My destroyed drive line is pulling over gross loads everyday and will never have a failure due to this repair. YOU SIR know NOTHING about what you're talking about. Remember a "wise man has something to say and a foolish man has to say something".
Gordon Robertson mmmmm I know a little bit about what I’m talking about 😂, you coulda just used a grinder and impact hammer, less fuss and cleaner results but the old dogs like yourself love fucking things up with torches
You seen it work with your own eyes! I would have never tried it out of fear until i seen it work with my own eyes. Its pretty bad when people dont believe there own two eyes. I could see the bearing steal was really really soft compared to the steal drive line. I dont think you should be working on any of your own stuff or anything for that matter, for your own safety, you might walk into a wall or bounce off a building or something....haha...
Absolutely love your videos. I’m a diesel mechanic started 4 years ago and without finding multiple videos of yours on UA-cam I would have been lost. Thanks for putting your time into these so we all learn also 👍
As always Gordon Good video!! You know what you are doing. I didn't see any damage other than the dust ring and that can be straightened like you did. I have learned alot from you and did a whole rebuild on my 12.7 from watching all your rebuild videos and it has 60,000 thousand plus miles on it and all the credit goes to you for showing me how to do it. Thank you and don't listen to the trolls that think they know more than anyone!
normally just one cut is all you need. don't even need to cut it all the way threw just most the way and smack it with a chisel to crack the cut the rest of the way and it will slide right off. just less chance of buggering anything up that way. yoke nuts are one time use lock nuts, if you re use the old one best to at least use lots of red lock tight but best to just use a new nut. but none the less good job you should have no issues with that carrier bearing.
I've been a diesel mechanic for 4 years now and I can tell you sir are a wise man I love watching your videos and keep doing what you do. Don't listen to these other people they have no idea what there talking about. Keep up the videos !
I always use the hot wrench to remove bearings, and have several 1 gal jugs of water close by for fire. When I get cut down to the inner bearing collar, just heat to cherry red in a small line, then smack the red area with a good hammer. The collar slides right off without further cutting. Good video!
Sounds like an alternative method, I would be a bit concerned about heating the shaft too much though while getting that inner race red hot. Cutting it with the oxygen is a lot quicker.
I have watched the whole series and you did a great job editing so it seems like each job was a seperate vedio . Big job and you have my admiration Gordon , drove trucks for 34 yr's and didn't have to work on them becaused they belonged to the employer .
Hey Gordon, perhaps one of these days you could do a quick down-n-dirty video for us newbies on what tools (socket sets, impact driver sizes, and other specialized items) you find most helpful for working on big trucks - granted, you have talked a bit about the jacks you use in previous videos. I understand it's much of what the typical mechanic needs, just bigger sizes of everything, but I'm curious to your opinion on what's worth buying if you want to work on your own heavy equipment. Maybe you could do a list of must-haves for this type of work? As always, love your videos! You're one of the most thorough techs on UA-cam for these kind of projects.
Just had it done on Volvo a couple days ago. Paid $250 in Newark NJ. That guy used the punch and a hammer method but he left the transmission side connected and supported the shaft with a jack stand. Mine didn’t have the slinger shield so he could just punch the bearing out from the underneath the cab. And put the new bearing in very carefully using the punch as well.
I noticed you did not mention the yoke needs to installed so it is in the same position as the other yoke on the other end of the shaft, to prevent vibration issues. If you look at a drive shaft that has welded yokes they are always aligned in the same place at both ends.
I was wondering if you timed your yokes on your drive line, I didn't hear you say anything about that. I would hate for someone new to trucking just put it on any old way and get their driveline out of time. I like your videos, I have the same truck as yours and do all my own work like you do.
Did you forget to show that when putting yoke back on to get in line with other end ( in time ) think what is called . Do enjoy watching what u do on trucks
Here’s a friendly time saving tip. Smash the bearing with a hammer, then cut a score in the race with a cut off wheel and smack it with a chisel and hammer. No need to cut the bearing with a torch. Once you smash it and get all the ball bearings out you can pull it off.
I went back and Watched your video pulling A trailer dammit man is there anything you cannot do good job sure can back that trailer up and I watched a little of when you build the Detroit engine but I will go back and finish them up Man that motor sounded pretty rough but you figure it out you are a good mechanic. Put in more video out please they are good
Just a little tip hi don't have to burn the inner race off use a cut off wheel and cut almost all the way through the race then hit the race in the cut u just made with a hammer and chizle and it will break and come loose
Good video. The Torch makes quick work of frozen parts. Did you synchronized, line up the yokes. I don't remember if they turn the same or opposite to be balanced? Thanks for taking the time to share your maintenance journey. 😁
Good video again I really enjoyed it I like The plywood deal that was pretty smart good mechanic work what kind of trailer do you pull with the truck be safe my friend keep up the good work
It's like working in close proximity to a deep fryer full of sizzling fries with stuff spattering all over, except that the smell off of the bearing grease isn't nearly as pleasant as the smell of fries cooking.
The inner race you can heat it red hot in a spot the size of a quarter, the hit it with the ball end of a ball peen hammer to distort it, turn it over do the same on other side, it will about fall off. And yes get a 4x4 with a groove in it to lay it on . Lastly slather it with anti seize. drive on with a piece of pipe.
Thanks for sharing, I am going to give that a try next time. Sounds like a good idea. I just rebuilt a pto box and I welded around the outter races and they fell right out of the caps. There was no other way to get them out without damaging the end caps.
I always called them hanger bearings (probably the slang term for them). Never seen one changed before, but then I've never kept a truck long enough to see either 20yrs, or one-and-a-half times around the odometer. Do those carrier or hanger bearings have a front and a back, or are they perfectly symmetrical, as far as which way you chose to put them on?
Not so crude to me, I do that a lot around here. I do have a lot more torch and welding experience than most mechanics do so for me it's just a routine. You know I'm not a mechanic anymore, haven't been for 30 years, I'm a O/O driver who likes to fix all my own equipment. Thanks for watching.
I had a one ton chevy that I couldn't get the vibration out of, turns out someone in the past must of torched the bearing off, the shaft was 1/8" out of true, who knows how hot they got it, but when I asked at the driveshaft shop they said they don't torch them off and some of my truck mechanic friends said the same thing. now I zip disk them.
It had 1.5 m. miles on it, it was well overdue. I can't say when it's time to change that, only if the rubber cushion is getting loose or if signs of the bearing getting dry. Take the driveshaft down at that point and give that bearing a spin and listen and feel for grinding or vibration. I'm doing good thank you, I hope all is well with you Myrna.
y take the whole shaft out i just seperate it removed all plastic from the actual barring and use an air hammer to get the barring out drive shaft never geta fully removed byt u guess that its a great way to teach new bees
Gordon Robertson the reason I ask is I just started the company as a heavy duty mechanic came with some experience, but I believe I accepted a low offer on my pay as I was told by another mechanic
While pondering your pay don't forget the workmans comp, health ins, sick day pay, vacation pay, all the equipment in the shop that you alone could never buy nor know how to use without them taking the time to teach you, uniforms, janitorial supplies, massive liability ins. for the shop. They pay for your accidents and mistakes that cost time and resources to cover. And then every job is a learning experience for your benefit. Not saying your getting a good deal but do remember you only get paid half of what they have to pay to keep you there. Good luck.
Pour some oil on it so it tempers it and cooling to fast wit water your asking for a sheared off drive shaft. I really hope you customer don't watch you as you working, cause if that was my truck I woulda stoped you as soon as you said cut the bearing and not heat it.
I don't mean to be that internet troll, but well done. You just ruined a $1000 drive shaft instead of buying a $30 puller. Way to anneal input shaft on your heavy duty drive shaft besides denting it and taking a chunk out with your torch. lol
Just like I thought, $1000 driveshaft: www.lkqheavytruck.com/part-detail/?store=13&partnum=1409183&partname=DRIVE-SHAFT,-REAR&make=FREIGHTLINER&model=CASCADIA
I talk too slow as it is, if I added profanity I would never get finished with what I want to say. Also, I never offended anyone by not using profanity but some people are offended by those who do.
This guy is doing everything wrong...First you never used the touch to cat the bearing out. Thats how you damage your driveline !!! I wouldn't want this guy to work on my truck !!!
I love this video, I love how detailed you get in how to destroy your drive line with a torch 😑
My destroyed drive line is pulling over gross loads everyday and will never have a failure due to this repair. YOU SIR know NOTHING about what you're talking about. Remember a "wise man has something to say and a foolish man has to say something".
Gordon Robertson mmmmm I know a little bit about what I’m talking about 😂, you coulda just used a grinder and impact hammer, less fuss and cleaner results but the old dogs like yourself love fucking things up with torches
I have changed 100’s of them and always used a torch
You seen it work with your own eyes! I would have never tried it out of fear until i seen it work with my own eyes. Its pretty bad when people dont believe there own two eyes. I could see the bearing steal was really really soft compared to the steal drive line. I dont think you should be working on any of your own stuff or anything for that matter, for your own safety, you might walk into a wall or bounce off a building or something....haha...
Brandon Montenegro what have you ever rebuilt youngster, Gordon did an engine overhaul in is driveway. Dang good mechanic
Absolutely love your videos. I’m a diesel mechanic started 4 years ago and without finding multiple videos of yours on UA-cam I would have been lost. Thanks for putting your time into these so we all learn also 👍
As always Gordon Good video!! You know what you are doing. I didn't see any damage other than the dust ring and that can be straightened like you did. I have learned alot from you and did a whole rebuild on my 12.7 from watching all your rebuild videos and it has 60,000 thousand plus miles on it and all the credit goes to you for showing me how to do it. Thank you and don't listen to the trolls that think they know more than anyone!
Thanks man, I appreciate the encouragement, glad to hear the videos are helping you.
normally just one cut is all you need. don't even need to cut it all the way threw just most the way and smack it with a chisel to crack the cut the rest of the way and it will slide right off. just less chance of buggering anything up that way. yoke nuts are one time use lock nuts, if you re use the old one best to at least use lots of red lock tight but best to just use a new nut. but none the less good job you should have no issues with that carrier bearing.
Thanks.
I've been a diesel mechanic for 4 years now and I can tell you sir are a wise man I love watching your videos and keep doing what you do. Don't listen to these other people they have no idea what there talking about. Keep up the videos !
Thanks.
Gordon is the McGyver of truck mechanics 👌👍🏻
Thanks for commenting.
@@57bagre 🙏🙏
I love your videos. I haven't had time to watch your others yet. I like your step by step. I hope I can meet you someday. Great job
Thanks for watching.
I am a apprentice diesel fleet mechanic at 52 years old..lol...great videos
Damn I thought I started my career late. 39 year old mechanic here with one year experience at a shop.
Hello. Thank you very much for that you are doing here. You really help me to understand how semi trucks parts works and how they can be replaced
Really love your channel I am an auto mechanic never realized how much alike it can be just xxxxl sized thanks for the knowledge
I always use the hot wrench to remove bearings, and have several 1 gal jugs of water close by for fire. When I get cut down to the inner bearing collar, just heat to cherry red in a small line, then smack the red area with a good hammer. The collar slides right off without further cutting.
Good video!
Sounds like an alternative method, I would be a bit concerned about heating the shaft too much though while getting that inner race red hot. Cutting it with the oxygen is a lot quicker.
I prefer using a grinder and impact chisel instead of a torch. But these type of repairs are always midevil anyway.
I have watched the whole series and you did a great job editing so it seems like each job was a seperate vedio . Big job and you have my admiration Gordon , drove trucks for 34 yr's and didn't have to work on them becaused they belonged to the employer .
Thanks John. I enjoy learning the editing and am also practicing for other kinds of videos.
Free Knowledge, I will take it 👍
Hey Gordon, perhaps one of these days you could do a quick down-n-dirty video for us newbies on what tools (socket sets, impact driver sizes, and other specialized items) you find most helpful for working on big trucks - granted, you have talked a bit about the jacks you use in previous videos. I understand it's much of what the typical mechanic needs, just bigger sizes of everything, but I'm curious to your opinion on what's worth buying if you want to work on your own heavy equipment. Maybe you could do a list of must-haves for this type of work?
As always, love your videos! You're one of the most thorough techs on UA-cam for these kind of projects.
I'll keep that in mind for a video when I don't have any new repairs to do. Thanks for watching Jae.
Just had it done on Volvo a couple days ago. Paid $250 in Newark NJ. That guy used the punch and a hammer method but he left the transmission side connected and supported the shaft with a jack stand. Mine didn’t have the slinger shield so he could just punch the bearing out from the underneath the cab. And put the new bearing in very carefully using the punch as well.
Thanks Gordon now I know a little more when looking for faults befor buying my next used truck Cheers
Thanks for watching Phillip.
I've done a couple, I like to use a 4" grinder with a cut off wheel. Mostly because I don't have ready access to a torch.
As always, respect to you Gordon.
I noticed you did not mention the yoke needs to installed so it is in the same position as the other yoke on the other end of the shaft, to prevent vibration issues. If you look at a drive shaft that has welded yokes they are always aligned in the same place at both ends.
I was wondering if you timed your yokes on your drive line, I didn't hear you say anything about that. I would hate for someone new to trucking just put it on any old way and get their driveline out of time. I like your videos, I have the same truck as yours and do all my own work like you do.
Did you forget to show that when putting yoke back on to get in line with other end ( in time ) think what is called . Do enjoy watching what u do on trucks
Phasing. If you don't phase it in, it will vibrate the teeth out of your head, going down the road.
Good shit Gordon
Here’s a friendly time saving tip. Smash the bearing with a hammer, then cut a score in the race with a cut off wheel and smack it with a chisel and hammer. No need to cut the bearing with a torch. Once you smash it and get all the ball bearings out you can pull it off.
That’s what I would do too
I went back and Watched your video pulling A trailer dammit man is there anything you cannot do good job sure can back that trailer up and I watched a little of when you build the Detroit engine but I will go back and finish them up Man that motor sounded pretty rough but you figure it out you are a good mechanic. Put in more video out please they are good
There's a lot of things I don't do well but when I can do OK I don't mind sharing. Thanks for watching.
Loved your video. I would have used the u-joint to pound the bearing into place.
The hard part lifting that heavy drive shaft up lying on ur back trying the u joint sleeve on
Just a little tip hi don't have to burn the inner race off use a cut off wheel and cut almost all the way through the race then hit the race in the cut u just made with a hammer and chizle and it will break and come loose
I really enjoy your videos, thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge God bless you.
Thank you sir.
Kudos for doing your own work! But that was very crude job
He's showing us how it's repaired (good!) in the field with basic tools. Keep 'em coming!!!
U are good using the torch nice job.
Thanks Rafa
How much would a shop charge for this you think
Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for watching.
Good video. The Torch makes quick work of frozen parts. Did you synchronized, line up the yokes. I don't remember if they turn the same or opposite to be balanced? Thanks for taking the time to share your maintenance journey. 😁
I just stuck it on, I'm sure the yoke is self balanced just like the shaft. It drives smooth.
The term is 'phase', to be in phase means that the crosses of the u joints are in line with each other, and not off by a few degrees.
Your a one man army!!
Its fixed..😉👍
What would be the symptoms a driver would feel if the carrier baring is worn and needs replacing?
Good video again I really enjoyed it I like The plywood deal that was pretty smart good mechanic work what kind of trailer do you pull with the truck be safe my friend keep up the good work
I usually pull a drop deck with steel coils on it. You can go to my playlists and see my driving videos.Thanks Glen.
Always fun torching something that has grease in it spitting back at you, got it off without nicking the splined stub.
It's like working in close proximity to a deep fryer full of sizzling fries with stuff spattering all over, except that the smell off of the bearing grease isn't nearly as pleasant as the smell of fries cooking.
This channel my favorite channel on UA-cam is 👍👍👍👍
thanks.
Good job Gordon
The hot wrench saves the day again :)
It saved me a million in tools.
Love your videos!!
Hopefully mine isn’t that stuck. I don’t have a torch. Maybe there is room for my puller.
Спасибо за ваше видео! Смотрим вас в России.
Google translation; "
Thanks for your video! See you in Russia."
the hammering don't really work best way to do this is grinder and a cutting wheel😁😁😁😁👏👏👏
The inner race you can heat it red hot in a spot the size of a quarter, the hit it with the ball end of a ball peen hammer to distort it, turn it over do the same on other side, it will about fall off. And yes get a 4x4 with a groove in it to lay it on . Lastly slather it with anti seize. drive on with a piece of pipe.
Thanks for sharing, I am going to give that a try next time. Sounds like a good idea. I just rebuilt a pto box and I welded around the outter races and they fell right out of the caps. There was no other way to get them out without damaging the end caps.
Before long you'll have a rebuilt semi
Great video! 👍
I always called them hanger bearings (probably the slang term for them). Never seen one changed before, but then I've never kept a truck long enough to see either 20yrs, or one-and-a-half times around the odometer. Do those carrier or hanger bearings have a front and a back, or are they perfectly symmetrical, as far as which way you chose to put them on?
I've never seen one changed before either, both sides looked to be the same so I just stuck it on.
Wear safety glasses ! An air hammer and a long punch will push the bearing off . Wear safety glasses !
Great work Gordon. Is the yoke clocked on the shaft splines by a master spline?
no. and it has no balance issues like the other comments are saying.
You got it done Gordon, but as a professional HD Mechanic, that was pretty crude
Not so crude to me, I do that a lot around here. I do have a lot more torch and welding experience than most mechanics do so for me it's just a routine. You know I'm not a mechanic anymore, haven't been for 30 years, I'm a O/O driver who likes to fix all my own equipment. Thanks for watching.
Another great video mr gordan.....but sir u should b wearing safety glasses 🇺🇸👍🏻
He had his safety squints on Mr safety. Yes he should be wearing safety glasses though.
by burning off the inner race you risk the chance of warping the spline. I didn't notice you checking the phase.
dude 8:50 the man cut in 3 phases. how would that warp the splines on that big ol shaft. 14:55 the yoke went on the splines fairly well.
I had a one ton chevy that I couldn't get the vibration out of, turns out someone in the past must of torched the bearing off, the shaft was 1/8" out of true, who knows how hot they got it, but when I asked at the driveshaft shop they said they don't torch them off and some of my truck mechanic friends said the same thing. now I zip disk them.
my brother paid $3000.00 for his driveline they suckered him thanks gordon.
Just heat it with a torch so you don't cut into the shaft, where the new on sits.
how do you know when its time to change that Mr. Gordon? como estas?
It had 1.5 m. miles on it, it was well overdue. I can't say when it's time to change that, only if the rubber cushion is getting loose or if signs of the bearing getting dry. Take the driveshaft down at that point and give that bearing a spin and listen and feel for grinding or vibration. I'm doing good thank you, I hope all is well with you Myrna.
Good Job Well Done " BUT " Why the hell don't you ware eye protection - your taking a chance if something hit's your eye .
What size sockets was that
did you align the yoke with the other end?
what'ts the socket zise?
Awesome
awww hell you messed up another kitchen towel
y take the whole shaft out i just seperate it removed all plastic from the actual barring and use an air hammer to get the barring out drive shaft never geta fully removed byt u guess that its a great way to teach new bees
Niceeee!! 👊🙏🏻
Any advice on when asking for a raise at a new job Gordon ?
I wouldn't ask unless I was more productive than the other workers who were getting the same or more than I am.
Gordon Robertson the reason I ask is I just started the company as a heavy duty mechanic came with some experience, but I believe I accepted a low offer on my pay as I was told by another mechanic
While pondering your pay don't forget the workmans comp, health ins, sick day pay, vacation pay, all the equipment in the shop that you alone could never buy nor know how to use without them taking the time to teach you, uniforms, janitorial supplies, massive liability ins. for the shop. They pay for your accidents and mistakes that cost time and resources to cover. And then every job is a learning experience for your benefit. Not saying your getting a good deal but do remember you only get paid half of what they have to pay to keep you there. Good luck.
Gordon Robertson thanks I feel much better man
Gordon Robertson Saludos...habla la experiencia...keep up your great work👏🙏✌👍
Pour some oil on it so it tempers it and cooling to fast wit water your asking for a sheared off drive shaft. I really hope you customer don't watch you as you working, cause if that was my truck I woulda stoped you as soon as you said cut the bearing and not heat it.
I don't mean to be that internet troll, but well done. You just ruined a $1000 drive shaft instead of buying a $30 puller. Way to anneal input shaft on your heavy duty drive shaft besides denting it and taking a chunk out with your torch. lol
junglejonny1000 a 1000 drive shaft? Where do you buy your parts? I can get you one for 150.00 bucks
Psst, hey buddy, driveshafts aren't hardened.
More like an armchair mechanic that's never touched a drive shaft in his life.
lol, yep... just an armchair mechanic that has never touched a drive shaft in my life lmao
Just like I thought, $1000 driveshaft: www.lkqheavytruck.com/part-detail/?store=13&partnum=1409183&partname=DRIVE-SHAFT,-REAR&make=FREIGHTLINER&model=CASCADIA
i like your videos,,,,,but you don't Cuss like other truck drivers do.
I talk too slow as it is, if I added profanity I would never get finished with what I want to say. Also, I never offended anyone by not using profanity but some people are offended by those who do.
This guy is doing everything wrong...First you never used the touch to cat the bearing out. Thats how you damage your driveline !!! I wouldn't want this guy to work on my truck !!!
U bent the fant
😎👍🏼
Good job Gordon
Thanks Zak
Good job Gordon
Thanks Ryan