Go Power has fantastic technical support folks. I recently purchased the larger IC-3000 which has 50amp passthrough. I ended up pulling it out because it has some confirmed issues that were misleading in the marketing presentation from Go Power and was never clarified in their manuals and video's. The most important issues is these units have the ability to set the max shore power setting. This as documented should only allow that maximum number of amps from being used by the IC-2000 or in the IC-3000 you have to divide that number in 1/2 (50amp service is two legs at 50amp, 100amp total).The problem is if you use this unit or the IC-3000 AC-IN2 is never calculated. So you put the unit at 15amp to use a plug at your home, as long as the usage is from AC-IN1 side the unit will limit current. If it is on AC-IN2 then the current is not limited. This means you could blow a fuse or cause a fire because the current is no longer limited as suggested. In working with Go Power support they also said that the unit could pull 2/3amps more then the maximum power setting because of the charger being before the output. The overall deciding factor for us removing was the unit did not work in power share mode properly with my Yamaha EF2000iSv2. When it was running in smart throttle mode, the generator would ramp up but with sustained loads sometimes the IC-3000 would have a relay that would make a loud click and disconnect all AC shore power. You would be running 100% off the inverter which depending on your batteries does not last long. When this happens you have to cold boot the system by removing all AC and DC power and then start the invert back up again. Couple of middle of the nights of this and I had enough. Through all of this I will say again the support folks were awesome with both calls and emails to work though issues. Unfortunately they even seemed to not be aware of many of these gotchas. I am pulling for Go Power to continue refining this product.
Excellent video. I am so glad I found it. Sure will make running off batteries easier in my RV. Way better than buying all the other components and sorting through the wiring, finding room, mounting, etc, etc. Thanks so much.
Great Video!!! I'm a touch frustrated because I need a 24v inverter/charger!!! I would LOVE to piggyback Go Power's great build quality and reputation for mine. I really like the transfer switch being included- one and done install! Thanks again for a well presented review of a great product.
Something you didn't cover with that inverter is the load assist. But load assist only works on L1 input. It's nice that the inverter will do that so you can run a smaller generator and the inverter will help assist in starting up an AC unit without putting a large strain on the generator or if you're somewhere camping and you have only a 20 or 30 amp service.
Great video sir. I'm doing this install on my 2019 Montana 5th wheel. Nice they now have inverters that do it all. Makes for a lot less electrical components and wiring. Do you have a photo or diagram of hooking to the 50amp shore power coming in? Did you access it at the panel or prior to the panel for both AC in and out?
It is a straight forward install. Take a picture of your existing shore power line at your breaker box...then remove those 4 wires (most likley Red/Black/White/Copper. Then install that as the power in on GoPower. Next, using new cable, wire from GoPower back to the same location on your breaker box.
I hope you are protecting the inverter from a potential (water leak from your water heater), installing any electrical devices like that is just asking for trouble. Build some water proof barrier under and on the side of the inverter. Just my few cents. Other that that great video and yes, GoPower is a great manufacturer and higly recommended.
That was a temp location for testing. It had been moved to the front storage compartment in our 5th wheel. If you watch my video on Battle Born Batteries, you see the final location.
Sure, you could use this for 30 amp service. You would only have 1 "hot" line coming in vs the 2 "hot" lines you saw me wire up in the video. Then if you get a new RV in the future that is 50 amp, you can add this to the new RV. 😎
Great video except one thing was overlooked. You showed in the beginning that this replaces the Auto Transfer Switch but you only showed one AC line going into the inverter charger. There are normally 2 AC lines (1 from shore power and 1 from generator) which go to the Auto Transfer Switch. Could you show how you handles that scenario?
We don't have an onboard generator, so I didn't show that configuration. However, it is very simple. You would use a standard transfer switch to combine shore and generator. The output of that transfer switch would be the incoming line to the IC2000/3000. The IC2000/3000 would then transfer between incoming power (Gen or Shore) and using your battery bank to invert power when boondocking.
Great video. I’m a bit confused you stated that this will replace a transfer switch. I have ordered the go power elite and I have on board generator. I’m not sure why I would need to add a transfer switch if it is already built in? Thank you
@@portmoody109 If you have an existing built in Gen, then the shore power and your Gen go through a transfer switch. The output of that TS, would then come into the IC2000 (or IC3000) and then the IC2000 would become a transfer switch for power in (from existing TS) and battery bank. We don't have a built in Gen, so I don't show that set up in this video.
@@tannerjim thank you for the response. It was my mistake saying my rv came with a generator. It will be installed at the dealer next week when we pick it up for the first time. I will definitely ask them to install a Transfer switch if it doesn’t come with the propane generator.
i get that your consolidating 3 parts in 1,but if 1 of those fail you have lost all 3?and just me i believe i would put some type of shield between it and the water heater or even a better non-wet location
I wish UA-cam allowed updating videos... You are 100% correct, that location was simply to install and test the IC2000. That was not the permanent home. It is safe (and dry) up front in the 5th wheel storage unit. If you jump to 4:14 mark in this video link, you will see it is not attached to the back wall. ua-cam.com/video/08u7VRPeJD4/v-deo.html
They should also include a grid tie inverter once the batteries are charged, to continue to pump those solar panels to the max for those who are tied in to the shore power. Having the RV sending power back into the grid would be very nice. It would be nice also if they would put in Bluetooth or wifi link to your smart phone or PDA so you can get details easier, logs to send to go power and better configuration. The IC series II Inverter Charger Remote and PWM Solar Controller are cute, but a PDA with Bluetooth technology would be a far superior product. I know their support people would rather have something like that, then trust people to setup and convey what they see, what they interpret they want, and what they really want. Hell, the loss w/ RMA exchanges which were not needed, would more then repay the development costs.
I am still trying to figure out what all the wires are because I want to put one of these in with solar on top. Do you have a video how to identify the AC in and Out?
My RV has Shore power and a Generator. Is a second transfer switch needed between the Shore power and Generator power in and then take power from that second Transfer switch out to the Shore power in on the Inverter?
You will need a typical transfer switch to pair your Generator and Shore Power. The OUTPUT from that transfer switch, will be routed into the IC-2000's "AC In" port. Then attach battery to IC-2000 as normal. The output from the IC-2000 will be attached to your distribution panel and all devices will operate. AC will work when you're on Shore Power or Generator power, but the IC-2000 will not run your AC on battery power alone.
Jim great vid, I’m trying to figure out how you didn’t need a sub panel to get all the outlets working? Your inverter ac in is connected to leads from 50 amp power plug at the breaker box, and your out goes to the breakers where the original 50 amp power plug leads were connected on the breakers? So I have that right? Option 2 in the manual.... that seems too easy
Yes, I think you have it . You can email me at rvwiththetanners@gmail.com and I will email you the diagram....it will help illustrate the process. :) Oh...thanks for subscribing.
wondering about the input cable. In the manual it comes in from a "main Panel" can you com direct from a shore power in connection with out a "main panel and switch"?
I've attached a link that will open my power distribution diagram. Hopefully that will help you understand....I'm the visual type, so this diagram was helpful in my planning of the power layout. Short summary....Shore Power Line to will attach the input to IC-2000. Output from IC-2000 will go to your distribution panel. drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg
Let me try to explain how I have it. Batteries are wired to IC2000....then IC-2000 is wired (the "output" line) directly to my distribution panel in our RV, providing AC power on L1 and L2. For DC power, the IC2000 will charge the batteries, but the DC power flows through the normal busbar and is distributed to the RV via factory setup. Pictures always help. Here is a link to my setup. Let me know if you still have questions. drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg
You will have some sort of 12v distribution. Follow the POS cable off your battery. I will come to a 12v breaker and then somehow it will be distributed through your RV. If you install the IC-2000 (or even IC-3000 now :) ) you won't have to do anything different for your 12v items to work. That remains the same. Other than disconnecting your existing "converter", as the IC2000 will be doing the 12v charging for you....at a much better level.
Hi Jim, so once you installed this you didn't have to rewire anything to be able to use the receptacles, you just make sure you don't run anything that needs a high load, like AC, and if you did need AC you'd use shore power or your gen, is that correct? Thx
Patrick...Correct, there is no additional wiring for all the outlets to work. I've included a link to my wiring diagram, that will show you how this is integrated into our RV's electrical system. For the AC to run, you CAN use the IC-2000 and a small generator (we have Yamaha EF2000). While we have not tried this, the folks at GoPower assure me it will work. Just note, that doing this will run down batteries even with the generator running at the same time. BTW..this will power everything in our Bighorn, except the AC units. As stated above, I'd need our Yamaha generator to get AC unit working. Link to our wiring setup -- drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg/view Hope this helps :) Jim
Hi thanks for the video. Is it best to put this in place of an existing travel trailer converter, or will the wiring to the battery be too small? Or place the IC2000 closer to the batteries with wiring going to trailer panel?
The IC-2000 will replace your existing converter. GoPower recommends having this device within a TOTAL of 10 feet of wiring (meaning combining both POS and NEG cables). Use 6AWG cabling. Here is a link to my wiring diagram, which should give you a better understanding of how to layout your system. Link to our wiring setup -- drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg/view
Hi. Thanks for the video. Do the batteries hook directly to the unit? The instruction manual seems to show them going through the DC panel first. Thanks again
Yes... Directly to the batteries. I'm away from my computer, so I can't link my diagram. But if you scroll down in the comments you should see a link for my wiring setup.
+RV With The Tanners . thank you so much. my last inverter/charger had a 3 prong plug for a nearby outlet. can I wire a plug to my new unit to make life easier? thank you
From this device there is no built in plug to use. It is creating 50 amps, do you'd need to wired a 50 amp plug if you didn't want to take the output from the IC-2000, directly to your RV's distribution panel.
+RV With The Tanners . thanks again. my old airstream has 2 sets of battery cables that go directly into the 12v distribution panel. if I attach my batteries directly to the ic 2000 I won't get any power to my 12v appliances.
The IC2000 has a POS and NEG connection to the battery...those cables act to provide DC to the IC2000 to create 110v (via Ic2000's Inverter) and then if you are connected to shore power, the same cables will provide a charge to your batteries (via the IC2000's Converter). Normally 12v power to sent to the RV off the battery(s) via a "busbar" and through some breakers (20-30amp). The "distribution panel" is for 110v power. Now, your RV might have some sort of combo unit. I don't have an Airstream, so I can't guide you to the exact setup. I would highly recommend you call GoPower and talk with their Tech Support. I called them about 3 times to ask questions and I always got right through to a live person. I give their Tech support a 10 out of 10!!!
Yes, but please note, our 15k AC unit (we have 2 of them) will draw ~160amps to operate. So, "yes" you can run an AC with it, but you'll need a LARGE battery bank run it for a lenght of time.
Shore line power comes into IC2000 (upper left as you look at back of IC2000). Battery connection on right side (pos & neg). Output is wired from IC2000, to distribution panel. I used this as a 50 amp device, so I have 6 gauge wire, with 4 wires.. Leg 1 and Leg 2 are "hot" then connect white wire (neutral) and green wire to ground. That is it. Now you can use either shore power or 12v power to provide 110v power to RV. For you, you will only connect one hot wire (Leg 1)....as you don't have a 2nd "Leg" of power.
See page 30 of the IC2000, for a diagram of how to wire the IC2000 with a RV that uses 30 amp service. gpelectric.com/files/gpelectric/documents/PDF/Manual_GP-IC2000.pdf
@@tannerjim For my own understanding, and possible confusion lol you said "then connect green wire (neutral) and white wire to ground." I've always thought green was ground and white neutral or am I missing something?
@@jdlaw4216 You're right...I wrote it wrong in the comment above (now fixed). However, the video had it shown and I said it correctly. Thanks for pointing that out.
I like this... however, if you go through the trouble making a box this big, why not 3000 watts? They have other 3000/6000 products. Here's the big bummer about this box...surge is 3400 watts for ONLY 5 SECONDS! So did you Chuck your factory converter/charger?
Are you still using this setup? Is there something newer that you’d recommend now? Lastly, is this something that a non-electrical person could install?
Where is your power coming from ? Batteries? This can support up to 50amps. How are you planning to connect this? Typically you would go from this to a distribution panel, which is then used to power outlets at either 15-20 amp. If you simply want to connect to a battery and have 110v power (for laptop, cell phone, lights) then look at the device I've linked at the end of this reply. It is an "inverter", which provides two (2) 110v plugs via a 12v battery - amzn.to/2FxN7q3
Good video. I have a class A w 50 amp service. I just bought the ic3000 and wanted your opinion. I plan on using the 3000 to power everything - only when needed. I understand electrical. My coach only has a single elec panel. No sub panel. Both legs split in the panel and all is good. Plan is to wire ic3000 from existing transfer switch (gen/shore). From ic3000 to the main panel using both legs. (Obviously unplugging existing converters). I’ve thought it. Drawn it up and seems fine. But there are some that suggest whole house is not recommended. We are always cautious with our boondocking power. Only on when needed. I don’t plan on running ac with it. That’s what the gen is for. What’s your take on whole house vs installing a sub panel from inverter? The ic3000 seems more than capable. Plus I’m thinking older inverters didn’t have the capability to use two legs. I think it’s fine.
We have everything powered from our IC2000. We both know not to fire up the AC unit, which is the only thing that the IC2000 can't handle. Here is a link to my wiring layout. Yours will be the same, except your "input" will be from the "output" of your existing transfer switch (for Gen and 50 amp leg) drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg Feel free to subscribe to our Channel, we have some more Go Power stuff coming soon. :)
RV With The Tanners That’s what I thought. I’ve also got a renogy solar setup (albeit only 200w/48v) with an mppt controller. I’m leaving all the old wiring and converters (2x) in case the ic3000 dies, I can use them.
ok, so just so I'm reading you right, the wires going to the main panel from transfer switch will be hooked up to the inverter and then the other side of inverter goes to panel. am I right
Never....we just got back from 12 days of Boondocking and using the IC2000 everyday (oh...it was 96+ for about 5 straight days) and it performed flawlessly.
RV With The Tanners thanks for the reply, I have it mounted in a pretty tight compartment (it's pretty small cubby inside a lance truck camper), I'm thinking in going to have to remount it's somewhere else.
Good video Do you know what the transfer switch criteria is? When plugged into shore power does it automatically transfer or is there a way to set a threshold to run off battery as long as possible and then fail over (based on battery voltage or depletion threshold)? My objective is to run off solar as long as possible and then switch to shore power automatically. Thanks
That is a great question, that I don't have the answer to. I recommend calling GoPower Support...they are the BEST! Odds are great that you will get a human answering the phone with in the first 1-2 rings!!!
I would think so, the manual (see link below) does not call them out, but has a "custom" field. To be 100% sure, I would call Go Power Tech Support....they are very easy to work with. gpelectric.com/files/gpelectric/documents/PDF/Manual_GP-IC2000.pdf
I have my MPPT controller attached directly to the battery, with a cutoff switch installed. I've attached a link that will open my power distribution diagram. Hopefully that will help you understand....I'm the visual type, so this diagram was helpful in my planning of the power layout. drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg
Yes and No. If you have a built in generator, you will still need a transfer switch BEFORE this device. If you don't have a built in generator, this device will be your transfer switch, between Shore AC power and the AC power it creates.
@@tannerjim 10-4 In the video I recognized that I had the same converter and transfer switch as you did. I want to get rid of my two 75AH flooded batteries and get two lithium batteries. No solar. I’m thinking the original charger should do the trick. The wife and I cannot come to an agreement on a larger system. I’ll have to fight that battle again another day
@@donl7114 Get your converter model number and call Battle Born. Some newer converters have a Lithium profile, if yours doesn't you will need to replace it to fully charge Lithium. Moving to 2x 100Ah Lithium's will almost triple your available amps hours, as you can use 100% of Lithium amp hours but only use 50% of Flooded amp hours. So, even with 2x75Ah flooded, you only had 75 total amp hours available. Here is a link to my 6x Battle Born Lithium install.ua-cam.com/video/08u7VRPeJD4/v-deo.html
Interesting enough, I am now planning to install 6 Battle Born Lithium batteries. After talking with both Go Power and Battle Born, it is now ok to use the IC-2000 to charge these lithium batteries, with the understanding you configure the IC-2000 to charge at proper rates. Battle Born recommends: • Bulk/Absorption voltage between 14.2 - 14.6 volts. • Float - not needed, but if device can’t disable float, have the float value at 13.6 volts • Equalization - Not recommended. I will be using the AGM mode (all dip switches “off”) and AGM doesn’t use an “Equalization” mode….only Flooded batteries use equalization mode.
My 6 Battle Born batteries are installed and I used the "custom" setting on the IC2000. Things are looking great. Now I just have to compile it all into a new video (or 2)
If you have a factory generator, that most likely goes to a transfer switch, which combines your shore power plug. Take the output of that transfer switch as the "input" to the IC2000/IC3000. Wire batteries as normal.
I have a 2000 Damon Ultrasport DP with 50 amp service, I have an existing transfer switch for shore power and generator power. What do I need to run both into inverter.
The output from your current transfer switch is feeding your RV's circuit circuit breaker...right? if so, you would route that into the IC2000 (or IC3000) as well as the 12v input from your batteries. The output of the IC2000, would then simply go back to to the circuit breaker.
Jim, maybe you can give me some advise with this question: if I have a 12vdc refrigerator wired to the battery, how can I manage an alarm or auto dissconect before the fridge drains completely the battery when I'm sleeping or out the RV?... how it's usually done? thanks in advance
Are you sure your refrigerator is 12v only? I've seen these before (known at 3-way refrigerator) but they are fairly outdated. Normally, you would have a 2-way (gas or electric) or "residential" (electric only). Please confirm what you have. (model number?) We can discuss an alarm, once I fully understand your refrigerator setup. :) When you say "out of the rv"...are you talking about while RV is in storage or perhaps you're just out for a hike?
tks Jim, I'm on the project definition phase, figuring out where all the pieces go... yes I understand there are some 12v/110/LP refrigerators, but if I'm boodnocking I've learn that is better to run it on 12vdc (let's say I don't like LP and it's hazard implications) instead of the inverter due to eficency loss and shorting the inverter's life yes, when I refer to out the van I mean outside the van (sorry about my english LOL)
We boondock a LOT...and I wouldn't be without a 12/Propane refrigerator. It use hardly any 12v power and very little propane. I don't know your situation, but if at all possible, go with a 2 way refrigerator (12/propane and electric). You will need a min of 2..possibly 4 deep cycle batteries to get a 12v only refrigerator working well for you. LOL...I've been fortunate to travel all over the world for my job....your English is fine! :) You're also going to need some efficient solar panels to replenish your batteries during the day. Have you figured out what you'll be doing there?
tks, the goal is to have a 3500 Ram promaster fixed with 300 watts solar and with a couple of 6 volts batteries with let's say 200 ah @12v pair with a 2000w pure sine inverter.... made a list of the appliances and the running time needed and my guess is that will be enough but the refrigerator.... that's the issue, I'm lost in that one... too much drain... by the way, I'm talking about a small one, don't know, maybe 3 cu ft so, one, don't know what kind of refrigerator is better and Two if I run it on 12vdc how to avoid damaging the fride or hurting the batteries if they get totally empty.... that was why I asked about an alarm or auto disconnect the battery...
There are a lot of devices that will cutoff the battery if it hits a certain level. Check this one on Amazon - amzn.to/2yIJlYb Sound like you'll be fine for power most of the year...might be in issue in the winter months getting enough solar. Do you have ability to angle the panels to get optimum power in Winter?
If shore AC is wired directly into the inverter (then out to distro panel) and the inverter is switching between solar battery bank and shore power, how is a generator incorporated? In order to switch between 3 AC sources (shore AC / genset / inverter AC output) I think it could be wired as such: Generator output to the inverter AC input so it is switching between genset and solar battery bank and then the inverter's AC output would route to an external ATS that would switch between inverter AC and shore power AC. So the inverter ATS switches between genset / solar and the second ATS switches between inverter AC / shore AC. So for 3-source systems, you would still need an external ATS in addition to the internal inverter ATS.
I took original shore power connection to distribution panel and that is now the "in" on the IC2000. Then I ran a new connection from "out" of IC2000 back to distribution panel
@@tannerjim ok thanks that’s what I did , when I run everything like normal the inverter shuts off I think because the converter try’s to charge also. So if I shut off converter at breaker panel it runs smooth do you have to did that
@@tannerjim my inverter keeps tripping or shutting down when I turn anything on do you have any ideas what to check? I mainly use for fridge but when I try tv or radio or an AC unit it shuts all power off
do you have a factory generator? If so, you'll want to keep factory TS and then have that power sent to IC2000 (or IC3000). You simply unplug your existing converter. The wiring from IC2000 will send 12v to your RV and Batteries.
Jim, great video. I am in the process of ordering a new fifth wheel with a generator and solar panel. We plan to do a fair amount of boondocking and I wanted to minimize the amount of run time on the generator, so I was looking for an inverter we could use to power the RV on 120 v, without having to do a lot of the secondary panel and transfer switching I was reading about on the web. One question, after looking at your wiring diagram, it looks like to me you disconnected power to the original battery charger that came with your RV? The IC2000 does all of your battery charging, besides your truck. Is that correct? I think this is the setup I was looking for, without all the manual switching. Thanks for your time on the video.
Vic....Yes, the IC-2000 (they now offer an IC-3000) also charges your battery. You can configure all the settings via the remote panel. I have it set to max of 80 amps....but I doubt my batteries ever get low enough to see that level of charge, as they are always being charged via our 544w of solar. Nice thing is you can also turn off the charger via the remote display. If you use my link, I get a fee from Amazon, but it doesn't cost you anything...helps offset my costs for gear and web host. Hope this helps... Jim
Was fairly straight forward. Ran the line from the output of the IC2000, directly to our RV's distribution panel. Connected all 4 wires and was done. Can you hear the IC2000 come on when you turn on the remote? Is the remote coming on? What is your battery level? There are 2 reset buttons on the side...any chance those are not on?
RV With The Tanners yes the remote and the ic has a green light, We ran 10/3 from in inverter to shore power cord then from the panel to the out inverter. Ugg, what is with the dip switch not in the manual
Sure...hope the video helped. If you use my link, I get a commission (doesn't cost you a penny more) which help pay for Web Hosting, Domain Name, products to review...etc. :) With 21 followers, I am a LONG LONG LONG way from making $$ from UA-cam. Hahahahaha
This is not on the same circuit as our solar. Solar comes from roof to MPPT controller to battery bank. That circuit is complete. The IC-2000, pulls power from battery (through 400amp fuse) to IC-2000. The other power input to the IC-2000 is the Shore power to the RV. That goes through an EMS first...then to IC-2000.....then to distribution panel. Did this answer your question?
@@tannerjim Thanks for your insight on this unit, but I'm wondering where then would I make use of my 200W solar panels while using the ic2000? Does the ic2000 address the ultimate dry camping answer, or is it strictly for shore power converted to DC power?
@@martran56 IC2000/IC3000 is a converter (shore power to DC for RV's 12v device & charge battery bank) and and Inverter (AC power from battery bank). Solar would charge battery bank...then battery bank feeds 12v to this device...creating AC for the RV.
Unfortunately, not. You'll need a normal transfer switch if you want to wiring in a generator. Here is a link to another video I created, showing you how to wire a transfer switch. ua-cam.com/video/zTjOECEhYDM/v-deo.html The transfer switch inside this device is transferring between "shore power" and 12v power. It works GREAT for that situation, which is perfect for our RV, as we don't have a dedicated generator. We only carry a small/portable Yamaha generator.
how does that work while boondocking and you want your AC on as well? You turn you your generator for Air Cond and the rest of the AC power is run through the inverter at the same time?
For the AC to run, you CAN use the IC-2000 and a small generator (we have Yamaha EF2000). While we have not tried this, the folks at GoPower assure me it will work. Just note, that doing this will run down batteries even with the generator running at the same time. We still work full time jobs, so our camping is still limited to local trips. In Oregon, we typically don't need to run our AC unit, as temps don't get too hot where we camp.
Considering it is a 2000w Pure Sine Wave inverter, a 100 amp converter and a transfer switch, I think it is reasonably priced. Can you provide another solution that provide 50 amps per leg, at a better price?
Go Power has fantastic technical support folks. I recently purchased the larger IC-3000 which has 50amp passthrough. I ended up pulling it out because it has some confirmed issues that were misleading in the marketing presentation from Go Power and was never clarified in their manuals and video's.
The most important issues is these units have the ability to set the max shore power setting. This as documented should only allow that maximum number of amps from being used by the IC-2000 or in the IC-3000 you have to divide that number in 1/2 (50amp service is two legs at 50amp, 100amp total).The problem is if you use this unit or the IC-3000 AC-IN2 is never calculated. So you put the unit at 15amp to use a plug at your home, as long as the usage is from AC-IN1 side the unit will limit current. If it is on AC-IN2 then the current is not limited. This means you could blow a fuse or cause a fire because the current is no longer limited as suggested. In working with Go Power support they also said that the unit could pull 2/3amps more then the maximum power setting because of the charger being before the output.
The overall deciding factor for us removing was the unit did not work in power share mode properly with my Yamaha EF2000iSv2. When it was running in smart throttle mode, the generator would ramp up but with sustained loads sometimes the IC-3000 would have a relay that would make a loud click and disconnect all AC shore power. You would be running 100% off the inverter which depending on your batteries does not last long. When this happens you have to cold boot the system by removing all AC and DC power and then start the invert back up again. Couple of middle of the nights of this and I had enough.
Through all of this I will say again the support folks were awesome with both calls and emails to work though issues. Unfortunately they even seemed to not be aware of many of these gotchas. I am pulling for Go Power to continue refining this product.
Excellent video. I am so glad I found it. Sure will make running off batteries easier in my RV. Way better than buying all the other components and sorting through the wiring, finding room, mounting, etc, etc. Thanks so much.
Great Video!!! I'm a touch frustrated because I need a 24v inverter/charger!!! I would LOVE to piggyback Go Power's great build quality and reputation for mine. I really like the transfer switch being included- one and done install! Thanks again for a well presented review of a great product.
Thanks for your help, We’ve done what you said. I will call Go Power for further help.
I know we are missing something. Thanks again.
I wish it had a generator input. I’d need an external ATS to use this - but it is awesome.
Something you didn't cover with that inverter is the load assist. But load assist only works on L1 input. It's nice that the inverter will do that so you can run a smaller generator and the inverter will help assist in starting up an AC unit without putting a large strain on the generator or if you're somewhere camping and you have only a 20 or 30 amp service.
Great info. I wish I had this knowledge a few years ago before settling up my RV
Fantastic video and explanation.....thank you for doing this
Great video sir. I'm doing this install on my 2019 Montana 5th wheel. Nice they now have inverters that do it all. Makes for a lot less electrical components and wiring. Do you have a photo or diagram of hooking to the 50amp shore power coming in? Did you access it at the panel or prior to the panel for both AC in and out?
It is a straight forward install. Take a picture of your existing shore power line at your breaker box...then remove those 4 wires (most likley Red/Black/White/Copper. Then install that as the power in on GoPower. Next, using new cable, wire from GoPower back to the same location on your breaker box.
Great Review, thanks!
Greetz frum Austalia.
Mick
I hope you are protecting the inverter from a potential (water leak from your water heater), installing any electrical devices like that is just asking for trouble. Build some water proof barrier under and on the side of the inverter. Just my few cents. Other that that great video and yes, GoPower is a great manufacturer and higly recommended.
That was a temp location for testing. It had been moved to the front storage compartment in our 5th wheel. If you watch my video on Battle Born Batteries, you see the final location.
Fair enough, good job.
I see in the video you have 50amp service for your rv. I have 30amp 120volt. Will this work for that or do you have something else to recommend?
Sure, you could use this for 30 amp service. You would only have 1 "hot" line coming in vs the 2 "hot" lines you saw me wire up in the video. Then if you get a new RV in the future that is 50 amp, you can add this to the new RV. 😎
Great video except one thing was overlooked. You showed in the beginning that this replaces the Auto Transfer Switch but you only showed one AC line going into the inverter charger. There are normally 2 AC lines (1 from shore power and 1 from generator) which go to the Auto Transfer Switch. Could you show how you handles that scenario?
We don't have an onboard generator, so I didn't show that configuration. However, it is very simple. You would use a standard transfer switch to combine shore and generator. The output of that transfer switch would be the incoming line to the IC2000/3000. The IC2000/3000 would then transfer between incoming power (Gen or Shore) and using your battery bank to invert power when boondocking.
Great video. I’m a bit confused you stated that this will replace a transfer switch. I have ordered the go power elite and I have on board generator. I’m not sure why I would need to add a transfer switch if it is already built in? Thank you
@@portmoody109 If you have an existing built in Gen, then the shore power and your Gen go through a transfer switch. The output of that TS, would then come into the IC2000 (or IC3000) and then the IC2000 would become a transfer switch for power in (from existing TS) and battery bank. We don't have a built in Gen, so I don't show that set up in this video.
@@tannerjim thank you for the response. It was my mistake saying my rv came with a generator. It will be installed at the dealer next week when we pick it up for the first time. I will definitely ask them to install a Transfer switch if it doesn’t come with the propane generator.
@@portmoody109 LOL...if they install a Gen, there is no option...they will install an TS. Enjoy the new generator. :)
i get that your consolidating 3 parts in 1,but if 1 of those fail you have lost all 3?and just me i believe i would put some type of shield between it and the water heater or even a better non-wet location
I wish UA-cam allowed updating videos... You are 100% correct, that location was simply to install and test the IC2000. That was not the permanent home. It is safe (and dry) up front in the 5th wheel storage unit. If you jump to 4:14 mark in this video link, you will see it is not attached to the back wall. ua-cam.com/video/08u7VRPeJD4/v-deo.html
They should also include a grid tie inverter once the batteries are charged, to continue to pump those solar panels to the max for those who are tied in to the shore power. Having the RV sending power back into the grid would be very nice. It would be nice also if they would put in Bluetooth or wifi link to your smart phone or PDA so you can get details easier, logs to send to go power and better configuration. The IC series II Inverter Charger Remote and PWM Solar Controller are cute, but a PDA with Bluetooth technology would be a far superior product. I know their support people would rather have something like that, then trust people to setup and convey what they see, what they interpret they want, and what they really want. Hell, the loss w/ RMA exchanges which were not needed, would more then repay the development costs.
Yea...adding Bluetooth (like the Victron hardware has) would be a GREAT update/upgrade for these for sure!!
I am still trying to figure out what all the wires are because I want to put one of these in with solar on top. Do you have a video how to identify the AC in and Out?
My RV has Shore power and a Generator. Is a second transfer switch needed between the Shore power and Generator power in and then take power from that second Transfer switch out to the Shore power in on the Inverter?
You will need a typical transfer switch to pair your Generator and Shore Power. The OUTPUT from that transfer switch, will be routed into the IC-2000's "AC In" port. Then attach battery to IC-2000 as normal. The output from the IC-2000 will be attached to your distribution panel and all devices will operate. AC will work when you're on Shore Power or Generator power, but the IC-2000 will not run your AC on battery power alone.
Jim great vid, I’m trying to figure out how you didn’t need a sub panel to get all the outlets working? Your inverter ac in is connected to leads from 50 amp power plug at the breaker box, and your out goes to the breakers where the original 50 amp power plug leads were connected on the breakers? So I have that right? Option 2 in the manual.... that seems too easy
Yes, I think you have it . You can email me at rvwiththetanners@gmail.com and I will email you the diagram....it will help illustrate the process. :) Oh...thanks for subscribing.
Hey Jim great video!
Nice
wondering about the input cable. In the manual it comes in from a "main Panel" can you com direct from a shore power in connection with out a "main panel and switch"?
I've attached a link that will open my power distribution diagram. Hopefully that will help you understand....I'm the visual type, so this diagram was helpful in my planning of the power layout.
Short summary....Shore Power Line to will attach the input to IC-2000. Output from IC-2000 will go to your distribution panel.
drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg
Link no workie.
Did you wire from the ic2000 lugs to the fuse panel in your trailer, or from the battery bank to the fuse panel for your DC connection?
Let me try to explain how I have it. Batteries are wired to IC2000....then IC-2000 is wired (the "output" line) directly to my distribution panel in our RV, providing AC power on L1 and L2.
For DC power, the IC2000 will charge the batteries, but the DC power flows through the normal busbar and is distributed to the RV via factory setup.
Pictures always help. Here is a link to my setup. Let me know if you still have questions.
drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg
I just dont have a bus bar...i should be able to just take battery positive to my fuse panel through whats factory wired already.
You will have some sort of 12v distribution. Follow the POS cable off your battery. I will come to a 12v breaker and then somehow it will be distributed through your RV.
If you install the IC-2000 (or even IC-3000 now :) ) you won't have to do anything different for your 12v items to work. That remains the same. Other than disconnecting your existing "converter", as the IC2000 will be doing the 12v charging for you....at a much better level.
How to hookup to my Circuit Board panel in the Trailer
Hi Jim, so once you installed this you didn't have to rewire anything to be able to use the receptacles, you just make sure you don't run anything that needs a high load, like AC, and if you did need AC you'd use shore power or your gen, is that correct? Thx
Patrick...Correct, there is no additional wiring for all the outlets to work. I've included a link to my wiring diagram, that will show you how this is integrated into our RV's electrical system. For the AC to run, you CAN use the IC-2000 and a small generator (we have Yamaha EF2000). While we have not tried this, the folks at GoPower assure me it will work. Just note, that doing this will run down batteries even with the generator running at the same time.
BTW..this will power everything in our Bighorn, except the AC units. As stated above, I'd need our Yamaha generator to get AC unit working.
Link to our wiring setup -- drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg/view
Hope this helps :)
Jim
Thanks!
Hi thanks for the video. Is it best to put this in place of an existing travel trailer converter, or will the wiring to the battery be too small? Or place the IC2000 closer to the batteries with wiring going to trailer panel?
The IC-2000 will replace your existing converter. GoPower recommends having this device within a TOTAL of 10 feet of wiring (meaning combining both POS and NEG cables). Use 6AWG cabling.
Here is a link to my wiring diagram, which should give you a better understanding of how to layout your system.
Link to our wiring setup -- drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg/view
ok thanks
Awesome. As in Canada il find something similar
GoPower is IN Canada. You should have no problems finding it there. :)
I meant your USA link to the wiring
I assume you still have an ATS for the gen/shore power and then it goes to your IC2000?
I don't have an on-board generator, so I don't have a separate ATS. If you do, then yes, you would still need an ATS prior to IC2000/IC3000
Hi. Thanks for the video. Do the batteries hook directly to the unit? The instruction manual seems to show them going through the DC panel first. Thanks again
Yes... Directly to the batteries. I'm away from my computer, so I can't link my diagram. But if you scroll down in the comments you should see a link for my wiring setup.
+RV With The Tanners . thank you so much. my last inverter/charger had a 3 prong plug for a nearby outlet. can I wire a plug to my new unit to make life easier? thank you
From this device there is no built in plug to use. It is creating 50 amps, do you'd need to wired a 50 amp plug if you didn't want to take the output from the IC-2000, directly to your RV's distribution panel.
+RV With The Tanners . thanks again. my old airstream has 2 sets of battery cables that go directly into the 12v distribution panel. if I attach my batteries directly to the ic 2000 I won't get any power to my 12v appliances.
The IC2000 has a POS and NEG connection to the battery...those cables act to provide DC to the IC2000 to create 110v (via Ic2000's Inverter) and then if you are connected to shore power, the same cables will provide a charge to your batteries (via the IC2000's Converter).
Normally 12v power to sent to the RV off the battery(s) via a "busbar" and through some breakers (20-30amp). The "distribution panel" is for 110v power. Now, your RV might have some sort of combo unit. I don't have an Airstream, so I can't guide you to the exact setup.
I would highly recommend you call GoPower and talk with their Tech Support. I called them about 3 times to ask questions and I always got right through to a live person. I give their Tech support a 10 out of 10!!!
Can you run your air conditioning with this device
Yes, but please note, our 15k AC unit (we have 2 of them) will draw ~160amps to operate. So, "yes" you can run an AC with it, but you'll need a LARGE battery bank run it for a lenght of time.
How do you have yours hooked up the the distribution panel?
We have 30 amp service. And I want to use the microwave , and all the outlets.
Shore line power comes into IC2000 (upper left as you look at back of IC2000). Battery connection on right side (pos & neg). Output is wired from IC2000, to distribution panel. I used this as a 50 amp device, so I have 6 gauge wire, with 4 wires.. Leg 1 and Leg 2 are "hot" then connect white wire (neutral) and green wire to ground. That is it. Now you can use either shore power or 12v power to provide 110v power to RV.
For you, you will only connect one hot wire (Leg 1)....as you don't have a 2nd "Leg" of power.
See page 30 of the IC2000, for a diagram of how to wire the IC2000 with a RV that uses 30 amp service.
gpelectric.com/files/gpelectric/documents/PDF/Manual_GP-IC2000.pdf
@@tannerjim For my own understanding, and possible confusion lol you said "then connect green wire (neutral) and white wire to ground." I've always thought green was ground and white neutral or am I missing something?
@@jdlaw4216 You're right...I wrote it wrong in the comment above (now fixed). However, the video had it shown and I said it correctly. Thanks for pointing that out.
I like this... however, if you go through the trouble making a box this big, why not 3000 watts? They have other 3000/6000 products. Here's the big bummer about this box...surge is 3400 watts for ONLY 5 SECONDS! So did you Chuck your factory converter/charger?
When I did this, they only offered the IC2000. The IC3000 came out about 4 months after I was done.
love this vid.. appreciate the effort. I'm sure it serves you well.
Yep...factory converter is now collecting dust in the garage.
Bravo! You wire up a separate 12v fused panel?
@@TheYankmchain Nope...no sub-panel used. Just need to remember to turn on "converter" function of IC2000. Easy. :)
Are you still using this setup? Is there something newer that you’d recommend now? Lastly, is this something that a non-electrical person could install?
Yes, I am still using this setup. I would go with the IC3000 now, as it wasn't available (not on market) when I did this install 4 years ago
Could this be used as a stand alone solar generation power station, instead of being inside an RV
Are you asking if it can be used for something other than an RV? If so...yes. :)
Yes, something like a power supply for lights, cell phones, tablets, or laptops in a campsite where you don't have the luxury of an RV...
Where is your power coming from ? Batteries? This can support up to 50amps. How are you planning to connect this? Typically you would go from this to a distribution panel, which is then used to power outlets at either 15-20 amp. If you simply want to connect to a battery and have 110v power (for laptop, cell phone, lights) then look at the device I've linked at the end of this reply. It is an "inverter", which provides two (2) 110v plugs via a 12v battery - amzn.to/2FxN7q3
Good video. I have a class A w 50 amp service. I just bought the ic3000 and wanted your opinion. I plan on using the 3000 to power everything - only when needed. I understand electrical. My coach only has a single elec panel. No sub panel. Both legs split in the panel and all is good.
Plan is to wire ic3000 from existing transfer switch (gen/shore). From ic3000 to the main panel using both legs. (Obviously unplugging existing converters). I’ve thought it. Drawn it up and seems fine. But there are some that suggest whole house is not recommended.
We are always cautious with our boondocking power. Only on when needed. I don’t plan on running ac with it. That’s what the gen is for.
What’s your take on whole house vs installing a sub panel from inverter? The ic3000 seems more than capable. Plus I’m thinking older inverters didn’t have the capability to use two legs. I think it’s fine.
We have everything powered from our IC2000. We both know not to fire up the AC unit, which is the only thing that the IC2000 can't handle.
Here is a link to my wiring layout. Yours will be the same, except your "input" will be from the "output" of your existing transfer switch (for Gen and 50 amp leg)
drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg
Feel free to subscribe to our Channel, we have some more Go Power stuff coming soon. :)
RV With The Tanners
That’s what I thought. I’ve also got a renogy solar setup (albeit only 200w/48v) with an mppt controller.
I’m leaving all the old wiring and converters (2x) in case the ic3000 dies, I can use them.
Excellent plan...if you ever sell the RV, you can easily remove the IC3000 and put in your next RV.
ok, so just so I'm reading you right, the wires going to the main panel from transfer switch will be hooked up to the inverter and then the other side of inverter goes to panel. am I right
Correct.... If you have any questions, GoPower customer support is the best.
Do you ever have overheating problems with your ic2000?
Never....we just got back from 12 days of Boondocking and using the IC2000 everyday (oh...it was 96+ for about 5 straight days) and it performed flawlessly.
RV With The Tanners thanks for the reply, I have it mounted in a pretty tight compartment (it's pretty small cubby inside a lance truck camper), I'm thinking in going to have to remount it's somewhere else.
Good video Do you know what the transfer switch criteria is? When plugged into shore power does it automatically transfer or is there a way to set a threshold to run off battery as long as possible and then fail over (based on battery voltage or depletion threshold)? My objective is to run off solar as long as possible and then switch to shore power automatically. Thanks
That is a great question, that I don't have the answer to. I recommend calling GoPower Support...they are the BEST! Odds are great that you will get a human answering the phone with in the first 1-2 rings!!!
@@tannerjim Thanks...I'll give them a shout
Will the GP-IC-2000-12 take 50A Shore Power?
Yes...My RV is 50amp and it works GREAT!! You will love this device. Combining three devices into one is a great solution for any RV.
Thanks Jim
Do they have a APP yet like redarc?
No... Just a display that is wired somewhere inside your RV. An app would be awesome.
Thanks Jim, will this also charge Lithium Batteries...i.e Battle Born. I'm getting ready make my decision soon.
I would think so, the manual (see link below) does not call them out, but has a "custom" field. To be 100% sure, I would call Go Power Tech Support....they are very easy to work with.
gpelectric.com/files/gpelectric/documents/PDF/Manual_GP-IC2000.pdf
What charge controller did you usr
Charge controller? Are you asking about my solar setup?
and how or where do you conect an mppt charge controler if also have solar panels for charging the batteries ?? sorry if it's a dumb question
I have my MPPT controller attached directly to the battery, with a cutoff switch installed. I've attached a link that will open my power distribution diagram. Hopefully that will help you understand....I'm the visual type, so this diagram was helpful in my planning of the power layout.
drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxEvZw2XQ1MQ3YwRnJoel9MaDg
thanks for the diagram Jim, just gave me a couple of good ideas!
So this DOES NOT replace the transfer switch.
Yes and No. If you have a built in generator, you will still need a transfer switch BEFORE this device. If you don't have a built in generator, this device will be your transfer switch, between Shore AC power and the AC power it creates.
@@tannerjim 10-4
In the video I recognized that I had the same converter and transfer switch as you did.
I want to get rid of my two 75AH flooded batteries and get two lithium batteries. No solar.
I’m thinking the original charger should do the trick.
The wife and I cannot come to an agreement on a larger system. I’ll have to fight that battle again another day
@@donl7114 Get your converter model number and call Battle Born. Some newer converters have a Lithium profile, if yours doesn't you will need to replace it to fully charge Lithium. Moving to 2x 100Ah Lithium's will almost triple your available amps hours, as you can use 100% of Lithium amp hours but only use 50% of Flooded amp hours. So, even with 2x75Ah flooded, you only had 75 total amp hours available. Here is a link to my 6x Battle Born Lithium install.ua-cam.com/video/08u7VRPeJD4/v-deo.html
Can this converter be used to charge Li-Ion batteries???
Per GoPower customer support......"Currently they do not support lithium but we’re exploring that option for future updates"
Interesting enough, I am now planning to install 6 Battle Born Lithium batteries. After talking with both Go Power and Battle Born, it is now ok to use the IC-2000 to charge these lithium batteries, with the understanding you configure the IC-2000 to charge at proper rates.
Battle Born recommends:
• Bulk/Absorption voltage between 14.2 - 14.6 volts.
• Float - not needed, but if device can’t disable float, have the float value at 13.6 volts
• Equalization - Not recommended. I will be using the AGM mode (all dip switches “off”) and AGM doesn’t use an “Equalization” mode….only Flooded batteries use equalization mode.
My 6 Battle Born batteries are installed and I used the "custom" setting on the IC2000. Things are looking great. Now I just have to compile it all into a new video (or 2)
where i connect generator? mine rv have no inverter installed. thanks
If you have a factory generator, that most likely goes to a transfer switch, which combines your shore power plug. Take the output of that transfer switch as the "input" to the IC2000/IC3000. Wire batteries as normal.
@@tannerjim thanks
I have a 2000 Damon Ultrasport DP with 50 amp service, I have an existing transfer switch for shore power and generator power. What do I need to run both into inverter.
The output from your current transfer switch is feeding your RV's circuit circuit breaker...right? if so, you would route that into the IC2000 (or IC3000) as well as the 12v input from your batteries. The output of the IC2000, would then simply go back to to the circuit breaker.
Jim, maybe you can give me some advise with this question: if I have a 12vdc refrigerator wired to the battery, how can I manage an alarm or auto dissconect before the fridge drains completely the battery when I'm sleeping or out the RV?... how it's usually done? thanks in advance
Are you sure your refrigerator is 12v only? I've seen these before (known at 3-way refrigerator) but they are fairly outdated. Normally, you would have a 2-way (gas or electric) or "residential" (electric only). Please confirm what you have. (model number?)
We can discuss an alarm, once I fully understand your refrigerator setup. :)
When you say "out of the rv"...are you talking about while RV is in storage or perhaps you're just out for a hike?
tks Jim, I'm on the project definition phase, figuring out where all the pieces go... yes I understand there are some 12v/110/LP refrigerators, but if I'm boodnocking I've learn that is better to run it on 12vdc (let's say I don't like LP and it's hazard implications) instead of the inverter due to eficency loss and shorting the inverter's life
yes, when I refer to out the van I mean outside the van (sorry about my english LOL)
We boondock a LOT...and I wouldn't be without a 12/Propane refrigerator. It use hardly any 12v power and very little propane. I don't know your situation, but if at all possible, go with a 2 way refrigerator (12/propane and electric). You will need a min of 2..possibly 4 deep cycle batteries to get a 12v only refrigerator working well for you.
LOL...I've been fortunate to travel all over the world for my job....your English is fine! :)
You're also going to need some efficient solar panels to replenish your batteries during the day. Have you figured out what you'll be doing there?
tks, the goal is to have a 3500 Ram promaster fixed with 300 watts solar and with a couple of 6 volts batteries with let's say 200 ah @12v pair with a 2000w pure sine inverter.... made a list of the appliances and the running time needed and my guess is that will be enough
but the refrigerator.... that's the issue, I'm lost in that one... too much drain... by the way, I'm talking about a small one, don't know, maybe 3 cu ft
so, one, don't know what kind of refrigerator is better and Two if I run it on 12vdc how to avoid damaging the fride or hurting the batteries if they get totally empty.... that was why I asked about an alarm or auto disconnect the battery...
There are a lot of devices that will cutoff the battery if it hits a certain level. Check this one on Amazon - amzn.to/2yIJlYb
Sound like you'll be fine for power most of the year...might be in issue in the winter months getting enough solar. Do you have ability to angle the panels to get optimum power in Winter?
If shore AC is wired directly into the inverter (then out to distro panel) and the inverter is switching between solar battery bank and shore power, how is a generator incorporated? In order to switch between 3 AC sources (shore AC / genset / inverter AC output) I think it could be wired as such: Generator output to the inverter AC input so it is switching between genset and solar battery bank and then the inverter's AC output would route to an external ATS that would switch between inverter AC and shore power AC. So the inverter ATS switches between genset / solar and the second ATS switches between inverter AC / shore AC. So for 3-source systems, you would still need an external ATS in addition to the internal inverter ATS.
Correct..... I do not have an on-board generator so I don't have a need for a stand-alone transfer switch.
Gotcha. I'm working on a 3-source project myself at the moment. Thanks for the info.
Did you disconnect original ac/shore and run a whole new wire to inverter that’s is to breaker panel.
I took original shore power connection to distribution panel and that is now the "in" on the IC2000. Then I ran a new connection from "out" of IC2000 back to distribution panel
@@tannerjim ok thanks that’s what I did , when I run everything like normal the inverter shuts off I think because the converter try’s to charge also. So if I shut off converter at breaker panel it runs smooth do you have to did that
@@thedodgefather3078 The IC2000 is a converter as well as inverter. You should disconnect (even remove) your prior converter.
@@tannerjim thank you I will disconnect
@@tannerjim my inverter keeps tripping or shutting down when I turn anything on do you have any ideas what to check? I mainly use for fridge but when I try tv or radio or an AC unit it shuts all power off
If I install this inverter in my rv how do I disconnect and remove The factory transfer switch and the factory converter?
do you have a factory generator? If so, you'll want to keep factory TS and then have that power sent to IC2000 (or IC3000). You simply unplug your existing converter. The wiring from IC2000 will send 12v to your RV and Batteries.
Jim, great video. I am in the process of ordering a new fifth wheel with a generator and solar panel. We plan to do a fair amount of boondocking and I wanted to minimize the amount of run time on the generator, so I was looking for an inverter we could use to power the RV on 120 v, without having to do a lot of the secondary panel and transfer switching I was reading about on the web.
One question, after looking at your wiring diagram, it looks like to me you disconnected power to the original battery charger that came with your RV? The IC2000 does all of your battery charging, besides your truck. Is that correct?
I think this is the setup I was looking for, without all the manual switching.
Thanks for your time on the video.
Vic....Yes, the IC-2000 (they now offer an IC-3000) also charges your battery. You can configure all the settings via the remote panel. I have it set to max of 80 amps....but I doubt my batteries ever get low enough to see that level of charge, as they are always being charged via our 544w of solar. Nice thing is you can also turn off the charger via the remote display. If you use my link, I get a fee from Amazon, but it doesn't cost you anything...helps offset my costs for gear and web host. Hope this helps... Jim
How far away are your batteries? And what batteries do you have.
About 5-6 feet from batteries. We use 3 Trojan T--1275 batteries for a total of 450 Amp Hours.
How did you connect this to your panel? We just installed ours and no power to the trailer - ugg
Was fairly straight forward. Ran the line from the output of the IC2000, directly to our RV's distribution panel. Connected all 4 wires and was done. Can you hear the IC2000 come on when you turn on the remote? Is the remote coming on? What is your battery level? There are 2 reset buttons on the side...any chance those are not on?
RV With The Tanners yes the remote and the ic has a green light,
We ran 10/3 from in inverter to shore power cord then from the panel to the out inverter. Ugg, what is with the dip switch not in the manual
Maria Diaz 10/3? Are you only doing 30 Amp? This is a 50amp device. I'd call GoPower Monday morning to check. I used 6/4 wire for our setup.
Can I hook this up to 30amp instead of 50?
Yes!! See page 30 of the manual for complete details. gpelectric.com/files/gpelectric/documents/PDF/Manual_GP-IC2000.pdf
Just wanted to make sure before I bought it. Thank you.
Sure...hope the video helped. If you use my link, I get a commission (doesn't cost you a penny more) which help pay for Web Hosting, Domain Name, products to review...etc. :) With 21 followers, I am a LONG LONG LONG way from making $$ from UA-cam. Hahahahaha
This still requires a solar breaker right?
This is not on the same circuit as our solar. Solar comes from roof to MPPT controller to battery bank. That circuit is complete. The IC-2000, pulls power from battery (through 400amp fuse) to IC-2000. The other power input to the IC-2000 is the Shore power to the RV. That goes through an EMS first...then to IC-2000.....then to distribution panel. Did this answer your question?
@@tannerjim Thanks for your insight on this unit, but I'm wondering where then would I make use of my 200W solar panels while using the ic2000? Does the ic2000 address the ultimate dry camping answer, or is it strictly for shore power converted to DC power?
@@martran56 IC2000/IC3000 is a converter (shore power to DC for RV's 12v device & charge battery bank) and and Inverter (AC power from battery bank). Solar would charge battery bank...then battery bank feeds 12v to this device...creating AC for the RV.
@@tannerjim Thanks. I got it. Cheers
👍
No generator input?
Unfortunately, not. You'll need a normal transfer switch if you want to wiring in a generator. Here is a link to another video I created, showing you how to wire a transfer switch. ua-cam.com/video/zTjOECEhYDM/v-deo.html The transfer switch inside this device is transferring between "shore power" and 12v power. It works GREAT for that situation, which is perfect for our RV, as we don't have a dedicated generator. We only carry a small/portable Yamaha generator.
how does that work while boondocking and you want your AC on as well? You turn you your generator for Air Cond and the rest of the AC power is run through the inverter at the same time?
For the AC to run, you CAN use the IC-2000 and a small generator (we have Yamaha EF2000). While we have not tried this, the folks at GoPower assure me it will work. Just note, that doing this will run down batteries even with the generator running at the same time. We still work full time jobs, so our camping is still limited to local trips. In Oregon, we typically don't need to run our AC unit, as temps don't get too hot where we camp.
That thing is pricey
Considering it is a 2000w Pure Sine Wave inverter, a 100 amp converter and a transfer switch, I think it is reasonably priced. Can you provide another solution that provide 50 amps per leg, at a better price?