I had to service the same engine that was on a John Deere Bunker Rake. I had to remove the whole engine to clean the carburetor (as you mentioned, bolted from underneath). As much as it was difficult to get all that done, the customer (who bought it used) said that it runs better then when he first bought it! He has been instructed to always run high octane, non-ethanol fuel from now on. Thanks for the video.
@@EliminatorPerformance I feel the same way about the Command. You have to take the shroud off to get to the coil packs (which are problematic always). I have given up on the modern engines completely and look for the cast iron classics.
Really great surgical repair to get this awesome engine running properly. You likely saved your customer a serious amount of cash by doing the repair in the manner that you did. A brain surgeon couldn't have done a better job. Looking forward to your next video they keep getting better.
@@EliminatorPerformance your welcome i have a 318 myself and im working on fixing it up like that but for now its a working tractor and used very hard most of the time trying to save up for a new engine for mine but it works now
fantastic work. Really solid mechanic, true dedication to his craft. .. The owner should be told to eliminate the fuel shut off solenoid ,.. cut 1/8 inch off the tip.
Great idea to wire the fuel pump through the seat safety switch, if overheat or fire starts under the hood, dismounting the tractor stops the flow of fuel!.. job well done.
Il realy like de way you work, and explaine those ting that you do to make it work good. you drive so conscientiously your buisness that i think you will be big some day with great renown. I hope you will make instructive videos for a long time. God bless you Jake. have a good week ! thank's
At 6:54 Water does not burn!!! What they mean by water eliminator is that it prevents freezing of water in the gas. Mostly need if used/needed in the winter.
"It is difficult for an engine to burn off large particles of water as it passes through. K100S+ breaks large chunks of water in the gas tank into tiny water particles that the engine can easily burn off."
@@okjd159 it technically doesn't "burn" but with the addition of K100S+ (as stated in my previous comment) the K100S+ break the water up into smaller particles, making it easier for the engine to combust.
Great and valuable lessons learned. Thank you! I have three JD 317s: 1.) Original Series I Kohler, 2.) Series II Kohler, and 3.) a Vanguard exactly like the one in this video. I have a small problem I hope you can help me with regarding the Vanguard. It doesn't seem to be at the correct RPM at full throttle as required by the JD 317 drive system. That is the ONLY problem. I can work it all day with no issues (bucket loader, full tiller, pulling an overloaded trailer, and of course mowing with a JD 48 inch deck). But if I go from one field to another for mowing, for example, the top speed of the Vanguard powered 317 is much slower than the other two (tires are the same) 317s. Also, the Vanguard just doesn't sound like it is at full speed. There are no issues with the throttle cable adjustment. I was unable to obtain a "run speed" from anywhere to tell me what the Vanguard Specification should be at (RPM) when set to full throttle. Also, even if I could find that out, I don't know how to adjust it. Do you know the correct RPM for this application and how to adjust the governor to obtain the correct RPM at full throttle? Much thanks for any info and outstanding how to diagnose video!
I was thinking of doing this swap on my 318. I wonder if I'd be better to swap with the Honda engine so I could work on the carb without pulling the engine.
Nice resto your customer done. Briggs and Stratton should’ve designed their vanguard intake manifolds differently. Kinda nonsense to remove everything to perform a complete carb clean. However it is nice to have the main jet right after the backfire solenoid, there’s a bunch of models that doesn’t have this conveniently placed jet. Good video bro! Keep up the hard work!
Not without removing the red cover. The carburetor is bolted from underneath the intake manifold. Meaning that has to come out in order to get the carb off. So remove red cover > intake manifold > carb.
Hmm...thought it was the other way around. Low octane burns up pretty quickly and is not in the cylinder long enough to keep it running cooler. Oh well, I could have it backwards, I guess.
Higher octane fuel burns slower and more efficiently, but also burns hotter. Lower octane fuel burns faster, thus combusts quickly, which generally causes knock in some engines.
Every one of my fuel solenoids is modified to not work properly and I install manual inline fuel valves and that's how I shut off my machines. I don't have to worry about backfiring or gunk build up.
A fuel shut off Electrical valve ?? All the years we have used carburetors built in the U.S.A With no Electronics just mechanical . Why did this change ?
One guy laughed at me and said that ain't gonna fit on there because the pulleys don't line up but that's why to make it fit and work i told em well I'll make it work He said yeah but on that one the pulleys are sideways then this one its below so I guess he doesn't know how to make things work when they don't fit
I have a older twin and its gonna go on the 1967 John deere cause i need to eliminate some junk from the yard and clear up some space Its Kohler engine not doing good because of the lack of parts i need I'm changing it out and store it in the shed it runs but is old and lacking those old parts The other mower has a transmission problem but a good engine so I'll make it fit and work then find new belts then I can play on that old thing kinda don't like the puke green so might repaint it some other color My problem will be the hood is not gonna shut with the new old engine put on i can see it by eye view that it won't because the replacement engine i could cut the hood but they don't make 1967 hoods any more i gotta be careful when modifying that one
I wouldn't say it's a poor design, it's just that the rear of the engine on this machine is actually supposed to be the front! Usually you can remove the hood, take off the red cover, pull the intake manifold and then remove carb. But due to the way this engine was mounted, this is what we have to do!
What a mechanic! He adapted and overcame the issue of a but load of extra work and concentrated on the problem excellent job !
Thanks for watching Jimmy!
I had to service the same engine that was on a John Deere Bunker Rake. I had to remove the whole engine to clean the carburetor (as you mentioned, bolted from underneath). As much as it was difficult to get all that done, the customer (who bought it used) said that it runs better then when he first bought it! He has been instructed to always run high octane, non-ethanol fuel from now on. Thanks for the video.
This is why it is worth rebuilding the original engines. Those are easy to service.
Yea this one is absolutely a pain to work on!
@@EliminatorPerformance I feel the same way about the Command. You have to take the shroud off to get to the coil packs (which are problematic always). I have given up on the modern engines completely and look for the cast iron classics.
Really great surgical repair to get this awesome engine running properly. You likely saved your customer a serious amount of cash by doing the repair in the manner that you did. A brain surgeon couldn't have done a better job. Looking forward to your next video they keep getting better.
Nice that 316 looks awesome and now runs like it should good work.
Thanks Mr. Farmer, this machine has been taken care of very well!
@@EliminatorPerformance your welcome i have a 318 myself and im working on fixing it up like that but for now its a working tractor and used very hard most of the time trying to save up for a new engine for mine but it works now
I always put a fuel shut off in for a back up to the solenoid. Good for storage as well.
fantastic work. Really solid mechanic, true dedication to his craft. .. The owner should be told to eliminate the fuel shut off solenoid ,.. cut 1/8 inch off the tip.
Great idea to wire the fuel pump through the seat safety switch, if overheat or fire starts under the hood, dismounting the tractor stops the flow of fuel!.. job well done.
Il realy like de way you work, and explaine those ting that you do to make it work good. you drive so conscientiously your buisness that i think you will be big some day with great renown. I hope you will make instructive videos for a long time. God bless you Jake. have a good week ! thank's
Thanks for the kind words Minouchat!
At 6:54 Water does not burn!!! What they mean by water eliminator is that it prevents freezing of water in the gas. Mostly need if used/needed in the winter.
"It is difficult for an engine to burn off large particles of water as it passes through. K100S+ breaks large chunks of water in the gas tank into tiny water particles that the engine can easily burn off."
@@EliminatorPerformance If water burn fire depts could not use it to put out fires.
@@okjd159 it technically doesn't "burn" but with the addition of K100S+ (as stated in my previous comment) the K100S+ break the water up into smaller particles, making it easier for the engine to combust.
@@EliminatorPerformance That,s much better
Great and valuable lessons learned. Thank you! I have three JD 317s: 1.) Original Series I Kohler, 2.) Series II Kohler, and 3.) a Vanguard exactly like the one in this video. I have a small problem I hope you can help me with regarding the Vanguard. It doesn't seem to be at the correct RPM at full throttle as required by the JD 317 drive system. That is the ONLY problem. I can work it all day with no issues (bucket loader, full tiller, pulling an overloaded trailer, and of course mowing with a JD 48 inch deck). But if I go from one field to another for mowing, for example, the top speed of the Vanguard powered 317 is much slower than the other two (tires are the same) 317s. Also, the Vanguard just doesn't sound like it is at full speed. There are no issues with the throttle cable adjustment. I was unable to obtain a "run speed" from anywhere to tell me what the Vanguard Specification should be at (RPM) when set to full throttle. Also, even if I could find that out, I don't know how to adjust it. Do you know the correct RPM for this application and how to adjust the governor to obtain the correct RPM at full throttle? Much thanks for any info and outstanding how to diagnose video!
I was thinking of doing this swap on my 318. I wonder if I'd be better to swap with the Honda engine so I could work on the carb without pulling the engine.
Yep people just don’t know how bad gas gets seating over winter or even a few weeks any time
They're selling 88 Octane E15 Unleaded Gasohol at all Casey's Convenience Stores (as " Unleaded 88") in my area now...
Nice detective work.
Thanks Vernon!
Great video
Thanks for watching Don!
Nice resto your customer done. Briggs and Stratton should’ve designed their vanguard intake manifolds differently. Kinda nonsense to remove everything to perform a complete carb clean. However it is nice to have the main jet right after the backfire solenoid, there’s a bunch of models that doesn’t have this conveniently placed jet. Good video bro! Keep up the hard work!
Thanks for watching John!
I guess the origninal Onan is obsolete? Parts availability, etc.?
Parts are drying up and it costs as much to rebuild as it does to install a setup like this.
On the onan engines, you can use a crows foot and pull carb alone. Possible to do that on this one?
Not without removing the red cover. The carburetor is bolted from underneath the intake manifold. Meaning that has to come out in order to get the carb off. So remove red cover > intake manifold > carb.
The true fuel woks well in cleaning carbs. too .
Good day Interesting video. That seafoam can it be used on fuel injected pickups too? What motor would have been in original ? Thanks
Don, yes Sea-Foam works in fuel injected gasoline or diesel engines as well!
Original engine would most likely have been a Kohler 341
@Rodger Grant That's right they also came with the Onan!
The later 316's (Last few years up to end of production run) also came with the Onan P218G, just like the 318's.
Keep in mind, high octane burns slower which increases heat and can contribute to piston damage.:-)
Yes it was just more of an explanation that you can always use 60ml of fuel stabilizer instead of 30ml etc...
Hmm...thought it was the other way around. Low octane burns up pretty quickly and is not in the cylinder long enough to keep it running cooler. Oh well, I could have it backwards, I guess.
Higher octane fuel burns slower and more efficiently, but also burns hotter.
Lower octane fuel burns faster, thus combusts quickly, which generally causes knock in some engines.
Great work!!!!!!👍🍺
Thanks for watching Bruce!
I'd be looking into changing the carb by using a plate for another carb.
That's what I told my customer, modify the firewall and dash to allow for quick removal!
Every one of my fuel solenoids is modified to not work properly and I install manual inline fuel valves and that's how I shut off my machines. I don't have to worry about backfiring or gunk build up.
A fuel shut off Electrical valve ?? All the years we have used carburetors built in the U.S.A With no Electronics just mechanical . Why did this change ?
keeps it from backfiring when shut off
Yep you like to work
I got a Cub Cadet with the same engine, love these engines but in this particular setup they do suck.
It's a great engine forsure, thanks for watching!
I bet the owner never cleaned out the fuel tank or even changed the in-tank screen. I prefer Techron fuel cleaner.
One guy laughed at me and said that ain't gonna fit on there because the pulleys don't line up but that's why to make it fit and work i told em well I'll make it work
He said yeah but on that one the pulleys are sideways then this one its below so I guess he doesn't know how to make things work when they don't fit
Nice tractor
And nice job 👍
Thank you! And yes, it's in excellent condition, very well taken care of!
I have a older twin and its gonna go on the 1967 John deere cause i need to eliminate some junk from the yard and clear up some space
Its Kohler engine not doing good because of the lack of parts i need I'm changing it out and store it in the shed it runs but is old and lacking those old parts
The other mower has a transmission problem but a good engine so I'll make it fit and work then find new belts then I can play on that old thing kinda don't like the puke green so might repaint it some other color
My problem will be the hood is not gonna shut with the new old engine put on i can see it by eye view that it won't because the replacement engine i could cut the hood but they don't make 1967 hoods any more i gotta be careful when modifying that one
Nice!!
Get rid of stock carburetor buy to Mikuni carburetors put those on along with two individual straight pipes and you have a badass tractor
Lot of money maybe for a show tractor but if this guy wants to mow his yard his neighbors would probably be pissed I wouldn’t I like straight pipes
Seems like a poor design on the carb mount.
I wouldn't say it's a poor design, it's just that the rear of the engine on this machine is actually supposed to be the front!
Usually you can remove the hood, take off the red cover, pull the intake manifold and then remove carb.
But due to the way this engine was mounted, this is what we have to do!
I heard uncle Sam's planning on going to 30% ethanol
Hope not lol
Not yet, but they did authorize 15%, for year round use. My 2012 Odyssey can't run on it. Great government logic.