wow man did you know that u r the only one help me returned shine to my car with almost no money 😍😍😍and much more i safe about 3 days at workshop to done what i done in 3 hours wow and all with very comfortable easy todo it my self thanx very much from now on iam ur loyal follower and looking to learn more from you please🤗🤗🤗
Awesome! Thanks so much for the kind word in your comment. Feels great to get conformation that the video's are helping viewers get it done and save money.
I'm going to repair a plastic bumper cover that I need to remove to fix a hole. Once I get it smoothed out and primed, I may do this method with the bumper cover off the car. Thanks for this video. It was super helpful!
a bit late but for anyone who watches this, proper technique and good repair, but please please please wear a respirator when using the clear coat, that stuff is pretty nasty for your lungs.
I’ve been doing ok with body and paint repair and in the years I’ve been doing it I’ve never had paint mixed at any retail auto store normally it’s duplicolor or nothing that’s amazing
Excellent video !!!!! I’m going to reference your videos at work as a professional training video . You need to seriously understand how well your skill is valued and your explanation is simple .
Just getting ready to fix a scratch on the right side cargo door of my 2013 E 250 van. Found Duplicolor and Spraymax clear at local parts paint store. Thanks for the update and info. Dan C St Charles, Mo
Great tape but I was told to always let the bass co cure for a couple of days since it's a single stage and doesn't always dry that. If you put the 2 part clear on 2 soon it'll eventually bubble because a chemicals haven't come out of the base coat yet...
If your clearing over single stage it's a bit different. I wouldn't let it sit for days that's too long but single stage you could let sit for about 45min before clearcoat.
Very informative. Much appreciated. One thing I have learned though from using aerosol cans for the past 40 years is start the spraying off the targeted area and end spraying off the targeted area. Especially if you're using metallic. Gives it a more even coat. At least in my experiences anyway. Not saying its right or wrong, its just that works best for me.
Thank you for this! I’ve got 2- 18 year old cars that need some body work and paint to improve how they look. It’s my winter project here in Florida. Appreciate all the good tips!
It's amazing what you can do with spray bombs these days. I thought for sure you were going to get a run out of that as well, I was super surprised that you didn't, these spraybombs are pretty dern impressive. I haven't spray painted in a while so basically just from watching this video I've decide to paint my son in laws truck rear wheel arch's with spray bombs.
Morning brother man, before even opening the YT app I thought to myself hmmm perhaps he released spraying with can video today ?! What do ya know because you actually did !!! Your a man of your word ! I gotta say that came out looking as if a bodyshop did it ! Great work and explaining as always teach, I can’t wait to tackle my quarter panel !!!! Godbless you for these videos
I'm a keyboard nut but I have an '87 GMC S15 that is starting to bust rust. This was a great confidence booster. I recognize the need for a good foundational cleaning, proper surface prep, and keeping the can moving. Please go back to the original repair description and link this video. TY
Great video. Just what I needed. I have a 2000 Silverado with clear coat issues, and you did a great job of explaining each step. I'm definitely doing this.
Great video! We have a 2006 RAV4 that has one area where the paint is bubbling (and coming off) plus some areas that need minor repair (dings from parking garages, etc). There are only 120,000 miles on the car and it runs great, but paying for a professional paint job on a 17-year-old car doesn't make sense to us. She's been good to us, but seriously, how much paint does a woman need! :) We'll give your instructions a try. If it works for amateurs like us, then you're a hero.
I had 3/4 of a can of paint left so I imagine you could do paint 4-5 spots the size of mine with one can of paint. As for the clear I would figure about one can of clear for a med size panel like this.
@@GarageNoise I feel like I'm going to seem stupid asking this and I am asking this genuinely but I'm just curious as to why you sanded the whole panel back when it looks like you only painted the back wheel arch area. Was it just that you didn't sand enough paint off to need to respray it and thus could just go back over it with the clearcoat?
I've got a 6-inch square on my door I need to repaint & instructions like this are exactly the thing I need to help me make sure I get it as perfect as possible, thanks much.
great video and a very great to to me, a total beginner who's never done this before. The only worry I have is that you don't say 1) How long your leave the paint coat to dry before applying the clear. 2) I'm unclear what, if anything, I'm supposed to do on the paint job before applying the clear? Just a tack cloth and the isopropal? Anyhoo, you have given me the confidence to now try this job after two weeks of buying the paint and clear, but lacking the courage to actually try it. Now, after watching your video, I can't for tomorrow to get going on it and really get it done! Any faults will be my fault and not yours because you showed how to do it so well! Best wishes and thanks again from the UK. Al.
Awesome! 15 minutes before applying clear depending on temp. You may tack base before clear and insect for any dust. If you do find dust lightly sand with a fine sand paper between 600- 2000 grit apply another coat of base at clear. Watch some more of my painting video's I go over all this. Appreciate your comment and support!
Many thanks for giving me the courage to try it! Saved me some £500 the body shop quoted! Came out pretty well, only big mistake was allowing the clear to drip in 3 places! I think sand back and spray clear again might cure that. Funny story for you: Have no garage or shelter, had to do it in the street. Underestimated power of the wind (only about 10mph). Got into car and then noticed the wind had blown the clear coat, covering all the windshield! Couldn't see a thing! Frantic panic to grab some compound and get it off before the sun baked it hard! You've never seen a man of 74 move so quick! Best wishes and thanks again. Al. @@GarageNoise
Thank you for such a great video. Yesterday, I did the same thing with my Honda Accord. I was delighted with the results I achieved with the color-based spray, but I went and used the same clear coat you used in your video. I got cloudy, - dull results, and I don't know why or how to fix it and avoid it happening again.
That paint was fine too begin with! I painted my teen son's 95 Impreza with rattle cans. From forest green to navy blue. I used Rust-Oleum brand enamel. I do not buy the spray cans with the standard caps they are often junk, and on big projects will cramp your finger faster too. I did the whole job in phases, in 7 days start to finish, under an open carport. 1 day later, after a decent dry time, the Colorado wind gusts picked up for days. I was very blessed! Close call! My recipe was: sand with 320, then 600, clean with soap/water, mask/cover, clean with lighter fluid twice, tac cloth, 2 coats black primer, 3 coats color, 3 coats clear...each 10 to 12 minutes apart. All paint has to applied within 90 minutes from start, upon a flashed off coat. 2 years later and still good. I don't even think he's waxed it yet. 😅 Oh, i didn't sand between any coats, obviously. It didn't look perfect but good enough for a teen ride.
Great job! I will be following your steps to paint my yellow 65 Mustang on a lower door panel after a rust repair. Thanks! And, I have a new O'Reilly's 3 blocks from my home so I will check to see if they mix paint. I already have the color and clear mixed by a local automotive paint supplier.
Thank you for sharing the knowledge I was watching your painting with the clear coat I did learn a lot and I don't know nothing about painting but on cars anyways but it was great thank you for sharing I'm grateful for it man
Well I have a motorcycle with some light damage after watching this I might sand the whole tank and paint the top of the tank would make it a whole lot easier to fix the clear coat on the tank. Thanks Doug C
Man, you have no idea how much this helps me A TON!!! Never done it before, zero practise or knowledge but I feel confident (thanks to this video)I can do it with common sense lol. But it bugs me not to understand something, that in fact you haven't spray paint the entire area but only sprayed with clear coat after sanding down. So my question is: If I sand it down an area with 800grid and clean it and after apply CC I will get the shine back?. Thx in advance Liked and Subed.
Yes you might need to wet san an polish but you will get the shine back. I have video's that show the process of sanding and polishing clear coat as well.
I used the very same 2K aerosol clear coat on a fender that I redid 3 years ago and I ended up with a bad case of orange peel that took me most of the rest of the day to sand and buff out.
Great video. Didn't know they had these paint options out there. Small suggestion, next time start at the top as you did but do the whole length of the quarter panel and work down. Thanks Again
yes Mr see you are a good one and it is an opportunity for me because I have exactly this problem on my lexus, but right side towards the wheel. keep going because truly mortals like me need help to do well 👍
Man I used to blow off the notion of a mask or much less a respirator. Wrong! The usual Rustoleum enamels are one thing, and even then we should protect ourselves, but lacquers are truly dangerous, and that 2k Clear is very strong, but very good, as I’ve used a ton of it. It polishes out well, and has even passed the gasoline spill test. The Dupli-Color version I tried before failed miserably. This can be done. Mostly prep work is very crucial, well, it’s ALL crucial. But application is the make or break. Environment matters big time too. If it’s too warm the paint will start to dry in the air before it hits the surface. So you get closer, right? Too close and it piles on in such a way that is insidious and deceptive. It might look great, no runs,shiny and wet looking, top notch. But later you will see it settle, and on vertical surfaces it’ll run so subtly you won’t see it till your wet sanding it next week. So not so close then. But it MUST look wet by the third coat. First mist coat is crucial, NOT WET. Let it sit just long enough to be tacky, not dry, but flashed off, where all the solvents have escaped, which is a tough call. Because here’s the kicker. If you wait too long, the next wet coat won’t settle into the mist coat deep enough, won’t stick as well, require that much more product, which then induces the next pitfall. If your can spatters, spits, at ALL, shake it and give it a spray elsewhere to see how it’s doing. If you THINK it’s gonna spit, set it aside for a seldom seen area where you might need more depth, and a spatter can be sanded smooth and dealt with, as opposed to the middle of the side of your drivers door. Worse though, is when everything looks good and you let it cure, only to find cracking or “crazing” in your paint in particular places. That’s where the coat beneath cured JUST enough to form a skin or layer, but hasn’t released ALL of its solvents yet, but then you didn’t catch that nearly impossible to detect issue, so you paint a wet coat, let it flash, and another. An hour or so later you excitedly check out out and horror. Crazing. Like dried mud. The first layer is still shrinking even after the second and third coats go on, but those coats cured themselves and are preventing the bottom coat from curing properly, and when it shrinks, cures, settles, moves, whatever, you see the results in the top coats. Bad news. Start over. Spot painting on top of a spot painted spit is no good. Of the grain beneath isn’t uniform then the color coat won’t be uniform. With the OE paint it’s all old and being done by a machine there isnt much grain to see, other than very uniform orange peel. You’ll see the sanding and paint depth differences if you try to just sand away the crazing, and then recount that. At that, you can really sand it for a few hours, regardless of what the directions say. Sanding uncurled paint is a recipe for disaster and a hundred times the work you envisioned. The clear coat can hide SOME things, but that one spot you think is no biggie, will be. I’d say that once the surface is right, and it’s paint time, that spattering or spitting is the one biggest fear and can ruin your day. Learn how to feel for it, keep the nozzle wiped, and keep your hands and fingers well out of the path of spray. If it’s too cold, it takes too long to dry, hits too wet, runs or sags, and has linger time to catch moths and dust. As hard as you’ll try to keep the area bug free, good luck. If it’s too humid, you’ll get cloudy or foggy spots, where it looks whitish, and that’s absorbed moisture sucked into your drying paint, as a sponge to moisture, your paint to the same. Try to dry the air with heat or a dehumidifier, and quickly, but not too quickly, as drastic changes in conditions WILL affect the finished product. Maybe very glancing and subtle applications of a heat gun or hair dryer, but don’t get too hot or it will run or shrink, more problems. To dry, it will be dry before it hits the car. Get it wrong, and you’ve got a high-nap suede paint surface. Which can be sanded but then you’ve got to repost the whole section. Running out of paint is another nightmare. It induces mistakes. Nice overlap strokes, leave no line but if you miss don’t go back and fill it in until it flashes just a hair or it will sag. The right pace of movement, careful attention to exactly what you are doing, real concentration, it all matters. A gun gives you a more uniform supply, a better pattern, more overall control of the paint itself, and repeatable results. But a pain to keep track of mixes, proportions, the mess, the supplies, the compressor going off when you’ve heard enough, and the cleaning of the gun, nozzles and tips,cfm rates, drier, the whole shooting match. To me, it’s still a toss up. I got incredible results on my Magnum in Brilliant Black, sometimes I can’t believe I painted that whole quarter panel, it looks so good. But my moms old Mercedes in simple Black is killing me. Where I swear a gun would make so much better. But I hate needing a big compressor and the whole pile of accessories needed. But, it may be time.
I’m about to try and touch up on my car where it has scratches from who owned it previously, I have one spray can of primer and another spray can of silver paint to match my car and reading this just blew my head off, hopefully my little DIY job goes ok lol
Great video - thanks! What type of paint was the base coat you used under the 2K clear coat? Urethane? Acrylic? Also, can I use a can of blending thinners to blend the edges of the 2K clear coat? Thanks.
Fantastic video! I rubbed paint off the side of my Mustang in the same area as your repair in the video. It didn't go down to metal, so I have a great ideat of how to go about this blending repair. Thank you!
Great video! Very helpful. A couple of quick questions: How many cans of SprayMax Clear did you use? And do you use an IR lamp to flash between each coat? Thank you!
Awesome DIY tutorial,!! I have to paint two doors on the wife's Toyota Rav 4, how many cans of paint do you think I would need? How many did that job take? Thanks!!!!
Very nice, I had my hood repainted by my mechanic, he paints all his cars as a hobby. He charged me a 100.00 and did a great job but I really think he needed to do 1 more coat of clearcote. I think I am going to do it myself after seeing the job you did. I have waxed it for the 1st time about a month ago, of course I let the paint cure for about 6 months. Do you think I should wet sand it after I get the wax off 1st?
Awesome video. This is exactly what I need for a repair on my motorcycle. I have a question similar to @79hella. Why did you decide not to do a final 1000 grit or greater sanding on the color coat before applying the clear? Thanks
You don't want to sand the color coat before clear. The only time you might do that if you have trash in the basecoat you need to remove but then you must apply an additional coat of base. Appreciate the comment and support brother!
This is great. biggest question is where to get matching paint for an older car. (2012 Nissan). Also, did you wet sand and polish the repair? Thanks for the great video.
I'm not sold on the 2K clear aerosols - they're just a bit of a pita compared to painting the base with an aerosol then using a gun for the clear. You get a better finish faster using a gun for the clear - with less effort.
Oh yeah definitely better with a gun. Im just impressed with the appearance of 2k Aerosol clear. A good option for those without a compressor or gun. Appreciate the support!
Hi, thank you for very detailed video. I am planning to do this using your steps. Could you please explain to me the steps for buffing and polishing after painting to remove the orange peel? I have compound and polish I just would like some guidance. Thank you and big like
Nice job! What psi and how many turns out on the fluid for the spray cans? Lol. Love the channel- keep up the great videos. Looking forward to the clear coat reviews.
Thank you so much, awesome video and a project that is exactly what I’m looking to do. One quick question, You did not sand the new paint over the repair before the clearcoat, correct? Thank you
No you don't need to sand the newly applied paint. It will have a chemical bond with the clear. Appreciate the question and support! Good luck on your project.
You got lucky finding touch up paint that matches or atleast lose enough to blend. I’m having problems finding an Acura silver that comes near to the paint code. Everyone has it as a way darker paint than it really is.
I do some repair work at home, I have a verity of paint guns mostly cheap ones but if you can paint the best guns can make a difference but you can get a nice job as long as you can get the best out of what your working with. The weld type stud gun with slide hammer on it how do you or where can you purchase one, I have a stud gun but that type can save you some time. And your wipe down you use were can you get that or can you make that yourself ?
I think your referring to the g90e Here is the link amzn.to/3IgQ5CR I use isopropyl alcohol to wipe down or wax and Grease remover here is a link amzn.to/3G56yaI hope this help appreciate the support!
Nice video, I've done alot if this type of repair on my cars, after the finish coat of clear once it's had time to harden/properly I'd normally wet sand, clean and then Polish and wax , did you do the same after ? Just curious
When buffing out did you use 1500 , 2500 wetland paper? Then compound and polish? I bought a second bumper that was banged up and used your technique. Cleared with 2k. Now gotta see how it polishes out! Thanks for all the great advice brother!
Nice video. Wish I stumbled across it sooner. This past weekend I did a similar project with peeling clear coat on a daily project car I’m trying to make look better with spray cans. I sanded all with 320, 600, then 800 until I saw primer and reprimed, cleaned and all. Unfortunately I ran out of base cans and clear and the color looks off as a result. I just ordered more cans and extra for good measure. My question is since I recently primed the panels I want to target and it has a slim base layer and clear, do you think I can sand down the clear coat and add more base from here and then clear again?
@@GarageNoise thanks so much. Weather ruined my plans this weekend since I don’t have space in my garage to do this. Next week I will try this and order more paint and 2k clear to be sure. However the weather will get colder especially at night. I still want to target this, but how long do you think it would take for the paint to dry? Should I wait 24 hours after I apply the base prior to applying clear?
Do you have to sand the treated area after the final clear coat is put on?? If yes can you explain the best method for that?? I have ZERO experience painting or wet sanding but I’d like to clean up a farm truck we have..
You don't necessarily have to, but if you want to remove imperfections and get a glass like finish you will want to. Here's a couple videos I made explaining the process. ua-cam.com/video/6iMAoxo_BT4/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/PnJrd5eadD4/v-deo.html
I wish I could super like this! Amazing quality and amazing inspiration honestly! I’m gonna email you some pics of the project Im about to do. I’m spraying the roof and hood on my 94 regular cab f150. It’s Calypso green and the clear is just shot on it from setting in sun all these years. I had a local paint supply shop put the OEM color in 4 aerosol cans and I have spray Max 2k clear to use too.
Wow this is amazing estimation point! I love that you're using that type of paint as well! I have been trying to find a Dupli-Color for my car but they never have enough cans in stock, so I bought this brand, great to see how good it comes out! So my question is I'm doing an area in Black, would I want to use semi-gloss or gloss paint with the clear coat?
Watched a few of your videos and I’m really impressed and I learned a ton. Really great content sir but I have a stupid question. How did you get O’Reilly to match that paint for you. I mean it looks spot on on camera.
Awesome! Great to hear the content is working. In some store Oreillys mixes paint. Not all store yet they use nason which is a cost effective but good paint.
@@GarageNoise I got that part how did they get exactly the color to match was the question. Did you drive the car there did you get a chip of the paint over to them?
Thanks for the tutorial.. well done. I do have a question though. Why not fix those little dings/dents on the fender you painted? The amount of money and time would not have added much work and the outcome would have been even better. Just curious, that's all. Thanks again for the video.
Great video, I’m about to start some body work on a 2011 Ford Escape that’s seen many Canadian winters, so I appreciate the tips on shooting that clear coat
On a paint run take a pc of masking tape and turn it inside out were the sticky side is out and tap the paint run it will remove the paint run every time. I, do a lot of auto body and paint work myself
Super Great Video! One dumb question on initial sanding to a dull finish. Do you try to sand the old clear coat down to the base coat or do you just clear coat over a sanded clear coat? I may try so paint some damaged areas on my 20 year old Motorhome.
This looks like a good instruction video. Im looking for a video to repair a small chipped paint spot on the bumper of a Honda. The black shows through and I just want to hide it better.
Going to check out Upol can paint at O'Reillys. I bought spray gun paint but just need to do same area on Optima but its a 3 stage mica white pearl. Afraid it wont be a match.
So may have stuffed up on my clear coat application as I was trying not to get any paint runs. I had faster movements than you, but multiple coats. Is the surface supposed to feel smooth after the application of clearcoat?
I get it at my local paint supplier. I'm sure not all paint suppliers will carry it, but mine does. You can also find it at O'reilly's. Some O'reilly's not all O'reilly's, but some O'reilly's that do paint. They could help you out with that, I believe.
This has given me the confidence to tackle my project soon. Many thanks.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes.
I really like how you go over the steps from cleaning to sanding the clear coat and primer. I'm learning from you!
wow man did you know that u r the only one help me returned shine to my car with almost no money 😍😍😍and much more i safe about 3 days at workshop to done what i done in 3 hours wow and all with very comfortable easy todo it my self thanx very much from now on iam ur loyal follower and looking to learn more from you please🤗🤗🤗
Awesome! Thanks so much for the kind word in your comment. Feels great to get conformation that the video's are helping viewers get it done and save money.
I'm going to repair a plastic bumper cover that I need to remove to fix a hole. Once I get it smoothed out and primed, I may do this method with the bumper cover off the car. Thanks for this video. It was super helpful!
Awesome! Hope it goes well.
I just painted a passenger side rear view mirror with TouchUpDirect spray can and clear coat and it looks awesome.
👍
a bit late but for anyone who watches this, proper technique and good repair, but please please please wear a respirator when using the clear coat, that stuff is pretty nasty for your lungs.
L
IM glad I read this
2nd coat he's wearing one 😂
Would an n95 be good enough?
@@paulawojcik8301No! You need a proper cartridge respirator that dieters isotopes. Very deadly stuff in 2k clear and people aren’t even aware.
I’ve been doing ok with body and paint repair and in the years I’ve been doing it I’ve never had paint mixed at any retail auto store normally it’s duplicolor or nothing that’s amazing
👍The color was a great match as well.
Excellent video !!!!! I’m going to reference your videos at work as a professional training video . You need to seriously understand how well your skill is valued and your explanation is simple .
Thank's so much for the kind comment. Good to know the content is being appreciated and easy to understand. Thank you for taking the time to comment!
I've used the SprayMax clear (and color coats as well) and had very good results.
👍
Where did you buy it from?
Just getting ready to fix a scratch on the right side cargo door of my 2013 E 250 van. Found Duplicolor and Spraymax clear at local parts paint store. Thanks for the update and info.
Dan C
St Charles, Mo
This is what I wanted to see and you showed it. Thank you for sharing this material.😊
Thanks much! These are the exact steps I've been following. Today...application of the aerosol clear coat. Wish me luck!
You can do it!
Ive used aerosols many times but never seen any perform as good as those, the fan and pressure is really good.
These are some of the best . Would highly recommend.
I have the exact same job needed to be done on both sides on my Focus st. this video made that job look less scary to do in my garage. great video!
Beware of over spray. It'll get everywhere.
@@Art_911 It sure did , managed to get it polished away thankfully.
Not me looking to do this on both sides of my FoST as well😂
Great tape but I was told to always let the bass co cure for a couple of days since it's a single stage and doesn't always dry that. If you put the 2 part clear on 2 soon it'll eventually bubble because a chemicals haven't come out of the base coat yet...
If your clearing over single stage it's a bit different. I wouldn't let it sit for days that's too long but single stage you could let sit for about 45min before clearcoat.
Very informative.
Much appreciated.
One thing I have learned though from using aerosol cans for the past 40 years is start the spraying off the targeted area and end spraying off the targeted area. Especially if you're using metallic. Gives it a more even coat. At least in my experiences anyway.
Not saying its right or wrong, its just that works best for me.
Really useful information for the diy guys, gives us the courage we need- thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this! I’ve got 2- 18 year old cars that need some body work and paint to improve how they look. It’s my winter project here in Florida. Appreciate all the good tips!
It's amazing what you can do with spray bombs these days. I thought for sure you were going to get a run out of that as well, I was super surprised that you didn't, these spraybombs are pretty dern impressive. I haven't spray painted in a while so basically just from watching this video I've decide to paint my son in laws truck rear wheel arch's with spray bombs.
It really is! It can be done! That clear held up well too after a year it still look great! Appreciate the comment and support!
Thank you. I bought a project truck knowing I'd get to learn some new things. You've answered some questions and really helped boost my confidence.
Morning brother man, before even opening the YT app I thought to myself hmmm perhaps he released spraying with can video today ?! What do ya know because you actually did !!! Your a man of your word ! I gotta say that came out looking as if a bodyshop did it ! Great work and explaining as always teach, I can’t wait to tackle my quarter panel !!!! Godbless you for these videos
Appreciate it! Thank's so much for supporting the channel. Comments like this keep me motivated.
@@GarageNoise you deserve em all Chris!
I'm a keyboard nut but I have an '87 GMC S15 that is starting to bust rust. This was a great confidence booster. I recognize the need for a good foundational cleaning, proper surface prep, and keeping the can moving. Please go back to the original repair description and link this video. TY
Thanks for the great tips. I'm considering doing a modest repair and paint on my Nissan's front fender and your tips make it look feasible.
Absolutely! You can do it! Appreciate the comment and support!
Great video. Just what I needed. I have a 2000 Silverado with clear coat issues, and you did a great job of explaining each step. I'm definitely doing this.
Great video! We have a 2006 RAV4 that has one area where the paint is bubbling (and coming off) plus some areas that need minor repair (dings from parking garages, etc). There are only 120,000 miles on the car and it runs great, but paying for a professional paint job on a 17-year-old car doesn't make sense to us. She's been good to us, but seriously, how much paint does a woman need! :) We'll give your instructions a try. If it works for amateurs like us, then you're a hero.
I had 3/4 of a can of paint left so I imagine you could do paint 4-5 spots the size of mine with one can of paint. As for the clear I would figure about one can of clear for a med size panel like this.
@@GarageNoise I feel like I'm going to seem stupid asking this and I am asking this genuinely but I'm just curious as to why you sanded the whole panel back when it looks like you only painted the back wheel arch area. Was it just that you didn't sand enough paint off to need to respray it and thus could just go back over it with the clearcoat?
I've got a 6-inch square on my door I need to repaint & instructions like this are exactly the thing I need to help me make sure I get it as perfect as possible, thanks much.
great video and a very great to to me, a total beginner who's never done this before. The only worry I have is that you don't say 1) How long your leave the paint coat to dry before applying the clear. 2) I'm unclear what, if anything, I'm supposed to do on the paint job before applying the clear? Just a tack cloth and the isopropal? Anyhoo, you have given me the confidence to now try this job after two weeks of buying the paint and clear, but lacking the courage to actually try it. Now, after watching your video, I can't for tomorrow to get going on it and really get it done! Any faults will be my fault and not yours because you showed how to do it so well! Best wishes and thanks again from the UK. Al.
Awesome! 15 minutes before applying clear depending on temp. You may tack base before clear and insect for any dust. If you do find dust lightly sand with a fine sand paper between 600- 2000 grit apply another coat of base at clear. Watch some more of my painting video's I go over all this. Appreciate your comment and support!
Many thanks for giving me the courage to try it! Saved me some £500 the body shop quoted! Came out pretty well, only big mistake was allowing the clear to drip in 3 places! I think sand back and spray clear again might cure that. Funny story for you: Have no garage or shelter, had to do it in the street. Underestimated power of the wind (only about 10mph). Got into car and then noticed the wind had blown the clear coat, covering all the windshield! Couldn't see a thing! Frantic panic to grab some compound and get it off before the sun baked it hard! You've never seen a man of 74 move so quick! Best wishes and thanks again. Al. @@GarageNoise
"It's not that the wind is blowing it's what the wind is blowing!" - Ron White@@jewellguitars
Thank you for such a great video. Yesterday, I did the same thing with my Honda Accord. I was delighted with the results I achieved with the color-based spray, but I went and used the same clear coat you used in your video. I got cloudy, - dull results, and I don't know why or how to fix it and avoid it happening again.
Going to do same on my '07 Toyota Highlander when I get the nerve! Got the paint kit, just need to get inspired, your video helps, thanks.
Glad it helped! Appreciate the comment!
That paint was fine too begin with!
I painted my teen son's 95 Impreza with rattle cans. From forest green to navy blue. I used Rust-Oleum brand enamel. I do not buy the spray cans with the standard caps they are often junk, and on big projects will cramp your finger faster too. I did the whole job in phases, in 7 days start to finish, under an open carport. 1 day later, after a decent dry time, the Colorado wind gusts picked up for days. I was very blessed! Close call!
My recipe was: sand with 320, then 600, clean with soap/water, mask/cover, clean with lighter fluid twice, tac cloth, 2 coats black primer, 3 coats color, 3 coats clear...each 10 to 12 minutes apart. All paint has to applied within 90 minutes from start, upon a flashed off coat. 2 years later and still good. I don't even think he's waxed it yet. 😅
Oh, i didn't sand between any coats, obviously. It didn't look perfect but good enough for a teen ride.
@@thesetruths1404 👍
Impressive result. We’re going to try this on an old vehicle this summer. Thank you
Good luck!
was just what i needed to see to
repair my grand daughters Lexus.
Awesome! Appreciate the comment!
Great job! I will be following your steps to paint my yellow 65 Mustang on a lower door panel after a rust repair. Thanks! And, I have a new O'Reilly's 3 blocks from my home so I will check to see if they mix paint. I already have the color and clear mixed by a local automotive paint supplier.
Awesome let me know the results! Appreciate the comment and support!
I know this is way late but just a little FYI, O'Reilly's just started carrying UPOL 2K in store a few months ago! I was/am stoked!
Great video. I would only add to use lots of light when spraying to keep the edge wet. The head mounted lights work great for low $.
Great tip!
Great vid, Getting ready to fix some crappy Chevy paint on a truck im flipping.. Should be a cake walk thanx to this.
Right on
Thank you for sharing the knowledge I was watching your painting with the clear coat I did learn a lot and I don't know nothing about painting but on cars anyways but it was great thank you for sharing I'm grateful for it man
Well I have a motorcycle with some light damage after watching this I might sand the whole tank and paint the top of the tank would make it a whole lot easier to fix the clear coat on the tank. Thanks Doug C
Man, you have no idea how much this helps me A TON!!! Never done it before, zero practise or knowledge but I feel confident (thanks to this video)I can do it with common sense lol. But it bugs me not to understand something, that in fact you haven't spray paint the entire area but only sprayed with clear coat after sanding down. So my question is: If I sand it down an area with 800grid and clean it and after apply CC I will get the shine back?. Thx in advance Liked and Subed.
Yes you might need to wet san an polish but you will get the shine back. I have video's that show the process of sanding and polishing clear coat as well.
I used the very same 2K aerosol clear coat on a fender that I redid 3 years ago and I ended up with a bad case of orange peel that took me most of the rest of the day to sand and buff out.
This stuff cures hard as nails. That's good for durability tho.
Great video. Didn't know they had these paint options out there. Small suggestion, next time start at the top as you did but do the whole length of the quarter panel and work down. Thanks Again
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Spray bombs have come such a long way. I fix so many cars with this exact process with excellent results like yourself.
I was amazed at how well it turned out. Appreciate the comment and support brother!
spraying paint on clear. great way to ensure the new layers peels
Paint on sanded clear? Not sure what you have an issue with?
well played Canada. very organized performance
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Great video for the enthusiasts, easy to follow step by step . Thanks .
Glad you enjoyed it!
Oh good just got to the second coat and your wearing the respiratory thank God
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yes Mr see you are a good one and it is an opportunity for me because I have exactly this problem on my lexus, but right side towards the wheel. keep going because truly mortals like me need help to do well 👍
Very well crafted work with a straightforward live explanation. Good job done I learned a lot.
Its a great video demonstrated what 2k clear is meant for!! Not headlights 🤪🤔👍Did notice two small dents above the panel above?? 🙄
Oh, there's hail over the whole car. Good for content!🤣
Man I used to blow off the notion of a mask or much less a respirator. Wrong! The usual Rustoleum enamels are one thing, and even then we should protect ourselves, but lacquers are truly dangerous, and that 2k Clear is very strong, but very good, as I’ve used a ton of it. It polishes out well, and has even passed the gasoline spill test. The Dupli-Color version I tried before failed miserably. This can be done. Mostly prep work is very crucial, well, it’s ALL crucial. But application is the make or break. Environment matters big time too. If it’s too warm the paint will start to dry in the air before it hits the surface. So you get closer, right? Too close and it piles on in such a way that is insidious and deceptive. It might look great, no runs,shiny and wet looking, top notch. But later you will see it settle, and on vertical surfaces it’ll run so subtly you won’t see it till your wet sanding it next week. So not so close then. But it MUST look wet by the third coat. First mist coat is crucial, NOT WET. Let it sit just long enough to be tacky, not dry, but flashed off, where all the solvents have escaped, which is a tough call. Because here’s the kicker. If you wait too long, the next wet coat won’t settle into the mist coat deep enough, won’t stick as well, require that much more product, which then induces the next pitfall. If your can spatters, spits, at ALL, shake it and give it a spray elsewhere to see how it’s doing. If you THINK it’s gonna spit, set it aside for a seldom seen area where you might need more depth, and a spatter can be sanded smooth and dealt with, as opposed to the middle of the side of your drivers door. Worse though, is when everything looks good and you let it cure, only to find cracking or “crazing” in your paint in particular places. That’s where the coat beneath cured JUST enough to form a skin or layer, but hasn’t released ALL of its solvents yet, but then you didn’t catch that nearly impossible to detect issue, so you paint a wet coat, let it flash, and another. An hour or so later you excitedly check out out and horror. Crazing. Like dried mud. The first layer is still shrinking even after the second and third coats go on, but those coats cured themselves and are preventing the bottom coat from curing properly, and when it shrinks, cures, settles, moves, whatever, you see the results in the top coats. Bad news. Start over. Spot painting on top of a spot painted spit is no good. Of the grain beneath isn’t uniform then the color coat won’t be uniform. With the OE paint it’s all old and being done by a machine there isnt much grain to see, other than very uniform orange peel. You’ll see the sanding and paint depth differences if you try to just sand away the crazing, and then recount that. At that, you can really sand it for a few hours, regardless of what the directions say. Sanding uncurled paint is a recipe for disaster and a hundred times the work you envisioned. The clear coat can hide SOME things, but that one spot you think is no biggie, will be. I’d say that once the surface is right, and it’s paint time, that spattering or spitting is the one biggest fear and can ruin your day. Learn how to feel for it, keep the nozzle wiped, and keep your hands and fingers well out of the path of spray. If it’s too cold, it takes too long to dry, hits too wet, runs or sags, and has linger time to catch moths and dust. As hard as you’ll try to keep the area bug free, good luck. If it’s too humid, you’ll get cloudy or foggy spots, where it looks whitish, and that’s absorbed moisture sucked into your drying paint, as a sponge to moisture, your paint to the same. Try to dry the air with heat or a dehumidifier, and quickly, but not too quickly, as drastic changes in conditions WILL affect the finished product. Maybe very glancing and subtle applications of a heat gun or hair dryer, but don’t get too hot or it will run or shrink, more problems. To dry, it will be dry before it hits the car. Get it wrong, and you’ve got a high-nap suede paint surface. Which can be sanded but then you’ve got to repost the whole section. Running out of paint is another nightmare. It induces mistakes. Nice overlap strokes, leave no line but if you miss don’t go back and fill it in until it flashes just a hair or it will sag. The right pace of movement, careful attention to exactly what you are doing, real concentration, it all matters. A gun gives you a more uniform supply, a better pattern, more overall control of the paint itself, and repeatable results. But a pain to keep track of mixes, proportions, the mess, the supplies, the compressor going off when you’ve heard enough, and the cleaning of the gun, nozzles and tips,cfm rates, drier, the whole shooting match. To me, it’s still a toss up. I got incredible results on my Magnum in Brilliant Black, sometimes I can’t believe I painted that whole quarter panel, it looks so good. But my moms old Mercedes in simple Black is killing me. Where I swear a gun would make so much better. But I hate needing a big compressor and the whole pile of accessories needed. But, it may be time.
I appreciate the comment and support!
I’m about to try and touch up on my car where it has scratches from who owned it previously, I have one spray can of primer and another spray can of silver paint to match my car and reading this just blew my head off, hopefully my little DIY job goes ok lol
What would be the ideal temperature to apply the clear coat please?
@@guitariste47. The can of clear should have the information, but 70-80 degrees is probably the sweet spot.
Top job mate. I have been doing PDR and paint repair for almost 30 years for the car dealerships, they really like that I can fix it in one day.
Great video - thanks! What type of paint was the base coat you used under the 2K clear coat? Urethane? Acrylic? Also, can I use a can of blending thinners to blend the edges of the 2K clear coat? Thanks.
Nason xl a urethane enamel and yes you can
Fantastic video! I rubbed paint off the side of my Mustang in the same area as your repair in the video. It didn't go down to metal, so I have a great ideat of how to go about this blending repair. Thank you!
Awesome! Happy to help, appreciate the comment and good luck with it!
Thanks for the video. And thank you for wearing a respirator.
You bet
Great video! Very helpful. A couple of quick questions: How many cans of SprayMax Clear did you use? And do you use an IR lamp to flash between each coat? Thank you!
Only one can of clear. It did three coats. You don't need a IR lamp with this. It dries quick and hard.
Awesome DIY tutorial,!! I have to paint two doors on the wife's Toyota Rav 4, how many cans of paint do you think I would need? How many did that job take? Thanks!!!!
Very nice, I had my hood repainted by my mechanic, he paints all his cars as a hobby. He charged me a 100.00 and did a great job but I really think he needed to do 1 more coat of clearcote. I think I am going to do it myself after seeing the job you did. I have waxed it for the 1st time about a month ago, of course I let the paint cure for about 6 months. Do you think I should wet sand it after I get the wax off
1st?
Loved it. Great job 👏🏻. Thanks 🙏🏼
Awesome video. This is exactly what I need for a repair on my motorcycle. I have a question similar to @79hella. Why did you decide not to do a final 1000 grit or greater sanding on the color coat before applying the clear? Thanks
You don't want to sand the color coat before clear. The only time you might do that if you have trash in the basecoat you need to remove but then you must apply an additional coat of base. Appreciate the comment and support brother!
What kind of filters did you use? After I used this clear coat product my throat was killing me. Thanks!
3m paint respirator
Awesome thanks noise, my wife has a chrysler 300 with some scuff marks im going to challenge them lol, thank you so much subscribed for life 😊
That's what it all about! You got this brother, appreciate the support!
This is great. biggest question is where to get matching paint for an older car. (2012 Nissan). Also, did you wet sand and polish the repair? Thanks for the great video.
Another great job impressed with the aerosol paint and clear 👍👍
I was too! Appreciate the support
The front bumper of my Chrysler 300 has taken a beating and now I wanna try this to see if it will work for me!
good tips very helpfull. My project is only about a 3 inch surface scratch that went to the primer that Ill be spraying over.
Great instructional video. Very easy to follow and quite impressive. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Very well done! The feathering and attention to the small details makes all the difference, great job at explaining it all!
I'm not sold on the 2K clear aerosols - they're just a bit of a pita compared to painting the base with an aerosol then using a gun for the clear. You get a better finish faster using a gun for the clear - with less effort.
Oh yeah definitely better with a gun. Im just impressed with the appearance of 2k Aerosol clear. A good option for those without a compressor or gun. Appreciate the support!
Awesome video and thank you. Will be using this method to clean up spots on a dodge Cummins I’ve got.
Awesome!
Hi, thank you for very detailed video. I am planning to do this using your steps. Could you please explain to me the steps for buffing and polishing after painting to remove the orange peel? I have compound and polish I just would like some guidance. Thank you and big like
Check out this video
ua-cam.com/video/RQaOQkH-duc/v-deo.html
Nice job! What psi and how many turns out on the fluid for the spray cans? Lol.
Love the channel- keep up the great videos. Looking forward to the clear coat reviews.
Wide open brother! Thank's for the support!
Thanks, hope my repair comes out half as good as yours.
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I'm actually surprised just how well that looks information Point congratulations good job
Thank you I’m getting ready to do this to my daughter car I wasn’t sure about blending now I have a clue
Glad I could help
Thank you so much, awesome video and a project that is exactly what I’m looking to do. One quick question, You did not sand the new paint over the repair before the clearcoat, correct? Thank you
No you don't need to sand the newly applied paint. It will have a chemical bond with the clear. Appreciate the question and support! Good luck on your project.
You got lucky finding touch up paint that matches or atleast lose enough to blend. I’m having problems finding an Acura silver that comes near to the paint code. Everyone has it as a way darker paint than it really is.
Yeah ,I was shocked it matched so well.
I do some repair work at home, I have a verity of paint guns mostly cheap ones but if you can paint the best guns can make a difference but you can get a nice job as long as you can get the best out of what your working with. The weld type stud gun with slide hammer on it how do you or where can you purchase one, I have a stud gun but that type can save you some time. And your wipe down you use were can you get that or can you make that yourself ?
I think your referring to the g90e
Here is the link
amzn.to/3IgQ5CR
I use isopropyl alcohol to wipe down or wax and Grease remover here is a link amzn.to/3G56yaI hope this help appreciate the support!
Nice video, I've done alot if this type of repair on my cars, after the finish coat of clear once it's had time to harden/properly I'd normally wet sand, clean and then Polish and wax , did you do the same after ? Just curious
Most of the time yes, always seam to need to cut and buff at least a bit.
@@GarageNoise yeah, I find it gets rid of any orange peel affect and a really nice finish
When buffing out did you use 1500 , 2500 wetland paper? Then compound and polish? I bought a second bumper that was banged up and used your technique. Cleared with 2k. Now gotta see how it polishes out! Thanks for all the great advice brother!
I didn't buff this one but if need to I would use 2000 then 3000 then buff . 2000 cuts a bit slower but buffs much easier. Appreciate the support!
Did you only use one can of base coat and one can of clear? If so you got some great coverage for the amount of paint used
I didn't even use a full can of either. I had a lot left over.
Nice video. Wish I stumbled across it sooner. This past weekend I did a similar project with peeling clear coat on a daily project car I’m trying to make look better with spray cans. I sanded all with 320, 600, then 800 until I saw primer and reprimed, cleaned and all. Unfortunately I ran out of base cans and clear and the color looks off as a result. I just ordered more cans and extra for good measure.
My question is since I recently primed the panels I want to target and it has a slim base layer and clear, do you think I can sand down the clear coat and add more base from here and then clear again?
Sure, just sand with 600-800 base and clear
@@GarageNoise thanks so much. Weather ruined my plans this weekend since I don’t have space in my garage to do this. Next week I will try this and order more paint and 2k clear to be sure. However the weather will get colder especially at night. I still want to target this, but how long do you think it would take for the paint to dry? Should I wait 24 hours after I apply the base prior to applying clear?
Do you have to sand the treated area after the final clear coat is put on?? If yes can you explain the best method for that?? I have ZERO experience painting or wet sanding but I’d like to clean up a farm truck we have..
You don't necessarily have to, but if you want to remove imperfections and get a glass like finish you will want to. Here's a couple videos I made explaining the process.
ua-cam.com/video/6iMAoxo_BT4/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/PnJrd5eadD4/v-deo.html
I wish I could super like this! Amazing quality and amazing inspiration honestly!
I’m gonna email you some pics of the project Im about to do. I’m spraying the roof and hood on my 94 regular cab f150. It’s Calypso green and the clear is just shot on it from setting in sun all these years.
I had a local paint supply shop put the OEM color in 4 aerosol cans and I have spray Max 2k clear to use too.
Good job my score for you 300%
Don't run before you can walk !
Amazing results for a spray can 👍👍
👍It amazed me as well! Appreciate the comment and support!
Wow this is amazing estimation point! I love that you're using that type of paint as well! I have been trying to find a Dupli-Color for my car but they never have enough cans in stock, so I bought this brand, great to see how good it comes out! So my question is I'm doing an area in Black, would I want to use semi-gloss or gloss paint with the clear coat?
Urethane base coat it's designer to be clear coated and it has no gloss
Looks good! I'm wondering how many cans of Clearcoat you used and why you put on 3 coats and risked the runs.
Watched a few of your videos and I’m really impressed and I learned a ton. Really great content sir but I have a stupid question. How did you get O’Reilly to match that paint for you. I mean it looks spot on on camera.
Awesome! Great to hear the content is working. In some store Oreillys mixes paint. Not all store yet they use nason which is a cost effective but good paint.
@@GarageNoise I got that part how did they get exactly the color to match was the question. Did you drive the car there did you get a chip of the paint over to them?
@@alexpaic2984 no I just gave them the code.
Thanks for the tutorial.. well done. I do have a question though. Why not fix those little dings/dents on the fender you painted? The amount of money and time would not have added much work and the outcome would have been even better. Just curious, that's all. Thanks again for the video.
The whole car has hail damage. Just wanted a demo on the clear and process. Appreciate your comment!
Great video, I’m about to start some body work on a 2011 Ford Escape that’s seen many Canadian winters, so I appreciate the tips on shooting that clear coat
On a paint run take a pc of masking tape and turn it inside out were the sticky side is out and tap the paint run it will remove the paint run every time. I, do a lot of auto body and paint work myself
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Thank, you
Super Great Video! One dumb question on initial sanding to a dull finish. Do you try to sand the old clear coat down to the base coat or do you just clear coat over a sanded clear coat? I may try so paint some damaged areas on my 20 year old Motorhome.
You do not want to sand down to base coat. When sanding you just scuffing old clear for adhesion of the new clear.👍
@@GarageNoise Thanks, that was the answer I wanted.
Excellent video brother and amazing skill, I wish my o'Reilly's would make paint here in CA.
Thanks brother!
Thank you, this made my Saturday evening great.
Glad to hear it!
Would be a great help if you can actually show the process you’d follow to sand out any clear-coat runs ..love your channel..new subscriber 👌
ua-cam.com/video/ehd_UmlLsTU/v-deo.html
This looks like a good instruction video. Im looking for a video to repair a small chipped paint spot on the bumper of a Honda. The black shows through and I just want to hide it better.
Going to check out Upol can paint at O'Reillys. I bought spray gun paint but just need to do same area on Optima but its a 3 stage mica white pearl. Afraid it wont be a match.
So may have stuffed up on my clear coat application as I was trying not to get any paint runs. I had faster movements than you, but multiple coats. Is the surface supposed to feel smooth after the application of clearcoat?
Yes it should feel smooth. It can be wet sanded and buffed tho.
Great video thanks for taking the time
Where do you find the U-Pol custom can? Their website hasn’t been much help in explaining how the color matching works
I get it at my local paint supplier. I'm sure not all paint suppliers will carry it, but mine does.
You can also find it at O'reilly's. Some O'reilly's not all O'reilly's, but some O'reilly's that do paint. They could help you out with that, I believe.
Came out great. How long should i wait to remove the tape? Should i take it off as soon as im done spraying the clear or should i wait?
Wait about a half hour
What a great idea they come out with been years since I've done body work thanks for video really like the Gardner in the clear coat can
👍appreciate the comment and support!