*Go Power Website* - gpelectric.com/products/30-amp-transfer-switch/ *My Safari ME Power Station Review* - www.loveyourrv.com/lion-energy-safari-me-off-grid-power-station-review-portable-rv-camping-solution/
Thank you for the video! I wanted to confirm I was hooking mine up correctly. I didn't get much sleep and I had connected in my shore power where it's supposed to feed the distribution panel. It was a 🤦🏻♂️ moment. Thanks for the clear and detailed walk through.
Ray, one of the first aspects of your channel that appealed to me was the detailed way you presented your reviews. Keep up the good work. This review was spot on.
Hi Ray, I have been watching you for years. I purchased the same unit on Amazon and when I searched for instructions, I saw your video and got a big smile on my face. Thanks so much, I plan to install mine this weekend!
So I had bought the same transfer switch, then watched your video. I set mine up today without problems. I think i have a similar setup as you - portable generator (not attached to the trailer) and comes in on shore line power. To get around the battery charge issue, i simply disconnect my charger and attached it to the shore line connections in the transfer switch. That way when my invert is working - its not trying to charge the batteries. They will only get charged when actual shore power or generator power is introduced through the shore line cable. You might want to make that change so you don't have to remember to turn the breaker off every time you fire up the inverter.
I sometimes do want to charge my main RV battery bank via my portable power station inverter, though. So, like having the switch function. You can see that in the diagram on this recent post detailing my current power system setup www.loveyourrv.com/our-rv-boondocking-power-systems-current-state-of-things-2022/ Sometimes I like to be able to move power from the portable power station batteries into my main battery bank. With a flick of a switch I can turn on the converter charger and do that. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV OK - you have a much more complicated setup thenwe do. I'm just a simple country boy who likes to boondock occasionally. Really enjoy your videos. keep it up.
Nice job. I just ordered a Bluetti 200max and I was planning to do the same. I am going to put a 30amp plug in the kitchen so I can plug in for traveling and boondocking like you witha power cord. I wish my breaker box was as clean as yours, I have a rats nest and will have to extend my 50amp in to the transfer switch location. Thanks for the video.
I disconnected my 12 V converter/charger from the main circuit breaker and ran a line from it to the transfer switch with a push button breaker and used 3 conductor wago 221 to connect it to the line from the outside and the line side of the switch. I ran a line from the inverter to the Gen side of the switch. The output of the switch goes to the input of my breaker box. This was not easy running the lines through the wall and under the trailer and connecting them all in the switch in the bottom back of a cabinet.
Really looking forward to your update on using Lion ME as pseudo shore power. Thats been my thoughts for awhile but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Evaluating just how I want to build out the system as far as number of Lion batteries and solar panels (ground deployed or mix of ground and roof mounted). Really interested in your results. Thanks for doing this.
Should have it out soon. Have been camped off grid for 8 days and heading to a different campsite today. One thing I can say is its been handy do to its portability. I'm camped under the trees so my roof panels bring in very little power but close to an open area, so have been able to deploy the Safari ME and its panels during the day to soak up the sun. www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Safari-ME-Real-World-Tests-Deployed.jpg
@@LoveYourRV The portability is what got me to thinking of going that route vs fixed solar/inverter in camper. That and losing our power at yhe house this last winter. Could use the ME as emergency support there too.
Hi Ray. I just installed a transfer switch and I'm having an issue where the batteries recieve charge even when the inverter is on. Apparently, my original house batteries, which are connected to the same charger as my inverter batteries, provide a connection to the charger through the breaker panel so there's essentially a loop from the breaker panel connection inside the transfer switch back to the inverter batteries. I guess I'll just have to manually disconnect both battery banks whenever the inverter is on. Not a big deal I guess, but I was certainly hoping the transfer switch would control it. It's always something 🙄
There is a way to wire the transfer switch for the converter to be off when on inverter power. Watch this video, I didn't wire that way but explain how its down showing the diagram ua-cam.com/video/QEqHrIQuI8U/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
What a mess, that’s all I’ll say. We met at Saddle Mountain January- February 2019. You were leaving and we had been in our Jayco about 6 months. We been in it 40 months now and love it. Take care and maybe we will meet again.
I didn't like traveling with the open flame and spark igniter going on and off just in case I was at a fuel stop and forgot to turn it off. Also if we get in an accident I feel better having the tanks closed. Likely overly cautious but the food never really got too much warmer in the fridge while on the road. Here is a bit more info www.drivesmartbc.ca/rvs/operating-rvs-propane
❤ Ray, when you were talking about the install and everything turned off, isn't that 1.6 V. a phantom drawdown on your batteries? I have heard people say when they get over 3000 watts inverter, they get a big number on the Phantom draw. Not that you are running that much from your inverter. 👍👍
No, the 1.6V was after the battery and the inverter. It may have been stray voltage induced by from the relay coil. What people refer to is inverter idle current. Large inverters tend to have over an amp or more draw just to idle away and do nothing and cheaper inverters even worse as the electronic build quality isn't very efficient. When we had limited battery capacity and smaller solar array I used to turn the inverter off at night to save energy but now its a much smaller loss compared to system size so don't bother. Cheer's Ray
that 1.6 V. is not a phantom ( _parasitic_ is a better term) drawdown on your batteries. In close proximity to 120 VAC, you will see an induced voltage. It is the same as a transformer effect. It is why you might hear a hum in audio components if not connected or not shielded properly. I am trying to avoid a detailed lesson, but this is an artifact of using a digital VOM with high impedance. You can see these same kind of stray voltages (noise) by connecting one lead of the meter to ground, and holding the other lead between your fingers. wave your other hand around wiring and appliances (without touching anything else) and observe. There would not be enough current to support the same reading on a lower impedance analog (old-school) meter.
On the other hand, having an inverter turned on will use some overhead power, and will slowly discharge your batteries even with no load. A 3,000 Watt is not likely to be more efficient than a smaller one - but it does depend on the design (you get what you pay for). For this reason, I run both a 150W inverter for lighting loads (24 Hr.) and a 2000W inverter that is only turned on when I want to run a microwave oven or something. Both are pure sinewave.
Great video Ray! I installed my TS-30 earlier this year with my 2000 watt Renogy inverter and a battery monitor. I'm very happy with its performance. I would be interested in your tests with running the fridge. When I turned mine on, it was drawing about 125 amps according to my battery monitor. I don't see it being sustainable with these gas/electric fridges. Mine is a Dometic 6 cube. I'm running 2 - 6 volt Interstate batteries at 225 amp/hrs each. Maybe you will have better results with lithium.
My Dometic fridge only has a 325 watt electric element so shouldn't be an issue. I have 940 watts of solar on the roof and also have a DC-DC charger that runs off the truck alternator that puts out 40 amps so around 480 watts. So when towing should have plenty of juice for the fridge and to recharge my batteries. Also, the fridge will cycle on and off depending on temps so not a constant draw. 125 amps seem really excessive for the fridge alone, 125A x 12V = 1500W maybe something else was drawing power too like maybe the water heater.
@@LoveYourRV I'll check have to check that figure again. It wasn't the water heater. I would never attempt to run that off the inverter. I only have 200 watts of solar on my roof and a 100 watt ground panel with a 30 amp MPPT controller. My trips generally are only 2-4 hours so my fridge does ok being left off.
Well, I guess I have "egg in my face" Ray. My number was quite a bit less than I originally quoted. I just re-did the test with full batteries and no solar (overcast day). The fridge running on the inverter was drawing 26 amps and approx. 333 watts. I am considering a DC-DC charger as I have much longer trips planned for next year with daily drives up to 8 hours. These fridges from what I've read are suppose to be able to stay cold for up to 8hrs with no power.
@@ronpearson1790 Yeah they hold the cool pretty well if the door doesn't get opened too much. We have never driven with the propane on and never had a problem with spoiled food. Though we generally travel in pretty cool or mild temps, not often above 80F.
Hi Ray, thank you for taking the time to share your experiences. I will be installing a solar system on my 5th wheel soon. I wondering can I just turn off my inverter instead of an ABT. I am trying to stay as simpler as possible.
No problem, happy to help. Yes, can manually turn off the charger. You just don't want to be drawing power off the batteries and at the same time recharging with that same power. The loop will wear the batteries down quickly. You can either switch power manually or install an auto switch. Cheers, Ray
No, on shore power the battery charger will use the shore power so no worries. Its when off grid that the problem arises. You don't want to be charging the batteries with the batteries via an inverter. That makes a charging loop that drain the battery bank quickly. On shore power you get power from the campground to charger the batteries and run the inverter.
Can you make a video on this? Where and how to install the switch to stop that charging loop? I’m about to install an inverter and transfer switch. I have 400w of solar with two batteries already.
One of the big reasons why you don’t want to back feed to shore power is if the power fails. If you back feed to shore power during a power outage is you’ll feed anyone else connected to the shore power. The biggest issue you create a safety issue to the local Hydro employees trying to fix the downed power line. Both CSA and ULC require that any power sources inside a building or similar structured not to be able to back feed to the main power system ( shore power). I personally knew of three BC Hydro employees killed or handicapped for life because a generator in a plant wasn’t isolated from the grid during a power outage. In on case The generator was a 2kw home unit with no automatic transfer switch installed.
Interesting, I never thought of that. I wonder if campgrounds and marinas have to install some sort of protection against such a thing. Though you would think the power draw would quickly overload the generator or blow its breaker.
Usually in such a backfeed situation the local power source will quickly trip out from over current due to trying to power all the neighbours' houses, but if you are in an isolated location you may be shut off individually (no other houses to power) and the downstream side of the shutoff point would remain live causing the hazard situation.
Thanks for bring this up. As a lineman I have encountered people back feeding with generators during a power outage. It energizes the lines through the transformer
Love the channel and bought your book. Planning on hooking up my kit next weekend to my camper. I've seen conflicting advice online. Do I *need* to get a new charge converter for the LiFePo4 batteries? Or does the stock one with the lead acid charge profile just not fully charge a lithium bank? I was hoping on getting by with just the solar system charging the battery bank fully. And then letting the converter charge batteries as a back up means at the expense of the battery bank being able to only charge up to about 80% (or whatever it'll do) before panels/MPPT can take over once the sun is out.
Thank you for your video! I would like to install this in my RV with an EcoFlow Delta 2 max which will receive solar power. Do you think this would be a good solution?
I had my Ecoflow Delta Max set up like that for a while and it worked well. Here is a diagram www.loveyourrv.com/our-rv-boondocking-power-systems-current-state-of-things-2022/ Last summer though I installed a 3000W inverter so changed the wiring again for that www.loveyourrv.com/testing-out-my-new-3000w-motomaster-eliminator-pure-sine-inverter/ My system is always in a state of flux. :) Cheers, Ray
What guage is your yellow inverter to transfer switch cable? How many watts can it handle? It looks identical to the cable I used (10AWG/1875W). Thanks for the video!
If I remember right I got it a Home Depot and it was a Yellow Jacket 20A 10awg cord like this www.homedepot.ca/product/yellow-jacket-lighted-end-10-3-sjtw-50-ft-heavy-duty-yellow-jacket-extension-cord/1001529983 I've since installed a 3000W inverter and rewired things using a 30A RV power cord as a conductor www.loveyourrv.com/testing-out-my-new-3000w-motomaster-eliminator-pure-sine-inverter/ Cheers, Ray
I installed the same switch but ran the converter through it so that it automatically shuts the power off to it when the inverter is on. That way I don’t have to remember to shut the converter off.
Cool, I only use my OEM converter when on hookups for extended periods so not much of a problem for me. I have a second better quality converter mounted right beside my battery bank that I use for generator charging. Cheers, Ray
So when you have the inverter/power station providing 120v power, you have the rig charger/converter turned off…and the rig 12v system for lights, control boards, vent fans, etc… just drawing down the house batteries? I guess not a problem with the solar constantly charging the batteries?
Yes, the RV batteries provide 12VDC power. Power stations have 12VDC power, but they are somewhat limited in amperage compared to a battery, so they can have trouble properly powering motors like landing jacks, slides, awnings, etc. BTW, if interested last summer I bought myself a 3000W inverter and now have it wired to the transfer switch www.loveyourrv.com/testing-out-my-new-3000w-motomaster-eliminator-pure-sine-inverter/ Cheers, Ray
Sorry, I'm not familiar enough with 50 amp RV service to advise. 50 amp wiring can get a little complex, and since damage to the RV electrical or appliances or electrical shock is at stake, I'd hate to steer you wrong. You might try contacting Go Power. shop.gpelectric.com/pages/contact-us Cheers, Ray
What would be the difference if you just plugged your shore power into a system like the Bluetooth AC200 Max? I’m new at this stuff and looking at the simplest way to do it. I’m guessing if you wanted your power bank inside the trailer then you would still need to wire the shore power plug into the RV to plug into the power unit. And to switch between shore and power into you would physically have to un plug it then plug into shore?
Yes that's right, you can always just do it manually. I just installed the auto transfer switch for convenience sake. So, when I go off grid I don't have to bring out the shore power cord and plug it into my power station. Also, I can use the power station to easily power things in the trailer like my fridge for example as we are traveling. Cheers, Ray
Ray, thanks for all your videos. What have you learned or heard about Ground and Neutral bonding? I heard that the RV Gnd and N are not bounded, and only get bonded back at the Utility panel when the RV is plugged in. Is the Battery Inverter Bonding the Gnd and N ? I heard this is also an issue with the new inverter generators.
You're welcome. I don't believe the Safari ME inverter is bonded, most portable stuff isn't, it has a floating neutral by the looks of it much like by last few portable inverter generators I've used. I learned that the first time I plugged an inverter generator into my RV surge protector and got an error code, had to use it in bypass mode to get it to work. Then I found out about an Edison plug to bond the N-G. Added that and it worked fine again. I'm not sure if there is much of a problem running a floating neutral setup since so many RVers use portable inverter generators with no issues I've heard of. I would think if there was a concern the generator companies would have to deal with it. But I could be wrong... I should give an Edison plug a try in my new setup and see what happens.
I wonder if that 1.6vac leak is used for the xfer switch to monitor for voltage change to the inverter or used to keep the inverter circuits energized so there is no delay when switching to inverter or even to keep your settings on the inverter alive.
I'm thinking its likely being induced by the relay coil being energized to close the contacts for the shore power side. A little bit of stray voltage shows up on the inverter connections.
Thanks for this video! I'm looking to add solar and 2 lithium batteries to my Class C and was so happy to find this video showing the auto transfer switch. Is there a way to have the rig also charge the lithium when driving like the OEM house batteries? Right now it's looking like I will still have the OEM house batteries and the solar lithium system as separate sources. I would like to completely the OEM batteries and have the lithium be my DC supply as well ans the inverted AC. Thanks for your help.
You might look at installing a DC-DC charger. I have one so I can charge my lithium RV battery bank from my truck alternator while towing the trailer. www.loveyourrv.com/renogy-40-amp-dc-dc-charger-installation-and-demo/ You just have to make sure the alternator can handle the extra amperage. Cheers, Ray
The large orange cable is a my 30 amp main power line feeding into the power distribution panel. I cut it and attached one end to the transfer switch input and one end to the output. Hot, neutral and ground wires attached like the schematic in the manual. Cheers, Ray
Are you manually turning off the converter in the power center when powering the ac outlets through the inverter? I see that there is a separate circuit for a converter but I'm curious how that is wired with a power center with a converter built in vs a stand alone converter.
Yes, in my WFCO brand power center the converter charger has it own dedicated 15 amp breaker. If I flip the breaker to the off position then the converter gets no AC power to it.
Thank you again for your “tutorial”. Question for clarification…did you connect the lead from your inverter by splicing the inverter lead to the AC wire from the transfer switch before the AC wire entered your distribution box? And, correct me if I am wrong your inverter is not a inverter/charger? I am in the middle installing my solar system with a 2000w inverter/charger in our 1990 Aero Curser, and I am researching whether I even need my old converter, and because it is an inverter/charger and I have an existing transfer switch my wiring from the inverter at be slightly different. There is very few examples on the net involving transfer switches and solar wiring suggestions, so thanks for your efforts…
This Go Power transfer switch has ready-made connectors for the inverter lead so no need to slice, just had to connect them to the Wago lever nuts. s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.549/MOBI_MAN_GP-TS-30.pdf Correct, my inverter has no charger. You should be able to use the charger in your inverter charger instead of the converter. Some inverter/chargers even have a built-in transfer switch.
Hey Ray did you add a breaker to turn off your converter? Got a link to that video? I'll search in the mean time.. My PD4060K does not have a specific breaker for the converter. 30a main, 20a AC, 2or 3 15a... Reason why I don't want a switch at this point is: I have 2 separate solar systems on my stationary rig parked at my property while we build a home debt free. 1 is just 12v Safari LiFeP04 batteries connected to solar on top of the tt. 2 is Ecoflow DP + EB connected to ground mount solar panels and connected to TT via the 30a plug. There are times when I want to turn on the Ecoflow and charge the Safari's like early morning winter after 2 days of snow and times when I don't like run the AC in summer when the safari's are charged. I guess I could just turn off the external battery switch to them. What are your thoughts? I appreciate your expertise Ray.
My rig has an OEM 15A breaker just for the charge converter, so I can easily flip it off to stop AC power from going to the converter. You could do the same using, say, a light switch.
Hi, I’m looking at installing a 2000w inverter into my Reflection 5th wheel . It’s shore power is 50 amp . So would I need a 50 amp transfer switch ? If so what do you recommend? Thank you
No, the transfer switch relay is normally open, and the inverter input is connected to the main AC power distribution panel. The path to the male shore power plug is open, both neutral and hot. When shore power is plugged in, the transfer switch control board senses it and closes the relay, switching the neutral and hot, removing the inverter feed, and connecting shore power to the main panel.
No, you just hook up the ground wires to a common bus bar inside the Go Power transfer switch. You can see the wiring diagram on this page. Green is the AC ground wires. The RV AC panel will already be grounded to the chassis. support.gopowersolar.com/kb/article/254-transfer-switch-wiring-diagrams-30-amp/ Cheers, Ray
You mentioned using 2 transfer switches if you want to go between inverter, shore power, and generator. Do they make a 3 way transfer switch or do you know of a video that shows how to do that?
The manual has diagrams of a couple different way to hookup 2 TS-30 transfer switches s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.549/MOBI_MAN_GP-TS-30.pdf There likely is a 3 way transfer switch out there. Don't know of one off the top of my head though as I haven't needed one myself. Cheers, Ray
I have a 2000W portable gas generator. So either I plug my 30 amp shore power cord into it using a 30A to 20A dog bone adapter, or I also have a second battery charger and power receptible installed near my battery bank for when I just need to recharge my batteries. ua-cam.com/video/H6u7mEWjprU/v-deo.html
@@RaymondMartin-tc9nz Because it's not worth the hassle to me. Easier to leave the OEM converter wiring. I rarely use the OEM converter unless on hookups for an extended period. I have a second better quality converter charger installed right next to my battery bank in the front storage area with its own dedicated input receptacle that I use for my portable generator. I installed that quite a while ago to improve the power transfer. About a 2-foot 4 gauge wire run versus the OEM 25-foot run of 6 gauge. Cheers, Ray
Inverters usually have short circuit protection and fusing built-in. The shore power feed has the breaker on the campground pedestal. Then all the RV AC distribution has main and individual circuit breakers.
Depends on the size of inverter. I recently upgraded to 3000W inverter with a max out put of 26 amps so used a 30 amp RV power cord - ua-cam.com/video/QEqHrIQuI8U/v-deo.html
Yes, some of the hybrid inverter/chargers have a built in transfer switch. Some even will load share between the shore and battery power. Gets pricey though.
You can install two transfer switches to deal with that. See this page for the diagrams support.gopowersolar.com/kb/article/254-transfer-switch-wiring-diagrams-30-amp/
@@LoveYourRV that's what I ended up doing!! I don't know why they can't come up with an ATS that incorporates 3 inputs. Many RV'ers are boondocking now and use an inverter via solar!!! I RARELY ever have shore power and NEVER use my generator. It came with the RV so I need to run it under load once a month or so to keep it healthy! Thanks!
Great video. Too bad the box wasn't smart enough to sense the inverter and not change the batteries, therefor not requiring you to secure the converter switch.
There is a model that is available that is prewired with that function gpelectric.com/products/30-amp-pre-wired-transfer-switch/ MODEL: GP-TS (30 AMP Pre-wired Transfer Switch) amzn.to/33mVztN The GP-TS is a prewired and circuit protected version of the TS-30, designed with special features to simplify and speed up installation. It includes a cable with built-in plug to connect the inverter output and a receptacle that powers your converter only when shore power is available.
You can do that yourself by wiring the charger to the shore power line in the transfer switch (per the manufacturer). It would require you to get a different quick connector that supports three wires instead of two, though.
I have a 50 Amp service on my toy hauler. If I bridge my 220v with a plug it will run off 110v. Can I achieve this with the transfer switch? Switch 220v to 110 inverter charge bridged?
The 220-240VAC 50 amp service in your RV is actually just two - 110-120VAC 50 amp circuits. Here is an explanation - www.dmbruss.com/zFullTimeLifeStyle/FTLS_ElectricalDistribution.htm
@@LoveYourRV I understand but how would I get a transfer switch to bridge the legs then disconnect when I plug into 220v shore power. Right now I'm bridged and isolated my generator from my inverter. Or is what I want even possible?
I've never had a 50 amp RV so not overly familiar with 50 amp RV circus but sounds like you need two transfer switches or a 3 way maybe something like this rvpartsexpress.com/product/automatic-transfer-switch-for-three-50amp-power-sources-es350/
@@LoveYourRV that looks almost exactly like what's on my rv doing the switching now. I guess I could leave the legs bridged install the transfer switch and remove one of the input legs so I can't overpower it when I plug into shore? It seems to run fine on 1 leg. My inverter 3000 watt 110v even runs my AC
I don't see it as necessary. On the input 30 amp shore power side what you plug into has a 30 amp breaker. On the output the RV panel has a 30 amp breaker. On the inverter input side the inverter in the Safari ME has overload and short circuit protection.
Are there any other modifications to the ATS needed to run the generator in lieu of shorepower? Or do you need to add a second ATS, I am looking to do the same but only manually turn the generator on when my batteries tell me to in the event my solar does not keep up with the load.
Just one should be good since you are manually changing the shore input power cord. So the shore or generator AC power is one input and the inverter the other. I use it that way sometimes with my portable generator.
@@looknohands855 Yes, you'll have to try and figure out how the OEM has the system wired. They likely have some sort of built-in auto transfer switch for shore and generator. It may even already have an optional input to add the inverter. I don't know...
I'm a bit lost as what it's used for. Can anyone help me. If I'm plugged into shore power I have power, if I unplug from shore and plug into my gene I have power there, isnthere any use for this in this case? I only have one main plug so how would I be able to plug in shore and an inverter/generator at the same time?
The Go Power! 30 amp Transfer Switch provides automatic power switching between two separate 120 volt AC input sources. Some inverter installations integrate the inverter directly into the AC electrical system. An automatic transfer switch is usually installed to allow both your inverter and shore power to alternatively feed the circuits and prevent AC back feed. The Go Power! TS-30 is a 30 amp AC switch that automatically connects shore power (when available) to your breaker panel. When unplugged from power, it then connects your inverter output to power your circuits.
@@LoveYourRV thanks, that makes some sense now , I was trying to figure out how it can switch between 2 sources if I only had one plug. If I hard wire another in it would switch between the 2 👍
I'm using mine to auto switch in a portable lithium power station when I unplug from shore power www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Boondocking-Electrical-Block-Diagram-scaled.jpg www.loveyourrv.com/our-rv-boondocking-power-systems-current-state-of-things-2022/ Cheers, Ray
next time you touch a pcb board, you should always ground yourself first. it will save you from troubleshooting why nothing is working its because you could easily break the pcb. Just a tip.
*Go Power Website* - gpelectric.com/products/30-amp-transfer-switch/
*My Safari ME Power Station Review* - www.loveyourrv.com/lion-energy-safari-me-off-grid-power-station-review-portable-rv-camping-solution/
Thank you for the video! I wanted to confirm I was hooking mine up correctly. I didn't get much sleep and I had connected in my shore power where it's supposed to feed the distribution panel. It was a 🤦🏻♂️ moment. Thanks for the clear and detailed walk through.
Glad it helped :)
Ray, one of the first aspects of your channel that appealed to me was the detailed way you presented your reviews. Keep up the good work. This review was spot on.
Thanks, will do!
Hi Ray, I have been watching you for years. I purchased the same unit on Amazon and when I searched for instructions, I saw your video and got a big smile on my face. Thanks so much, I plan to install mine this weekend!
You're welcome. :)
Very nice Ray, had a moment of clarity in electricity. safety first and some of my hair slightly straighter.
So I had bought the same transfer switch, then watched your video. I set mine up today without problems. I think i have a similar setup as you - portable generator (not attached to the trailer) and comes in on shore line power. To get around the battery charge issue, i simply disconnect my charger and attached it to the shore line connections in the transfer switch. That way when my invert is working - its not trying to charge the batteries. They will only get charged when actual shore power or generator power is introduced through the shore line cable. You might want to make that change so you don't have to remember to turn the breaker off every time you fire up the inverter.
I sometimes do want to charge my main RV battery bank via my portable power station inverter, though. So, like having the switch function. You can see that in the diagram on this recent post detailing my current power system setup www.loveyourrv.com/our-rv-boondocking-power-systems-current-state-of-things-2022/ Sometimes I like to be able to move power from the portable power station batteries into my main battery bank. With a flick of a switch I can turn on the converter charger and do that. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV OK - you have a much more complicated setup thenwe do. I'm just a simple country boy who likes to boondock occasionally. Really enjoy your videos. keep it up.
Thanks. :) Yes, we are averaging about 6-8 months camped off the grid now.
Nice job. I just ordered a Bluetti 200max and I was planning to do the same. I am going to put a 30amp plug in the kitchen so I can plug in for traveling and boondocking like you witha power cord. I wish my breaker box was as clean as yours, I have a rats nest and will have to extend my 50amp in to the transfer switch location. Thanks for the video.
There's a jumper on the delay board that you can bridge that will eliminate the delay since it's really not needed for an inverter.
Thanks for the tip!
This is a great video. We’ll be installing this exact product in our new rig, and this answered every question I had! Thanks for the share!!
Thanks for making this vid. Inspired me to install the same
thank you for this, swapping things around after a failed inverter in my new rockwood camper and need to know whats out there to help me
Love the videos. I just installed the same one a few months ago, it didn’t know about the jumper. I’m going to have to try that out. Thanks again.
Installed this same box yesterday. I wired my battery charger to only run on shore power. Wired my 2000 watt inverter to the generator input.
How did you do this?
I disconnected my 12 V converter/charger from the main circuit breaker and ran a line from it to the transfer switch with a push button breaker and used 3 conductor wago 221 to connect it to the line from the outside and the line side of the switch. I ran a line from the inverter to the Gen side of the switch. The output of the switch goes to the input of my breaker box. This was not easy running the lines through the wall and under the trailer and connecting them all in the switch in the bottom back of a cabinet.
@@placesonthelist thank you this is very confusing to me
Thanks Ray! I’m not understanding why you can’t plug your 30 amp power cord into your power station to power all your AC /DC circuits.
I can but this just automates the process making it more convenient and easier to have running when traveling. Cheers, Ray
Really looking forward to your update on using Lion ME as pseudo shore power. Thats been my thoughts for awhile but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Evaluating just how I want to build out the system as far as number of Lion batteries and solar panels (ground deployed or mix of ground and roof mounted). Really interested in your results. Thanks for doing this.
Should have it out soon. Have been camped off grid for 8 days and heading to a different campsite today. One thing I can say is its been handy do to its portability. I'm camped under the trees so my roof panels bring in very little power but close to an open area, so have been able to deploy the Safari ME and its panels during the day to soak up the sun. www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Safari-ME-Real-World-Tests-Deployed.jpg
@@LoveYourRV The portability is what got me to thinking of going that route vs fixed solar/inverter in camper. That and losing our power at yhe house this last winter. Could use the ME as emergency support there too.
Hi Ray. I just installed a transfer switch and I'm having an issue where the batteries recieve charge even when the inverter is on. Apparently, my original house batteries, which are connected to the same charger as my inverter batteries, provide a connection to the charger through the breaker panel so there's essentially a loop from the breaker panel connection inside the transfer switch back to the inverter batteries.
I guess I'll just have to manually disconnect both battery banks whenever the inverter is on.
Not a big deal I guess, but I was certainly hoping the transfer switch would control it.
It's always something 🙄
There is a way to wire the transfer switch for the converter to be off when on inverter power. Watch this video, I didn't wire that way but explain how its down showing the diagram ua-cam.com/video/QEqHrIQuI8U/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
Are you two coming south this winter ? Quartzsite maybe ? Hope all is good with you guys
Not sure, waiting to see if the US government decides to open up the land border to Canadians. :)
What a mess, that’s all I’ll say. We met at Saddle Mountain January- February 2019. You were leaving and we had been in our Jayco about 6 months. We been in it 40 months now and love it. Take care and maybe we will meet again.
I hear you say that you didn't travel with your fridge on propane, is there a reason for that ?
I didn't like traveling with the open flame and spark igniter going on and off just in case I was at a fuel stop and forgot to turn it off. Also if we get in an accident I feel better having the tanks closed. Likely overly cautious but the food never really got too much warmer in the fridge while on the road. Here is a bit more info www.drivesmartbc.ca/rvs/operating-rvs-propane
❤ Ray, when you were talking about the install and everything turned off, isn't that 1.6 V. a phantom drawdown on your batteries? I have heard people say when they get over 3000 watts inverter, they get a big number on the Phantom draw. Not that you are running that much from your inverter. 👍👍
No, the 1.6V was after the battery and the inverter. It may have been stray voltage induced by from the relay coil. What people refer to is inverter idle current. Large inverters tend to have over an amp or more draw just to idle away and do nothing and cheaper inverters even worse as the electronic build quality isn't very efficient. When we had limited battery capacity and smaller solar array I used to turn the inverter off at night to save energy but now its a much smaller loss compared to system size so don't bother. Cheer's Ray
that 1.6 V. is not a phantom ( _parasitic_ is a better term) drawdown on your batteries.
In close proximity to 120 VAC, you will see an induced voltage. It is the same as a transformer effect. It is why you might hear a hum in audio components if not connected or not shielded properly.
I am trying to avoid a detailed lesson, but this is an artifact of using a digital VOM with high impedance. You can see these same kind of stray voltages (noise) by connecting one lead of the meter to ground, and holding the other lead between your fingers. wave your other hand around wiring and appliances (without touching anything else) and observe.
There would not be enough current to support the same reading on a lower impedance analog (old-school) meter.
@@jamesalles139 Thanks James for clarifying. 👍👍
On the other hand, having an inverter turned on will use some overhead power, and will slowly discharge your batteries even with no load. A 3,000 Watt is not likely to be more efficient than a smaller one - but it does depend on the design (you get what you pay for).
For this reason, I run both a 150W inverter for lighting loads (24 Hr.) and a 2000W inverter that is only turned on when I want to run a microwave oven or something. Both are pure sinewave.
@@joeblow3939 it's a good question!
Great video Ray! I installed my TS-30 earlier this year with my 2000 watt Renogy inverter and a battery monitor. I'm very happy with its performance. I would be interested in your tests with running the fridge. When I turned mine on, it was drawing about 125 amps according to my battery monitor. I don't see it being sustainable with these gas/electric fridges. Mine is a Dometic 6 cube. I'm running 2 - 6 volt Interstate batteries at 225 amp/hrs each. Maybe you will have better results with lithium.
My Dometic fridge only has a 325 watt electric element so shouldn't be an issue. I have 940 watts of solar on the roof and also have a DC-DC charger that runs off the truck alternator that puts out 40 amps so around 480 watts.
So when towing should have plenty of juice for the fridge and to recharge my batteries. Also, the fridge will cycle on and off depending on temps so not a constant draw.
125 amps seem really excessive for the fridge alone, 125A x 12V = 1500W maybe something else was drawing power too like maybe the water heater.
@@LoveYourRV I'll check have to check that figure again. It wasn't the water heater. I would never attempt to run that off the inverter. I only have 200 watts of solar on my roof and a 100 watt ground panel with a 30 amp MPPT controller. My trips generally are only 2-4 hours so my fridge does ok being left off.
Well, I guess I have "egg in my face" Ray. My number was quite a bit less than I originally quoted. I just re-did the test with full batteries and no solar (overcast day). The fridge running on the inverter was drawing 26 amps and approx. 333 watts. I am considering a DC-DC charger as I have much longer trips planned for next year with daily drives up to 8 hours. These fridges from what I've read are suppose to be able to stay cold for up to 8hrs with no power.
@@ronpearson1790 Yeah they hold the cool pretty well if the door doesn't get opened too much. We have never driven with the propane on and never had a problem with spoiled food. Though we generally travel in pretty cool or mild temps, not often above 80F.
Our regular house type fridge only draws less than 1 amp AC, and 7 amps DC.
Hi Ray, thank you for taking the time to share your experiences. I will be installing a solar system on my 5th wheel soon. I wondering can I just turn off my inverter instead of an ABT. I am trying to stay as simpler as possible.
No problem, happy to help. Yes, can manually turn off the charger. You just don't want to be drawing power off the batteries and at the same time recharging with that same power. The loop will wear the batteries down quickly. You can either switch power manually or install an auto switch. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV so would I turn off both the charger and inverter if hooked up to shore power?
No, on shore power the battery charger will use the shore power so no worries. Its when off grid that the problem arises. You don't want to be charging the batteries with the batteries via an inverter. That makes a charging loop that drain the battery bank quickly. On shore power you get power from the campground to charger the batteries and run the inverter.
Can you make a video on this? Where and how to install the switch to stop that charging loop? I’m about to install an inverter and transfer switch. I have 400w of solar with two batteries already.
One of the big reasons why you don’t want to back feed to shore power is if the power fails. If you back feed to shore power during a power outage is you’ll feed anyone else connected to the shore power. The biggest issue you create a safety issue to the local Hydro employees trying to fix the downed power line. Both CSA and ULC require that any power sources inside a building or similar structured not to be able to back feed to the main power system ( shore power).
I personally knew of three BC Hydro employees killed or handicapped for life because a generator in a plant wasn’t isolated from the grid during a power outage. In on case The generator was a 2kw home unit with no automatic transfer switch installed.
Interesting, I never thought of that. I wonder if campgrounds and marinas have to install some sort of protection against such a thing. Though you would think the power draw would quickly overload the generator or blow its breaker.
Usually in such a backfeed situation the local power source will quickly trip out from over current due to trying to power all the neighbours' houses, but if you are in an isolated location you may be shut off individually (no other houses to power) and the downstream side of the shutoff point would remain live causing the hazard situation.
Thanks for bring this up. As a lineman I have encountered people back feeding with generators during a power outage. It energizes the lines through the transformer
great video! no problem with your integrate batterie charger inverter? can you use your 12V lights wile your inverter is on?
Thanks :) When the inverter is on I don't use my converter charger but the 12V lights and other 12V RV loads run fine off my batteries.
I HAVE THE 50A AND IT WORKS GREAT .
This is so funny, mine just arrived from Amazon today! Great video
Have fun!
Love the channel and bought your book. Planning on hooking up my kit next weekend to my camper. I've seen conflicting advice online. Do I *need* to get a new charge converter for the LiFePo4 batteries? Or does the stock one with the lead acid charge profile just not fully charge a lithium bank? I was hoping on getting by with just the solar system charging the battery bank fully. And then letting the converter charge batteries as a back up means at the expense of the battery bank being able to only charge up to about 80% (or whatever it'll do) before panels/MPPT can take over once the sun is out.
Here is a video I did addressing that question www.loveyourrv.com/lithium-battery-charge-test-can-you-use-a-lead-acid-charge-converter/ Cheers, Ray
Thank you for your video! I would like to install this in my RV with an EcoFlow Delta 2 max which will receive solar power. Do you think this would be a good solution?
I had my Ecoflow Delta Max set up like that for a while and it worked well. Here is a diagram www.loveyourrv.com/our-rv-boondocking-power-systems-current-state-of-things-2022/
Last summer though I installed a 3000W inverter so changed the wiring again for that www.loveyourrv.com/testing-out-my-new-3000w-motomaster-eliminator-pure-sine-inverter/ My system is always in a state of flux. :) Cheers, Ray
What guage is your yellow inverter to transfer switch cable?
How many watts can it handle?
It looks identical to the cable I used (10AWG/1875W).
Thanks for the video!
If I remember right I got it a Home Depot and it was a Yellow Jacket 20A 10awg cord like this www.homedepot.ca/product/yellow-jacket-lighted-end-10-3-sjtw-50-ft-heavy-duty-yellow-jacket-extension-cord/1001529983 I've since installed a 3000W inverter and rewired things using a 30A RV power cord as a conductor www.loveyourrv.com/testing-out-my-new-3000w-motomaster-eliminator-pure-sine-inverter/ Cheers, Ray
I installed the same switch but ran the converter through it so that it automatically shuts the power off to it when the inverter is on. That way I don’t have to remember to shut the converter off.
Cool, I only use my OEM converter when on hookups for extended periods so not much of a problem for me. I have a second better quality converter mounted right beside my battery bank that I use for generator charging. Cheers, Ray
So when you have the inverter/power station providing 120v power, you have the rig charger/converter turned off…and the rig 12v system for lights, control boards, vent fans, etc… just drawing down the house batteries? I guess not a problem with the solar constantly charging the batteries?
Yes, the RV batteries provide 12VDC power. Power stations have 12VDC power, but they are somewhat limited in amperage compared to a battery, so they can have trouble properly powering motors like landing jacks, slides, awnings, etc. BTW, if interested last summer I bought myself a 3000W inverter and now have it wired to the transfer switch www.loveyourrv.com/testing-out-my-new-3000w-motomaster-eliminator-pure-sine-inverter/ Cheers, Ray
Is there a way to hookup 30 amp transfer switch on rv with 50 amp service? We always only connect up with 30 amp cord in parks. We never use 50 amp.
Sorry, I'm not familiar enough with 50 amp RV service to advise. 50 amp wiring can get a little complex, and since damage to the RV electrical or appliances or electrical shock is at stake, I'd hate to steer you wrong. You might try contacting Go Power. shop.gpelectric.com/pages/contact-us Cheers, Ray
What would be the difference if you just plugged your shore power into a system like the Bluetooth AC200 Max? I’m new at this stuff and looking at the simplest way to do it. I’m guessing if you wanted your power bank inside the trailer then you would still need to wire the shore power plug into the RV to plug into the power unit. And to switch between shore and power into you would physically have to un plug it then plug into shore?
Yes that's right, you can always just do it manually. I just installed the auto transfer switch for convenience sake. So, when I go off grid I don't have to bring out the shore power cord and plug it into my power station. Also, I can use the power station to easily power things in the trailer like my fridge for example as we are traveling. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV awesome. Thank you.
Ray, thanks for all your videos. What have you learned or heard about Ground and Neutral bonding? I heard that the RV Gnd and N are not bounded, and only get bonded back at the Utility panel when the RV is plugged in. Is the Battery Inverter Bonding the Gnd and N ? I heard this is also an issue with the new inverter generators.
You're welcome. I don't believe the Safari ME inverter is bonded, most portable stuff isn't, it has a floating neutral by the looks of it much like by last few portable inverter generators I've used. I learned that the first time I plugged an inverter generator into my RV surge protector and got an error code, had to use it in bypass mode to get it to work. Then I found out about an Edison plug to bond the N-G. Added that and it worked fine again.
I'm not sure if there is much of a problem running a floating neutral setup since so many RVers use portable inverter generators with no issues I've heard of. I would think if there was a concern the generator companies would have to deal with it. But I could be wrong... I should give an Edison plug a try in my new setup and see what happens.
I wonder if that 1.6vac leak is used for the xfer switch to monitor for voltage change to the inverter or used to keep the inverter circuits energized so there is no delay when switching to inverter or even to keep your settings on the inverter alive.
I'm thinking its likely being induced by the relay coil being energized to close the contacts for the shore power side. A little bit of stray voltage shows up on the inverter connections.
Thanks for this video! I'm looking to add solar and 2 lithium batteries to my Class C and was so happy to find this video showing the auto transfer switch. Is there a way to have the rig also charge the lithium when driving like the OEM house batteries? Right now it's looking like I will still have the OEM house batteries and the solar lithium system as separate sources. I would like to completely the OEM batteries and have the lithium be my DC supply as well ans the inverted AC. Thanks for your help.
You might look at installing a DC-DC charger. I have one so I can charge my lithium RV battery bank from my truck alternator while towing the trailer. www.loveyourrv.com/renogy-40-amp-dc-dc-charger-installation-and-demo/ You just have to make sure the alternator can handle the extra amperage. Cheers, Ray
I couldn’t tell how you tied into the main power line, can you please explain how you connected it
The large orange cable is a my 30 amp main power line feeding into the power distribution panel. I cut it and attached one end to the transfer switch input and one end to the output. Hot, neutral and ground wires attached like the schematic in the manual. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV thank you
Are you manually turning off the converter in the power center when powering the ac outlets through the inverter? I see that there is a separate circuit for a converter but I'm curious how that is wired with a power center with a converter built in vs a stand alone converter.
Yes, in my WFCO brand power center the converter charger has it own dedicated 15 amp breaker. If I flip the breaker to the off position then the converter gets no AC power to it.
Thank you again for your “tutorial”. Question for clarification…did you connect the lead from your inverter by splicing the inverter lead to the AC wire from the transfer switch before the AC wire entered your distribution box? And, correct me if I am wrong your inverter is not a inverter/charger? I am in the middle installing my solar system with a 2000w inverter/charger in our 1990 Aero Curser, and I am researching whether I even need my old converter, and because it is an inverter/charger and I have an existing transfer switch my wiring from the inverter at be slightly different. There is very few examples on the net involving transfer switches and solar wiring suggestions, so thanks for your efforts…
This Go Power transfer switch has ready-made connectors for the inverter lead so no need to slice, just had to connect them to the Wago lever nuts. s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.549/MOBI_MAN_GP-TS-30.pdf
Correct, my inverter has no charger. You should be able to use the charger in your inverter charger instead of the converter. Some inverter/chargers even have a built-in transfer switch.
Hey Ray did you add a breaker to turn off your converter?
Got a link to that video?
I'll search in the mean time..
My PD4060K does not have a specific breaker for the converter. 30a main, 20a AC, 2or 3 15a...
Reason why I don't want a switch at this point is:
I have 2 separate solar systems on my stationary rig parked at my property while we build a home debt free.
1 is just 12v Safari LiFeP04 batteries connected to solar on top of the tt.
2 is Ecoflow DP + EB connected to ground mount solar panels and connected to TT via the 30a plug.
There are times when I want to turn on the Ecoflow and charge the Safari's like early morning winter after 2 days of snow and times when I don't like run the AC in summer when the safari's are charged.
I guess I could just turn off the external battery switch to them.
What are your thoughts?
I appreciate your expertise Ray.
My rig has an OEM 15A breaker just for the charge converter, so I can easily flip it off to stop AC power from going to the converter. You could do the same using, say, a light switch.
Hi,
I’m looking at installing a 2000w inverter into my Reflection 5th wheel . It’s shore power is 50 amp . So would I need a 50 amp transfer switch ? If so what do you recommend?
Thank you
The way you wired it, isn't that going to backfeed 120 volts to your main male shore power plug?
No, the transfer switch relay is normally open, and the inverter input is connected to the main AC power distribution panel. The path to the male shore power plug is open, both neutral and hot. When shore power is plugged in, the transfer switch control board senses it and closes the relay, switching the neutral and hot, removing the inverter feed, and connecting shore power to the main panel.
@@LoveYourRV ok, thanks
Ray,
Your AC power to your camper panel is grounded to the chassis. Do you still add another chassis ground to the Transfer Switch?
No, you just hook up the ground wires to a common bus bar inside the Go Power transfer switch. You can see the wiring diagram on this page. Green is the AC ground wires. The RV AC panel will already be grounded to the chassis. support.gopowersolar.com/kb/article/254-transfer-switch-wiring-diagrams-30-amp/ Cheers, Ray
Ray, thanks for the reply!
Are there any drawbacks from having a second ground chassis? Could this create a ground looping?
It's hard to say, but sometimes adding extra redundant grounds can introduce noise and hum that can affect things like radio signals, for example.
You mentioned using 2 transfer switches if you want to go between inverter, shore power, and generator. Do they make a 3 way transfer switch or do you know of a video that shows how to do that?
The manual has diagrams of a couple different way to hookup 2 TS-30 transfer switches s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.549/MOBI_MAN_GP-TS-30.pdf There likely is a 3 way transfer switch out there. Don't know of one off the top of my head though as I haven't needed one myself. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Thanks for the video Ray! What do you do when hooking up to a generator out of curiousity?
I have a 2000W portable gas generator. So either I plug my 30 amp shore power cord into it using a 30A to 20A dog bone adapter, or I also have a second battery charger and power receptible installed near my battery bank for when I just need to recharge my batteries. ua-cam.com/video/H6u7mEWjprU/v-deo.html
Thanks Ray. How do you prevent the converter from trying to recharge your battery while you're on inverter power?
My converter has dedicated breaker. I just switch it off and then no power goes to the converter.
@@LoveYourRV Why not just wire the converter to the shore power side of the switch? Add a 15am fuse/breaker and done.
@@RaymondMartin-tc9nz Because it's not worth the hassle to me. Easier to leave the OEM converter wiring. I rarely use the OEM converter unless on hookups for an extended period. I have a second better quality converter charger installed right next to my battery bank in the front storage area with its own dedicated input receptacle that I use for my portable generator. I installed that quite a while ago to improve the power transfer. About a 2-foot 4 gauge wire run versus the OEM 25-foot run of 6 gauge. Cheers, Ray
I notice the wiring diagram for inverter to shore power calls for at 15 amp fuse... is that build in? Thanks.
Inverters usually have short circuit protection and fusing built-in. The shore power feed has the breaker on the campground pedestal. Then all the RV AC distribution has main and individual circuit breakers.
Nice Job Ray.
Ray recommendation on that power cord from the inverter to the transfer switch? Is the 10/3. 15amp heavy duty one okay for the current?
Depends on the size of inverter. I recently upgraded to 3000W inverter with a max out put of 26 amps so used a 30 amp RV power cord - ua-cam.com/video/QEqHrIQuI8U/v-deo.html
@@LoveYourRV mine will be a 2000w inverter with a 30amp camper
Would an Inverter/charger with bypass fix all the issues and just wire it to one?
Yes, some of the hybrid inverter/chargers have a built in transfer switch. Some even will load share between the shore and battery power. Gets pricey though.
Nicely done !
What if you have shore power, generator, AND inverter?? Do they make 3 input switches?
You can install two transfer switches to deal with that. See this page for the diagrams support.gopowersolar.com/kb/article/254-transfer-switch-wiring-diagrams-30-amp/
@@LoveYourRV that's what I ended up doing!! I don't know why they can't come up with an ATS that incorporates 3 inputs. Many RV'ers are boondocking now and use an inverter via solar!!! I RARELY ever have shore power and NEVER use my generator. It came with the RV so I need to run it under load once a month or so to keep it healthy! Thanks!
Great video. Too bad the box wasn't smart enough to sense the inverter and not change the batteries, therefor not requiring you to secure the converter switch.
There is a model that is available that is prewired with that function gpelectric.com/products/30-amp-pre-wired-transfer-switch/
MODEL: GP-TS (30 AMP Pre-wired Transfer Switch) amzn.to/33mVztN
The GP-TS is a prewired and circuit protected version of the TS-30, designed with special features to simplify and speed up installation. It includes a cable with built-in plug to connect the inverter output and a receptacle that powers your converter only when shore power is available.
@@LoveYourRV Thank you!
You can do that yourself by wiring the charger to the shore power line in the transfer switch (per the manufacturer).
It would require you to get a different quick connector that supports three wires instead of two, though.
I have a 50 Amp service on my toy hauler. If I bridge my 220v with a plug it will run off 110v. Can I achieve this with the transfer switch? Switch 220v to 110 inverter charge bridged?
The 220-240VAC 50 amp service in your RV is actually just two - 110-120VAC 50 amp circuits. Here is an explanation - www.dmbruss.com/zFullTimeLifeStyle/FTLS_ElectricalDistribution.htm
@@LoveYourRV I understand but how would I get a transfer switch to bridge the legs then disconnect when I plug into 220v shore power. Right now I'm bridged and isolated my generator from my inverter. Or is what I want even possible?
I've never had a 50 amp RV so not overly familiar with 50 amp RV circus but sounds like you need two transfer switches or a 3 way maybe something like this rvpartsexpress.com/product/automatic-transfer-switch-for-three-50amp-power-sources-es350/
@@LoveYourRV that looks almost exactly like what's on my rv doing the switching now. I guess I could leave the legs bridged install the transfer switch and remove one of the input legs so I can't overpower it when I plug into shore? It seems to run fine on 1 leg. My inverter 3000 watt 110v even runs my AC
Are you going to fuse it with a 50 or 60 amp fuse or is it necessary? Xfer switch has one?
I don't see it as necessary. On the input 30 amp shore power side what you plug into has a 30 amp breaker. On the output the RV panel has a 30 amp breaker. On the inverter input side the inverter in the Safari ME has overload and short circuit protection.
how does the solar power battery get charged directly from shore power?
It comes with its own power cord. Just plug it into a shore power outlet and it recharges.
Does the transfer switch itself draw a lot of power?
I'd guess it must draw a small amount when on shore power for its solenoid coil to switch the relay over to the shore power.
Are there any other modifications to the ATS needed to run the generator in lieu of shorepower? Or do you need to add a second ATS, I am looking to do the same but only manually turn the generator on when my batteries tell me to in the event my solar does not keep up with the load.
Just one should be good since you are manually changing the shore input power cord. So the shore or generator AC power is one input and the inverter the other. I use it that way sometimes with my portable generator.
@@LoveYourRV any concerns with a built in? My toyhauler has a built in Onan I'm worried about.
@@looknohands855 Yes, you'll have to try and figure out how the OEM has the system wired. They likely have some sort of built-in auto transfer switch for shore and generator. It may even already have an optional input to add the inverter. I don't know...
I'm a bit lost as what it's used for. Can anyone help me. If I'm plugged into shore power I have power, if I unplug from shore and plug into my gene I have power there, isnthere any use for this in this case? I only have one main plug so how would I be able to plug in shore and an inverter/generator at the same time?
The Go Power! 30 amp Transfer Switch provides automatic power switching between two separate 120 volt AC input sources. Some inverter installations integrate the inverter directly into the AC electrical system.
An automatic transfer switch is usually installed to allow both your inverter and shore power to alternatively feed the circuits and prevent AC back feed. The Go Power! TS-30 is a 30 amp AC switch that automatically connects shore power (when available) to your breaker panel. When unplugged from power, it then connects your inverter output to power your circuits.
Also many RVs have built in generators so require a transfer switch. For a portable generator they aren't really needed.
@@LoveYourRV thanks, that makes some sense now , I was trying to figure out how it can switch between 2 sources if I only had one plug. If I hard wire another in it would switch between the 2 👍
I'm using mine to auto switch in a portable lithium power station when I unplug from shore power www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Boondocking-Electrical-Block-Diagram-scaled.jpg www.loveyourrv.com/our-rv-boondocking-power-systems-current-state-of-things-2022/ Cheers, Ray
Thanks.
next time you touch a pcb board, you should always ground yourself first. it will save you from troubleshooting why nothing is working its because you could easily break the pcb. Just a tip.
👍