ALL DONE! and everything works!!! Holy Smokes! We have a 2019 Mini Lite 2507s. I installed: LiTime 2000 watt inverter, 2 LiTime Lithium 100ah batteries, GoPower Auto Transfer Switch, upgraded WFCO 8955 (with jumper forced lithium), Victron Smartshunt 500a. I installed everything (except the ATS) in our bathroom large cupboard. The ATS was installed near our WFCO power center. Thank you for your videos, Michael...they really helped me.
YAY YAY YAY YAY I'm so happy for you, you're going to love this set up, way to go! Are you on Facebook if so and if you have not not done so already I recommend you join the "Rockwood Mini Lite-Flagstaff Micro Lite Fan Club" Group, They are a awesome group. facebook.com/groups/1901493023470645 www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Yes, I'm on there. You should see my posting and schematic on the comments with pics. We're going camping for 7 days this afternoon, no power at the site, so we'll see. I also have the bluetti lithium ac200max and B230 which gives me another 3.5 lithium equivalent batteries with 3 solar panels, so we should be rocking it!
Got her done. I watched your video for at least the 10th time, and saw what I had missed the first nine times. All well - it went without a hitch, and it's up and running. Just have to mount the remote switch for the inverter. Thanks!
That's great, I'm so happy it all worked out so you can go and enjoy your camping trip. Thanks for letting me know, you are going to like this set up :)
Thank you Michael. You are the first video which seems to be well thought out and fully diagramed and does not involve adding a $1500.00 inverter charger with $2500.00 in solar panels. This is exactly what I was looking for. Adding an inverter with an existing charger/converter. This is my first solar system for the trailer and I didn't want to go all in at once. I have 2-100 watt panels and 2-100 amp hour 6 volt batteries. When the batteries need replacing I will step up to 400 watts and 400 amp hours. My design is a little different in that I did not use the 15 amp fuse as you did. My AC panel had a separate, unused breaker bus bar. My charger was designed to plug into the back of the AC panel. With this existing set up I used the empty breaker bar to add a second 30/15 amp breaker and run 10/2 from the transfer switch to the secondary 30 amp and then using the 15 amp to provide service to the existing charger outlet service. Thanks again. Let me know if you are still enjoying your system after a year of service.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write, your compliments, and for sharing what you are doing. Its been a year and everything is still working great and I'm very happy with it. I'm so happy I did this it makes life better and with the solar I find us not having to use the generator anymore if the sun is out charging the batteries. So this helps by not having to hear the generator noise to :) Here's a great video that just came out about batteries that you might enjoy watching - ua-cam.com/video/2BsSWCc66_w/v-deo.html also have you watched my video where I installed another 200 watts of panels so now I have 400 watts (I did this in January 2020 and it sure helps recharge the batteries much quicker)? We camp a lot and have traveled over 20,000 miles in the last 3 years, unfortunately this pandemic has been keeping us home more with all the campgrounds closed. Here's the 400 watt install video - ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html Here's all my videos if you have not watched them - ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html
@@thetraveltrailerguy so far so good! Still want to add 2 more batteries. Very well thought out plan you had. Made my install so much easier. How are you liking yours?
@@brianlucas1140 We really really like it a lot. 95% of our camping is without hook ups and its so nice to have power whenever we want it without firing up a generator. I'm happy we switched over to lithium batteries to, did you see this install?
I watched this several times and printed off the wiring. Then I went to work. It turned out excellent, Thanks so much for the step by step and pictures. I could not have done it without you
Sorry for the delayed response. Done it different but it works for me. Thank you for being so willing to help people. You are a true gentleman. I also got an email sent to you.
Well done. Made it easy to understand. I was going to do the inverter install without a transfer switch. And try to get my wife to understand what she needed to turn on/off to make the thing work. But the transfer switch is cheap enough, and you made the install look easy... to understand. A little work to get it there, but looks well worth it.
Its funny I was going to do the same thing you were thinking about doing until I discovered the Automatic Transfer Switch. I'm sure glad I did it this way. I provided links in the description for some of the things you would need to do the installation. Have fun :)
I had forgotten you did this, I’m working on a similar project but I have two transfer switches that are 50 amp as well as the same inverter. My plan is to put a transfer switch in the back where my shore-power goes in. Initially I was going to stop there and be done. Then manually plug in the generator or inverter, this way I wouldn’t have to run my main shore power cable anymore. But you know I can’t stop there, right. So I’m using a 2nd transfer switch in the front to automatically switch from the inverter to the generator when it turns on to charge the batteries or run the a/c. The beauty of it is that the inverter power will only be wired on one leg, the leg it won’t power is the converter, fireplace, water heater, and A/C. But I’m going to use a jumper on my generator side of the connection so that when the generator flips on (by remote) the converter will flip on and charge the batteries. I have the wires all ran, just have to finish wiring and caulk everything up. There will be a short 4-5 ft cord I’ll have to manually plug into the generator, when I setup but besides pulling the tray out and plugging in, everything is automatic
Your welcome Scott and thanks for watching. I've had this set up for a year and so far everything is still working great. Its nice not having to hear the generator anymore with solar power
Sorry it took me so long to reply, I wasn't notified of your comment and just saw it now. Thank you for watching and your comment :) www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Thank you so much Richard. I do my best to explain what I do in my videos so others can learn from them. I really like this set up it works great. Thank you for watching - ua-cam.com/video/hXan0VqZnfQ/v-deo.html
Here's my amazon affiliate links to most of the items purchased for this installation - 200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter: amzn.to/38FmZdY Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - amzn.to/3vmkerD Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter - amzn.to/3vmkgQh Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery - amzn.to/30FmYSW 2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter - amzn.to/3eLyap4 (For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet - amzn.to/3hvuAkv (For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp - amzn.to/3uRpwuw On off switch battery switch to inverter - amzn.to/3vjVZKR Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter - amzn.to/2NokG7K 10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch - amzn.to/3jCvpre 8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer - www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI... 15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2 15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
This is great Michael....I have a Mini LIte and just bought 2 = 100 lithium batteries to replace my AGM batteries. Also I'm waiting for my 2000 Inverter and probably will order the Victron Smart Shunt Battery Monitor (bluetooth/waterproof). I've been doing alot of video watching, and this is by far the best video :)
Thank you so much, have you seen my other videos. Links to the products I use are always in the description below the videos. (See more videos below) Battle Born Lithium Batteries & Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger Installation - Step by Step ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.html Victron Smart Shunt is a Great Way to Monitor Your RV Batteries - Here's my Installation ua-cam.com/video/ksCivLNIzEQ/v-deo.html Solar Installation Upgrade from 200 Watts to 400 Watts on Our Travel Trailer (Series or Parallel ?) ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html Link to all my videos - www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
@@thetraveltrailerguy yes, I watched a few, and have used your video on the Dometic 310 toilet installation to update our plastic toilet to the same 310 toilet a couple of weeks ago :) I do have a question: I am a little confused on both the "shore power" connection, and the A/C power connection (30amp circuit breaker). For the A/C (30 amp circuit breaker) - do you disconnect that and its other 2 wires from inside the converter box and connect those wires into the transfer switch and then run a new wire from inside the transfer switch back to the converter box to replace those connections? For the shore power connection: I see you are using a junction box for that line. Is it cut in half? Can you explain more on that connection please? Thank you so much.
@@KJC63 Question: For the A/C (30 amp circuit breaker) - do you disconnect that and its other 2 wires from inside the converter box and connect those wires into the transfer switch and then run a new wire from inside the transfer switch back to the converter box to replace those connections? Me: The answer is yes Question: For the shore power connection: I see you are using a junction box for that line. Is it cut in half? Can you explain more on that connection please? Thank you so much. Me: I installed the junction box because the wire would have not been long enough so I added and connected the additional wire in the box so it would reach its destination. - ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.html
You did a good job for someone who's never done this before. Try installing a fuse as close as physically possible to the positive battery terminal (several inches). This will protect the wiring from catching fire if there is a short caused by an accident, rodent damage etc. How do you like the inverter? Are the fans noisy? Do they always run when the inverter is on? Have you noticed any radio interference from the inverter, like when you listen to AM band on the radio? This is very important to me because I have a shortwave ham radio in my travel trailer. Some inverters put out a lot of 'hash' noise on many radio bands.
Thank you Andrew. I know I should have placed the fuse closer to the battery, I should have. I'm not to worried but I may change it someday. I really like the inverter its really quite and I don't even hear the fan and my head is right next to it inside the trailer while lying on our bed. I would have gotten back to you yesterday but I wanted to physically go out to the trailer and check for interference with a AM radio. What I found was that while inside the trailer around 2 feet from the inverter the radio had static but I could still hear the music playing as I stepped away the static decreased and stopped at 5-6 feet away. Remember the inverter is located in the storage compartment and has a thin piece of paneling separating it from the inside of the trailer. I hope this information helps you
Thank you Todd, I'm happy this is helpful. Feel free to ask me questions in the future and I will do my best to answer them. Here's links to most of the items purchased for this installation - 200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter: amzn.to/38FmZdY Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - amzn.to/3vmkerD Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter - amzn.to/3vmkgQh Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery - amzn.to/30FmYSW 2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter - amzn.to/3eLyap4 (For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet - amzn.to/3hvuAkv (For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp - amzn.to/3uRpwuw On off switch battery switch to inverter - amzn.to/3vjVZKR Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter - amzn.to/2NokG7K 10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch - amzn.to/3jCvpre 8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer - www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI... 15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2 15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
Thank you for watching, commenting and for the feedback Joshua. I'm so happy it was helpful to you. Have fun and feel free to ask questions if you need to, I do my best to respond as quickly as possible. Mike
Great video, it's well made and easy to follow. Still not sure i'll follow the automated transfer switch or not. I wanted to use extension cord plug unto the inverter and then back to the shore power outlet outide and just turn on/off the needed breakers. But your installation is great and very professionnal.
Thank you Eric, I really like how this project turned out. The Automatic Transfer Switch is a great thing to have so everything is powered up when we need it (note: we can't run the AC unit with the set up we have). If you don't install the switch I like your idea of using the cord, just make sure you have a heavy duty extension cord for this. Thanks so much for watching and commenting. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
@@thetraveltrailerguy I have a motorhome so I also have an onboard generator. Still unsure how to wire everything to the transfer switch. I'll most likely use my 30amp extension cord and just plug it into my inverter. It's a big wire. On the inverter you simply use a little 30amp to 15amp adapter. The only thing difficult would be to find an access port from the outside to the inside of the motorhome near the inverter. Still searching for best solution.
@@TheCadillacLyriq Awesome, I hope you can get back to me someday to let me know how you like it? Can you send me a link to what you buy so I can check it out? Thanks
It’s an inverter/charger and transfer switch. All in one device. But now after checking the available space I have to mount the thing I'm a bit screwed. I have almost no room close to the batteries. I might endup keeping my existing charger and simply add a transfer switch and an inverter exactly like you did to save some space.
This was very thorough thank you. I see you only have Shore power coming in. How does this work if you have a onboard generator? So basically you have 3 source of input into the transfer switch (shore power, generator, and inverter). Look forward to your response. Thanks.
Thank you, I really like this modification. So the way this works for me when connected to shore power the electrical panel power is supplied through the pedestal power through the transfer switch: same thing happens when I connect the portable generator; and when not connected to shore or generator power I turn on the inverter and it supplies power to the electrical panel. To be honest I'm not sure how a on board generator would work through this automatic transfer switch. Question(s) - How is your generator wired in now? When you turn on the generator does it supply power directly to your electrical panel to power everything in the RV?
There is a transfer switch onboard with inputs from the shore power and generator. The generator is considered primary power source and provides power to the panel and converter to charge the lithium battery. I haven't seen too many people posting on this setup and was wondering if you or others have considered this. Thanks.
@@commonsenseapproach7848 I'm so sorry I don't have an answer but its possible someone else has a UA-cam video out there that shows their solution and/or you can contact Go Power and ask them, they are very helpful 1-866-247-6527 I spoke with Bob Lane (not sure if he is still there) he seemed to be very knowledgeable and helpful.
Great video. WFCO has an upgraded charger to lithium now. plug and play if you ever chose switch out your batts to lithium. That behind said, all 4 Renogy Life-PO4 batts are in my camper behind convert/panel and original house batt +/- wires out of converter are still factory frame mounted to bumper hitch. I'm thinking of tapping into positive fused direct to battery bank so breakaway break switch still fuctions. Since your batts are up front, I assume you connected directly there? Wire costs are of the freaking charts these days so consolidation was my plan!
Thank you and thanks so much for watching. I still really like this 2000 watt inverter and automatic transfer switch, they are game changers. I've done a few more improvements since this video: Solar Installation Upgrade from 200 Watts to 400 Watts on Our Travel Trailer - ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html Battle Born Lithium Batteries & Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger Installation - Step by Step - ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.html Victron Smart Shunt is a Great Way to Monitor Your RV Batteries - Here's my Installation - ua-cam.com/video/ksCivLNIzEQ/v-deo.html Link to all my videos, feel free to subscribe if you haven't done so already - www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Nice video! I'm looking to install an inverter & automatic transfer switch in my keystone which is "inverter prepped" - essentially you splice into romex after the panel (before the outlets). This is what prevents the 12v charger from being powered from the inverter. The question I have is the grounding - the transfer switch seems to have a ground bar. I assume I can bridge inverter to it, and connect the romex on each end to it. Shoudl i need to do anthing else with it?
I'm pretty sure this will work as long as either the inverter or transfer switch is grounded to the frame then they can be grounded together. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Curious about when you are connected to shore power if the converter charger and solar panels are both charging batteries? I assume charge controller and upgraded converter charger are both charging at the same time. Guess that would be ok. And I like the remotes switch idea. Great job, I have the same trailer just different configuration. Thank you very much for your time making the video, great help
Thanks for watching, and your question & comments. Yes when we are connected to shore power with the solar charging the batteries the converter charger will come on if the batteries fall below into lower levels and will turn off once they reach a level where the solar panels are significantly charging them again
I appreciate that your video focuses on travel trailers. Most focus on motor homes which have a lot more room to work withs, so thanks. A question re: your transfer switch and charger/converter. Is there a reason you didn't go with an inverter with an ATS and converter built in? Is it b/c you already had an ATS and charger/converter and it was more economical to just buy the inverter, or is there a benefit to having separate components?
Thank you Jeffery. That's a good question.......I just went this route because I was just using what I had to avoid additional cost. In the future I may replace my lead acid batteries with Lithium batteries and at that time I may have to change out my charger/controller at the same time. If I do this I will share a video on the process. (I'm on the fence on replacing the lead acid batteries, the lead acid batteries have been working fine for me so far, I'm waiting to see how long they last)
Thank you for commenting, asking a question and watching. Here's Links that you may like showing the battery install of the lead acid batteries ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html and the lithium batteries I installed ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.html and the Smart Shunt I installed ua-cam.com/video/ksCivLNIzEQ/v-deo.html And a link to all my videos - ua-cam.com/users/MichaelBracewellTheTravelTrailerGuyvideos Note: I do my best to have links to the products I use in the description area below each video that may be helpful to you
Perfect video! Exactly what I was looking for. I am doing the exact same thing. I have a couple questions for you: this may sound dumb but I’m in electrical newbie- How come you used 10/3 wire from the inverter to the AC panel? Doesn’t 10/3 have two hots? Also, Why didn’t you ground the transfer switch to the grounding bus bar of the main AC panel? Seems like that would’ve been easier than drilling through and installing a new chassis ground. Again, thanks for all your help. You saved me a ton of time
That's great I'm happy this helped you. Here's a link to the 10/3 wire - amzn.to/3jCvpre I used the 10/3 wire because of the distance I was running it and so it would be sized a little larger in case I wanted to upsize my inverter in the future. I could have wired the ground as you mentioned but I decided to just attach it to the frame instead, it can be done either way :) 200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter: amzn.to/38FmZdY Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - amzn.to/3vmkerD Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter - amzn.to/3vmkgQh Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery - amzn.to/30FmYSW 2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter - amzn.to/3eLyap4 (For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet - amzn.to/3hvuAkv (For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp - amzn.to/3uRpwuw On off switch battery switch to inverter - amzn.to/3vjVZKR Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter - amzn.to/2NokG7K 10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch - amzn.to/3jCvpre 8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer - www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI... 15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2 15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
@@thetraveltrailerguy thanks! Huge help. Oh one last question- for the 15amp fuse you installed for the controller, does it have to be an fnm fuse? Could I just use an inline glass fuse? Thabks!
great video, but there's only one question. Why are you using 6v battery bank instead of 12? I would think it would be easy to throw a breaker on this type.
Thank you for watching and your question Dennis. Having 4 - 6 volt batteries supply more amp hours than 2 - 12 volt batteries so this is why I went this route. I later replaced these 6 volt batteries with 2 lithium Battle Born 12 volt batteries, they may cost more (you can find them on sale around holidays) but will last longer since you can drain them all the way down rather than with the lead acid batteries where you can only drain them down to only 50%; another advantage to Lithium Batteries is they recharge much faster than lead acid batteries and have a much longer life. Here's the video showing me installing the Lithium batteries and what I had to do to accomplish this. ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.htmlsi=Ykm_wLpyKMXsbpsa
What a superbly done video Michael, and thank you so much for providing it. I have been struggling to fully understand how to do exactly what you have accomplished here for some time, and thanks to you I finally do! The only issue that I have with your instructions and wiring method is that there is no longer a way to turn off the converter beside pulling the new 15A fuse that you installed in the transfer box. I previously installed an upgraded charger section made by Progressive Dynamics in my old Magnatek unit that has a bulk phase charging current of 30A, which when engaged really maxes out my 2.8 KW Onan genny when I also run my AC off of it. I'm thinking that all I would need to do would be to install a switch in my converter/charger hot lead before it's connection in the transfer switch. I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that when it's turned off I would still have 12V available throughout the RV. Does that sound doable to you, or do you have a better suggestion?
Thank you for watching, I appreciate it. I do these videos to try and help others. Regarding your questions/comments - "The only issue that I have with your instructions and wiring method is that there is no longer a way to turn off the converter beside pulling the new 15A fuse that you installed in the transfer box." This is true that the way I have this wired I would have to pull the fuse to disconnect the converter, I may be installing a shut off switch in the near future prior to the fuse and this should be easy to do. I have a 3500 watt and 2000 watt inverter generator's and when I run the 2000 watt and the converter/charger is charging my batteries with the full amps it provides (from the converter/charger) and I run my microwave the 2000 watt generator will kick out....but once the batteries are charged and the converter/charger is not putting out much to the batteries the microwave will run and off the 2000 watt generator not problem. I am 99% sure that when the converter/charger is turned off the trailer will still have 12 volts available throughout the RV , one way to tell if this is true is to turn the converter/charger off and see if you still have 12 volt power to everything (this is something I will try soon since you brought it up and I will reply back with how it went) - Here's the switch I was thinking about getting - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KPEFL2I/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thanks a bunch for the reply! I'm no electrician, and I'm glad I ran this by you, as I didn't think that I would need to buy a switch that switches both hot and neutral legs. Nice looking switch too! I did check to see if 12V is still available with the charger is turned off and you're right, no worries there...
@@cwsmith7366 We are thinking the same. I just installed a 16 amp on/off switch yesterday on the power box cover (just under the door) and connected the wires from the inverter/converter directly to it and it works great. Here's what I bought from the shelf at Home Depot - www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-16-Amp-LED-Illuminated-Round-Hole-Rocker-Switch-GSW-50/205971618?cm_mmc=hd_email-_-A-BR2-_-20190717_RTGSMART_3410293-_-BRT_Product_Hero_Image&et_rid=69913157
@@thetraveltrailerguy Nice looking switch. I was going to use a leftover SPST 20A rocker switch mounted in the same area but I think Ill buy one of the one you used too. Nice looking, big enough and I like the fact that it's also lit when on. However, my thinking is that it only needs to be installed in the hot wire going to the converter. Is that what you did? You said the inverter/converter, and I'm guessing you meant to say charger/converter?
Great job on the video and install. I had been looking for a relatively simple install for the transfer box for my Rockwood Roo to incorporate my solar panels and existing power with generator and power inverter. (My setup is almost identical to yours.... I also have 4 - 6v batteries). I eventually found your channel with a nice clear explanation of how to install the transfer switch.... THANKS! I did take a snap shot of your transfer box from your video and labeled all the components and made a PDF file of it. I also have another PDF of my planned wiring schematic. Would you be interested in me sending them to you to see if I have the wiring correct. - Thanks again for the nice work and effort in sharing it. - JOHN
Thank you so much for your compliments John, I appreciate it. It would be great if you can send me your PDF, I would love to see it. You can email me at . If you can can you please put Transfer Switch PDF in the subject line so I know its you?
Thanks for reply. I loosened the screws till they fell out and there still wasn't enough room - could be newer models of the 2000 watt Renogy have less tolerance/"slop". But I got it done. Next question involves the exact wires/cables going to the transfer switch. The leads from the inverter and the shore line are no brainers. What isn't real clear is EXACTLY which cable(s) in the converter/charger go where. The incoming orange cable from the shore power plug is now going to the transfer switch. Actually a brand new orange cable is coming in from the shore plug to the transfer switch, so the original orange cable is still connected to the 30-amp breaker in the panel. Where does that go? Is that now the "panel" lead that goes to the transfer switch, or is it the "charger" (converter) lead? Let's say it's the "Panel" lead. In that case, exactly what cable becomes the "charger" (converter) lead? Your video just flashed by these connections with out delving into the details. I think you spliced in a section of orange wire, but that isn't clear (at least to me!). Overall it's a GREAT video! I just need some clarification. If you're out of communication, I hope others will let me know the exact details. We're supposed to be leaving in two days, but not if I can't compete this project. 🙂
I sure hope this answers your question, if not please let me know. Sorry for the confusion. "Let's say it's the "Panel" lead. In that case, exactly what cable becomes the "charger" (converter) lead?" Watch the video here that explains how to do this - ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=RkN5KiQoZcvODL7Z&t=914 "The incoming orange cable from the shore power plug is now going to the transfer switch. Actually a brand new orange cable is coming in from the shore plug to the transfer switch, so the original orange cable is still connected to the 30-amp breaker in the panel. Where does that go? Is that now the "panel" lead that goes to the transfer switch, or is it the "charger" (converter) lead?" Look at this picture and to see the 110 volt wiring for shore power and AC panel wiring ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=LG8N9W-kOZhQsmpD And watch the video here - ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=DSXwAnEs6lWJalro&t=1378
You're using Go Powers GP-TS but you're linking TS-30? Which switch did you go with? I'm looking to do this but I don't need a transfer switch for the generator/shore power. I just want to wire my inverter to power the whole rv
Good catch :) I went with this switch (link to it is in the description below video) If you open the link you will see the TS-30 and if you open the other picture on it you will see the diagram that I show in the video that says GP-TS. Here is the link to what I installed - Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - amzn.to/3vmkerD
Hi Michael, great video and explanations. I have a battery charger, Gen set and a transfer switch (Progressive Dynamics) but NO Inverter. I noticed that you show the Gen set and shore power going to the same terminals, I realize that you don't use both at the same time or are you showing it to be hookup for one or the other. With all the youtube stuff out there yours makes the most sense but my head is spinning from all the info. I want to hook up a 3000W unit and my shore power is 50 Amps. At some point I want to do solar. By the way, I'm a newbie to RV'ing.
Hello Joseph, thank you so much. What is happening on mine is that the Shore Power / Generator (not an onboard generator but a portable generator) plug is on the side of the trailer and I plug in either shore power from it into a electrical service source. When not connected into a electoral service source I plug the generator into the side of the trailer. I'm not sure if this makes any sense to you? I bet your head is spinning, mine sure was from watching so many videos on doing this before I did and after I hooked it all up I did a triple check to make sure everything was right before I closed my eye and tried it. It worked as planned :) Are you saying you want to hook up to a 3000 watt inverter? If so what would you like to run with the inverter? What batteries do you have and how many? Solar is the way to go, I really enjoy ours. Welcome to RVing you are going to love it. Have you seen my other videos (around 50 of them) and have you subscribed? I will be coming out with some more videos in the near future.
I see you grounded the converter in the AC panel and the inverter in the switch. How about everything else. A brief description would be so helpful. Thanks in advance.
@@gene_in_real_life if you skip to 20:36 minutes into the video you will see the green ground wire that comes from the automatic transfer switch through the wall and then goes down through the floor, I then connected the green ground wire to the trailer frame of the trailer directly below the floor where the wire comes out. At 22:50 minutes into the video I explain where the green wire goes. And at 22:29 minutes you can see where I connected the green wire in the Automatic transfer switch box. Here's the link to the transfer switch, this also shows the wiring digram I am refering to in the video - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00153EYTO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I sure hope this answers your question, if not please let me know
excellent video, just installed the same system on my trailer, does your inverter have to be on to work the lights only, or does it come directly from your battery. My electrician installed mine where my inverter has to be on to use outlets.
Thank you James. Our inverter does not have to be on to operate our interior lights but our battery shut off switch located by the batteries does since the lights operate on 12 volts (does you inverter have to be on in order to turn on interior lights?). Our inverter must be on in order to use power from the 110 volt outlets since the inverter converts 12 volt power to 110 volts. I hope this helps you answer your questions. Thanks for watching, commenting and asking questions. This is how we all learn
Thanks so much for watching and commenting :) Great question, I thought about wrapping the wiring but felt it wasn't necessary since there are other wires under the trailer that are very similar and are doing fine plus they are all protected from the weather elements so they should be fine. I did this close to 3 years ago and the wires still look like the day I installed them. I must say I'm very happy with how this project worked out and works for us, its so nice to be able to flip a switch and have everything powered up with 110 volts. I'm not sure if you are a subscriber but I want to give you a heads up.....My four 6 volt batteries are close to 4 years old and have been great but I've decided to change them out to Lithium batteries. You might like watching this video, keep an eye out for it. Take care
It may be but its nice to have power to run these things. Most of our camping is without hookups and we camp around 100+ days a year so for us its worth it. And a bonus is we hardly ever have to run our generator. Thanks for watching :)
Great video, been looking through a lot of them for this kind of install. What if I use a DC-DC charger with MPPT for later solar set-up. instead of the RV charger, how do you recommend wiring it up? Any feedback would helpful.
Thank you and thank you for watching. This link may answer your questions, it also has a wiring diagram - www.renogy.com/dcc30s-12v-30a-dual-input-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/
Thanks for a great video. I'm curious why you chose 4 6v batteries vs. the "high tech" stuff. Also wondering about the total ah's for the 4 6v'ers. BTW I'm headed down this rabbit hole for my 19ft. 1985 bigfoot. Upgraded with on demand propane hot water heater and efficient 120v/12v propane-less fridge. 200w solar with battery charger/controller. Hope to hear from you. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to write. The 4 - 6 volt batteries have a total amp hours of 840 or 210 AH per battery but since you should only run the battery to no less than 50% you can only use 420 AH. The total weight for the 4 batteries is 232 pounds. I went this route because of limited money I had at the time. A few years later replaced the 4 - 6 volt lead acid batteries with 2 - 12 volt Battle Born 100 AH Lithium Batteries (I highly recommend going with Lithium batteries, they can be run down to 0%, recharge much faster than lead acid batteries, are a much lighter battery, and last many more years to) Here's the video - ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.htmlsi=t4uF-aXh4Txk_auF Watch this video also - ua-cam.com/video/ksCivLNIzEQ/v-deo.htmlsi=9zZBqq7hPuE_69bh I hope this information is helpful, feel free to ask more questions if you like. Michael Bracewell "The Travel Trailer Guy" is a Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying Amazon purchases by you using the Amazon links below at no additional cost to you. Thank you Total Cost is around $500 for everything May 2019 Here's links to most of the items purchased for this installation - 10/2 NM-B x 15' Non-Metallic Electrical Cable - amzn.to/3SvdYeH 200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter: amzn.to/38FmZdY 30 Amp Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - amzn.to/3vmkerD If you have 50 Amps you will need the automatic transfer switch (the 30 amp will not work on a 50 amp RV) - amzn.to/3aXesau Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter - amzn.to/3vmkgQh Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery - amzn.to/30FmYSW 2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter - amzn.to/3eLyap4 (For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet - amzn.to/3hvuAkv (For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp - amzn.to/3uRpwuw On off switch battery switch to inverter - amzn.to/3vjVZKR Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter - amzn.to/2NokG7K 10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch - amzn.to/3jCvpre 8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer - www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI... 15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2 15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thank you very much for your response. I would like to take you up on your offer for another question. If I send you a short comprehensive list of appliances and then a short list of equipment that I think I should buy, would you kindly assess that list and correct me or suggest better alternatives? Regardless, I will make a point of purchasing my equipment through your links to Amazon.
Tankless hot water heater=12V 3.8A Fridge=12V 5.6A Electric kettle 120V 1100W Microwave 120V 900A Toaster 120V 1000W. Lights are all LED. Portable A/C unit 120V 1100W Intend to buy; 200A Lithium (2x100A) or 1x230W 2000W Renogy inverter 2x100W Solar panel with Bateria Solar Charge Controller 20A (max 300W ) Renogy 500A Battery monitor Go Power TS-30A Auto Transfer Switch.. A inline 30A fuse 12V. between the battery and inverter. I thought I would retain the existing 12V/120V fuse/breaker panel and add a fuse block with bus bar for future minor expansion such as 12V radio. The camper has a 30A 120V extension cable for shore power. Please offer any advice/suggestion you deem necessary to help me avoid any mistake. Thank you in advance. Wolfgang
@@montwolfman Sounds like you have a fun and worth while project on your hands. Couple questions: 1) Do you have a link to share with me to a trailer that is like yours so I can see exactly what you have (maybe there is a video on line showing one)? 2) How often do you you plan on going camping where you have no hook ups? 3) How many days per year do you camp? 4) Do you have a generator? If so what one do you have? 5) What state do you live in? A state you can camp year round or just during the spring and summer months? 6) What brand batteries are you looking at? I'm thinking you should buy this set up if you can afford it, it may be a little more money but its worth it and if you don't you will wish you did later. The solar charge controller is very efficient and you can see what everything is doing your smart phone. I originally bought 2 - 100watt panels and later added 2 more because I found I could get better charging of the batteries on not so clear days. amzn.to/3zgGM3X Have you watched these videos? ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.htmlsi=2dyEmQQs1TctPGVm ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.htmlsi=gkLwHFVizrmPFkoE
@@thetraveltrailerguy Hi Michael. Thank you for your reply. 1) Sorry no link but it's a 1987 Bigfoot 19ft. Worth the investment because of the single seam in the middle design. 2) Have not been camping but plan to 4 or 5 times a year, 3 or 4 days at a time from late spring to early fall due to Utah's harsh winters. We live in N.E. Utah...a long days drive takes you to sunny Az. N.M. 4) I own an Onan 3.5kw. Prefer to use it only when all else fails (lack of Sun etc. 5) Considering LItime 23ah or DCHouse 200ah or 2x LItime100ah. Not sure what to choose. Prefer slight overkill to allow for future expansion. Thanks for the video links. I'll watch them shortly.
I just found a couple of Renogy 200 W Solar Flexible Kit 20 amp or 50 amp. What is your opinion on the flexible panels? Would like to have solar installed on our 2506, but so confused as to what we need to make this happen.
Great Vid! How many amp hours are your batteries? Also from your diagram, it looks like the generator and shore tie together in at the ATS. I have a generator as well, so just find my leads and connect per your diagram? PS: Sure like the way you teach/spell things out! Happy New Year!!
Thank you Blaine and thank you for watching. Here's link to the Interstate batteries I used from Costco (best price) - www.costco.com/interstate-6-volt-golf-cart-battery.product.100476406.html / Its important to know you can only run these batteries down to 50% or they will become damaged. Specifications: Group Size: GC2 Part Number: 9-GC2-UTL Voltage: 6 Reserve Capacity(RC) @ 25Amps: 105 Reserve Capacity(RC) @ 75Amps: 175 Amp Hours(Ah) @ 20Hr: 210 Amp Hours(Ah) @ 5Hr: 175 Length: 10 5/16" Width: 7 1/8" Height: 11" Weight: 58lbs Keep your eye out for a video I should be putting out in a couple weeks of me changing out these batteries (that are still working fine) to 2 - 12 volt lithium Battle Born Batteries (Amazon Affiliate Link - amzn.to/31VinjM ) and installing a new converter/charger to charge them. Yes just connect your 110 volt 30 amp wires into the Automatic Transfer Switch that come from the power inlet on the side of your trailer. When you plug into shore power it will do its thing automatically and if you are plugged into your generator it will recognize the power as shore power and work the same. Thanks so much for your comments, you made my day. Have you seen my other videos? - ua-cam.com/users/MichaelBracewellTheTravelTrailerGuyvideos
@@thetraveltrailerguy Super fast response, thx. Trying to run same inverter, but only 125ah. Tech support says I need 10% of rated output of my inverter. So 200ah, thats why I checked with you, those 6v of yours are STRONG.
I've watched a lot of videos on inverter installs but this one made the most sense to me, especially since I have a similar trailer (2018 Flagstaff Microlite 25BRDS). Many of the videos go way too fast - thanks for taking the time to explain thoroughly. You did a great job! Did you consider removing the corrugated plastic membrane from the bottom of the trailer before doing the install and then reattaching later?
Thank you Ross for the great feedback and for watching. I'm lucky that our trailer did not come with the corrugated plastic membrane and I have found no need to put on on since we live in California and have found that the trailer stay plenty warm for us. we do travel to other states and have been in very cold conditions and have not had a problem with heating the inside of the trailer. Good catch on seeing there is no cover on the bottom, out of the 47,000+ people to watch this video you are the first one to catch this :)
One detail you didn't address is how you eliminate powering the refrigerator from the inverter. Is your refrigerator not powered by shore power (120 volts)?
You brought up a great question and I should have mentioned this in the video. Our refrigerator can be powered off either shore power and propane. When I started using this system I noticed the batteries draining a little faster than I thought they would with our power usage and and I finally figured out that is was the refrigerator. Since or refrigerator can run on either shore power or just propane I switch it to gas only when using our inverter.
Which side of the transfer switch did you wire your inverter into? There's three sets of wires on the transfer switch, one is shore power in, second is generator, and third is panel......also, what process do you go through to get your batteries to charge? Just shut down inverter?
You can pause the video at 4:09 minutes to see how everything is wired or open the Amazon link to the Automatic transfer switch and then open the second picture of the product to see the wiring diagram. - amzn.to/3vmkerD The batteries will only charge if the inverter is turned off and if you are hooked up to shore power: or generator: or if you have solar
@@thetraveltrailerguy thanks Mike. I have a different model transfer switch, and the same inverter (but the 3000) and a couple of other people had their hands in the wiring after I originally set it up, so it wasn't charging, and I had to determine if it was an issue of needing a sub panel etc to connect it or if there was another possible issue causing it not to charge. Your answer is right in line with my original installation, so I removed what the campground "electrician" did and went back to my original setup which is pretty much what you have, and it's working again. Thanks for the response, I appreciate it Mike.
Michael you used 12/2 Romex for the charger extension to the Gopower ATS, right? Did you connect the bare copper ground in the 12/2 Romex to the green wire on your charger? I don't see a bare ground copper wire inside the bottom your charger. Or did you buy and use a separate green wire for ground to go from inside the charger's green wire to the ATS ground bar? EDIT: I think I see what did at 15:45 -- you left the charger (green) ground wire on the charger bar and then added the copper from the 12/2 romex there. Then the other end would have been connected to the ground bar in the ATS.
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, we were out of town. Michael you used 12/2 Romex for the charger extension to the Go Power ATS, right? YES EDIT: I think I see what did at 15:45 -- you left the charger (green) ground wire on the charger bar and then added the copper from the 12/2 romex there. Then the other end would have been connected to the ground bar in the ATS. YES THIS IS WHAT I DID
Hi Mike. Question about hooking this inverter up using Romex loop. Our trailer is pre-wired and we aren't sure what to do with the loop when we splice it in half. One side would go to the inverter, but what about the other side? We have one 200w solar panel and 2 12v deep cycle batteries. Also, why have the 200A ANL fuse between the inverter and battery? Thanks so much!
Good Question. What you do is find the wire that comes off the main breaker (the wire for 30 amp is usually orange) what I did was remove that wire from the breaker and run it to a junction box as you can see here ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.html (this wire comes from the outside power inlet (shore power) and then from the junction box where I connected a new wire I bought to the original shore power wire I ran that wire to the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) (the reason I used the junction box is because the wire from the shore power was not long enough to reach the Automatic Transfer Switch so I made the splice in the box. I then connected a new 10/2 (orange wire) from the main breaker in the A/C panel directly to the Automatic Transfer Switch. Regarding why I have a 200A ANL fuse - I contacted Renogy to ask them what size fuse I need to install between the battery and inverter and below is what they said in a email (You can also see this email and a list with links to the materials I used for the project in the description below the UA-cam video). it is important to install fuses or breakers between the battery and devices so if the wire ever or anything else shorts out the fuse will blow and prevent a short from possibly blowing up your batteries or cause a fire. I hope this answers all your questions and they were written so you can understand them. Feel free to ask more questions if you like, I'm happy to help. Here's what Renogy said about the fuse size - From: Order Support support@renogy.com Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021, 08:21:25 AM PDT Subject: Re: What size fuse do I need? Renogy Hello Mike Bracewell, Thank you for reaching out to Renogy Support! I hope you're doing well. You may put a 200A ANL fuse in between your battery bank and 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter. The rule of thumb that we use here would be “Continuous Watts / Battery Voltage times 1.25 safety factor of 25%. Thank you so much and stay healthy!
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thanks, Mike! So appreciate your video. We ended up switching our inverter to one with an automatic switch. It also has an in and out place to put the wires. My husband will check to see which is hot and which is not. We also ordered the fuse and box you referenced above. I hope this will cover everything. Thank you again!!
Hi Michael. Last year I had purchased Renogy Rover 40amp MPPT charger with blue tooth and 3 x100 watt folding solar panels and installed them in a 2008 Orbit, then purchase a Renogy 2000w inverter to instal this year. Looking for ideas on how to install the system I found your excellent video with exactly the system that I wanted., further purchased the additional wires and transfer switch. Was set to install when we decided to upgrade our trailer to a 2016 Connect 260rks with enclosed underbelly. Would you have any suggestions on how to make the instal? Thanks again for the
Thank you so much for your kind comments. I have had people that have commented to me that have removed the underbelly where they wanted to run the wires and then reinstalled it with fender washers and self tapping screws if the underbelly is riveted in place. If it is already installed with self tapping screws you can remove them and reinstall them. I hope this helps. Here's a link to what others have done to remove the underbelly that may help you - ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=removing+a+underbelly+from+a+trailer+of+rv
Good afternoon Michael, The only thing left for me to do was to hard wire the 10-2 to the inverter, the #10 wire will not fit, how did you do it. I bought everything from your list which made it nice.
Hello Robin - Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I think someone else had the same question awhile ago. What we discovered was he did not have the screws backed out all the way and the wires would not go in. Once he did that the wires went in no problem. Have you checked to make sure this is not the case? Please let me know if this works or not
Michael looking at the diagram at 12:42 , I'm assuming you installed your new little rocker led switch (16amp / 120v) to the right of the converter's 15 amp fuse? Since the incoming power for the converter/ charger is coming from the shore power connection on the right side of the transfer switch. Would that be correct?
I don't understand how your charger/converter works during shore power? It's there to power the DC and charge the battery. Does it still do both while you are on shore power? Also your inverter is to come on and power your AC outlets when you are disconnected. Or does it always power your AC outlets even when you are on shore power?
Great questions Kim - Yes while on shore power the charger/converter charges the battery, the Automatic Transfer Switch allows this to happen and when I run on the 2,000 watt inverter the Automatic Transfer Switch recognizes the inverter is on and the shore power is disconnected and does no allow the charger to run because if it did allow this power would just be going in circles. I turn on my inverter to power all my outlets when not connected to shore power and usually only turn it on when I need power and off when I don't. When I am on shore power I don't turn it on. I hope this helps answer your questions
@@kimfreeborn No problem. When you unplug shore power and the inverter isn't on 110 Volts will not be supplied to trailer outlets. What I do is leave my inverter switch in the off position (the switch I put inside the trailer) and only turn it on when when we need it, So when we go to a site with shore power I just plug into shore power. And when we dry camp I use the power off the inverter.
I haven't put together my system yet. I've been asking questions to try and see if this would work for me. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't. Thanks for your patience. Do you have any suggestions?
@@kimfreeborn Have you seen my videos on batteries and solar installations? What trailer do you have? Batteries - ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html Solar Panels Part 1 - ua-cam.com/video/j4a9MkLRJN4/v-deo.html Solar Panels Part 2 - ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html
Hi, Can you provide a bit more info on the fuse and charger wiring. 1. Why 15 amp. Does that match the breaker? 2. I believe you said the yellow wire is a yellow. That is 12AWG. Why did you select that AWG. Isn't the wiring on the battery charger 14 AWG ? 3. So the wiring goes from WFCO charger> to fuse > to ??. Thank you
1. Why 15 amp. Does that match the breaker? - The converter/charger was wired to a 15 amp breaker, I contacted both Go Power and Progressive Dynamics to confirm installing a 15 amp fuse to replace the breaker and they both said this was the way it needed to be protected. 2. I believe you said the yellow wire is a yellow. That is 12AWG. Why did you select that AWG. Isn't the wiring on the battery charger 14 AWG ? - So if I remember correctly it is a 12 AWG wire and not a 14 AWG wire. (Information Sharing: A 12 AWG wire is fine to replace a 14 AWG wire and not the other way around) 3. So the wiring goes from WFCO charger> to fuse > to ??. It comes off the fuse to the Automatic Transfer Switch Normally Open Hot "NO -HOT" as you can see in this diagram in the video ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.html at the 12:41 minute mark. I hope this makes sense and is helpful. Mike www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Oh, one more thing. The rocker switch you installed to turn the converter off, only has to have the black(hot ) wire. Correrct? Didit go between the fuse and converter? Does the switch need a ground to the bus bar in the trnasfer switch. Thank you
@@stuartrichman9253 No problem. Open this link and scroll down to page 4 and you will see how I did it in the wiring diagram :) gopowersolar.com/wp-content/uploads/Documents/PDF/Manual_GP-TS-30-PREWIRED.pdf?fbclid=IwAR2rwNCbuwG2Z-tzhFp58Q-R7nX6-FFbBR3l56W1tBtzl2ID0ZlbdADp9P8
I'd like to know how you got 10 gauge wires on the output of the inverter - those little terminals are too small for a 10 ga wire. I've tried and tired, but no luck - 10 ga is just too big, period. I'm at an impasse here.
I had someone else awhile go that was having the same problem getting the wire in. I told them to make sure the opening for the wire was all the way open and it would fit. They did this and it worked. Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier, we are on a long road trip and have not had reception to reply until now.
Hello Zach, the inverter and automatic transfer switch were installed close to two years ago and we have used it a lot with no problems, it still runs everything we want it to run and works great. Are the people saying the inverter is not working for them or the automatic transfer switch? If its the inverter they are having problems with it may be caused from them not using the proper sized wire sizes from the batteries to the inverter and/or using the improper wire sizes to the transfer switch. There are several people that have watched my video and done the exact same set up on their RV and have gotten back to me that their system is working great
They don't really say mostly just that the unit's either don't work at all or throwing the fault. I agree though I think its improper wire size. Do you think the 4 golf cart batteries would be ok with the 3000 watt renogy or would i need more? Thanks again for the info.
@@zachgannon1788 What do you plan on running with the 3000 watt? I have found I can run everything with our 2000 watt with no problems, we don't go nuts running the microwave for long periods which is a big draw or a toaster oven. I would not recommend running your air conditioner with the inverter because this battery or pretty much any battery solar set up you have would not keep up with the demand and your batteries would be low real quick. If you get the 3000 watt and just run everything except the A/C you should be okay.
I'd like to run a cpap at night. If my math is correct is about 450 watts. one of the places we stay wont allow generator use after 10 p.m. which is understandable. So i definitely need the enough power to get through the night. Thank you for your time
The 2/0 wire outside diameter is 14.10 mm or .55 inches 9/16" Inside Diameter amzn.to/3uSxjZ8 and 1/2" wire clamps amzn.to/2S0L7SB (These are for the 2/0 wire and you would need different sizes for other wires)
What are you using to seal the wires as you bring them in from under the trailer from the battery to the inverter and from the inverter to the transfer switch? Thanks in advance.
If my fifth wheel has 50 amp service would I need to get the Go Power! TS-50 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch? And wire it the same way? Thank you Michael.
Great question. Yes you would need to purchase a 50 automatic transfer switch a 30 amp switch will not work for you. See links below for wiring information Here's a link to the transfer switch you need to purchase - amzn.to/3aXesau Wiring will be a little different -support.gpelectric.com/kb/article/256-transfer-switch-wiring-diagrams-50-amp/ Here's a video that might be helpful on how to wire the 50 amp ATS. I sure hope this information is helpful to you - ua-cam.com/video/zTjOECEhYDM/v-deo.html
So whats charging your batteries if youre leaving the 15amp breaker off that powers your converter to create DC? I understand leaving the converter off when the inverter is in use to keep the loop from happening. But youll need power to regain full power on the 12v batteries when connecting to shore power.
Great question Chris I'm glad you asked. Once I turned off the breaker I rerouted the charger/converter wires through the Automatic Transfer Switch as you can see here in the video so everything goes through the fuse now instead, I hope this answers your question, if not please let me know - ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=fCT4K0KOG6oQSS9C&t=911
It was just shy of 10 feet from the inverter to the batteries. Thanks so much for watching and your question. Here's links to most of the items purchased for this installation - 200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter: amzn.to/38FmZdY 30 Amp Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - amzn.to/3vmkerD If you have 50 Amps you will need the automatic transfer switch (the 30 amp will not work on a 50 amp RV) - amzn.to/3aXesau Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter - amzn.to/3vmkgQh Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery - amzn.to/30FmYSW 2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter - amzn.to/3eLyap4 (For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet - amzn.to/3hvuAkv (For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp - amzn.to/3uRpwuw On off switch battery switch to inverter - amzn.to/3vjVZKR Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter - amzn.to/2NokG7K 10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch - amzn.to/3jCvpre 8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer - www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI... 15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2 15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
You keep referring to the orange wire as if it were a single wire. Is it a single wire or like a 12/2 with ground? This is the only question that I have and thanks for the video!
My apologies for the confusion Edward. The orange jacketed contains one wire of each color; Black, White, and Ground. Its a 10/2 with a ground. Thanks for bringing this up and watching. Links to most of the products I used are listed below. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos Here's links to most of the items purchased for this installation - 10/2 NM-B x 15' Non-Metallic Electrical Cable - amzn.to/3SvdYeH 200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter: amzn.to/38FmZdY 30 Amp Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - amzn.to/3vmkerD If you have 50 Amps you will need the automatic transfer switch (the 30 amp will not work on a 50 amp RV) - amzn.to/3aXesau Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter - amzn.to/3vmkgQh Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery - amzn.to/30FmYSW 2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter - amzn.to/3eLyap4 (For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet - amzn.to/3hvuAkv (For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp - amzn.to/3uRpwuw On off switch battery switch to inverter - amzn.to/3vjVZKR Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter - amzn.to/2NokG7K 10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch - amzn.to/3jCvpre 8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer - www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI... 15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2 15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
Thanks for watching and your question. I hope this answers you question: Play this video to see were the wires come from that power the inverter - ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=xXCqRSfAzSrIR43o&t=324 Play these videos to see the wires going out of the inverter to the transfer switch - ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=qWjY7r_k-YeMOUVr&t=361 ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=_nqbvW9q1DJELQeJ&t=765 Play to watch where the ground wire goes from the transfer switch to the frame - ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=5CtOP-xN5zzJjV3Q&t=1353
I'm just using the same charger that came with the trailer in 2017. Someday I may be changing to Battle Born Lithium Batteries and if I do (not for awhile) I will be upgrading my charger.
Great Video Michael. From what I see you have your inverter wired to the "Power Cord" terminals on the transfer switch. And your shore power going the the "Gen Hot and Gen Neutral" on the transfer switch. Other youtubers have those two switched around. Does it matter?
Great question and thank you for watching. I wired everything like it shows in the diagram provided by Go Power. The 2000 watt inverter is wired to the transfer switch "NC" (Normally Closed) Hot & Neutral located at the top of the transfer switch. And the Generator/Shore Power is wired to the transfer switch "NO" (Normally Open) Hot & Neutral located on the sides of the transfer switch. I'm curious as to why others have wired the transfer switch the other way other than the way I did (good catch by the way), Can you please share a link here to the video you are watching so I can see what they did? ua-cam.com/users/MichaelBracewellTheTravelTrailerGuyvideos
I didn't think you could connect shore power AND generator power on the same incoming lines? I thought you had to have a transfer switch between the two?
The instructions that I received show it wired this way. The generator is not a on board generator and I plug it into the inlet on the outside of the trailer, its the same inlet that I use for shore power. So only one can be connected one at a time; Shore Power or Generator Power. Good question and catch
You are correct. You will burn siht up if you do. Michael's "shore/Gen" input is ALWAYS via the Shore cable. He plugs it into the generator when needed; and "Grid" when available. He switches only 2 sources; Cable or Inverter.
I’m getting this inverter tomorrow. And installing it this week. How has it held up since you made this video? I’ve heard great things about this Renogy 2000w inverter.
I've had the inverter for close to two years now and so far so good. We camp every other week for 3 nights at a time and go on 30-40 day trips once per year and having this inverter along with our solar system and automatic transfer switch has been great. You will be very pleased with this inverter, feel free to contact Renogy if you have and questions, their staff are very helpful. I just subscribed to your channel :)
I just purchased this exact transfer switch and will be installing it in a similar fashion. My only question is the direct wiring of the charger into the 30A shore power. I understand that the 15A fuse is meant to protect the hot wire to the converter, however is there an issue having a 30A input (shore power) tied directly to a 15A output (converter)?
It is important to wire the inverter/converter into the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) instead of leaving it connected directly to shore power as it is now. If you do not wire it through the ATS it will not shut off while running on inverter power, it is important to have it shut off while running 110 volt power off your inverter.
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thanks for the quick reply! I may be over-thinking this with all the research I have been doing. I am concerned that the power coming in the trailer from the 30A shore connection is too high for the 15A converter, but with A/C I don't think it is an issue as long as a fuse is placed in line as you did in your video.
@@nicholashoots5619 I understand your thinking. Its okay that you have 30 amps of power coming into your trailer, all this means is that you can only use 30 amps of power at a single time or a breaker will trip.....so for example if you are running your microwave and it draws 15 amps, and a hair drier drawing 10 amps, and a coffee pot drawing 10 amps (examples only) that would be 35 amps being drawn and the breaker will trip out. Does that make sense? So what is happening is the converter has a 15 amp fuse that will fail if the converter draws more than 15 amps. You had a good question
I did not use any ring terminals to connect the 10/3 wires to the inverter. Remove the cover with 2 screws under that you will 3 screws (this is where you are now), loosen all 3 screws as far as they will go, under the 3 screws on the side of this area you will see where you slide the wires into holes, then tighten the screws to hold the wires in place. Note each of the individual copper wires will need to be twisted really tight in order to fit into these holes (some people struggle with getting them into the holes so be patient it can be done). I hope this helps, can you please let me know if it does?
I see the 10/3 wire from the inverter to the transfer switch but only two wires diagrammed as connected. Is the third wire the earth ground which is connected to the box casing?
Great catch, yes the ground wire connects to the ground bar inside the Automatic Transfer Switch Box 12:45 minutes into the video. At 12:30 minutes into the video I mention the green wire (ground) going from the Automatic Transfer Switch Box ground bar to the trailer frame. I hope this helps answer your question.
Yes there are so many inverters out there for sure. I chose the Renogy because I've seen so many good reviews on it and it was a good price. We have been using it for almost 2 years now and so far it has been working great with no problems. We use it around 60+ days a year. Thanks for watching
I installed on/off switches so if I need to replace or work on something I can isolate the device instead of disconnecting the batteries and killing the power to everything in the RV while doing so. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Nice job, Mike. Enjoy your videos. I just purchased the Renogy 2000 for our 30 travel trailer and was thinking of mounting in the front storage as well but wanted your thoughts. How loud is the Renogy when in use? I’m concerned about the noise since it would be in the area just under our pillows and don’t want to listen to it running all night. Secondly, does it generate a lot of heat? Do you leave your compartment door open when it’s in use? Thanks!
Thank you for watching and commenting :) You have good questions and I have answers to them. Regarding the noise I had the same concerns as you because our 2000 watt inverter is located right next to our pillows also. I can say we don't even hear it because its really quite even during different temperatures, the only time you hear it is when we turn it on it beeps a couple times to let us know its on. As for generating heat I installed it close to 3 years ago and it has not overheated and the compartment doesn't is not heating up from it so I have never had to leave the compartment door open. We live in California and are able to camp year round so we camp every other weekend at 3 to 4 night trips and try and go on 30-40 day trip a year and it has been working great. Question for you - Are you also going to install a Automatic Transfer Switch? I recommend you do, its great to have. Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - amzn.to/3vmkerD
Great video as always. Thanks again for answering my questions. What happens if you upgrade to 2 6 volt batteries and buy a suitcase solar? What is the added benefit of the inverter?
Your welcome James and thank you. With two 6 volt batteries instead of one 12 volt battery will give usually give you more amp hours (more run time with two 6 volt batteries) I would go with having two 6 volt batteries over having one 12 volt battery. Regarding your question about the solar suitcase it all depends on how much you use your 12 volt power in your trailer and for how many days you use it. A solar suitcase will allow you to recharge your batteries, from what I have seen most solar suitcases are around 100 watts so I'm not sure how quick the recharge rate of your batteries would be. I know several people that have the 100 watt suitcase and say they are very happy with the batteries recharging. Here's a site that talks about his solar suitcase - www.stresslesscamping.com/blog/2018/5/30/packing-solar-with-an-rv-solar-suitcase The added benefit of having a inverter is you can run things in your trailer that require electrical power for appliances using 120 volts without this you can only use your 12 volt appliances such at fans, furnace, lights, water pump. With this 2,000 watt inverter we have I can pretty much run everything I have except our air conditioner. But we do not run things for long periods so we will not drain our lead acid batteries below 50% (going below 50% will damage the batteries and decrease their life). So with this inverter and our power demands we have four six volt lead acid batteries and four 100 watt solar panels (total of 400 watts) and this works very well for us when we have sun, if their is no sun or we are under trees we use out inverter generator to recharge our batteries. Battery Video - ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html 200 Watt Solar Video - ua-cam.com/video/j4a9MkLRJN4/v-deo.html 400 watt Solar Video - ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html I hope this information answers your questions. Mike
Thanks for posting this video. I'm thinking of going the same route. I was hoping you could answer 2 quick questions regarding your installation. 1: I was a little unclear about how you ran the converter/charger wires. The black hot wire was clear, but did you also remove the (green and white) neutral and ground from inside the power center and relocate them into the Transfer box? And 2: Maybe I missed it in your video, but what is the power on/off status of your Inverter when plugged into shore power. Does this Transfer switch shut it off, or do you need to manually turn it on and off. Thanks.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I was camping close to Yosemite last week. Thank you for watching. Question #1 - Skip to 51:10 minutes into the video (I now see that I could have explained this better after watching it) ....the black wire was removed from the 15 amp circuit breaker that went to the converter/charger I then ran new wire (12/2 wire) from the transfer switch directly to the converter/charger, the ground wire (copper) connects from the transfer switch buss bar to the buss bar in the AC panel, the green wire in the breaker box was never touched by me that connects to the converter/charger from the buss bar (I only connected the black and white wires to the converter/charger from the transfer switch and the copper ground wire as mentioned above) Question #2 - When connected to shore power the transfer switch automatically turns on the converter/charger and when shore power is off the converter/charger automatically shuts off (I do not have to have a manual switch its all done automatically through the transfer switch). I hope you understand what I'm saying. If you have more questions please feel free to ask. Here's a link to the Go Power Automatic Transfer switch wiring diagram - images.app.goo.gl/7swStPz1gK8pgqRv6
Hello I just install the transfer switch like how you did. Everything works good. I have 4 6v Costco batteries like you, but they are 5 years old. Ones I turn the microwave on my remote control show low input. Batteries are fully charged. It drop to 11.5v with microwave working. It’s normal or you think I need new batteries? Thanks
Hello Antonio, Its good to hear its all working for you.....you're going to like it. My Costco batteries are 2 1/2 years old and do the same thing as yours do when I run the microwave. Lets say while looking at my Bluetooth app on my cell phone the voltage on for the batteries shows 70% +/- and we turn the microwave on it can drop to around 11.5 volts like what's happen to you. But that's okay because when you watch the app on your phone the voltage goes back up (to the battery resting voltage) when the microwave turns off, and then your solar will work on getting your batteries changed up again. What we do is TRY not to run the microwave at night when there is no sun or if the batteries have less then around 65% of charge. I always like to have the sun around the batteries charge back up. If you must run the microwave after the sun goes down I would only do it for a short period of time. I hope this is help to you. Mike
Thank you. Here is the video on the battery box, there are links to the parts I used in the description below the video, I hope this helps - ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html
Question on the input from the inverter to the transfer switch...if the inverter has a 15amp outlet going to the transfer switch...why do you need a 10ga. wire? I'd imagine a 12/14ga. wire would be more than adequate. Am I wrong?
I used this site below to help me determine the size wire to use and also watched other videos of inverter installations of the 2000 watt inverter where other people were using the 10/3 wire. Maybe I could have used a 12/14 gauge wire but for my peace of mind and since it was only around a 20 foot run I decided to pay a little more and wire it this way - www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
I had the same question regarding traditional romex style 10/3 (hot1, hot2, neutral, bare ground) VS 10/2 romex (hot, neutral, bare ground). But I think I understand what's going on here. This is flexible, stranded wire, not solid core romex, so the ground needs to have insulation. The insulated ground appears to be considered the 3rd conductor.
Hi Michael, great video. I only need to connect my refrigerator to the inverter when traveling. I understand most of the wiring but still a little confused at the breaker panel. Do I disconnect the 15amp panel breaker and connect those wires to the ATS?
Yes disconnect the power at the 15 amp breaker and connect the wires through the ATS and don't forget to install a fuse inside the like I did in the video. By installing the ATS all your 110 volt power on the RV will become connected through the ATS including your refrigerator. You will need to make sure you also install a inverter to do so. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Mike, finally back home and got the residential frig installed. Now onto the inverter and the ATS. I think I did what you suggested but I keep blowing my surge protector. So something is amiss. I ran the cord from the inverter and connected it to the generator side of my WFCO TS-30 ATS. I then disconnected the frig lead from my 15amp breaker in my control panel. I ran that disconnected line into the ATS and connected it to the shore power in side of the ATS. I figured it would be the hot line when I turned all the power back on. Lastly, I took another 12/2 wire and ran it from the ATS panel side connecter and ran it back to the 15amp breaker in my control panel. Again, all I'm trying to do is run the frig when we are on the road. My problem is I keep blowing my surge protector, so something isn't working. I know you must get tired of all the mail but I am hoping you will take pity on a fellow traveler and help me out. Either way, I appreciate the chance to vent and write everything down.. Even that helps.
What about the refrigerator? Mine is propane and switches to shore power when plugged in. 1t will run off the inverter at this point or does it need to be isolated too?
You asked a great question Randy and I should have mentioned this in the video. When the inverter is on everything in the panel with 110 volts is powered up to operate. It is not enough to power the A/C but it also powers the refrigerator (Ours also runs on propane and 110 volts) Our does the same as yours and switches to shore power when plugged in and to propane when not plugged in.....But if you are not hooked up to shore power and have the inverter on it will be powered by the inverter 110 volts unless you switch your refrigerator to gas only. This works great if you don't want to have your propane on and run the refrigerator off the inverter power while driving.
The relay switch is a Automatic Transfer Switch so there is no need to have a on/off switch, it all happens automatically with this system. When you are plugged into shore power or generator the Transfer switch uses this power and when you are not hooked up to shore power or generator you turn on the Inverter switch and the Transfer switch recognizes this and power then comes from the inverter. I'm not sure what you are talking about when you say "and also diagram for your DC load?" Mike
@@thetraveltrailerguy Isnt the relay for the transfer switch has to be energized in order to activate the contacts normally open or normally closed? I did not see a wire circuit that connects to that coil relay. As for the DC loads. DC loads refers to the lights, motor pump, slide out and awning that rated 12 volts.
@@subicbay100 I'm sorry Earlwin I don't know how to answer your question "Isn't the relay for the transfer switch has to be energized in order to activate the contacts normally open or normally closed?" Go Power should be able to answer your question, they are very helpful 866-247-6527. Unfortunately I do not have a diagram for the DC loads, nothing came with the new trailer and I can't find it on the internet :( I'm sorry that I have not been much help to you on these questions and that it took so long to get back to you, we have been dealing with fires that came really close to our house in California but we are safe and okay.
How did you determine the fuse size coming off the inverter (200amp)? I have the same inverter and will be running an AC appliance up to 1500w. Inverter is 3 feet from the battery bank.
Hello Mike Bracewell, Thank you for reaching out to Renogy Support! I hope you're doing well. You may put a 200A ANL fuse in between your battery bank and 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter. The rule of thumb that we use here would be “Continuous Watts / Battery Voltage times 1.25 (safety factor of 25%).
Is this what you are looking for? Here's links to my Solar & Battery Installations - Solar - ua-cam.com/video/j4a9MkLRJN4/v-deo.html Battery - ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html Here's links to most of the items purchased for this installation and links at the bottom to my Solar & Battery Installation videos: Total Cost is around $500 for everything May 2019 200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... 2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... On off switch battery switch to inverter - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter (goes on sale sometimes for around $250) - www.amazon.com/Renogy-Inverte... 10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... 8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer - www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI... 15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - www.platt.com/platt-electric-... 15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - www.homedepot.com/s/fnm%25201... Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : www.homedepot.com/p/The-Harri... Here's a link to my battery installation: ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html Here's a link to my solar installation: ua-cam.com/video/j4a9MkLRJN4/v-deo.html
Michael Bracewell yes, but I think I’ve since found something on Amazon Positive Insulated Battery Power Junction Post Block 3/8 Lug X 16 thread (Red) www.amazon.com/dp/B00784HYI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aokKEb5H3CY2K
No question is a dumb question Travis :) I feel your question is a really good one. After thinking about it I probably don't even need the disconnect switch before the inverter The inverter has a shut off switch on it and at the remote shut off in the trailer , but its located in a hard to get to spot. I put the switch in so if I needed to shut the inverter off in a emergency should something go terribly wrong with it or if I wanted to remove the inverter without disconnecting the wires to the inverter at the batteries. Thank you so much for the question and watching my videos.
Alright Michael, ignore all my previous questions as I got them resolved. My next question is how the hell did you remove the black cap to hardwire the leads directly to the inverter? Unscrewing that camp also loosens the board inside the inverter holding the wires inside.
I'm sorry it is taking me so long to get back to you. What sized Inverter did you buy and is it a Renogy? Here's a link to the one I have and it is made to be hard wired or plugged into 110 volt outlets. Does your look like this? www.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter/
If you look at page 6 in this pdf and look at #1 this is what I have and all I did was remove the two screws for 110 volts (hardwire) and the cover, put the wires on and then put the cover back on after attaching the wires. Is your different?
@@thetraveltrailerguy take a look at my shots, notice when I removed the cover with the warning, it made the connections loose so when I wanted to screw down the lines, it got pushed into the inverter. I tried to pop the cover off those screws (keeping the screws screwed down) they wouldn't budge. Yeah using same inverter as you. imgur.com/a/xwFyJKo
@@averagerider92 Oh wow thank you for sending me pictures. This should not have happened when you removed the screws holding the cover down. I would recommend you send these pictures to Renogy and right after you send them give them a call and let them know you just sent pictures in a email (put your name in the subject line so they cam find it) They will advise you on what to do and possibly send you a new one in exchange. I've found them to be very helpful. Please let me know how this works out I would appreciate it. Mike
Just buy the 2000 watt inverter\charger from Renogy and be done with it.. As that transfer switch you used cost $160.00 US.. Then the Inverter is $280.00 US... That is $440.00 US... The Renogy all in one unit is only $380.00.....Plus it can charge12 volt batteries up to 75 amps when plugged into shore power..
@@WizzRacing Nice :) this unit you are talking about is a inverter/charger only. It is not capable of being a automatic transfer switch which would need to be purchased separately (last time I checked Renogy does not sell Automatic Transfer Switches but Go Power does)
@@thetraveltrailerguy The inverter in the link you posted has a builtin transfer switch of 10ms. Plus 75 amp charger You can chose Shore Power as Primary or Battery Primary. When I unplug my shore power. The inverter automatically switches to battery power..You can make it the other way around if you want too. It's why it cost more..But it serves 3 functions in one unit. You add in the 50 amp DC-DC MPPT controller. You can charge it off Solar, Alternator and Shore Power. Which gives you 3 ways to keep your batteries charged.. It's the cheapest most efficient use of space for an RV or Van..
@@WizzRacing ua-cam.com/video/Pv4G5TZSe3M/v-deo.html thank you now I understand, this is pretty cool. So did you wire this to all your AC outlets or did you wire it like they did in the video I just shared with you? With my Automatic Transfer Switch set up I wired through my electrical panel so when on shore power all my power travels to my AC panel and when I disconnect shore power my Automatic Transfer Switch switches to my 2000 watt inverter to power all my outlets to run everything (I do not run my air conditioner since it would draw to much power). I like this set up because when using the inverter power I can use any outlet I want including our microwave. Thanks for sharing
Couple questions for ya! 1) shouldn't the fuse for the converter be sized for the converter's amps? For example a 45 amp Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger, wouldn't you want a ~50 amp fuse? Wouldn't a 15 amp fuse just keep blowing? 2) I heard that the ground bar for the transfer switch was grounded via the incoming shore power line, why did you also add the green chassis ground? Thanks!
Great questions. I installed the 15 amp fuse since it replaced the 15 amp circuit breaker that now goes through the Go Power Transfer Switch. I'm not sure what other converters draw but it makes sense to me if like you mentioned above you have one that draws 45 amps you would use a 45 amp fuse and if not 45 amp fuse is available you use a 50 amp fuse (I would contact Progressive Dynamics to make sure). Regarding the grounding, I followed the Go Power Automatic Transfer Switch directions regarding grounding, I called them to confirm before doing this. I agree with you but wanted to make sure I installed it correctly. I hope this helps answer your questions, are you doing a new install? If so what are you installing or planning to install? Our trailer is wired up for 30 amp shore power and I'm not sure what your trailer is? 30 amp or 50 amp. A 45 amp converter probably would not work in my trailer since its only a 30 amp service panel. Thanks for watching, Mike
@@thetraveltrailerguy ohhh ya I forgot you mentioned the fuse was to match the breaker. Mine is also on a 15 amp breaker. I'm planning to install the exact same transfer switch onto my class B (also 30 amp shore power). I guess that makes sense that it wouldn't actually be able to draw more than 30 amps. The original converter was a Magnetek 6345 that I recently upgraded, but that was also 45 amps from the factory. It won't be hard for me to also do that same grounding wire, I'll have to read the instructions again beforehand :) Thanks again, Joe P.S I'll probably be trying to make a video of the install over on my van channel "rent free van plan" ua-cam.com/video/mMN8uUbOoSA/v-deo.html
I have my lithium batteries located in the front pass through to get weight off of the tongue of my trailer and to provide a secure location. I plan on putting my Progressive Dynamics charger/converter there with the batteries to keep heavy DC runs short. The AC/DC panel is in the back of the trailer and will run AC output from the inverter back through 10/2 wire to the transfer switch as you did and power charger as you have through a separate 15 amp fuse in the transfer switch forward to the batteries also using a 10/2 circuit. DC power from the batteries will go to the panel through the existing wiring and disconnect switch. My question concerns the DC side of the wiring. With the charger/converter moved up front and the AC/DC panel in the back am I okay wiring as I have described above or am I missing something?
ALL DONE! and everything works!!! Holy Smokes! We have a 2019 Mini Lite 2507s.
I installed: LiTime 2000 watt inverter, 2 LiTime Lithium 100ah batteries, GoPower Auto Transfer Switch, upgraded WFCO 8955 (with jumper forced lithium), Victron Smartshunt 500a.
I installed everything (except the ATS) in our bathroom large cupboard. The ATS was installed near our WFCO power center.
Thank you for your videos, Michael...they really helped me.
YAY YAY YAY YAY I'm so happy for you, you're going to love this set up, way to go! Are you on Facebook if so and if you have not not done so already I recommend you join the "Rockwood Mini Lite-Flagstaff Micro Lite Fan Club" Group, They are a awesome group. facebook.com/groups/1901493023470645
www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Yes, I'm on there. You should see my posting and schematic on the comments with pics. We're going camping for 7 days this afternoon, no power at the site, so we'll see. I also have the bluetti lithium ac200max and B230 which gives me another 3.5 lithium equivalent batteries with 3 solar panels, so we should be rocking it!
@@KJC63 I found you :)
This video has been the most informative for an inverter and converter, thank you.
Thank you so much and thanks for watching
Got her done. I watched your video for at least the 10th time, and saw what I had missed the first nine times. All well - it went without a hitch, and it's up and running. Just have to mount the remote switch for the inverter. Thanks!
That's great, I'm so happy it all worked out so you can go and enjoy your camping trip. Thanks for letting me know, you are going to like this set up :)
Thank you! From one DIY electrician to another 💚
You're welcome and thanks for commenting and watching :) ua-cam.com/users/MichaelBracewellTheTravelTrailerGuyvideos
Thank you Michael. You are the first video which seems to be well thought out and fully diagramed and does not involve adding a $1500.00 inverter charger with $2500.00 in solar panels. This is exactly what I was looking for. Adding an inverter with an existing charger/converter. This is my first solar system for the trailer and I didn't want to go all in at once. I have 2-100 watt panels and 2-100 amp hour 6 volt batteries. When the batteries need replacing I will step up to 400 watts and 400 amp hours. My design is a little different in that I did not use the 15 amp fuse as you did. My AC panel had a separate, unused breaker bus bar. My charger was designed to plug into the back of the AC panel. With this existing set up I used the empty breaker bar to add a second 30/15 amp breaker and run 10/2 from the transfer switch to the secondary 30 amp and then using the 15 amp to provide service to the existing charger outlet service. Thanks again. Let me know if you are still enjoying your system after a year of service.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write, your compliments, and for sharing what you are doing. Its been a year and everything is still working great and I'm very happy with it. I'm so happy I did this it makes life better and with the solar I find us not having to use the generator anymore if the sun is out charging the batteries. So this helps by not having to hear the generator noise to :) Here's a great video that just came out about batteries that you might enjoy watching - ua-cam.com/video/2BsSWCc66_w/v-deo.html also have you watched my video where I installed another 200 watts of panels so now I have 400 watts (I did this in January 2020 and it sure helps recharge the batteries much quicker)? We camp a lot and have traveled over 20,000 miles in the last 3 years, unfortunately this pandemic has been keeping us home more with all the campgrounds closed. Here's the 400 watt install video - ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html Here's all my videos if you have not watched them - ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html
One of the best videos on UA-cam about adding a inverter! Great job!! I copied everything you did! Thanks for the links for the parts!
Thank you much Brian. How is it all working for you, do you like it?
@@thetraveltrailerguy so far so good! Still want to add 2 more batteries. Very well thought out plan you had. Made my install so much easier. How are you liking yours?
@@brianlucas1140 We really really like it a lot. 95% of our camping is without hook ups and its so nice to have power whenever we want it without firing up a generator. I'm happy we switched over to lithium batteries to, did you see this install?
@@thetraveltrailerguy not the install of lithium batteries. I will check it out tonight. Thanks again!
@@brianlucas1140 ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.html
I watched this several times and printed off the wiring. Then I went to work. It turned out excellent, Thanks so much for the step by step and pictures. I could not have done it without you
I'm following suit. Ordered mine
Sorry for the delayed response. Done it different but it works for me. Thank you for being so willing to help people. You are a true gentleman. I also got an email sent to you.
Thank you Paul, I'm happy you got everything worked out and the nice complements. Happy Camping and stay safe
Well done. Made it easy to understand. I was going to do the inverter install without a transfer switch. And try to get my wife to understand what she needed to turn on/off to make the thing work. But the transfer switch is cheap enough, and you made the install look easy... to understand. A little work to get it there, but looks well worth it.
Its funny I was going to do the same thing you were thinking about doing until I discovered the Automatic Transfer Switch. I'm sure glad I did it this way. I provided links in the description for some of the things you would need to do the installation. Have fun :)
I had forgotten you did this, I’m working on a similar project but I have two transfer switches that are 50 amp as well as the same inverter. My plan is to put a transfer switch in the back where my shore-power goes in. Initially I was going to stop there and be done. Then manually plug in the generator or inverter, this way I wouldn’t have to run my main shore power cable anymore. But you know I can’t stop there, right. So I’m using a 2nd transfer switch in the front to automatically switch from the inverter to the generator when it turns on to charge the batteries or run the a/c. The beauty of it is that the inverter power will only be wired on one leg, the leg it won’t power is the converter, fireplace, water heater, and A/C. But I’m going to use a jumper on my generator side of the connection so that when the generator flips on (by remote) the converter will flip on and charge the batteries. I have the wires all ran, just have to finish wiring and caulk everything up. There will be a short 4-5 ft cord I’ll have to manually plug into the generator, when I setup but besides pulling the tray out and plugging in, everything is automatic
Thanks for sharing. Enjoy that system! You worked hard for it.
Your welcome Scott and thanks for watching. I've had this set up for a year and so far everything is still working great. Its nice not having to hear the generator anymore with solar power
Your are right on my TS-30 the white jumper are coming off your power side. I was looking at your drawings and my box.Thanks
Sorry it took me so long to reply, I wasn't notified of your comment and just saw it now. Thank you for watching and your comment :) www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Best for example I've found. THANKS!
Thank you so much for watching and your feedback. I sure appreciate it very much. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Great instructional video. Good pic's of the wiring. Diagram with wire size, fuse size etc very helpful. Thank you
Thank you so much Richard. I do my best to explain what I do in my videos so others can learn from them. I really like this set up it works great. Thank you for watching - ua-cam.com/video/hXan0VqZnfQ/v-deo.html
Here's my amazon affiliate links to most of the items purchased for this installation -
200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter:
amzn.to/38FmZdY
Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram -
amzn.to/3vmkerD
Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter -
amzn.to/3vmkgQh
Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery -
amzn.to/30FmYSW
2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter -
amzn.to/3eLyap4
(For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet -
amzn.to/3hvuAkv
(For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp -
amzn.to/3uRpwuw
On off switch battery switch to inverter -
amzn.to/3vjVZKR
Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter -
amzn.to/2NokG7K
10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch -
amzn.to/3jCvpre
8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer -
www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI...
15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2
15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF
Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
Michael, Thank you for sharing all that information. It will be a great help not to have to figure this on my own.@@thetraveltrailerguy
Great video this cover everything and more. Thanks for sharing
Thank you so much Adrian :) You made my day. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
FANTASTIC Video sir. You explained everything in detail and clarity, Thank You!
Thank you Kevin, I sure appreciate the feedback. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
This is great Michael....I have a Mini LIte and just bought 2 = 100 lithium batteries to replace my AGM batteries. Also I'm waiting for my 2000 Inverter and probably will order the Victron Smart Shunt Battery Monitor (bluetooth/waterproof). I've been doing alot of video watching, and this is by far the best video :)
Thank you so much, have you seen my other videos. Links to the products I use are always in the description below the videos. (See more videos below)
Battle Born Lithium Batteries & Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger Installation - Step by Step
ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.html
Victron Smart Shunt is a Great Way to Monitor Your RV Batteries - Here's my Installation
ua-cam.com/video/ksCivLNIzEQ/v-deo.html
Solar Installation Upgrade from 200 Watts to 400 Watts on Our Travel Trailer (Series or Parallel ?)
ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html
Link to all my videos -
www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
@@thetraveltrailerguy yes, I watched a few, and have used your video on the Dometic 310 toilet installation to update our plastic toilet to the same 310 toilet a couple of weeks ago :)
I do have a question: I am a little confused on both the "shore power" connection, and the A/C power connection (30amp circuit breaker).
For the A/C (30 amp circuit breaker) - do you disconnect that and its other 2 wires from inside the converter box and connect those wires into the transfer switch and then run a new wire from inside the transfer switch back to the converter box to replace those connections?
For the shore power connection: I see you are using a junction box for that line. Is it cut in half? Can you explain more on that connection please? Thank you so much.
@@KJC63 Question: For the A/C (30 amp circuit breaker) - do you disconnect that and its other 2 wires from inside the converter box and connect those wires into the transfer switch and then run a new wire from inside the transfer switch back to the converter box to replace those connections?
Me: The answer is yes
Question: For the shore power connection: I see you are using a junction box for that line. Is it cut in half? Can you explain more on that connection please? Thank you so much.
Me: I installed the junction box because the wire would have not been long enough so I added and connected the additional wire in the box so it would reach its destination. - ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.html
@@thetraveltrailerguy thanks so much!
@@KJC63 You're welcome :)
You did a good job for someone who's never done this before. Try installing a fuse as close as physically possible to the positive battery terminal (several inches). This will protect the wiring from catching fire if there is a short caused by an accident, rodent damage etc.
How do you like the inverter? Are the fans noisy? Do they always run when the inverter is on? Have you noticed any radio interference from the inverter, like when you listen to AM band on the radio? This is very important to me because I have a shortwave ham radio in my travel trailer. Some inverters put out a lot of 'hash' noise on many radio bands.
Thank you Andrew. I know I should have placed the fuse closer to the battery, I should have. I'm not to worried but I may change it someday. I really like the inverter its really quite and I don't even hear the fan and my head is right next to it inside the trailer while lying on our bed. I would have gotten back to you yesterday but I wanted to physically go out to the trailer and check for interference with a AM radio. What I found was that while inside the trailer around 2 feet from the inverter the radio had static but I could still hear the music playing as I stepped away the static decreased and stopped at 5-6 feet away. Remember the inverter is located in the storage compartment and has a thin piece of paneling separating it from the inside of the trailer. I hope this information helps you
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thank you for your reply. I really appreciate it.
Best one i have seen so far, Great job and Thanks
Ronald Rowland thank you, I sure appreciate your comment. I hope it helps you
This is a terrific instructional video. Excellent details and explanations,. Thank you for taking the time to put it together.
Thank you so much for the compliments William and for watching. You made my day. Mike
Very informative! Great video! This is what I was looking for. Thank you.
Thank you Todd, I'm happy this is helpful. Feel free to ask me questions in the future and I will do my best to answer them.
Here's links to most of the items purchased for this installation -
200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter:
amzn.to/38FmZdY
Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram -
amzn.to/3vmkerD
Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter -
amzn.to/3vmkgQh
Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery -
amzn.to/30FmYSW
2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter -
amzn.to/3eLyap4
(For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet -
amzn.to/3hvuAkv
(For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp -
amzn.to/3uRpwuw
On off switch battery switch to inverter -
amzn.to/3vjVZKR
Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter -
amzn.to/2NokG7K
10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch -
amzn.to/3jCvpre
8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer -
www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI...
15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2
15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF
Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
thanks for the video... very informative and helped alot for what I'm doing to ours.
Thank you for watching, commenting and for the feedback Joshua. I'm so happy it was helpful to you. Have fun and feel free to ask questions if you need to, I do my best to respond as quickly as possible. Mike
Great video, it's well made and easy to follow. Still not sure i'll follow the automated transfer switch or not. I wanted to use extension cord plug unto the inverter and then back to the shore power outlet outide and just turn on/off the needed breakers. But your installation is great and very professionnal.
Thank you Eric, I really like how this project turned out. The Automatic Transfer Switch is a great thing to have so everything is powered up when we need it (note: we can't run the AC unit with the set up we have). If you don't install the switch I like your idea of using the cord, just make sure you have a heavy duty extension cord for this. Thanks so much for watching and commenting. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
@@thetraveltrailerguy I have a motorhome so I also have an onboard generator. Still unsure how to wire everything to the transfer switch. I'll most likely use my 30amp extension cord and just plug it into my inverter. It's a big wire. On the inverter you simply use a little 30amp to 15amp adapter. The only thing difficult would be to find an access port from the outside to the inside of the motorhome near the inverter. Still searching for best solution.
Finally decided to buy an inverter/charger/transfer switch connected to the AC panel in the rv. It’s the best solution.
@@TheCadillacLyriq Awesome, I hope you can get back to me someday to let me know how you like it? Can you send me a link to what you buy so I can check it out? Thanks
It’s an inverter/charger and transfer switch. All in one device. But now after checking the available space I have to mount the thing I'm a bit screwed. I have almost no room close to the batteries. I might endup keeping my existing charger and simply add a transfer switch and an inverter exactly like you did to save some space.
Wow! Thanks for sharing. Enjoy that system! You worked hard for it. 👍
Thank you Allan, it works better than I expected :)
This was very thorough thank you. I see you only have Shore power coming in. How does this work if you have a onboard generator? So basically you have 3 source of input into the transfer switch (shore power, generator, and inverter). Look forward to your response. Thanks.
Thank you, I really like this modification.
So the way this works for me when connected to shore power the electrical panel power is supplied through the pedestal power through the transfer switch: same thing happens when I connect the portable generator; and when not connected to shore or generator power I turn on the inverter and it supplies power to the electrical panel.
To be honest I'm not sure how a on board generator would work through this automatic transfer switch. Question(s) - How is your generator wired in now? When you turn on the generator does it supply power directly to your electrical panel to power everything in the RV?
There is a transfer switch onboard with inputs from the shore power and generator. The generator is considered primary power source and provides power to the panel and converter to charge the lithium battery. I haven't seen too many people posting on this setup and was wondering if you or others have considered this. Thanks.
@@commonsenseapproach7848 I'm so sorry I don't have an answer but its possible someone else has a UA-cam video out there that shows their solution and/or you can contact Go Power and ask them, they are very helpful 1-866-247-6527 I spoke with Bob Lane (not sure if he is still there) he seemed to be very knowledgeable and helpful.
@@commonsenseapproach7848 I just found this video that may be helpful to you - ua-cam.com/video/_JfvopMxgDk/v-deo.html
Great video. WFCO has an upgraded charger to lithium now. plug and play if you ever chose switch out your batts to lithium. That behind said, all 4 Renogy Life-PO4 batts are in my camper behind convert/panel and original house batt +/- wires out of converter are still factory frame mounted to bumper hitch. I'm thinking of tapping into positive fused direct to battery bank so breakaway break switch still fuctions. Since your batts are up front, I assume you connected directly there? Wire costs are of the freaking charts these days so consolidation was my plan!
Thank you and thanks so much for watching. I still really like this 2000 watt inverter and automatic transfer switch, they are game changers. I've done a few more improvements since this video:
Solar Installation Upgrade from 200 Watts to 400 Watts on Our Travel Trailer -
ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html
Battle Born Lithium Batteries & Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger Installation - Step by Step -
ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.html
Victron Smart Shunt is a Great Way to Monitor Your RV Batteries - Here's my Installation -
ua-cam.com/video/ksCivLNIzEQ/v-deo.html
Link to all my videos, feel free to subscribe if you haven't done so already -
www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Nice video! I'm looking to install an inverter & automatic transfer switch in my keystone which is "inverter prepped" - essentially you splice into romex after the panel (before the outlets). This is what prevents the 12v charger from being powered from the inverter.
The question I have is the grounding - the transfer switch seems to have a ground bar. I assume I can bridge inverter to it, and connect the romex on each end to it. Shoudl i need to do anthing else with it?
I'm pretty sure this will work as long as either the inverter or transfer switch is grounded to the frame then they can be grounded together. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Great video and very well done install, just what I was looking for, Thanks
Thank you very much for the feedback, I'm happy it was helpful for you :)
Curious about when you are connected to shore power if the converter charger and solar panels are both charging batteries? I assume charge controller and upgraded converter charger are both charging at the same time. Guess that would be ok. And I like the remotes switch idea. Great job, I have the same trailer just different configuration. Thank you very much for your time making the video, great help
Thanks for watching, and your question & comments. Yes when we are connected to shore power with the solar charging the batteries the converter charger will come on if the batteries fall below into lower levels and will turn off once they reach a level where the solar panels are significantly charging them again
perfect video very explained, thank you very much
You're welcome and thank you so much for watching :)
You always do nice clean detailed work.
Thank you so much for the compliment and for watching
I appreciate that your video focuses on travel trailers. Most focus on motor homes which have a lot more room to work withs, so thanks. A question re: your transfer switch and charger/converter. Is there a reason you didn't go with an inverter with an ATS and converter built in? Is it b/c you already had an ATS and charger/converter and it was more economical to just buy the inverter, or is there a benefit to having separate components?
Thank you Jeffery. That's a good question.......I just went this route because I was just using what I had to avoid additional cost. In the future I may replace my lead acid batteries with Lithium batteries and at that time I may have to change out my charger/controller at the same time. If I do this I will share a video on the process. (I'm on the fence on replacing the lead acid batteries, the lead acid batteries have been working fine for me so far, I'm waiting to see how long they last)
Looks like the 15 amp fuse you installed should go to the hot side of the transfer switch.
It is, I just looked at the video and the diagram in the video and it is :) Maybe I'm not seeing what you are seeing?
Thank you very informative. How many amp hour battery do you have on this setup
Thank you for commenting, asking a question and watching. Here's Links that you may like showing the battery install of the lead acid batteries ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html and the lithium batteries I installed ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.html and the Smart Shunt I installed ua-cam.com/video/ksCivLNIzEQ/v-deo.html And a link to all my videos - ua-cam.com/users/MichaelBracewellTheTravelTrailerGuyvideos
Note: I do my best to have links to the products I use in the description area below each video that may be helpful to you
Perfect video! Exactly what I was looking for. I am doing the exact same thing. I have a couple questions for you: this may sound dumb but I’m in electrical newbie- How come you used 10/3 wire from the inverter to the AC panel? Doesn’t 10/3 have two hots? Also, Why didn’t you ground the transfer switch to the grounding bus bar of the main AC panel? Seems like that would’ve been easier than drilling through and installing a new chassis ground. Again, thanks for all your help. You saved me a ton of time
That's great I'm happy this helped you. Here's a link to the 10/3 wire - amzn.to/3jCvpre I used the 10/3 wire because of the distance I was running it and so it would be sized a little larger in case I wanted to upsize my inverter in the future. I could have wired the ground as you mentioned but I decided to just attach it to the frame instead, it can be done either way :)
200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter:
amzn.to/38FmZdY
Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram -
amzn.to/3vmkerD
Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter -
amzn.to/3vmkgQh
Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery -
amzn.to/30FmYSW
2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter -
amzn.to/3eLyap4
(For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet -
amzn.to/3hvuAkv
(For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp -
amzn.to/3uRpwuw
On off switch battery switch to inverter -
amzn.to/3vjVZKR
Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter -
amzn.to/2NokG7K
10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch -
amzn.to/3jCvpre
8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer -
www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI...
15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2
15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF
Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
@@thetraveltrailerguy thanks! Huge help. Oh one last question- for the 15amp fuse you installed for the controller, does it have to be an fnm fuse? Could I just use an inline glass fuse? Thabks!
@@robertmdrew Unfortunately from what I have read a in line glass fuse will not work. Feel free to ask as many questions as you like anytime
great video, but there's only one question. Why are you using 6v battery bank instead of 12? I would think it would be easy to throw a breaker on this type.
Thank you for watching and your question Dennis. Having 4 - 6 volt batteries supply more amp hours than 2 - 12 volt batteries so this is why I went this route.
I later replaced these 6 volt batteries with 2 lithium Battle Born 12 volt batteries, they may cost more (you can find them on sale around holidays) but will last longer since you can drain them all the way down rather than with the lead acid batteries where you can only drain them down to only 50%; another advantage to Lithium Batteries is they recharge much faster than lead acid batteries and have a much longer life. Here's the video showing me installing the Lithium batteries and what I had to do to accomplish this. ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.htmlsi=Ykm_wLpyKMXsbpsa
You would think that transfer switch manufactures would add that 15 amp circuit as standard equipment.
I agree with you 100%, it would be so easy
What a superbly done video Michael, and thank you so much for providing it. I have been struggling to fully understand how to do exactly what you have accomplished here for some time, and thanks to you I finally do! The only issue that I have with your instructions and wiring method is that there is no longer a way to turn off the converter beside pulling the new 15A fuse that you installed in the transfer box. I previously installed an upgraded charger section made by Progressive Dynamics in my old Magnatek unit that has a bulk phase charging current of 30A, which when engaged really maxes out my 2.8 KW Onan genny when I also run my AC off of it. I'm thinking that all I would need to do would be to install a switch in my converter/charger hot lead before it's connection in the transfer switch. I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that when it's turned off I would still have 12V available throughout the RV. Does that sound doable to you, or do you have a better suggestion?
Thank you for watching, I appreciate it. I do these videos to try and help others. Regarding your questions/comments - "The only issue that I have with your instructions and wiring method is that there is no longer a way to turn off the converter beside pulling the new 15A fuse that you installed in the transfer box." This is true that the way I have this wired I would have to pull the fuse to disconnect the converter, I may be installing a shut off switch in the near future prior to the fuse and this should be easy to do. I have a 3500 watt and 2000 watt inverter generator's and when I run the 2000 watt and the converter/charger is charging my batteries with the full amps it provides (from the converter/charger) and I run my microwave the 2000 watt generator will kick out....but once the batteries are charged and the converter/charger is not putting out much to the batteries the microwave will run and off the 2000 watt generator not problem. I am 99% sure that when the converter/charger is turned off the trailer will still have 12 volts available throughout the RV , one way to tell if this is true is to turn the converter/charger off and see if you still have 12 volt power to everything (this is something I will try soon since you brought it up and I will reply back with how it went) - Here's the switch I was thinking about getting - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KPEFL2I/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thanks a bunch for the reply! I'm no electrician, and I'm glad I ran this by you, as I didn't think that I would need to buy a switch that switches both hot and neutral legs. Nice looking switch too! I did check to see if 12V is still available with the charger is turned off and you're right, no worries there...
@@thetraveltrailerguy Hey Michael, it seems like a standard 15A wall mount light switch would work fine actually.
@@cwsmith7366 We are thinking the same. I just installed a 16 amp on/off switch yesterday on the power box cover (just under the door) and connected the wires from the inverter/converter directly to it and it works great. Here's what I bought from the shelf at Home Depot - www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-16-Amp-LED-Illuminated-Round-Hole-Rocker-Switch-GSW-50/205971618?cm_mmc=hd_email-_-A-BR2-_-20190717_RTGSMART_3410293-_-BRT_Product_Hero_Image&et_rid=69913157
@@thetraveltrailerguy Nice looking switch. I was going to use a leftover SPST 20A rocker switch mounted in the same area but I think Ill buy one of the one you used too. Nice looking, big enough and I like the fact that it's also lit when on. However, my thinking is that it only needs to be installed in the hot wire going to the converter. Is that what you did? You said the inverter/converter, and I'm guessing you meant to say charger/converter?
Great job on the video and install. I had been looking for a relatively simple install for the transfer box for my Rockwood Roo to incorporate my solar panels and existing power with generator and power inverter. (My setup is almost identical to yours.... I also have 4 - 6v batteries). I eventually found your channel with a nice clear explanation of how to install the transfer switch.... THANKS!
I did take a snap shot of your transfer box from your video and labeled all the components and made a PDF file of it. I also have another PDF of my planned wiring schematic. Would you be interested in me sending them to you to see if I have the wiring correct. - Thanks again for the nice work and effort in sharing it. - JOHN
Thank you so much for your compliments John, I appreciate it. It would be great if you can send me your PDF, I would love to see it. You can email me at . If you can can you please put Transfer Switch PDF in the subject line so I know its you?
Thanks for reply. I loosened the screws till they fell out and there still wasn't enough room - could be newer models of the 2000 watt Renogy have less tolerance/"slop".
But I got it done. Next question involves the exact wires/cables going to the transfer switch. The leads from the inverter and the shore line are no brainers. What isn't real clear is EXACTLY which cable(s) in the converter/charger go where.
The incoming orange cable from the shore power plug is now going to the transfer switch. Actually a brand new orange cable is coming in from the shore plug to the transfer switch, so the original orange cable is still connected to the 30-amp breaker in the panel. Where does that go? Is that now the "panel" lead that goes to the transfer switch, or is it the "charger" (converter) lead?
Let's say it's the "Panel" lead. In that case, exactly what cable becomes the "charger" (converter) lead?
Your video just flashed by these connections with out delving into the details. I think you spliced in a section of orange wire, but that isn't clear (at least to me!).
Overall it's a GREAT video! I just need some clarification. If you're out of communication, I hope others will let me know the exact details. We're supposed to be leaving in two days, but not if I can't compete this project. 🙂
I sure hope this answers your question, if not please let me know. Sorry for the confusion.
"Let's say it's the "Panel" lead. In that case, exactly what cable becomes the "charger" (converter) lead?"
Watch the video here that explains how to do this -
ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=RkN5KiQoZcvODL7Z&t=914
"The incoming orange cable from the shore power plug is now going to the transfer switch. Actually a brand new orange cable is coming in from the shore plug to the transfer switch, so the original orange cable is still connected to the 30-amp breaker in the panel. Where does that go? Is that now the "panel" lead that goes to the transfer switch, or is it the "charger" (converter) lead?"
Look at this picture and to see the 110 volt wiring for shore power and AC panel wiring
ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=LG8N9W-kOZhQsmpD
And watch the video here -
ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=DSXwAnEs6lWJalro&t=1378
Awesome explanation and instructions!
Thank you Heather and thank you for watching
You're using Go Powers GP-TS but you're linking TS-30? Which switch did you go with? I'm looking to do this but I don't need a transfer switch for the generator/shore power. I just want to wire my inverter to power the whole rv
Good catch :) I went with this switch (link to it is in the description below video) If you open the link you will see the TS-30 and if you open the other picture on it you will see the diagram that I show in the video that says GP-TS. Here is the link to what I installed - Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram -
amzn.to/3vmkerD
Hi Michael, great video and explanations. I have a battery charger, Gen set and a transfer switch (Progressive Dynamics) but NO Inverter. I noticed that you show the Gen set and shore power going to the same terminals, I realize that you don't use both at the same time or are you showing it to be hookup for one or the other. With all the youtube stuff out there yours makes the most sense but my head is spinning from all the info. I want to hook up a 3000W unit and my shore power is 50 Amps. At some point I want to do solar. By the way, I'm a newbie to RV'ing.
Hello Joseph, thank you so much. What is happening on mine is that the Shore Power / Generator (not an onboard generator but a portable generator) plug is on the side of the trailer and I plug in either shore power from it into a electrical service source. When not connected into a electoral service source I plug the generator into the side of the trailer. I'm not sure if this makes any sense to you? I bet your head is spinning, mine sure was from watching so many videos on doing this before I did and after I hooked it all up I did a triple check to make sure everything was right before I closed my eye and tried it. It worked as planned :) Are you saying you want to hook up to a 3000 watt inverter? If so what would you like to run with the inverter? What batteries do you have and how many? Solar is the way to go, I really enjoy ours. Welcome to RVing you are going to love it. Have you seen my other videos (around 50 of them) and have you subscribed? I will be coming out with some more videos in the near future.
I see you grounded the converter in the AC panel and the inverter in the switch. How about everything else. A brief description would be so helpful. Thanks in advance.
Sure I can get back to you on Saturday, I’m camping right now with a poor internet connection
@@michaelbracewell103 great. Thanks.
@@gene_in_real_life if you skip to 20:36 minutes into the video you will see the green ground wire that comes from the automatic transfer switch through the wall and then goes down through the floor, I then connected the green ground wire to the trailer frame of the trailer directly below the floor where the wire comes out. At 22:50 minutes into the video I explain where the green wire goes. And at 22:29 minutes you can see where I connected the green wire in the Automatic transfer switch box. Here's the link to the transfer switch, this also shows the wiring digram I am refering to in the video - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00153EYTO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I sure hope this answers your question, if not please let me know
@@thetraveltrailerguy that helped a ton. Thanks a million!
@@gene_in_real_life Your welcome :)
excellent video, just installed the same system on my trailer, does your inverter have to be on to work the lights only, or does it come directly from your battery. My electrician installed mine where my inverter has to be on to use outlets.
Thank you James. Our inverter does not have to be on to operate our interior lights but our battery shut off switch located by the batteries does since the lights operate on 12 volts (does you inverter have to be on in order to turn on interior lights?). Our inverter must be on in order to use power from the 110 volt outlets since the inverter converts 12 volt power to 110 volts. I hope this helps you answer your questions. Thanks for watching, commenting and asking questions. This is how we all learn
Very impressive. Such a clean installation. Will you encase exposed wiring underneath with wrap or conduit? I could see that eroding over time.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting :) Great question, I thought about wrapping the wiring but felt it wasn't necessary since there are other wires under the trailer that are very similar and are doing fine plus they are all protected from the weather elements so they should be fine. I did this close to 3 years ago and the wires still look like the day I installed them. I must say I'm very happy with how this project worked out and works for us, its so nice to be able to flip a switch and have everything powered up with 110 volts. I'm not sure if you are a subscriber but I want to give you a heads up.....My four 6 volt batteries are close to 4 years old and have been great but I've decided to change them out to Lithium batteries. You might like watching this video, keep an eye out for it. Take care
Thanks for ur video but...Isn't this quite a lot of circuitry for just a TV, Microwave, phones/computer and shaver charger?
It may be but its nice to have power to run these things. Most of our camping is without hookups and we camp around 100+ days a year so for us its worth it. And a bonus is we hardly ever have to run our generator. Thanks for watching :)
Good job Michael.
Thank you
Great video, been looking through a lot of them for this kind of install. What if I use a DC-DC charger with MPPT for later solar set-up. instead of the RV charger, how do you recommend wiring it up? Any feedback would helpful.
Thank you and thank you for watching. This link may answer your questions, it also has a wiring diagram - www.renogy.com/dcc30s-12v-30a-dual-input-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/
Thanks for a great video. I'm curious why you chose 4 6v batteries vs. the "high tech" stuff. Also wondering about the total ah's for the 4 6v'ers. BTW I'm headed down this rabbit hole for my 19ft. 1985 bigfoot. Upgraded with on demand propane hot water heater and efficient 120v/12v propane-less fridge. 200w solar with battery charger/controller. Hope to hear from you. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to write.
The 4 - 6 volt batteries have a total amp hours of 840 or 210 AH per battery but since you should only run the battery to no less than 50% you can only use 420 AH. The total weight for the 4 batteries is 232 pounds. I went this route because of limited money I had at the time.
A few years later replaced the 4 - 6 volt lead acid batteries with 2 - 12 volt Battle Born 100 AH Lithium Batteries (I highly recommend going with Lithium batteries, they can be run down to 0%, recharge much faster than lead acid batteries, are a much lighter battery, and last many more years to)
Here's the video - ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.htmlsi=t4uF-aXh4Txk_auF
Watch this video also - ua-cam.com/video/ksCivLNIzEQ/v-deo.htmlsi=9zZBqq7hPuE_69bh
I hope this information is helpful, feel free to ask more questions if you like.
Michael Bracewell "The Travel Trailer Guy" is a Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying Amazon purchases by you using the Amazon links below at no additional cost to you. Thank you
Total Cost is around $500 for everything May 2019
Here's links to most of the items purchased for this installation -
10/2 NM-B x 15' Non-Metallic Electrical Cable -
amzn.to/3SvdYeH
200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter:
amzn.to/38FmZdY
30 Amp Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram -
amzn.to/3vmkerD
If you have 50 Amps you will need the automatic transfer switch (the 30 amp will not work on a 50 amp RV) -
amzn.to/3aXesau
Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter -
amzn.to/3vmkgQh
Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery -
amzn.to/30FmYSW
2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter -
amzn.to/3eLyap4
(For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet -
amzn.to/3hvuAkv
(For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp -
amzn.to/3uRpwuw
On off switch battery switch to inverter -
amzn.to/3vjVZKR
Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter -
amzn.to/2NokG7K
10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch -
amzn.to/3jCvpre
8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer -
www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI...
15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2
15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF
Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thank you very much for your response. I would like to take you up on your offer for another question.
If I send you a short comprehensive list of appliances and then a short list of equipment that I think I should buy, would you kindly assess that list and correct me or suggest better alternatives?
Regardless, I will make a point of purchasing my equipment through your links to Amazon.
Tankless hot water heater=12V 3.8A
Fridge=12V 5.6A
Electric kettle 120V 1100W
Microwave 120V 900A
Toaster 120V 1000W.
Lights are all LED.
Portable A/C unit 120V 1100W
Intend to buy;
200A Lithium (2x100A) or 1x230W
2000W Renogy inverter
2x100W Solar panel with Bateria Solar Charge Controller 20A (max 300W )
Renogy 500A Battery monitor
Go Power TS-30A Auto Transfer Switch..
A inline 30A fuse 12V. between the battery and inverter.
I thought I would retain the existing 12V/120V fuse/breaker panel and add a fuse block with bus bar for future minor expansion such as 12V radio.
The camper has a 30A 120V extension cable for shore power.
Please offer any advice/suggestion you deem necessary to help me avoid any mistake.
Thank you in advance.
Wolfgang
@@montwolfman Sounds like you have a fun and worth while project on your hands.
Couple questions:
1) Do you have a link to share with me to a trailer that is like yours so I can see exactly what you have (maybe there is a video on line showing one)?
2) How often do you you plan on going camping where you have no hook ups?
3) How many days per year do you camp?
4) Do you have a generator? If so what one do you have?
5) What state do you live in? A state you can camp year round or just during the spring and summer months?
6) What brand batteries are you looking at?
I'm thinking you should buy this set up if you can afford it, it may be a little more money but its worth it and if you don't you will wish you did later. The solar charge controller is very efficient and you can see what everything is doing your smart phone. I originally bought 2 - 100watt panels and later added 2 more because I found I could get better charging of the batteries on not so clear days. amzn.to/3zgGM3X
Have you watched these videos?
ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.htmlsi=2dyEmQQs1TctPGVm
ua-cam.com/video/BXyL_d34zy4/v-deo.htmlsi=gkLwHFVizrmPFkoE
@@thetraveltrailerguy Hi Michael.
Thank you for your reply.
1) Sorry no link but it's a 1987 Bigfoot 19ft.
Worth the investment because of the single seam in the middle design.
2) Have not been camping but plan to 4 or 5 times a year, 3 or 4 days at a time from late spring to early fall due to Utah's harsh winters. We live in N.E. Utah...a long days drive takes you to sunny Az. N.M.
4) I own an Onan 3.5kw. Prefer to use it only when all else fails (lack of Sun etc.
5) Considering LItime 23ah or DCHouse 200ah or 2x LItime100ah.
Not sure what to choose. Prefer slight overkill to allow for future expansion.
Thanks for the video links. I'll watch them shortly.
I just found a couple of Renogy 200 W Solar Flexible Kit 20 amp or 50 amp. What is your opinion on the flexible panels? Would like to have solar installed on our 2506, but so confused as to what we need to make this happen.
www.gonewiththewynns.com/flexible-rv-solar-issues-review I'm going to message you through Facebook
Great Vid! How many amp hours are your batteries? Also from your diagram, it looks like the generator and shore tie together in at the ATS. I have a generator as well, so just find my leads and connect per your diagram? PS: Sure like the way you teach/spell things out! Happy New Year!!
Thank you Blaine and thank you for watching. Here's link to the Interstate batteries I used from Costco (best price) - www.costco.com/interstate-6-volt-golf-cart-battery.product.100476406.html / Its important to know you can only run these batteries down to 50% or they will become damaged.
Specifications:
Group Size: GC2
Part Number: 9-GC2-UTL
Voltage: 6
Reserve Capacity(RC) @ 25Amps: 105
Reserve Capacity(RC) @ 75Amps: 175
Amp Hours(Ah) @ 20Hr: 210
Amp Hours(Ah) @ 5Hr: 175
Length: 10 5/16"
Width: 7 1/8"
Height: 11"
Weight: 58lbs
Keep your eye out for a video I should be putting out in a couple weeks of me changing out these batteries (that are still working fine) to 2 - 12 volt lithium Battle Born Batteries (Amazon Affiliate Link - amzn.to/31VinjM ) and installing a new converter/charger to charge them.
Yes just connect your 110 volt 30 amp wires into the Automatic Transfer Switch that come from the power inlet on the side of your trailer. When you plug into shore power it will do its thing automatically and if you are plugged into your generator it will recognize the power as shore power and work the same. Thanks so much for your comments, you made my day. Have you seen my other videos? - ua-cam.com/users/MichaelBracewellTheTravelTrailerGuyvideos
@@thetraveltrailerguy Super fast response, thx. Trying to run same inverter, but only 125ah. Tech support says I need 10% of rated output of my inverter. So 200ah, thats why I checked with you, those 6v of yours are STRONG.
@@blaineanderson2432 No problem, thanks for sharing information with me. I learn something new everyday
I've watched a lot of videos on inverter installs but this one made the most sense to me, especially since I have a similar trailer (2018 Flagstaff Microlite 25BRDS). Many of the videos go way too fast - thanks for taking the time to explain thoroughly. You did a great job! Did you consider removing the corrugated plastic membrane from the bottom of the trailer before doing the install and then reattaching later?
Thank you Ross for the great feedback and for watching. I'm lucky that our trailer did not come with the corrugated plastic membrane and I have found no need to put on on since we live in California and have found that the trailer stay plenty warm for us. we do travel to other states and have been in very cold conditions and have not had a problem with heating the inside of the trailer. Good catch on seeing there is no cover on the bottom, out of the 47,000+ people to watch this video you are the first one to catch this :)
One detail you didn't address is how you eliminate powering the refrigerator from the inverter. Is your refrigerator not powered by shore power (120 volts)?
You brought up a great question and I should have mentioned this in the video. Our refrigerator can be powered off either shore power and propane. When I started using this system I noticed the batteries draining a little faster than I thought they would with our power usage and and I finally figured out that is was the refrigerator. Since or refrigerator can run on either shore power or just propane I switch it to gas only when using our inverter.
Which side of the transfer switch did you wire your inverter into? There's three sets of wires on the transfer switch, one is shore power in, second is generator, and third is panel......also, what process do you go through to get your batteries to charge? Just shut down inverter?
You can pause the video at 4:09 minutes to see how everything is wired or open the Amazon link to the Automatic transfer switch and then open the second picture of the product to see the wiring diagram. - amzn.to/3vmkerD The batteries will only charge if the inverter is turned off and if you are hooked up to shore power: or generator: or if you have solar
@@thetraveltrailerguy thanks Mike. I have a different model transfer switch, and the same inverter (but the 3000) and a couple of other people had their hands in the wiring after I originally set it up, so it wasn't charging, and I had to determine if it was an issue of needing a sub panel etc to connect it or if there was another possible issue causing it not to charge. Your answer is right in line with my original installation, so I removed what the campground "electrician" did and went back to my original setup which is pretty much what you have, and it's working again. Thanks for the response, I appreciate it Mike.
@@shawnseekins3424 You're welcome, I'm sure happy you got the problem resolved :)
Michael you used 12/2 Romex for the charger extension to the Gopower ATS, right? Did you connect the bare copper ground in the 12/2 Romex to the green wire on your charger? I don't see a bare ground copper wire inside the bottom your charger. Or did you buy and use a separate green wire for ground to go from inside the charger's green wire to the ATS ground bar? EDIT: I think I see what did at 15:45 -- you left the charger (green) ground wire on the charger bar and then added the copper from the 12/2 romex there. Then the other end would have been connected to the ground bar in the ATS.
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, we were out of town.
Michael you used 12/2 Romex for the charger extension to the Go Power ATS, right? YES
EDIT: I think I see what did at 15:45 -- you left the charger (green) ground wire on the charger bar and then added the copper from the 12/2 romex there. Then the other end would have been connected to the ground bar in the ATS.
YES THIS IS WHAT I DID
@@thetraveltrailerguy thank you!
Hi Mike. Question about hooking this inverter up using Romex loop. Our trailer is pre-wired and we aren't sure what to do with the loop when we splice it in half. One side would go to the inverter, but what about the other side? We have one 200w solar panel and 2 12v deep cycle batteries. Also, why have the 200A ANL fuse between the inverter and battery? Thanks so much!
Good Question. What you do is find the wire that comes off the main breaker (the wire for 30 amp is usually orange) what I did was remove that wire from the breaker and run it to a junction box as you can see here ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.html (this wire comes from the outside power inlet (shore power) and then from the junction box where I connected a new wire I bought to the original shore power wire I ran that wire to the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) (the reason I used the junction box is because the wire from the shore power was not long enough to reach the Automatic Transfer Switch so I made the splice in the box. I then connected a new 10/2 (orange wire) from the main breaker in the A/C panel directly to the Automatic Transfer Switch.
Regarding why I have a 200A ANL fuse - I contacted Renogy to ask them what size fuse I need to install between the battery and inverter and below is what they said in a email (You can also see this email and a list with links to the materials I used for the project in the description below the UA-cam video). it is important to install fuses or breakers between the battery and devices so if the wire ever or anything else shorts out the fuse will blow and prevent a short from possibly blowing up your batteries or cause a fire. I hope this answers all your questions and they were written so you can understand them. Feel free to ask more questions if you like, I'm happy to help. Here's what Renogy said about the fuse size -
From: Order Support support@renogy.com
Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021, 08:21:25 AM PDT
Subject: Re: What size fuse do I need? Renogy
Hello Mike Bracewell,
Thank you for reaching out to Renogy Support!
I hope you're doing well. You may put a 200A ANL fuse in between your battery bank and 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter. The rule of thumb that we use here would be “Continuous Watts / Battery Voltage times 1.25 safety factor of 25%.
Thank you so much and stay healthy!
Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram -
amzn.to/3vmkerD
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thanks, Mike! So appreciate your video. We ended up switching our inverter to one with an automatic switch. It also has an in and out place to put the wires. My husband will check to see which is hot and which is not. We also ordered the fuse and box you referenced above. I hope this will cover everything. Thank you again!!
Hi Michael. Last year I had purchased Renogy Rover 40amp MPPT charger with blue tooth and 3 x100 watt folding solar panels and installed them in a 2008 Orbit, then purchase a Renogy 2000w inverter to instal this year. Looking for ideas on how to install the system I found your excellent video with exactly the system that I wanted., further purchased the additional wires and transfer switch. Was set to install when we decided to upgrade our trailer to a 2016 Connect 260rks with enclosed underbelly. Would you have any suggestions on how to make the instal? Thanks again for the
Thank you so much for your kind comments. I have had people that have commented to me that have removed the underbelly where they wanted to run the wires and then reinstalled it with fender washers and self tapping screws if the underbelly is riveted in place. If it is already installed with self tapping screws you can remove them and reinstall them. I hope this helps. Here's a link to what others have done to remove the underbelly that may help you - ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=removing+a+underbelly+from+a+trailer+of+rv
Good afternoon Michael, The only thing left for me to do was to hard wire the 10-2 to the inverter, the #10 wire will not fit, how did you do it. I bought everything from your list which made it nice.
Hello Robin - Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I think someone else had the same question awhile ago. What we discovered was he did not have the screws backed out all the way and the wires would not go in. Once he did that the wires went in no problem. Have you checked to make sure this is not the case? Please let me know if this works or not
@@thetraveltrailerguy I did that as well, #12 works, 10 did not.
@@robinfulton9057 Interesting, I'm not sure why the 10 didn't work
Is this the wire you tried to use or something else?
10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch -
amzn.to/3jCvpre
@@thetraveltrailerguy I used a solid 10-2 wire, the braided would have been easier
Michael looking at the diagram at 12:42 , I'm assuming you installed your new little rocker led switch (16amp / 120v) to the right of the converter's 15 amp fuse? Since the incoming power for the converter/ charger is coming from the shore power connection on the right side of the transfer switch. Would that be correct?
Woops, sorry I did not see this to reply to you earlier. Yep that would be correct :)
I don't understand how your charger/converter works during shore power? It's there to power the DC and charge the battery. Does it still do both while you are on shore power? Also your inverter is to come on and power your AC outlets when you are disconnected. Or does it always power your AC outlets even when you are on shore power?
Great questions Kim - Yes while on shore power the charger/converter charges the battery, the Automatic Transfer Switch allows this to happen and when I run on the 2,000 watt inverter the Automatic Transfer Switch recognizes the inverter is on and the shore power is disconnected and does no allow the charger to run because if it did allow this power would just be going in circles. I turn on my inverter to power all my outlets when not connected to shore power and usually only turn it on when I need power and off when I don't. When I am on shore power I don't turn it on. I hope this helps answer your questions
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thanks for your answer. Just wondered, what happens with the TS when you go off shore power and the inverter isn't on?
@@kimfreeborn No problem. When you unplug shore power and the inverter isn't on 110 Volts will not be supplied to trailer outlets. What I do is leave my inverter switch in the off position (the switch I put inside the trailer) and only turn it on when when we need it, So when we go to a site with shore power I just plug into shore power. And when we dry camp I use the power off the inverter.
I haven't put together my system yet. I've been asking questions to try and see if this would work for me. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't. Thanks for your patience. Do you have any suggestions?
@@kimfreeborn Have you seen my videos on batteries and solar installations? What trailer do you have? Batteries - ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html Solar Panels Part 1 - ua-cam.com/video/j4a9MkLRJN4/v-deo.html Solar Panels Part 2 - ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html
Hi, Can you provide a bit more info on the fuse and charger wiring. 1. Why 15 amp. Does that match the breaker? 2. I believe you said the yellow wire is a yellow. That is 12AWG. Why did you select that AWG. Isn't the wiring on the battery charger 14 AWG ? 3. So the wiring goes from WFCO charger> to fuse > to ??. Thank you
1. Why 15 amp. Does that match the breaker? -
The converter/charger was wired to a 15 amp breaker, I contacted both Go Power and Progressive Dynamics to confirm installing a 15 amp fuse to replace the breaker and they both said this was the way it needed to be protected.
2. I believe you said the yellow wire is a yellow. That is 12AWG. Why did you select that AWG. Isn't the wiring on the battery charger 14 AWG ? -
So if I remember correctly it is a 12 AWG wire and not a 14 AWG wire. (Information Sharing: A 12 AWG wire is fine to replace a 14 AWG wire and not the other way around)
3. So the wiring goes from WFCO charger> to fuse > to ??.
It comes off the fuse to the Automatic Transfer Switch Normally Open Hot "NO -HOT" as you can see in this diagram in the video ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.html at the 12:41 minute mark.
I hope this makes sense and is helpful.
Mike
www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
@@thetraveltrailerguy One more thing, how did you attach the fuse to the transfer switch? thank you
Oh, one more thing. The rocker switch you installed to turn the converter off, only has to have the black(hot ) wire. Correrct? Didit go between the fuse and converter? Does the switch need a ground to the bus bar in the trnasfer switch. Thank you
@@stuartrichman9253 No problem. Open this link and scroll down to page 4 and you will see how I did it in the wiring diagram :) gopowersolar.com/wp-content/uploads/Documents/PDF/Manual_GP-TS-30-PREWIRED.pdf?fbclid=IwAR2rwNCbuwG2Z-tzhFp58Q-R7nX6-FFbBR3l56W1tBtzl2ID0ZlbdADp9P8
I'd like to know how you got 10 gauge wires on the output of the inverter - those little terminals are too small for a 10 ga wire. I've tried and tired, but no luck - 10 ga is just too big, period. I'm at an impasse here.
I had someone else awhile go that was having the same problem getting the wire in. I told them to make sure the opening for the wire was all the way open and it would fit. They did this and it worked. Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier, we are on a long road trip and have not had reception to reply until now.
So how is the inverter working out for you? The reviews are mixed. I'm thinking people aren't hooking them up right. Thanks for your help
Hello Zach, the inverter and automatic transfer switch were installed close to two years ago and we have used it a lot with no problems, it still runs everything we want it to run and works great. Are the people saying the inverter is not working for them or the automatic transfer switch? If its the inverter they are having problems with it may be caused from them not using the proper sized wire sizes from the batteries to the inverter and/or using the improper wire sizes to the transfer switch. There are several people that have watched my video and done the exact same set up on their RV and have gotten back to me that their system is working great
They don't really say mostly just that the unit's either don't work at all or throwing the fault. I agree though I think its improper wire size. Do you think the 4 golf cart batteries would be ok with the 3000 watt renogy or would i need more? Thanks again for the info.
@@zachgannon1788 What do you plan on running with the 3000 watt? I have found I can run everything with our 2000 watt with no problems, we don't go nuts running the microwave for long periods which is a big draw or a toaster oven. I would not recommend running your air conditioner with the inverter because this battery or pretty much any battery solar set up you have would not keep up with the demand and your batteries would be low real quick. If you get the 3000 watt and just run everything except the A/C you should be okay.
I'd like to run a cpap at night. If my math is correct is about 450 watts. one of the places we stay wont allow generator use after 10 p.m. which is understandable. So i definitely need the enough power to get through the night. Thank you for your time
@@zachgannon1788 You're welcome :)
What size wall strap snd rubber grommets did you use with your 2/0 wires fromBatteries? Looks really dice and clean this way.
The 2/0 wire outside diameter is 14.10 mm or .55 inches 9/16" Inside Diameter amzn.to/3uSxjZ8 and 1/2" wire clamps amzn.to/2S0L7SB (These are for the 2/0 wire and you would need different sizes for other wires)
@@thetraveltrailerguy Excellent. Thanks for the reply despite my bad texting. Your set up is NICE and clean.
What are you using to seal the wires as you bring them in from under the trailer from the battery to the inverter and from the inverter to the transfer switch? Thanks in advance.
So here's what I used to seal the floor where I drilled and installed the wires - Clear Lexel Adhesive Caulk amzn.to/42vS39r
If my fifth wheel has 50 amp service would I need to get the Go Power! TS-50 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch? And wire it the same way? Thank you Michael.
Great question. Yes you would need to purchase a 50 automatic transfer switch a 30 amp switch will not work for you. See links below for wiring information
Here's a link to the transfer switch you need to purchase - amzn.to/3aXesau
Wiring will be a little different -support.gpelectric.com/kb/article/256-transfer-switch-wiring-diagrams-50-amp/
Here's a video that might be helpful on how to wire the 50 amp ATS. I sure hope this information is helpful to you - ua-cam.com/video/zTjOECEhYDM/v-deo.html
So whats charging your batteries if youre leaving the 15amp breaker off that powers your converter to create DC?
I understand leaving the converter off when the inverter is in use to keep the loop from happening.
But youll need power to regain full power on the 12v batteries when connecting to shore power.
Great question Chris I'm glad you asked. Once I turned off the breaker I rerouted the charger/converter wires through the Automatic Transfer Switch as you can see here in the video so everything goes through the fuse now instead, I hope this answers your question, if not please let me know - ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=fCT4K0KOG6oQSS9C&t=911
thanks for your reply. How far was your inverter away from your battery location. One way. thank you
It was just shy of 10 feet from the inverter to the batteries. Thanks so much for watching and your question.
Here's links to most of the items purchased for this installation -
200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter:
amzn.to/38FmZdY
30 Amp Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram -
amzn.to/3vmkerD
If you have 50 Amps you will need the automatic transfer switch (the 30 amp will not work on a 50 amp RV) -
amzn.to/3aXesau
Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter -
amzn.to/3vmkgQh
Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery -
amzn.to/30FmYSW
2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter -
amzn.to/3eLyap4
(For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet -
amzn.to/3hvuAkv
(For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp -
amzn.to/3uRpwuw
On off switch battery switch to inverter -
amzn.to/3vjVZKR
Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter -
amzn.to/2NokG7K
10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch -
amzn.to/3jCvpre
8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer -
www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI...
15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2
15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF
Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
You keep referring to the orange wire as if it were a single wire. Is it a single wire or like a 12/2 with ground? This is the only question that I have and thanks for the video!
My apologies for the confusion Edward. The orange jacketed contains one wire of each color; Black, White, and Ground. Its a 10/2 with a ground. Thanks for bringing this up and watching. Links to most of the products I used are listed below.
www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Here's links to most of the items purchased for this installation -
10/2 NM-B x 15' Non-Metallic Electrical Cable -
amzn.to/3SvdYeH
200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter:
amzn.to/38FmZdY
30 Amp Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram -
amzn.to/3vmkerD
If you have 50 Amps you will need the automatic transfer switch (the 30 amp will not work on a 50 amp RV) -
amzn.to/3aXesau
Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter -
amzn.to/3vmkgQh
Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery -
amzn.to/30FmYSW
2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter -
amzn.to/3eLyap4
(For 2/0 Wire) 9/16" Inside Diameter Rubber Grommet -
amzn.to/3hvuAkv
(For 2/0 Wire) 1/2 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp -
amzn.to/3uRpwuw
On off switch battery switch to inverter -
amzn.to/3vjVZKR
Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter -
amzn.to/2NokG7K
10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch -
amzn.to/3jCvpre
8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer -
www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI...
15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - amzn.to/31DZga2
15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - amzn.to/38FWvsF
Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : amzn.to/3tjnzGe
Thank you for the quick reply. I appreciate it.@@thetraveltrailerguy
Great video. Let be how tidy your installation is. Thanks.
Thank you very much
Did you connect a ground from the inverter to the trailer frame or connect it into
your grounds in the power panel or elsewhere?
Thanks for watching and your question. I hope this answers you question:
Play this video to see were the wires come from that power the inverter - ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=xXCqRSfAzSrIR43o&t=324
Play these videos to see the wires going out of the inverter to the transfer switch -
ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=qWjY7r_k-YeMOUVr&t=361
ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=_nqbvW9q1DJELQeJ&t=765
Play to watch where the ground wire goes from the transfer switch to the frame -
ua-cam.com/video/rkRzH0Ay1z0/v-deo.htmlsi=5CtOP-xN5zzJjV3Q&t=1353
What kind of charger did you use coming from the panel to the batteries when you’re connected to shore power?
I'm just using the same charger that came with the trailer in 2017. Someday I may be changing to Battle Born Lithium Batteries and if I do (not for awhile) I will be upgrading my charger.
Great Video Michael. From what I see you have your inverter wired to the "Power Cord" terminals on the transfer switch. And your shore power going the the "Gen Hot and Gen Neutral" on the transfer switch. Other youtubers have those two switched around. Does it matter?
Great question and thank you for watching. I wired everything like it shows in the diagram provided by Go Power. The 2000 watt inverter is wired to the transfer switch "NC" (Normally Closed) Hot & Neutral located at the top of the transfer switch. And the Generator/Shore Power is wired to the transfer switch "NO" (Normally Open) Hot & Neutral located on the sides of the transfer switch.
I'm curious as to why others have wired the transfer switch the other way other than the way I did (good catch by the way),
Can you please share a link here to the video you are watching so I can see what they did?
ua-cam.com/users/MichaelBracewellTheTravelTrailerGuyvideos
Oh and I just wanted to let you know that I just subscribed to your UA-cam Channel :) ua-cam.com/users/MANaboutTOOLSvideos
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thanks!!
Do you have a link to share so I can see what they did as I mentioned above?
@@thetraveltrailerguy ua-cam.com/video/jpICwTtAV_I/v-deo.html
I didn't think you could connect shore power AND generator power on the same incoming lines? I thought you had to have a transfer switch between the two?
The instructions that I received show it wired this way. The generator is not a on board generator and I plug it into the inlet on the outside of the trailer, its the same inlet that I use for shore power. So only one can be connected one at a time; Shore Power or Generator Power. Good question and catch
You are correct. You will burn siht up if you do.
Michael's "shore/Gen" input is ALWAYS via the Shore cable.
He plugs it into the generator when needed; and "Grid" when available.
He switches only 2 sources; Cable or Inverter.
I’m getting this inverter tomorrow. And installing it this week. How has it held up since you made this video? I’ve heard great things about this Renogy 2000w inverter.
I've had the inverter for close to two years now and so far so good. We camp every other week for 3 nights at a time and go on 30-40 day trips once per year and having this inverter along with our solar system and automatic transfer switch has been great. You will be very pleased with this inverter, feel free to contact Renogy if you have and questions, their staff are very helpful. I just subscribed to your channel :)
@@thetraveltrailerguy that’s awesome and thanks for subbing.
@@RVMediaCreators Let me know how you like your new inverter :)
I just purchased this exact transfer switch and will be installing it in a similar fashion. My only question is the direct wiring of the charger into the 30A shore power. I understand that the 15A fuse is meant to protect the hot wire to the converter, however is there an issue having a 30A input (shore power) tied directly to a 15A output (converter)?
It is important to wire the inverter/converter into the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) instead of leaving it connected directly to shore power as it is now. If you do not wire it through the ATS it will not shut off while running on inverter power, it is important to have it shut off while running 110 volt power off your inverter.
@@thetraveltrailerguy Thanks for the quick reply! I may be over-thinking this with all the research I have been doing. I am concerned that the power coming in the trailer from the 30A shore connection is too high for the 15A converter, but with A/C I don't think it is an issue as long as a fuse is placed in line as you did in your video.
@@nicholashoots5619 I understand your thinking. Its okay that you have 30 amps of power coming into your trailer, all this means is that you can only use 30 amps of power at a single time or a breaker will trip.....so for example if you are running your microwave and it draws 15 amps, and a hair drier drawing 10 amps, and a coffee pot drawing 10 amps (examples only) that would be 35 amps being drawn and the breaker will trip out. Does that make sense? So what is happening is the converter has a 15 amp fuse that will fail if the converter draws more than 15 amps. You had a good question
What size ringer terminals did you use for the 10/3 wire forN,G,L ? Mine aren’t fitting and am using #10 rings
I did not use any ring terminals to connect the 10/3 wires to the inverter.
Remove the cover with 2 screws under that you will 3 screws (this is where you are now), loosen all 3 screws as far as they will go, under the 3 screws on the side of this area you will see where you slide the wires into holes, then tighten the screws to hold the wires in place.
Note each of the individual copper wires will need to be twisted really tight in order to fit into these holes (some people struggle with getting them into the holes so be patient it can be done). I hope this helps, can you please let me know if it does?
Could you possibly zoom in a little closer.....When presenting wiring job show the whole layout....and point to the components.
Great suggestion
I see the 10/3 wire from the inverter to the transfer switch but only two wires diagrammed as connected. Is the third wire the earth ground which is connected to the box casing?
Great catch, yes the ground wire connects to the ground bar inside the Automatic Transfer Switch Box 12:45 minutes into the video. At 12:30 minutes into the video I mention the green wire (ground) going from the Automatic Transfer Switch Box ground bar to the trailer frame. I hope this helps answer your question.
There is a sea of inverters available to us. I've been considering Renogy, Samlex and Xantrex. Are you happy with your Renogy?
Yes there are so many inverters out there for sure. I chose the Renogy because I've seen so many good reviews on it and it was a good price. We have been using it for almost 2 years now and so far it has been working great with no problems. We use it around 60+ days a year. Thanks for watching
Why install an on/off switch when you can turn it on/off with the remote that is installed in the rv?
I installed on/off switches so if I need to replace or work on something I can isolate the device instead of disconnecting the batteries and killing the power to everything in the RV while doing so. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Cool video thanks for sharing very informative
Thank you Denny and thanks for watching
Nice job, Mike. Enjoy your videos. I just purchased the Renogy 2000 for our 30 travel trailer and was thinking of mounting in the front storage as well but wanted your thoughts. How loud is the Renogy when in use? I’m concerned about the noise since it would be in the area just under our pillows and don’t want to listen to it running all night. Secondly, does it generate a lot of heat? Do you leave your compartment door open when it’s in use? Thanks!
Thank you for watching and commenting :) You have good questions and I have answers to them. Regarding the noise I had the same concerns as you because our 2000 watt inverter is located right next to our pillows also. I can say we don't even hear it because its really quite even during different temperatures, the only time you hear it is when we turn it on it beeps a couple times to let us know its on. As for generating heat I installed it close to 3 years ago and it has not overheated and the compartment doesn't is not heating up from it so I have never had to leave the compartment door open. We live in California and are able to camp year round so we camp every other weekend at 3 to 4 night trips and try and go on 30-40 day trip a year and it has been working great. Question for you - Are you also going to install a Automatic Transfer Switch? I recommend you do, its great to have.
Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram -
amzn.to/3vmkerD
Great video as always. Thanks again for answering my questions. What happens if you upgrade to 2 6 volt batteries and buy a suitcase solar? What is the added benefit of the inverter?
Your welcome James and thank you. With two 6 volt batteries instead of one 12 volt battery will give usually give you more amp hours (more run time with two 6 volt batteries) I would go with having two 6 volt batteries over having one 12 volt battery.
Regarding your question about the solar suitcase it all depends on how much you use your 12 volt power in your trailer and for how many days you use it. A solar suitcase will allow you to recharge your batteries, from what I have seen most solar suitcases are around 100 watts so I'm not sure how quick the recharge rate of your batteries would be. I know several people that have the 100 watt suitcase and say they are very happy with the batteries recharging. Here's a site that talks about his solar suitcase - www.stresslesscamping.com/blog/2018/5/30/packing-solar-with-an-rv-solar-suitcase
The added benefit of having a inverter is you can run things in your trailer that require electrical power for appliances using 120 volts without this you can only use your 12 volt appliances such at fans, furnace, lights, water pump. With this 2,000 watt inverter we have I can pretty much run everything I have except our air conditioner. But we do not run things for long periods so we will not drain our lead acid batteries below 50% (going below 50% will damage the batteries and decrease their life). So with this inverter and our power demands we have four six volt lead acid batteries and four 100 watt solar panels (total of 400 watts) and this works very well for us when we have sun, if their is no sun or we are under trees we use out inverter generator to recharge our batteries.
Battery Video - ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html
200 Watt Solar Video - ua-cam.com/video/j4a9MkLRJN4/v-deo.html
400 watt Solar Video - ua-cam.com/video/3lDVBU4CFMM/v-deo.html
I hope this information answers your questions.
Mike
Thanks for posting this video. I'm thinking of going the same route. I was hoping you could answer 2 quick questions regarding your installation. 1: I was a little unclear about how you ran the converter/charger wires. The black hot wire was clear, but did you also remove the (green and white) neutral and ground from inside the power center and relocate them into the Transfer box? And 2: Maybe I missed it in your video, but what is the power on/off status of your Inverter when plugged into shore power. Does this Transfer switch shut it off, or do you need to manually turn it on and off. Thanks.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I was camping close to Yosemite last week. Thank you for watching. Question #1 - Skip to 51:10 minutes into the video (I now see that I could have explained this better after watching it) ....the black wire was removed from the 15 amp circuit breaker that went to the converter/charger I then ran new wire (12/2 wire) from the transfer switch directly to the converter/charger, the ground wire (copper) connects from the transfer switch buss bar to the buss bar in the AC panel, the green wire in the breaker box was never touched by me that connects to the converter/charger from the buss bar (I only connected the black and white wires to the converter/charger from the transfer switch and the copper ground wire as mentioned above) Question #2 - When connected to shore power the transfer switch automatically turns on the converter/charger and when shore power is off the converter/charger automatically shuts off (I do not have to have a manual switch its all done automatically through the transfer switch). I hope you understand what I'm saying. If you have more questions please feel free to ask. Here's a link to the Go Power Automatic Transfer switch wiring diagram - images.app.goo.gl/7swStPz1gK8pgqRv6
Hello
I just install the transfer switch like how you did. Everything works good. I have 4 6v Costco batteries like you, but they are 5 years old. Ones I turn the microwave on my remote control show low input. Batteries are fully charged. It drop to 11.5v with microwave working. It’s normal or you think I need new batteries?
Thanks
Hello Antonio, Its good to hear its all working for you.....you're going to like it. My Costco batteries are 2 1/2 years old and do the same thing as yours do when I run the microwave. Lets say while looking at my Bluetooth app on my cell phone the voltage on for the batteries shows 70% +/- and we turn the microwave on it can drop to around 11.5 volts like what's happen to you. But that's okay because when you watch the app on your phone the voltage goes back up (to the battery resting voltage) when the microwave turns off, and then your solar will work on getting your batteries changed up again. What we do is TRY not to run the microwave at night when there is no sun or if the batteries have less then around 65% of charge. I always like to have the sun around the batteries charge back up. If you must run the microwave after the sun goes down I would only do it for a short period of time. I hope this is help to you. Mike
Ok it’s good to know that. Thanks a lot 👍.
@@pelecho You're welcome, feel free to ask questions in the future. Take care
Where did you buy your battery box? That is a nice set up in front of your RV.
Thank you. Here is the video on the battery box, there are links to the parts I used in the description below the video, I hope this helps - ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html
@@thetraveltrailerguy thank you for the link. It helps a lot.
@@subicbay100 Your welcome
Question on the input from the inverter to the transfer switch...if the inverter has a 15amp outlet going to the transfer switch...why do you need a 10ga. wire? I'd imagine a 12/14ga. wire would be more than adequate. Am I wrong?
I used this site below to help me determine the size wire to use and also watched other videos of inverter installations of the 2000 watt inverter where other people were using the 10/3 wire. Maybe I could have used a 12/14 gauge wire but for my peace of mind and since it was only around a 20 foot run I decided to pay a little more and wire it this way - www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Whats the reason for 10/3? I was under the impression 10/ has 2 hot cables and 1 neutral.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIAVWAS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=A2TLTYG8U2QKGY&psc=1
I had the same question regarding traditional romex style 10/3 (hot1, hot2, neutral, bare ground) VS 10/2 romex (hot, neutral, bare ground). But I think I understand what's going on here. This is flexible, stranded wire, not solid core romex, so the ground needs to have insulation. The insulated ground appears to be considered the 3rd conductor.
Hi Michael, great video. I only need to connect my refrigerator to the inverter when traveling. I understand most of the wiring but still a little confused at the breaker panel. Do I disconnect the 15amp panel breaker and connect those wires to the ATS?
Yes disconnect the power at the 15 amp breaker and connect the wires through the ATS and don't forget to install a fuse inside the like I did in the video. By installing the ATS all your 110 volt power on the RV will become connected through the ATS including your refrigerator. You will need to make sure you also install a inverter to do so. www.youtube.com/@thetraveltrailerguy/videos
Mike, finally back home and got the residential frig installed. Now onto the inverter and the ATS.
I think I did what you suggested but I keep blowing my surge protector. So something is amiss.
I ran the cord from the inverter and connected it to the generator side of my WFCO TS-30 ATS.
I then disconnected the frig lead from my 15amp breaker in my control panel. I ran that disconnected line into the ATS and connected it to the shore power in side of the ATS. I figured it would be the hot line when I turned all the power back on.
Lastly, I took another 12/2 wire and ran it from the ATS panel side connecter and ran it back to the 15amp breaker in my control panel.
Again, all I'm trying to do is run the frig when we are on the road.
My problem is I keep blowing my surge protector, so something isn't working.
I know you must get tired of all the mail but I am hoping you will take pity on a fellow traveler and help me out.
Either way, I appreciate the chance to vent and write everything down.. Even that helps.
@@curtvandeen8425 Are you on Facebook under Curt Van Deen (with a picture of you holding a fish) If so I can send you a friend request or message you?
Yes, my 1st and only Muskie
@@curtvandeen8425 I just sent you a FB friend request
What about the refrigerator? Mine is propane and switches to shore power when plugged in. 1t will run off the inverter at this point or does it need to be isolated too?
You asked a great question Randy and I should have mentioned this in the video. When the inverter is on everything in the panel with 110 volts is powered up to operate. It is not enough to power the A/C but it also powers the refrigerator (Ours also runs on propane and 110 volts) Our does the same as yours and switches to shore power when plugged in and to propane when not plugged in.....But if you are not hooked up to shore power and have the inverter on it will be powered by the inverter 110 volts unless you switch your refrigerator to gas only. This works great if you don't want to have your propane on and run the refrigerator off the inverter power while driving.
Where is your diagram for the relay switch if you turn it on and off? and also diagram for your DC load?
The relay switch is a Automatic Transfer Switch so there is no need to have a on/off switch, it all happens automatically with this system. When you are plugged into shore power or generator the Transfer switch uses this power and when you are not hooked up to shore power or generator you turn on the Inverter switch and the Transfer switch recognizes this and power then comes from the inverter. I'm not sure what you are talking about when you say "and also diagram for your DC load?" Mike
@@thetraveltrailerguy Isnt the relay for the transfer switch has to be energized in order to activate the contacts normally open or normally closed? I did not see a wire circuit that connects to that coil relay. As for the DC loads. DC loads refers to the lights, motor pump, slide out and awning that rated 12 volts.
@@subicbay100 I'm sorry Earlwin I don't know how to answer your question "Isn't the relay for the transfer switch has to be energized in order to activate the contacts normally open or normally closed?" Go Power should be able to answer your question, they are very helpful 866-247-6527. Unfortunately I do not have a diagram for the DC loads, nothing came with the new trailer and I can't find it on the internet :( I'm sorry that I have not been much help to you on these questions and that it took so long to get back to you, we have been dealing with fires that came really close to our house in California but we are safe and okay.
How did you determine the fuse size coming off the inverter (200amp)? I have the same inverter and will be running an AC appliance up to 1500w. Inverter is 3 feet from the battery bank.
Hello Mike Bracewell,
Thank you for reaching out to Renogy Support!
I hope you're doing well. You may put a 200A ANL fuse in between your battery bank and 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter. The rule of thumb that we use here would be “Continuous Watts / Battery Voltage times 1.25 (safety factor of 25%).
Thank you for the informative video, great job! Can you provide a source for the terminals / standoffs in the battery box?
Thank you are you looking for the wires and terminals I used in the battery box from battery to battery?
Is this what you are looking for?
Here's links to my Solar & Battery Installations -
Solar - ua-cam.com/video/j4a9MkLRJN4/v-deo.html
Battery - ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html
Here's links to most of the items purchased for this installation and links at the bottom to my Solar & Battery Installation videos:
Total Cost is around $500 for everything May 2019
200 amp extra fuse for battery to inverter: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Go Power automatic transfer switch with wiring diagram - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Fuse holder with 200 amp fuse for battery cable to inverter - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Junction posts to run all your wires to that go to the battery - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
2/0 wire that goes from battery to inverter - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
On off switch battery switch to inverter - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Extra battery cable lug connectors if needed - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Renogy 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter (goes on sale sometimes for around $250) - www.amazon.com/Renogy-Inverte...
10/3 AC wire that goes from the Inverter to the transfer switch - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
8 Gauge ground wire (green) that goes from the transfer switch box directly to the frame of the trailer - www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-SI...
15 amp use holder that goes in transfer switch box for the charger/converter - www.platt.com/platt-electric-...
15 amp fuse that goes in transfer switch box for charger/converter (replaces 15 amp breaker) - www.homedepot.com/s/fnm%25201...
Electrical soldier for installing 2/0 battery connectors (note: do not use pipe soldier) : www.homedepot.com/p/The-Harri...
Here's a link to my battery installation: ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html
Here's a link to my solar installation: ua-cam.com/video/j4a9MkLRJN4/v-deo.html
Michael Bracewell yes, but I think I’ve since found something on Amazon Positive Insulated Battery Power Junction Post Block 3/8 Lug X 16 thread (Red) www.amazon.com/dp/B00784HYI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aokKEb5H3CY2K
What is the point of the battery disconnect between the battery and inverter? Sorry if it’s a dumb question
No question is a dumb question Travis :) I feel your question is a really good one. After thinking about it I probably don't even need the disconnect switch before the inverter The inverter has a shut off switch on it and at the remote shut off in the trailer , but its located in a hard to get to spot. I put the switch in so if I needed to shut the inverter off in a emergency should something go terribly wrong with it or if I wanted to remove the inverter without disconnecting the wires to the inverter at the batteries. Thank you so much for the question and watching my videos.
Alright Michael, ignore all my previous questions as I got them resolved. My next question is how the hell did you remove the black cap to hardwire the leads directly to the inverter? Unscrewing that camp also loosens the board inside the inverter holding the wires inside.
I'm sorry it is taking me so long to get back to you. What sized Inverter did you buy and is it a Renogy? Here's a link to the one I have and it is made to be hard wired or plugged into 110 volt outlets. Does your look like this? www.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter/
www.renogy.com/content/RNG-INVT-2000-12V-P2/INVT-P2-Manual.pdf
If you look at page 6 in this pdf and look at #1 this is what I have and all I did was remove the two screws for 110 volts (hardwire) and the cover, put the wires on and then put the cover back on after attaching the wires. Is your different?
@@thetraveltrailerguy take a look at my shots, notice when I removed the cover with the warning, it made the connections loose so when I wanted to screw down the lines, it got pushed into the inverter. I tried to pop the cover off those screws (keeping the screws screwed down) they wouldn't budge. Yeah using same inverter as you.
imgur.com/a/xwFyJKo
@@averagerider92 Oh wow thank you for sending me pictures. This should not have happened when you removed the screws holding the cover down. I would recommend you send these pictures to Renogy and right after you send them give them a call and let them know you just sent pictures in a email (put your name in the subject line so they cam find it) They will advise you on what to do and possibly send you a new one in exchange. I've found them to be very helpful. Please let me know how this works out I would appreciate it. Mike
Just buy the 2000 watt inverter\charger from Renogy and be done with it.. As that transfer switch you used cost $160.00 US.. Then the Inverter is $280.00 US... That is $440.00 US... The Renogy all in one unit is only $380.00.....Plus it can charge12 volt batteries up to 75 amps when plugged into shore power..
Is this the inverter/charger you are talking about? www.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger-w-lcd-display/
@@thetraveltrailerguy Yes.. Just wait for it to go back on sale..I seen it run around $400.00 US 2-3 times a year...
@@WizzRacing Nice :) this unit you are talking about is a inverter/charger only. It is not capable of being a automatic transfer switch which would need to be purchased separately (last time I checked Renogy does not sell Automatic Transfer Switches but Go Power does)
@@thetraveltrailerguy The inverter in the link you posted has a builtin transfer switch of 10ms. Plus 75 amp charger
You can chose Shore Power as Primary or Battery Primary. When I unplug my shore power. The inverter automatically switches to battery power..You can make it the other way around if you want too.
It's why it cost more..But it serves 3 functions in one unit.
You add in the 50 amp DC-DC MPPT controller. You can charge it off Solar, Alternator and Shore Power. Which gives you 3 ways to keep your batteries charged..
It's the cheapest most efficient use of space for an RV or Van..
@@WizzRacing ua-cam.com/video/Pv4G5TZSe3M/v-deo.html thank you now I understand, this is pretty cool. So did you wire this to all your AC outlets or did you wire it like they did in the video I just shared with you?
With my Automatic Transfer Switch set up I wired through my electrical panel so when on shore power all my power travels to my AC panel and when I disconnect shore power my Automatic Transfer Switch switches to my 2000 watt inverter to power all my outlets to run everything (I do not run my air conditioner since it would draw to much power). I like this set up because when using the inverter power I can use any outlet I want including our microwave. Thanks for sharing
Couple questions for ya!
1) shouldn't the fuse for the converter be sized for the converter's amps? For example a 45 amp Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger, wouldn't you want a ~50 amp fuse? Wouldn't a 15 amp fuse just keep blowing?
2) I heard that the ground bar for the transfer switch was grounded via the incoming shore power line, why did you also add the green chassis ground?
Thanks!
Great questions. I installed the 15 amp fuse since it replaced the 15 amp circuit breaker that now goes through the Go Power Transfer Switch. I'm not sure what other converters draw but it makes sense to me if like you mentioned above you have one that draws 45 amps you would use a 45 amp fuse and if not 45 amp fuse is available you use a 50 amp fuse (I would contact Progressive Dynamics to make sure).
Regarding the grounding, I followed the Go Power Automatic Transfer Switch directions regarding grounding, I called them to confirm before doing this. I agree with you but wanted to make sure I installed it correctly.
I hope this helps answer your questions, are you doing a new install? If so what are you installing or planning to install?
Our trailer is wired up for 30 amp shore power and I'm not sure what your trailer is? 30 amp or 50 amp. A 45 amp converter probably would not work in my trailer since its only a 30 amp service panel.
Thanks for watching,
Mike
@@thetraveltrailerguy ohhh ya I forgot you mentioned the fuse was to match the breaker. Mine is also on a 15 amp breaker.
I'm planning to install the exact same transfer switch onto my class B (also 30 amp shore power). I guess that makes sense that it wouldn't actually be able to draw more than 30 amps. The original converter was a Magnetek 6345 that I recently upgraded, but that was also 45 amps from the factory.
It won't be hard for me to also do that same grounding wire, I'll have to read the instructions again beforehand :)
Thanks again,
Joe
P.S I'll probably be trying to make a video of the install over on my van channel "rent free van plan"
ua-cam.com/video/mMN8uUbOoSA/v-deo.html
@@MinimalistFitness Awesome you will like the set up. I'll check out your channel and watch for the video
@@MinimalistFitness Solar set up - ua-cam.com/video/j4a9MkLRJN4/v-deo.html
Battery set up - ua-cam.com/video/1vm4w3BMq4I/v-deo.html
A 45amp 12v charger would use 530w (45x12) so it would only use 4.5amps of 120v power so a 15amp fuse is way more than needed...
I have my lithium batteries located in the front pass through to get weight off of the tongue of my trailer and to provide a secure location. I plan on putting my Progressive Dynamics charger/converter there with the batteries to keep heavy DC runs short. The AC/DC panel is in the back of the trailer and will run AC output from the inverter back through 10/2 wire to the transfer switch as you did and power charger as you have through a separate 15 amp fuse in the transfer switch forward to the batteries also using a 10/2 circuit. DC power from the batteries will go to the panel through the existing wiring and disconnect switch. My question concerns the DC side of the wiring. With the charger/converter moved up front and the AC/DC panel in the back am I okay wiring as I have described above or am I missing something?
Yes this will work, I like your thinking. Here's another video to watch that may help you - ua-cam.com/video/KuIXIJDZ7h8/v-deo.html