sells the removal tool. He also has the coil locator and timing tool for accurately adjusting the points.
Hello, good video. I have a Johnson Sea Horse RD hp 25 year 1952 I need to buy some spare parts. Would you know of a store to order from Amazon? I am in Argentina. Thank you.
My dad had one of those on a 18 foot alluminum richilne boat. We caught a lot of fish out of that boat. It did not have the rich and lean adjustment on the face. I think it was a newer model one. but mostly the exact same. I could ski behind it too. only 18 hp ours was blue. It was a little tiller motor. My dad would sit back there all day and troll and hold that tiller in one hand and fishing pole in the other. Good times for sure. Back way back when in the seventies. I bet it would have trolled slower if we had the low rich lean adjustments. You want to troll for fish pretty slow.
Someone has changed the carb as it should have a sediment filter bowl under the float bowl. Also yes that float has been changed to updated plastic Float. I own a 1958 Johnson18hp FD-12. There is packing available for the needle valves .
I since changed it. It still held pressure too as I hit the threads with a bunch of sealer. But yes, not something one would want to leave on for too long.
Propeller should be 9 1/4 X 11 standard propeller . Also you should use brass shear pins you can make some save on the propeller . The propeller nut should be just finger tight.
Once i get it on a little boat i should be able to see. This one performed as well as a Gale i had running previously on the same boat. Scary fast once i got it on an emptyish 14' aluminum.
Looks bit of a not good working here with that sanding stuff.. Just take a razorblaze that you have hand-balance to it by sharpening it. No need to scrape metal off. MasT OF MAst ON !
Its not rapping out man. Running too slow. carb is not opening up. hmm I dont know think that boat is too big for it but it dont sound like its running out. Maybe that carb is smaller?
I had my last 18 running on this boat at about the same performance. On this boat, it’s pretty heavy with a 70hp, trolling motor, 2x batteries, and its a 16ft. That’s why I think im Ok going this slow at WOT. The other 18 Hp (the gales from my other vids), performed the same on this boat, but were weapons when I put them behind a lighter 14ft. It was a little scary dailing in the carb at WOT on the 14ft. Lots of fun too!
Rewind needs to be lubed and that screw has to be tight. And I see your spring is pouched . Also rewind is not original to the motor it should be the red holiday bronz color.
You absolutely shouldn’t be working on anything, using silicone on a head gasket is some stupid shit! And thinking someone could learn from this is absolutely horrifying! Should’ve pulled the powerhead! An absolute slap in the face to old outboard mechanics such as myself!
Red RTV holds up on a header which gets way hotter than a head so I don't see it being the worst idea ever. And if it doesn't hold up then he can replace it later. Don't really see the big deal. It's an old outboard, not the space shuttle. #Don't get it right, get it running. #If it works, is it really a dumb idea?
😊this guy has no idea what he's doing.. first red sealer , then keeps putting gas on top piston then wonders why gas runs out lower unit then pulls and pulls like a idiot CHASING ENGINE all over the garage iam taking a shot!!! That he built the stand as well be better used as fire wood he a disgrace to the UA-cam mechanics who actually show things right!! FULL REFURBISH??? Were in fuck did he do it in this video?.. should been called I WOUNDER IF I CAN GETIT GOING.
Very thorough tune up and service. Good video!
1956,57 &58 18s were amazing. I have seen them literally running glowing red hot from failed water p-umps, watch them cool, put in pump and it just starts right back up and runs...forever. they never matched this durability again. Don't get me wrong, i love omc engines. These were just special, i rebuilt my grandpas ion 1969 at 8 years old and it still runs. Been building outboards ever since...lol omg i'm getting old...
Also tuck all those wired in away from the point cam . Also make sure that the coils are properly adjusted on the posts .
Thank you for the work involved making this video. Addictive viewing.
soundin GOOD! for coming back to life. i have some motors, 1972 18hp, i have two im going to start on when the weather warms, they been sitting for a spell.
I have watched a number of videos of people struggling with the recoil. You are the first person with the know how to clamp the darn thing before attaching the pull rope. Finally a smart mechanic. When you had it on the boat it seemed to be running roughly. Maybe missing on one cylinder?
Thanks for the kind words Leonard! Can’t take credit for that one though. But it been a helpful trick through the years!!
Doing a good job actually showing how long it takes to do something most of the UA-camrs that are out there skip seeing the actual process keep up the good work
Hey thanks! Appreciate the comment. I try and keep my many mistakes in there too!! Thanks for watching🤙
Love the old outboards. Keep the videos coming!!
Thanks! Now that the Fall is on us I will likely start fixing snowblowers as the old outboards dont sell in the winter. But I will surely stock up some cheap ones for next spring!
More to follow!
Can't wait! Love the straight forward approach to filming and that you don't cut out to much. It's enjoyable to just hang out in the garage while you wrench. Hope to see this channel grow!
@@Alex_Willis right! Some outboard UA-camrs edit through too much. People generally watch these to learn. There is one guy that I used to watch and he knows his outboards pretty good, but he's constantly fast-forwarding segments and so I pretty much stopped watching. The longer the better!
@@ALVintageOutboards just checked out your channel. A treasure trove of useful outboard videos! Subscribed!
@@Alex_Willisawesome! Thank you, you have no idea 💡how much that means to me!
I really like these old motors and getting them to run is very satisfying. I’ve gotten many of them to run but the lower units is another story.
Yeah, I’ve been lucky in that most of the lower units I’ve had were good. Sometimes I need to drill out and reinstall a new locator pin so the bronze bushing won’t spin. But that’s the most I’ve needed to do. Thanks for watching!
On the bottom of the gear case you can use some allen head bolts as I have changed mine over to some.
Glad you got it all going and nice to see the original Medallion still present as most of them are missing and people have put the one from the 1957 on a 1958 hood . Your Motor is a 1958 by the way. Any motor with that color scheme is 1958 opposite color scheme on the hood and a darker red is 1957.
I've still got 5 NOS 1958 medallions. Amazing that they are so rare now. I bought mine years ago........... most still in their boxes. Thank heavens I bought them when I did.
@@mikedurhan9941 I would like 2 of them if you are willing to part with 2 .
@@denisgosselin7383 Not at this time, but thanks for asking. I may sell some within the year. (They won't be real cheap.)
@@denisgosselin7383 Not at this time, Dennis. But thanks for asking.
Thank you for this video I've learned so much . Now I can take apart my 1957 18hp evinrude with confidence hopefully they are the same
The confidence bit is a mask I must wear well. Glad you liked it and hope it helps!!!
Also Fuel Mixture is 24:1 Also a little bit of resistance should be felt on the needle adjustments.
24:1 is correct as far as period literature. However, an early 18 is fully equipped with roller bearings (mains, rods, crank) and, thus, will be fine with 50:1. But this ratio is not propper to many other motors - such as a Johnson 10hp, which would not be fully equipped with rollers until 1961.
Those were great engines. My last one like that was stolen 20 years ago. Now I have a 1971 model . Basically the same. No glass fuel separator on the newer model.
This one was fun to work on, I really like the old style cowling. But yes, basically the same engine up until early 70's i think.
Major carburetor size change around about 1967, which gave the 18 some more "kick". Thermostat added around 59-60. Otherwise, same great motor - the holy grail (1958) of 18's.
Sounds to me like it's only firing on one cylinder...shouldn't be that hard to start if both cylinders are firing
I think I pushed water into the carb/fuel pump when I was washing it. Following that first start it’s one or two pulls even after sitting for a bit.
I used Coppercoat on dad's "58". We ran it for decades, then I had to let it go on the sale when he passed
Hopefully this one will have the same longevity. We shall see.
That motor did not come with a fuel pump...someone put that on. It ran with a pressurized 2 line tank. Did they block off the pulse line that pressurized the gas tank??
Yeah the guy had it blocked off. Looks like a bolt with Teflon tape.
@@RetroVertig0 I'm about to convert a 1956 15 Hp (model FD-10).
I saw a T-Mike's video where he made the conversion by swapping a side plate from a newer model. The other option shown was removing the air pump valve behind the carburetor and plugging one side. It creates a pulse that will run a diaphragm fuel pump. ua-cam.com/video/Gbq5htJ0U3c/v-deo.htmlsi=N-b0x-f3aehGmORv
Be diligent with adjusting the mag advance
It's a 1958 and it's my favorite 'Font'!
Some sweet graphics for sure!
Might try soap testing the top crank seal, it looks rather oily up around in there. I'm doing a 1966- 18hp for that reason now. Part # 305987 OMC or 18-2018 Sierra
Yeah I think this one needs a bit more “spiffing up”. For now, happy that I got it from zero to running.
@@RetroVertig0 yes! For sure! I only noticed my need for a new crank seal while installing new points and condensers, I saw it was pretty oily so while I had the mag plate off I put some diluted dish soap around the crankshaft and turned it. Sure enough, it was blowing bubbles! 😆
How did you jury rig the garden hose to the water inlet?
I put a hose coupler on a piece of large fuel hose, leaving the other end bare. Then I cut two 6” x 3” pieces of rubber (from an old wheelbarrow tire). I used c clamps to clamp it all together. As long as the hose is pointed at the water intake, and there is a bit of back pressure from the tire flaps, it’s enough to keep the impeller pumping water.
Hope that explanation is clear.
Thanks for watching.
Those older O.M.C's were fairly easy to build, and easy to get a couple more "horses" our of.
I like try and stick to the same(ish) models. I find them faster to turn around that way, and spare parts keep piling up!
@@RetroVertig0 too bad I cleared mine out before I found you...all wasted because no one wanted "old Johnson parts"
Bummer....Johnson/ Evercrude will always be my favorite
When did the gear oil go in?
If you had checked the compression first, and if it was nearly equal and in a good range, there would be no reason whatsoever to remove the cylinder head. I could not tell whether you had done that or not.
I sure hope you did not reuse the old head gasket which had already been compressed for many years. (Hard to tell because I could not hear what you were saying.)
Watching the segment on the recoil starter, I see where you would have greatly benefited from a good shop manual. For example, no need to clamp the recoil starter after rewinding the spring; there is an alignment hole so that you can insert a rod to hold the tension while installing a handle. And the timing of the spring on the eccentric you did not seem to address, which could make the motor much more difficult to pull over. However, you did a great job overall and I congratulate you on your success. A cylinder is misfiring on the boat test, but I'm sure you addressed that by now.
Like you, I love these old 18's and have four myself. They are the best of the best in an era when America produced the best in the world. Sad to see how far behind this nation has fallen today.
Thank you for your video. (You surely need a better microphone; extremely hard to hear what you are saying.) Again, thanks.
It came to me with the head off, so I needed to put it back together first. I did reuse the old head gasket, but it’s been fine all this year (going 2 seasons now), and yes I received lots of heat for doing this, but it’s not like I go far or run a fishing charter off of this engine.
Good to see lots of knowledgeable folks commenting on this video. All of these points are taken aboard for when I get into one of these again. I am certainly no expert.
Thanks for watching!
@@RetroVertig0 Yes, and I am glad you responded because I came across in more of a scolding mood than I intended. You did a very good job for someone who is/was inexperienced - probably better than me when I was at that level of experience. For that I apologize. I did not mean for my comment to sound as harsh as it did. Thanks again for going to the effort of making the video.
Two words for you, "Wireless Mic".
I’ve bought one already, but the built in noise gate made it a rough experience from an audio perspective (a very jagged on/off sound profile). Do you know of any that you could recommend, understanding that I want to keep the workplace ambiance?
Appreciate the input!
That sealer is not supposed to be used cause that plugs the holes for water to keep the engine cool . Also the plug wire bracket goes on the center bolt .
There should be an O-ring on the end of the drive shaft and grease when you put it back in.
It seems to be running a bit rich would that be because you're using a 1:24 fuel mix?
Yes probably. I also start with stock settings set rich. Boat I’m using is a 16ft StarCraft which is wayyyyy too much boat for this engine, but all I have for a test platform. I think all of the OMC engines without needle bearings in crank call for 24:1.
Once I lean down the settings on the water on a boat that is better suited, it’s usually a pretty sweet ride!
It needs high oil! Keep it right there!!
I reconditioned three 50's motors and fully tuned up two others. They all start in 1-3 pulls. I use the original fuel system and don't convert anything. You do a good job as a do it yourselfer. Definitely a little cringing for a technician to watch. Sorry no sorry, lol.
Thanks for the comment. There will always purists who insist on going by the book 100% which I do understand. I’m still learning the balance I guess.
@@RetroVertig0 By the book or common knowledge between experienced technicians are different. Reusing a head gasket and using silicone on a head gasket isn't something I would do even if I was selling it to a stranger. Shaft seals are lubricated by fluid on one side so I question how stacking 2 together would be logical. The bushing can be popped out with a long punch from the other side. They make a special tool for it but you don't need it. Tapping and threading it where the shaft rides defeats the purpose of it being a bushing.
By the book would be giving you a hard time for using a hammer on a socket and extension, lol. We all do that.
Either way you made it work. Use it and be proud.
I'll note that there is a top crankshaft seal that can give starting and idle issues. You need to remove the magneto to replace it. Richard's outboard tools sells the removal tool. He also has the coil locator and timing tool for accurately adjusting the points.
Hello, good video. I have a Johnson Sea Horse RD hp 25 year 1952 I need to buy some spare parts. Would you know of a store to order from Amazon? I am in Argentina. Thank you.
To put the head back on remove the lower pan at the back of the motor it is held on with small screws.
My dad had one of those on a 18 foot alluminum richilne boat. We caught a lot of fish out of that boat. It did not have the rich and lean adjustment on the face. I think it was a newer model one. but mostly the exact same. I could ski behind it too. only 18 hp ours was blue. It was a little tiller motor. My dad would sit back there all day and troll and hold that tiller in one hand and fishing pole in the other. Good times for sure. Back way back when in the seventies. I bet it would have trolled slower if we had the low rich lean adjustments. You want to troll for fish pretty slow.
I think the Evinrudes of this era were blue? All good motors though!
You had an Evinrude, probably early ‘60s.
@@RetroVertig0 Yes it was a blue Evinrude
Yes it was.
Love the video. Suggestion - turn off the radio. I want to hear everything u say. :)
Thanks for then suggestion and kind words. I did recently get a good lapel mic. Should clean up my audio significantly for any future vids.
Cheers!
Better put that in a pail of water or the water pump will be wrecked as soon as it starts
Someone has changed the carb as it should have a sediment filter bowl under the float bowl. Also yes that float has been changed to updated plastic Float. I own a 1958 Johnson18hp FD-12. There is packing available for the needle valves .
Wrong. The sediment filter bowl on a 1958 18 is mounted high on the port side of the powerhead.
@@mikedurhan9941 I realized it after i made my comment .
@@denisgosselin7383 No problem. Just didn't want others who read your post to be misinformed. Heck, I ain't perfect either.......... We're good.
Wow i can't believe that your leaving that o-ring on the screw like that on the bottom of the bottom end .
I since changed it. It still held pressure too as I hit the threads with a bunch of sealer. But yes, not something one would want to leave on for too long.
Propeller should be 9 1/4 X 11 standard propeller . Also you should use brass shear pins you can make some save on the propeller . The propeller nut should be just finger tight.
Are you sure BOTH cylinders working? It doesn't sound right to me, but I'm not an expert.
Once i get it on a little boat i should be able to see. This one performed as well as a Gale i had running previously on the same boat. Scary fast once i got it on an emptyish 14' aluminum.
You did forget a screw on the front of the air box .
I think maybe it was not there to begin with. I did notice it was missing though.
Looks bit of a not good working here with that sanding stuff.. Just take a razorblaze that you have hand-balance to it by sharpening it. No need to scrape metal off. MasT OF MAst ON !
Its not rapping out man. Running too slow. carb is not opening up. hmm I dont know think that boat is too big for it but it dont sound like its running out. Maybe that carb is smaller?
I had my last 18 running on this boat at about the same performance. On this boat, it’s pretty heavy with a 70hp, trolling motor, 2x batteries, and its a 16ft. That’s why I think im Ok going this slow at WOT. The other 18 Hp (the gales from my other vids), performed the same on this boat, but were weapons when I put them behind a lighter 14ft. It was a little scary dailing in the carb at WOT on the 14ft. Lots of fun too!
Not original robbertson screws should be common flat screw driver .
Take that pan off at the back of the Motor to be able to remove and tighten the bolts .
Good video Retro!
Thank you!!! Appreciate the nod!
This guy has NO training and no clue and is going about this all wrong. RESURFACE BLOCK AND HEAD
Thanks for the interest Arthur. Always appreciate view points from the pros!
And I guess you were born knowing all this? Everybody has to learn............
Also your torque pattern was wrong .
1958 FD12 18hp and propeller should be a 9 1/4 X 11 by OMC.
Or Michigan Wheel #PJ18.
Fuel pump on side already said modified
Rewind needs to be lubed and that screw has to be tight. And I see your spring is pouched . Also rewind is not original to the motor it should be the red holiday bronz color.
Also should not have a fuel pump and run off of a pressurized double hose fuel mile master.
1958.only year for that Color scheme .
thres a lot of oeople love rebuilding things its a reward to the past in todays screw it throw it away buy something new world.
Mixed gas 24:1
Why would you not put a new gasket in instead of using the old one . Thank God you don't work on my stuff
Really appreciate your comment and insight Ralph. Thanks for watching!
You absolutely shouldn’t be working on anything, using silicone on a head gasket is some stupid shit!
And thinking someone could learn from this is absolutely horrifying!
Should’ve pulled the powerhead!
An absolute slap in the face to old outboard mechanics such as myself!
Yeah, red RTV on an old head gasket made me raise an eyebrow too.
Red RTV holds up on a header which gets way hotter than a head so I don't see it being the worst idea ever. And if it doesn't hold up then he can replace it later. Don't really see the big deal. It's an old outboard, not the space shuttle. #Don't get it right, get it running. #If it works, is it really a dumb idea?
😊this guy has no idea what he's doing.. first red sealer , then keeps putting gas on top piston then wonders why gas runs out lower unit then pulls and pulls like a idiot CHASING ENGINE all over the garage iam taking a shot!!! That he built the stand as well be better used as fire wood he a disgrace to the UA-cam mechanics who actually show things right!! FULL REFURBISH??? Were in fuck did he do it in this video?.. should been called I WOUNDER IF I CAN GETIT GOING.
Always nice to get the unvarnished thoughts from the pros. Thanks for watching!
Great to see that your passion for this wonderful hobby approaches or exceed mine! Cheers and thanks for the insight!