I made 2 sets of jigs. I removed the first jig after 4 hours and began working on the 3rd hole. Gonna dremel the threaded bolts off in the morning and then take it to a body shop for an estimate. You saved me some $$, if you would like to have one of my department patches, please provide an email. Happy Holidays
This method is similar to what i wanted to do with my car except I am going to end up removing the headliner. I did not think about bracing the metal with the pieces of wood though. This will definitely help me out this spring when I attempt to fix the holes. For now I will live with my ugly plugs.
If you are removing the headliner, then you can make my fix method even stronger by using a bigger piece of steel and buffing the underside area where the JB Weld is going to adhere the steel patch to the top.
Bruce, In regards to the roof, I was thinking about using jb weld and leaving the bolt in and securing the nut to the underside of the plate. After curing, I could use a dremel tool and just cut the top of the bolt off leaving it flush with roof. This would eliminate filling the hole w jb weld after removing the bolt. Thanks for all your insight.
If you're using J-B Weld Kwik that's less of a problem just dab it a couple times as it sets up. If you're using regular J-B weld you may have to apply a couple times to the center hole, or you can mix the J-B weld and wait a a little while before you apply. I Always had to do two layers to get it all level.
I wonder how body panel adhesive would work? But this seems like a great way to do this. Welding on the roof you would have to take the interior material too. Look out P71 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor.. Thanks for this..
Right, this is much easier than welding since you can leave the headliner in place. I've never worked with body panel adhesive. Once clamped and set, the J.B. Weld and steel solution is a very strong and permanent fix! :)
Hey Bruce, have you had any issues with the jbweld falling out over time? I just used this method to repair 5 holes in the roof of my 2013 Ford Taurus interceptor, my friend brought up a concern with the roof flexing and breaking the bond between the jb and patch.
No, I haven't. However your friend brings up a good question. I think it is reasonable to assume that some heavy flexing on the roof could break the JB bond. One hint, use thin sheet steel for your repair so that it can flex a little. Don't use steel that is heavier than your body steel, preferably a little thinner than your roof steel. However I think this fix is much stronger than a body puddy fix. The only other alternatives are tac welding which could also use my method to hold the body steel repair plate on the under side of the roof while welding. Of course welding will cause some deforming of the steel around it, which will require more grinding and bondo to smooth out. Another method is using a rivet dimpling tool and attaching the plate with rivets and then bondo, but that would require removing the headliner. Fortunately, under normal use you will not have any extreme weight or pressure placed on your roof. How do your repairs look? :)
Bruce Gleim my repairs look pretty good, I just filled the left over holes from the screws this morning, when that sets I’m going to sand it down, my friend who owns a body shop is going to smooth it out with some fill and paint the entire roof, hope it turns out good!! I used some thicker steel unfortunately haha, the repair seems really solid though, hope it holds!
It should work well for you. Slight flexing from normal driving has not caused any problems with the ones I have fixed this way. (Of course if someone jumps on your roof this patch would be the least of your concern.) I'm sure the steel you used will be ok, however a think steel plate would be difficult to work with. Too thin may not work if it bends upward around the screw when you use the clamp system demonstrated in the video.
![Squad car: Welding up antenna holes [4K] Ep32](/img/n.gif)
Bruce, finished 2 out of 3 roof holes today. JB Weld Quick sets up much faster than I thought, but so far, so good. Thanks.
Yes J-B weld Kwik sits up fast, but I would leave the clamps on as long as you can just to make sure.
I made 2 sets of jigs. I removed the first jig after 4 hours and began working on the 3rd hole. Gonna dremel the threaded bolts off in the morning and then take it to a body shop for an estimate. You saved me some $$, if you would like to have one of my department patches, please provide an email. Happy Holidays
Definitely wouldn't have Used a screwdriver but great overall. Great top tip to use when applied at warm temperatures. I'll subscribe!
nice video im gonna try the same sorta method but with magnets to brace it instead hopefully works as well ty for the idea.
Just did this and it worked. I used the
quick setting JB weld.
that's an interesting method... I'll have to try it, because I've been filling with bondo and over time it starts to show a line around the repair.
Right, bondo has it's place, but filling a large void is not one of them! :)
I like that. good technique
This method is similar to what i wanted to do with my car except I am going to end up removing the headliner. I did not think about bracing the metal with the pieces of wood though. This will definitely help me out this spring when I attempt to fix the holes. For now I will live with my ugly plugs.
If you are removing the headliner, then you can make my fix method even stronger by using a bigger piece of steel and buffing the underside area where the JB Weld is going to adhere the steel patch to the top.
Bruce, In regards to the roof, I was thinking about using jb weld and leaving the bolt in and securing the nut to the underside of the plate. After curing, I could use a dremel tool and just cut the top of the bolt off leaving it flush with roof. This would eliminate filling the hole w jb weld after removing the bolt. Thanks for all your insight.
Texas, Sounds good. Let me know how that works. Avoid getting JB Weld on the threads below the nut.
I learn something good today 👍👍👍
Why not use self tapping screws instead of the bolt and nut combo? They will hold the plate but can be removed later without the need for a nut.
Good suggestion! I haven't tried it but I think it would work. As long as you don't lose the repair piece of sheet metal down into the roof headliner.
Pure genius
great video !!
Thanks Jose!
Thanks Jose, good luck with your project! :)
Hi does anyone know how JB Wells work on Aluminum body panels..
But how do you keep the JB from seeping through the bolt hole in a roof application where you don’t have underside access?
If you're using J-B Weld Kwik that's less of a problem just dab it a couple times as it sets up. If you're using regular J-B weld you may have to apply a couple times to the center hole, or you can mix the J-B weld and wait a a little while before you apply. I Always had to do two layers to get it all level.
I wonder how body panel adhesive would work? But this seems like a great way to do this. Welding on the roof you would have to take the interior material too.
Look out P71 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor.. Thanks for this..
Right, this is much easier than welding since you can leave the headliner in place. I've never worked with body panel adhesive. Once clamped and set, the J.B. Weld and steel solution is a very strong and permanent fix! :)
Hey Bruce, have you had any issues with the jbweld falling out over time? I just used this method to repair 5 holes in the roof of my 2013 Ford Taurus interceptor, my friend brought up a concern with the roof flexing and breaking the bond between the jb and patch.
No, I haven't. However your friend brings up a good question. I think it is reasonable to assume that some heavy flexing on the roof could break the JB bond. One hint, use thin sheet steel for your repair so that it can flex a little. Don't use steel that is heavier than your body steel, preferably a little thinner than your roof steel. However I think this fix is much stronger than a body puddy fix. The only other alternatives are tac welding which could also use my method to hold the body steel repair plate on the under side of the roof while welding. Of course welding will cause some deforming of the steel around it, which will require more grinding and bondo to smooth out. Another method is using a rivet dimpling tool and attaching the plate with rivets and then bondo, but that would require removing the headliner. Fortunately, under normal use you will not have any extreme weight or pressure placed on your roof. How do your repairs look? :)
Bruce Gleim my repairs look pretty good, I just filled the left over holes from the screws this morning, when that sets I’m going to sand it down, my friend who owns a body shop is going to smooth it out with some fill and paint the entire roof, hope it turns out good!! I used some thicker steel unfortunately haha, the repair seems really solid though, hope it holds!
It should work well for you. Slight flexing from normal driving has not caused any problems with the ones I have fixed this way. (Of course if someone jumps on your roof this patch would be the least of your concern.) I'm sure the steel you used will be ok, however a think steel plate would be difficult to work with. Too thin may not work if it bends upward around the screw when you use the clamp system demonstrated in the video.