Absolutely 😁 fun as balls 😉 watching you guys whip that thing back to life !! I've got a million questions, though I'll shut and keep watching.. Bravo..!!!!
Tip, use a paint brush from harbor freight to paint a good coat on. It looks more like factory. I have a 67 coupe with a real hi-po 289 sand shelby type ford dual plane with the correct 715 cfm holley. The only thing that isnt stock is hooker headers and dual flowmasters. $speed with scatter shield and best part rust free. I bought it in 1978.
Well done my UA-cam friend! Congratulations on a MAJOR milestone! I'm still working on my first video about my car but I'm getting there. Excellent job sir, can't wait to see more as you begin to shake it down and find all the gremlins.
You can maybe plug in an OBD2 scanner and see if you get a signal from the ECU? Otherwise you’ll probably want to check continuity from the plugs to the pins on the ECU connector.
Thanks I was missing that , I got to connect the OBD2 Also I’m having trouble connecting the wires to the ignition switch I have both new and old wires connected together do I got to take off the old wires ?
@@noboltsleftbehind nice Loving this build Did you reprogram ecu? My explorers redline at a whopping 4800 rpm.......which is fine for my 77 Bronco....but 6000rpms sounds better in the mustang
Oh nice, I was starting to get worried I’d have to buy an expensive 70s one. I’ll check out the fox body pedals. Do you mean an electric steering pump? I was looking into a Volvo type swap, I even bought a controller for one but I haven’t decided yet. Still trying to figure out the psi of the stock Explorer pump.
I hear what you’re saying, but I spent a good bit of time researching driveshaft stuff. The way I understand it ask long as your transmission and rear axle are on the same plane (whether it be up and down or left to right) and as long as your u-joint angles are not excessive you should be ok. In fact some u-joint angle is beneficial to keep the needles and caps moving and lubricated. The way I see it, my u-joints are at an approximately 2-3 degree working angle, just up and to the side instead of being perpendicular to the ground.
Absolutely 😁 fun as balls 😉 watching you guys whip that thing back to life !! I've got a million questions, though I'll shut and keep watching..
Bravo..!!!!
Well done!! No bolts were left behind in the making of this episode.
These projects you do are pretty sweet. I like the newer drivetrain in older cars a lot!
Tip, use a paint brush from harbor freight to paint a good coat on. It looks more like factory. I have a 67 coupe with a real hi-po 289 sand shelby type ford dual plane with the correct 715 cfm holley. The only thing that isnt stock is hooker headers and dual flowmasters. $speed with scatter shield and best part rust free. I bought it in 1978.
Well done my UA-cam friend! Congratulations on a MAJOR milestone! I'm still working on my first video about my car but I'm getting there. Excellent job sir, can't wait to see more as you begin to shake it down and find all the gremlins.
Thank you sir!
It’s about time…haha. Congrats. Always a great step
Psyched for you. I'm running fuel lines for my 67 right now.
Thanks man, and good luck on your '67!
Great milestone. Well done 🎉🎉 sounds sweet
69 Mustang used a cable, use the pedal.
Great job man! Thats going to be a lot more fun car now
Yes sir, can’t wait to roast some tires.
Awesome Job sounds great 👍
Will it run??? 😂 congrats!🎉
Missed opportunity with the thumbnail, although I did get the surprised face in there
@@noboltsleftbehind learning from @4WDtrek I see!
Sounds ok but I would put a 2 piece complete floor pan to make it look stock.
Love this build. How did you manage to acquire your diverse skills?
Thanks man! I just jump in head first on projects like this and figure stuff out as I go.
When your engine fires up, does the fuel pump automatically come on at the time of ignition?
Yes, it primes for about two seconds when the key is turned to the on position and turns on when the engine starts
Wow!! awesome, i am currently trying to fit a 2010 drive train in my 67 mustang, so much to do! i need helppp ":D @@noboltsleftbehind
This there a way to test if I connect everything correctly?
Also is there a way to tell if my computer /ecu have power/ volts
You can maybe plug in an OBD2 scanner and see if you get a signal from the ECU? Otherwise you’ll probably want to check continuity from the plugs to the pins on the ECU connector.
Thanks I was missing that , I got to connect the OBD2
Also I’m having trouble connecting the wires to the ignition switch
I have both new and old wires connected together do I got to take off the old wires ?
Did i miss why you went with the mustang intake plenum?
I have an Explorer donor and plan to do the same with a 66 mustang
That is the Explorer intake manifold actually, I just switched the top plate out for one that says Mustang
@@noboltsleftbehind nice
Loving this build
Did you reprogram ecu? My explorers redline at a whopping 4800 rpm.......which is fine for my 77 Bronco....but 6000rpms sounds better in the mustang
The Explorer one makes a little more power
@@ChatNoir443 I haven’t yet but I’m researching how to do it. Mine’s non-PATS but good call about the redline, didn’t even think of that.
For the gas pedal i used a 90 mustang pedal when i did my 5.0 swap. Have a consider going with electric steering?
Oh nice, I was starting to get worried I’d have to buy an expensive 70s one. I’ll check out the fox body pedals.
Do you mean an electric steering pump? I was looking into a Volvo type swap, I even bought a controller for one but I haven’t decided yet. Still trying to figure out the psi of the stock Explorer pump.
@@noboltsleftbehind I mean the electric steering from a saturn or a Toyota eps system, I did it and it all fits under the dash
@@walterabarca5786 oh interesting, never heard of that before. I’ll have to do some research
@@noboltsleftbehind it is worth it and can be done on the cheap, by the way you will need a spacer on the gas pedal if you go with a fox body one.
That axle really should be moved over in order to line up the drive line, you will have excessive ware on the u joints.
I hear what you’re saying, but I spent a good bit of time researching driveshaft stuff. The way I understand it ask long as your transmission and rear axle are on the same plane (whether it be up and down or left to right) and as long as your u-joint angles are not excessive you should be ok. In fact some u-joint angle is beneficial to keep the needles and caps moving and lubricated. The way I see it, my u-joints are at an approximately 2-3 degree working angle, just up and to the side instead of being perpendicular to the ground.
В первую очередь нужно было сделать днище, затем тщательно его прокрасись гудроном, а уже потом всё остальное.